Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 56 of total 56 in this topic |
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2013 - 08:06am PT
|
Spain is one of the more mountainous european countries, with very stable climate.
Main altitude of the State in Canary Islands (Teide 3.718m.).
Main altitude of the peninsula in Sierra Nevada (Mulhacén 3.480m.).
Main altitude of the Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos (Almanzor 2.592m.).
Rock in summer/winter and ice only in the winter.
I´ll leave here photos and info... maybe you should be interested for a holidays future... or simply like to see them.
Sierra de Gredos is about 150km. from Madrid.
Comments welcome.
Sierra de Gredos. Galayos... granit, 100/300m.
Sierra de Gredos. Torozo... granit, 100!300m.
|
|
ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2013 - 10:56am PT
|
Thanks Carlos. That's very pretty rock. How close is it to La Pedriza?
Spain has wonderful climbing and weather, as you say. I have climbed at La Pedriza, Riglos, Picos de Europa, Montserrat, Penon, Sella, and El Chorro, among others. All were tremendous.
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 11:25am PT
|
Hello, ddriver... la Pedriza belongs to the Sistema Central mountains as Sierra de Gredos.
Pedriza is about 45km. from Madrid and Sierra de Gredos about 100km. from Pedriza... it is usual to travel by car to Gredos just one day and climb... time enough without hurries.
¡Ah!... I saw your photos... Naranjo de Bulnes west classic face... very good.
La Pedriza is considered as one of the best friction climbing area... more than 3.000 routes.
Best regards.
|
|
mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:25am PT
|
Mas por favor.
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
|
mrtropy...
Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos... Galayos... "El Torreón".
Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos... Galayos... "Aguja Negra y Aguja Amezúa"
... climbing...
... and abseiling...
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
|
Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos... Pico Almanzor.
200m. ... rock in summer up to 6B. Ice and mixed climbing in winter up to M6 and AI4+.
Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos... Pico Risco Moreno.
130m. ... rock in summer up to 7B.
Sistema Central... Sierra de Guadarrama... Pedriza area.
... +3.000 routes... up to 8C.
|
|
ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
|
Carlos, what is this guy in the middle named? How far from Manzanares el Real?
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 09:57am PT
|
Hello, ddriver.
The name of that guy is "El Pájaro" (the bird)... also called in maps "Pinganillo".
You have two ways from Manzanares el Real... in any case the meeting point would be the "Giner de los Ríos Hut"... from there you accede to a lot of climbs.
1)Walking from the village to "El Tranco"... and then to the hut (1 1/2 hours).
2)By car from the village to "Canto Cochino"... meeting point of climbers... and then to the hut (45 mn).
|
|
jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
|
|
Hey Carlos, I saw some photos of a stunning looking route at El Caputxí, somewhere in the north. I think the route was called Déjà Vu and there was some controversy over the bolts on it Have you been there?
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
^^^That "sierra," if one can call that extended ridgeline such, is looking like a perfectly nice traverse. Has anyone done all those summits in a day? Or less? It looks like a great challenge from here.
|
|
Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
Is there a website that contains information for this area?
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
|
Hello, Jaaan... you are well informed.
"El Caputxi" is in the Pyrenees (Pirineos)... frontier with France.
The route "Déjá Vu" was first descended and bolted. Of course there were problems with other climbers.
Nowadays most people climb it with "friends". If you do not use bolts... the second pitch has long runouts and the last one should be impossible to protect... the rest is OK.
It is considered as one of the best cracks in Spain.
Another place from the Pyrenees... "Ordesa Valley"... "Tozal del Mallo"...
Mouse... really it shall be a good climb. You will have to climb a lot of peaks.
There are more peaks to the left... so it will be a very, very long day... walking, climbing and abseiling.
A view from the other side... from the village of Manzanares el Real... with the peak "El Yelmo".
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
|
|
I am trying to convince my husband that we should go to Spain and spend a few months. I think this thread could help persuade him!
|
|
hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
|
|
I spent 12 days in Andalusia a few years back. El Chorro was cool, too cool to climb though.
Really want to go back and spend a couple of months in Spain, maybe never come home.
Awesome thread.
|
|
Sredni Vashtar
Social climber
The coastal redwoods
|
|
great post, you have some great mountains in Spain from vall de nuria to Mount Teide. Andalucia reminds me a lot of So Cal. I was just telling a friend he was to check out the lunar landscape of Mount Teides Caldera, with its wind sculpted esoteria and general weirdness
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
|
Hello, Grippa... you can find lot of info of Pedriza and other areas in here... http://www.viaclasica.com/index.php... look for "el foro" and you will see.
Phylp... stable weather in Spain... and good food/wines... come here.
Marlow... thank you very much for your help.
hossjulia... if you decide not to return... do not worry about it, will be good received.
Sredni... Teide is an easy peak but long way... some people walk from the sea... ufff...
In the "Cordillera Cantabrica"·(see map above)... "Picos de Europa"... "Naranjo de Bulnes"... 500m.
In "Pyrenees" ... "Sierra Partacua"... "Telera"... 700m. fantastic mixed terrain for winter.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Thanks for sharing your Spanish gold with us!
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
|
Thank you, Steve.... a pleasure to share with you all.
Some more landscapes of Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos.
Peak..."El Fraile"... very good rock climbing... in wild terrain... 90/120m... up to 8A.
Peaks... "El Durazno" and "Casqueruela"... wild, wild... 200/250m.... up to 6C+.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
|
|
Carlos - I WILL come to Spain! It may take a year before I can come, but I want to visit very much. Please keep your email link to your supertopo account active so people can get in touch with you in the future.
Phyl
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
Had no idea Spain had this much good looking granite. All I ever see in images/films from Spain is the steep limestone that attracts Sharma etc. These areas look amazing. Thanks for posting up.
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
|
Phylp...please feel free to contact me in the future if any help you need.
Le_bruce... Spain has a tremendous potencial in rock climbing... I will try to show here some mountains, walls and landscapes in order people can know.
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
|
Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos... Villarejo... 150/250m.... up to 7C.
Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos... Galayos... 130m.... friction of low level up to 6B.
Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos... La Cabrillas... 50/140m.... up to 6C.
Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos... Peña Cabrera... 70/150m... up to 7C.
|
|
StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Great looking rock and formations!
Thanks for sharing Carlos!
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 08:59am PT
|
Thank you... StahlBro.
Pyrenees (Pirineos)... Valle de Ordesa...
Peak "El Gallinero"...
... climbers... sorry for quality photo...
|
|
hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
|
|
Hope you don't mind Carlos, here are some shots of El Chorro from my trip in '05.
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
That is some very pretty stone. Thanks for posting.
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 09:54am PT
|
Perfect, hossjulia... thank you for contribution.
Nice place "El Chorro"... with the "Caminito del Rey" (King´s path)... and lot of climbs.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
Wow, great info!
From the Confessions of Aleister Crowley, "About fifty kilometres from Madrid we passed a magnificent range of rocks. The smiling fertile valley does not count; it is the naked rugged aspiration of the grim granite that leaves its marks in the mind. It was for the peasants to think of their fields and see nothing of the universe but their crops and the coins which they hoarded at harvest, only to pass into the pouch of the priest and pay for a parcel of earth in which they might conceal their carcases from the eye of the vulture."
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
|
Sistema Central... Sierra de Guadarrama... Pedriza (this photo just a view of the hillside in front of the hut).
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2013 - 11:14am PT
|
Pyrenees (Pirineos)... Riglos... conglomerate rock...
... "Mallo Fire"...
... very usual traditional belays... uffffff...
|
|
ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 11:20am PT
|
Keep bringing it Carlos, great stuff and much appreciated. Look forward to more time in Spain. Right, Brian?
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
|
¡Sí mi amigo!
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
|
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2013 - 06:15am PT
|
Thanks... ddriver and Brian...
... some more from Montserrat area... "Cavall Bernat"
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2013 - 09:14am PT
|
Thank you, Delhi Dog... after climbing... a suggestion to eat something to recover and be strong next day...
... mmmm... time to eat in Spain... see you later...
|
|
ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 - 11:19am PT
|
que bonita esa cocina para bomberos
Carlos, is there any good climbing near Granada? :)
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 - 11:24am PT
|
This is making me hungry
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
|
Riglos! Yo quiero!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
|
Such a beautifull country and about the only one in Western Europe i haven't been to....need to change that!
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
|
Jim, you got a good enough vowel to consonant ratio in your last name I'm sure they'd accept you as a long lost brother..
Ahh...the food and drink...yeah...
ddriver...bring that La Pedriza guidebook along with...(I'll try to round up my French guidebooks that are out on loan)...
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
|
Thanks, Kennyt, Munge, Dingus, Brian... you will be welcome.
Donini... ¿never in Spain?... mmm... you must try.
ddriver... some photos near Granada...
"Los Cahorros"... 120m. mainly bolted climbs...
"Los Vados"... up to 300m. ... bolted and traditional climbs...
Sierra Nevada... "Pico Veleta"... north face... up to 250m. ... summer or better in winter... mixed terrain... hard climbs.
Sierra Nevada... "Pico Alcazaba" and "Pico Mulhacén"... north faces... traditional climbs up to 800m. Mainly in winter.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
|
Great info, Carlos!
That Sierra de Gredos/Galayos area looks neat.
Say...if a person only has a few days on a trip to Madrid, say, in mid May, how 'bout a hit list in case the weather isn't too rainy. 6a (obl) and under, ahem, for me.
La Pedriza, La Cabrera, and the Galayos.
Where would/could/should one base out of (with rental car) nearby? Manzanares el Real, La Cabrera, Cercedilla (climbing area within walking distance from town?) or?? Wouldn't need to camp if inexpensive lodging is available...
I have a Madrid guidebook and have peeked on line a bit, but, info on easy to moderate classics is kinda hard to come by.
Any info appreciated!!
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
|
... this is for ddriver...
... and now I go with Brian...
1) La Cabrera and Pedriza are about 50/60km from Madrid... Galayos is about 150km.
2) If you hire a car in a, for example 8/10 days, you can climb without problems in a round trip. I suggest first La Cabrera (village is La Cabrera), then La Pedriza (village is Manzanares el Real) and last Galayos (village is Guisando), unless you decide other thing (no problem).
3)La Cabrera and Galayos are "usual granite"... cracks, etc. but Pedriza needs "special feeling"... it is friction and, except for modern bolted routes... you will find long runouts (obl) for example in "El Yelmo".
4)There are campings in these three places... and you can bivouac without problem in the mountain (NO TENT ALLOWED). You have a hut in Pedriza (Giner de los Ríos) and Galayos (Victory)... both in front of walls.
5)Recommended routes in La Cabrera... are in Pico de la Miel (main wall)... named "Diedro Loquillo" 6A+... "Espolón Manolín" V+... and in Aguja sin nombre "Diedro Deportiva" 6A... you can find info in this link:
http://escaladorescabrera.blogspot.com.es/p/croquis.html
6)Recomended routes in La Pedriza... in El Pájaro "Este" 6A... in El Pájaro "Sur" 6A/A1 or 6C... in El Pájaro "Oeste" 6A/A0 or 6C. In El Yelmo "Sirocco" 6A/A0 or 7A... in El Yelmo "Guirles/Campos" 6B... in El Yelmo "Esteban Altieri" V+. In El Hueso "Fulgencio" 6A.
These should be the more classic peaks and climbs... but you have more than 3000 lines.
From the parking in Canto Cochino or El Tranco... you have about 1 hour to the Giner de los Rios hut... best place to get El Pajaro and El Hueso. You can reach El Yelmo from El Tranco or Canto Cochino (about 1 1/2h. walking).
A link where you can find and discharge more lines here (look for "croquis"):
http://www.viaclasica.com/
Map of Pedriza area...
Some routes:
7) Recomended routes in Galayos... in Torreón "Underground/Malagón" V+... in Torreón "Sur" V+... in Punta Maria Luisa "Rivas/Acuña"... in Punta Maria Luisa "Diedro Ayuso/Espías" V+/A1 or 6B... in Aguja Negra "Oeste" V+... in Punta Diaz Rubio "Los Malditos" 6A.
Once in the Victory hut you have all climbs in front of you... but to get there from the parking you have 2 hours walking up to the hut.
some routes:
Anyway the spanish climbers are very friendly... ask them for advice one in the place.
... uffff... to much work... I´m to have dinner...
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
|
Ahh...fantastic information, thank you!!
A tip of the Orujo to you!
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2013 - 05:09am PT
|
Thank you, Brian.
Pyrenees (Pirineos).
Pared de Cataluña... Pared de Aragón... Terradets... Roca Regina... four walls between 300/500m... lot of routes and very visited by climbers... magnific climbs...
|
|
Juank
Big Wall climber
Barcelona, Spain
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 04:09am PT
|
Next to El Caputxi, mentioned some posts before, you can find a route we open many many years ago, when we were young...we read the Meyers book of Yos and tried to emulate those fantastic climbers seen on pics...if you go to El Caputxi you can enjoy this climb as well as some other interesting lines in Agulles d'Amitges. Another interesting granit area not far from there is Cavallers
Enjoy it ¡¡
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
|
Thanks, Marlow.
Some more granit from Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos... Galayos.
*"Gran Galayo"
*"El Torreón"
*"El Águila".
*"Cresta de la Catedral".
... best regards...
|
|
Sparky
Trad climber
vagabond movin on
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
|
Best thread I've seen in awhile!!
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
|
Carlos - I WILL come to Spain!
Don't let go of that determination.
I've been to Spain several times, and would cheerfully move there tomorrow if I could. I've only climbed in Spain once, but it was wonderful. We spent most of a week at El Chorro. I'm told there are better places to climb in Spain, but it's hard to imagine.
Carlos can give us his opinion, but I loved the place. Couple of photos to provide a taste of what it's like.
Edit to add one more picture. Everyone knows the expression "the edge of town," but in Spain, it is somewhat more serious, as this shot of the western edge of the town of Ronda shows.
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
|
Carlos thanks for a great thread.
I'll be in Spain June 2014. Was going to head to France, guess I'll be staying in Spain.
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2013 - 06:20am PT
|
Thanks guys... as I told before, Spain is perfect for rock climbing... granit, limestones, etc.... and the weather is stable.
"El Chorro" is well known for foreign climbers... it is a good place with nice aprox. (the "camino del Rey" has been repaired and maybe you can not climb in some areas above it)... but if you prefer classic climbs in mountain, from V+ to 7B... the choose will be impressive.
Some more about Sistema Central... Sierra de Gredos in different areas...
*"Almanzor"
*"Torozo"
*"Galayos"... some view...
... and in our first climbing times in Sierra de Gredos... 1973.. boys dreaming to be alpinist...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 25, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
|
Por la Belleza...
|
|
| Messages 1 - 56 of total 56 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!