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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 15, 2006 - 12:47pm PT
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Props and congrats to ya both.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
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They finally got married???
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Loomis
climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
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Mr. Nay, what'd they do?
Ha ha Russ!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2006 - 01:11pm PT
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I should probably let Bill post up about it since E doesn't post up all that often. But they ticked a Captain route that has been on their list for quite some time.
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Loomis
climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
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Jun 15, 2006 - 01:25pm PT
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Good for them!
Congrats guys, hope you had a killer time!
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jun 15, 2006 - 01:46pm PT
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Congrats guys, can't wait to hear about it.
Karen & Bill
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 02:07pm PT
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Ay. They knocked off the Sea of Dreams. I was watching them up on Bull Dyke, Price is Light and the Space Station the other day. Cybele was looking for a bit of exercise, so she rapped down to them with a "CARE package" when they were still a couple pitches from the summit.
How's that for service.
Congrats, dudes. Sorry I missed you. Hope Bill didn't get fired for being late!
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Jun 15, 2006 - 03:21pm PT
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PTPP wrote...Cybele was looking for a bit of exercise, so she rapped down to them with a "CARE package" when they were still a couple pitches from the summit...
So that's what aid is about. I've never aid climbed ;(
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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Ya know, dude, that was totally uncalled for. It was just a gesture of kindness for some friends who took a little longer than expected.
Definitely beer.
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jun 15, 2006 - 04:48pm PT
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Come on now Pete, if it is the same Cybele of old, she does have a certain 'big wall' reputation to uphold.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
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I've spent a month with her on the wall, over two two-week climbs. She's definitely a class act, a solid climber, and a lady all the way. What you write is patently untrue.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 15, 2006 - 11:00pm PT
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Thanks Pat! Yeah, that was a nice tick but I gotta say it was a bit too extreme to be truly fun. S.O.D. was my 25 different route on El Cap and by far the loosest and most dangerous. We topped out with 9 extra 1.5 L bottles of water and some food but Cybelle's middle of the night visitation was mind blowing. We're hangin' there at the top of the 2nd Peruvian Flakes pitch and a shout from above and a headlamp shining down was our first inkling that we had company.
I did get a nice reprimand from the head Librarian for being late but all is cool for now. I'm still at the library right now so I have to go but I'll post more later tonight.
Thanks to Pete & Cybelle for their help!
Levy
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 15, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
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Nice Job Lads,
Nothin' to be ashamed of whatsoever per the menage a bifteck.
Really, *nothing wrong with it*
Give my best to 'Old E.
Yours,
Libido
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funkness
climber
Ca.
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Jun 15, 2006 - 11:54pm PT
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Yep, nice going you guys!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 16, 2006 - 12:29am PT
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Good Job Men!!! I am envious.
But given the choice between 16 days of killer surf in Indonesia or toiling on a hard ElCap route, I am learning surf trips are alot of fun.
How many nights Bill? Show some photos.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 16, 2006 - 12:33am PT
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Dang! Twenty-fifth route is great! What's Eric's route count - it's over forty, isn't it?
The Sea has its loose bits, but I still think it's one of the finest on the Captain. Brilliant sustained climbing, it just keeps comin' at ya.
Nice send, boyz!
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 16, 2006 - 12:35am PT
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Proud.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jun 16, 2006 - 02:40am PT
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SKOAL!!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 16, 2006 - 01:44pm PT
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I'd have to compare it to an alpine climb in terms of commitment & objective danger. The Blue Room pitch is a 50' x50' x50' triangle of rock, like a downwards pointing stealth jet and is detached on most points. At the top of it you nail back right in a thin crack that takes LA's & leepers and the whole thing is vibrating as you hit the pins in. If it comes off, the whole show is descending to the ground at 32 fps with the team riding it down. Not one of my more enjoyable experiences on the Captain to be sure!
On the Price is Light pitch, there's a 30' x 60' flake that fell off some time ago and you have to go up a corner about 20' left of the belay by continuing out left along the Bulldyke. You can see Price's rivets in blank rock and fresh rock scars where the flake used to be.
On To the Tooth pitch, E found the whole edge of the crack peeling away from the rock and accidently knocked off a Ten Commandments sized tablet that could have doubled as a headstone.
I don't know for sure but I know 2 French guys from Chamonix did it in late 2003 but I don't know if it was climbed in '04 or '05 but many of the heads were rusty and not reliable. I took a daisy whipper on the Ace In Space pitch when a fixed head I'd bounce tested ripped on me. Luckily, I use 3 daisys on hard aid and was daisyed to the piece I was placing when the head pulled so I was stopped by the 2 daisies to either side of me(I was on the traversing part of the pitch)
It took us 9 1/2 days with the first 4 pitches fixed. We had cool, windy weather most of the time and only a little rain which hit us in the middle of the rappels. It sure sucks to carry a fat, wet rope down that weighs 25 lbs. The thing about S.O.D. was there were no easy pitches. Just about any pitch on it would have been the crux pitch on most other routes and it just kept coming at 'ya. Even the 5.7 pitch that leads to the Igloo was buster hard for the grade. I'm no Huber Brother or Tommy Caldwell but I'm no slouch on the free climbing either. The slot you have to negotiate to gain the Igloo was as hard as the Narrows of Steck Salathe. Your feet are swinging below helplessly while you try to wiggle into a slot that has some loose chockstones inside that you don't want to dislodge. I had to call for the free shoes and strip off my wall bandoleer and ascenders, cordelette, etc, just so I could fit in the slot. More like 5.9 +. Then there was the hauling. Hauling that pitch dislodged some huge rocks thazt I was certain were going to kill somebody on the ground. How lucky we were that nobody got hurt by the rocks that fell.
I'm sure glad to be down & I'll do more routes on the Captain but I thing I'm done with the Diorite routes. I'm gonna stick to the good rock from now on!
I'll try to post some pics later. We even lit off some fireworks on Big Sur and got good pics of the show.
Levy
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 16, 2006 - 01:50pm PT
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So you guys didn't get married???
(way to go fellahs... nice one)
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 17, 2006 - 10:30am PT
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Hey Bill show us a couple photos of the horror, I know you got some.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 17, 2006 - 11:13am PT
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How does that spooky Brando line go from Apocalypse Now?
"I saw a worm crawling along the edge of a razor"
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Juanito
Social climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 17, 2006 - 11:59am PT
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Nice job guys.
Mireles
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 17, 2006 - 11:59am PT
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E... just what is the deal with this shot????
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Jun 17, 2006 - 12:34pm PT
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Nice job, Eric and Bill. Do post some pics!
-Kate.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 17, 2006 - 01:50pm PT
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Ya Guys,
Post up some pics please.
Ok, while we are eagerly awaiting Your Pics of The Action,
I'll put up some shots of EE, one of our heroes.
Gotta find, em, pluck 'em, post'em first.
Hmm, let's see, Mussy, Werner, Yerian,...
Nope.
Dang, where's my E mugs...
Kripes!
Still no Pics of EE!
Wait: Hold Please, I know I Got'em...
'Gotta Dig Deep!
Righteous,
Here's E in the Wayback, at the Needles, Circa '82:
And E down at Trono Blanco, in like, '78:
And The NEW IMPROVED (same 'ole really) EE,
As we know and Love him TehDay:
Once Again,
Nice Job Boys.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 17, 2006 - 02:09pm PT
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You know in those older photos above, E looks a bit like John Holmes, at least from the waist up.
I climbed the Sea in 2001 and it is one of my all-time favourites, because it just keeps comin' at ya! Not really any "gimme" pitches on that route, eh? Maybe the Sea is one of those aid routes that doesn't get easier over time, but rather harder as the rock becomes more and more suspect. I remember the ten hook moves in a row below Bull Dike.
Great send, let's see the pix!
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cybele
Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
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Jun 17, 2006 - 05:54pm PT
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Ok, you know, not to spoil the fun, but ...Stage whisper: EE is just not who we think he is... (if he ever was)
Maybe when I become a good climber (when I grow up) somebody will want to be me, too!
;)
I edited here cause it was apparently inaccurate
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 17, 2006 - 06:07pm PT
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Everyone knows EE is Swellymon... play along.
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cybele
Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
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Jun 17, 2006 - 06:42pm PT
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Uh, that's nice to see.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 17, 2006 - 08:17pm PT
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Swelly, in your condition, who don't you bow down to???
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 18, 2006 - 12:19am PT
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"no more walls jeff..."
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 18, 2006 - 11:42am PT
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hahahaha! Nice one Tar... Was that some funny sh#t or what???
The kicker was, the "no more walls, Jeff...." More??? Like there was any!!! Just wait until he gets in that RV and heads west... there just might be more walls.....
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 18, 2006 - 12:11pm PT
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Nay and Moe
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2006 - 01:25pm PT
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BZZT, wrong-O boys, it's the Tip-son himself. Bow down before the great EEEEEEEEE.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 18, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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Bwahaha!! Comedian as well.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2006 - 05:10pm PT
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BWAAAHAAAA. ok so I lied
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 18, 2006 - 09:55pm PT
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E:
Black sheep of Clan 'Nardsen and our True Hero.
So it goes...
Levy, C'Mon babe, post up the images, you are no slacker either and we know you got the goods, so cut loose please.
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robman
climber
Wasangeles
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Jun 19, 2006 - 10:31am PT
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NICE NICE Job Guys!!!
and yeah please post some pics!!!
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cybele
Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
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Jun 19, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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You meant ME Sewellymon? Oh. :) I figured you meant someone else. Well, I don't mind compliments to myself ;)
I must apologize to you Tarbuster, cause as my post indicated, I previously thought it was you as EE. Every time "he" showed up, it was adjacent to your posts. We both thought it might be you until the latest bunch, pretty rudely inaccurate and incriminating -- and now vanished. The last spate demonstrated that it couldn't be you. Because one fact that WAS true you wouldn't have known about : a green plastic tequila bottle. Hmmm. Criminals always leave a clue, right?... Somebody in the know is the nefarious EE. And, no, not me. I didn't even know about a green bottle with fire water.
So, anyway, in response to the B.S. postings, like an antiparticle popping in from some other dimension, gone before it can be pinned down, measurable only by it's disturbance of a a vacuum, the REAL EE materializes... and how quickly the obnoxious posts were edited! Then true to form he cleverly slips off...erases the traces...never to be seen by most of the world... business quietly and successfully accomplished. Classy move E :)
I wonder how many people saw.
PS What's Clan 'Nardsen?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 19, 2006 - 05:35pm PT
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No apology necessary Cybele, as I was clueless to the bust reference. ('was nice to meet you at the JT reunion, if I have your ID correct BTW).
-Clan Nardsen, nothing more than churlish invective (boyish grab ass), you know, like black sheep of clan 'erickson or whatever paired to any of numerous nicknames we threw around 25 years ago.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 19, 2006 - 09:06pm PT
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While we are waiting, the real EE on the Dulldrills, Needles:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 19, 2006 - 09:18pm PT
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E on Atlantis, Needles:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 19, 2006 - 09:27pm PT
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E on 1st Pitch Lieback, Atlantis:
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 19, 2006 - 10:58pm PT
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Here is a few more of the E man.
He even climbs frozen water!
Murchison Fall Canadian Rockies
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funkness
climber
Ca.
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Jun 20, 2006 - 10:18am PT
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Levy.....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 20, 2006 - 10:51am PT
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Bill is my Hero too...
I once kicked him off my couch and out of the house for doing too many bongs with Pottenger, go figure, what a hypocrite I was!
We have presided over some silly times together, like the time I told Waugh he could put his proposed pulled out bolts of "my" route up his butt!
In fact, just about anyone I climbed with (or talked trash with) from the 70's or 80's who still pulls down hard is my hero.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 20, 2006 - 11:27am PT
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I signed up on photobucket & loaded some pics on it but I can't seem to figure out how to get them to show up here on S.T. What am I doing wrong? I tried to drag the images to this box but nothing happens. I tried to save the images as a desktop item but a dialog box cautioned me that it would do something that didn't soud right so I cancelled. What is the secret here?
Levy
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 20, 2006 - 11:37am PT
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Hey Bill,
check your email and see if that helps
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 12:30pm PT
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He can even be coaxed onto a bike from time to time.
Riding, or should I say, hoofing it on the backside of Mt. Gleason w/ Mari and Mo
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jun 20, 2006 - 06:46pm PT
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Congrats
Is E like one of the best all around climbers ever to come from southern Cal?
Onsites 5.12+, A5, WI6, and has summited an 8,000 meter peak.
If he got off the pipe, he could be a Patagonia climbing ambassador and give up his day job.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 20, 2006 - 11:05pm PT
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This has been going on for quite some time.
Dave Evans once said, "Hey I've been around and I can say E is one of the best thin face climbers in North America".
Well that's almost embarrasing to E I'm sure: so we used to trot that out for fun. But you started it AKDOG so I had to chime in.
Funny thing is, it was pretty close to the truth back in '78 when it was said.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 21, 2006 - 03:32am PT
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Here's E sniffing out a hook while cleaning the groovy arch pitch.
Blue Room Blues, E hanging on the loose tooth with big air below.
Here's looking across at E cleaning the Bulldyke pitch
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 21, 2006 - 03:58am PT
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One bivy we received an annoying drip from up high so we had to set up the fly at night.
A reachy hook on the False Ace In Space A3+ This is where the old RURP belay used to be.
Nice golden rock on the groovy arch
That's it for tonight.
Levy
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 21, 2006 - 04:20am PT
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Hook or Book:
Here's what I think is an original Bird Beak I cleaned on the last nailing pitch
Here I'm leading the real Ace In Space pitch, A4. You continue out the seam right and hook up the grey rock you see up & right.
Steel like rock up high on the Peruvian Flakes, out of the diorite now & back into granite.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2006 - 07:29am PT
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And look, there's our grizzled veteren now, boy I bet he's thinking, man I have been on this wall long enough.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 21, 2006 - 09:23am PT
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Nice Levy,
Great pictures, you guys are fukin rad!! Is that a fixed rope on the Hook or Book pich?
Nice pumpkin shirt. LOL!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 21, 2006 - 10:50am PT
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Tommy, thanks for the tips, now I got things figured out. Not a fixed rope on the Hook or Book. There's a horozontal hooking section that goes across the wall from a rivet to a section of 3 equalized heads where you hook for about 50 feet with no pro. I'm using a Stratos rope so it may look kinda fat. It also looks like I'm moving into an offwidth crack but that feature is hundreds of feet off to my right.
Levy
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 21, 2006 - 11:38am PT
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Wow.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 21, 2006 - 11:43am PT
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Way Teh Go Levy!
Posting Skills = Supertopo Thrills!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 21, 2006 - 11:44am PT
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Good stuff Levy!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 21, 2006 - 11:53am PT
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Free climbing onto Peregrene Pillar
Cybele's mignight visit
Fireworks on Big Sur
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 21, 2006 - 02:33pm PT
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Way to go! More pics please.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 21, 2006 - 04:10pm PT
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That's too funny! I don't remember getting burned though but maybe I was drunk on Tequila or something
Levy
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2006 - 05:29pm PT
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Here's another shot of the lovely Cybele, fresh off some El Cap adventure
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 21, 2006 - 09:24pm PT
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Yet another shot from high on the S.O.D.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 21, 2006 - 09:40pm PT
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Here's a look at the Don't Skate Mate pitch w/ E leading
More of the hooking at the top of Groovy Arch
This is called To the Tooth
and finally a shot of the Laura Scudders flake, A3.
Levy
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 21, 2006 - 11:46pm PT
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Forget the wall photos, er, I mean,
*Not that there's anything wrong with it*,
And it's fab fun takin' a peak at the big danger on SOD,
But is that upthread shot of Cybele not the Siren call or what?
sincerity, vulnerability, strength...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 21, 2006 - 11:54pm PT
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"Caught between Scylla & Charybdis" is more like it, I'm thinking. It is a good pic of Cybelle however. I'll post up some others gimme a few moments to get 'em into photobucket & I'll blow 'em on here.
[img]
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g56/lunarlevy/YOSTHINGS146.jpg[/img]{{/img}}
Some shots of the lady who visits climbers in the middle of the night, oh wait, isn't that what a succubus is?
Levy
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 23, 2006 - 10:44am PT
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I remember driving out the Suicide with E and we both were so psyched to climb we could barely stand it. That was 30 years ago and the old fart is still going strong. Same with Bill. Amazing to think they´ve stayed psyched this long. One of the great things is how much fun I´ve had with these guiys. A couple years ago Bill and I were involved in doing aome new routes in Malibu and on some obscure areas in the Santa Monica mountains. These were piss ant little routes on absolutely garbage rock (remember Mt. Olympus?? Just a giantic dirt clod). But Bill was still so psyched we could barely keep him tied down. So we´d do the routes with all the likely subjects (Katz, Oliphant, et al) and then those jokers would smoke like 100 pipeloads and climb everything five more times for good measure and tell jokes all the way out on the hike.
There´s a lot of love for just being alive in all of this, and that´s a good thing.
JL
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Jun 23, 2006 - 12:29pm PT
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I was just waitin' for the right instant to chime in; thanks Largo. This seems to be it.
Eric, has been one of the big brothers and mentors I often think about in stressful moments. What would the great E do now? Probably load up a big bowl and do what has to be done.
As for this face (as was mentioned before), Mr. E has amazingly gotten better by the year. I quite remember my first visit to Suicide the morning after our White Maiden epic, though we were a bunch of geeks, he warmly took me up a host of routes like Arcy Farcy etc. Then a few years later, while I suffering from a high school breakup with a girlfriend, Eric hauled to to Tuolomne to clear my head. Boy E, Golden Bars, Fort Knox and Handbook sure seemed hard back then!
I quite remember E's ability to eat a hamburger in record time. By the time I had my wrapper open, he had the entire slab in his mouth and masticated it down. Of course neither of us eat such junkfood these days.
Levy and Cybele are way cool too.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 24, 2006 - 01:45am PT
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E put me out on my first good 5.10 leads.
He'd usually hand me a diet rack, and the number six stopper was key.
I recall some left slanting 10A thin flake over by the drain pipe, leading to something much harder which E floated on lead...
Would that be Caliente?
Whutever, that was next...
Thanks E for the Good Times!
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Gene
climber
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Bump from the Beta files
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I just re-read some of the things Bill wrote. Nice to hear that someone with his experience [at the time, 25 different El cap routes] still found it stiff.
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Double D
climber
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Nice pics and writing Bill. It's good to know that this isn't a walk in the park laced with bail-out bolts after all these years.
It's interesting to hear about all the scary, loose stuff, I remember some mammoth trundles (the "Z rurp" pitch...leading to the rurp belay and the original 9-5 pitch) but a lot of the stuff was avoided on the 1st ascent like the pitch after the Laura Scudder flake which we originally rated A3 because it was pretty solid rurps leading to good hooks to avoid all the loose stuff. I heard horror stories from a couple of second ascent attempts about that pitch and never could figure why they just didn't hook around it.
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Scoop
Mountain climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 28, 2011 - 02:36pm PT
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Wow! Those are some of the west wall photos I have seen in a while. Thanks for sharing. What a route! Yikes!
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