Discussion Topic |
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 11, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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An old thread of mine got bumped and some folks wanted more pics....here you go. That get's us to the Col of Conquest....more to follow.
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Sep 11, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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This thread holds a lot of promise. I wait for more pictures. Thanks, Jim, for taking the time to post this.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Sep 11, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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Fantastic Photos!
Thanks!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 11, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
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spectacular. first-rate content right here.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Sep 11, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
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YES, this is what we need more of here.
Thank you Jim.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 11, 2013 - 09:57pm PT
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AWESOME!!!!!
Thanks, Jim!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
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Jim, that is the unblievably cool. Even though it will be buried 4 pages down in a week. You said it feels like Yosemite in may well it looks like Wyoming on steroids in july. This is the kind of stuff that keeps me around here and is going to keep me stoked through my fourties, into my fifties and hopefully well beyond. How old were tou guys when you did this and did you feel like you were in over your head? Thanks for the great photos. Mike
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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great photos
what are the ratings (these days) of some of those classic climbs. Can old men get up them?
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
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that's what BUMPS are for ;)
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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Stellar photos Jim
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Sep 11, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
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Great & Granitic photos Jim!
Holly-Schist!
You were a darn-Gneiss climber back in your hippie daze!
More photos and stories please!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sep 11, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
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Wow! This thread just started and it's spectacular.. call your friends and gather round..don't want to miss this campfire story. I just want to sit and listen...
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Sep 11, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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Excellent pictures, Jim, and an excellent climb, no doubt! Keep the fires alive! You certainly do that well! Thanks so much!
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 12, 2013 - 12:22am PT
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Awesome!
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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Sep 12, 2013 - 08:42am PT
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The Promised Land photo is hypnotic.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Sep 12, 2013 - 08:49am PT
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If I recall correctly, I saw your slide show in Berkeley BITD shortly after your ascent. Was that you?
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Sep 12, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
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Too rad!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Sep 12, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Looks like a fun outing! Great TR, thanks for posting!
(wow!)
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Sep 12, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
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MOAR please. So awesome.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Sep 12, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
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Great! More please Jim
Bruce, that first picture is by my friend Kike Arnal - if you google him you;ll find his website and can get a print I'm sure
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 12, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
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Good point Burchy, and great post Jim. Thank you for sharing!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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Yeah, that first picture isn't mine.....i hope your friend doesn't mind
Just back from doing a 14er with Jay Smith who is recuperating from back surgery. About 5,000 vertical and 14 miles in six hours....not too bad for senior citizens.....toot, toot.
The rest of TE tomorrow
A time machine....that would be nice, it was so nice in the 70's with the wildness and remoteness. Sigh....but you can't go back but you have, hopefully, your memories. I still may go back for some unfinished business on Fitzroy but you won't find me in an El Chalten disco.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Sep 12, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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Incredible photo's Jim!
I'll be seeing John Bragg tomorrow night at a pig roast. He's giving a slide show on climbing in the 70's, in New England.
Ought to bring back some "MEMORIES".
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
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Tell John i'll make a climbing date with him when i get back from China.
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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Sep 12, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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torre bump
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 12, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
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"Holy moly, I've never seen Lembert Dome in the winter. That thing looks sweet!"
;)
Fabulous pictures, I look forward to the rest.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 12, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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40 years later still at it.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 12, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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Damn! So I guess you've climbed some sh#t eh donini?
That photo of the van & posse is very cool, lots of life in those humans.
Looking forward to the next installment.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Sep 13, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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Bump for those incredible photos at the start------and all the witty comments along the way.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:26am PT
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For the John Bragg fans among us:
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Sep 13, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
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. . . Heavy Breathing . . .
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Sep 13, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
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all of my muscles just got smaller.
sweet 1 pin belay, not even a locker.
jim did you miss rock climbing 101?
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Sep 13, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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I remember being awed reading about this the year you did it. What a place, what a climb, and what an experience it must have been!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Sep 13, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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Well.............Wow!
That approach shot is the shizzle.
Thanks Jim--this is putting hair on my chest just looking at these shots
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MisterE
climber
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Sep 13, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
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Thanks for the series, Jim - amazing.
I like the direction you are going - keep it up?
Erik
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
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Those were the days my friend we thought they'd never end.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
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hey Jim, I am truly envious. No one will ever experience Patagonia as you and your compadres did. You had -- and I'm sure you know this -- a one-of-a-kind experience, not one that will ever ever be had again. Better climbers than you will come along, but no one will approach the Egger in the same context that faced you decades ago.
Photos are phenomenal. Viva la film! Viva Donini!!!!!!!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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Wow, more great shots! The one from inside the snow cave is really neat.
Whats with the spread eagle bath scene?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
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A time machine....that would be nice, it was so nice in the 70's with the wildness and remoteness. Sigh....but you can't go back but you have, hopefully, your memories. I still may go back for some unfinished business on Fitzroy but you won't find me in an El Chalten disco.
But the great thing is... There are other Patagonias out there for those willing to make the effort.
Thanks for posting this.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:16am PT
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This image was really tough to fix. It would help having a hi-res scan of it. It has deteriorated badly and was exposed badly to begin with, like so many snow & ice shots. But it is a very wonderful composition, isn't it? And the feeling is clearly there and the historic moment burning back at us all here, 38 years later.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:23am PT
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The Donini Time Machine slays it!!!
Thanks
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 14, 2013 - 01:19am PT
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Just awesome, Jim.
That sunrise on the col is unbelievable!
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Sep 14, 2013 - 03:54am PT
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BITD cool enough for the cover of Mtn Magazine and still one of the great historical alpine climbing photos ever. To a life well lived, Jim. allez, allez!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Sep 14, 2013 - 08:21am PT
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I recognize a lot of these photos. I DID see your slide show in Berkeley BITD after your ascent.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Sep 14, 2013 - 08:41am PT
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Awesome Jim! No other word for it.
Chappy
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Bad Climber
climber
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Sep 14, 2013 - 09:09am PT
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I vote for a permanent bump! This is what makes Super Topo super.
BAd
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 14, 2013 - 11:09am PT
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What a great way to start my morning. Thanks Jim! So many awesome shots in there. The snow cave pic is a cool composition in the second salvo.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Sep 14, 2013 - 11:19am PT
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These are great to see Jim. Keep them coming !
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
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Thanks Jim these are really great.
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Double D
climber
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
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Stunning... awesome!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Sep 14, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
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That snow cave shot of the Fitz Roy massif is super, super rad!
¡mas historias desde los Torres, por favor!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Sep 14, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
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Totally awesome, loved the morning on the col pic!!!!!
YEAH!!
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Sep 14, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
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That view from the snow cave could be the best pic I've ever seen.
edit: make that best climbing pic...
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MisterE
climber
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Sep 15, 2013 - 12:40am PT
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Those were the days my friend we thought they'd never end.
These words say so much about Jim's spirit.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 15, 2013 - 01:04am PT
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Extraordinary. Yes I remember listening to Mary Hopkins on the way to the Gunks. One day I see John Bragg leading Retribution (or was it Nosedive) and next I hear he has climbed something down near that famous Torre. And who is this Donini?
Some days those were.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Sep 16, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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bump for excellent content!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Sep 16, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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It doesn't get more real than this. Thanks for the photos
What are your top 5 climbs Jim?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Sep 16, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
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Some of the coolest climbing pictures and stories I've ever seen!
Aaaaaaaaaand, awesome
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 16, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
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Wowee! Cool stuff
I was at that slide show in Berkeley too, the old North Face on Telegraph maybe?
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Sep 16, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
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What a great and inspiring presentation, Jim!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 16, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
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Wow, who needs a time machine when we have photo archives like this!
Looked like a fun trip, so cool to see the old guard when they were young.
So many climbers climbed hard when they were young and then fell by the wayside due to life getting in the way. It's an inspiration to see the Donini's, Becky's and other's still getting it done in great style after soooo many years!
What's your secret to eternal youth, I mean eternal tendons?
Thanks for posting up!
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rolo
climber
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Sep 17, 2013 - 04:44am PT
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Here is a bad quality photocopy version of the article that Jim wrote for National Geographic at the time. May be someone out there has a full color copy that they can post? It is the december of 1976 National Geographic, volume 150, number 6, pages 812 to 823.
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rolo
climber
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Sep 17, 2013 - 05:04am PT
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Here is yet another bad quality photocopy version of an article Jim wrote about their Torre Egger climb, this time for Mountain Magazine (Mountain 51, pages 19-27). Unfortunately I don't have any of these articles in better quality. I thought people might enjoy reading them. Thanks to Jim for all the great, priceless photos.
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adnix
Big Wall climber
Finland
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Sep 17, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
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I've got the mountain 51 here at home if you need better scans. It's in B&W so the quality wont be much better, though.
Superb pics Jim!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Sep 17, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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Thank you Jim for sharing these memories!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 17, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
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Thank you for posting the article rolo!
Damn, I want to get out to Patagonia now! Why can't it have weather that is more stable?! Can't justify climbing once a month yet...
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rolo
climber
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Sep 17, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
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The weather is far more stable now that in the 80s and 90s, no question about that. Jim might be able to provide a comparison to the 70s. The long repeated spells of sunny weather that happen now did not use to happen. As proof marshes and lagoons have dried up at an unbelievable rate in the entire area. The last few years there is also a lot less rime. One of the biggest considerations now when choosing an objective is heat. Sounds strange, but it is true.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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Rolo knows better than anyone. We had six weeks of CONTINUOUS storms during the Torre Egger climb, you don't see that anymore. Rolo, i'm in Bozeman for Jack Tackle's 60th birthday. He and i are talking about trying a route on the NE spur of San Valentin ih late Jan./ Feb.
Looks like Patagonia had a decent winter for once, a brief reprieve for the Ice Caps.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 17, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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"Badass" is an expression that gets used and abused a lot. It should be saved for stuff like this. Such a mind blowing grand adventure.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
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Sep 17, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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Whatever happened to the Whillans box?
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
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Sep 17, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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Great stuff Jim!
can't wait to go give that thing a try.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Sep 17, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
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The Blob box was even better than a Whillans' box. Blob and his friend Ben had a collapsible metal box with 2 bunk beds for their 1978 attempt. They spent 28 days in it, 14 because of storms, and only had 1 book to read.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Sep 18, 2013 - 12:01am PT
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Love the caption "Contemplating the issue." The issue!
Love the opening line to the Nat Geo article: "Nobody had climbed Torre Egger before - and there were reasons."
Love the story that this pic tells, or hints at:
Love how terrifying this pic is. Quo vadis Domine? Errr, Donini?
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aguacaliente
climber
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Sep 18, 2013 - 03:28am PT
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great thread, great article thanks Donini and Rolo.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Sep 18, 2013 - 10:11am PT
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I vote for a few more pictures of our hero at that young age - any more pics Jim?
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nopantsben
climber
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one of the best threads ever! thanks jim.
hope to see you soon..
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Eli W
Sport climber
Portland, ME
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Dec 18, 2014 - 11:14am PT
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Hey Jim,
I just happened upon these photos-somebody sent me a link-and I would love to see more! I am Jay's kid, and it would be great to see more photos of your trip with him down to Patagonia. I don't know how or when you'll get this, in your email or on some forgotten forum thread, but I hope it finds you well.
Thanks,
Eli
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Dec 18, 2014 - 11:39am PT
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Thanks for posting these Jim.
Timeless and awesome. Makes your heart beat faster...
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 18, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
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Whew...great stuff!
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Dec 18, 2014 - 01:28pm PT
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Wait slacklining 38 years ago. . . The new Valley Uprising video said Chongo invented it.
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adrian korosec
climber
Tucson
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Dec 18, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
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The first two pics are classic! (well, they all are I guess)
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 18, 2014 - 03:04pm PT
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What an amazing area to spend time in. This trip is the trip of a lifetime, but to do it back then. Wow. Thanks for posting it up.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Dec 18, 2014 - 08:33pm PT
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Two big thumbs up!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 18, 2014 - 09:15pm PT
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fine thread
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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Dec 19, 2014 - 07:11am PT
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Good Morning Mr. GREAT DONINI , I wanted to (not because I had not seen) to congratulate the GREAT Jim Donini, for the wonderful article and beautiful photos, but all I really loved that ( THE APPROACH) with the Cerro Torre and Cerro EGGER !!Chapeau!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mr. DONINI, she's really a great !!!!!!!!
Many greetings and best wishes to you and your family.
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grey thunder
Trad climber
Hanover, NH
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Dec 19, 2014 - 01:48pm PT
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Incredible climb, incredible story, incredible images. Thank you Jim for the great Christmas gift. BF
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Dec 19, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
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Thanks Jim, for a wonderful thread.
You must have one or two more up your sleeve!
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Dec 19, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
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Eli, I just sent you an e-mail via supertopo. I knew your dad well and have some pictures of him from a trip to Patagonia that we did together in winter of 1976-7 the year after his trip Torre Egger.
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