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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 17, 2006 - 10:56am PT
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It's bound to happen. Might as well start now so John will have something to read while he rehabs. This thread can be about the past, so the "get well" thread can be about the present/fuuture
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=238878&f=0&b=0
You can start with the nice stories and pictures. As he recovers we can add the slander
and finish with some lies once he's back on his feet fully
I hadn't met Steve but a thread for him would certainly be in order
Peace and healing
Karl
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 17, 2006 - 11:00am PT
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JB,
Teflon,
Joshua Tree
Between bouts with fire breathin' Dragons,
Near the time of the Crusades
foto Deano "Bullwinkle" Fidelman
stonemeister phot-tigger-aphigeriger extroardinaire
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goatboy smellz
climber
up a peak without a paddle
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Aug 17, 2006 - 11:22am PT
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edit: Thanks John, even as a gimp... yah still inspire!
PULL THROUGH!!!
Phatoto ala Chris Falkenstein
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Aug 17, 2006 - 11:38am PT
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Some favorite photos of John. This excellent expression is just John being John - I love this!
Here John sat listening to a most absurd story being told by Aldude...
And, my all time favorite - one of the hottest photos ever put on the internet - grrrrrrrr
* This has been posted here previously. I apologize for not knowing who the photographer is. Step forward...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Aug 17, 2006 - 11:40am PT
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 17, 2006 - 11:43am PT
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Great idea Karl!
I’ll throw this out again since its handy. Some early foot work of John’s dressing up his EB’s. Fort Collins CO, circa 77
Still tinkering He just showed a new higher top shoe for next year called? You guessed it the JB
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Hootervillian
climber
the Hooterville World-Guardian
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Aug 17, 2006 - 11:53am PT
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i've only met Mr. Bachar once.
i recognized him and introduced myself one afternoon down the sidwalk from the booky joint. all i could come up with at the time was "i admire your lifestyle", immediately generating doubt in my mind as i was sure he was thinking "what a n00b".
not so. he asked me if i climbed and seemed appreciative of the recognition in a very genuine kind of way. i was thoroughly impressed. much as i am here and now with his wit and compassion, all wrapped up in pithy commentary.
i appreciate the opportunity for this insight. and not to set conditions, but i look forward to more.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Aug 17, 2006 - 12:20pm PT
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My first encounter with Bachar was in Joshua Tree in 1982. Julie Lazar and I were recent transplants from back east, and were just getting to know the area. We were getting ready to climb "Ride A Wild 'Bago" on Sport Challenge Rock, when up walks JB who with a quick but polite "may I?" steps on the rock in front of me. It was an odd moment, as I was about to be annoyed I was instead so impressed by his dancelike perfection of movement and flawless interpretation of the climb. I was reminded of a similar scene, when I was lucky to witness a beautifully executed hard lead in the Gunks some years before, which got me interested in climbing in the first place.
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todd-gordon
climber
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Aug 17, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
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Speedy recovery, John. You inspired me and my generation of climbers and we are indebted to you for that forever. Although we climb at different levels, we share the same passion for climbing, music, and being Dad. Hang tough, stay strong, and keep the fire going. Todd Gordon Joshua Tree, California
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Aug 17, 2006 - 02:58pm PT
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1988, the Meadows. Just finishiing the walk off after leading Memos from Lloyd (5.10d). Some cat is at the base by our packs cranking a ghetto blaster which he curteously turns way down as soon as he notices our approach.
The guy looks like a local to me so I ask him about the name of the climb. He has the whole story, finishing with ". . .but I think it is more like .11a." Which made my head swell just a little more. Then up he went, sans rope, climbing like he was magnetized to the stone, and Josh and I look at eachother: "I think that was JB."
Best wishes for a speedy recovery John.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Aug 17, 2006 - 07:57pm PT
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Never had the pleasure to meet him in person but I figured I'd run into him on the eastside at some point this season.
He's a fellow Blackalicious fan. Loved his funkness thread.
JB - next time they play the HOB, head on down and the tickets are on me.
Next time I'm in Mammoth Mountaineering I'm gonna buy some of your shoes. Not cause I need 'em, but cause I'll know that the money I spend buying them at MM is 100% going to you to help you recover.
Anything to help you get well and back on the rock where you belong!!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 17, 2006 - 08:35pm PT
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Was up "cleaning" south crack in Tuolumne with one of my Russian friends, because the evening before they climbed it and left about EIGHT(8)cams in the cracks!!!! Got up and was on the route like 7:00 in the morning knowing they would get removed by the first team up that day. We are on the the ledge after the face traverse, 3rd or 4th pitch and I'm having a hellova time getting one out. My Russian friend tells me a soloist is coming up and as I looked down I see Bachar cruising up. He stops, we say hi(I'm embarressed to be cleaning friends) he works on it, takes it out and continues on. We get down from the climb and Johnnies hanging out parked in front of us. About 7 other Russians are waiting at the car for us and when we pull up, John pulls out a HUGE duffle full of prototype shoes. Lays a pair on each of the Russians, they thought god had ascended down on them (they knew who he was)and takes off after tlaking to them about climbing in Russia. Completely, unselfish, gracious and a friendly gesture to give em all new shoes, from da MAN. That is only ONE story of Cool John. I will always remember it and the Russians STILL tell the story whenever they can.
Peace
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Aug 17, 2006 - 08:47pm PT
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The man, the myth, and clearly a legend...
Johnny boy, the solos in Tuolumne we climbed together are still some of the highpoints in my climbing memories!
Then, of course, the times in the Yucca Carl's Junior making "topos" on the napkins (and stuffing them back into the container) are some of the funniest times.
You inspired us all in an age of seeking out the ultimate intensity.
Heal well, bro, and keep us posted.
cheers
JM
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Aug 17, 2006 - 09:23pm PT
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BTW, that pic of JB that Mike G. posted is on the Left Eliminator. Not he has no rope--of course. Of all the times I went to Fort Collins with JB (and MG), he never once broke out the cord and a crash pad was nowhere to be seen.
Don't fall. And JB rarely did.
JL
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goatboy smellz
climber
up a peak without a paddle
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Aug 17, 2006 - 09:42pm PT
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so the get well thread will be about the present/future?
HELL YES!!!
We will always be there to belay or rope gun!
(edit: BURP! elocution is a bitch when mixed with olde E and brandy!)
peace John,
Eric
A lite read to help you stay on target to recovery...
http://www.zenko.org/yumi_talk.htm
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Baldwin Park, Calif.
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Aug 17, 2006 - 10:12pm PT
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John,
I remember a chance meeting in the Vons parking lot in Yucca Valley. You were blowing you sax with passion and several of us were there to dig it. We've crossed paths over the years and I, like many, followed your climbing exploits with interest and pride. Once, my partner and I ran into you bouldering up near Daff Dome and you took the time to hang with us and show us many problems, most of which we couldn't do. No matter, it was a grand time.
Thanks for being a gracious human being. You were our idol, yet you were one of us. I never forgot your kindness.
I am deeply saddened by the loss of your partner and friend, Steve. and I'm greatful your and Anastasia's injuries are not life threatening. Please know that we(those of us out here in cyber land ) are with you and sending our good thoughts your way. I wish you a speedy and complete recoverary.
Tony
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 17, 2006 - 10:13pm PT
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Climbed with John many a times.
One day he says let's do the Nabisco Wall. I say you lead Bachar.
He leads waverly wafer with no pro. Then he leads Butterballs with no pro and clips the anchor bolts on butterballs, keeps going with no pro to the top. The classic JB lead hahahaha.
He only brought the friggen rope for me.
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john hansen
climber
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Aug 17, 2006 - 11:05pm PT
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In the early eighties I was walking In yosemite just west of camp four when the sound of a saxaphone came drifting down thru the woods from up by the cliffs. Stopped and listened for awhile,, thought it was cool, someone playing like that.
have always thought it must of been him.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Aug 17, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
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Hey Werner
That's funny, I remember you doing the same for me on many a climb. All about learning from the masters...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Aug 18, 2006 - 12:12am PT
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Shiit man.. what can ya say..... Glad you are still around. Hope to see ya at the Dudes this winter. heal man, heal.....
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 18, 2006 - 12:25am PT
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Tell me where and when!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 18, 2006 - 12:29am PT
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was at the base of Lembert, with of all people...my Mother In Law!!! She wants to know "about this climbing thing I do". I tell her it's safe...and we're all pretty much "intellegent people" and it is safe, because we use ropes and protection and all that shitz!!!! So up walks John at about early in the morning and I intro him to Mom in Law and we talk a bit then John proceeds to walk further up the base, sans rope,pro or harness. Solos something sick, then down climbs, RIGHT back to us. My Mother In Law looks at me in DISCUST and walks away. THANKS JOHN!!!! Still with my wife and my mother in law STILL thinks we're all fruuckin crazy.
Peace
Thanks John!
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 18, 2006 - 12:36am PT
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hahaha, hilarious Ron
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 18, 2006 - 12:48am PT
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Never met Steve, although was suppose to be introduced by John. Unfortunatley this event happened and now I only have the wish. John told me Steve was the man to meet with respects to Sierra flyfishing and I WAS ANXIOUSLY waiting to be introduced as I am now as addicted to flyfishing as I was to climbing when I crossed paths with John. If ANY of Steve friends or family are out there, this is one person I regret not meeting. I was SO looking forward to having Steve take me out ot HIS favorite spots for the trout. I will tie some flies, I will fish with them and I WILL think of STEVE even though, I never knew him, his SPIRIT will be with me. Bachar are ya up for some flyfishin'. Last email said Steve and I can fish, you can climb, then WE can get something to eat. I'll teach ya throw a fly(if you already don't know how)
Peace Bro! Tyrus!
Ron
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Aug 18, 2006 - 12:03pm PT
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Bachar quote.
"Remember, every step is a rest."
Overheard words of encouragement to a follower. Josh, mid 80's.
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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Aug 18, 2006 - 04:03pm PT
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ron that's was nice about how you will think about Steve when you fish. almost brought tiers to my eyes.
i emailed JB saying send Reardon out to the east and i'll keep up with him all day. JB replied and said we'll set up call me. so i was like oh sh#t i'm in trouble now. anyway i called JB & he was the coolest mofo on the phone. ended up talking for about an hour. JB was telling me these cool stories about the days in yosemite and how he watched peter c. solo the rostum 3x in a row.
JB you the man get well soon so you can come out to the gunks and solo.
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Richard Harrison
climber
las vegas nv
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Aug 18, 2006 - 06:22pm PT
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Bachar,
We hope you have a speedy recovery and give you our thoughts. sincerely,
The Harrisons (richard, lisa, and tina)
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Aug 18, 2006 - 07:14pm PT
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Way too many stories, here's one....
Hanging out in Camp 4. I am an unknown(still am and for good reason) but Bachar, Graham and Kauk want to go bouldering and I get invited to join them. We find a suitable boulder and everybody scatters to do a route. I find a nice looking problem and after four or five attempts finally get it. I look up and see Bachar, Graham and Kauk staring down at me from the top. I quickly get it and yell up, "Don't tell me I've just sent the downclimb." A collective nod.
Bruce
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Aug 18, 2006 - 07:31pm PT
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Just talked to John. He's back in California and resting as comfortably as can be expected. He wanted me to thank all of you for your concern and good vibes as he will not be posting for awhile(understandable). John is strong-willed and he will make a full recovery. Sucks hard about Steve - a really cool dude R.I.P. Happily , Anastasia was not seriously injured,although did get banged up. Hang in there girl and I know John could not be in better hands!!
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Anastasia
Trad climber
Near a mountain, CA
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Aug 19, 2006 - 11:53am PT
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Aug 19, 2006 - 12:04pm PT
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John (as I've already reminded you),
you changed the world as most of us knew it in the mid 70's. I remember that fateful day. Our crew was bouldering at the beach, possibly a fall day in the 1975 (?). Everyone was there, Accomazzo, Muir, Cox, Evans, Vogal, Graham and maybe Largo.
When Mike showed up we all crowded around him as he opened a handwritten letter from Bachar and began reading it to us, the eagar teenagers. When Mike read the words, "free soloed the Nabisco Wall" all of our eyes and mouths were locked wide open. At that instant all of knew the game was different. We were no longer "competing with you John; you had become our teacher and mentor.
In one sense, the "wind" had been taken out of our sails; we were almost depressed. One the ohter side we were elated; we suddenly realized our true potential. Anything was now possible!
Thanks for that instant dude,
Spencer
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 19, 2006 - 06:30pm PT
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A very soooothing post Anastasia! Thanks a million!
Peace
Tell JB...Robert Randolph and the Family Band, good healing music...just don't bounce around too much!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 19, 2006 - 09:53pm PT
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Mari once asked JB,
"Gee Bachar, how 'about lendin' me those marvelous lats of yours for a little while, eh?"
JB: "Mmm, I dunno Mari, you gotta take real good care of 'em and they need lots of quality workin' out and stuff, every day".
I'd be surprised to know there is anyone better at it than you JB.
Take care of those lats bro, and all the rest.
-Roy
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 24, 2006 - 02:15am PT
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I wasn't sure if I should contribute to this thread, even in the interests of keeping John, and Steve and Anastasia, in our thoughts. I don't know John nearly as well as many on ST. Also, John is very much alive and, with a little luck, a lot of hard work, and some help from his friends, will fully recover. It is good to cherish our memories of John, and stories - but luckily we can still do so with him. Still, as a sometime student of history, there is always value in remembering.
The following is from Mountain 45, from September/October 1975. John is mentioned in the article "5.12 grade opened in Yosemite and Tuolumne". He and Ron Kauk did the first free ascent of Hot Line on Elephant Rock, "..one of the most elegant lines in the valley and the first to involve 5.12 grading."
I was then studying at UBC, and remember reading this amazing news. A year later I meet John, and got to know him.
Anders
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 24, 2006 - 03:04am PT
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Sorry for the quality of the preceding scan - I'm still figuring the thing out, and it's not a very good one anyway.
The following is as much an outsider's observations of Camp 4 life in the mid 1970s as it is stories of John. As I didn't indulge much if at all, my memories may even be reliable.
We went to the Valley for two weeks in summer 1974, right after finishing high school. It was unbelievably HOT, at least to soft Canadians. Team Canada spent six weeks in Camp 4 in autumn 1976, in site 13. (I still have the site's parking plate, liberated a few years later. It holds my parents' garage door together.) Daryl Hatten, my brother, John Arts, Eric Weinstein, Scott Flavelle, Dave Lane, John Bryan, and Perry Beckham. Some neighbours from the northwest, like Rick LeDuc and Dave Davis. We did some climbs and had a lot of fun. Very slowly, we got to know some of the regulars.
I met Ron Olevsky that autumn (never use the "f" word - fall), through Daryl, and recently renewed the acquaintance, through ST.
You pretty soon learned who was who in Camp 4 - the place wasn't that big, and those with reputations were whispered about. But it would have seemed faintly sacrilegious to do more than say hello or perhaps smile at the SAINTS - John, Ron, Werner, Dale, Jim, and the others. The residents, and goings on, at the rescue site were a deep mystery. As they say, you don't tug on superman's cape - although we had far more in common than anything that might have separated us. Climbers really are a pretty egalitarian bunch - if you do your best, challenge yourself, and exhibit some modesty and humour, no one but the magazines and a few racer-chasers much cares if you're doing 5.4 or 5.12. Though climbers do have naughty senses of humour, and tend not to suffer fools gladly.
The Camp 4 ranger then was John Caulkins, a very friendly and reasonable fellow, though not a climber. One day I was talking with John C, when John B came by with a shovel. John B had mooned someone at the grocery store, for some act of Curry Company lese majeste, gotten hauled up, and sentenced to community work. John C was in charge of supervising the work. He sent John B out to "clean up" around camp. John spent the day improving boulder problem landings around camp.
John B was also around camp a lot - I believe he had elbow tendonitis, something that mere mortals then hadn't heard of and didn't get. I couldn't understand that such a trivial thing prevented John from climbing. The two Johns often sat outside the ranger kiosk on a stump playing chess. Eventually, I was in camp for a day, and challenged John to a game. I'd played a lot, but not for years. He beat me fairly quickly, and probably wasn't impressed.
At the time we hung around the lounge, during the long nights. Pre-bar days. It was lit, dry, and heated. There were tourists to feel superior to, girls (a few) to chat up, convenience stores, and so on. The fireplace mantle, Dick Cilley tilting the Coke machine, and various other anti-social adolescent behaviours, provided amusement. Most sat around and talked climbing, ad nauseam. George Meyers' first Yosemite topo book came out in 1976, so of course everyone memorized and fantasized about it. When someone got up El Cap, we usually splurged and went to the Four Seasons.
Most of the Canadians had some non-Valley employment or schooling, so we usually had a little money. Daryl managed to drink through his pretty quickly, but unemployment insurance and his father provided ongoing sustenance. I have vivid memories of Daryl's escapades, such as trying to climb Swan Slab Right - using only empties for "chocks".
Anyway, one night in the lounge John and Werner were playing chess, and when they were done, I offered another game. John thought, the said ok. I may have won, or drawn, but at least put up a good defence. So from then on, most nights he and I and Werner, and a few others, played chess. We are the same age, and got acquainted.
I was in the Valley again in spring 1977, 1979, 1982 and so on, and played a little more chess.
I remember a few things about other Stonemasters, but they'll fit better elsewhere. Though Dale Bard was a friendly sort. It's been good to gradually re-establish contact with John. I met him at the airport in 1999 when he came to speak at a film festival in Vancouver. Having sometimes seen his picture, I knew what to look for. He picked out my eyes, although grey cells took a while to make the link.
I've never (yet) climbed with John, but have always admired what he stands for. He represents an ideal few of us will reach, but we can all aspire to. An uncompromising attitude, that how something is climbed is as important as what is climbed. Good that he's still with us.
Anders
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Aug 24, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
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Anders wrote: "He represents an ideal few of us will reach, but we can all aspire to. An uncompromising attitude, that how something is climbed is as important as what is climbed. Good that he's still with us."
Well put! I've been chasing that ideal set by Bachar for 20 years and it accounts for most of the pleasure I get from climbing. If Bachar wasn't around when I started climbing ... climbing would not be the same.
burp
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 24, 2006 - 06:32pm PT
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Anastasia
Trad climber
Near a mountain, CA
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Aug 25, 2006 - 02:38am PT
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I know you don't remember, but you refused to be helped or moved until Steve and I were first cared for at the crash site.
You are still being stuborn with a broken neck.
Love Always,
AF
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Aug 25, 2006 - 01:23pm PT
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condolences and best wishes on a speedy recovery...
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Aug 25, 2006 - 01:27pm PT
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Hey Ana, I hope you and John get better soon. I will be passing thru Mammoth on the 1st if you need anything from down here. You have my number.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Aug 25, 2006 - 03:54pm PT
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Me and my buddy were soakin' on the east side after a proud and happy trip over the Hoodwink roof (10a), and as weekenders, feelin' good....no one was around and then this guy pulls up, strolls over, and its, its JOHN BACHAR! Holy Sh#t, A legend is with us! My buddy is a jazz trumpeter and he and John commence to go over many interesting music topics and Bachar was real friendly and forthcoming and even offered us some thoughts about soloing and climbing in general. We were awed, amazed and impressed by the experience. Hope you get well soon John.
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Steve's sister
Sport climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Aug 25, 2006 - 08:54pm PT
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Hi to all,
Thank you so much for the kind words about my brother Steve.
I am so glad that John and Ana are on the road to recovery.
My love and prayers are with you both and I am here at the Acopa office if you need anything.
Thanks to the climbing community for all the support you are giving John as he will need it more now than ever.
love to all
Lisa Karafa
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 25, 2006 - 09:57pm PT
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Steve's sister! I am going to TRY to come up for the Croft show and was thinking of Steve....any suggestions on his fishing spots in the area? Tying some flies tonight, hope to use em that weekend! As much as I think about Bachar, I also now think of your brother!
Peace
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Aug 25, 2006 - 10:42pm PT
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I have a few Bachar photos and will scan them when I can.
Hey Werner? I remember many times when you ran it out and were kind of enough to bring a rope along solely for my benefit.
Ken
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Feb 25, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
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Seems like humpday is bumpday, so here's another one to bring to the front.
While I never could get my head around soloing BITD, John's exploits on rock w/ and w/o a rope were a huge motivator for me. Seeing that he's still cranking is a continuing motovator.
So here's a kudo's to the raddest shoes salesman in the world.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Feb 25, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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Hell Yeah! Great one to bump!
Thanks John for your inspiration and contributions!
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Feb 25, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
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Solid as Sears!
Thanks for inspiring words to a young kid, many years ago...and thanks for making the best shoes available!
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That's Papajoto to you son!!!!!
Social climber
Oatmeal Arizona
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Feb 25, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
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Been Emailing with JB about some Acopas. He had tons of great insight. What a great service to be able to correspond with a talented climber and shoe designer!!!!! Look forward to some Aztecs in the near future.
PJ
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