Discussion Topic |
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 17, 2006 - 03:01pm PT
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Continued slab epics. This topic was too
much fun. See below for prior topics.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=219262&f=70&b=0
Slab climbing requires specialized equipment and technique.
Kojak, Frank, The IBM, and some a-hole demonstrate proper
slab technique last weekend.
Kojak demonstrates proper weight distribution.
Most of it right around his waist.
Clark (belaying) tuning the cord for ease of climbing.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jul 17, 2006 - 03:20pm PT
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hahaha! Next time slab kings.... I'll whip a man-boob on some of yer classics!
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 17, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
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Nice to see Clark out and about.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2006 - 03:39pm PT
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Occasionally slabs require novel modes of descent.
Be-Bop Frank tops out on "Walk the line" a slab classic.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 17, 2006 - 03:41pm PT
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Heroes All!
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2006 - 04:12pm PT
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One of the all-time great slab climbing teams
tearing it up again last weekend.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2006 - 05:24pm PT
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A question was asked earlier about where slab climbing
becomes face climbing. I think right about here.
Steve Cox getting ready to party
Troy Mayr at his stink buggin' best (or worst)
Troy working another difficult line
What a slab should look like.
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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Jul 17, 2006 - 05:36pm PT
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Good to see the Idyllwild boys on ST !!
Kojak? Steel Reserve? What's up with that? He use to be strickly an OE man.
Keep up the stink-buggin. Go slab boys, go.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 17, 2006 - 05:38pm PT
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 17, 2006 - 07:45pm PT
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Geez, what a lazy lot. I am surprised that you guys actually touched rock! Probably was Clark's influence cause I know Bolton ain't ever that inspired.
Bob, how is Clark doing? He's looking better! It sure is good to see him out and about again.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2006 - 10:57pm PT
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Locker is going to be soooooo very jealous! "Posters who are not Climbers" is up to 244 posts, and so destined for ST annals. 666 may be in reach, if everyone pitches in.
But "Posters" doesn't have a Mark II, and "Difficulty of Slab Climbs" does. Even if Mark I of "Slabs" only got up to 140 posts or so. We are talking big time quality here. Ha ha ha ha.
I am not worthy.
Maybe I should start a new thread "Climbers who are Not Posters", to help Locker out?
Anders
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 17, 2006 - 11:45pm PT
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Slab, definitely so. Recently in the Sierra.
If you know the climber, you might know the location. Myself, I was blindfolded when I was driven there.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 17, 2006 - 11:59pm PT
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The Slabmaster himself: Big Dady Don on Soles of Steel. Those are 30 year old 1/4"ers, folks. Don't try this at home.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2006 - 12:00am PT
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Russ,
Looking foreward to the man-boobage. With all us sagging old
bastards up there last weekend it was like being at Hooters.
Sort of.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 19, 2006 - 12:15am PT
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Hey, those are great slab shots, very inspiring.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jul 19, 2006 - 12:21am PT
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Cool photos.... More please?!
Love slab climbing, just hate the fall. Losing all that skin doesn't appeal (no pun) to me.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 19, 2006 - 01:22am PT
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I'm not kidding about those bolts on Soles of Steel:
My Pride and Joy, my own little contribution to the world:
Tough Shiites, 5.7 (well, I helped, anyway.)
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 19, 2006 - 04:09am PT
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Yo k-man....NOW THAT"S A SLAB!!!
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 19, 2006 - 05:01am PT
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Gary,
nice pic of a scary bolt; the standard of their day.
A little piece of history:
That MHE hanger should not be mistaken for a Leeper hanger. MHE hangers were made of thick heat-treated chromoly steel. You don't see too many of those. Circa mid-80s. Many of the MHE hangers were used in conjunction with 5/16" "buttonhead" Rawl Drives which, in the 1980s, were considered to be bombproof.
In approx. 1989, I produced a batch of 1000 of these hangers in thicker stainless steel. Unfortunately, the dies were then lost, most likely getting mixed in with scrap metal for recycling.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 19, 2006 - 12:40pm PT
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Interesting, JM. We thought those were from the '70s when Andrew Solo and others first climbed in that area. Still scary, even if only 20 years old.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 19, 2006 - 08:20pm PT
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Hmmm... Slab vs face. What's the difference? How steep is a slab before it's a face? And is that a distinction worth quibbling over? Hmmm.
Here's a recent photo of The Artist Formerly Known As Gramicci leading the first pitch of a Portal sub-classic latter-ly known as Stop Me Before I Drill Again:
Certainly a slab.
But then I got to thinking... Back in the day, I really don't EVER remember making the distinction between slabs and faces. If a route didn't have any cracks, if you had to rely on bolts for pro, then that was a FACE route. Prima facia. Everything at Suicide (with the exception of The Pirate, Insomnia, Wet Dreams, etc,) was a face route. We were face climbing, no doubt about it. And Apron routes, while being slabby and lower-angle, were still face routes. Valhalla was always a face route, back then--no quibbles.
Slab vs. face. Maybe they're the same thing! (They are or They were. You be the judge.)
And when does a bump become a hump?
Hmmm?
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bsmith
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 19, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
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"And when does a bump become a hump?"
A bump can come from any part of your body. A hump clearly involves a thrust from the pelvis.
For example, if you're in a crowded subway...
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 19, 2006 - 08:34pm PT
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Now we have some "real" slab climbing photos! nice...
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jul 19, 2006 - 08:48pm PT
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I just took a nasty 25 footer off an old Ed Webster slab climb here in VT. He called it an 11 but I think it got pinscared down to solid 10. anyways it is still pretty thin at the crux and I got a nasty blister on my left hand from slideing off that hot rock.... maby figuer out how to post a shot tomorrow.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 19, 2006 - 09:38pm PT
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"And when does a bump become a hump?"
And when does a noun become a verb? (Hmmm?)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 19, 2006 - 09:58pm PT
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face, slab, whatever you wanna call it, it feels GOOD. damn, i'm JONESIN' FOR DIMES!!!1!!1
hmmmm..looks good, too.....
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 19, 2006 - 10:03pm PT
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There. Tape on the fingers! ...must be a FACE climb!
[duck, cover and hold]
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 19, 2006 - 10:07pm PT
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back the fuuck up, muir. i don't care if you're a childhood hero of mine. you lay one hand on her and...and...well, i guess i'd trade you for the beta on teflon...and have you autograph my t-shirt....what was the question, again???
p.s. we tape for all climbing. face, slabs, crack, steep stairwells, etc. never blown a tendon pully. not about to start now...!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jul 19, 2006 - 11:46pm PT
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It's amazing that Dick "Tape is Aid" Cilley still associates with you.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Jul 20, 2006 - 12:30am PT
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After playing with 6 shots and 2 tendon, hand operations, a little tape is a smart idea!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 20, 2006 - 01:34am PT
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Being that all the hardest slabs in California are unrepeated (Helter Skelter,Someone You're Not) I think it's safe to say that slab climbing is harder and more rad than other specialties. What makes it so is the inherent difficulty of linking multiple low probability moves....Do ya feel lucky? Well do ya punk???
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 20, 2006 - 01:46am PT
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I'm working on getting a scanner, so I can digitize some slides from slab climbing around Squamish in the 1970s. I have lots of slides. Any recommendations on a good but not expensive scanner, able to do slides as well as documents/prints? Your reward will be life-extension for this thread.
Anders
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 20, 2006 - 02:24am PT
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Whata bout Cos & Burke's "Shining"? Unrepeated, too?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 20, 2006 - 03:19pm PT
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Bruce - Cos not involved in "The Shining 12c" but it is certainly unrepeated. Johnny W. told me @ the Stonemasters Party that Hall of Mirrors is more accurately rated 13a not 12c. How about " The Believer 12a" unrepeated Bachar route on the Footstool? Probably conservatively 12c!!!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 20, 2006 - 05:08pm PT
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I stand corrected: No Coz involvement in the "Shining". Thought it was unrepeated. Looked up there once and was afraid. Remember that "Friday the Thirteenth" looked trivial in comparison. This afternoon? TRing in the gym, no slabs. Isn't there anyone out there today (apart from soloists) who like to live on fear?
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 20, 2006 - 06:57pm PT
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It's really great to see "The Artist Formerly Known As Gramicci" on the sharp end! Getting sort of way runout...very cool.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 20, 2006 - 07:06pm PT
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Cool photo - now I see how some high first bolts with no stance were drilled - standing on a snow bank!!
Guess you just hope that once the snow melts there isn't a ten foot blank overhang at the bottom...
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 20, 2006 - 08:22pm PT
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Ah. But stepping across the 'schrund... Now, there was some objective danger!
You'll notice my gortex parka at the top of the "glacier"... Quite handy it was to sit on and lace-up the shoes. Ask Mike about kick-stepping in Acopas... ("You'll climb better if your shoes are comfortable.")
And, as for run-out... What that foreshortened photo doesn't show is the eleven (11) bolts between the ground and the first stance. Eleven! Stop Me Before I Drill Again, indeed. We're guessing the FA party could have easily drilled the next bolt by standing in slings. MG clipped several bolts, and each time he could reach down and remove the quick-draws for use higher up! This route is decidedly "out of character" with the rest of the stuff in the Portal.
Still... Old School bolts, 18-20 years old. Over-safe, but still risky. A face route, none the less.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 20, 2006 - 08:55pm PT
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this thread is in dire need of a photo of a hottie on slab. you guys all look old, gray, and puckered up.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 20, 2006 - 09:22pm PT
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slab. sometimes you gotta want it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 22, 2006 - 01:07am PT
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watusi leading off on the first pitch of coonyard from the top of monday morning slab, july, 1976:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 22, 2006 - 01:34am PT
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Tusi,
Wall of Voodoo,
Gran Trono:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 22, 2006 - 01:36am PT
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Too Tall,
Stoner's Highway:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 22, 2006 - 01:39am PT
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Rust Walling,
Sundance:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 22, 2006 - 01:45am PT
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Jennifer,
Cry in time again:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 22, 2006 - 01:51am PT
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Dave Evans,
The Vision:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 22, 2006 - 01:56am PT
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Jennifer,
Unh-Huh,
Fairview:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 22, 2006 - 01:58am PT
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This might be a face climb,
Shelley & Roy,
Scorpion:
photo: Epperson
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 23, 2006 - 01:24am PT
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passing the torch: teaching the way of the slab to our young:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 24, 2006 - 11:01pm PT
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Darth Vader's Revenge:
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 24, 2006 - 11:12pm PT
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A little bump from a little guy. A couple of weeks ago at an undisclosed location.
Damn those shoes hurt and it's all Charles' fault.
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Ultrabiker
Ice climber
Eastside
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Jul 24, 2006 - 11:15pm PT
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"PURPLE DAZ" (three bolts on(110')P1, 2 bolts (90')P2...5.11ish)Stone Mountain, NC, where there is nothing but Slab and Runouts that make oh many shake their heads and walk away when they look up at and see, well they try to see, "where are the bolts?" on over 75% of the routes!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 25, 2006 - 12:06am PT
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Stone Mtn Reprezent!
Hey Shorty,
'Might be a little bump and you might be a little guy, but sheeesh, that's a big file.
Lisa says it looks like an ocean of rock.
You look well babe, keep it up, don't ever change; let's do lunch!
Anyhoo -it's been too long for me to ID it well; Dome Rock?
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john hansen
climber
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Jul 25, 2006 - 12:19am PT
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there is 3 pitch 5.8 slab route across the river from the single pitch climbs at consumnes river gorge in No Cal. A friend who had more balls then me led it with me belaying and another buddy coming up after on a second rope. Stuck in the middle again.
The pro was old bolts every 20 or 30 feet (early 80's). I made all the moves with a top rope easily enough thru the first Two pitches , but hanging at those two1/4 inch bolt belays with him 25 feet out was too much for me. I never trusted gear I didn't place myself. I would have rather hung on a couple nuts but there wern't any cracks anyway(we didn't have and could not afford friends). Sean, who led every pitch , finished the last one in great style but I whimped out and pendulumed off to the side and easy ground. That shows how far it was to that first bolt on the third pitch. The third member of our party was just a wee bit peeved at not being able to climb the route.
Give me a micro wedge or a tied off LA, just dont make me hang off a couple old 1/4 inchers with the leader thirty feet out and 300 feet up. Yikes.
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 25, 2006 - 12:20am PT
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Roy, 2 things.
I got the shoes today and they fit great. Can't wait to try them out in TM in a couple weeks. Thanks loads.
Check out the thread from a week ago about that other national park. It ain't in the park but is in that other spot we were going on about. It's 6 pitches to the top although the first pitch is kind short too. Nothing hard or proud, just lots of fun. It also helps when your partner is young, cute, and lots of fun (and of the opposite sex).
We will be in the Meadows for lots of August. You should make the mad dash over and spend a couple days playing. We only climb hard some of the days. Us old guys need lots of rest days, don't ya know.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 25, 2006 - 12:50am PT
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10 4 on all that good buddy!
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kubko
climber
Slovak Republic, Europe
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Jul 25, 2006 - 09:01am PT
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A slab or a face?
(High Tatra, Slovakia, Europe)
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JasonMLawson
Trad climber
Bremerton, Washington
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Jul 25, 2006 - 09:46am PT
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"Merci Me"
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 25, 2006 - 11:56am PT
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Matt Oliphant @ Riverside Quarry this is one of the only slabs there.
Medusa @ a secret crag in the S. Sierra ( Shorttimer might know where this is)
This is NOT a slab!! 1st pitch of Native Son
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 25, 2006 - 12:46pm PT
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Here's an oldy but a goody. Kris Solem on the first ascent of The Gold Standard on Voyager Dome at Courtwright - 5.12+.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jul 25, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
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What, are you sayin' I'm old?
Shortimer, the thing I remember most clearly about that route was who's crazy idea it was in the first place (as in yours.)
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mooch
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jul 25, 2006 - 01:45pm PT
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Not as crazy as you sporting those lycra spandex pants Kris! HA!!
BTW, this is one of my faves. Proud send!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jul 25, 2006 - 02:20pm PT
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Hey Levy, That's Medusa slabbin'? And up where I think he is?
I never thought I'd live to see the day...:-)
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jul 25, 2006 - 02:53pm PT
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Tarbuster -- Is that Chuck Norris getting ready to jump on Stoner's Highway? =)
BTW, looks a bit too featured/vertical to be a slab...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 25, 2006 - 06:15pm PT
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It's Too Tall aka Dave Nielsen on Stoner's.
The only eastern arts he's versed in are the ones using the skinny pipes.
And I'm not talkin' 'bout his arms!
Here's Ursula:
Photo: Sean Curtis affectionately known as "The Weenis" (the original, not the current Tacoer) RIP Sean.
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Ultrabiker
Ice climber
Eastside
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Jul 25, 2006 - 06:31pm PT
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First Pitch of the "Original Route", Whitesides, NC....oh,
120' and No Pro!...5.7ish(OLD SKOOOL) and then there is P-3,
5.9+, 160' with only one bolt...and then there is "Connections"
right next to the "OR", P4 is 140' of 5.11b with only two bolts...then there is....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 25, 2006 - 06:40pm PT
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Ultra B:
that black rock looks to be a bit grippy/coarse.
that would be a good thing.
is it so?
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 25, 2006 - 07:48pm PT
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Sounds like NC is a lot like Tuolomne.
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Ultrabiker
Ice climber
Eastside
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Jul 25, 2006 - 09:03pm PT
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Hmmm, not so grippy! The term "Swipe and Step" originated in NC!
Lots of grit and lichen as many of Slab areas are north facing and of course the humidity and rain etc. create a wonderful environment for such.
And all of NC is notorious for "Runouts
from Hell"! When I climbed there for three years, I quickly learnd to, of all things, skip the clip as in many cases it ruins your momentum and you figure, "What the Hell" you're
already 50-70' out anyway, may as well just keep on truck'n baby!
There is nothing in this country like NC Slab Climbing. I have seen many stout and hearty 5.11 climbers simply pack their
bags and not even try to get on, lets say "Brown" or "White" Way on Stone Mountain. And this start to the "OR" has made many a hearty climber simply say, "F*&k That!!!!" and leave.
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Joe Metz
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 25, 2006 - 09:05pm PT
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Power Dome, Shorty?
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 26, 2006 - 12:54am PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jul 26, 2006 - 02:50am PT
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nice pics of xmas tree pass Gary.
great thread all, i'm surprised i avoided it.
Tuolumne gold!!! in them thar hills
slab 4 sure
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 26, 2006 - 02:56am PT
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Well, having gotten this thread started, I thought I ought to contribute. I finally got a scanner, and am starting to figure out how to use it. Here are the first results, naturally of slab climbing.
I'm still figuring out things like image size and techno-trickery to make everything look harder. Any suggestions on what to specify?
This has Dave Lane in the foreground, on the second pitch of White Lightning on the Apron in Squamish. June 1976. The pitch was originally graded 5.9, now middle 5.10. In the background, Scott Flavelle and Perry Beckham on the second pitch of Bloodlust Direct - "easy" 5.11.
And here's Dave leading the third pitch of White Lightning. Hardish 5.10.
Note the extremely cool clothing, footwear, etc!
More to follow, as and when I have time.
Anders
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 26, 2006 - 11:59am PT
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Anders, I actually posted the other photo large on purpose to give a nice perspective on the amount of granite on Power Dome. It doesn't matter how you scan things, you can always change the size/resolution once you load the photo into Photobucket. Or you can load the scanned image into Photoshop (you do own Photoshop don't you? - if not, buy Photoshop Elements 4.0) and change the size of the image there.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jul 26, 2006 - 01:52pm PT
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Here's an old slabmaster in action:
Herb Laeger on Trapper Dome at Courtright last summer. Yep, that's Guyman running the belay.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Too late to resurrect this thread?
Nan Burger on Tough Animals 5.9, Dali Dome.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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nice resurrect Gary...
"Tears of Joy" 5.6R
Brad Young and Jennifer on 3rd recorded ascent
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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oh snap! you didn't just post a pic of that place!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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bolton you mother f*#k invite me next time. i tell great stories (i.e., lies) and pack high-end booze n' buds and will lead any pitch you bitches dare me too.
'nuff sad.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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i remember slab climbing! it's "whats for breakfast lunch and dinner back in the 80's!!!!!"""""
Here is Kauk on the second ascent of one of my freak shows- the slab below n. face of fairview dome...
this is "defenders of the faith" 5.12 1 nut, 3 bolts, 110'...he is just past the second bolt. 3rd bolt is in 15 more feet then 45 to the top!
go get ron!
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
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BVB,
YOU have an open invite. Let me know. We'll get you in next summer with the whole disgusting crew. Bring the scotch.
Kurt,
Tell us a bedtime story about "Burning down the house". PLEASE?
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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rbolton...
man i wish steve and i had pics of the "burning down the house"
We were too cold and too scared to pull out a camera even if we had one!
But that was a great way to finish the meadows season of 1984...
i picked out this sweet line on the n. face of fairview and steve and i did it in 2 days. it was kick ass! we wanted to go light with the bolts, last resort only...
we ended up drilling 7 lead bolts, 5 belay bolts in 9 pitches...
i still think it is unrepeated....
gotta love those slabs man!
ks
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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could get entertaining with that...
"will lead any pitch you bitches dare me too."
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ec
climber
ca
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Great stuff below the headwall, view of the first 4 pitches Moro Oro, Moro Rock, Sequoia NP, CA
...on the way up, photo: David Hickey
The Pinns, 'Coastanoan'
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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nice pics EC...
moro rock looks sweet!
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nvrws
climber
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Levy,
that looks like the first pitch of puckerpower at the quarry..did that back in the early 80's solo after it was just put up by mark and richard. Or is that valiant flail to no avail//
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
Between Tuscano and Liguria, Italia
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Two things..
1. Isnt that one namless shot of the S Face of Lone Pine Peak? That is truly a shitpile of a face.
2. Did I miss something- Where is Crest Jewel? I would post pics if I had some shots somewhere other than my family web site (no unlimited bandwidth).
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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PINNICLES!!!!!
(no, i know how to spell. It's the latest trend tho.)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Mar 17, 2011 - 03:33am PT
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bump
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 17, 2011 - 10:23am PT
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Bob, how is Clark doing? He's looking better! It sure is good to see him out and about again.
I just heard Clark is working again. And working the babes.
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| Messages 1 - 91 of total 91 in this topic |
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