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Messages 1 - 249 of total 249 in this topic |
James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 26, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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I wrote a bit about the latest Yosemite Bolt War on my blog. Check it out
Yosemite Bolt Wars
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hagerty
Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
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Apr 26, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
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I think you were wrong to remove it.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 26, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
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Seems like a historical landmark to me, one that means allot to all kinds of people from all over the world. Erasing it, Why? So you can write about it on your Blog?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 26, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
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Blow me...
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 26, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
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Good riddance, who needs to be reminded of history?
This thing should be scratched out too:
And there's a bunch of petroglyphs at Donner Summit that need cleaning too.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Apr 26, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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Heh...
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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It's pretty funny for you to make the statement "does climbing need these trademarks?" after you have taken it upon yourself to be the judge and jury... maybe you should take a bit of ownership and say "I have decided for the world that we don't need these trademarks"
Who cares if people like taking a picture next to it? If Photogenic Euros annoy you don't boulder there, tie in and go get some exposure.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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Sounds like an old-dog who is over the hill, past his prime, still feels the need to pee on a fire hydrant.
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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fool...
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
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That memorial to Raffy Bedain really pisses me off. I'm going to pull it out.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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You have written better James. I'm fine with you scrubbing it off. How will people find it now? That is the question....
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
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Sounds like an old-dog who is over the hill, past his prime, still feels the need to pee on a fire hydrant.
But, he's not an old-dog. I remember when James showed up in the Valley, a talented noob, getting in over his head... just like the rest of us were bitd.
The Midnight Lighting chalk never bothered me. In fact, it releases a ton of memories. Mostly of failure and falling off the bolt hold, time and time again, ha ha. It's a piece of history, IMO.
James, if you really want to make a difference you should go on crusade of erasing all the big ass letters that universities, colleges and even high schools graffiti on the mountains and hillsides of every big town and city in the US.
Now THAT would be a proud and a worthy cause. Eye soars, IMO.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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Booooo!
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Nkane
Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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The magic left the bolt years ago.
The magic may have left your heart, but not mine.
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JBoydston
climber
Deep South
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
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Why did you need to remove it and spray about it on the internet?
After laying my eyes on El Cap and Half Dome for the first time, the next thing I wanted to see was Midnight Lightning (with the lightning bolt, of course).
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
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go send 'Massively Inflated Sense of Self Importance', V12, and impress us all. Christ, talk about first world problems. what the f*#k ever.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
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James, I never said the Euros did it! , I said "It was The French" that put the Bolt back, for photos. Anyway Bless your Heart, you mean well. DF
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
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I hope I never meet you...I already don't like you.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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Rising above the noise to catch Internet eyeballs must be getting harder and harder. Is bad attention really better than no attention?
I would personally have more respect for someone who spent the same amount of time going on a hike and picking up trash. Plus a lot more people would be supportive of that than tearing down a symbol to which a lot of people attach meaning. It obviously carries a lot of meaning for you too, or you wouldn't have focused your attention on removing it.
I had never spent the time to consider whether it was an eyesore or not, but common social graces would dictate that one considers group sentiment on a group resource before acting unilaterally. On the other hand, the same could be said that Bachar acted unilaterally to defile the rock without consulting the tribe. Who knows. Tempest in a tea pot. Better to just climb.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Apr 26, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
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james, I read your previous post about hueco and thought it was a wonderful narrative about the intractable access issues there. You really struck the right balance between hearing both sides of the argument.
In this case, I think you've misjudged the climbing communities' fondness for this bit of bachar's graffiti. Although it has proved an interesting experiment!
You say time has made it irrelevant. I disagree, time has done quite the opposite.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 26, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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Why did you need to remove it and spray about it on the internet?
For attention, duh.
It is either a great prank/troll, or a pretty foolish action. If Bachar himself drew the original and it became part of that boulder/problem, why f*#k with it? Aside from getting attention on internet of course....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 26, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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Haha tough crowd.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Apr 26, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
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That sucks. Its not like the Columbia Boulder is way out in the middle of the woods, it is smack dab in the middle of Camp 4. A trademark of Yosemite Bouldering. The "Bolt" looked way better than that polished stone bench sitting under the boulder.
Why just erase the Bolt? Why not clean the chalk off of all the other holds? It's the same stuff isn't it?
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Apr 26, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
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But u just erased some history, that my boy JB did
Prolly not the first time this has happened...
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willm
Social climber
Oakland
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Apr 26, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
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The bolt was redrawn. If you're upset about what James did, the best thing to do might be to pretend it never happened and deprive him of the attention.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Apr 26, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
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Although this latest article might not be the best example, I think James is an excellent writer , and I really enjoy reading his blog . I also have a tremendous respect for the effort and dedication he put into his recovery after his crater in Jtree.
As for the bolt , who cares , seems like it is here to stay no matter what James does... get over it .
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
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Tough crowd.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 26, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
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but you can never take back what u destroyed.
+1.
Dude, it was drawn by Bachar. Even though it can be chalked up again and again by whoever, WHY THE F*#K WOULD YOU ERASE A LINK TO A HISTORIC CLIMBER (that is by now dead)? Yes, it could be drawn again, but if it isn't by original author, it is irrelevant now. Might as well draw a big penis on it. How much do most people care about looking at a fake Mona Lisa?
Everyone have opinions, but actions are actions. You f*#ked something up for everyone else, in a way that can't be fixed. (if it isn't a troll, which I hope it is!)
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Apr 26, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
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Sorry James, but that was a true lapse of judgement.
I'm sure your motives to remove this made sense to you, but in this case it was misguided imo. Maybe you have spent way to much time in Camp 4 getting jaded to "the scene" and the constant inflow of new climbers? Best if you had conferred with those that have been around Camp 4 much longer than you. Many of us, (Whom don't make it to The Valley as much any more) still smile when passing that lightning bolt, reflecting on the years and appreciating the historical symbol of what it meant for our era.
Rock climbing, as a sport, may not be around in a hundred or a thousand years. However, that lightning bolt hopefully will live on as a symbol of those who were exploring the envelope of what was possible, at the time, in our era.
Reading that blog reminded me of my feelings of hearing of the Taliban blowing up the monumental Buddas of Bamiyan in 2001; A piece of history needlessly destroyed.
Edit: Can anyone confirm that the original was removed, and not a troll from someone with nothing better to do?? Seems awfully strange that someone would bother to write an account of this.
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pelut espania
Big Wall climber
Espania
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Apr 26, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
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Hola mi Americano Dogs! I too left my marko in the Nationals Park and you stupid Americanos erased my art! Eat my chorizo you American dogs and look to my art and A6 with art at base masterpieces are not the graffiti of my people but art. My art is big and your chalk art is on a boulder! Ha! You dogs! Viva Espania!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Apr 26, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 26, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
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At a boy...
Ya goof.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Apr 26, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
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Callin' troll on the whole deal - blog and thread.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 26, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
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James, you seem like a decent guy. That being said, I believe the bolt is one piece of street art that should have remained. I never did the thing, so I have no laurels to rest on, just my impression. I mean JB his-own-self drew the thing, and it's only chalk.
Really curious about the motivation here, to out trad the purists?
What other purist things have you done that warrant such an act on your part?
Good luck keeping it off there....
And on a lighter note: How did everything become a "rig" to be "sent?"
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Apr 26, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
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Classic Coz! Thanks for making me smile. I'm sure James knew it would be put back and it will be there for the foreseeable future.
"Not sure why Dean, my friend is being nice to u, or sucking up...
But u just erased some history, that my boy JB did, I don't care who you think you are.
Basically you're a dork, and a fool, and should apologize to the world wide climbing community.
Your action seem attention grabbing... Maybe Mommy wasn't too nice to you, but you can never take back what u destroyed."
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StevenStrong
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 26, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
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I would think, at minimum, a person would want to be able to successfully do the problem before contemplating messing with the bolt image. Especially one that people obviously hold as a strong symbol of history in the Valley.
Steve
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
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Apr 26, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
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lucky for you i dont beat up retards...ive drawn a line there
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 26, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
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Whats the big deal here? That problem is kinda ugly anyways. And if you need to have the lightning bolt there to show where the problem is then I don;t know what to say. The bolt is just inflating your ego if it has to be there in the photo of you attempting it. Despite being in the middle of a campground It think we need to strive to stop leaving such eyesores. I'd rather see lichen and rock in its place.
Coz, Bachar's original chalk is long gone at this point. So whats the difference.
I respect James as he thinks out of the box.
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
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Apr 26, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
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drag me out of my reclusive bliss ...for some ..wow people are stupid..all you people who support lumen boys efforts are straight up dip shits..
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Apr 26, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
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Not that I've ever climbed the thing, or stood at the base of it but I feel inclined to chime in and say (respectively) that I don't think your actions were right here.
It is no one persons place to decide what is right and wrong and what should or should not be removed. If it was your boulder problem and people were drawing sh#t on it well then you might have a case but there is history to that problem, and history to the bolt itself.
Add to that the connection to Bachar (RIP) and you should have known you would ruffle a few feathers.
I'm not going to call you names and threaten you, that's not my style but if this is true and not a troll, your actions seem rather disrespectful and saddening really.
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
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Apr 26, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
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ya walk through the cesspool we lovingly refer to as camp 4...and are offended by chalk on a boulder..oh we are cleaning up the eye sore eww we are so cool...i have climbed it not that it matters and i lived in camp 4 for 10 years and walked by it daily...you and your panty waist pansy assed buddies are IDIOTS..
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Apr 26, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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hahahahaha!
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
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The thing is still there as of an hour ago.
Did something die?
Or someone just redrew the thing back up there?
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
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if you did it u suck if you trolled it...well i do love a good troll..
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
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the heart wants what the heart wants walleye
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:15pm PT
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James, you better not f**k with the graffiti in the 2nd bathroom stall. There are some gems in there that transformed my life perspective when I first arrived in Yosemite and hung out at the C4 bathroom all the time, surrounded by mooks, basking in the fact that I was then, at that moment, shitting where legends shat...
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
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James never cleaned anything completely to begin with.
Removing the StoneMaster "lightning Bolt" and leaving the man made black carbon behind it from the campfires
that used to be there in the early days shows incomplete consciousness.
In other words "Stupid Americans" think they're cleaning or restoring something
and only doing a half ass job and then thinking it's complete.
Ho Mannn
James .... you have earned a date with the "K Dorm Flasher" .....
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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I just recieved an email from james mom, she says its not really his fault ..he suffered a traumatic head injury while being brutally molested by a small herd of wild goats ...
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Some Random Guy
climber
Under a Little Pink Umbrella
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
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Might as well draw a big penis on it
hmmmmmmmmm..............
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
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the bolt will always be there..you cry baby posers can erase it..but it will always be back..
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
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I'm with JakeW, there is some classic graffiti in the toilet stalls. My favorite- "Are all climbers bi?"
I mean, they do spend a lot of time walking around without shirts admiring their bodies. Lot's of lonely and cold nights in camp 4. No sheep in the park since John Muir....?
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
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there are these lovely creatures called women..
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
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Congrats James, you sure showed those old farts who's the new boss.
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ryankelly
Trad climber
el portal
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Apr 26, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
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finally, some controversy
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 26, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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Too bad they got rid of all the Deli tables with all that fine art drawn by bottle caps.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 26, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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Beauty is in the eye of the be(er)holder.
Ken
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Apr 27, 2013 - 12:06am PT
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I found the bike James rode over to the boulder to do his work
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 27, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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This may be just what James was after. He couldn't think of a better way to be the new Bad Boy on the block.
Cleaning up a little chalk in the middle of C4, that is a little backwards if you think of it....
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Mittens
climber
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Apr 27, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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You were totally out of your element in removing such a historical symbol that has endured over 30 years in Camp 4. Undoubtedly, chalk markings on boulders, from tick marks to lightning bolts, can be an eyesore and should generally not be accepted in a natural setting. However, the historical significance of the lightning bolt far outweighs it's perceived unsightliness (by some). By removing the bolt you have removed a small part of Yosemite's climbing history. Why not remove 'Starry Eyed Man' in Hueco? Is it also no more than graffiti in a natural setting? Time is what distinguishes graffiti from history and the lightning bolt has endured enough time to achieve a symbolic reverence not unlike the petroglyphs Hueco, albeit on much shorter scale. If I drew a chalk shoe on the Blue Suede Shoes slab, it would be erased in a day and gone forever, as would any chalk drawing on a newly developed boulder. But the bolt was different, and you erased a valuable part of climbing history that would have endured another 30+ years and will surely appear again, expressing the vanity of its removal.
Additionally, I find removing the bolt and sharing this post more than a tad egocentric and rabble-rousy on your part, especially considering that you've never climbed the thing (cite: 8a.nu). Now, I know it shouldn't make a difference on an ethical basis whether you have or haven't done it, but when you put the time into the Lightning you develop a personal connection with its symbolism as the catalyst of modern bouldering. You removing the lightning bolt would be like a hiker attempting to remove bolt hangers from a route because their sight detracts from his/her natural experience. Totally out of your element. Anyway, It'll surely return, and unfortunately all you have done is marred its history. This blog post came off to me as snooty and pompous and if you had true wilderness ethics and public service in mind, you wouldn't made a spectacle of it. Statement noted.
(Copied from my post on his blog)
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2013 - 01:04am PT
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The caliber of this crowd rose above and beyond my expectations
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 27, 2013 - 01:13am PT
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I had to look up what "solipsistic" means.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 27, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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Ohhhh, as in lightning bolt. Now I get it!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Apr 27, 2013 - 01:51am PT
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I really don't have anything constructive to say about this.
keep it classy James
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 27, 2013 - 02:22am PT
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The Sleestak cell planned it all.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 27, 2013 - 04:11am PT
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10 points for stirrin up the panties of this overly nostalgic bunch. -8 points for the anxiety that the action (if real) is making me feel. I have traced it with my hand and have imagined all the fingers that also touched the exact location marked on the stone. But nostalgia is dumb, so you are still up 2 points.
Peace.
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Apr 27, 2013 - 05:35am PT
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Having lived in France for the last few years where most cliffs have route names painted on the bottom, fixed lines and re-bar rungs for 3rd class bits on approaches, and of course bolts on everything it's so funny how touchy people get in the states about stuff like this. Never mind the roads you drove to get there and all the other man made stuff that creates our world, but something like the lightening bolt is a problem? Or a route name on a chunk of rock at the canyonlands?
The whole idea of being the eco-warrior climber is laughable, but all the companies sure can market it to us yanks...
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Apr 27, 2013 - 07:30am PT
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What Would BURT BRONSON Do? (WWBBD)
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jfailing
Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
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Apr 27, 2013 - 08:50am PT
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James has certainly stirred up the the climbing community... Perhaps some of us are overreacting a bit though? It's not like it was the original bolt - Bachar's chalk was likely long gone before James' cleaning. So prior to the recent erasing, was the bolt not exactly what it currently is now - a copy of the original? As others have said, it has already been redrawn, so the icon still exists... So then what differentiates the new one from the old one? I hear the French are pretty good artists fwiw...
Then again, what the hell do I know?
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Matt's
climber
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Apr 27, 2013 - 09:50am PT
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a couple comments
1) the actual midnight lightning climb is the true testament to kauk/bachar, more so than any chalk drawing.
2) climbers don't own the park. no one owns the park. think about what the park would look like if every "next-generation boulder-problem" required its own iconography.
3) i think what most people are upset about is the fear that the current/future generations of climbers don't learn about or respect their climbing fore-fathers.
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Apr 27, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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Actions of one selfish person acting alone trying to get a reaction.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 27, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
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It's chalk Randisi over the top of carbon soot from campfires.
If you are so worried about it the clean it off yourself and and get the carbon soot off too.
But you won't.
You'll sit on the internet and bitch .......
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 27, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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I love this thread. A bunch of grown men acting like babies and arguing over some chalk marks...
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Apr 27, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
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The chalk that was removed could be preserved at the yosemite climbing museum in a carefully labeled clear glass vial
a CSI style forensics team could assemble historical photos of the original lightning bolt, the one actually touched by Bachar. Ron and Werner would be hired as expert witnesses ( this is a positive ). The bolt could be recreated in epoxy based paint and certified as accurate by all authorities.
Or we could just go climbing like James actually does most days......
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 27, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
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Hey James,
___
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| |__ you!
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 27, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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Why not sack up and fix it right with spray paint.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Apr 27, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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not sure how i feel about this...kind of f*#ked up
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Gene
climber
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Apr 27, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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It's only a short lived gesture by the OP. The icon has been replaced on the altar. Just a minor footnote in our history, soon to be forgotten.
g
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Apr 27, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
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Well put Gene
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Apr 28, 2013 - 12:39am PT
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It's only a short lived gesture by the OP He did this under the cloak of darkness (night) knowing that he'd catch flak for it in front of everybody in the light of day. It's not too farfetched that next time it will be with a sledge and chisel to erase the route or something.
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mountainlion
Trad climber
California
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Apr 28, 2013 - 12:52am PT
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Who is "james" next to Bachar or Kauk?
this is his only claim to fame except falling off of north overhang in JT and living to tell about it!!
What has he done of note in the climbing world?? I haven't heard about it but am waiting to hear of it!!
Bachar and Kauk are THE HEROES for alot of us...at least for myself...I always dreamed of doing what they did...what I did do was much less but it was the best memories I have....
MUCH LOVE to all the climbing community!!
Go DONINI on the NIAD!!!!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Apr 28, 2013 - 12:53am PT
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^YES!!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Apr 28, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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Oy vey what a shitstorm. I tend to agree with the who do you think you are crowd.
Last year I had a bit of an epic removal from the base of New Dawn due to a medical issue. I bitched so much at the hospital that they ended up tossing me in an ambulance and dumping me in the C4 parking lot at like 3AM.
The next morning I was wandering around generally feeling like sh#t, and I happened to walk around Columbia and to the base of Lightning. I knew it was there, of course, but hadn't bothered to go look at it.
Seeing that bolt, and knowing the history behind it, absolutely floored me. And seeing it made my head clear, and made me realize how much this sport means to me. And I knew right then that even though I had gotten my ass kicked, I was still going to climb, and that everything was going to be ok.
I really don't think you have the slightest idea what that drawing means to some people. And I don't think you had the slightest right to choose to erase it.
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 28, 2013 - 01:12am PT
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Spray paint.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 28, 2013 - 01:18am PT
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I like James
He's a good guy.
Besides the lightning bolt got washed off naturally one winter anyways by Mother Nature herself.
I watched it happen in real time.
So ...... Blah blah blah blah.
You get the idea ....... :-)
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wannabeen
climber
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Apr 28, 2013 - 01:55am PT
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I see James also chipped the "sika reinforced" hold off ML... doing the goid work
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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Apr 28, 2013 - 09:52am PT
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That fall off of Intersection Rock REALLY messed him up!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Apr 28, 2013 - 10:58am PT
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Ed H, called this an Iconoclastic Act. Seems a little more like the act of a pechulant child craving attention.
Prod.
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orle
climber
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Apr 28, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
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Or a pechulant child with a Moses-complex craving attention, Prod.
And Moses went down from the mountain, but upon seeing the calf, he became angry. Moses burnt the golden calf in a fire, and ground it to powder.
Then Moses stood in the gate of the camp, and said: 'Whoso is on the LORD's side, let him come unto me.'
~Exodus 32:20
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Apr 28, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
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James is probably a christian.
The religious are always so self-righteous.
I heard through the grapevine that there's a bounty on him now.
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Some Random Guy
climber
Under a Little Pink Umbrella
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Apr 28, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
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^^^ how much?
maybe i can enlist the services of the chief to track him down...
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Apr 28, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
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george jones dies,
then the rock,
two white lightening deaths in the same week,
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Apr 28, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
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Troll. It worked.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 28, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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I like James
He's a good guy.
Yes, but Werner, you also believe that the Boston bombing was a Hollywood TV set, and in nine headed elephant Gods and stuff, so we have trouble taking your word for it....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 28, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
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Ya? Maybe.. It would be possible with photoshop. Anyone have an updated image? That would solve the question..
I would never dream of erasing something so historic myself. Even the nps seems to like it as they haven't sent a ranger to scrub the offending marks off over the last 30 years.
Will this be what brings their focus on the subject??
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Apr 28, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
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Haha. That made me smile Bruce.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 28, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
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A possible NPS perspective is that C4 is a vernacular cultural landscape and the bolt is a significant and identifiable part of that landscape. Jus' sayin. The only thing we know is that the OP did it when he would not risk confrontation, then blogged about it, then went to sites like supertopo to provide links to the blog. Massively lame no matter how you cut it.
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Apr 28, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
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I've been reading your blog, it sucks a lot. I saw your trip to Texas. Come back and try that Sh#t where I climb pussy.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Apr 28, 2013 - 11:06pm PT
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The lightning bolt has changed over time. I remember the old one, but it took upkeep.
Once I hadn't been to the valley in several years, came back, and it looked very different. It had been totally redrawn.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 28, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
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Why is Base 104 the only one else that knows this?
Is Supertopo stuooopid?
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 29, 2013 - 12:28am PT
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It wouldn't change much if it was reinforced with spray paint.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 29, 2013 - 03:40am PT
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James threads are always fun to read!
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Fishy
climber
Zurich, Switzerland
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Apr 29, 2013 - 06:20am PT
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James, I feel some of your pieces are really well done.
Finding new subjects for powerful or entertaining essays must be really tough.
But this action was really a bad idea.
One doesn't have to speak quietly in a Church; but this respectful tradition is still observed even by visitors or non-religious folk, because it does mean something to others.
I would like to admire you for both your actions and your words. But even the best writing cannot compensate for a subject that is manufacured or artificial, hurtful or disrespectful.
I am looking forward to your next blog entry - another great one I hope.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 29, 2013 - 09:35am PT
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Good for you James. Way to follow your heart, and go and do. Instead of all the blow hards in here.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 29, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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Good for you James. Way to follow your heart, and go and do. Instead of all the blow hards in here.
-1
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 29, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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The blog post and OP here smacks of trolling, but I did't want to say that early and ruin the fun.
What's really interesting to me is the bolt itself.
In my romanticized imagination I guessed that when you sent the problem you got to re-trace the bolt to 'keep it going'. And under hundreds of layers of chalk was the remains of JB's original bolt. Maybe I'll keep believing that.
I also like the permanent un-permanence of the medium. That is: chalk drawing is temporary, it won't permanently mar the beauty of the rock nature graciously dropped in the middle of Camp 4, but it is permanent through the loving reapplication of the original image by many like minded climbers, contributing to the history and community artwork it has become.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 29, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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James, stop skulking around under the cover of night with this ridiculous attention-seeking. Do something useful - like get back in the kitchen, crater-boy, and bake me a pie.
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
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Coz-
Mother Nature took off the lightening bolt a few times. Other climbers have erased the bolt before. In both cases, and in my removal, the bolt returned. In the current incarnation, the bolt returned with a little more life to it.
I saw the lightening bolt as a trademark. People focused more on this bit of chalk then the climb or the people who embodied the spirit of it. For the week and a half the bolt was gone, I saw the line that Ron and John fought for, the cool start that Jerry established, and the crimpy face that Ron did.
I've walked by the bolt thousands of times in my decade of living. When the bolt was gone, I got to see more of Columbia.
In my discussions with the people around Yosemite and certainly on Supertopo, I've found that the people who mind don't matter and the people who matter don't mind.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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James- you sir, SUCK....
Stop trying to make yourself "Matter" you don't and never will.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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I've found that the people who mind don't matter and the people who matter don't mind.
And who are you to decide whose opinion matters and doesn't? What is your criteria? If you want to do good for the community go clean up bathrooms or something. That lightning bolt became something more than just a drawing over time.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
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James I'm beginning to think that your attitude is far more G-H-E-TT-O
than the bolt could ever be.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
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James said:
blah blah blah, wank wank wank
Enough spray, where's my pie, boy?
Since you fancy yourself a writer, two points:
1. What "trade", pray tell, was taking place under that "trademark"?
2. Lightning. Unless your tubby ass is on a diet, then it might be "lightening".
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
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That drawing/watercolor on the previous page is amazing!
James seems like a dude with a good sense of humour & a decent guy who loves climbing. It's obvious though how his inability to apologize to those who were affected more deeply by his actions & grudgingly maintain a stubborness that he is still "right" for doing something that probably wasnt even worth mentioning & then spraying down in multiple outlets don't do him any favors here. James you are right that actions speak louder than words but in this case why were the words so necessary? What did u have to prove by reporting this? If you had posted that you spent the day cleaning all the tick marks in camp 4 & picked up a bunch of tape & butts off the ground in the boulders you would probably be a hero even if u did buff the bolt. It was your delivery that was antagonistic & deservingly, incited this response. Never hurts to say sorry if u piss someone off. I don't mind much really because it is climbing related & a hilarious read although I can see why others would be pissed.
Just to stir the pot a bit though, and not like it matters at all but, u ever climb midnight lightning James?
Guyman, easy on the death wishes.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 29, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
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James, why not do it in the light of day then? If you are so certain of your convictions, why not just do it out in the open instead of tell us after the fact?
If you were really commited to this you would have stood up for what you believe in rather than seeking the cover of darkness.
Edit to agree with Ryan 100%, yes that painting is awesome!
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
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It used to be if you wanted be recognized in the Climbing WORLD you had to send big...
Now you just do something stupid and post on STopo....
Thank you for the internet Al Gore.
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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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Apr 29, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
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I dont really get it... seems like a bad idea to mess with legends lore!
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Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
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It really doesn't matter, but inquiring minds want to know:
Have you climbed it?
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Mees
climber
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Apr 29, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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Come on guys, he really dug deep for this one and deserves to be praised for his accomplishment. Y'all are just jealous for not thinking of this first.
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 29, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
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I could have blogged about learning to place heads on valley boulders, but nooooooo, I kept my as#@&%eness humbly to myself. Wait, oops.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Apr 29, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Speaking of erasing James....
What did CCMBA and Diarmuid Duggan say in the comment section of your Blog page? Seems the Administrator erased their comments, just curious.
Prod.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 29, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
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What did CCMBA and Diarmuid Duggan say in the comment section of your Blog page? Seems the Administrator erased their comments, just curious.
What's CCMBA?
Probably filled with four letter words and thinly veiled threats for ass whoopin' or some such.
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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They were deleted for foul language.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Apr 29, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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Props for thinking up a way to piss a bunch of people off without really hurting anything of any significance and at least arguably cleaning the place up a little bit. That's some good moxie!
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micronut
Trad climber
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Apr 29, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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I'd rather see the bolt stay, and have you erase all the chalk above if you want a project to clean something up.
I think it's magic. Graffiti from a magical era. An iconic image of an iconic time.
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Mark Not-circlehead
climber
Martinez, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
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Re- posting from the other comment I left on his blog page:
Your a f**ing idiot. That image is a defining idol in the climbing community. For me it has been a lifelong pursuit. Be a climber for 20-30 years, poll your peer group, be committed to your position before taking it upon yourself to decide for the rest of us, whether that bolt should remain or not.
Otherwise, I might decide, without the agreement of my peers, to remove your front teeth if I ever run into you in the Valley.
And I this post gets removed for my (non-felonious threat of a misdemeanor battery), I'll be done with Supertopo as well.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Apr 29, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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Your a f**ing idiot. That image is a defining idol in the climbing community. For me it has been a lifelong pursuit. Be a climber for 20-30 years, poll your peer group, be committed to your position before taking it upon yourself to decide for the rest of us, whether that bolt should remain or not.
Otherwise, I might decide, without the agreement of my peers, to remove your front teeth if I ever run into you in the Valley.
Haha, So are you CCMBA or Diarmuid Duggan?
Nice post. Almost as artistic as removing the bold.
Prod.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Apr 29, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
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Have you climbed it?
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
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It's back
So let this thread die.
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Mark Not-circlehead
climber
Martinez, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
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The FET wrote:
"In my romanticized imagination I guessed that when you sent the problem you got to re-trace the bolt to 'keep it going'. And under hundreds of layers of chalk was the remains of JB's original bolt. Maybe I'll keep believing that."
This was the belief that was instilled with me when I first came to the alley in the 80's.I don't know if that was really ever the case, if it's fallen out of favor, or what. But I still like the idea that you had to earn the right to re-trace that lightning bolt. I can't imagine what you would need to do to earn the right to erase it.
I'm in my mid 40's now, and have a renewed interest in sending it properly, not on top rote, as I did in the 90's. I like the bolt. it means something to me. It defines a big part of my life.....and I plan on tracing over the chalk lines when I send it this summer.
If someone wants to wantonly piss on that.....I'm okay with it. Really, I am.....Just don't be surprised if I start taking some societal liberties as well.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Apr 29, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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i agree with coz..
totally lame move. done for what reason i am not sure.
if you want to make an impact. scrub some chalk off the hundreds of problems in the valley.
or better yet rebuild the landings, do some trail work, pick up all the trash in the boulder field.
once again. totally lame maneuver and even worse to blog abut your action knowing full well the response you would get.
congratulations..
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Mark Not-circlehead
climber
Martinez, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
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Prod,
No, I am not CCMBA or Duggin whatever in the blog post. On the blog I am listed under my full, legal name. I have nothing to hide from.....
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Apr 29, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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james, i just realized that your name rhymes with lame.ss
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Apr 29, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
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Some of you who know JB should take a moment and reflect on what he'd say here. Cause I don't believe it would rankle him at all. (Old John, can't say for young John who seemed more intense).
What do ya say? Coz? Steve S? Werner? Dean F ? Ammon? WWJS? ie, What Would John Say? Serious question. Maybe that's part of the issue for you folks getting upset, that John isn't here, and you are sticking up for him in absentee. ? I dunno.
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Big Joe
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Apr 29, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
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"The magic left the bolt years ago." That you needed the cover of darkness disproves that silly statement.
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Apr 29, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 29, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
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BWA HA HA HA hahahahaaaa!!
Fuggin' Supertopo rules.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Apr 30, 2013 - 01:09am PT
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.....
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 01:17am PT
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The rangers busted me too.
I spoke with the prosecuting attorney at the Yosemite Courthouse. I escaped monetary fines but my community service involves graffiti removal. Plus, the "volunteer work" requires 150 hours of crushing.
Looks like I'll be training on Colombia.
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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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Apr 30, 2013 - 01:51am PT
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Delusions of grandeur
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Apr 30, 2013 - 02:04am PT
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Hey James. No one cares. Now go f*#k-off.
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drewsky
climber
Seattle
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Apr 30, 2013 - 03:41am PT
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Extra blog hits and endless discussion in online forums = mission accomplished. The attempt at poignancy falls somewhat flat; however, if all publicity is good publicity, the stunt is a success. So it goes.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 30, 2013 - 05:05am PT
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Hey asshat, nice try with your "citation." I went to FLETC. 36 CFR --- blank. Nice try. Never met you, and if this is a standard-issue ST troll, hats off. But I'm not getting that impression. You need attention. This is not a good venue. Maybe get a dog?
Eagerly awaiting your response.
And again: erasing the bolt at night, undercover, then blogging -- chickensh#t. Get a life. Or is this your life?! Nevermind. Feel sorry for you.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Apr 30, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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hmmm.... yeah, bad move. I'm glad that it's been redrawn already.
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Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 30, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
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So if history is worthless then we should disregard it all- memorials hhmmm?
I hope the mags don't publish his name so he can keep a copy to tack on his wall. Sure this is gonna be front page news.
Climbers from all over the world really feel a connection to this piece of grafitti regardless if they have climbed it or just taken a photo of it.
James, do you, or have you taken photos of touristy, historical sites regardless of how insignificant? Why not a Vietnam memorial next James? or the shack in Cali hills where Twain penned The Jumping Frogs of Calveras County, like really someone could build a nice 2 car garage there.
I don't think your in tune with any part of climbing than your new age blog.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Apr 30, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
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I'm gonna go climb the Pyramids.
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Apr 30, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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**I like Michelle's address.
That's it.**
Damn! Thanks for pointing that out, I didn't notice. Must have watched that scene a dozen times.
"The hotel, where I live. It's not fancy or nothing."
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Apr 30, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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Extra blog hits and endless discussion in online forums = mission accomplished. The attempt at poignancy falls somewhat flat; however, if all publicity is good publicity, the stunt is a success. So it goes.
Good one Drew.
I'm guessing that you're the Drew who stayed at my place in SLT with J a few years back?
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 30, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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Ha! Yup.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 30, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
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THIS IS A BIG DEAL.
Flood of '97 washed it off, it gets put on and off again every so often. If you get incensed at James, well, that's why he did it. Bolt is back to look me in the face while I flail* all over it.
*theoretically. I have this thing about NOT TRYING iconic problems unless I have some sort of a chance of doing them - no need to grease it up with my noobness! Mandala, Midnight Lightning, they are plenty greased up without my a-hyuck moments.
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altieboo
Sport climber
Das Blase
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Apr 30, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
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Perhaps this was all an "experiment" to see if people care about such a thing. Seems as if people do care. Which is a great thing.
So, experiment a success? Failure? All of the above?
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Apr 30, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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Seems as if people do care
... I would change that to 'some' people care , and the majority of those that do will post on this thread .
I can assure you there are many people who do not give a damm... And see this as much ado about nothing
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Apr 30, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
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Most people might not care, but most climbers do.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 30, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
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It is a connection to Bachar. That stuff is important imho. His physical mark upon the valley. Among many.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
|
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Apr 30, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
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The more I think about it...and I have a gift for seeing both sides to every argument...that was quite the lame toast thing to do. I've been climbing 35 years and I LOVE the lighting bolt! What in the heck were you thinking? Do you actually ENJOY pissing people off? Does that make your life seem more fulfilling?
The part that really blows my mind is hiding at night to not arouse a real life negative response, and then spraying about it on the internet! Who does that???
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drewsky
climber
Seattle
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Apr 30, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
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Brandon: that took me a second but yes, same Drew! Been a while.
I think people are overreacting to this. Giving it the attention required for long, crafted responses is giving it too much attention. This really seems like something targeted at all those here who can't help a knee-jerk reaction and subsequent posting sprees.
I find myself without strong opinion although something about the attention grab doesn't sit well with me.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Apr 30, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
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I can't see any good reason to phuq with it other than to get a rise.
Like trying to piss off your little brother or sister because you can.
Hell no I didn't send.
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covelocos
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Apr 30, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
|
Bull.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Apr 30, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
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This sounds like the kind of thing someone who shot that deer with the bow and left it running around the valley wounded last fall would do.
However the odd thing about all this is how easy it is to put it back. Hell Ron Kauk can put it back if he wants. Anyone can. It's probably the only sanctioned (or at least tolerated) new graffiti in a national park. An appropriate exception.
The bolt is immune to damage so it's not the erasing that bothers folks. It's the ancient war of young vs old. For the older it's the memory of our heydays and a disrespect of them that hurts.
The OP knew what he was doing at least as far as kinda spitting in folks faces. Just like the guy who put the crucifix in the pee bottle and pretended it was art.
Though I doubt even now he really understands what he was doing and why. He is young and still has a lot to learn about himself. Not all of it will be a pleasant enlightenment.
Hurting peoples feelings is something most youngsters do for fun occasionally. Some folks grow out of it. Part of his statement is to make fun of those he imagines as less hardcorp than himself also. He seems to need a position of superiority as part of the new generation valley local hardcorp scene.
Look at me I'm badass and you are merely an imposter not worth my consideration. I remember being like that. I grew up. He probably will also. Killing the monkey on his back seems involved also. As if doubts he can quite measure up to his heroes. The bolt seems to have been a real distraction for him somehow. He seems to think it was becoming more important than the rock. Clearly it was for him. There is a lot going on in that young psyche.. as is usual for the driven young climber.
Yep a new generation of legends is crafting itself in the Valley. Some will be remembered for their climbing some for other things. Hopefully James will not have too many regrets.
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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Peaches- overall, I think your writing has improved. You're saying more with less, so good job on that. Your piece spoke to me, and your blog post also had good history and photos,so I liked the read. I interpret your action different than the majority here. I get what you were going for, and even though I love the bolt, I support your action. I think you probably love the bolt too and what it represents, that's why you did what you did. It's a little pretentious, but I dig the spirit nonetheless. Keep killing the Buddha.
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dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
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Kind of like a "Munson"
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dbclt
climber
Charlotte
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Peaches- overall, I think your writing has improved. You're saying more with less, so good job on that. Your piece spoke to me, and your blog post also had good history and photos,so I liked the read. I interpret your action different than the majority here. I get what you were going for, and even though I love the bolt, I support your action. I think you probably love the bolt too and what it represents, that's why you did what you did. It's a little pretentious, but I dig the spirit nonetheless. Keep killing the Buddha.
please. don't paint this fool to be some ego-less saint. it's the height of egodom to take something that thousands of people care about and destroy it for personal reasons.
anyways i don't think he ever erased it at all. i think he wanted to see everyone's reactions, which is almost as bad.
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ryankelly
Trad climber
el portal
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A really good essay would be one that could put into words why so many love a bolt chalked on a rock.
Who is up for that project? (Leave out the character assassinations)
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Fair question Ryan. It is now an iconic symbol that shows up all over the place. It a strong symbol for those who remember the stonemaster days and the time when it was the hardest or one of the hardest problems in the world. A symbol of climbing history and hero's and legends in a historic place. For those legends as well.
Symbolism is pretty huge for humans. Respect is a key component of it's strength. Rationally it may not make much sense because this one is so easily replaced, but we are emotional beings before rational ones most of the time. It's the symbolism. I'm sure they have written a couple words about it in psychology
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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There sure are some dense people on this sight. Geez, amazing that no one can recognize a joke or find humor in it. Suckers.
James is one funny dude. Just read the rest of the stuff on his blog or go see him give a slideshow and you will get it.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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This was almost as funny as when he said he put false tick marks on The Nose when the Huber's were working it. Now that was funny!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Geez, amazing that no one can recognize a joke or find humor in it.
It would be a good joke if he didn't actually erase it...
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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world's biggest tickmark erased!
Lot of hue and cry for something impermanent like chalk. That was then redrawn.
Good one James.
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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^^^how do you know he really erased it? He is yankin' your chain.
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orle
climber
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Geez, amazing that no one can recognize a joke or find humor in it.
Guess that kinda backfired..
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Didn't Ron do the FA of Midnight Lightening?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Then why all the Bachar memorial stuff? Was it he who drew the Bolt originally?
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Kinobi
climber
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I came 4 times to Camp 4 from very far away.
The bolt was always there.
Why you erased it, I have no clue.
Im my opinion you see too sparcely women (or men, according to your behaviour). I suggest you to have some sex, because it's obvious you are facing serious problems.
Vai a prenderla in culo, stronzo di merda.
Emanuele
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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The Bolt
By Kalen Glenn
Some Humans want to be strong. Some want to stand out, and be bold.
There are places in this world, where only strong, bold people can go.
These places can be found in the Ocean.
Waves sought by serious souls can kill the weak.
These places are also in the Mountains.
Places where bold souls risk life and injury,
not to win power,
not to win fame,
nor riches.
People travel for days upon Trains, Planes, and Automobiles,
just to test their strength,
and their boldness.
Nestled in the Valley, there is a singular Stone that stands tall and center.
Surrounding it lie the legions of strong, bold souls from around the globe.
Only the strongest, only the boldest,
are able to ascend the Stone's overhanging face.
Drawn on it's face is a gleaming white lightning bolt,
painted, only in chalk.
Restored, only by fingers.
The symbol of Zeus, the highest of the highest order,
adorning this center stone as a symbol of strength and boldness!
May it forever be so.
May thousands upon thousands of strong, bold souls for Millennia to come,
have the honor to come and take the test.
For upon reaching the top, one never again questions.
They know they are strong.
They know they are bold.
And the world needs souls who know they are strong and bold.
Will I be Strong?
Will I be Bold?
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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This thread is so bad. Everyone is all over the place.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Krona.... THX, nice read.
Ron.... true
Michaeld.... keeps you clicken...
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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I wonder, does James have blocks of petroglyphs in the trunk of his car..?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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^^^how do you know he really erased it? He is yankin' your chain.
Cuz I was there 5 days ago and looked at that boulder. New one is fresh, and looks a bit different. I don't find it funny at all. Just a cry for attention. I mean erasing it at night, and blogging about it?...how lame is that?
Been to his slide show too. Same jokes he has up on the blog (which were funny when you read it for the first time). Show was called "Yosemite's Next Top Idol." Even if that was supposed to be a joke, it's obvious that he is a little attention whore.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Social climber
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Was it he (Bachar) who drew the Bolt originally? Yes. I read it in Stone Crusade.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Exactly right Ron, the ancient art was done discreetly. They did not have many alternatives for leaving a permanent record. Ancient hieroglyphics were not immature spray.
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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it's obvious that he is a little attention whore I suppose so. Lot's of attention whores here on this sight w/blogs. Even ones about climbing trade routes in the dead of winter.
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Coolcarl
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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This has inspired me to erase the "CU" etched on the third flatiron. I will be starting a kickstarter in the next couple days, as I estimate I'll need around 200 toothbrushes to clean it all off.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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I can't believe that ya'll are this upset over the Ultimate Troll.
Think about it: The bolt isn't the original, so he didn't destroy anything with historical value, and it will be always get re-drawn within a day or two of erasure (no matter how many times it gets brushed off).
The community is attached to it as a cultural resource, so there will be a big reaction to Jimmy the Craterboy's midnight scrubbing attention-whoring shenanigans. But there is no lasting harm, just re-draw the damn thing.
At the end of the day, Jimmy-go-Splat gets hits on his blog, and pumps up a fake controversy that he may even get to write about in the rags, for pay. How many Largo simile ripoffs he includes in that prose remains to be seen, but Vegas puts the over/under at 4 based on his prior scribblings.
Ignore the Trolling, just Send It. (Which I actually didn't in this pic, sent it two weeks later...notice the left foot is too far left, screws up the rockover)
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I say we hold him down and prison tattoo the bolt on his forehead!!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Listen my children and you shall hear
Of the midnight scrub of James Crateer,
On the twentysixth of April, in year thirteen;
That poor man who ruptured his spleen
And couldn't top out cause he couldn't smear.
He said to his blog, "The magic left the bolt years ago"
So he cleaned it away in the dead of night,
But he's too proud to eat some crow.
And admit what he did is not right.
The citizens of the web were upset
And said it's attention he's trying to get,
That the bolt would return is nothing but fate
And if you could just lose some weight,
Then you too could send that V8.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Way to go James!
Some folks would rather chew on tin foil than to see the bolt erased, no doubt. Nice nerve you exposed!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I suppose so. Lot's of attention whores here on this sight w/blogs. Even ones about climbing trade routes in the dead of winter.
It's alright dude, next I will go kill off peregrine population of Yos and write a TR about that instead. Will generate a lot more traffic than these trade routes...lol
PS: oh and I will only post a link since that too will give my blog more clicks. Good idea!
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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And on the Eighth Day, God created as#@&%es.
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Some Random Guy
climber
Under a Little Pink Umbrella
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ha ha, this be some good controversial entertainment!
I wonder, does James have blocks of petroglyphs in the trunk of his car..? sh#t, so he was the one who drilled out all those petroglyphs from the buttermilks area. f*#ker!
james, it has come to my attention that your balls are old pathetic and have lost their "magic" years ago. i will take it upon myself to chop 'em! do humanity at large a favor......or at least that's my take on it without having previously consulted with the co-creator. probably under the cover of night so as not to distress you with the impending action. and then....
....we hold him down and prison tattoo the bolt on his forehead!!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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I wanted to have an opinion on this but I just don't care. I was in yos last weekend and even thought about stopping by camp 4 and seeing if it was really gone, but couldn't be bothered.
I just don't get (i) why anyone really cares if he erased it, it's just chalk that can be redrawn, (ii) why anyone would care enough to erase it, or (iii) why anyone would care enough to not erase it but post on a blog that it had been erased.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Well done! Dude got his minute of fame! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/tnb-erasing-the-magic-of-midnight-lightning?page=2
“The Rangers at Camp 4 wouldn’t call it graffiti. In fact, there’s a certain respect and the emblem represents a certain time.”
Kauk mentioned he had spoken to Lucas directly about the lightning bolt’s removal, but that “he didn’t make a lot of sense.”
“A lot of times we’re struggling to be somebody,” Kauk said. “James might be a little clever for attention.”
I asked Kauk if he thought the bolt had become a trademark.
“It’s a connection to a time that isn’t trademarkable,” he answered quickly. “It’s so original. The lightning bolt recognizes the spirit of a story we created. We didn’t need a plaque or anything to remember it by. We already had our lightning bolt.”
Interestingly, Kauk then compared the chalked bolt to “ancient rock art,” saying, “It was our petroglyph and an icon of those times, which to me represents freedom. We certainly weren’t trying to sell anything.”
I guess dude who got the FA was one of those 'doesn't matter' people...LOL
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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If the bolt has lost meaning and significance to you, James, you could choose to not visit it any more. To erase this significant bit of our own history is the ultimate in self-centered actions. It's not just a slap in the face, it's the ultimate statement saying, "I am the only one who matters."
I'm sorry James, it's you who doesn't matter.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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This is what you'll be remembered for instead of everything else you've done. congrats. very cool to be an iconoclast.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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James Lucas is not the first person to vandalize an icon because of his own inability to deal with his inner demons.
Vandalism of art refers to intentional damage of an artwork (for unintentional damage see accidental damage of art). The object is usually exhibited in public, becomes damaged as a result of the act, and remains in place right after the act. This may distinguish it from art destruction and iconoclasm, where it may be wholly destroyed and removed, and art theft, or looting.
Numerous acts of vandalism against art exhibits are known and some objects, such as Mona Lisa, Night Watch and The Little Mermaid, have been intentionally damaged several times. Many vandals were diagnosed with a mental disorder and some, such as Hans-Joachim Bohlmann, had a history of attacking artworks. A vast amount of damage consists of leaving a minor scratch, a stuck chewing gum, a pencil mark and so on, and usually escapes publicity.[1] More visible acts of vandalism were premeditated, as the tool of destruction – a knife, paint, acid or hammer – was intentionally brought to the scene. In most cases, the artworks were restored. Restorations were costly and time consuming and in many cases were followed by shielding the artwork from future attacks.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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I saw Fattrad posted on the comments section. I'll put it down as he doesn't post here now.
"Jeff Elfont · UCLA
James can forget about being Yosmite's next idol, he may get beat out.
Reply ·
· 2 hours ago"
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
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you guys better watch out. James is friends with Alex
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Maybe you'd be bitter too, if all the cool kids ran around soloing stuff so you thought it was the cool kid thing to do
and then you decked.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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This thread is like Herpes
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
|
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Man... this hate-thread just keeps on going. I still can't figure out whether he is trolling or desperate for attention.
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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I've been to parties like this before
Nobody moves they just stare at the floor
Everyone's watching waiting on me
As if my words will set them free
But I'm not a ghost
No I'm not a god
I hold no power over you
I'm just a lightning rod
I've bottled every crush
Every foolish fantasy
I'm to beautiful for love
There's no sharing vanity
I'm not ashamed to say I've lost my mind
I've been walking backwards all my life
Some might say there's a price I've paid
For a life less ordinary
Welcome to my masquerade
I've been to parties like this before
Where the prom queen is easy on the floor
Nobody know what to say or do
So they point the fingers at you
But I will not be swayed
I won't be led astray
I'm to beautiful for blame
I always get away
But I'm not a ghost
No I'm not a god
I hold no power over you
I'm just a lightning rod
I'm not ashamed to say I've lost my mind
I've been walking backwards all my life
Some might say there's a price I've paid
For a life less ordinary
Welcome to my masquerade
I'm not ashamed to say I've lost my mind
I've been walking backwards all my life
Some might say there's a price I've paid
For a life less ordinary
Welcome to my masquerade
Welcome to my masquerade
Welcome to my masquerade...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
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D#@&%er of a move.
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Captain Triage
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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I'm a 60-year old wanna-be climber that can barely lead a 5.8. I have experienced the sense of history in Camp 4 since my first visit there in 1973. I have gazed at the lightning bolt many times wondering what could have been, had I lived my life differently. Could I ever have gotten good enough to do it?
My jaw drops at the self-indulgent arrogance of a man who unilaterally takes it upon himself to destroy a landmark that belongs to all of us.
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canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
|
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How do you "destroy" a landmark that has already been redrawn several times? The original is long, long gone. Read the thread and look at the pictures.
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Stevethefolkie
Trad climber
Abbottstown, PA
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I remember when RR chopped the bolts on the Harding route "wall of the early morning light" - back then I tried to figure out the logic of increasing the size of a physical scar that will never heal to satisfy a sense of personal superiority and or ego. The simple fact that you can justify an act or action in your own mind, or rationalize it to your personal satisfaction, does not make that act or action either right or correct, and "fashion" changes (I still don't believe "sport climbing" exists) - the bolts were placed as part of a creative process - chopping them is an insult to the creator, especially if, absent the bolts, the route cannot be replicated.
my 2cents - probably 2X it's actual worth
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Captain Triage
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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To make canyoncat feel better, of course it's been redrawn over the years. :p Nonetheless, he appointed himself the sole judge of what is correct and attacked a tradition that is meaningful to others and has historical context. It was arrogant, if not sociopathic.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
|
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Chances are good that his shtick won't play so good at this year's Facelift.
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orle
climber
|
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James is still recovering from a bad head injury and is not totally in command of all he does. How many years has he walked by the bolt or tried the problem itself? Now all of a sudden he just can't leave it alone?
Hmm..
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orle
climber
|
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From the R&I article:
Everyone I spoke with felt that the magic was still very much a part of the bolt. So I decided to ask Lucas himself why he felt so strongly about removing the bolt, and how the drawing had become a trademark. Unfortunately, although he did respond, Lucas refused to be quoted.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
|
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thread keeps on giving
if anything, it shows how important this chalk art really is to climbers. maybe that was his intention.
some of these posts make it seem he hurt or slandered somebody. easy with the lynch mob. sheesh.
hang in there james :)
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I remember when RR chopped the bolts on the Harding route "wall of the early morning light" - back then I tried to figure out the logic of increasing the size of a physical scar that will never heal to satisfy a sense of personal superiority and or ego.
It wasn't about superiority or ego. I think RR planned to chop it to say there is limit to what is acceptable to get up a climb, saying you shouldn't just bolt your way up an unnatural line. But of course part way up it he STOPPED chopping, because he realized there was some inspired climbing on it. That climb serves as a great lesson to all of us, not because it got chopped, but because Royal realized he should STOP chopping it and had the courage to admit he was wrong.
Too bad the Wings of Steel choppers didn't try to climb it first, they probably would have learned the same lesson and wouldn't have done the things they regretted later.
Edit: or another lesson in here, if you have to do something under the cover of darkness you're probably going to regret it later.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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I posted this elsewhere but it seems apropos all of a sudden:
Look. I think we’re all in agreement that every new boulder problem does not demand eternal memorialization in any medium, chalk included. We have also come to a place where every new big-wall route does not demand a bolt ladder to the summit, a la’ Harding, or stringing miles of fixed rope on huge alpine faces (OK, if you’re Russian, we’ll talk). But allowances can be made for circumstance. Harding gets a pass because he was the first one up the Captain. Hillary gets a pass on the sieging thing for being the first one up Mt. Whatsitscluster. And the lightning bolt is an expression of a particular, game-changing, time and place. That time has passed, but it continues to inspire.
The guys who climbed the Lightning (and I am not one, not even close) chose to memorialize this particular pebble-wrassle because they knew it was special. They didn’t do it again. Leave it alone, and find a better way to draw attention to your blog.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
|
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#emoclimberkneejerkreactions
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jfailing
Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
|
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if anything, it shows how important this chalk art really is to climbers. maybe that was his intention.
James may just have well photoshopped the entire thing. The result would have been the same (at least initially) - the point being that the bolt is still there. I know that it stings so much for people because someone personally erased it, but why so much anger? Was the bolt he erased not just an copy of the long-gone original?
Many of the responses from folks have been sort of disgusting - is there really so much hatred in the climbing community?
I say let's hear from some of the previous erasers for their two cents...
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slobmonster
Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
|
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It seems that I am with James on this one.
As the "Bolt" in question is a piece of artwork, or a graffito, or a talisman, or a memorial marque, or simply just too much chalk, it is regardless an ephemeral symbol. Its (brief) "removal" seems to be a thought experiment for y'all and us all to consider what matters, and why.
We bitch and bitch and fight internet hardman style over many silly things. This might take the silly cake. Save your energies for expanding camping options in Yosemite and the NPS system in general, access to climbing sites that are threatened, and the solace you might find in the Wild.
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orle
climber
|
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Its (brief) "removal" seems to be a thought experiment for y'all and us all to consider what matters, and why.
Then wouldn't it seem from 'thought experiment' that such a symbol DOES indeed matter for many folk, for many different reasons? Wouldn't that be the result from the experiment, y'know, from the data he gathered from his subjects?
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
|
Orle-
I never refused to be quoted by Chris Parker, who wrote the Rock & Ice article.
"You can quote me if I can see the essay before it's published. " I emailed Parker. I was worried about being lambasted by the peanut gallery. Unfortunately, that's impossible to escape.
Parker responded, "Okay. You can see the essay when it's published on Tuesday.... Sorry but that's a no go."
Brendan Leonard quoted me in his article on Adventure Journal
Anyway, it's hailing in Yosemite at the moment.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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"Peanut gallery"
From Wikipedia
A peanut gallery was, in the days of vaudeville, a nickname for the cheapest (and ostensibly rowdiest) seats in the theater, the occupants of which were all too willing (in the view of the performer) to heckle.
Hang in there James! Maybe I'll climb with you again some day. Don't get too fat from all the peanuts (or pies).
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nateflink
Trad climber
St Paul
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May 10, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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I'll probably never send Midnight Lightning, (or even get close to it.) It still holds my imagination, inexplicably. Perhaps it is because routes are more than random formations of rock. Perhaps it is because climbing routes are the aftermath of some worthy souls' artistic expression, and everything that surrounds it.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
|
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May 11, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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So James literary masturbation is now called "a thought experiment", while everyone else is just bitching.
The "experiment" was an epic fail.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
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May 11, 2013 - 01:51am PT
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We don’t see things as they are, we see them as we are. — Anaïs Nin
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MisterE
Social climber
|
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May 11, 2013 - 02:08am PT
|
From a purely "marked climbs" perspective, I can maybe see a way through this - for consistency's sake. There are climbing areas in the world that have the climbs marked: in stone, in paint, with obscure denotations only decipherable by the locals, etc.
Yosemite has almost no physical denotation of routes or boulder problems to identify them as such. Midnight Lightning is the glaring exception - nay, the outstanding icon in a clean sweep of the base of any of the many climbs and boulder problems in the valley. Name another clearly-marked human-created sign, and chances are: it is not nearly as well-known as the lightning bolt.
So. yeah - an equalization of the norm, if you will. But Ron Kauk or Kurt Smith are the stronger candidates for the job, if it is to be done.
It's out of your pay-grade, James.
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splitter
Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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May 11, 2013 - 02:19am PT
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Crazy world. People get shot just about every day for crossing out somebody else graffiti here in Amurica. James seems to be still kicking, so I guess that wasn't the case with him. At least somebody didn't come along with a stone masons saw and cut it out and sell it on the black market, or whatever. Like they did over on the eastside to the 3,000+ year old petroglyphs. That/those d00ds should be shot.
I ain't gonna say anything about it one way or another. Already got enough peeps on this site that wanna kick my ass or worse. And I suspect at least half of the international climbing community probably wanna do likewise. But at least I got the Sherpa on my side (i think). I usually side with the underdog, but in this case, it all boils down to respect. Kinda like the Sherpa thread, in a way. Mo'Nature decides to rub it out, well, nobody can argue with her. But, I was around back in the day. I had plenty of opportunity to go hang on the lower holds, or whatever, but, never did. Not sure why I didn't, maybe it was just respect!
edit: Matt - Dunno, but me thinks that even Mo'Nature is purdy pissed about this, bro! It was pretty much her prerogative, if it stays or if it goes, until James came along! ...ya just don't f*#k wit Mo'Nature! ;)
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Matt
Trad climber
it's all turtles, all the way dooowwwwwnn!!!!!
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May 11, 2013 - 04:18am PT
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honestly, the only thing i could less of a sh#t about than lucas removing some chalk from some rock is what everyone else thinks about lucas removing some chalk from some rock.
obviously the chalk can go right back up.
obviously lucas knew the chalk could go right back up.
you guys are like the nancy grace of the climbing world.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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May 11, 2013 - 11:09am PT
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Erased the lightning bolt?
James is going to have to spend a couple of years giving free blow jobs at bus stops in order to get back some of his self esteem.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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May 11, 2013 - 11:12am PT
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Is that how you got yours back? Or are you still cruising those bus stops?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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May 11, 2013 - 11:33am PT
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I try to be a pretty environmentally-conscious person (hit and miss...good intentions), and deplore graffiti and litter. This somehow feels different to me (can't really logically say why), and I'm still confused as to why you decided--unilaterally--what the bolt does and doesn't mean on behalf of the climbing community. Personally, I'm sad that you did what you did.
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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May 11, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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May 11, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
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Is that how you got yours back?
How did you know? Did I service you??
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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May 11, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
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James,
You trolled the entire climbing community by erasing some chalk. So much butthurt.
You sir, are the king of trolls.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
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May 12, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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james.
brilliance is just down that inviting channel.
you are poking pretty agressively at it's hymen,
though you seem to lack the intellectual rigidity
to penetrate beyond.
your struggle is real, and common across pen's
everywhere.
you cheaply harvested the sharp and chalky
icon down and right of midnight's exit move.
now you are stabbing at reality's tight membrane
with your newly wielded sword, attempting to
fake your way into the domain of a hero's gestation.
keep trying, boy.
these cowardly shortcuts will always lead you down
the wrong hall.
and until you rip the condom off of
your limp mind,
your aspirations will never produce offspring.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 12, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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+infinity weege!
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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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May 12, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
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A blog post about a blog post, of course said blog post agreeing with earlier blog post. Just a bunch of bloggin bouldering babblers...
I find it weak that James does something as ridiculous as washing off midnight lightning bolt, posts in his blog about it, throws a link immediately to supertopo and then does not respond or explain himself properly. What gives James, seriously? Don't you feel any shame in removing it? Sure its been removed before, but by the gods (weather). Are you comparing yourself to a god? I think your being a dramatic little diva and whatever image you were looking to create through this endeavour has surely gone tits up.
And then when the first ascentionist asks him about it, he babbles on like a moron and Kauk couldn't make any sense of it.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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May 12, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
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One of Norwegian's better poems. ^^^
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slobmonster
Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
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May 12, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
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Peter Beal (above) gets it.
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mountainlion
Trad climber
California
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May 14, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
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hard to beat Weeg's take!! ^^
Thought about starting a blog just about that post...Seriously
If you don't/can't send like Bachar, Reardon, Osman, Gullich, Edlinger, Potter, and Honnold...Guess what your just like the rest of us and don't deserve to have a blog unless it is about "the ordinary average JAMES climber"
Your ticket that said "failure to crush" should have cited you for "failure to dream" as well
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Ari
Trad climber
california
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May 16, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
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That's messed up! The bolt being there didn't bother Anyone except you, and for those of us who have lived in Yosemite, it is (or WAS) a part of the climbing history. What made you think you had the right to do that?? Of course you erased it in the middle of the night because a ton of people would have yelled at you otherwise. Leave public things alone, they're not yours to change regardless of your opinion about them. I wouldn't brag about this next time you're in the valley or anytime you're around climbers, you've definitely pissed a lot of people off.
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Da-Veed
Big Wall climber
Bend Oregon
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May 16, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
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I must say it is quite self serving to have erased this, even if it had been redrawn many times. I myself loved being there next to the bolt the first time I was in The Valley. It drew a connection with the past generations to the present. I have respect for that.
I suggest you, James, show up during peak climbing season, hang out on the bridge and start bragging about how you took it upon yourself to scrub off the lighting bolt. See what kind of reaction you get in person not on your interwebblog!
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couchmaster
climber
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Jan 16, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
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I bet that in this time frame James has climbed many more pitches than the thread has posts. Which tells us what? Hint, I don't think it's necessarily that people need to post more:-)
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