Discussion Topic |
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rolo
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2014 - 12:45am PT
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From the lowest of lows: Chad Kellogg's recent death on the Supercanaleta, to the highest of highs: the mother of all traverses...
Between the 12th and 16th of February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed "Fitz Traverse", climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia.
This ridge-line involves climbing Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juárez, Aguja Saint-Exúpery and Aguja de l'S.
In all they climbed across over five kilometers of ridge line, covering close to 4000 meters of vertical gain with difficulties to 7a (5.11d) C1 65 degrees. They simul-climbed much of the climb, dispatching 20-pitch sections such as Pilar Goretta in a mere three pitches.
They started at 9:45AM on the 12th climbing the “Brenner-Moschioni” route in two pitches to reach the summit of Aguja Guillaumet by 12:15PM. They continued south, along the Cresta Sur to reach Aguja Mermoz, climbing the “Argentina” route to reach the summit by 5PM. Four hours later they decided to stop to bivy, placing their tent in the ridge leading to Aguja Val Biois.
On the 13th they started at 8:30AM, climbing past Aguja Val Biois to reach the col at the base of Pilar Goretta at 11:30AM. In three pitches they climbed the “Casarotto” route with the “Kearney-Knight” variation to reach the summit of the pillar and start up the final headwall at 7:45PM. Finding terrible conditions in the upper headwall, with way too much rime and ice in the cracks, they were forced to slow down, reaching the summit of Cerro Fitz Roy at 2:30AM.
On the morning of the 14th, after a short night just below the summit they rappelled the Franco-Argentina reaching La Silla at 12:45PM and weaving their way through the various summits of Aguja Kakito to reach the base of the “Potter-Davis” route on Aguja Poincenot by 6PM. Short-fixing they made quick work of it, reaching the summit by 9:15PM.
On the morning of the 15th they rappelled “Judgment Day” to reach the Col SUSAT by 11:30AM. At noon they started up the “Piola-Anker” route on Aguja Rafael Juárez, climbing it in two pitches to reach the summit at 2:15PM. By 4:30PM they had traversed the ridge to Aguja Saint-Exúpery and by 6:20PM they were in the summit, having climbed it in a mere two pitches.
By this point their rope was reduced to 38 meters in length so they made an endless number of rappels down the “Austríaca” to reach the Col de los Austríacos, setting camp for the night in the boulderfield at the base of the final climb, the north ridge of Aguja de l'S.
In the morning of the 16th they climbed that final section, doing a single pitch to reach the summit by 8:50AM, descending east to reach the glacier just after 10AM.
On this epic adventure they took:
 two backpacks (35 and 25 liters)
one sleeping bag
a BD First Light tent
a stove and three gas canisters
one ice tool
two pairs of aluminum crampons
one ice-screw
2 each Camalots to #2
1 Camalot #3
two sets of Stoppers
a 60m 9.8mm lead line
an 80m 6mm tag line
three ascenders/locking pulleys (Petzl Micro-traxion, Kong Duck and Futura)
6 quick-draws
14 slings
It should be noted that their success was in spite of very bad conditions, with much ice and snow in the cracks and on the ridges courtesy of one of the wettest summer seasons in many years.
Caldwell and Honnold wore rockshoes to climb Pilar Goretta and the north face of Aguja Poincenot but climbed everything else wearing approach shoes (!!).
This was Honnold's first climb in Patagonia… Over the years Caldwell has done a number of impressive ascents in the area, most notably the first free and onsight ascent of Linea de Eleganza on Cerro Fitz Roy.
Respect, respect and more respect.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:51am PT
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Speechless.....Respect and wide eyed wonder!
TY
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:53am PT
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Unreal. Makes my brain hurt just thinking about it.
Kudos to the both of them.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:57am PT
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i would need a chopper to do that,
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ryankelly
Trad climber
el portal
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:01am PT
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strong work
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:03am PT
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Impressive! Those are some fit dudes.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:12am PT
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Jeez…I mean…gosh almighty….that's chimpressive!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:13am PT
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What the...
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bearbnz
Trad climber
East Side, California
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:14am PT
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Absolutely amazing.
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:26am PT
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impeccable... beautiful... proud... mindboggling... inspiring...
even superlative descriptions sound trite compared to what was actually accomplished...
congrats gents.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:35am PT
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Wow ! X 10. Nice job guys.
Plaid
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:48am PT
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I love the line from Rolo's report;
'This was Honnold's first climb in Patagonia.'
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:02am PT
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Uh uh? Aliens....not of this earth...
Susan
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weezy
climber
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:07am PT
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looks like a fun route :)
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:12am PT
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This is amazing!! Thank you for reporting Rolo! Soo sick
Edit: so THIS is what they mean by "The New Alpinism" !!!
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Jaysen
Trad climber
NY
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:22am PT
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seriously....
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Fletcher
Gym climber
A very quiet place
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:28am PT
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Holy shite on multiple levels! Hats off to those gents! Needs to scrape my jaw off the ground.
Eric
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:37am PT
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Wow! Simply Amazing! They must have some really killer approach shoes :-)
Not to criticize their achievement, but in looking at Rolo's photo it looks like there is a pinnacle/summit just right of Fitzroy that didn't appear to have been climbed. Is that just something misleading in the photo?
Again, before people start jumping on me for downplaying this incredible accomplishment I am just asking for a clarification given what's on Rolo's photo.
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bigbird
climber
WA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:42am PT
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I away thought the full traverse of the Torres del Paine mastiff in patagonia or the Arwa group in india was the "mother of all traverses"... Guess it a subjective opinion...
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:47am PT
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I thought Mathes Crest was the mother of all traverses. Relative indeed
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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:48am PT
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Soon they will have to look off-earth for a challenge.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 18, 2014 - 03:01am PT
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Cool
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rolo
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 03:12am PT
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Not to criticize their achievement, but in looking at Rolo's photo it looks like there is a pinnacle/summit just right of Fitzroy that didn't appear to have been climbed. Is that just something misleading in the photo?
Again, before people start jumping on me for downplaying this incredible accomplishment I am just asking for a clarification given what's on Rolo's photo.
if you take the time to look at the photo I posted you will see a note written right on the photo itself explaining that the summit that is "bypassed" by the route line is actually not on the same ridge line, it is much further west. It is called Aguja de la Silla which along with Aguja Desmochada is not part of the Fitz Roy ridge line/skyline, has never been, never will be. They are both in a separate rib, that dead ends.
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adnix
Big Wall climber
Finland
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Feb 18, 2014 - 04:36am PT
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The climbing has been quite interesting in the upper parts of Gorretta. They had two pairs of aluminium crampons, one ice screw, one ice axe and sneakers.
Just about the right equipment for some mixed climbing... =)
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Cosmin
Big Wall climber
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Feb 18, 2014 - 04:53am PT
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Stunning!
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Feb 18, 2014 - 08:22am PT
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Classic alpinism at it finest! Minimal equipment, maximal effort and results with one ice tool and one sleeping bag, all in a push. Congo Rats good sirs. We will be remembering this one.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Feb 18, 2014 - 09:55am PT
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Fantastic!!!!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Feb 18, 2014 - 10:12am PT
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Awesome!
Always wondered what would happen if these new amazing rock stars got into alpinism. Thought we might see stuff like this. People have been talking about what these kind of folks might do for years.
The future is finally here.
WOOHOO!
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Feb 18, 2014 - 10:14am PT
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complimenti, hoomaikai ana, lelo hoomaikai, wir gratulieren, chugha haeyo, omedetōgozaimasu, pozdravlyayu, etc. allez
I bet they'll be traveling. Thought they might be able to use some language skills.
Also, Donini is down there yeah? Maybe they could run a first aid/anchor building clinic.
WOW ...
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SuburbanMountaineer
Mountain climber
Alexandria, VA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 10:47am PT
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Rolo said it right: "Respect, respect and more respect."
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Feb 18, 2014 - 10:54am PT
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Solid team.
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10b4me
climber
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:23am PT
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Awesome. Thanks for posting this, Rolo.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:45am PT
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Good stuff. What an amazing skyline.
I bet Honnold will be back by himself for a helmet free ascent soon.
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:49am PT
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RESPECT!!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:59am PT
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I thought Alex was just a west coast soloer.......ha! Latok, watch out!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:12pm PT
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Yea, amazing. Doing Cassoroto itself in 20something pitches would be awesome some day! haha
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ecflau
Gym climber
CA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
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mucha wowowowow
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Slim Bouguerra
Mountain climber
Urbana
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:22pm PT
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one sleeping bag...i wonder who was big spoon ?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
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one sleeping bag...i wonder who was big spoon ?
real alpinists fork.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:35pm PT
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... and they make it look like a day at the gym... RSPCT...
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The Dak
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
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Very impressive. Like Rolo said, it is all the more impressive because conditions on this window certainly weren't perfect, especially compared to what we saw last year or the year before. We came up the North Pillar the day after Tommy and Alex, and this is what the headwall pitches on Fitz looked like for us. It could have only been wetter and icier for them. Respect.
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
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Definitely one of the most impressive climbing feats of all time.
Really proud of those guys right now.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
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Mind blown. Respect enshrined.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:45pm PT
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Holy crap!, what could be next? It seems like these guys are just getting warmed up.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:09pm PT
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Typical Super Topo...
People have no idea how incredible this is.
When I was in Paine in 89, and later leading a guided trek in Fitztroy in 93
Jesus Coz, we get it. You're badass too. We'll try to keep that in mind.
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
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I'm trying to think of what I did interesting between the 12-16 of this month.
I feel like Tommy and Alex are a great balance. With a bit more experience in the greater ranges what will they turn they eye toward?
"First climb in Patagonia". JUST BEYOND.
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
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WHO PAYS FOR THESE CLOWNS TO GALAVANT AROUND? I THINK THE MONEY WOULD BE BETTER SPENT FEEDING THE HOMELESS AND OR SENIORS TO BUY PROPAIN TO HEAT THEIR HOUSES. I HIGHLY DOUBT THESE GUYS HOLD DOWN JOBS AND SAVE TO AFFORD THESE ADVENTURES.
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Double D
climber
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
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Incredible feat! Congratulations guys!
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Yeti
Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:44pm PT
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Thanks Rolo for getting the word out about this amazing accomplishment. Lest ANYONE forget, what Alex and Tommy did here would not have happened without your pioneering efforts, starting when you were a teen-ager, in the Fitz Roy area. As is always the case, one generation lights the way for the next. And, impressively, your fire is still burning so very bright. As mentioned, thanks, Rolo.
Yeti and Jeannie
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
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I smell 'Piolet d'Or.'
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Feb 18, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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I've said it before and I'll say it again. Alex is either an alien or some kind of mutant.
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Feb 18, 2014 - 04:33pm PT
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What can one say........simply outstanding.....
Stevo
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
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!Respeto!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Feb 18, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
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I am speechless.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Feb 18, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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¡tan impresionante! The Power of Empanadas!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
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This isn't April first, is it?
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Dirtbag Wannabe
Mountain climber
Westminster, CO
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Feb 18, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
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Dawn Wall. Sendero Luminoso free solo. Now the Fitzroy traverse. Human powered flight must be up next. I'm buying Brendan Leonard a beer and planning a word tour of the greatest 5.7's ever known... Honnold doing this on his first trip is like learning Messner soloed Everest without supplemental oxygen.
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MisterE
climber
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Feb 18, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
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Thanks Rolo - the inspirational climbing is a perfect off-set to the tragedy.
Erik
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
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Whoever posted the picture above me wins. ^
Also great job guys!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:07pm PT
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Whew! These guys are hitting some serious stride . . . such an Irie team.
Thank you Rolo for your correspondence, not to mention your own contributions to alpinism.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
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damn. Pretty Super...human.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:29pm PT
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Wow.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Feb 19, 2014 - 12:29am PT
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ok, that's freaking proud. way to have a good time boys. ss
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Feb 19, 2014 - 01:35am PT
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!!!!!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 19, 2014 - 02:11am PT
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just amazing.
i like this bit:
By this point their rope was reduced to 38 meters in length
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Feb 19, 2014 - 02:26am PT
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Amazing! Was it Royal Robbins who wrote about Yosemite climbers going off to the rest of the world to apply what they learned in the Valley? Or are they applying in Yosemite stuff they learned in Patagonia?
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Feb 19, 2014 - 02:45am PT
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“The future of Yosemite climbing lies not in Yosemite, but in using the new techniques in the great granite ranges of the world.” — Yvon Chouinard, 1963 ...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 19, 2014 - 04:36am PT
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hey there say, rolo... very impressive rocks... :O
thanks for the map, it helps me understand better...
also, as to this:
It should be noted that their success was in spite of very bad conditions, with much ice and snow in the cracks and on the ridges courtesy of one of the wettest summer seasons in many years.
Caldwell and Honnold wore rockshoes to climb Pilar Goretta and the north face of Aguja Poincenot but climbed everything else wearing approach shoes (!!).
This was Honnold's first climb in Patagonia… Over the years Caldwell has done a number of impressive ascents in the area, most notably the first free and onsight ascent of Linea de Eleganza on Cerro Fitz Roy.e
thank you for the special note as to the climbers of special rock...
and how it was done-- "wettest season" and all, :O
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bigbird
climber
WA
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Feb 19, 2014 - 05:34am PT
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bhilden-
Point taken... Though technically one is nominated for a the award the year following the ascent, usually in february...
Impressive none the less... Hailing them as the next generation of "super-alpinist"? Maybe... I have my doubts... Mad free climbing ability does not make you an "super alpinist"... A strong pallet of diverse skills is needed to partake in that activity...
Then again I don't know them personally... They might have substantial mixed, ice and aid climbing skills I don't know about... In that case they might very well be the next generation of super alpinist...
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Degaine
climber
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Feb 19, 2014 - 07:01am PT
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What a fantastic alpine adventure! Thanks for sharing.
Climbing skills are the foundation, but these two clearly have the rope handling skills and wherewithal to move fast on alpine rock (even covered in rime ice).
Look forward to seeing photos (if there are any).
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 19, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
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So this is basically the extended version of the Care Bear Traverse?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 19, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
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But as we can see a smoking good valley free climber can
Boom!
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bigbird
climber
WA
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Feb 19, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
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Look at it this way BB, can a mediocre free climber fire off Trango tower, G4, Cerro Torre or any other hard ( technical) to tick summit,
Yes "technically" one can. Conrad Anker has been quoted as saying he can only climb 5.12 something while "in shape" and yet has climbed big lines all over the world...
I'm not hating on the accomplishment, its a beautiful line, done in good style, I hope they continue alpine climbing. But groundbreaking? I am skeptical... Free climbers have been going big in the alpine for years. Peter Croft and Mauro Bole being notable examples...
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crøtch
climber
Whale's Vagina
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Feb 19, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
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Looks like more good weather on the way for Sunday through Wednesday. Suerte to everyone down there and thanks for letting us live vicariously through your adventures.
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Ralph S.
climber
Boise, ID
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Feb 19, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
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Easy climbs in dangerous places is one thing, but hard climbs in dangerous places is another level! Excellent job!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 19, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
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Good gawd!!
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mission
Social climber
boulder,co
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Feb 20, 2014 - 12:21am PT
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Pretty amazing accomplishment- congratulations! It's been tried for years by some of the best in the business.
A couple of interesting things about the gear list. Not many parties carry a tent, most use a double bivy sack. And Rolo doesn't mention any food- maybe it's just too heavy.
Hats off to these guys- I'm still trying to bag these summits a la carte!
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Feb 20, 2014 - 10:39am PT
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Sorry if this has already been mentioned. I read little of the history, and I may have forgotten. Didn't the Hubers also make an attempt?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
No jingoism intended, go team Calirado, Colofornia?
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Stevee B
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Feb 20, 2014 - 11:02am PT
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Staggergingly impressive. Inspiring.
The bit about the 38m rope remaining was a tease, more about that please ;-)
Triple props for doing it in poor conditions. Can't wait to hear more about this.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 20, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
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Unbelievable. What's next????
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 20, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
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The next morning they were up at it again at 7:30AM, merely 3 hours later... If that is not hardcore what is?
Hardcore? I guess those guys didn't want to enjoy their time up there and take in the views. Meh.
just kidding!
3 hours of rest is not much, I'd want 5.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Feb 20, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
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Hazel: How much did you cuddle up to Tommy?
Alex: In some countries, we would probably have been stoned to death. But, thankfully, we were far above any kind of law enforcement. Next time we might do two light sleeping bags instead, just for comfort. Dialling in the bivy scene is definitely one of the cruxes.
:)
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Like someone else said the future is here. Having climbed around a bit down there I just can't even grasp moving that fast. It's a very beautiful thing they've done.
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Mar 10, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
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somebody should tell these kids that mountain climbing is WAY more dangerous than rockclimbing ,,
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Silviy Moroyna
Big Wall climber
Maribor, Slovenia
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Mar 12, 2014 - 03:06pm PT
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»PATAGONIA VERTICAL«
Rolando Garibotti in Dorte Pietron
Even if you are not a mountaineer, means to take in hand and skim this Patagonia guidebook peculiar pleasure! More than 360 great photos from the very end of South America, peaks, walls and awesome views, dominated by Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, provide exceptional visual appearance and functional excellence guide. The edition, which will, if not already, become a "mountaineering bible" of all admirers of mountain range Chalten. International attention to the conductor probably increased the prize at mountain film festival in Banff! Another outstanding work of our dear Sidarta publishers. :-)
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Mar 12, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
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Impressive none the less... Hailing them as the next generation of "super-alpinist"? Maybe... I have my doubts... Mad free climbing ability does not make you an "super alpinist"... A strong pallet of diverse skills is needed to partake in that activity...
I've always thought that free rock climbing skills translate strongly to every aspect of the climbing game, including slog mountaineering as well as aid climbing. I think of it as the basis of understanding movement in the mountains.
Look around at the young bucks setting today's alpine standards. In addition to what Tommy and Honnold have done, Hayden Kennedy has accomplished things in the alpine that his partners have sometimes said they could not have pulled off without his outstanding free climbing skills. Josh Wharton is a phenomenal free climber. The best European super-alpinists tend to be excellent free climbers. . think Ueli Steck. Steve House has been around for a while and what he and Vince Anderson have done has to a certain extent re-defined the super-alpine game. Both of those guys are excellent free rock climbers.
Just to belabor the point, Rolo is an amazing free climber, and he and House fired off the Infinite Spur far faster than anyone thus far.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 12, 2014 - 07:07pm PT
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By any definition this is an incredible, yes, unbelievable feat of Planning, Fitness, and Determination, with a whole lotta Luck into the bargain.
They did make a pact with Old Patch, ya know.
Really, when I first saw Dorworthy's presentation of the Funhog Expedition in the Visitor's Center in 1970 at that AAC meeting everyone seems to have forgotten but me, we were stunned by the place, the weather, the result, and we n00bs wondered what the hell we were getting into.
My heart soars like the hawk, Tommy and Alex. Let's eat. You must be hungry.
Woo-hoo! for Yosemite hardmen, pursuing either alpinism or rock climbing--just bring it on.
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John Ely
Trad climber
DC
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Nov 27, 2017 - 06:50pm PT
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In the meantime, their self-made movie is available for free if you can deal with the red bull page. Line Across the Sky Oneand Two I thought it was pretty eye popping....
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Nov 27, 2017 - 09:53pm PT
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Thanks for those links!
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