Discussion Topic |
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 2, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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Apparently Tom passed away on Aug 26. I have not seen Tom for many years but we shared some memorable times together in the Valley and Meadows in the 60s. Superb climber and photographer and always fun to be with.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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This is news to me, Joe. Higgins and I had made a number of attempts to see him over recent years, having no clue what condition he might have been in. We thought he was living in the house in San Francisco on California St, not answering his phone or responding to his mail. Was he 66 or 67?
He and I were very good friends 1970-1971. He was living in the Valley, working for Ansel in the lab and helping also with the seminars the Studio would have, say with Uelsmann and Caponigro, for example. In his own right, he was a marvelous nature photographer, worked in 2-1/4 format. His background was nuclear engineering and so after some years, he was working at Mare Island where the nuke submarines were stationed. His longtime girlfriend Gail was a Best (as in Studio), I believe, and stuck with him for many years as his life worsened.
He is often recalled for his two scary-assed experiences: leading the FA of Pywiack Dome, "Dike Route" unable to descend, barely able to proceed, horrified and young. The other event was his accident on the Nose when his prussiks failed somehow, sending him sliding down the fixed line while he tried to stop his rapid and frightening descent with his bare hands. I am not sure he ever got over that experience and his hands were deeply scared from it. He came to a stop when he reached the end of the rope to find he had earlier tied into it and had been safe the whole time. Perhaps symbolic for him, as life went on later.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Tom worked as a guide for YMS for a time, and beside his talents was always a lot of fun. Sure sorry to see him go.
As of a year or two ago, Gail - a fine artist and person - was well and teaching ceramics at a college in CA.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Tom was my partner for the Steck - Salathe and Leaning Tower. He had the flared chimney below the Narrows and went right up it. I thought that this was easily the hardest pitch on the route.
He, Mike Cohen, and I did an ascent of the Apron, Coonard, Oasis, and the seldom climbed Hinterland.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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I spent a lot of time with Tom Gerughty in the Valley and Tuolumne. He'd come up to Yosemite in his Ford sedan loaded with camping and climbing gear and an inevitable case of albacore tuna packed in water which he guarded jealously, saying that it had to last him all summer. Yet he was generous of spirit, friendly, with an easy laugh and a great sense of humor.
He had an especially loose and well-built pair of shoulders which he'd show off in amusing, amazing ways rather like a contortionist.
He was the recipient of one of Frank Sacherer's famous statements when following one of Frank's difficult leads, "Get off the bolt, Gerughty!" when he was resting out of sight of Frank. Yet Frank knew from the momentary lack of struggle from below, that Tom had taken a rest using the aid of a protection bolt.
Tom and I did the second ascent of the Kor-Fredricks route on Sentinel, and we really enjoyed that climb as well as each other as climbing partners.
The last time I saw him, I think, was in Tuolumne in 1969 when Norman Clyde, Sheridan Anderson, and I were sharing a campsite in the old Sierra Club campground near Soda Springs. Both Tom and I took advantage of the opportunity to photograph the two of them.
I wonder what became of Tom's photos from that evening. Would Gail Ritchie, Tom's long-term girl friend, know?
I remember Gail from several of her visits to Yosemite; she was always a friendly and lovely addition to our small social circle in C4.
I think it was Eric Beck or Chuck Pratt that started the idea of calling us by our first initials, followed by our middle and last names. Thus, Tom became T. Charles Gerughty, and Pratt became C. Marshall Pratt. Tom was an advocate of that practice.
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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The photo at the top was sent to me by email by Gail Ritchie. Her notation was that it was taken on the face of Half Dome. I have offered to restore the photo for her. Does anyone know who the photographer was or what the date was?
He was born 10-10-1946 and was 66 when he passed away, far too young. The photo of him photographing Norman Clyde is priceless! Debby and I lived in the "6th Ave delicatessen & commune" in the late 60's, and it was owned by Nick Colapietro, Tom's uncle, who didn't mind renting to "hippies and climbers" Sheridan Anderson and his girl friend also lived there. Later, Gail Ritchie also lived there.
I am attaching two photos I have of Tom climbing, taken in 1967.[photoid=319245]
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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Oops! One of the photos did not post. I'll try again
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Riley....Tom slowly slipped away from us. Many were very fond of him in many ways too and for decades, so when his paranoid schizophrenia grew extreme enough and overtook him, he was trapped behind this wall beyond help. For awhile he wrote a few of us these crazy and dismaying letters from "there". These were in the Seventies. He would write how he was hounded by men gesturing to him "in a yellow manner" from street corners and elsewhere. And plenty more of this sort of thing and always quite elaborate. Heartbreaking.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Condolences to all his family and friends.
The Dike route is a great line and that story of his lead is a classic. The first ascent was a large adventure on small holds.
Rick
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B in Arizona
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The photo of him photographing Norman Clyde is priceless!
+1000%
sorry to hear of his problems, and ultimate passing.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Tom G. was with us on the first two El Cap rescues July and October 1970.
I remember him stating to us in worried tones, "Friction goes up hyperbolically to the radius of the rounded edge" in the general chaos of the SAR situation, many talking, few hearing him, nearly everyone at task with something or other in the mobilizing situation on the very edge of the great stone.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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I recollect somehow that the prussik accident was on the Nose, with Covington, and Tom was using Jumars. Attempting to use them for a lateral traverse? His hands were a mess.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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It is surprising and sad how many talented and likeable people lose touch with reality. Sounds like he might have been bi-polar. RIP
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Johnny Bachar just scored a partner and spotter.
Rest in peace, Tom. God bless you!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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From another thread:
Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
In Tom Gerughty's accident, he was jumaring up the rope with them right side up. He arrived at a carabiner where the rope beyond it was horizontal. He unclipped the top jumar from below the biner and reclipped it above. He did not however push the bottom of it into alignment with the rope and the cam did not fully engage. He then unclipped the lower jumar and the uppper one popped off. He fell to the end of the rope to which he was tied.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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Bless Mr.Gerughty
That was my mothers maiden name,spelled the same.
Do any know where he was from?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Wilbeer, I think just SF
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Anyone know the circumstances of his death or if any memorial is planned? I remember Tom for his quiet but keen passion for the mountains and nature. He and I did the first ascent of The Vision, Phobos and Demios. He paused on descent of The Vision to point out the shining glacier polish and view west, his eye always going to beauty. We both were shamed into good off width by masters of the day, Bridwell in my case, Sacherer in his case. So we shared tales of woe.
In time, it became clear Tom was suffering from mental illness as I and wife Nancy had him for dinner in the early 80s. He did send a Christmas card every year but did not respond to notes or calls in the last many years. I only hope he was in touch with his family throughout.
Thanks to all for posting pictures bringing his youthful days back to us. He was a good soul I will remember especially in my Tuolumne rambles where other good ghosts also now roam.
Tom Higgins
Longago
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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great photos, boo dawg.
and i love those two restored shots.
condolences to the friends and family-- i didn't know him, just the stories.
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bozo
Social climber
Reno, NV
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T. Charles
The truth be known, T. Charles has not been with us for some time. But when he was with us, it was a wonderful time. Even in the best of days, he was a little vague and you sometimes wondered where his mind had been.
He used to bring a case of canned tuna to Camp 4, that he ate out of the can—after removing the oil—with garlic red wine vinegar. I ate it too, and still do, when nobody is looking. I remember that he and Valerie ate Pream straight out of the bottle. They sat at a picnic table with a spoon between them.
We used to drive around Joshua Tree in his ford falcon station wagon, one or another of us on the roof. Sometimes in daylight, and other times at night. We used to bloody our hands in jam cracks. In those days, nobody taped.
Every fall, T. Charles would purchase a couple of pairs of Levis and some white t-shirts, and he would go back to school in San Jose. Nucular Engineering, he called it. It took him months every year to recover from school, but he was always in great shape by September.
T. Charles had the thickest hair of anyone I ever met, and running your hand through it was like stroking a Yosemite Bear.
On occasion, Valerie would force him to write an actual letter. His most recent love was Point Reyes. We were going to join him there some day, but we didn’t.
We loved him and we miss him.
M. Peter.
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Yeti
Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
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I spent a lot of time with Tom in Tuolumne and found him a fine mix of high intelligence, spaciness, good intention and friendliness. I liked him a great deal. My condolences to his family and friends. RIP
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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It is wonderful to see the posts about my eldest brother Tommy. He had been very sick with congestive heart failure the last 5 years - probably longer.
When our father was alive, we did not know how ill Tommy was. My brother David and I took care of him after our father passed. He became slightly more social. He was always kind, thoughtful,generous,stubbornly independent and interested in talking about travel and academics. When he recovered, he wanted to do a family river trip in the Grand Canyon. He often mentioned Gail and his climbing friends. We will do a memorial of some kind next month or so TBA. He will be cremated on the 5th and his name will be on a memorial wall at Cypress Lawn. I have been on the phone with Gail and she said she would help make contact with those who might wish to attend the memorial. I would really like more info on his climbing days, his accomplishments etc. I am sure those climbing days were the best part of his life. My email is dejong4js@aol.com
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Amazing photos, Ken -- Thanks.
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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Tom will always stand tall as an icon of mountaineering for me. From the YMS tent at the TM Lodge in the late 1960's, Tom lead me and my buddy up on an overnight accent of Mt. Lyell that has forever changed my perspective of climbing, mountaineering, and wilderness travel. For about $30, Tom was assigned to lead two young teenagers up Mt. Lyell. Tom took the job seriously, but soon transformed our outing from an expedition into a super-adventure free of any regiment or rules (besides safety). Before I knew it, Tom Gerughty showed me alternatives to mainstream backpacking food, campsite location, and climbing etiquette and attitude. Tom's teachings on that simple trip affirmed and built on my earlier teachings from my dad, my uncle, Axe Nelson, Fossil Climber, and others about the lure and mystique that makes our love for our sport a passion and way of life. Thank you Tom Gerughty for the gifts you gave me on those few simple days together.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Thinking of how smart Garooty was and how his Gail Friend loved to listen to what everybody knew was nowhere.
God rest ye Gherry mental man.
[Click to View YouTube Video]Gail played this tape in the Mtn. Shop constant, non-stop in the summer of '71.
"What's it like up there, T? Everybody wants to know."
East Ledges Area
Slab happy Pinnacle—The Dihardral
III, 5.10. Tom Frost and Royal Robbins, May 1961. This severe route, which lies in the corner forming the right side of the slab, was climbed without direct aid in August 1964 by Frannk Sacherer and Tom Gerughty....Hardware: 15 pitons, up to 2 1/2”.
--1971 Green Guide, $6.95.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Didn't really know Tom, met him once or twice in Camp 4. So very sorry to hear about his troubles and early death. Life can be so tough, I hope that he found some solace in his later years.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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I remember sitting in the Lodge cafeteria listening to his re-counting of the jumar/Nose mishap. He most likely caused a lot of us to use a backup when jumaring.
A friendly, happy, positive force on the climbing scene.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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So awesome how all the right people come out of the woodwork for certain threads.
His eyes are really telling stories in that first picture.
It sounds like he made some really positive impact, even with serious challenges in his life.
Off belay, belay off.
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Anne-Marie Rizzi
climber
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I have fond memories of Tom.
Condolences to his loved ones.
Anne-Marie Rizzi
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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He was a good friend, and took me climbing a couple of times when I worked at TML 1968-72. He told me about the fall on El Cap where he shredded his hands, and also the early adventures, when, as a frightened, (somewhat pudgy at first, he told me!)neophye climber, Sacherer would yell at him, "Come on you Chicken S, get your ass moving" or words to that effect. He had his demons, I guess, but the good side of him, what a wonderful, sweet guy.
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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tom was an instructor for Ysm in summer 71?
my father had me takin climbing lessons there after a sierra trip with the scouts culminated in the meadows. Gerughty was our instructor at the puppy dome. After that summer they trusted me not to be killin myself.
always wondered what happened to him.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Didn't know him, but echoing what survival wrote, there are some nice posts and pics on this thread from people who knew Tom and cared about him.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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I wish that I had known him. I have a special place in my heart for those who suffer from mental illness. The stigma attached is awful, and often they suffer alone.
Man. Zipping down a rope sounds pretty hairy.
RIP.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I wish that I had known him. I have a special place in my heart for those who suffer from mental illness. The stigma attached is awful, and often they suffer alone.
BASE104, you express my feelings, too. As someone who has suffered and recovered from severe depression, but not alone, I wonder how many other climbers suffer from mental illness, and how many don't have the support I did.
In any case, this is very sad news to me. Like Warbler, I barely got a chance to meet him, but he was someone easy to like. It's meaningless to say we've lost too many, but I'll say it anyway. My deepest condolences to his family and friends.
John
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Chris Jones
Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
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Tom was the most likable guy. In the spring of 1967 I quit my job and moved to camp 4. An expatriate English bloke with an uncertain future, I was welcomed by Tom and his circle of friends. The weather was pretty bad, so much time was spent hunkered down in camp - as Ken's wonderful photos attest. Tom had the most engaging laugh, was interesting to talk to, and on top of that was a damn good climber. We were lucky to know him.
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Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
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Arriving home after work near Seattle one day, I pulled the mail out of the mailbox, and there was a 9x12 brown envelope over an inch thick from Tom Gerughty. I was alive with wonder as I carried the package into the house. I hadn't seen Tom for years. Pulling the contents out of the package I found mostly photo copies of various newspaper articles as well as messages from Tom. He wrote that he had been working at the Mare Island Naval Shipyard, and if I remember correctly one of his responsibilities was inspection. It seems he found many things that had been done wrong and covered up. He raised the alarm but didn't get the response he expected, and not long after he found his mind becoming overwhelmingly strange and thought he had been slipped some drugs, maybe LSD. (Tom had never gotten into the popular drugs of the day.) From there he went on to describe what followed which could be interpreted as frightening events or serious paranoia.
I found out that a number of my California climbing friends had received similar packages and most thought that these bizarre stories he told were the result of Tom losing his mind on his own, but there were others who agreed with Tom that foul play brought about the changes in his consciousness.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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This is sad news.
Tom was a great guy and always fun to visit with in the early 70s when he came up to Yosemite. As others have recalled, Tom also send me long missives when he was lost in his paranoid schizophrenia.
I tried to connect with Tom a few times later but never had any luck. I regretted that I did not go find him when he first reached out to me with his weird writing.
My condolences to his family and friends.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
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My recollection was there appeared to be a lot of validity in his accusations of deceit and corruption with the military industrial complex at Mare Island and as we all know you don't mess with the man when you are playing with his pocket book.
Was Tom on to something? Probably yes and no doubt the complexity and anxiety of investigating such intricate scams only contributed to his paranoia and problems. Would be nice to think of Tom as one of the original Whistleblowers but we will never know.
I remember his fascination with filming waterfalls in black and white and some of the stunning results of his work. We were all lucky to have spent time with him in our early years.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Wow, Dick, I never heard that story. When I first heard that Tom's sanity might be ebbing I thought that of all the people in my climbing circle, his would be the least likely. Your conjecture that this was deliberately induced to discredit him is totally with in the realm of possibility.
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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I have always suspected something was done to him to cover something up. Interesting that at least one other has thought of the same possiblity.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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My sincerest condolences to friends and family of Tom Gerughty. While I can appreciate there are deliberate events that are within the "realm of possibilities" let's not forget how close mental illness is to touching us all. Statistically psychotic illness affects 3% of the population regardless of race, gender, social economic factors etc., it's one of those bad cards in this game we call life.
Having a loved one with such a disabling and chronic illness as schizophrenia is incredibly challenging. I can say from my own experience having a son with the illness their most valued memories come from the times they shared with family and friends pre-onset of the illness. Please find peace in knowing each of you no doubt added to the wealth Tom accumulated in his life. Those days in the Valley and TM climbing with his buddies and taking photos I'm certain provided him with a high degree of satisfaction despite the bad card he got dealt later, again if that is the case which is also within the realm of possibilities.
Charlie D.
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Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
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Thanks for that post Charlie.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I have a daughter who suffers terribly from schizophrenia. What angers and upsets me most is the way psychotic disease is perceived in this country.
Very few resources are available and the stigma attached to psychosis causes denial among those afflicted further hindering their treatment.
The mind is just another organ but diseases of other organs are not stigmitized. I am aware that a lot of this is due to the behavior exhibited by those suffering from psychosis, but why are they treated as if the disease is their fault?
For me, a big measure of the quality of a society is the way they treat their mentally ill. In this, the USA fails miserably.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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I remember a number of interesting conversations with Tom. He seemed
like a great soul, though I never got to know him very well. I
learned of him more through Higgins... He did phone me once and,
as I recall, wrote some letter I didn't understand.... It's a
sad loss. Sometimes it surprises us who are members of the
family and how or when we must and do realize it....
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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I would love to see a bunch of photos that Tom took, perhaps posted here as well as a link to any website where they might be viewed. I'm sure for those of us who knew Tom, it would help revive our fond memories of him to see his photographic work.
If there is a memorial for Tom, it'd be great to have some of his work displayed there, if available. Whoever might be putting such a memorial together, I'm open to sending high resolution copies of my pix for such an event.
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Tom & I climbed a lot together. With Beck's naming us all by first initial and middle name, he was T Charles and I was J Charles. He was really into cracks and chimneys. He was proud of the fact that his Kronhofers were worn evenly across the width of the sole, and he teased others because ours showed more wear on the insides from edging. In the summer of 1966, we estimated he had done a full mile of squeeze chimneys.
Like Erb, I got one of the letters about the yellow men in 1974 after I had moved to Santa Barbara, and I have felt badly over the years about not making more effort to keep in touch with him.
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John Morton
climber
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The heart skips a beat upon reading this news, and I am touched by the testimonials from these old pals. My memories of Tom run only up into 1967, but I received one of the packets in the mid-1970's. I don't remember the specific contents, only the impression that it all seemed outlandish, unfocused and certainly fearful.
When I remember this now I am sad to think of how little empathy I felt at the time. I had had zero exposure to mental illness, but experience since then has taught me a lot. The notion of foul play never occurred to me, but from what I know of the world now I will agree that such a thing is plausible, and the thought of it makes me angry.
The photos are beautiful, powerful and incredibly evocative of Tom. He was a vital presence in those days, truly a great guy. Thanks to all for your contributions.
John
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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One of my friends from high school was schizophrenic (fortunately not so paranoid). He was friendly and lucid. And he explained it clearly, that he "heard voices". The medication was fairly effective for that, but he wasn't functional enough to be able to work, live by himself, etc.
Depression (major depressive disorder) is possibly harder for people to understand. A simple description is that people wake up sad every day, for no reason.
The problem with understanding it is that sometimes we ourselves wake up sad, but for some reason. And we are able to "cheer ourselves up". But people with MDD can't do this so easily. Sometimes drugs and therapy help.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Major_depressive_disorder
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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I first met Tom in the summer of 1965 when his picnic table was just below mine in Camp 4. We always thought of ourselves as the more conservative members of the camp compared to some of the other characters around, and had many interesting conversations. We celebrated the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn with Sheridan Anderson and other assorted Camp 4 residents until our hip hip hoorays for Edward Whymper brought out the rangers and sent us all down to the beach. Among other topics we also spent a lot of time trying to figure out who the mysterious Chuck Ostin who came and went that summer, really was. And Tom always enjoyed my tuna casseroles, about the only protein the two of us ate that summer.
I saw him again every summer after that through 1969, including shortly after the terrible accident on El Cap. I remember him unwrapping the bandages around his hands and explaining that he was facing surgery to remove the scar tissue which had created webbing between his fingers. He was also at a memorable party in 1968 in the boulders above Camp 4, when Pratt went bonkers and attacked me screaming something about the full moon and werewolves. I really appreciated Tom's muscle power that night as he dragged Chuck off and put him to bed, not an easy feat by any means! Like Eric, I would have voted Tom the least likely climber I knew to have mental problems. He always came across to me as one of the more sensible and stable ones.
The last time I saw Tom was in 1972 just before I went to Nepal and he seemed his same thoughtful, ironic self. I was surprised and saddened when I inquired about him while trying to organize the Sacherer memorial. As a friend to both Frank and I, I had hoped he could attend. Now I'm glad to hear that he went on to do well at least for a time, at photography and school, and had a girlfriend. Like many in Camp 4 he used to worry that would never happen. Truly, may Tom as both a good friend and person, rest in peace.
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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I have a date and a place for the memorial. Sat. Nov 16.
Time to be announced.
see
http://norcalhostels.org/marin
I would love to display photos- both his and of him. Not sure how to make this happen. I would also like to share some of the comments and stories about the climbing days. His nephews had no idea he was a climber.
Any help is much appreciated. This group has done much to help my other brother, my husband and I to process Tommy's passing. We appreciate everyone's comments immensely. Jane
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Jim, do you know about NAMI? Great support group. The group has helped my family a lot. This story is so familiar. I wish the best and send my support to his family and friends. God send.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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I would love to display photos- both his and of him.
Not sure how to make this happen. Are you in possession of his photos?
Are they prints, black&white negatives, or color slides?
Any of these can be scanned or printed.
If you don't have the time/interest, some of us can help.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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I just recalled a b/w photo that Tom showed to me sometime in the early 70s. It was a simple composition of a path through a thick forest with the sun light streaming through the trees, but probably very difficult to get right. Technically it was perfect--for those of us who saw b/w pictures through Ansel Adam's definitions. Tom was very proud of it. If that turns up, it should be included in Tom's photos.
I teased him and said it looked like an ad shot for "Diamonds are Forever." With two young lovers holding hands and walking along, it would have made a great ad photo.
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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I think the negatives are on large glass plates. Have not a clue where to take them to get them printed. There is a small box of black and white prints 11" by 16" i would guess) and a few up on his walls in frames. I am thinking of a shutterfly book but hesitate since i want good quality. If several of us can do this, it would be fantastic. I have a crazy hectic job and a teenager still at home.(
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nice. I can scan 8" x 10", and I think Ed has access to a larger scanner.
The negatives on glass plates can be scanned, too. I'll see if Ed has time.
I live in Palo Alto and work in Burlingame, so I could drop by with scanner/laptop or borrow the box and return it. (I'm off to Yosemite tonight for the weekend, though).
Posting images online (e.g. on flickr) would be an effective way to share with the folks now often scattered across the US.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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EDIT: I just changed this tiny Supertopo web file to a grayscale after first posting it still in its RGB format. It had been an RGB from ST and I kept it that way to achieve certain balances and out of curiosity as well. Of course it was originally a B/W but posted in RGB, probably scanned that way.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Thanks so much for the picture, Jane. What a great photo! Thanks also, Peter, for the enhancement!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
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Jane, that photo is amazing, like father like son morphologically speaking. The essence of spitting image if ever there was one.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Yes, I had to go back and read the caption twice to make sure who was the father and who the son. I remembered thinking that I'd never seen him looking quite that neat and tidy in Camp 4 but that his father looked just like him - or the reverse.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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My scanners only go up to about 9"x12" but I'd be happy to help out (and there are some tricks to get digital versions of the images using a dSLR too)
email me details via the STForum mail utility
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Night Vision! Another memory about Tom pops into my head.
In 1964, when Tom was just starting to climb, we did Yosemite Point Buttress a week or so after Sacherer had freed it. We started a bit late, and I was slow at leading the crux, so we arrived on top after the sun had set. I was in a hurry to head toward the top of Yosemite Falls and down the trail, but Tom seemed unconcerned about approaching darkness, and I soon realized why. As we descended the Falls Trail in the dark, there was no way I could keep up and he got to the Valley floor at least an hour ahead of me.
Tom asserted that hiking in the dark was a skill that could be learned, and he taught a few of us later that year in a sojourn to Muir Woods in the Bay Area. Just look when you can for openings, and feel the trail with your feet, he said.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jane,
Several things need to happen with Tom’s images at this point.
They all need to be gathered together as a definitive or final whole.
They need to be archived digitally (high res scans) with some cataloguing system. Just the scans, no corrections as they are archives.
Corrections/repairs should then be done to the images that you want or are relevant to say, us here on Supertopo and the climbing community.
The more important or relevant images among them should then be made available here and other similar venues.
Perhaps some of these images might find their way into our literature as well, given time. That is how valued some of his work will be, I am certain.
He had a variety of media and some of it is quite important to climbing and some perhaps to Best Studios and the Parks. He was after all a type of professional photographer working at a crucial time in our and the Park’s history. I think you will find glass-mounted large format negatives, 2-¼ negatives (his Hasselblad phase), some 35mm ones ( I remember him having a Leica) and of course prints of varying sizes, some mounted even. Although it mostly will be black and white, I think he did some color too, I remembering back to 1970-71 when I knew him well.
It might turn out you would want a high class service to do this archiving work at least. I would recommend Dickerman in San Francisco on 1141 Howard St 415-252-1300. Although I also do this kind of work, Seth Dickerman’s lab is wonderful and very experienced. They also have a website where you can take a look at them: www.dickermanprints.com
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Thanks Peter, Clint and Ed, from all of us, in offering to help Jane with Tom's pictures. Tom's pictures deserve to be archived properly.
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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It's times like this that I almost regret looking at supertopo. The loss of such a Wonderful person, and old friend that I have not seen for years but have thought about not infrequently is sad news. I'll always remember Tom for his great laugh, wonderful sense of humor, love for climbing and the arts. The last time I saw Tom was not long after he started working at the shipyard. He mentioned the stress he was under and how hard the adjustment was transitioning from climber and artist to a high pressure job in nuclear engineering. I'm not surprised that he pointed out problems and perhaps became a whistle-blower It's who tom was. The world would be a better place with more Tom Gerughty's
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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I agree Barry.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Threads like this are so worthy!
Khanom very nice addition! +1
My sincere condolences to the family and friends.. + prayers
Posts like Jan's are indispensable.
Jim Donini, I hope you could use ur fame to bring forth your message for your daughter.
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Gimp
Trad climber
Grand Junction
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Increasing loss of inpatient psychiatric beds in this country is a very real issue. No shortage of marginally legitimate for profit "treatment centers" for the wealthy. But treatment for real organic type psychiatric disease is hard to get, particularly if a crisis occurs that requires an appropriate hospital setting (even when a means of payment is available).
One of my surgical colleagues just went through the struggle of this process with is own son who despite very good outpatient care was having a severe break that required admission.
No easy answer as "real" psych beds are very expensive and have low profit because of poor payer mix.
Health care dollars are just not spent wisely in this country and are too often gobbled up by an over abundant, over priced parasitic administration that really does not provide the needed element: actual healthcare.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
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Jane, those are wonderful! I remember Ton's fascination with slowing down movement in his compositions.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Since Tom worked in the lab with some of the leading photographers of the century giving seminars there as well as Ansel of course, Tom had astounding opportunities. I always thought he was awfully talented and hoped he would be able to maintain photography as a profession.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Thanks for the photos j. Gerughty. I had not seen Tom's work before as he started serious photography after I knew him.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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It turns out Gail and I live a few miles apart down here in Corralitos and we have many friends in common in the art world here, Cabrillo College also.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B in Arizona
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Welcome to Supertopo, Gail
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Tom's FA and FFA activities in Yosemite Valley
Captain Hook, Right 5.9 FA 1963 Glen Denny, Eric Beck, Dave Cook FFA 1965 Tom Gerughty, Chris Fredricks
Crack of Despair 5.10a FA 1962 Frank Sacherer, Galen Rowell FFA 1964 Frank Sacherer, Chuck Pratt, Tom Gerughty
The Dihardral 5.10c FA 1961 Tom Frost, Royal Robins FFA 1964 Frank Sacherer, Tom Gerughty
Goodrich to the Oasis 5.9 FA 1966 Eric Beck, Mike Cohen, Tom Gerughty
Higher Cathedral Spire, Southeast Side, East Corner 5.10a FA 1965 Tom Gerughty, Chuck Pratt
The Hourglass, Right Side 5.10a FA 1962 Bob Kamps, Frank Sacherer FFA 1964 Frank Sacherer, Tom Gerughty
Jack Pinnacle, Left 5.9 FA 1964 Tom Gerughty, Dave Calfee
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Fabulous photos. Thanks for posting, and for the link to Gail. I still have several great mugs she made, with carabiners or bongs for the handles.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Jane,
I've saved Nov 16 for possible remembrance of Tom. I may have a few B&W photos he took of me and partners climbing at Pinnacles National Monument, long ago published in Ascent. I will try to find his prints and bring to the event.
I also have a few stories which might be worthy of sharing, one about how we teamed up on Crack of Despair after each of us separately had been dragged up that climb by tough mentors who we loved and hated; another about how I saved Tom after he fell through the ice in Tenaya Lake. Young and dumb, we were ice skating on that lake and unprepared for the worst case! Well, I might also recall a bit about our first ascents in Tuolumne, especially The Vision. Do you think such story sharing would fit the event you have in mind?
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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The images sent shivers up my back. So beautiful.
When I saw the name Gail Ritchie and the ceramics connection, I thought is that the woman that does teapots? Well yup....such a small world. I do a weekly bike ride that starts in Corralitos...in front of the market. The Santa Cruz people know where I mean.
Didn't know Tom, but his work would be of great interest to me if it becomes available. It made my heart skip ... Fully captivating.
Susan
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks for sharing the photos, Jane.
Here's a flipped version of the sweaters photo:
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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TH
I have never heard the falling through the ice story. Yes, please bring all the tales of the mountains. The memorial will be casual. A chance to meet, greet and share memories etc. Glad you can come.
Note: Gail and her husband will attend also.
Nice to read the initials correctly.Thank you CC!
My family, extended family, and I want to thank you again for all your kindness,understanding and support. Your sentiments have helped us process Tommy's passing in a way that would not have been possible without you.
My husband wants you to know that TCG also worked at the Moscone Center, SF for many years after Mare island doing electrical work -to set up for the Conventions. It seems his skills were appreciated.
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Sep 18, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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I sort of went off on a tangent from civilization
and never got back.
Norman Clyde
fits for my brother also.....
Be safe, enjoy time with you family and loved ones, take care,
Jane
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Sep 18, 2013 - 12:52am PT
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That's a hard illness to live with. May he rest in peace and all who have loved him find their way through this.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Sep 30, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
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Met him once in C4, briefly, just knew his name from the Green guide.
Condolences to family and friends.
Mental illness is a tough cookie. I am a full-time carer for my partner, who suffers from Korsakoff's Syndrome (K. Psychosis, K. Dementia, amnesiac-confabulatory syndrome) and depression. Though the depression has eased since we have been together these past six years and the Korsakoff's has gotten "better" after moving from Dalkey (Co Dublin) to Ballytrent (Co Wexford) this past month.
I hope that Tom is resting in peace.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Oct 31, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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Do we have a time for event?
Tom
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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Ah, Gerughty, rest well....
Kimbrough
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Please email me for more info on the memorial event which will be Nov 16 at 3 pm at Marine Headlands Hostel.
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Dear friends of T Charles,
The memorial event is scheduled for Sat Nov 16 at 3 pm Marin headlands hostel.
Our main memorial event will be an informal gathering on Sat at 3pm in the dinner hall living room of the officer's quarters for dinner, sharing,viewing photos and conversation.
please rsvp via email
Sincerely,
The siblings: jane Gerughty, David Gerughty and respective families
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Hope to bring some old B&W photos Tom shot and developed. Some may wish to show electronic pics, if family agreed. Any provision for projector?
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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yes, Gail has a projector..now i need a screen...there might be one at the old house
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 10, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
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I have a screen
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 10, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Nov 17, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
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Picture of Pywiak Dome this morning on my way back from Tom Gerughty’s Memorial yesterday at Marin Highlands – a poignant event where family and old friends recalled how fondly we felt about Tom, and how much better looking we all were 40 years ago in Tom’s old slides. I hardly recognized myself, let alone my friends.
Tom Higgins expressed an insightful view of the historical importance of Gerughty’s 1966 ascent, with Dave Meeks, of “The Spiral Dike,” his original name for the route and more evocative than “The Dike Route” as people call it now. By creating one of the first hard Yosemite climbs with no obvious crack system anywhere on it, Tom (Gerughty) started a bold, pioneering practice of following holds upward with the belief that one might be able to stop somewhere and place a bolt. Though not as technically difficult as the Bachar-Yerian, Tom’s 1966 shoes were Kronhofers and he had no hooks to help with bolt placements.
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 17, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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Please post photos of yourselves back in the day here.
It would help so much in keeping tract of who's who and making connection to the old slides[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photoid=330772]id=330771]id=330770]id=330769]id=330767]id=330766]. I think I have everyone strait now after meeting you at the memorial gathering. Ken, after you scan those slides, will you post a handful? Please include that clear one of yourself and any other portraits that would be nice to share.
Thank you to all ,who could attend, for joining us in remembering Tom.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 17, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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Long Live The Spiral Dike!
I stepped off the back of a Suzuki 650 long ago and did the route stone cold and unroped. I felt a strong connection with the FA smearing about up there for all I was worth.
I ran into TM many years later and commented on Tom's effort that it still felt hard to me after many ascents and he looked me right in the eye and said "It's always like that".
Certainly was a rite of passage for me long ago. Pure commitment.
Much respect Tom.
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 17, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 17, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
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That photo of Gail is just a stunner!
if you knew her at that time
you'd drop your jaw like mine.
Good rest, Tom.
We'll keep the fires burning.
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 17, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 17, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 17, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 17, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 17, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 17, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 17, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
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j. Gerughty
Social climber
Pacifica
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Nov 17, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 17, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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Cute pictures.....it sounds like the memorial was a very nice event. I hope it helped all of Tom's loved ones find peace.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
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Wonderful afternoon with old friends and new and Tom right there with us in spirit and soul. Cool vibrant day out on the Marin Headlands, it would be hard to imagine a better rendezvous and a final goodbye.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Nov 17, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
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I'm sorry I missed this event and thanks to everyone for posting the photos. Tom and the summer of 1965 when we were near neighbors in Camp 4, will always be dear to my heart.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2017 - 02:04pm PT
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Bump from the past...
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