Discussion Topic |
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
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Ommmmmmmmmmmm
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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No it does not!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
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Crunch lies! LOL
:)
That's ok, say three Hail Sandstone Spires, and all will be well.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
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To climb (free solo) in your Adidas
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
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Anyone else climbed on the Rotwand? Steve that looks like Grand Junction, but then again there are lots of huge sandpiles out there.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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Rotwand looks thuggish
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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It's the crumbly part of Eldorado Canyon in Colorado.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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In the beginning, God created Choss. And verily, he saw that it was good.
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mhay
climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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ydpl8s, That photo takes me back to my Central Oregon days; TFJ, West ridge of Mt Washington, Jeff Park Glacier on Mt Jefferson. Gotta say I don't miss the volcanoes.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
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Yea, Mhay, when you're young and foolish you'll try just about anything to get the buzz.
Rotwand, ahhhhh, been there, done that, you should talk to SicMic on here. I think he holds the speed record and the number of ascents record for that wall.
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Red Wing
climber
Truckee
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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A big choss, big adventure. Love it!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
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U call that choss? Ho! :-)
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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Climbing something that is evolving right in front of you makes you feel so alive!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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To climb (free solo) in your Adidas
With no clothes on in cheese grater alley on Three Fingered Jack!
A big choss, big adventure. Love it!
Looks like Barad Dur to me man!! That shitz is BULLET PROOF!!!
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
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studies are underway to discover what makes sane people leave perfectly comfortable beds to bivy in the choss.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
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Indeed it does - there, now I've admitted it. I feel better.
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weezy
climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
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2200' of choss
wheeler peak...the eiger of nevada's great basin?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 24, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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3500' of choss...
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Jan 24, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
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We know more about the Moon and the Bottom of the Sea than we know about the choss. The next Golden Age of Exploration will be a race to the center of the Chossverse. I, along with my fellow choss loving bretheren, will be first in line to try and beat James Cameron in this last great race...
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Jan 24, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
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Dingus,
Those pictures of your cobblefest look anything but choss. They look like steep jug pulling sweetness!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 24, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
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Battlechoss Chosslactica!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 24, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
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errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr....wrong thread
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 24, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
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MORE CHOSS@!!@!
Wooohooooo!!!
Mung, post up the devils head!!
Mega choss fer sure
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 24, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Michelle
Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Jan 24, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
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You beat me too it Vit. What a pile.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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From the Sedona Climbing Guide release party:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 24, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
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See what you started Rob?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
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Yes, Dingus, yes.
I wanna tell you a little secret, being a chosser, is a lot like being in love. No one needs to tell you, you are in love, you just know it, through and through. Cobbles to brains.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
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Can ya see the alien pod where we hatch the chosslings from?
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jan 24, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Thanks Manny for introducing me to Arizona choss!
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 24, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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Nice thread!
Plaidman, paging Plaidman, please report to the choss room!
The title made me think of this:
"Dump it on everything, the Secret Aardvark compels you!!!!!"
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jan 24, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
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What's even better than choss? Offwidth and squeeze chimney choss!
There's a great place up to the left of Upper Yosemite Falls that has a chimney slightly wider than heel-toe, full-on granite ball bearings spraying off everything and granite plates filling up your underwear.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jan 24, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
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Nice Nutjob-that's cool you were in AZ climbing with Manny-looks like camelback choss to me, am I correct?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 24, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
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If you climb in Eldo long enough you'll perhaps realize you've negotiated quite a bit of choss in outstanding locations mixed in with mostly stellar rock. That's when the Rotwand begins to feel approachable, desirable, COMPELLING even. Having navigated four routes on that gem I can say it's a little bit like climbing FROM position of relative safety TO position of relative safety (mix/match & repeat), without much reliable protection along the way. Not that there's anything wrong with that ... See, the choss, BE ... the choss ... Just don't let it "set you free".
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 24, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
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Manny is THE choss-master BTW.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jan 24, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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Gal, yep that's Camelback right in the middle of Phoenix. I only had an afternoon after a training class in Phoenix a few years ago, and Manny gave me a gracious tour of fun stuff including his own creations. Or are they simply revelations of what hath been created already?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jan 24, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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The imposing north arete of Mt Lewis via the quartz band traverse:
Still awaiting its FA.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 24, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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must....climb.....choss.....
It is in the genes
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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Chossapalooza 2013!!!!! Be there or be smart!!! Just say no to solid holds!
No choss thread is complete without a nod to Top Hat BTW. Definitely a choice morsel not to be missed by the choss connoisseur.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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that looks chosstastic, JTM. (...be there or be smart-love it!)
Nutjob-well you definitely got out with the right person to show you around, yes he was showing you his creations... those climbs are great for a half day in town when you can't get away for too long-great routes and ever shifting/crumbling rock ;-)
Tarbuster-haha, good to keep in mind-don't let it "set you free", words of wisdom...
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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What the hell is wrong with us?
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Michelle
Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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I will now bomb your chossy blahblah with verbal choss.
Boo, Forever
Spinning like a ghost
on the bottom of a
top,
I'm haunted by all
the space that I
will live without
you.
Richard Brautigan
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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North face of Mt. Dana
Volcanic rock in Iceland
Lichen-covered conglomerate in New England BITD
Does this qualify? Denali
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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There is the other side of the coin too - where the rock is so slick and dense, that nobody wants a part of it. At least with choss, you figure to have good grip and alot of surface contact.
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
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If you live on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington you learn to love choss, because it keeps you in shape for everywhere else, increases your overall climbing mileage, plus it only takes 30 minutes or less to get there from the homestead and it is fun to climb once scrubbed and suitably sanitized.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
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Yes, BIOTCH-that is a true statement.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
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Like climbing on hard brown sugar
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
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Hardly, where's that Oly choss?
Mt Constance choss...
I know it isn't much of a line...
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:24am PT
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Reilly,
I'd tell ya but I'd hafta kill ya. Sandstone just downstream of lower Elwha dam site the tuff is west of Pt. Angeles along the straits.
P.S. I'd like to repeat yer line on Constance just can't walk that far anymore. Even tho it's only 5.9 I do not think any harder alpine free line has gone up in the Olympics since you did it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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Who is this Manny, and where are these conglo beeyoots!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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Who has the goods on Peshastin Pinnacles? They are pretty saucy-chossy.
Lemme see, 'been across the Martian Ridge, also done crawled up Dr. Leakey. Didn't have the jeans if you know what I mean, for Bomb Shelter, an overhanging sand romp free climbed by Henry Barber.
Or how about that stuff outside of Grand Junction that Duane Raleigh and Pete Takeda climbed with ice tools ... Suggested in crunch's earlier post.
All hail the BOSS CHOSS!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:36am PT
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Ah! The elusive Olympic Peninsula climbing area - finally!
HV hinted at this during our Smith Rock rendezvous, but to actually lay eyes upon it!
How long is the climbing season at that choss? Like 25 days a year?
;)
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:51am PT
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Hey Roy,
Peshastin pshtt... why climb on that sh#t when it is mostly bolted sandy slab climbin and there's all that nice granite nearby. However if its a rainy day up near Leavenworth both Vertigo and Empire State are worthy slightly overhanging cracks very out of the norm for Peshastin.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:52am PT
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Who is this Manny?...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:00am PT
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Peshastin pshtt... why climb on that sh#t when it is mostly bolted sandy slab climbin and there's all that nice granite nearby
ha ha. Because my darling, loose living has its rewards!
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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Mister E,
The tuff is probably dry 200+ days a year (forms a sharp ridge line in the forest so no dirt on top to hold water) so it dries within 2-3 days after a heavy storm and stays dry in showery periods. The sandstone April to late Ocrober good to go in any weather due to overhang.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:02am PT
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We got yer choss. Oh yes. Idaho is a Sea of Choss with pockets of World Class Stone.
Stupid Choss!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:04am PT
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Stupid Choss!
it's not stupid, it's nice - you just have to treat it gently. Like a woman.
Embrace the choss, caress the choss...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:08am PT
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Tim Messick, following the fourth class northwest ridge of Mount Maclure, on the way to Mount Lyell.
Like dancin' on dinner plates .... Yeah Baby!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:13am PT
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Gentle. Um, not so much. We tend to thrash.
It does get more solid when it's frozen.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:19am PT
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... Because choss is SEXY and chicks dig it!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:21am PT
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Hardly Visible: Who knew? And within 50 miles of one of the temperate rain-forests of the world...will wonders never cease?
CHOOSE THE CHOSS.
AVOID THE CROWDS.
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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Roy,
Yer partner might be too much of a distraction for me, prolly too much time on the boobs thread... But I'll see your choss and raise you by a couple of alpine seafloor scrapings.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 04:24am PT
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Mount Morrison. A partner of mine wanted to climb the Northeast Buttress. It looks beautiful from a distance but everyone I talked to who's climbed it (and they are few) said it's the scariest death climb they've ever been on. My friend Mark Wagner got on it and said it was one of the worst experiences of his life but that I needed to do it because the suffering would be an experience unequaled in all of climbing. He said leading it was like climbing hundreds of feet of giant broken dishes. But leading it was the safest way up because the belayer was the one risking life and limb as rockfall was a certainty. He climbed the crux and refused to go further as it looked grim above so he and his partner down climbed the route and bailed. Rapping was not an option.
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cowpoke
climber
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Jan 25, 2013 - 07:30am PT
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hi quality choss just a 15 minute stroll from the parking lot.
Some of my most satisfying and some of my most terrifying moments were on choss, with the former being in the Snowies of Wyo (above) and Norwegian choss and the latter being on that chimney approach to Broadway on Long's (uggh, falling rocks = bad).
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jan 25, 2013 - 10:02am PT
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Here is some good mixed choss from one of the masters, Raphael Slawinski.
Hard mixed choss and NO bolts.
http://vimeo.com/21932853
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Jan 25, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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This thread is fantastic!
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 10:35am PT
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Some fine NorCal Kitty Litter choss!
Tarbuster: I can't stop looking at your 1st choss picture. Was that painted on? That shirt is simply defying the laws of fabric... :)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:41am PT
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Was that painted on? Yes ... Handpainted with finger paints of course.
Mount Morrison!
No doubt the poster child of the whole thread.
Quote by Vern Clevenger: "Mount Morrison, [all it would take is] ... one well-placed cherry bomb ..."
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:41am PT
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My favorite choss "The Hand".
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:46am PT
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How bout 'thum Eastern Bloc kids whats climbs frozen vertical grass with ice tools!
Then there's the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado. 10,000 mi.² of choss:
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
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All this talk of choss is making me pine for Texas Canyon.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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The San Juans, oh yeah, been there, done lots of that, at least 2 or 3 in that last picture.
Here's another choss meister from that general area.
The infamous Chossmaster Bob Dickerson (of Gunnison fame) once told me (paraphrasing) "you just need to keep moving, if the hold falls off right after you leave it, well you were just helping Mother Nature's physical erosion a little bit"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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Cripes, at this stage of the game my entire BODY is choss.
... And it is neither powerful nor compelling. Ha!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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I've been by that thing YDS, on the "shortcut" from Ouray to Gunnison. It has a history as you know.
There is even more venerable choss to be ogled along the way. (See below).
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
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I think that chunky tower is called Chimney Rock? (Or is that the thing near Pagosa Springs) or both ...
Further along the dirt road heading toward Gunnison from Ouray one comes to Silver Jack Reservoir to encounter these magnificent conglomerate towers:
Similar stuff visible from Highway 50 bordering the northern shores of Curecanti reservoir.
Where ground-up (in both senses of the phrase) kitty litter lovin' hard mens and wymins go to die!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jan 25, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
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Yeah, that's Chimney Rock, we got there driving up the road from Cimmaron after directions from Jimmy Newberry. It's right near Turret Ridge and not too far from Coxcomb.
Here's another pic from that general area looking towards the giant choss Uncompahgre, from the top of Wetterhorn (which actually has some good rock on it). This pic was taken in the Fall of 72, the guy in the orange wind breaker is co-author of one of the Colorado mountain guides (can't remember the name of it) Gary Kocsis.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jan 25, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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From Munge's home territory...
Actually more solid than it looks (mostly):
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jan 25, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
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Somewhere near Highway 395... maybe en route to Bode from Mono Lake?
Buildering choss:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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The picture at the top of the page (knuclehead in blue pants & white helmet) is the Wetterhorn direct finish. Not all THAT loose.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 25, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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"Secrit" crag in Boulder Canyon:
Dbl rope tech advised:
Period footwear a plus:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
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yesh!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jan 25, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
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Tarbuster, I found the rotwand compelling for the same reason, its seems a route is "more trad" if its got loose rock on it. Well if you want to get gripped in Eldo there are lots of ways to do it. For some reason I was attracted by the idea that there's a big part of Eldo where no one climbs, didn't really think about why.
Once I was in the Adirondaks on a route, I dont remember the name but it was a kind of pillar made of detached broken blocks, probably 5.7 climbing but every single move and every gear placement was on disconnected blocks just stacked on each other. Definitely adds to the excitement of a route.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
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Yes, we begin to perceive the hazards differently. The mind becomes enriched through that process of penetrating through the outer layer of puzzle pieces and peeling them away, discrediting the unwanted holds and stances. Intuiting the safe passage: that's the name of the game and the fun of it! Choss is boss. User experience may vary.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
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Think about it: even the Bachar Yerian is ... uh ... Choss. It's well-known, (not that I'd know), that you must be keenly selective with the fragile knobs or the big ride is yours for the taking.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
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Intuiting the safe passage
Great name for a route!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 25, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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I found all manner of variants tooling around off piste in Eldorado Canyon. Concocted a direct variation of Yellow Spur requiring sling protection around a torso sized wing of rock hinging out of the crack. Sling it, check it and commit full body weight to it, hanging straight off the arms to reach a higher jam. Straightened the route out really nicely with two independent pitches mid-route. Did it a couple of times; once with Rob Slater. I told him I didn't think it should go in the guidebook. He disagreed.
Lots of other more insignificant straightening out of routes to be had on not so consolidated ground. Or just without protection. At the top of Outer Space, a variation which I believe is listed, you can just cut straight up and slightly right, without protection in shallow pockets. Being able to handle weird ground is the key to that kind of meandering activity. Creative freedom!
One day I heard the siren song and on-site soloed Roof Wall on Hotspur. Including the Erickson 5.10 undercling start. But that's not where the spice was. There be a fair amount of loose/flexi but navigable 5.8 rock in the midsection, topped by a semi-crunchy 5.9+ overhanging finger crack. Hotspur has got a few other B-list jewels. Like Northumberland crack, a semi-crunchy OW, no real wide gear necessary for the lead but probably seldom climbed. Or SunStar, an independent route with mixed quality just right of Hotspur, also sans cord for me on just another day out under the sun; I think it would protect okay, but not great. Either way it's pure adventure and the Choss somewhat defines it.
"Go where you want to go and do what you want to do." Nothing like mastery to keep the soul ticking along in the groove. Man that is good living when you are fully tuned and up for it!
[Disclaimer: soloing Choss is kind of doing it on the cheap. Wiggling in sporadic protection while passing over uncelebrated ground is a big part of the kick.]
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 02:11am PT
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whole boat loads...
Such pretty rock from afar. Enticing and dangerous to be sure.
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weezy
climber
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Jan 26, 2013 - 02:16am PT
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good from far...far from good.
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Michelle
Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Jan 26, 2013 - 02:17am PT
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I often succumb to the incredible shrinking crag issue.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 02:29am PT
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gangster...
mtnyoung pulled this one. There was exactly one move that was decent on it. The rest was meant for landfill.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jan 26, 2013 - 02:39am PT
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It's a miracle it got that pointy!! It's really black wood, not ebony though.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 03:16am PT
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oh yeah, that's the stuff!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 03:16am PT
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Hanksville?
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 26, 2013 - 10:01am PT
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Holy crap Munge. Those last photos...hard to believe you lived to post them.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 26, 2013 - 10:58am PT
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Nutjob,
Looks like some rocks just north of Bridgeport on 395, I forget the name of the pass.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
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and Dingus, how was kferry? (or the brakes?)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 26, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
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Outstanding cardboard rock you've been tinkering with Munge Man!
There there Munge ... Why don't you come inside for a little while so we can get you the help you need! Ha ha. Here Kitty Kitty.
East Buttress, Lower Middle Cathedral.
We've had some good discussions about the route; Fissure Beck, Bachar's on-site solo and so forth. The upper third of that route, and bits and pieces of it along the way are pretty darn Chossy. Nonetheless, it's near the top of my list for B grade classics.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
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hahaha, the latest discussions have centered around Monty Python and the peasants "There's some lovely filth over here"
lol
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 26, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
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Here's some choss to die for, and you might if you go there!* ...jess sayin'
*I think this is Mali - LOL!
I could ask Marsel if yer interested in dying early.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
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Now that's some crazy blocs!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jan 26, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
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Wow, I like that Mali shot. To look at anyway.
Yes Munge, the mega....something....Long Dong Silver.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 02:08am PT
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Dave,
Here's the pic Gordo posted on an earlier thread of that thing...
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jan 27, 2013 - 02:55am PT
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Dayummn Reilly, yes i'm interested in dying early, that shot is something else!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 04:54am PT
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Mr. Mud doing his thing on the first pitch of Peregrine
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 27, 2013 - 07:56am PT
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It ain't no Red Rocks sandstone!
Chosstastic Sedona, Arizona:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 27, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
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Kastraki Tower Meteora, Greece.
The rock is a conglomerate, so it can vary from Pinnacles-like quality to occasionally rival that of Tuolumne.
Developed under a strict ground-up ethic by Dieter Hasse.
This route was something like five or six pitches. Bigger than it looks in the picture for sure! The first pitch, 5.10 stemming and chimney against walls with nearly the consistency of dirt, but more like frozen dirt, so not quite that bad.
At the 5.10 OW crux, the rock is a bit flakey and littered with pokey crystalline shaped knobs.
Still, one of the more novel climbs of memory!
A bit on the Chossy side and also a powerful line to be sure.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
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^^^ yep, what Skully said. gah!
So want to go there.
My list of EU destinations that I want to go to...
Elbsandstein
Meteora
Gritstone (again)
Kalymnos
Dolomites
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 27, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
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the king of choss in cali. do a drive by.
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SicMic
climber
two miles from Eldorado
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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Gotta throw a vote for Monte Paterno in the Dolomites. Pretty ugly. The Lions Head formation in Eagle is vertical dirt maintaining a disquise. I'll load up a few shots of the craptasm that is the Rotwand.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 10:43am PT
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Dolomites!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 28, 2013 - 11:26am PT
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the king of choss in cali.
hey, what about Mt. Dana?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
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Action GOMZ firing...
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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concur.....The Hand.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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what on earth is that?
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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OH SCHIST!
My subconscious-mind had made me avoid looking at this thread until tonight.
and then I did.
Please appreciate that I am in recovery from being:
A CHOSS-ADDICT!
This is all very difficult for me.
Thank you for your great photos & stories.
SCHIST!
I'm going to have nightmares again, tonight!
It's been many sleepless nights, since that trip to the Hayes Range in Alaska in 1976.
A little wine helps, at bedtime.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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worthy post there Fritz.
we're here for you.
post away, if it helps... :)
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MisterE
Social climber
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The "belayer slayer" pitch on Der Dihedral FA - a variation on Dragontail Peak in the North Cascades (Leavenworth area)...I was the belayer, Mike is the delicate leader. The loose tooth is below him.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 12:45am PT
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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I may be "in recovery" from being a "choss-addict"------but we can't let this thread be lost!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Munge!
You must admit Fritz' be taking the cake with that one. (That is some hideous Choss Fritz!).
Door prize?
Does he get first pick out of the box of Krispy Kreme's or what?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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In the late 80s I was scoping out potential south of dreamers (pocketopia etc) on Sherwin Plateau. I found a new grotto down there, and got half way up this nice line when the hold comes off and hits me in the face. I was kinda worried about how much it was gonna bleed, but safely rode my bike back home to Sunny Slopes.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Fritz's Sawtooth photo definitely gets the krispy cream.
Holy crap.. that thing looks like a giant house of cards built out of stone guillotines ready to collapse the minute the wind changes direction.
Chosstopia indeed ...
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Mmmmm, choss.
Lots of choss in Newfoundland.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Froodish paged me earlier in this thread.
Plaidman, paging Plaidman, please report to the choss room!
I deem that this Choss thread must be commented on as I am an official choss monster of the highest degree.
Locally we have a wall we call the Shite Wall. It is choss that we are compelled to keep secret so that no one steals this mountain of choss from us.
I have met others of us that really find choss quit challenging and enjoy it after the fact.
CHOSS MONSTERS UNITE!!!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 11:05am PT
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Edge, cool rock.
plaidman, YESH!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 11:06am PT
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Fritz, datz a good one!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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I play my part
and I play my game
I give choss, a good name
good name
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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When I get home I will post another issue of Moss and Choss
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
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How much for a subscription?
I already got 'issues'
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Sometimes the choss fights back.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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^^^^^^^Helmets are made for that sort of thing!^^^^
Is this guy going for a Darwin Award?
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Here is the latest issue.
I have lots of issues for sure.
Luckily I have faithful belay slaves. Sometimes I call them climbing partners. I did offer to give one of the leads to my partner last time we were on a chossy project. He declined.
The issues of Moss and Choss are priceless.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
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LOL, awesome!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Munge get me a photo and I will get you in the next issue.
Maybe we can get on something really loose and crappy and scare the bjesus out of ourselves. I have a few projects in mind.
Plaid
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Plaidman! I am impressed with your obvious mastery of
Choss & Moss.
However----back to the Choss-state, Idaho.
The ROTTEN MONOLITH is composed entirely of granite that is easily confused with sand.
The well-known authority of choss, F. Beckey mentions his 1961 ascent, in the list of ascents, in his first bio-book "Challenge of The North Cascades."
Clutched up edge of very scary rotten flake.
In the era of pitons, nervous leaders on the Rotten Monolith could beat pitons directly into the decomposing granite whenever they needed psychological assurance.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Fritz with all due respect I think we in Oregon can out Choss you there in Idaho. At least you guys have City of Rocks and some other awesome granite. So I regrettably have to inform you that because Idaho is in possession of some stellar granite that it is disqualified from being the Choss State.
Oregon on the other hand has no granite to speak of, and we are uniquely qualified and maybe over qualified to be known (or branded) the consummate State of Choss.
Just look at this monster:
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Plaidman! I would surrender to your mastery of:
MOSS AND CHOSS!
and let you cite Oregon as:
THE CHOSS STATE OF THE STATE!
but, even though we don't have the moss
PRAISE JESUS! WE GOTS DE CHOSS!
There is not a single solid rock on the horribly mis-named El Capitan in the Sawtooth Mountains.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Future sport wall?
Hoz, man. That is some steep choss.
The weremouse and black lassie meet trogdor.
Practice in seeing just how bad anchors can be
Making Oregon look solid since the end of the LIA
When granite goes bad.
I don't have any pics of the bad stuff on Plinth because rockfall smashed my camera while I was trying to take a photo of the choss. F*#king paparazzi!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Maybe I can get my wife the Empress of Adventure to Knight me as Sir Choss-a-lot. I may have to do some kind of service for that high honor.
Here is another photo of a pile of choss called Dog Mountain Spine:
It took me three tries to get up to Dog Rock. Lots of Choss. Moss Ax in hand I finally found my way.
Moss Ax
Plaid
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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I tracked down Munge to get an interview and snap a few photos for the newest issue of Moss and Choss and almost got clobbered for my effort.
Munge is serious about his choss.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Lol, priceless is right!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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I'm lovin' the Moss and Choss!
Jebus sed: Let's just say it has a highly evolving grade.
LOL
BTW.. should I start production on more t-shirts?
sorry- it was the only pic I could find on short notice. Pay no attention to the stellar-quality rock in the background...
it was just a fling.. I swear.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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T-shirts yes. I would wear one proudly. Although I'm not gunna look as good as you in it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
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T-shirt!!!
New movie out...
Silence of the Mosses
"It belays under the roof, or it gets the loose rock again!"
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Another movie just out......of my mind.
Chossist Unchained:
A movie about the blood guts and glory of choss. And the revenge of a Chossist over coming snooty elitist climbers and mountaineers that only climb good rock.
Elitist defined: The belief that certain persons or members of certain classes or groups deserve favored treatment by virtue of their perceived superiority, as in intellect, social status, or financial resources.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Whose cliffs these are I do not know.
His house lies under boulders, though;
He will not see me climbing here
His body lies 'neath scree and snow.
My partner he must think it queer
To stop without firm anchor near
'Tween teetering blocks and mossy seep
To seek a route up fractured tiers.
He gives our tattered rope a take
And asks if there is some mistake.
The only other sound's the sweep
Of tumbling stones and guillotine flakes.
The rock is crumbly, sharp, and steep,
But I have a crevasse to greet,
And piles of choss before I sleep,
And piles of choss before I sleep.
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MisterE
Social climber
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^^ The girl is on a roll!^^ LOL!
Mmmmm...soft, pillowy choss:
The great thing about it is that when it hits you, it just explodes into dust and does no real damage.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Choss has come of age. Great liturature, Movies, magazines, T-shirts. All we need now is action figures and lunch boxes.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Choss as a main course is best served cold...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Just up behind the house a click on the sunny Colorado Chossapalooza tour … for some Gneiss Choss:
Route on the left,
60 meters, one bolt and assorted rock ticklin' trinkets:
Drilling:
Next route to the right:
Stich succoring the lichen and brittle flanges:
Second pitch as clean as Choss gets!
Happy ChossAholics on the summit!
James Peak and Mount Evans in the distant background:
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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ChossAholics
That's a good one. Little chance of recovery though. It may take 13 steps or more. The only cure would be abstinence.
NEVER!!!!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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^^^^^ Tar, that's Choss? HaHaHaHaHa! ;-)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
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Maid, that is beautiful!
bouldering the good stuff...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
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Hrm, wonder if I can convince the guys to hit up KFerry after a columbia session tomorrow?
Definitely Carrizo. Pick a weekend. I'm in.
Even the AAC supports this stuff...
https://vimeo.com/26336384
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MisterE
Social climber
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Hittin' up the quality choss tomorrow!
Who doesn't love sketchy volcanic tuff?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Tar, that's Choss? GaHaHaHaHa! ;-) I know Reilly, I know. I …um, Well … please don't report the infraction.
I assure you I'm in good standing with professional organizations such as CRAP & BARFA.
C.R.A.P.
Consortium of Rockclimbers Asking for Problems
B.A.R.F.A.
Bogus And Rotten Fells Association
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Tar, rest assured that I wasn't impugning your knowledge of the subject.
That stuff did look fair to licheny which can provide a worthy experience
on its own merits. I can recall being nearly blinded and rendered
instantly asthmatic on a few occasions. :-/
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Munge, you kinda look like John Cleese atop the castle wall shouting obscenities regarding mothers in boots and elderberries.
Next thing he'll do is fling cows at you!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
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Lol, the holy hand cobble!
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Runaway!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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you guys need to see some videos from the culm coast in the uk. that stuff is sh#t. rotten shale covered with dirt and guano and vegetation. makes oregon look like cirque of the unclimbables
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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aye, and where's that Irish Island video. Where they did it on the one day that northern IRE has sunshine...
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MisterE
Social climber
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Lol, the holy hand cobble!
"Hellloooo! We are from Chossalot and are on a holy mission seeking the Chossy Grail.
If you will allow us access to your crumbling tower, we will let you join us on our quest!"
"Some call me 'Tim' and I am guardian of the Choss - just look at that manky tower behind me that you will never reach! Ha! That is, unless..."
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 10, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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This choss is in New Zealand. You can't see it but Andrew in the pic is actually toe hooking to prevent falling into space, what with being upside down and all.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 10, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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I've heard this place called choss but I think it climbs really good!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
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Call it choss. It will keep the crowds away.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
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Don't choss me, Bro!!!!
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Backclip
Trad climber
utah
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:51am PT
|
Some of these pix (thanks for sharing BTW) look like good stone. Let me show you what TRUE choss is.
The creator of "This is the Choss", a Choss climbing park, brings you this....The last pitch on the Rattlehorn in City Creek Canyon in SLC.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
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Hey Backclip,
that's a hilarious picture!
That IS choss!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
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Backclip,
that's so ultimately chosstasty, and it looks like it's 5.3.
send that rig!
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Backclip
Trad climber
utah
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Feb 12, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
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The angle says 5.3 but the loose dirt screams 5.9R. Literally EVERYTHING you touch on that pitch will be on the ground soon enough. We still give him a hard time about this route. When he talked me into going up there we topped out in the dark and could hear all this buzzing by our asses (we were sitting down). Turned out to be a den of baby rattlesnakes...good times!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 12, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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Backclip, that looks like a pile of mud! you may need a weed whacker also.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
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LOL
Horrifying!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 12, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
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Hey Backclip, You should come check this place out!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 12, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
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Backclip..... you win.
So I was driving back to LA from Phoenix Monday.
Any info on the stuff south of the 10 about 25 miles shy of Quartzsite?
Kofa Nat wildlife refuge....
Looks like some Big Choss Walls and Spires.
MR E ?????
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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I got nothin...
BUT CHOSS!!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 12:58am PT
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This was the closest to choss we got last weekend. Mud in the horizontal crack. QUE HORRIBLE!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 13, 2013 - 01:25am PT
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Yikes there Backclip.. I wouldn't categorize that as a "pitch".. I think choss of that caliber needs a whole new term.. I'll think on it.
You've raised the bar. Now that the gauntlet has been thrown down.. I'm forced me to dig up my Willard Island pics for my next thread bump.
We had a typical chosstastic weekend at Echo Cliffs. Climbed a few routes we hadn't done before. The best thing about Echo... even though these quality routes (for some strange reason) were completely devoid of chalk , you could easily tell which holds to use by looking for the glue. Thanks Louis!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 13, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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Behold, Willard Island. So chossy the vertical faces are literally unclimbable. You'd be dead in minutes under a pile of jagged rubble.. that is if the primordial choss-monsters roaming the scree field don't get you first.
1000 foot elevation gain off the Sea of Cortez. You walk the spine and pray the entire time it doesn't disintegrate beneath your feet.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 13, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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Don't we get bonus points for climbing choss?
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Backclip
Trad climber
utah
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Feb 14, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
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Sweet! I win! What do I get? hahaha...seriously though, some of the pix posted as choss look like dreamy stone.
I stared to bolt a line at Echo above what we dubbed "the Fire Swamp". Got 4 bolts in (willy stick style) and called it after hitting shite stone/dirt. I don't know whats worse, the train going by or the Highway noise. Echo just plain sucks IMO.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
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Don't we get bonus points for climbing choss?
That all depends. It is a tricky grading system these guys came up with...
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Backclip
Trad climber
utah
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Feb 14, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
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Are those Geico sales reps?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
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They're Plaidman's rope guns.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
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Shiprock? THE Shiprock is climbable?
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
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That piece of crap called Ship Rock at Smith Rock has a few routes on it. I wouldn't waste my time on it though unless you have a death wish and don't care about the welfare of others. The main hiking trail is at the bottom of it and I am sure that if anything came off it would take out a hiker or two. That thing is beyond choss.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 14, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
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OMG.. the ears on those guys in the picture LOL
@ Backclip.. that picture is Echo Cliffs in Malibu. No highway or noise pollution anywhere in sight.
@ Plaidman.. er.. yeah.. Shiprock.. I don't have a death wish and wanted to get home in my car.. not in a body bag, so we never actually did the "route". Just thought the guide description was hilarious.
Edit to add: Choss really does need it's own grading system.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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Do we grade on the hardest move on the pitch, or on the feeling you are going to pitch, and that the pro is crap and you have not a chance in hell of making it out alive?
Extra points for spiceyness and how bad it looks. Although I have had some say that's choss, and I respond. It's really not that bad.
Grading is all in your mind. And I don't mind choss in the right place.
I just got my TR of the St. Peter's Dome climb published in the new Mazama Annual.
Best choss I ever climbed.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 14, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
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Chances of killing your belayer with loose rock must be incorporated into the grade, devalued if there is an overhang/cave that said victim can huddle in.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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We had a good cave on St. Peter's Dome. Totally protected the belayer. I really did think about how not to kill my best friend on that endeavor.
My partner did how ever pulled off a rock bigger than a softball when he started jugging the rope without making sure that he was directly below the anchor. So when he finally weighted the rope it was dragged across the rock and pulled off a chunk. The damn thing whacked him in the thigh.
That was on him though... literally. He won't do that again.
I tried to tell him..... sometimes they just got to hose it up for themselves to learn.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 15, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
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Here's a few from our local glory spot, Chossil Rock
A charming little area
Green moss and white legs, you know you're in Washington
A detail shot of the fertile choss. Yes, this is a route.
It gets cleaner as it gets steeper
Friendly warm up routes...
...and not universally mossy.
Of course, sometimes we'll drive 3 hours to the dry side of the state to climb at the Chossyard.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 15, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
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Its true that this thread isn't all choss, there are some FRAC areas too. In case you don't recall, that's "Funky Rock, Awesome Climbing".
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Backclip
Trad climber
utah
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Feb 15, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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I was thinking you were talking about Echo closer to my home in SLC. That place sucks! The pix above look moss-tacular!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 15, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
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This is almost as good as the original boob thread!
Anyone got any pics of the fine choss of the Superstitions????
Lots of choss to love there!!!!
kev
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 15, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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Off White, that is some serious choss. The last one reminds me of a quarry where all the rock is shattered by dynamite but still holding together somehow.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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Jeremy is curiously absent in this thread...
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
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^^^^YEAH! WTF! Where are those guys?
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
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StahlBro those pics are awesome. The first one looks like there are ticking time bombs in layers just ready to cut loose!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 16, 2013 - 11:09am PT
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Crown Point.. yee haw. Good candidate for the next issue of Moss and Choss. You know it's the good stuff when you're wishing you'd brought along your battery-powered weed-wacker.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 16, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
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I think the weeds are what's holding it together. I'd leave um ;-)
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abrams
Sport climber
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Feb 17, 2013 - 01:07am PT
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Its so f'd up when choss comes to visit you rather than the other way around
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 17, 2013 - 01:15am PT
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But on a more positive note:
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 17, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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Yeah justthemaid Crown Point could have it's own issue featuring it in Moss and Choss. Some of the ledges are only made up of moss. A little scary the first time I did the West Chimney. Some would wonder why I have climbed it 3x. Cause it's fun.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 17, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
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StahlBro your first pic is disqualified. This sport is called rock climbing not sediment climbing. Rock has lithified.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 17, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
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Bouldering on Thumb Rock, Liberty Ridge, Mt. Rainier. I forget the name of this intrepid climber, but he was the founder of Pipestone Mountaineering in Missoula, MT.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 17, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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Too bad. The Chosswidth on the right side rules. It gets wider every time you climb it.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 17, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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McHales! Re your mention: I forget the name of this intrepid climber, but he was the founder of Pipestone Mountaineering in Missoula, MT.
Is that the near-legendary Jim Wilson?
Speaking of Thumb-Rock on Liberty Ridge. By the time I finally got around to climbing the route in the early 1980's, every other turkey in the NW had figured out they could do the route in June.
We barely had room to camp at the flat-bivy under Thumb-Rock. We were forced to bivy right-up against the thumb and 15' above us was a huge detached flake, just hanging there like an axe-head. It stayed put, but I had nightmares.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 17, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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We had the total ridge to ourselves in 1995! It was approximately June. We camped on the summit for 2 days in a storm and saw nobody, then descended the Emmons to the Emmons ranger hut and saw nobody - and used the radio there to let everyone know we were OK. I guess that was pretty weird looking back on it - shows you how bad the weather was!
I climbed the Emmons Glacier route with Dave Gotlieb about the same time and we snowboarded off the summit. Again, the weather was bad, but it was also Memorial Weekend and the road had just opened. We hiked in while it rained and snowed and climbed the mountain with not another soul there. Had to plow through waste deep snow almost all the way up - and got there just before sunset with just enough time to fly down!
You mean the Stoney Point Jim Wilson? That's not him and his name was not Jim Wilson. I mean Jim Wilson's name was Jim Wilson, but not this guy. I forget this guy's name, but it wasn't Jim Wilson. If it was Jim Wilson he would have recognized me as a Stoney Point guy but he didn't.
This shows the true power of the choss - let the choss be with you. 2nd video is better, plus there are more links when it's over;
http://www.justgetout.net/wenatchee/22554
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 18, 2013 - 12:50am PT
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This shows the true power of the choss - let the choss be with you.
That second video was wild!
WOW! Revenge of the CHOSS! That was is certainly an eye opener. Don't get in the way of the CHOSS! Let the CHOSS have it's way. Cause it will make a way where there was none before.
Plaid
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Feb 18, 2013 - 02:03am PT
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As several other folks have pointed out - the Northwest is truly the land of choss, and the voluminous basalt flows of eastern Washington are truly choss-Mecca. If you're climbing without the knowledge that any (or every) handhold, foothold, or "fixed" anchor could suddenly fail under body weight at any moment, where's the thrill?
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 18, 2013 - 02:15am PT
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If you're climbing without the knowledge that any (or every) handhold, foothold, or "fixed" anchor could suddenly fail under body weight at any moment, where's the thrill?
That's what I say. It adds to the fun as long as you don't hurt anyone else. Belayer's beware! Always wear a helmet...and shoulder pads and a shield may not be a bad idea.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 18, 2013 - 02:29am PT
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Very nice.....very nice choss. I have a gong I could put to use as a shield.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Feb 18, 2013 - 03:59am PT
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Honopu beach on Kauai There seems to have been some sort of rockslide that opened up ... and there are huge boulders strewn on the beach.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 18, 2013 - 10:11am PT
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No choss thread is complete without Texas Canyon pictures:
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Feb 18, 2013 - 11:22am PT
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That's what I say. It adds to the fun as long as you don't hurt anyone else. Belayer's beware! Always wear a helmet...and shoulder pads and a shield may not be a bad idea.
I agree. You know you've encountered authentic choss when the belayer is at greater risk of injury than the climber. Someone should come up with a line of protective gear for the choss belayer - as suggested above. Choss climbing might really take off if belayers resembled gladiators....
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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Feb 18, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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The grossest type of choss? Its made of sea creature corpses and their poop
semi solidified into brittle poopified hazmat corpse stone.
Get back on some granite now
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 18, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
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McHale's! Re your post & my post & your question:
McHales! Re your mention:
I forget the name of this intrepid climber, but he was the founder of Pipestone Mountaineering in Missoula, MT.
From Fritz! Is that the near-legendary Jim Wilson?
Then your confused answer? (I did not answer your first question clearly)
You mean the Stoney Point Jim Wilson? That's not him and his name was not Jim Wilson. I mean Jim Wilson's name was Jim Wilson, but not this guy. I forget this guy's name, but it wasn't Jim Wilson. If it was Jim Wilson he would have recognized me as a Stoney Point guy but he didn't.
I doubt if the Jim Wilson that started Pipestone was the Stoney Point Jim Wilson, since the Pipestone founder (who is another Jim Wilson) grew up north of Butte and first started a climbing shop there, before expanding to Missoula. I'm sure of his name, since I worked with him as a outdoor gear sales-rep from day one. He sold the store a few years back to a Bozeman-based Nabob, who closed it in the 2008 recession.
Back to Choss. Much less confusing!
Makes for quick descents!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 18, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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kpinwalla2 as per your remark:
Choss climbing might really take off if belayers resembled gladiators....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
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Fortunately bright orange is easy to find if the choss collapses on you and we have to start digging.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 19, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
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I doubt if the Jim Wilson that started Pipestone was the Stoney Point Jim Wilson, since the Pipestone founder (who is another Jim Wilson) grew up north of Butte and first started a climbing shop there, before expanding to Missoula. I'm sure of his name, since I worked with him as a outdoor gear sales-rep from day one. He sold the store a few years back to a Bozeman-based Nabob, who closed it in the 2008 recession.
Fritz, Wow! That would be a coincidence. It sure doesn't ring the bells it should, but I look for first signs of dementia, in myself and others! HaHa! That is challenging for climbers since there is already a high background level of the stuff.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 19, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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Fortunately bright orange is easy to find if the choss collapses on you and we have to start digging.
With picks and shovels? Use dynamite. It's faster.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 19, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
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Skip following "Trundle Trophy", Riverside Quarry.
They took all of the limestone, and this is what is left.
Doesn't get much chossier than a fractured, blown-out cliff!
Disclaimer: The climbing is actually really good, if you can ignore the glue...
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Feb 19, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
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I'm looking at a lot of the photos on this thread, and to me, many of them feature rock that falls far below my standard for choss. But just how does one quantify "chossiness"? I'd suggest using the average density, as measured by combined length of cracks (fractures) per area of rock. So if you took a square meter of rock surface and measured the length of all of the cracks in that square meter and got 1 meter of fractures, that would not be so chossy as compared to say 5 or 6 meters of fractures. By this criteria, the rock in the photo below blows away most anything I've seen on here. Basically any piece of rock will move if a bit of force is applied to it - truly world class choss...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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goodly metrics to work with there!
Separately, I think I want to climb in Texas Canyon.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Feb 22, 2013 - 02:13am PT
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Going to Pinnacles for the next two days.....enough said
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 22, 2013 - 10:10am PT
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Climbing into a sea of choss
The sea of choss is on this:
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Feb 22, 2013 - 10:29am PT
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Gotta love Columbia River basalt entablature - that columnar stuff is for choss-avoiding wimps. You're lucky over there on the west side, you have all that moss to hold it in place... Here's a shot of some REAL climbers braving the über-chossy basalt entablature of Wallula Gap.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 22, 2013 - 10:57am PT
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Munge- I'll take you to Texas Canyon.. the boy is done with that pile and there's some newly bolted crumble-fests to be sent.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
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sounds fun! Let's target some time in Autumn/ or sooner if I visit the rents in so cal?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Feb 24, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
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We introduced Briham to some excellent Pinnacles choss on Saturday (after he did some of it's better routes on Friday). The only problem is - he's got the photos.
Post up a few Brian.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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Get on FB already Brad. lol I saw some already. He actually sounded like he's warming up to the place, which makes no sense if you put him on The Snail. really?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:10am PT
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We introduced Briham to some excellent Pinnacles choss on Saturday (after he did some of it's better routes on Friday). The only problem is - he's got the photos.
Post up a few Brian.
I have to say, after this trip I am more excited to come back...the power of choss has compelled me after all.
He actually sounded like he's warming up to the place, which makes no sense if you put him on The Snail. really?
The snail was definitely not the driving force behind this paradigm shift haha
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 12:12am PT
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couldn't have been Needles Eye, was it? OMG, chossville for sure.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:19am PT
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No, did 5 or 6 good routes on discovery wall, and one ok route on the frog.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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good deal. that's how the cults pull you in. first the good climbs, then the crappy ones with stories of stance and drilling, bravery and boldness, but in the end you're drinking light beer in the shade of some oatmeal pasted adobe mud brick piece of a climb. It's not too late to turn back. ;)
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:50am PT
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Yes, it is too late to turn back, he got the guidebook.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:55am PT
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A guide book to choss? Wouldn't that be like a guide book to sand castles
built at low tide?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 01:22am PT
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lol, nice Reilly
oh no, mtnyoung, not good, not good at all.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 25, 2013 - 09:10am PT
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There should be a book about choss climbing. A guide to the fractured areas. Chapter 1: techniques for cranking on loose blocks. (a) always prepare to shift weight since any hold could blow. (b) if you do pull off a big hold, try not to throw it at your belayer as you fall. (I did this once) Chapter 2. The use of ice climbing gear in soft sandstone. Chapter 3. The ethics of removing loose rock in traditional choss areas. It just needs an expert and a book and it becomes a legitimate part of climbing.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 09:43am PT
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It just needs an expert and a book and it becomes a legitimate part of climbing.
LOL! O.K. who is going to step up to the plate and become the expert? Where are we going to find someone to publish such a book? Not that it should not be written..... I'm just say'in
Plaid
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 25, 2013 - 10:05am PT
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"And so castles made of sand,
Fall to the sea,
Eventually."
-Jimi
Disclaimer, I live for choss!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 25, 2013 - 10:30am PT
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I don't wanna be the expert, I'm tryin' to quit.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 11:46am PT
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I'm tryin' to quit.
Don the only thing to cure what you got is rehab or a full frontal lobotomy.
I'm getting mine next week. Then I'll be good as new and good for nothing.
Just like before but different.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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Trephanation by choss rock fall?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Feb 25, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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"Castles Made of Sand."
Hey, that's a route at the Pinns! Gosh, darn good name, I'd say ...
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 25, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Feb 25, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
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a common theme here?
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Feb 25, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
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Summit Spire, KOFAs
Tom Scott (see 'um?) leading free past the old Summit Spire Baxter/Karlstrom aid line...loose and poorly protected
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Feb 25, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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Ok, a little closer shot
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Feb 25, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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I have been chuckling over this genius thread title since you started it. It is like the one-liner headlines you read in "The Onion."
Personally the closest I get to choss is my cat's litter box - I am sticking with nice solid, dependable Gunks conglomerate for now ;)
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 25, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
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Don the only thing to cure what you got is rehab or a full frontal lobotomy.
I'm getting mine next week. Then I'll be good as new and good for nothing.
Just like before but different.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 12:30am PT
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AHHHHH! J. Frank Parnell. Apt description of my condition if I say so myself.
And I say it a lot.
MisterE, you got me pegged...... but not pigeon holed
This is the summit photo after finishing solo FA of "Brother Mike" on The Steeple.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/brother-mike/107795096
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 01:17am PT
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best thread title EVAR! ;)
To be honest, I was thinking of the movie the Exorcist, where the priest is trying to expell the demon. "The power of christ compels you..." repeated like three or four times.
Anxious, OMG, I threw up in my mouth a little. Loooooose and BIG!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 01:19am PT
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Plaid, is that the look you give the po-po man when he stops you for erratic
driving when you were going through a road cut and ogling the choss?
ps
We both know you totally stole that pose from Benny Hill.
But you do it justice.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 01:21am PT
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Something like this happened to me at Pinnacles the other day...
http://youtu.be/vX3wNfw3iYY
They tried to get me to go to Yosemite. I wasn't opposed, but the power of the choss compels me.
One more weekend at Pinns, then I think it's game time for limestone, Table Mtn and Granite.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 01:24am PT
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Reilly that look usually gets me a ride in the squad car back to the state hospital.
It is really hard to pick out the best line when you are doin' 70+ mph up and down I-84. I always have to remind myself that I could probably get a better look if I just pulled over.
Hell I can see the WHOLE Columbia River Gorge if I just close my eyes. Got the image burned into the back of my brain.
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Feb 26, 2013 - 01:44am PT
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Munge, talk about a catch in the throat, Tom was breaking off flakes here and there, clipped this old 1/4 incher, (just above where the picture was taken) then ran it out a ways. He paused a bit, tried to finagle some wireds, then committed. About a dozen feet further his right foot popped off a crumbling flake and he was left hanging from looseness.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 01:49am PT
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WOOF!
Then what happened? Recovered and sent? Back down?
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Feb 26, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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Munge
He SENT! Shook, rattled and rolled in best rocker style.
And then it rained.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Feb 26, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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Reeotch, is that a slab sand surfing launch pad, or a boulder problem?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 26, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
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After two days of climbin' and 'splorin' with the girl, we are choss-weary.
This too shall pass, and will probably be re-chopsyched in a few days.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Feb 26, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
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Yep, Indian Creek, by an out of the way campsite out near technicolor wall.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 27, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
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Wow I thought we just made this up but people already have a choss boss competition and everything. Maybe SLIGHTLY more interesting than your average rock gym comp?
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SicMic
climber
two miles from Eldorado
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Feb 27, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
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As promised: the ChossWand.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 27, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Well Mic I guess there's really no point wearing a rope. All you're going to do is damage the choss when you fall and the gear placement falls apart.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Feb 27, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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Thanks Mic! Now THAT"S some quality choss. Here's more choss porn - we got miles of this stuff in eastern WA, and to make things even more interesting, the grass below is full of rattlesnakes.
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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Feb 27, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
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kpinwalla2 - seen what that stuff does to ropes and people. To scary for a spoiled Sierra punk.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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kpinwalla,
How do you bolt in that blocky eastern WA stuff?
Is there a substrate you eventually get to that is stable?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Feb 27, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
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He wishes...We have a big band of that stuff just down from the good stuff, local. I'll go take a couple pics of this bolted line through it. I doubt it's been climbed since it was put up. Much, anyway. Looks like you could pull blocks at those bolts.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 12:36am PT
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How do you bolt in that blocky eastern WA stuff?
Climb it enough and eventually you get to something solid. It makes is kinda interesting.
Plaid
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 28, 2013 - 10:21am PT
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Pics from New Jack City this weekend.
Some friends climbed the Crooked Dick Spire (left of the climber) a couple weeks ago and had some incidental toaster-sized footholds crumble out from under them on lead. Gotta keep those lazy belayers on their feet ya know.
I never quite realized the "quality" of choss there until we did some 'splorin' off the well beaten routes. It's amazing the whole place doesn't just fall down BTW.
We TR'd this unclimbed 5.9 with high hopes of new chossaneering, but scuttled the proj. when no solid rock was found and we decided putting up a noob death-route was a waste of time. The dark-colored shell is basically adhered by a talc#m-mustard plaster underlayment. Kinda like climbing your kid's sand and macaroni project.
Did some hiking on the outer rim. Choss, choss and more choss.
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Chip C. Chipperson
Sport climber
Chippewall, ME
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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Hey there, say...
How does your choss grow? Don't you have to clip the branches of a rose bush to make beautiful flowers?
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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How do you bolt in that blocky eastern WA stuff?
We clean off all the stuff that pulls off easily and then try to find a chunk that sounds reasonably solid when you beat on it with a hammer - but there are no guarantees...
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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On one of the many dirt roads NE of (395) Mammoth there is a hillside of tall crumbly towers, and actually white like chalk-board chalk. I had scoped it out once, but got lost when I went back later. My car is a little more reliable now, so I'm hoping to go out there again if the weather holds.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Bring the appropriate tools, B.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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New variation on St. Peter's Dome. I call it Plaidman's Fally.
Spelled correctly.....there is a back story
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Plaidman,
I look at that and realize I am not worthy.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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The beauty of choss is that it is the great equalizer. Qoute me on that.
Even on 5.1, you can have such an adventure!
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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The beauty of choss is that it is the great equalizer. Qoute me on that.
Even on 5.1, you can have such an adventure!
That is SO true! I've watched hyper-fit studly types - especially those that spend too much time in the gym, completely freak out on easy choss.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Qoute me on that.
Munge. Consider yourself quoted.
Plaid
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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I look at that and realize I am not worthy.
Yup^^^Plaidman does seem to have cornered the market on the really scary stuff. I'm thinking of sending him some of those Polish grass screws for his birthday.
It rarely rains here, so us desert rats don't really get the opportunity to hone our moss-skills.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Justthemaid is that Plaidman or Tradman?
If it is the former I could use those Polish Grass Screws before Nov. 4th
I have a project in mind......
Do they look like this? I know some moss. Some of my best friends are moss.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Typo.. I fixed it. that was at you Plaid.
Edit to add.. it will be interesting to see how well those screws hold in a tuft of grass anchored only in mud and gravel. Those Pollacks are totally nuts BTW.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Maybe Poles and the Scottish folk are related somehow?
Maybe not.
If I want to get my blood up when climbing choss, ice, or moss
I scream ..... WILLIAM WALLACE!.....at the top of my lungs
It gets the job done! Fight for The Freedom to climb CHOSS!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Plaid, you & I need to visit Leslie Gulch. Bring all the beaky things you can carry. Big, small, bring them all.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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We gonna climb something like this?
Any FA's to be had?
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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That red screw is what you're going to use for gear? Cool this is a whole area of climbing I don't know much about. I was half joking before, about using ice climbing gear in soft rock. I haven't climbed on the same kind of choss as you guys do. I thought of it in terms of 4th class climbing never did a hard choss route. In fact its hard to imagine climbing harder than 5.8 on holds that might break under body weight.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Don the above photo is of volcanic tuff similar to Smith Rock. The first time I did a trad route there I almost freaked cause it looked like mud.....
Well it is just PETRIFIED mud!
Then there is the basalt choss in the Columbia River Gorge. Here is another shot of Plaidman's Fally
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Lots of cool FA's there, man. Serious bidness.
I'm game. Oh there's choss. Oh yes.
Bring yer armor, too.
Call me (BK Bland) in boise & leave a message or pm
skullyambroATgmailDOTcom, dig it.
It's just a couple hours from my secret world headquarters. Leslie is.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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O.K. Captain...or Skully let's make a play date.
I have got to get out.
Plaid
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Plaidman, get help while you still can!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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I am beyond help. Feeling good...... hold on ....let me feel myself.
Yep! Feel good!
Plaid
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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HaHaHaHa! OK, that's all that matters! :-)
Ya know, the last time I drove by Beacon Rock there was this volcanoe
spewing crap over 6 states. That was an epic drive. I got two speeding
tickets that day - fooking tools had no sense of reality.
Trivia note: I've a FA on the erstwhile Mt St Helens that will never be repeated!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Ya know I took some of that ash back to Colorado with me after Mt. St. Helens blew up and sold it for money......fools. They didn't know that they were shoveling it up with front end loaders in places like Yakima and Spokane WA.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I coulda given you some from my air filter!
Did ya sell it as virgin or blown once?
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MisterE
Social climber
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We people need help!
And by that, I mean a belayer that will put up with more than most...
not the couch-kind.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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It sounds like maybe a couple monkeys can go get scared in the weirdest places.
Woot! We may need more beer. or appropriate malt liquors.
And band aids. Lotsa those.
Mungie, Post Falls is like 600 miles away. That's the long way. It's the only way, too. :-(
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2013 - 01:37am PT
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I'll be in CDA in couple weeks. Mostly visiting fam, but if either of you guys are up that way, I can sneak over to Post Falls for half a day. Need to know whether to bring shoes and stuff, so ping on FB or here.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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It took me reading this whole list to finally figure out you would be in Coeur d'Alene Idaho
Here is the list: web link at:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CDA
CDA or Cda may refer to:
[edit]Associations
Club de Deportes Antofagasta, is a Chilean football club based in the city of Antofagasta.
Chinese Daoist Association
[edit]Industry organisations
Canadian Dental Association, an association of dentists in Canada
Canadian Dinghy Association
College Democrats of America, the national organization that oversees the direction and day-to-day management of 1300 College Democrats chapters around the country
[edit]Political parties and lobbying groups
Christian Democratic Alliance (South Africa), political party
Christian Democratic Appeal, a political party of the Netherlands
Conservative Democratic Alliance, a United Kingdom pressure group
[edit]Companies
Caran d'Ache (company), a famous Swiss fine arts products company.
[edit]Computing
".cda", a filename extension for a Compact Disc Audio track
Cellular Digital Accessory, a means to identify the software version of a mobile phone
Clinical Document Architecture, an HL7 authored health care documentation standard
Compress Da Audio, one of the earliest MP3 warez groups
Red Book (audio CD standard), Compact Disc Audio, the standard format for a CD
[edit]Education
Central Delta Academy, a private school in Mississippi
Certified Dental Assistant, A dental assistant that is certified in the United States.
Coram Deo Academy, a small private Christian school in Flower Mound, Texas
Child Development Academy, Daycare for Marshall University in Huntington, WV.
[edit]Government agencies
Capital Development Authority, Islamabad, Pakistan
Combined Development Agency, a uranium purchasing authority run by the US and UK government from 1948
[edit]In fiction
Child Detection Agency, a fictional agency in the animated world of Pixar's Monsters, Inc.
[edit]Laws
Crime and Disorder Act 1998 (c.37)
Communications Decency Act, a US law found partially unconstitutional
Confidential disclosure agreement
Criminal defense attorney
Child Development Associate, the CDA Credential awarded to those in the Early Care & Education by The Council for Professional Recognition to work with Infants, Toddlers, or Preschoolers
[edit]Science
Cda, the abbreviation for the orchid genus Cochlioda
Clean Dry Air, air that has been filtered and dehumidified to remove particulates and moisture so that it can be safely used in pneumatic devices or systems
Continuous Descent Approach is an aircraft approach method designed to reduce fuel burn and noise
The Cosmic Dust Analyser in the Cassini-Huygens spacecraft
[edit]Chemistry
Chiral derivatizing agent, a type of chemical designed to react with enantiomers to indicate the enantiopurity
Completely denatured alcohol, the most heavily denatured alcohol
Controlled Droplet Application: a concept in pesticide application
[edit]Medicine
Chlorproguanil hydrochloride-dapsone-artesunate, an antimalarial drug that entered Phase III clinical trials in 2006
Clinical Document Architecture, part of the Health Level 7 standard
Congenital Developmental Abnormality/Abnormalities
Congenital Dyserythropoietic Anemia, a rare hematologic blood condition
Cytidine deaminase, an enzyme
[edit]Other
Coeur d'Alene (disambiguation), multiple meanings
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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That's a long road away, man. Choss can be found Much closer to home, though invites are always a good groove. 'Gracias.
Leslie Gulch calls you, man. Plaidman. That place needs some color.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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When we going? send email at scott.k.peterson@gmail.com
We will work out the details. I really need a road trip.
Plaid
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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I'm thinking DaBrim needs to come out with an armored option for deflecting rocks off the belayer.
@Don:
That red screw is what you're going to use for gear? Cool this is a whole area of climbing I don't know much about...
That's a whole area of climbing you should be happy you don't know anything about. Poles drive those screws into frozen clumps of grass growing out of cliffs for protection... of course the real adventure starts once the cliff thaws out. We'll let Plaidman get back to us on that experiment.
...In fact its hard to imagine climbing harder than 5.8 on holds that might break under body weight.
Er.. there's a whole guidebook dedicated to them.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Plaidman's Fally looks awesome - the work of a true chossmeister! Here's some more great Columbia Valley Basalt choss - but these are dikes, not flows, so the small irregular columns are oriented horizontally, not vertically. The dikes are somewhat more resistant to weathering than the flows they intrude, so after millions of years of erosion, they end up sticking out of the mountainside like huge fins. To bolt them, we use a 12 ft. long bit and drill all they way through the fin and place a 12" diameter washer and nut on that side so it won't pull through the choss ;-).
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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To bolt them, we use a 12 ft. long bit and drill all they way through the fin and place a 12" diameter washer and nut on that side so it won't pull through the choss ;-). That is sick!!!!!
When can I meet you to get on that stuff!
Plaid
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Nobody asked for the back story on Plaidman's Fally.
So here it is anyway.....
I started to hike up to the saddle on St. Peter’s Dome on Oct. 12th 2012. The previous time I hiked in this area I ended up on the wrong side of the ravine and was unable to cross over to the east side. I knew this was an obstacle that I needed to avoid. I had my ice ax and a load of gear to stash up on top today. My pack was heavy with pitons and other necessary items that would be needed for the climb.
I ambled my way through the knee deep ferns and other brush. It was now fall so the leaves had started to drop off the trees and the thinning forest was easier to navigate. One of the difficult things in navigation here in the western gorge is the thickness of the undergrowth and the overgrowth; simply just all things growing. This area of the Columbia river Gorge gets any where from 90 to 120 of inches of rain per year and is a temperate rain forest.
I haven’t seen my feet in over an hour and I am worried about feral anacondas. There aren’t any here but there are frogs in abundance and snakes. Mostly garter snakes, which I have seen a few. But there are other varieties that I was unaware of. Rattlesnakes I knew were in the eastern Gorge. What we call a bull snake is more properly called a gopher snake. Here in the rain forest we don’t have to worry about them. There are scorpions though. I have only seen one dead scorpion, on a ledge at Beacon Rock while climbing, but they are here and hide mostly under the rocks and moss.
I had a general idea of where to go, but the forest would obscure the view of the dome and the perspective would change as I moved up. There are several buttresses and the cliff faces would blend together. I wondered if I was going the right way. Moving up the right side of the ravine I got as high as I could above the alder grove that covered the slide that had happened 10 years ago. The alder is thick and I was trying to find the thinnest section to get from one side to the other. I pushed my way through the tangled mass of alder growth and found the deep ravine that needed to be crossed. The bank was 30 feet tall, under cut by the course of the steam and way too steep to get down. Turning left I moved 300 feet downhill and found an acceptable crossing. After making the crossing of the stream I moved up the opposite bank.
The hiking wasn’t too steep here and the forest was thick again with moss and old growth fir. I moved toward the dome and found the talus slope. This slope of discarded rock that has sloughed off the dome was loose but not overly to cause much concern. Moving as quickly as I could I moved up through the talus and gained the saddle and dumped my pack of supplies. I found a niche near the base of Little St. Peter’s Dome. This feature is a spire on the saddle that I had hoped to climb. After placing moss and leaves and sticks to mask my deposit of gear I turned to return from whence I came. I was fastly running out of daylight. I would return tomorrow with the crew to start the assault on St. Peter’s Dome.
I had my wife, The Adventure Queen, and my climbing partner, Rick McDonald, the next day. We were loaded down with water and the rest of the supplies, which consisted of ropes and bivy gear. We planned on spending the night and starting the climb the next day. We moved fairly quickly and as we proceeded I fixed ropes on the steeper sections. I had given Ronda and Rick rope ascenders to assist with the trudge up the approach. Upon arriving at the top of the talus slope we set up camp at the south end of the saddle and slept well in our moss covered sleeping area.
We awoke to fog and had some trouble deciding where to start up to get into Furrers Cave. I finally decided to start up and was pleasantly surprised to see that I picked the right spot. I couldn’t believe that the old timers used to solo unroped up to the cave. I found it a bit unnerving not knowing what was loose and what would hold. I mixed up the climbing with a little aid and some free climbing. When I got to the cave I built and anchor and fixed the rope for Rick to ascend.
We realized that the bolted anchor would probably need to be replaced, so had the correct gear to replace it. What we found were two old rusty bolts. One was ¼ inch with a home made hanger on it and the other bolt wasn’t much better. It was a ⅜ inch bolt with the same kind of home made steel hanger. It didn’t give us much confidence. The hardware we ended up replacing the bolts was ½ inch by 4 ½ inch stainless bolts with stainless steel hangers. It took us about 4 hours to hand drill these bolts. But now we could climb with confidence knowing the belay was in good rock with quality gear.
Rick and Ronda had to leave because they were working the next day. I stayed and slept at the bivy on the saddle, woke up the next day and tried to solo aid up the first pitch. I only made it up to the first fixed piton before I realized that I was not willing to go much higher alone. Intimidated and unhappy about the lack of progress I left to come back with my partner and try again next weekend.
Rick and I started up on Friday evening the next week, slept at the saddle bivy and made it up to our high point from the weekend before the next morning. I was ready now to tackle the 96 foot band. I planned on replacing a bolt and hanger that I could see above my high point. It was another of those terrible rusty ¼ inch bolts. We had a secret weapon this trip though. A power drill. We had had enough of hand drilling. So upon getting to the accursed rusty blob I found a good spot a bit above it and put in a good ½ inch by 4 ½ inch bolt with a shiny stainless steel hanger. This one would hold a fall and keep me from hitting the ledge below.
I proceeded to nail pitons one after another. The route I was following had been climbed several times now by previous parties. There was little loose rock but the nailing was tricky. Mostly A2 I thought. I used mostly bird beaks, peckers, and another secret weapon, Toucan pitons. The Toucan pitons were the right tool. These pitons have long beaks and are down angled so they lodge deep into the cracks. They were the most solid piece of gear on the pitch.
I finally made it up about 80 feet when I came to an anchor that was just below the grassy ledge at the top of the 96 foot band. I saw that these bolts needed to be replace also so I put in two of ½ inch by 4 ½ hardware that I had been using and fixed the rope to this anchor and retreated into the cave with Rick. I had taken me hours to do the pitch and I cleaned all the gear on rappel. We hunkered down for a nights rest to get going again in the morning.
We got up early and jugged the ropes to my high point. I had a lead up to the grassy ledge of about 16 feet. This was about 5.8 free climbing in a weird chimney kind of thing then after getting to the ledge the wall was rotten so I was unable to get any gear in until I traversed to the left. I got to a nice slab of rock and built a bomb proof anchor with pitons and nuts, brought up Rick and got ready for the next pitch.
I traversed left further along the ledge till I got to a bent piton and looked up. It was not really the feature I was looking for as the guide said this was a 5.8 chimney. It didn’t look like a chimney to me but I was not willing to go any further to the left as the ledge ended and I could not see around the corner. So up I decided was the best choice. I started nailing a pencil thin crack with #1 bird beak pitons. When the crack was just about ended I had no choice but nail it one more time just above the last placement. To the left were hanging plates of chandelier looking like rock, just ready to come raining down upon me. There were no cracks to the right. So I nailed another piton above my last placement. I had a bad feeling about it, and low and behold I was right. As I pounded one more time the crack I was nailing expanded and the piton that my aiders were hung on, that I was standing in exploded and I was instantly airborne falling backwards through the air. I ended up, well not really up but upside down, hanging by one of the small #1 birds beak pitons.
Normally if I am not hurt, falling just makes me mad. So I checked myself out and let Rick know I was fine and got backup to my high point. Out came the hooks and I found small features to hook my way up and right then traversing left until I could get in a solid piece of gear. It was a Long Dong Lost Arrow piton and I was never so grateful to get that one in. I had a few free moves to make. Made a mistake by not un-clipping the last piece of gear I was aiding on, so in the middle of a free move I was stuck. I untangled the mess I had made without falling again and got to a stance just below the grassy slope above. Here I knew that the hardest move would be pulling myself up on this steep slope of moss, dirt and loose rock. I had another trick in my bag. Before I left the grassy ledge at the bent piton I had tied my moss ax to a tag line. This was my ace in the hole. I quickly brought up the tool and with it in my hand sunk it deep into the loamy moss covered incline. Up I went and practically ran up to the tree nearly 25 feet above me kicking steps as I proceeded.
Fixing the rope for Rick after attaching myself to the tree, I yelled “OFF BELAY”. Now Rick followed up as the last rays of the sun disappeared from the sky. It hadn’t seemed like it took that long but aid climbing can be tricky when it comes to time. It seems that time is standing still for the climber and is really racing by at screaming speed. As I sat there I thought that the name of the pitch I just had led should be called Plaidman’s Fally. Folly because I was off route and I fell while leading the pitch. So the spelling should be FALLY. I love playing with words.
We set up our bivy after Rick arrived at the tree. I had yelled down to him to leave the gear and we would clean it later. He said he was fine cleaning in the dark by headlamp. “Besides” he said “What are we going to do with all the time we have on our hands.” I had hauled up our bivy gear and food. Now all we needed was a flat place to sleep. We dug out ledges with the moss ax and lined them with moss. After eating we settled down to sleep. He gave me his down vest and I gave him my wool socks. I didn’t want my belayer to get cold feet.
I slept fairly well but Rick said he didn’t sleep much. The sleep he did get was filled with sounds of me banging pitons. When he wasn’t sleeping he was counting the 17 trains that blew their whistle at the railroad crossing nearly a mile away below us. The cliffs above and around St. Peter’s Dome act as a natural amphitheater. I think it was really an eerie wild sound and filled the night.
We got up early and got started again. The slope above was peppered with loose blocks and moss covered ledges. There was nothing solid to place any protection. So this was a 200 foot runout scary loose lead. This was some of the loosest rock I had ever seen. I called it alpine choss at sub-alpine elevation.
I was unable to make it to the summit so I built an anchor on a tree and brought Rick up and let him get the last 50 foot lead to the summit. After he got there he brought me up. I was elated to gain this summit and to do it with my best friend was a real bonus. We signed the summit register and proceeded to rappel. This climb was the first objective in my 100 Days, 100 Miles, 100 Climbs project. I figured that I would get the hardest one out of the way and the others would be a cakewalk. I was almost right.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Kpin.. So that's what they use this for?:
Edit to add: Figured you'd post up about the Fally when you were darn well ready.. Great story.
PS: TRAPPED! I've got some major feline paralysis going on here. The Mewster normally hates everyone so I'm loath to disturb any lap-time bone she throws me.
PPS: I love that you have a "moss axe"
PPPS: What is fog? ;)
PPPSS: 100 days, 100 miles, 100 climbs sounds fun!
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Thanks for the trip report Plaidman! That's the real deal. Here's a shot of Cordwood Tower at The Dikes, so named because the columns are stacked like a wood pile - and fall apart almost as easily.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Here's another photo of climbing the butt-end of columns on the side of a dike...
And here's a shot of a cliff along the Snake River near Lewiston Idaho where the columns curve from vertical to horizontal.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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How does that qualify as 'choss'? ;-)
It looks a n00b's dream for learning 00 cam placements.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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I think the cliff with the curved columns would almost certainly qualify as choss in most folk's view. The columns are narrow (less than 12" across) and not really connected to one another, so the outer layer can be dislodged with minimal effort.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sweeet....
I think that's one of the coolest looking cliffs I've ever seen.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2013 - 01:08am PT
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great TR Plaidman!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Sport climbing is neither. Choss climbing is .... both!
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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I'd never believe it, but it's true...
Damn, I need some granite ;)
Cheers
LS
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BMartin
Ice climber
Bozeman, MT
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Overhanging choss, Hyalite Canyon
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Scott after reading some of your stories it makes me think you should go to South America. There's tons of mountain/jungle areas, big canyons with moss dripping off the rocks and rain every single afternoon for a couple of hours. Salto Angel in Venezuela is an example, just tons of crumbly rock and moss, leeches snakes and whatnot. There must be tons and tons of this kind of climbing, but people down there are just getting into the sport and this would not be their first idea.
Where I am in Colombia (note spelling please) is like that but flat. Here's a video of a mudslide on a road I've taken dozens and dozens of times. Its the only road to the uraba region, and 10 hours drive through the mountains from the nearest city, Medellin.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
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holy crap, that's a lot of mud
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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@Don - I may be crazy but I don't like to get dirty. No mud for me. At least in those portions. Me like no snakes either. I hear you got BAD snakes and other nasty stuff down there....You should come up here....it's safer.
Plaid
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Another adventure in the 100 Days, 100 Miles, 100 Climbs saga.
Plaid
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 01:56am PT
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awesome
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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So Plaidman, where are those cool choss towers? Looks like the stuff I see in the cliffs above I-84 while driving down the gorge towards PDX. Always wondered if anyone had scrambled up there to check them out. Also wondered whether you could actually climb them without trundling something the size of a washing machine onto the interstate below...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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PLAIDMAN FOR PRESIDENT!
You gotta admit it has a nice ring to it.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Reilly I'm crazy, not stupid. I gave up on polotics a long time ago. Even if your winning, at what cost to you and your family.. Besides I have a sorted past. Just look what I turned into. A climber.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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@Don HOLY CRAP!! This is a real place. Bryce Canyon Hoodos Utah at Twilight.
Can we climb that stuff! Not really can we climb it, but will they let us climb it? WOW!
Kingdom Forlorn. I thought it was a fantasy picture. That is CHOSS PORN!
Answered my own question:
Climbing the rocks and sliding on the slopes
is illegal and dangerous. As per http://www.nps.gov/brca/parknews/upload/2012-13_Winter_Hoodoo_web.pdf
The dream has ended :(
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
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I think the ones that are in that pic would be watched like a hawk by the NPS rangers, and any that are oft photographed.
paging Dr. Van Belle, please report to the Chossoperating room, stat!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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^^^^Plaidman needs a frontal lobotomy! Emergency frontal lobotomy before he is a danger to himself and others. STAT MEANS HURRY UP!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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So Plaidman, where are those cool choss towers? Looks like the stuff I see in the cliffs above I-84 while driving down the gorge towards PDX.
Yep these be the ones...Just 6 miles east of The Dalles. They are fairly well away from I-84. No real chance of any one of the blocks making it that far...now one landing on your belayer may be another story.
Here is my story from Day 47 of the 100 Days saga:
Silverman sent me a message that he wanted to climb. I was going to take a rest day but I couldn't turn down a solid climbing partner. I called him right away and told him it was on. He didn't even know where we were going.
We met up for the drive out and I told him our objective. He was pleased as he had wanted to climb the spires we were headed toward. The Apocalypse Needles have at least 6 or more spires that I have had my eye on for a while. The Adventure Queen and I looked at doing Fire Spire but the approach was above her pay grade. She opted out.
Now Silverman was available and the weather looked reasonable. We arrived at the west end of the Apocalypse Needles at the railroad access road turn off, got on the game trails and headed up. I didn't know that the game trails were made by bighorn sheep until the Adventure Queen and I saw some on these trails a week ago.
Silverman and I arrived at The Bump and I racked up to lead the climb. There are 3 routes on this spire. I chose the easy 5.6 as I didn't know what the quality of the rock would be. It didn't look good but after climbing St. Peter's Dome I think I have been recalibrated. Most rock looks a lot better now.
I had to run it out a bit to get in some solid protection. My foot slipped a bit before I got high enough to get my piece of gear in. I held it together and got a #2 Camalot in and then a red 1.5 Totem Cam to back that up. Place early and often is the credo when lead climbing.
Now that those pieces were in I could really climb. I worked my way up past some dubious looking hanging blocks. I gingerly worked my feet up and got some really solid hand holds and continued up. I placed two pieces of gear, a blue offset nut and a blue .65 Totem Cam. Then I moved up to the bolt at the crux of the route. I moved up and clipped the bolt and now knew I was home free.
One more move and I was at the anchor. There were two bolts with hangers on either side of the summit block with a nest of webbing and cord wrapped around them and the summit block. The summit block was solid and on top there was a pile of fish and small rodent bones. This must be a feeding station for raptors. So climbers are not the only ones that like these places.
I brought up Silverman and we enjoyed the summit and he gave me a high five for the good lead. He was probably just glad I didn't pitch off before I got my first piece in. That was really the hardest part of the climb. The rock wasn't that great so we decided not to do any of the other routes. We rappelled off and packed up for the next spire.
We got to Fire Spire after making some sketchy moves on the approach. Silverman was worried that we would have to down climb this section. I told him we would build an anchor and rap off. Upon getting up to the headwall we were greeted by a welcome sight. Someone had placed a bolt and a piton as a rappel anchor already. We were overjoyed.
Now on to the objective. Silverman took the lead and placed several pieces of gear as he moved up. The route we took was 5.7 or A1 and the rock looked even better than The Bump. There were not as many loose blocks. Silverman placed one piton and stood in a sling to make the crux move. That was the A1 placement and seemed reasonable.
He made it to the summit easily and then stood up to touch the summit block. He then brought me up. I went up and went to stand on the block that Silverman had stood on to touch the summit block. Just as I did Silverman gave a whelp and told to not stand there, the block was moving. I moved off and down climbed quickly.
After I got down we signed the summit register. There was a Tupperware container that had a pad of paper, pencil and a snack size Snickers candy bar in it. We read that the last entry was January 28th in 2001. It was hard to believe that we were the first ones to climb this in the last ten years. There must have been other climbers since then.
We rappelled off the ropes that were slung around through a crack below the summit block, pulled our rope and made it back down to the rappel of the headwall to the bench below were we had started.
What an awesome day. Two spires for the 100 Days, 100 Miles, 100 Climbs project. Now the count stands at 56 out of 100. I climb on to the Next Adventure!
Plaid
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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(previous formation is in upper left corner)
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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When Mother Nature gives you choss....
make choss-en-ade!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Now that is Chossy!^^^^
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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kpinwalla2 where the heck is that. Looks fun! We got to get out together sometime since we are in the same neck of the woods..... I personally am in the deeeeeep woods. Kinda like an ogre or hobbit. Maybe more like a dwarf cause of my little stature. 5' 7" and shrinking.
Plaid
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 01:02am PT
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I feel out chossed. dang!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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This thread is kinda like the Deadhead thread.
And like Garcia said,
"Not everyone likes licorice. But the people who like licorice reeeaaaallly like licorice."
For the record, the power of choss does not compel me but chunder on, my choss loving brothers and sisters.
edit: what about those dirt towers near Grand Junction where Pete Takeda climbed with ice axes and rebar. Now that dude was compelled by the chawse.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 01:22am PT
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The ultimate choss climb in the West
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Michelle
Social climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Now that's one pile if choss! 108?
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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I think the choss climb of all time is The Great White Fright. Where those guys climbed the White Cliffs of Dover with ice axes. It used to be on Youtube. Now the only way to get it is via the DVD. The only problem is that it is in a UK digital format which the U.S. DVD players don't use. I tried to order the DVD for the Mazama library. We had to cancel our order. So no choss porn. DAMN IT!
It is a real shame cause that was one scary choss filled adventure.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Mar 10, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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kpinwalla2 where the heck is that. Looks fun! We got to get out together sometime since we are in the same neck of the woods..... I personally am in the deeeeeep woods. Kinda like an ogre or hobbit. Maybe more like a dwarf cause of my little stature. 5' 7" and shrinking.
"That" is at The Dikes. Website here:
http://people.whitman.edu/~pogue/climbing/dikesguide.html
Let me know if you're ever up in my neck of the deep woods. There's also non-choss climbing available (I know, boooooring!) at Spring Mountain. Ogre, dwarf, hobbit, elf are all OK - but no balrogs, please.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Mar 10, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
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A few from around CA
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Mar 10, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
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Jeff, Have you climbed at true value?
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Mar 10, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
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Yes, if it the one across the river near the bridge. I think I ran into a couple of buddies of yours. Every couple of years I do one of the easier climbs there. I would like to explore the area more. I have skied around Tyron Peak and I think I have seen the basalt, I have heard that Henry Peak has some basalt too.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Mar 11, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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kpinwalla2 been meaning to get out the Spring Mountain. I'll let you know before I get there so you can clear out the weak stomached.
I've been known to have a foul mouth too. So ear plugs may be required.....I'll try to be on my best behavior.
Plaid
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 11, 2013 - 12:46am PT
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Plaidman, eat yer heart out! I'm going' to Choss Heaven - the Dolomiti! Where it all started.
I'm gonna do Il Campanile Basso di Brenta which was first climbed in 1899! 5.8 Choss in
street shoes with hemp ropes and little else. Check out the Grossman thread:
Great Pioneers of the Eastern Alps.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Mar 11, 2013 - 09:39am PT
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Reilly concider heart eatten. Damn you man!
Got karma?
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 11, 2013 - 10:30am PT
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Mar 11, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
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Really enjoyed the article in the Mazama annual Plaidman. Makes me want to go back - something about the smell of Gorge moss...smells like adventure. Was craning my neck (again) yesterday looking at those piles...I mean towers above 84 just east of the dalles. Look nice.
John Leary photo 2008.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Mar 12, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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Thx John. I had fun writing that story up.
That picture was from Radek's scent via his new line on St. Peter's Dome with his wife belaying.
TR here:http://www.summitpost.org/st-peters-dome/401215
His account of pulling up onto the mossy blocks at top of the 96 foot band, to the ledge was what inspired me to bring the moss ax to assist in making that move. The heck with a hook. I'll take a moss ax any day. Here is what one looks like.....
Plaid
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Mar 13, 2013 - 02:03am PT
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Don't do this to perfectly good kids. Choss is not a life style I would sign anyone up for.
Plaid
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 13, 2013 - 09:43am PT
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Friends don't let friends choose choss. Choss isn't a choice.. it's a lifestyle you learn to lovingly embrace when every hunk of rock within 100 miles is crumbling POS and your love of climbing outweighs your fear of headwounds.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Mar 13, 2013 - 10:29am PT
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@justthemaid Ode de Choss. Someone should put music to that.... maybe with kazoos and maracas.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Mar 13, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
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THOSE IS TOTEMS!!!! I would recognize them anywhere. They work in choss too!
Nice job Andy.
Plaid
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
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Plaidman, how's yer Chinese? I think I found your Promised Land.
1000 650'-1000' CHOSS TOWERS!!!!!!!!
Zhangjiajie National Forest - it's a forest all right!
I figger it would take you about three years to work yer way
through these at one a day.
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craig mo
Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
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Mar 14, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Mar 14, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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I thought maybe the choss thread was dead.....
Not so.
CHOSS LIVES! LONG LIVE CHOSS!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 12:19am PT
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Here here long live the choss!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Apr 29, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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Bowl 'O Choss, aka Devil's Punchbowl:
Questionable sandstone and mandatory run-outs? Check:
Sketchy gear? Check:
Old bolts and home-made hangers? Check:
No chalk? Check.
Funnest day in ages, going back next weekend.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Apr 29, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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Munge....
Plaid...
guess what I got today...
'neener'
'neener'
:)
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Apr 29, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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I "heart" the licence plate! Woohoo.
Ha ha ha!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Apr 30, 2013 - 12:01am PT
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Crunch...It looks like you are standing inside one of those holes kids dig in the sand at the beach.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 12:10am PT
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worthy!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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@Maid - Maybe if i hurry i can get the Oregon one.
They should just give it me because i love choss so much.
Plaid
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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You know Crunch, I've got a stash of some real nice Jurassic Wingate things that are tall and virginal, some of the poorest cemented Jwg I've known, and you probably wouldn't even be interested if I were to cut you in, would you? You really do have a dirt addiction, don't you?
Thank you for normalizing my obsession with good old loose quartz sandstones. Seriously, I feel much better about these, my chosspiles of a more standard fare:
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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This has to be my favorite choss climb yet. On sight lead ground up of "Into The Mystic". I had a drill but wouldn't use it till I got to the top of the pitch. My wife said there were piles of crap coming out of that chimney/stream vent hole. She said that she almost vetoed the climb. She didn't relieve that her vote didn't count. My blood was up. I had to finish it and find out what was up this vertical cave.
Plaid
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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So, Your Plaidness, kindly elucidate us: is that truly the entrance to Mordor?
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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It's cleaned up and it doesn't have a secret door or anything. Anyone with the will to brave the darkness my enter. No orc, dwarfs, hobbits, elves, or such. But there is a pack rat that keeps eating my webbing on my anchor up there. I am going to install chain and unless he has steel teeth that should take care of the little bastard!
Here is a pic of the upper entrance. It is natural. I call it The Window To Heaven.
I have removed all the loose rock so it's not a death route anymore. You do need several headlamps to see in there. But you can leave your swords and magic sticks at home.
Plaid
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MisterE
Social climber
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May 10, 2013 - 10:19am PT
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Sandstone with conglomerate bump:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2013 - 11:38am PT
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like
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 10, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
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Freakin' Flakes
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MisterE
Social climber
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May 10, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
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THE POWER OF THE CHOSS COMPELS YOU...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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I feel oddly forced to post this up. Not sure why...
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MisterE
Social climber
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May 11, 2013 - 12:44am PT
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Did I mention I have Sedona choss pictures for days? I'm baaaack!
I miss Jeremy - meh.
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MisterE
Social climber
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May 11, 2013 - 01:00am PT
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Choss requires intense concentration:
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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May 11, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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Here is some cold snowy choss. I'm gunna introduce my son to some classic Columbia River Gorge choss tomorrow. Should be fun.
Plaid
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2013 - 01:37am PT
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choss descents?...
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MisterE
Social climber
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May 11, 2013 - 01:39am PT
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Poles are aid.
Plaidman, the ushering-in of the next generation of thick-headed masochists is a wonderful ritual.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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May 11, 2013 - 10:54am PT
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My son came up with a couple of lame excuses.
I will not relent. He will climb choss.
It is in his blood. he is destined or fated to climb the crumbly stuff.
fated
Web definitions
doomed: (usually followed by `to') determined by tragic fate; "doomed to unhappiness"; "fated to be... a glorious choss monster.
Plaid
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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May 11, 2013 - 11:11am PT
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CHOSS RATING
there might be some consensus.
Choss II 5.6P2 BD 4
something like this refers to choss rubble factor, grade of climbing , Pucker factor for leader and Belayer Death factor
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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May 11, 2013 - 11:22am PT
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Lucky Pink your Choss Rating may have some merit.
There is a chimney that I would like to put up a route in.
I have been musing about how to protect my belayer. I may just have to rope solo it.
A Death Factor 4 seems stiff. I doubt that many sane climbers would even be willing to do it. That's OK I know some really crazy folks. There is always somebody!
But getting back to my previous dilemma:
Searching for the next Choss Monster. Maybe my daughter. She may be THE ONE.
Plaid
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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May 11, 2013 - 11:31am PT
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sweet, Plaid! as you can see I bloat the belayer death factor.. as I am USUALLY the belayer for choss.. or the one holding the phone to call rescue,
Look askance and suggest a mouth guard.
Harrison Hood and Ken Stanton 4/19/2013
best thing about choss is you can take some of the route home with you, as Ken says, souvenir holds.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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May 12, 2013 - 12:50am PT
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We climbed Pillars of Hercules and Rooster Rock. Super fun day. It's solid choss.
Plaid
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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May 14, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
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if the pin you,re driving busts the rock before it could hold body weight, are you just chipping?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 12, 2013 - 12:53am PT
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Jun 12, 2013 - 03:54am PT
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Choss is better served cold.
Plaid
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Jun 13, 2013 - 12:55am PT
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i like my choss hot and sweaty, wondering if that droplet of sweat off yer brow will be the straw that breaks the camel's (and yer own) back. i like it sandy and loose and exposed. i like it solo. i like it with a partner - though not many a choss-o-phile phiner than Sal Paradise be found.
i like it sedimentary and i just moved to a more volcanic environ. wish me luck as i string some lines and figure some cracks for what they are. new routes abound here, just a matter of some love for the loose.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jun 13, 2013 - 12:57am PT
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Into The Great Loose Yonder
A variation on a classic from the crumbly-minded.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2013 - 01:15am PT
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Into the choss called pooo.
A climber without a clue.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 13, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jun 24, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
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Well, I can't compete with Mike's mud tower there^^ but we got our claws into some super fun choss this weekend... although when you enjoy it as much as we did it sort of gets some demerits.
First time climbing at "The Fortress" in Sespe Gorge. At first the sandstone seemed too good of quality to report, but P2 of the first arete climb of the day offered up a nice guillotine flake (that fell directly on the belay when I cleaned it) and a good 20 feet of creaking, teetering blocks to climb up at the summit so we knew we'd struck gold. This is So Cal's best kept super-secret choss-pile. The Fortress won't be winning most people's popularity vote, but me and E are in LOVE!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Sep 24, 2013 - 01:16am PT
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Chossua Tree
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Sep 24, 2013 - 01:26am PT
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First time climbing at "The Fortress" in Sespe Gorge.
Ah, yes, the Fortress of Choss
I haven't been back since sampling it once, but apparently we didn't do the 'better rock' routes.
Sure, that's what they all say to get you to give it another try...
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Sep 24, 2013 - 09:45am PT
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Beach Choss
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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Yecht!
that looks morbidly horrible
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speelyei
Trad climber
Kingman, Arizona
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All you Oregon choss-meisters need to dredge out your coveted copy of Nick Dodges "How-to-get-dead in Oregon". Rabbit Ears, the Steeple, Apocalypse Needles, old favorites like the Turkey Monster... I finally got out to Twin Pillars. Even wrote the first ascensionist. F that. I'll choose life.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 13, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
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MisterE
climber
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Nov 13, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
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speelyei
Trad climber
Kingman, Arizona
Nov 9, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
All you Oregon choss-meisters need to dredge out your coveted copy of Nick Dodges "How-to-get-dead in Oregon". Rabbit Ears, the Steeple, Apocalypse Needles, old favorites like the Turkey Monster... I finally got out to Twin Pillars. Even wrote the first ascensionist. F that. I'll choose life.
And then there is Pete Keane's guide to aid climbing the "more obscure" routes at Smith Rock - I used to have a copy.
Any route in that book could easily kill you.
Good times - thanks, Pete.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 13, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 15, 2013 - 11:05am PT
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Nov 15, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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Placebo pro?? ^^^
We got some bling for my license plate.
I'll post a photo soon...
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Nov 17, 2013 - 08:59am PT
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Now all I need is a Sedona sticker.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 17, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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Proud.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 17, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 17, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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Murphy's Gulch in Mammoth Lakes (BTW nice photes of TBC's up there ^^).
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thebravecowboy
climber
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Apr 14, 2014 - 01:02am PT
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my pockets are full of fresh mature sand today, and i know i'm happy. that may be the CO plateau's finest powders speaking, though.
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thebravecowboy
climber
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Apr 14, 2014 - 01:38am PT
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in short, yes.
i'd love to sample your wares Dipers - NZ alpine? if you ever make it to the Plateau i would love to show you my perspective. sedimentary rocks, tectonic stability, etc.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Apr 14, 2014 - 12:18pm PT
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It's choss season again! Here's a few shots from Friday's outing to Vail, the one in Washington, not Colorado. It's a new FRAC area, a nice addition to SW Washington's sparse climbing offerings.
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MisterE
climber
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Apr 14, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
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Off, VBW3? ;)
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Apr 14, 2014 - 12:43pm PT
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No E, it's pretty soft on the old BushWack scale; no poison oak and we used a pair of pruners to take a couple of inconvenient bushes down a peg, at least for this season. There's a few spots of mosscapades, and an unpleasant dirty start to one pitch, but the routes are not half bad. New stuff requires a Master Gardener certification though, we need an army of energizer bunnies to realize the potential of the area, which features a number of other untouched crags.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 14, 2014 - 01:00pm PT
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'Mosscapades', indeed! Used to drive by what you so cavalierly call 'crags' BITD and I
believe I am unanimous in asserting that I never once casted a sideways glance at that 'stuff'.
But you are to be commended for getting out on yer weekends away from the nuthouse!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 16, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
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This set goes out to MisterE and Chossed, the Maid.
I spent several years in SoCal. I'm not just a local Yosemite climber. The Ventura area was my home base in the eighties. I got over to the Valley quite a lot and liked it more than the climbing in the Sespe.When I think of Box Canyon, I'm reminded of how much water it took to erode the rock which formed the sediment and came to be the Chatsworth Choss as we know it.
Too bad that dam didn't work out, boys: It's a nice hang for the geese on their yearly migration, though. Honk!
Jim Shirley photographs here, even if my name is on them. I scanned his slides.
He lived in Box Canyon much of his life (he's over in Simi Valley now) and had "chossed the best old times" by inviting friends to accompany him on his efforts to get to know the routology of the area. I was one. Tony Bird was another. Maureen (pictured) was another. The rest were probably RCS members, as was he for a time.
These hillsides are burned over regularly and flocks of wild goats have grazed here for decades, unmolested by the residents, some of whom are cool satanists, the ex-wives of celebrities, and other SoCal types, but no Hare Krishnas.
The famous "Movie Ranch" is around here, above the old abandoned reservoir. [Click to View YouTube Video]We must have climbed some of these "natural sets" in our wandering about out there, but mostly hung about just in the steeper cliff areas on its periphery. Nice views from up there.
They were trad and top-rope routes, not bouldering, that we sought out. Jim bouldered some in his back yard, but did more trail running in his spare time.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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May 16, 2014 - 02:54pm PT
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Good choss right there Mouse.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 16, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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My local choss on the county line.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 23, 2014 - 11:27am PT
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Photos taken while conducting a safety meeting with Mig Bike and Sandra and crew at Facelift.
Once we were safely wasted, we all thought, "Such a waste."
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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My brother just found some old photos of a serious choss route we did back in the 1990s, the south face of Cabezon Peak in New Mexico. At the time, we were both living in Albuquerque. Looks like we accidentally followed the same line as the 1974 ascent by the UNM Mountaineering Club.
Volcanic plugs are a bit chossy by nature, but the final death pitch (5.7x) was on vertical ash conglomerate. My brother trailed a rope when he led the final death pitch, but there was no one watching the other end of the rope. There was no belay at the bottom and no protection on the pitch. We huddled under small overhangs and tried to stay out the avalanche of rocks that he was sending down from the ash.
The summit was a steep scree slope without any solid rocks for a belay. My brother made a useless scree bollard for a belay anchor, and gave us a psychological top rope, which we didn't realize until we, too, reached the summit.
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MisterE
climber
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Jun 24, 2014 - 07:12am PT
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Convict Lake choss bump!
Git sum.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 24, 2014 - 11:57pm PT
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Ah, Laurel Mountain... I love heading up onto that face and wandering around. Quite a geology lesson.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 25, 2014 - 09:40pm PT
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have been able to hang off this Pinnacle out in Malibu!
hence "Malibu pinnacle"!
total! choss!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
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Jun 25, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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Anybody here been up or down the gulley (indicated) on the left?
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
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Mega Boulders at Lincoln Lake, CO
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
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Jul 10, 2014 - 07:13pm PT
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OK I guess bouldering is bouldering. Here's another choss pile I was scoping out around Glacier Gorge, RMNP Colorado.
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MisterE
climber
|
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Jul 10, 2014 - 08:14pm PT
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Major, horrifying Choss:
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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Jul 10, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
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kind of solid looking choss there MisterE? ^^^
Maybe its pre-choss?
In need of a million years more weathering?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 12:19am PT
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TROLL!
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MisterE
climber
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Jul 11, 2014 - 12:28am PT
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^^Please, oh please don't report me to the Grossman thread!?!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
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Jul 12, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
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Jul 12, 2014 - 09:54pm PT
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 12, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jul 14, 2014 - 09:20pm PT
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Chossa mania. Heading to the Cascades, anyone done three-fingered jack?
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thebravecowboy
climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
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Jul 15, 2014 - 08:01am PT
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jul 15, 2014 - 08:27am PT
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Did someone mention 3 Fingered Jack?
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
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See how even this innocent little outcropping is totally fractured into loose blocks. That's why there's still so much untapped choss potential in the Black.
Including long routes. The painted wall is about 2000' high. The narrowness of the canyon means you have another big wall right behind you.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
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ya'll need help
no, for realz!
:)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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A little Idaho Sawtooth Mt. Choss from a hike up to Sawtooth Lake last week.
The most impressive is un-named, but I think it deserves a ST contributor name. Mt. Rottenjohnney.
Then there are the "Big Black Dykes" surrounded by more fine Idaho Choss.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2014 - 07:02pm PT
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That first one Fritz, looks like hell!
The second one with the intrusive dykes, well that just looks perfect!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Mungeclimber: The Big Black Dykes are just down from Mt. RottenJohnney and maybe the dykes are not rotten. Everything else along this ridgeline is really, really, rotten.
The sand & gravel slopes below the rotten ridgeline.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2014 - 11:50am PT
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hummocks and blocks and gravel, oh my
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Stevee B
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Tim Messick, following the fourth class northwest ridge of Mount Maclure, on the way to Mount Lyell.
Like dancin' on dinner plates .... Yeah Baby!
Descended this line Saturday. No bueno.
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Mad69Dog
Ice climber
|
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The stone in the photos above looks totally bomber.
Do you have topos?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
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Untouched, a few minutes by dirt road off 395.
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MisterE
climber
Bishop, CA
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*raises hand*
Is it OK to say I am kind of over it?
I have loved and lost choss.
In retrospect it was a masochistic relationship...
which is OK, I am a climber - masochism is kind of built in.
I have found a new, granitic perspective that is less loose...
Go ahead, hate on me. :(
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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No hate here!
Here is a Choss classic!
Plaid
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2014 - 07:21pm PT
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Biotch, I don't see the lines drawn on the topo. What did you send? :)
MisterE, it's ok. We all go thru phases. Chosstel California.
Plaidy, always good to see the nordern choss.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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Lotta good choss (?!) over there in The Oregon.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Skully we got Choss upon Choss.
I started a new magazine called Moss and Choss
Plaid
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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Munge Gets Some.....Nice. He loves that shizz, man.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2014 - 10:06pm PT
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Big choss is always on the horizon.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Choss Monster at work on St. Peter's Dome.
Plaid
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Bump!
Sedona choss rules!!
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feynman
Trad climber
chossberta
|
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Southern Canadian Rockies choss - coal seams and smellable sulfur are always bad indicators of quality rock. At least we didn't need to worry about a pin hammer - pick a rock at will….
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
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... some moss with your choss Mr. Plaidman?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Plaid, don't I belong on yer editorial board?
Dave Whitelaw at work on the Left Norwegian Buttress, Mt Index.
I know it looks good here but it is deceptive. This shizz is really brittle
and sceary which mostly explains the decided lack of activity up there.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Oct 21, 2014 - 04:28pm PT
|
Bump!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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Oct 21, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
|
crunch, that is a total pile...nice job
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thebravecowboy
climber
hold on tight boys
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Oct 21, 2014 - 06:19pm PT
|
that's some quality stuff, folks!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
|
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Oct 21, 2014 - 07:19pm PT
|
I need to get out and get some more material for the newest edition of "Moss and Choss"
Yall know I live in Chosstopia(that's Oregon for all Ya that didn't know).
Plaid
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
|
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Oct 21, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
|
[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photoid=383390]id=383390]id=383390]id=383390]id=383390]id=383390]id=383390]id=383390]id=383390]id=383390]id=383390]
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thebravecowboy
climber
hold on tight boys
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Oct 21, 2014 - 10:14pm PT
|
that is a pretty hot mossy hole there Plaid
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
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Oct 22, 2014 - 04:31am PT
|
...smellable sulfur...
Rockfall always has the smell of death, IMHO
Love this thread
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
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Oct 22, 2014 - 05:15am PT
|
Wait just a minute whats going in there ?
It looks to me that plaidmans on his knees and getting a drink..
with aiders?... hmm ... oh, I guess now I see It
kool shot
what a hole!!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 22, 2014 - 05:36am PT
|
No one will ever find it never mind climbit
and if I had some on to take my picture I would go climbing for real
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
|
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Oct 22, 2014 - 06:16am PT
|
^^ east coast has smaller choss, lol.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
|
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Oct 29, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
(there's a climbing gym in VA that has bells like this at the top of each route, lol)
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jonnyrig
climber
|
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|
Oct 29, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
|
Tempting... like a shot of good whiskey when it's 30 below...
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Kristoffer
climber
mali, africa
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H, regarding your photo of Laurel with the arrow, I flew down through that south eastern gully and I must say its quite a nasty place. For the most part anywhere the stone is red on Mt Laurel only means the devil lives there. The gray bands are not much better either. I remember being quite nervous for the few moments I was locked into that gully before I had enough altitude to clear the ridgeline and escape. The face of the mountain is sick, if you’re into that kind of crap.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
|
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Nov 14, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H asked:
Anybody here been up or down the gulley (indicated) on the left?
That's the Pinner Couloir on Laurel. I've only looked down into it, haven't gone up or down it yet.
Very easy to find beta and photos, if you search for it by name.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
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|
Nov 14, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
|
Great Basin NP. Federal Choss!!
|
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
|
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|
Jan 29, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
|
Over a thousand kilometers of prime choss with beautiful ocean views!
Magnificient. And could that be a shark a little up from the bottom?
Who can name the area?
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jonnyrig
climber
|
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Feb 17, 2015 - 10:49pm PT
|
I see choss people. They're everywhere!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
|
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|
May 21, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2015 - 10:08pm PT
|
Survival and Crunch, my gawd that's some choss!
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
|
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|
May 30, 2015 - 11:17am PT
|
Like climbing the butt-ends of logs sticking out of the side of a woodpile - on a basalt dike in the Blue Mtns. of Oregon - choss-tacaular!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
|
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|
Jul 26, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
|
Here's a really fun ridge traverse I did yesterday. Considered 4th Class, but it's definitely R-rated. The route sees mostly hikers. I was passed by a guy wearing a complete ranger-style khaki hiking uniform - I'm sure you've encountered these people on normal trails, but this ridge was just a pile of loose choss. (I didn't make the video, just did the same route)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
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|
Sep 28, 2015 - 07:57pm PT
|
On the clock with a pack full of rocks. In Chacs.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
|
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|
Oct 11, 2015 - 09:06pm PT
|
Ritter from the west ...
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
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|
Nov 16, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
|
I mean I coulda backed it up on those perfect .1 cracks visible in favor of the fatty summit sling.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
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|
Nov 17, 2015 - 08:02am PT
|
Devils Punchbowl Choss 11d. Drone shot.
|
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
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|
Nov 17, 2015 - 08:11am PT
|
Wow, cool devil's punchbowl shot!
|
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
|
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|
Nov 17, 2015 - 08:21am PT
|
Hey BIOTCH,
We were approaching Banner once and watching a guy up on that face solo.
He was about 2/3's of the way up towards the right side.
All of a sudden, just below the summit, a car sized chunk cut loose. The guy was directly in the fall line.
He heard it , looked up, and just pasted his body into the rock.
We were freaking out and I know exactly how he was feeling, even more gripped.
He was looking into the face of death.
The chunk disintegrated into many pieces and dislodged even more rock, as they have a habit of doing.
As the fall reached him the dust cloud obscured our view.
We waited what seemed like forever.
The dust settled and there he was!!!
He started down just as fast as he could!
Whew.
We continued on and bagged Banner.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
|
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|
Jan 24, 2016 - 05:17pm PT
|
Neapolitan choss bump
|
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
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|
Jan 25, 2016 - 10:21am PT
|
I keep forgetting to add COLD COLD COLD OUT OF FOCUS
|
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2016 - 09:45pm PT
|
FB friend Indonesia ...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2016 - 10:01pm PT
|
Indonesia scares me now.
|
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
|
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|
Aug 21, 2016 - 12:21pm PT
|
All this alpine choss is in the Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado.
Here's the beta on the Y Couloir route on Ypsilon.
The colors of the Blitzen Ridge (5.4) blend in with the alpine tundra thousands of feet below. About 1/4 mile of the ridge can be seen in this picture.
The Donner Ridge is 4th class, but huge and definitely made out of choss!
I have no idea if anyone has climbed the north face of Mt Chiquita, in summer or winter. For sure, it's choss.
Terra Tomah Mtn is so hard to get to, I doubt there has been much climbing done on it. The wall on the north face is about 500' high.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
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moi, commencing the FA of the Taint Abrader Ridge, blade pk 12/31/16
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2017 - 12:28am PT
|
I know sh#t rock. Sir, that is sh#t rock.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
|
|
Sounds like it ain't fer the faint of taint, there bravecowboy . . .
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
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Is it still chipping if the perineum does the trundling?
Paintin' the town brown ain't easy but somebody hadda do it.
|
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
that's some good looking sh#t DMT. I mean, like, that shitty rock looks like the sh#t.
No, seriously, that fluvial crumble-cake looks delicious.
I done did some solo sailing on the muck that accumulated 'neath the Cretaceous interior seaway, yesterday, and it was dirty. Like Type III fun kinda dirty.
the line.
four hours to go 60'. nailing with that buzz-buzz 'bibratin' on down through the feetholds, just knowin' that the whole right side of the line, of the tower, is ready to calve off and chop your belay, your dog, and your damn-fool self. pure pleasure [post-facto!]
I pulled enough sh#t off that my tag line was almost completely buried by the time I topped out.
don't tell anyone but this thing is ripe for the FFA
The route name is inspired by a local eatery and $9/gal petrol stop, and the rank Selenium-stink of the Mancos dust as it adhered to my bleeding cuticles, alveoli and nasal canals, climbing gear, dog and life.
My second-third time driving out to IC, Papa Joe's/Jo Mama's had just been re-kindled as a cash extractor for the unwary, and my buddy, a local, said: "What?! I think I took a sh#t behind that place once when it was defunct." Anywhoo, avoid Papa Joe and Co., and just keep drivin' to better rock.......
the hike out really hurt my eyes
besides the collection of clay in my pockets, in my tag-bag, and that injected into my climbing-gear softgoods, the bodily collection of sediment was significant, eh?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
|
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Dingus
YER
GONNA
DIE.....
|
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
From the "other side of the pond" limestone choss,
If I remember it was "The central groove" went through where the scar is.
TBC, it reads like a country song
I left Ma' last words fo ya' at ' Jo Mammas"
then saw the light up the very top of my last crumbling ridge-
Don't follow in my foot-falls ,
I brought the last hollow walls down on my own self,
While alone
You take a shower?
The spas in Sedona charge $300.0 a sitting to coat half as much of your skin,
And they don't provide the phisio or the cardio . . . .
^214,[=488455
488
396, same rox, high-lite right side wetness
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
I been chewin' on this here brownie, people, and I think it's almost 'tru
I'm talkin' about soybeans people!
let's cruise the chocolat stew, whoooohoooo youooo-oooh-ooooh-ooooh
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2017 - 07:37am PT
|
Dingus, yes sir. I'm in. When?
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Jkruse
Trad climber
Las Cruces, NM
|
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|
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:24am PT
|
Desert choss!
|
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
|
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|
Feb 24, 2017 - 07:24pm PT
|
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H, are those in Red Rock Canyon State Park (California)?
That stuff looks so glorious,
yet so depressing (literally and figuratively)
when placing a hand upon them.
|
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Choss remains Boss!
|
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2017 - 10:57am PT
|
Nice DMT!
|
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
|
copy, Red 2 standing by.
|
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
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|
Apr 15, 2017 - 07:30pm PT
|
An awesome mini-Ship Rock outside Kayenta.
|
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
|
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|
May 10, 2017 - 12:50pm PT
|
^ only youtube videos.
|
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
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|
May 10, 2017 - 01:54pm PT
|
give me (a top anchor and) a lever large enough and I'll turn choss to bullet, clean classics. Or a dustpile.
|
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
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|
May 11, 2017 - 03:47pm PT
|
Some nice lines in the Grand Canyon! The trouble is this wall is right
above the Bright Angel Trail so the Rangers might take a dim view of any
cleaning activity.
A stunning choss pinnacle with only a two day approach! (about 40')
|
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
|
May 11, 2017 - 06:18pm PT
|
not all junky either
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
|
|
|
May 13, 2017 - 11:33pm PT
|
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|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
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|
May 16, 2017 - 05:26pm PT
|
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|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
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|
May 16, 2017 - 05:28pm PT
|
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|
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
|
May 16, 2017 - 05:29pm PT
|
Yeah no.
|
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
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|
May 16, 2017 - 06:26pm PT
|
oh, but yes
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
|
May 16, 2017 - 06:43pm PT
|
choss ville.
|
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
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|
May 31, 2017 - 02:01pm PT
|
Oh yeah.
Munge, fringe&untroddeded
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
May 31, 2017 - 02:09pm PT
|
Uncorked.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2017 - 02:15pm PT
|
Foolish Fringe Fracking in Fahrenheit?
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
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|
May 31, 2017 - 02:23pm PT
|
Forever ;)
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
|
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|
May 31, 2017 - 03:08pm PT
|
'Throbbing Gristle'.....choss envy, Munge?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2017 - 10:53pm PT
|
Chossticular Cancer?
Some lovely veg over here...
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
Funky and Furry
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2017 - 10:54pm PT
|
This weekend? If so, wow! Looks 'cooking'!
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
Yep, we were surprised to be on top with a few 5.7 moves and 2 bolts. Cook ran out a mossy finish. Just your cup of tea.
Brushing off the rat sh#t from the starting holds was classic Pinnacles.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
Lawrence of Wimbledon.
Wider shot of slot.
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
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|
Sep 13, 2017 - 04:35am PT
|
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|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
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|
Sep 14, 2017 - 07:49am PT
|
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|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2017 - 08:02am PT
|
Chatsworth Chawss.
Spahn Ranch country. Rocketdyne, too.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2017 - 08:40am PT
|
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|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2017 - 09:47am PT
|
I recognize that rock Spider.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2017 - 11:33am PT
|
Looks like Pinns rock in Spider's pic.
|
|
Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2017 - 11:57am PT
|
There actually is a route on this thing, and it is CHOSSY!
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2017 - 01:00pm PT
|
As it happens, there's a road nearly to their base.
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2017 - 01:36pm PT
|
Steelhead Pass, Humphreys Basin, Sierra Nevada
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2017 - 11:52pm PT
|
"Everything was everlastingly loose and responsive, it was all everywhere beyond the truth, beyond emptyspace blue.
'The mountains are mighty patient, Buddha-man,' I said out loud, and took a drink."
--JK, The Dharma Bums
|
|
jonnyrig
climber
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2017 - 08:21am PT
|
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|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Oct 17, 2017 - 03:22pm PT
|
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2017 - 08:11am PT
|
there's some sidewalks, full of cracks, out there on the edge of reason.
pushing for those rare windswept skyline notches, I removed more or less 333 lbs trundled/pitch over first 3. still gotta do some powdery wizardry for the finish.
there's still some wild left in this world. let's go put a harpoon in that white whale. I am Ahab.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2017 - 09:56am PT
|
Munge, Last pointed tower,route is just right of right skyline.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2017 - 10:02am PT
|
The lower half.
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
another one bites the dust, or: more silt ripples in the tub
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2017 - 12:14am PT
|
wow Clinker!!! That's a treat!
You guys already start on it?
I got a new hand drill. :)
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
Yep, raining on our plans to finish it up.
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
Nothing beats a day climbing caked brown sugar
Chose on!
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
JC and KC climbed this last weekend.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
Finished Long in the Tooth today.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2017 - 10:35pm PT
|
Congrats!!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2017 - 11:19pm PT
|
got done, eh?
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2017 - 06:16am PT
|
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2017 - 08:58am PT
|
Nice choss filled day yesterday.
|
|
Jkruse
Trad climber
Las Cruces, NM
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2017 - 09:49am PT
|
City of Rocks in SW New Mexico. Amazing location of chossy boulders begging to be climbed. Most boulders show zero signs of ascent, so you just waltz around and climb what looks fun. There are a few classics mixed in there.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2017 - 10:51am PT
|
nice NM choss reference! Obscure delightful location.
Drive up bouldering. What's not to like?
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2018 - 12:32pm PT
|
Compulsive & repulsive.
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2018 - 07:32pm PT
|
entrada in mine eyes
the good gear before the beaks
|
|
madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2018 - 09:39pm PT
|
^^^ Loving it!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2018 - 07:38pm PT
|
HOOK!!!!
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2018 - 02:58pm PT
|
JC torquing the bolts after the FA before lunch.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2018 - 03:02pm PT
|
Pinnchoss4lyfe.com
|
|
RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2018 - 08:17pm PT
|
No It Doesn't, Mister Munge ~ not ever...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2018 - 09:49pm PT
|
seems like a siren to me.
Almost went to climb on mud today. Maybe I'll try for sandstone tomorrow.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2018 - 04:38pm PT
|
My daughter Rose may be getting hooked.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2018 - 10:05pm PT
|
Hood of the Cobra! Modern day classic!
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2018 - 04:42pm PT
|
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2018 - 07:17pm PT
|
Japanese CHOSS Takatoriyama in Yokosuka Japan.
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2018 - 07:20pm PT
|
Dry toolin some choss same place in Japan.
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2018 - 07:21pm PT
|
Everything we trundled off of this gem of choss:
Became building materials.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Mar 16, 2018 - 09:36am PT
|
Hey Munge, can you guess which one of the upcoming chossters in the pic above is the boss.
:)
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2018 - 08:16pm PT
|
Clink, hands on hips wins every time.
Kingtut, can do
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2018 - 07:38am PT
|
Scrotal Augmentation Therapy, new route to open and clean, GU, an enticing mixed line
|
|
Don Paul
Gym climber
Denver CO
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2018 - 06:30am PT
|
|
|
mrgooseskin
Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2018 - 07:38am PT
|
The third pitch of West Side Story on Cottontail in the Fishers is darn chossy, even for the Fishers.
|
|
rockies_alpine
Ice climber
Calgary
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2018 - 11:13am PT
|
Four words that should terrify anyone rational: Canadian Rockies terrain belay
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2018 - 02:42pm PT
|
We took the 4H group out to Crud and Mud.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
May 11, 2018 - 05:18pm PT
|
Yesterday with JC and Brad.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2018 - 05:31pm PT
|
Delicious!
|
|
hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
|
|
|
May 11, 2018 - 08:30pm PT
|
i marvel at the abrupt transition,
but good luck plucking even the rattley shards.like a loose tooth they almost all cling stubbornly,
but qualify by the sound they make as choss
even if the grass below lacks detritus
true grit
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 11, 2018 - 10:39pm PT
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^^^^^ For the love of Mary! That looks like something I shoveled off me lawn!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 12, 2018 - 10:15am PT
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This clean'd up nicely.
It took a few visits over some time and wire brushing with special sauce I wonder if it will see a 'second' ascent?
Especially when the drools freeze up, there is a pattern Much like the 'Face'created by those mungy streaks.
In winter it is a skull-like visage,when viewed from far away.
Tami, This is that "Lazy Boy" Parking Lot
where'at this crag-rhatz"Rescue" took place.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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May 22, 2018 - 10:17am PT
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equatorial choss bump
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jun 10, 2018 - 02:14pm PT
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Hey Munge, it's choss training.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jun 10, 2018 - 02:19pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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“Mr Plaidman. Will Mr Plaidman please come to the Norwegian courtesy phone?”
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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^ ^ ^^ ^^ ^^ ^ ^I see good lines from the bottom, but would head up the right skyline to drop in from near the top, head down across tro the middle center of the wall
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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Aug 23, 2018 - 08:55pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2018 - 10:13pm PT
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Clinker, i dunno. Looks suspiciously like granite.
Zay, sik!!!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Aug 24, 2018 - 02:28am PT
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Just a place we stop at sometimes to practice, on the way to Pinnacles.
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Aug 24, 2018 - 07:19am PT
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I have to confess I've been mentally stalking this thing called the Golden Pillar of Spantik. Looks like an alpine el cap but only report I can find says the face is made of shale. It's pretty steep though.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Aug 24, 2018 - 07:26am PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 11, 2018 - 05:01pm PT
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More love for Pinnacles.
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Sep 13, 2018 - 06:35pm PT
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ChossLovers don't mind double bumps of their favorite sauce:
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Sep 13, 2018 - 09:24pm PT
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^^ WTF
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Sep 14, 2018 - 09:22am PT
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northern san juans, Erik?
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Sep 16, 2018 - 09:24pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
from somewhere on p2, looked like single point bail anchor behind shaky compact cd player (heh, daaa-ayted!) size wedged flake in dirty #3 crack
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Sep 16, 2018 - 09:28pm PT
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Put it back in the rock.... somewhere?
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Sep 16, 2018 - 09:30pm PT
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pint taken re: credit where it is due, and it did lead me to the best way, but I need to know who/how GE was what it was...
fwiw I did stank in a couple recycled pins for my (hidden) retreat point, all things being dust and all.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Sep 16, 2018 - 09:52pm PT
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Yeah! Love it
Edit: you cleaned it... didn't you? cool
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Sep 16, 2018 - 10:09pm PT
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have not cleaned or scrubbed the pin I pulled nor did I do extensive manual cleaning of the route.
I think you'd like this cliff, and there are like two or three nice looking splitters to be yet had. best part: 12 minute approach.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Sep 16, 2018 - 10:12pm PT
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Nice!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2018 - 10:18pm PT
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Mouse, which slot is that? Is that at the grotto on east side? We always figured it had been done, but no one published in later years because of wanting to keep the Grotto in pretty shape for the tourists. A show of good faith I figure.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Sep 30, 2018 - 12:14pm PT
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chossy dreams bump, gotta return for to hit the high point and finish the crescent into the water-worn declivity (and stemming, stemming, stemming at last: less face!)
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Sep 30, 2018 - 05:59pm PT
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Batrock and I put up another new one, 3 pitch deal on some good ole choss.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 14, 2018 - 02:52pm PT
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Heat treated trail crew.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 14, 2018 - 03:37pm PT
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A sampling of Fridays climber volunteer crew.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Oct 17, 2018 - 09:28pm PT
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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Oct 18, 2018 - 10:11am PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2018 - 10:16am PT
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Zay, that crack is like 3 stars! heh
I was also pleasantly surprised by the moves.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Oct 18, 2018 - 10:22am PT
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The lure of the pile is strong
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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Oct 18, 2018 - 10:29am PT
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Munge,
Super fun route indeed! When I told Brad we climbed it, he asked (regarding the second pitch):
"Is it still 10a!?"
It is!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Dec 30, 2018 - 06:06pm PT
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solo FA ofanother usgs named summit. rack included peckers thru angles to pika crud hooks, timberspikes, hexes ballnuts and cams to 6".
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 30, 2018 - 06:23pm PT
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What the hell is keeping THAT up there?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Zacatecas Mexico
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 17, 2019 - 11:02am PT
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The slot was on the side of Pinns, Munge. No name, no clue other than that. Many years in the past.
As are my mems of this POS, the U-Shaped Bowl on MCR.Evil, wicked, mean, and nasty to haul thru. Fuggit.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 17, 2019 - 12:06pm PT
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Ravens Crest at Sugar Hollow
The Patio(Left,Side) & Ravens Crest
All at the Sugar Hollow; what is a small cirque, located in an
artificially expanded valley at the end of a continuous ridge along
Rt7, across from an active shooting range, 3 miles from the Danbury Airpot.
There is no justiceAnd little to no
Further Reward
for walking any farther
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 06:50pm PT
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Apr 21, 2019 - 04:42pm PT
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LOL at the tshirt/movie line from Munge faaar back in the thread:
Silence of the Mosses
"It belays under the roof, or it gets the loose rock again!"
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Apr 22, 2019 - 05:51am PT
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Thanks for keeping the dream alive people. This thread is the best!
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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Apr 22, 2019 - 10:13am PT
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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May 29, 2019 - 08:13am PT
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Last post to Supertopo on one of my favorite threads. Yours truly 2 days ago churning in the choss high above the mighty Columbia at Wallula Gap. Stepped on a rattlesnake on the hike out. I'll miss the witty banter. If you need any details on climbing chossy basalt and not-so-chossy andesite in SE WA and NE OR, feel free to give me a holler.
http://people.whitman.edu/~pogue/climbing/
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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May 29, 2019 - 08:21am PT
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Working a new 5.13 rig at the Punchbowl.
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