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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 23, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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I hereby dedicate this thread to some wildly remote and underappreciated bouldering areas that deserves a little bit of goddamn respect. The endless jewels of Wayne County, Utah, Colorado Plateau, United States of America.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
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Anybody else climbed here? It's worthy.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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Not to worry Cosmic, I have photos of topless females crushing V6's there like nobody's business. Hope the h8ers can cope.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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This one is killer. The center route on The Brain. Furious, hard slapper moves from one sloper to another out a roof, desperately heel hooking all the way, and just when you start to feel pumped you have to deal with this hideous crimpfest finish. Visiting SLC people swore it was V6. We called it Big Rocks 5.11c. Snow-covered 12,000-foot high plateau mountains in the background.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 23, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
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I Love BIG ROCKS and undersung areas!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 23, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
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I'm lichen it!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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This problem is still one of my all-time favorites. Powercrimps through a bulge, some letterbox slots in the steep, then a knee-knocking finish on slopers with a leg-cracking landing. I don't think I ever named it. What was the point? At this stage I'd been bouldering there day after day, week after week, alone, for over 7 years. the only climber for miles. Closest other climbers were in Moab, 160 miles away. The new Wayne County guidebook calls it V4 X.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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It's the price of being an American Legend. Shit's expensive, right?
I'm digging on yer pics.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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So it's in Arizona?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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This is The Whiffleball. A bit spicy, but nbd. Swear to God we had like 15 problems lined up side-by-side on this spectacularly good little nugget. Here is Jocelyn airing it out a bit. Wish I had a better scanner 'cause this does not do it justice. Apparently some of the problems -- including this one -- have become lame-ass three-bolt sport routes. Next time I go there those bolts are history.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
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I know a guy that does bolt removal, for a small fee. ;)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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An entirely worthy warm-up. Early March 2004? Even at 7,500 feet, if the sun is out and there's no wind you're in there. It's nice and cool in the summer, too. Love this private playground.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
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Another bad scanned photo of a swank, swank boulder: The Rabbit Valley Overhang. There are four problems tacking this stellar roof on bullet stone. This thing is V4 in the new guide; the crack on the right -- Vapor Lock -- is called V5. Buncha 5.11c's if ya ask me. Kids these days...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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Big Rocks from...OUTER SPACE! Great place to eat 'shrooms. All the problems pictured so far are in this snapshot; this snapshot is maybe 1/10th of the total area.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:37am PT
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OMFG BOOBS! Please God don't let t*r become upset with me and petition the BLM to have Big Boobs, er I mean BIG ROCKS quarried to ensure no impressionable young college moisties, uh, I mean freshies, ah, I mean Freshman become ADDICTED to the DEMEANING sport of BOULDERING there! OMFG I am so upset right now I need to go sprinkle some glitter on my copy of "Our Bodies, Ourselves" and cuddle with my Unicorn!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:39am PT
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Cosmic...I sense some objectification coming from you....you'd better cover your O's...RJ
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:16am PT
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Cosmic...Quit stalking me...RJ
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:17am PT
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Great shots and history, Bob - Ah, the salad days...
Erik
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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Red leaf for me, friend. :)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 01:47am PT
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Seriously, there's just no way to go wrong with this fine little stone. The thing I'm on is a thrilling little V3ish problem that pulls an itty bitty roof on hyper-committing slopers. Do. Not. Fall. Best problem EVER goes directly up the middle of the white streak on absurd slopers, then grapples the roof. Scary and very committing at the top. No name, but it's way harder than other problems that have been tagged V5 or V6 by others. I'm thinking...wait for it...you guessed it...BIG ROCKS 5.11c!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 02:24am PT
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Big Rocks is Roof Central. Dozens of 'em. Wish I had more and better photos of these gems. The vast lowball/sitdown potential was never really explored because there were too many untouched looming 20 footers crying out for attention. I think this one is Skull Rock Roof.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 24, 2013 - 02:52am PT
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Whoa, that place looks fun! It looks like the rock quality varies a bit, is that true?
3 bolt sport routes on old boulder problems is definitely lame, though I have to say that my 50+ year old body can't take hard impact falls anymore. But the problems should be there for whoever can do that stuff.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 03:43am PT
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Of course, if you decide on a change of pace and scenery, this place is 30 minutes from Big Rocks and 2,000 feet lower. Hundreds of established problems on damn good Wingate. But really, that's another story.
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weezy
climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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obscure utah blocs bump!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
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Way to go Weezy! La Sals Southside Secret Spot in tha house! 10,000 feet of Alpine goodness with the worse landings on Earth! Is that Gurman in the last photo?
I think I'll broaden the scope of this thread to ALL of the magnificent Whine County, er, I mean WAYNE County! Awapa Plateau, Deepwater Lakecliff bouldering at 11,000 feet on the Aquarius Plateau, Rabbit Valley, all the Wingate Nuggets in CRNP, the Entrada mudboulders aound Hanksville, all of the dozen Henry's area large and small. Oh Vey. Did you know a nice Moenkopi Stone House can be had in Torrey for $80,000? I'm movin' back someday.
Rumor has it there's a little itty bit of slick black pocketed stone around Mount Ellsworth in the Little Rockies...
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weezy
climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
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not gurman in the last photo, bvb. the landings aren't too bad if you have enough pads. the crux is not dropping your car keys or any other small devices into the talus, lol. i have a running goal to do 100 problems in a season up there, but failed twice now. lot harder than i thought it was going to be.
bvb, someone drew me a map for some boulders near the black table mesa in the henrys. have you checked those out? i didn't have enough time the day i was there. also some gnarly woodward slab routes up on the mesa itself apparently.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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Yeah, early on Jonny was trying to con me into going to Black Table (he wanted to kill me and snake Jocelyn) but I'd seen that stuff up close and knew what I was getting into. We checked out those black boulders on the southside of Holmes in the Fall of '93, but at that point we'd found the Horn and were so blown aways we thought "maybe there's something even BETTER?!" But it soon became clear that the Horn was the standout bouldering so that's where we spent most of the next 10 years.
Ever check out any of that sh#t up on Bull Mountain?
Jared Spaulding did a Wayne County Climbing Guide that was published last month, or a month before. "Capitol Gorgeous." Full of errors and omissions re: grades and and forget about corect names or history but at least it gets you to the area and steers you to the good stuff. He did a great job IMO. I think he includes the Cockscomb/Black table boulders but leaves everthing else for the Henries out.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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BVB for the mutha fukkin win.
without boobs.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
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I've got boob shots of women climbing topless up there, but I seriously suspect the ex would go apeshit if I posted 'em. Pity.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
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A better view of The Brain at Big Rocks. Four burly problems take on the overhang/roof, and a really, really good problem is out of view on the backside. You can see Hanna's diaper bag in the foreground, and Kyle is wandering in the back checking out arrowheads. You want good 4WD to get to this thing. Joe Reis did an unrepeated problem out the biggest steepest part called "Mensa." Family bouldering fun! Nice views, too.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 24, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
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Lately I've been thinking about the climbing in AZ, which was never on my radar until I moved to San Diego.
This thread seals the deal: I MUST GO.
What's the guidebook situation like? Anything better than the Wayne County one that was mentioned? Or does one require a tour guide to find these gems?
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weezy
climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
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thanks for the history, bvb. i've always looked up at all the bull mt. "granite" (trachyte? diorite?) on the drive in but never checked it out. looks like a hellish bushwack to get anywhere near the rock up there. i think a buddy of mine has a route up there somewhere, though.
^not bull mt.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
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Great stuff here, keep it up fellas!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
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I am diggin' it too. BeeVeeBee!!!!!6!!!!!
Woot! Sweet thread, maaan.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
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Weezy -- Jonny and Ron Carson and others did some mutli-pitch knee-knockers on Bull Mountain. Others were involved, I'm sure. Gotta imagine The Clan Of Strong Fingers was up there at some point. I think Ralph Ferrera did something up there? If you think info on The Horn is hard to get, forget Bull Mountain. Serious close-to-the-vest action going on up there.
Or so I'm told.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
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Can't let the post-to-photo count get too whacked. I love this photo -- way easy fun problem, the first one we did on the first day we found Big Rocks. June, 1993. Sentimental value, ftw. I think we called it Electric Stairway or something dumb like that. The Ex looks pretty fit for someone who just had a kid 6 months prior!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
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Brooke Sandahl took this photo and stuck it in the Metolius catalog, mostly as an excuse to make a smarmy comment about the attentive spot I'm giving. John Wason eyeballing the hideous V6/7--uh, I mean Big Rocks 5.11c -- crimps that you need to pull just to get established on "Bob's Big Boy" (and no, I didn't name it. The SLC boys tagged it. Pretty sure they were referring to my ego.) This 25 footer has hard moves all the way to the dicey insecure slopefest finish.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 24, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
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Looks sick bvb.
When's the drl tour?
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Cragar
Trad climber
MSLA - MT
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Jan 24, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
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I love that Cassidy Country. A lot of empty coolness.
Nice pics and write-up bvb.
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micronut
Trad climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
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Not Cassidy...but definitely off the map.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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This problem needs to be on every self-respecting climber's bucket list. Maverick's. So named because the thing feels like a wave that's crashing over you, and it was discovered just after Mark Foo's death at Mav's. It gets the big Thumbs Up from ever climber who's seen it -- all 12 of 'em!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
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Meanwhile, 20 miles away in Capitol Reef...
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
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Looks really awesome out there, BVB.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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And then there is The Horn, the Crown Jewel of Wayne County Bouldering and world-class in it's own right, a mere 90 minute drive from Big Rocks, 60 minutes from Capitol Reef, and arguably the most remote bouldering area in the United States. Indeed, Wayne County -- a land area the size Rhode Island, with less than 2,000 residents -- might be the ideal bouldering home base for a quiet, private, humble, introverted man like me.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
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Gud stuff BVB.
This prob is still looking for a second ascent.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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sw0le!
Keep 'em comin', Bob!
+1 on the DRL Tour.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:17am PT
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DAMN Larry! Gonna havta train up for that sh#t.
Meanwhile, back in Capitol Reef...believe it or not, this thing is hard and feels high. Your feet are on the top before it's over, after a horrible insecure mantle. That hold I'm grappling is the world's worst sloper. I mean really, how often has anyone seen me heel hook?!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:30am PT
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But seriously, shoulden't we just hop in the car, drive ten minutes to Torrey, pick up a latte and a copy of The Book Of Morman, glance back east where we can see the Horn, 50 miles away, in a high saddle of the Henry Mountains, then drive another 15 minutes to Big Rocks, and check out that bitchin' Rose Move on Mavericks? We just picked up 2,500 feet of elevation from the Wingate red rock country of Cap Reef, and are now on the windscoured high desert of the Awapa plateau. If there is a more abrupt 30 minute transition in bouldering environs anywhere, I've never seen it. Now about that Rose move...
As you can see by the disarray of gear in the background, this was another family outing. Hanna is exploring caves, Kyles is looking for arrowheads, and Jocelyn is behind the lens. Family Values on the high lonesone plains! Spotters? Bitch, please. My feet are only 15' above the ground.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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Way to show some LOVE, Big Stone! $$$$$$$$
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:51am PT
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I just love the wee ones, Steve. I mean, the BIG STONE is alright and all, but who can pass on the pebbles?!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:53am PT
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E-mail sent, BVB! Someone may go Off!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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Alright Eric! If he does it, and does it with brutal honesty, we'll be either heros of the year or the prime candidate laughingstock inductees in the n00b epic Hall of Fame. Cross yer fingers!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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We all know that the Pebbles ain't right without the Bam-Bam and that's where you come in player!
I always wondered what you did to entertain yourself when you ran aground on Capitol Reef for a few.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 01:30am PT
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Not a concern, BIOTCH. The urban support center for these areas is the thriving metropolis of Torrey, Utah, population 200. Torrey is a 175 mile round trip to the nearest grocery store, and the nearest Hospital with a Level I Trauma center is a 250 mile lifeflight ride to SLC, 500 miles when you consider it's a round-trip flight. In retrospect, the stuff I was doing -- alone, kinda hard and highball, landings sometimes not so good, no spotters, way out on 4X4 roads, years before cell service arrived in Wayne County with Jocelyn having at best a vague idea of where I might be -- well, it was sporty. I would not trade those years for anything. The place is so far from anything it will never have a scene. the Happies it ain't. Funny story: it was late Spring 1996. I'd been climbing at the Horn for maybe three years pretty regular without ever seeing another human. I come back into camp and there are two guys standing there. I'm in total shock. I walk up and very abruptly ask "WHO ARE YOU GUYS?!" No hey, howareya, whatcha doing, nothing. It was a pure Checkpoint Charlie "PAPERS PLEASE!" moment. As the words are ejaculating out my mouth I realize it's Woodward, who I had not seen in a bit. I go "Oh, sorry Jonny, it's just I've been climbing here for three years and have never, ever seen anybody else. Ever." Jonny can see I'm in shock, and knows exactly how to minister to my needs: he pulls a bottle of Lagavulin 16 out of his rig and offers me a fat one. We spend the evening gossiping around the fire while he ensures my glass of Lagavulin never gets too short. Woodward is a total class act. It was a great weekend.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:39am PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 01:53am PT
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Yeah Larry, that last pic is probably kinda how I came across.
And now, Welcome to Torrey. Seriously, this is it. That line of trees on the left is the town's very charming "main drag." We brought a killer house here with a one acre Orchard for $80,000. I'd move back.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Jan 25, 2013 - 06:01am PT
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A quiet ,private, humble ,introverted man.I´ve never seen a better description of myself.See you there this summer.Hows the hitchiking?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:02am PT
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Fully dripping with self-irony.
Here's a nice warm towel Cilley Dickens...LOL
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:40am PT
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Bvb,
I have to say Torrey, Utah, looks awesome. Very fine Boulders and full on beautiful crags to climb. Great find.
Not to forget to mention, it looks like great paragliding off the mesas and flying thermal and ridge lift along the aprons. Looks like plenty of large cattle fields for LZs to land softly in. Kind of reminiscent of Torrey Pines, San Diego, for flying but just way inland and no waves. I bet in the right conditions a free-flight pilot can get really high there and go really far.
I too like finding great places where I can really do all my favorite outdoor adventure activities and no crowds. Looks really nice.
Shalom.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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Morning Wayne County Big Rocks Bump. Let's streeeeetch for that first hold, er, I mean cup of coffee....
Four great problems on this little nugget, V4 - V7. Collect 'em all!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
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Fully dripping with self-irony.
When it comes to subtle self-depriciation, understated elegance, effortless finishing school manners, inconspicuous class, jaw-dropping climbing technique, exquisite taste in boulders, proper grooming, and raw animal magnetism with the fairer sex, you'll find no two finer exemplars then the American Legend and his early mentor, the Master Cylinder.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
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No climbing at Calf Creek. Decent swimming holes but often way too crowded for my tastes -- Hell, I went there once and there were FOUR OTHER PEOPLE. F*#k that sh#t.
Long Canyon is a well- developed crack climbing area. Just drive slow, scope the splitters, and look for anchors. Altough Capitol Reef is just as deserted, has better crack climbing (imho) and has a brand-new spankin' guide with all the new stuff (1999 -2012) included.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
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Got any graphic pics from The Flesh Pits area out at Big Rocks? Great low budget horror film bouldering...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
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Oh yeah, but they're all on my HD back in Flagstaff! Of course, the dog owners would clamor for the deactivation of my acount...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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The air is just feeling too damn thick at 7,000 feet, so let's return to the high-altitude pleasuring grounds of Wayne County's greatest gift to bouldering, The Horn, shall we? But whats this?! The American Legend is FALLING?! Say it ain't so, Joe. Tangerine Dreams, Henry Mountains.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
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Not to worry. Like Buhl on Nanga Parbat, our hero rallies and emerges from the shadows of the spectacular Center Route on The Triangle...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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...and then moves along over for some funluvin' pocket pullin' facepimpin' in the sun. Boom!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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This place is in South-Central Utah, Cozmix, in and around Torrey, Utah, Capitol Reef National Park, and the Henry Mountains. I lived and was active there from 1993 to 2002. I'm in Flagstaff now, but now that I'm retired I'm thinking it'd be really fun to rent a house in Torrey some summer and knock around the old haunts. The hiking, Sandstone Dome mountaineering, and techinical slot canyons are to die for as well. Tons of roped climbing at all grades.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
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Like this thing right here, Cosmic. Walker Peak. Extraordinarily good outing. About 700' of climbing from the base, and the trailhead is literally 15 minutes from downtown Torrey. The views from the top take in the whole of the Colorado Plateau. Lots of technical "scambling" with some easy 5th Class here and there. About 5 hours from car to car at a leisurely pace. My record is 67 minutes. I used to run up this thing during my lunch hour, or during routine NPS "patrols" to, uh, you know, ensure the resources were all intact n' sh#t. Capitol Reef has dozens of remote "dome-aneering" summits like this one.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 11:56pm PT
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This thing is super fun. Same trailhead, 15 minutes from Torrey. An honest 15 minutes, not some bullshit bait-and-switch 15 minutes. 9 miles on the odometer. This is just the summit cap. There's a bit of exciting 5.7 up there. Stupendous location with 360 degree views of the most remote and least-visited wilderness on the Colorado Plateau. Makes the Maze look like Times Square on New Year's Eve.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 01:08am PT
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Another widescreen view of the dome in the previous photo. The dome on the far right is the K2 of Capitol Reef domeaineering adventures. I did it with John Wason and Ho Man! Summitting the thing without placing bolts was sporty. 5.10 choss with a super mank belay. Nothing for a rap anchor on top, even by Canyonlands standards, so the first one down gets to downclimb the pitch with a TR, the last one down gets to downclimb the pitch with a belay from below by his shuddering partner, but looking at a massive whipper. We found a small pile of children's bones on top. Is it just me, or does this look like a bunch of boobs?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 01:43am PT
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But, lest we give Mungeclimber a coronary with these shimmering images of 5-Star Choss, let's get back to those dew-dappled fresh boulders at Big Rocks, where glitter falls from a twinkling sky, sparkle ponies nuzzle and coo, rainbows radiate on the diamond horizon, unicorns roam free, and lone American Legends with Clint Eastwood resolve and Bonattish committment make whoopie with the "GUD" stuff, m'kay? After all, we're gonna die! So we may as well git sum while the gittin's good.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jan 26, 2013 - 03:33am PT
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Mungeknocketty knock knocking scare ball domeing.
*like*
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 26, 2013 - 03:43am PT
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Wow! This thread is amazing, thanks BVB for so many killer shots & stories. True gold right here. The place looks as good as it gets.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 03:51am PT
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Here's another, better view of Walker Peak. We gotta go do this someday Mungie. U wood lyke I think. Seriously, once in a while I would disappear from the office from time to time for a quick solo lap. It has a summit register and everything! Then you can mosey 20 miles up the road to BIG ROCKS! Not a single stop light or stop sign along the way to slow you down. Sub-20 minute drive if you're ballin'.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:08am PT
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This one was a real thriller. The Matterhorn of Capitol Reef. We actually placed a single bolt -- unheard of. Five star summit. Doubt it's seen a repeat. I'd climb these things as a palate cleanser between week-long bouldering binges.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:39am PT
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Of course, if you absolutely MUST have splitters, here's Steph Davis on a little ditty I put up in 1994. It's (gasp!) 25 minutes from Torrey, with a ten minute approach. Pretty sure the anchor bolts must still be good.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
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I understand there is some "serious business" afoot in our little supertopo alpine peyton place. I can't imagine anything more "serious" than waking up in Wayne County. There are 5,000 unclimbed five-star probems, and those are just the ones you know about. Seriously, you're f*#ked.
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weezy
climber
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Jan 26, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
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wayne dang sweet poontang. good shite, bvb. the matterhorn and walker peak are definitely on my list for the (early) summer. since we're embedding pics of the "unicorn of utah crags" in this Big Rocks thread...
get your brick fix..
something's burning...
it's all there...
better shaddup before i get lynched!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
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I didn't get up tp the main crag often weezy but when I did, we always hucked a quick lap on this. Too f*#king good. Worthy of Arch Rock.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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More often it was this:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
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Meanwhile, back at Big Rocks: The Paleoman Roof. 9' of ass-dragging horizontal V5 goodness. Don't leave Wayne County without it!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
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Once in a blue moon I could drag a posse up to the Henrys, but between the flat tires and punctured oilpans they were usually one-timers. On this trip we racked up two flat tires, one broken axle, and two SOS trips into Hanksville. Then we had to talk a renegade flatbed truck driver into coming all the way up to the Coyote Benches to rescue a rig and take it to Green River. Standard-issue Horn Epic.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jan 26, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
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Damn, that climbing looks fantastic!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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It is, Gal! Pocket pullin' paradise. But then again, there is still Big Rocks...a father will always have a soft spot for the place he taught his son to climb. #1 son Kyle, straight pimpin' Wayne County style at 3 years old. Greg Epperson photo.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Jan 26, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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Keep this thread at the top, baby.
Keep it rolling BVB.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
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The wild thing is that if you were to stick a pin on the map in Torrey, Utah, then draw a 50 mile radius around it, all this would be in that circle. Plus way, way, way more. Mt. Biking, Fly Fishing, Techinial Slot canyons, unreal hiking, Kayaking, God the list goes on. I should shut up...
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 26, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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All-time thread right here.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 26, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
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BVB, sorry to carpet bomb your thread with images, but I share your enthusiasm for the region. All of these are a hop, skip, jump from Torrey as well:
200 ft rope stretching pitch, mostly hands:
Choices choices choices:
Captionless from here:
One of the best corners of the western states. Even if it had zero climbing that'd be true.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 26, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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No need to apologize, those are pretty yummy shots.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jan 26, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
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WOW-BVB & LeBruce, you guys are killin' me, as in I want to go there!!!! Amazing-great thread... great images-the hand crack-that looks so nice... slot canyons, hikes, the climbing, once again, wow. Hope this thread stays on top! BVB-Nice to teach your son climbing in such a cool spot.
VERY AWESOME.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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Yeah, but some quickie captions would be nice Bruce, at least a hint at locale. Some of it looked like Long Canyon/Circle Cliffs stuff?
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 26, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
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Bingo, BVB. Some in Long proper, some down off of Wolverine Loop, some out random uranium mining roads in the Circle Cliffs.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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Damn I'm good. Some incredible slot canyons drop down from the Southern Circle Cliffs, about 3 miles north of the Burr Trail, into the lower Fold. Did a bunch of stuff there. Had an epic once when we got our burly 4X4 hopelesly stuck and had to hike in a blinding rainstorm from WAY out in the circle cliffs down the Burr Trail switchbacks, carrying my 18 month old kid the whole way. Probably 12 miles, in the dark. Finally made it to the NPS Ranger Cabin at the base of the switchbacks. Never went out again without full emergency bivvy gear, a shovel, a hi-lift jack, and a winch.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 26, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
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Way to pull back the curtain on the choice goods BVB!
Quite the holdout on a treasure trove of snapshots and locations you are.
Payoff for wading through all of the Chossapalooza on the forum in recent years.
Big Rocks straightaway for my money.
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weezy
climber
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Jan 27, 2013 - 01:59am PT
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WAYNE COUNTY motherf*#kers! get some
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 02:39am PT
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Bedtime Big Rocks teaser. Seriously, am I the only guy on the motherf*#king planet with photos of this massive hoard of bouldering and cragging areas on like 6 different kinds of rock, splitter multipitch cracks, technical desert domes and peaks, scary-as-shit slot canyons, trouser-filling desert towers, all located at 5,500 to 11,000 feet in the most remote area of the US? WTF?!
No wonder I felt so alone. It was like a ten-year exile in paradise.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 03:09am PT
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B1, five stars, needs a 3rd ascent! Be the first on your block! Get sponsored! Impress your freinds! Free cowboy hats and snap-button yolk skirts! Snakeskin boots optional! Get laid!..by a boy, a girl, a sheep, a cow, a Morman virgin, whatever...it's Wayne County, people!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 03:28am PT
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For you seriously disturbed types: yes, it's been climbed; yes, that's either Todd or Evans standing on top; and yeah, you guessed it, it's in Wayne County and maybe 50 - 60 minutes from Torrey including the approach. Although, I have petitioned the County Commissioners to quarry the sucker before Mungeclimber gets any ideas so you might wanna get on it fast.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 03:58am PT
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Or you could just do the sane thing, pick up your marbles, and go here:
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 27, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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Good bouldering to be had on the south side of the Aquarius as well.
Yeah, it's Garfield and not Wayne, but it's a short and scenic drive. Garfield's got swimming holes galore - how does Wayne do on that front? Well, I bet.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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There is actually an amazing swimming hole just out of Torrey, up the mountain a bit towards Boulder, about 25 minutes from Torrey. Pleasant Creek Falls. Ice-cold snowmelt coming off the Aquarius Plateau has carved a 30 - 40 foot deep twisting winding set of narrows through the Navajo sandstone. The most amazingly clear water that makes Calf Creek Falls look like mud, with these huge 40' diameter plunge pools, separated by short stretchs of narrows gushing with natural jacuzzis. It's the bomb.
Sort of like Wayne County climbing...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
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This place. Pleasant Creek falls. I taught my kids to swim there. Never saw another soul. Great place to skinny dip with your partner then have fun-in-the-sun Crazy Monkey Sex.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 27, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
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I'm seriously offended by the lack of my presence in this thread.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
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Then find me that goddamn video!
Here's your claim to Wayne County fame...
Pitching off a prob I floated in '93 on my first Horn recon...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 02:22am PT
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Just about rock and roll peed my pants when I found this little cluster of nuggets. Dense, dense concentration of roofs and overhangs on damn fine rock. The Swank Stones. This little V3 crimpfest is what passes for a slab route there.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 09:13am PT
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Damn sure some fine stuff out there, bvb.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 28, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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Nice job Bob, now EVERYONE is going to be there this spring. We were hoping to have the flesh pit to ourselves... just me and the woman stretched out on a nice rabbit skin rug, the dogs chewing on the bones still attached to the rug.
Only copy of the video is in my office, 2 hrs away. Probably next week sometime.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
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I lived in that boulderfield for about 3mo, and lived another 12mo just down the road a piece in Bicknell when working for AYA in Loa.
I think you were still at CR at the time, BVB...'99/'00.
Nothin like random sheep carcasses, a million dead jack rabbits, and some jack mormons drinking keystone light.
The urban support center for these areas is the thriving metropolis of Torrey, Utah, population 200. Torrey is a 175 mile round trip to the nearest grocery store
Uh, c'mon now. Not to mess with your poetic license and all but...I remember buying all my groceries in Loa...at the grocery store.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
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They didn't build that "grocery store" until '97 or so, as I was preparing to exit for SLC. Dicey pull dates, year-old lettuce, etc. Safeway it is not. Even with that place available, actual locals -- you know, people who own a house and live there year after year -- winter, spring, summer, fall -- own a deep freezer and makes the run to Richfield every couple of weeks. It's there for last-minute milk n' eggs. It's just a minor upgrade from that roachfest in Bicknell...what was that place called? The Red Market? Red's Market? Damn it was scary.
If you were working for AYA, that sorry excuse for a food vendor must have seemed like an open-air market in southern France!
As for Big Rocks, get, like, 50 feet away from one of the dirt roads and it's pristine. Your first clue would be all of the undisturbed paleoartifacts, arrowheads, monster pot fragments, and so on.
Or go down to the park, up on the montain, or over to the Henry's! Big Rocks was my 90 minutes of free time backyard spot.
Done any of these problems..? Post pics!
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
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i did some bouldering at big rocks way back in the 80's.....knew a young woman from bicknell that i hung with until i realized she was the wayne county whore.
Nothin like random sheep carcasses, a million dead jack rabbits, and some jack mormons drinking keystone light.
thats what i remember from big rocks.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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That's why we called Big Rocks "The Flesh Pit!" Shoulda got outta yer car and hiked for 10 minutes, dude. Have you even seen any of these problems?
I met a buncha AYA types over the years, the only one who ever figured the place out was Brady Curry and he was as sold on BR as I was. You should check out "Brady's Roof", V4 X in the new Spaulding guide.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
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I had the 1988 Hurricane whore... aged 15 years for smoothness and taste... a little "mature" for my 14 year old palette.
Ah, Utah, how I miss your loose women and heavily armed parents.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
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SO SWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLE
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
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Beebs, I was running around out there with Martucci, Fordonski on a rare occasion, and Benji (who's last name I forget). Pretty sure Brady was still around then, although no longer with AYA. I think Fredo and him tried to put up some wall routes on these crazy tower/spires things near Juneau in that same time frame, and Shelly and Joe were still living in Teasdale.
I've been all over the place in that boulderfield. Even been duck hunting about a stones throw from there a couple of times.
Only pics I've got from BR is of some friends on the boulder with the
"Jenny" grafitti.
But really, the best part of bouldering there...post sesh pickle pie and pinto bean pie at the Sunglow...just don't speed through Lyman on the way back home.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
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Only pics I've got from BR is of some friends on the boulder with the
"Jenny" grafitti.
I think there is a big ol' WES graffiti there too. I think bvb put in there in recognition of my greatness.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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Oh, yeah, the Sunglow! Agreed the pickle pie was dope. The "Jenni" was actually "jennifer Washburn" on the Whiffle Ball, a great boulder problem but so damn close to the road...Jennifer Washburn was that hardest prob on the Whiffe Ball, thin and scary and high. Broken leg for sure if you pitch from the top.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 28, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
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V5 huh? We were calling it "5.11, don't fall" (no crashpads).
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
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We were doing it as a direct-line eliminate, straight up the arete, no flinching to the left or right when things got thin. The girl in the photo demonstrates the scale...20 - 25' whipper potential onto what was basically a concrete slab. No pads. Had to be there. The landing for the thing we were doing was a big, flat, rock slab, sort of uneven. Broken legs/ankles for sure.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
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Oh well, the "Serious Business" thead is kaput. Just when ptc was starting to seem attainable! OK, back to climbing content...oh my God! The grafitti! The trash! The crowds! The potsherds! The AYA boneheads who never figured out they should avoid roadside problems! Judging by the Desert Archaic Atlatl dart points and equisitely matched Mano/Metate set we found here, I'm guessing the grommets, posuers and maynards never thought to check this quadrant out...4X4 or half-mile hike mandatory.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
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Motivational Wayne County posters. Automatic For The People.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 28, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
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Wow, all those years wasted on those chossy towers, could'a been bouldering instead....next lifetime, I'll maybe figure it out.
Torrey is a real nice spot, for sure.
Hanksville is fun, too. A different world. Sure beats the crazy crowds around Moab.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 28, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
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Nice photos Crusher!
The second one almost has the effect of a collage.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 08:10am PT
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Breakfast coffee, that first smoke, and a motivational Wayne County poster to let y'all know that, well, we got it and you don't. God I love myself, er, I mean Wayne County.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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That creamy, dreamy breast of a formation is Fern's Nipple. Trailhead is 25 minutes from "downtown" Torrey. Technical summit, ok ropeless for the experienced, but n00bs will want a rope for the last 50 feet. Hands-down one of the best dayhikes on the Colorado Plateau. Amazing summit register -- last time I was up there a woman had scattered her husband's ashes from the summit and taped her wedding ring into the summit register. Magic.
Henry Mountains in the background, Horn is just out of the frame on the right.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 29, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
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Ahh, the Henry Mts. Last mountain range in the US to be discovered and named by anglos.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jan 29, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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Coolaboola bvb.
But, and here it is again, my snake phobia, but that looks like rattler country.
There are a lot of beautiful places in this world that I will never see, but the American West is high on the list of places to see more. Mom took us to Grand Canyon and around Arizona BITD, but that was the 60s.
Only desert climbing I've done is in JT a couple of times and Lake Perris (does the latter count?). Are Smith Rocks considered desert climbing? If so, I'll add that to my "done" list.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 29, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
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The Henrys are cool. We used to run the kids up to the top of Pennell in the spring and fall. Our winter field area was basically from the E. border of the park to the crest of the Henry mts. There's a heard of bison ranging around in that area. We used to see them fairly often.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 29, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
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Are those the Henrys in the background?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
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Yep. That's the Henrys. That little bump is the horn.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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I'm on contract with the Wayne County Travel Council! Maybe we're talking about different Calf Creeks? There's about 28 of 'em in Utah. Or maybe way downstream from the falls, southeast of Hwy 12, deeper towards the Escalante, where the Navajo gives way to splitter Wingate?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
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Meanwhile, back at Big Rocks...this easy skankin' problem may be the best V1 south of Salt Lake City.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 12:00am PT
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weezy
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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look at the rocks - ain't they purdy?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 30, 2013 - 01:46am PT
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GC... one of the best lines EVER.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 01:49am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2013 - 01:53am PT
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...this easy skankin' problem may be the best V1 south of Salt Lake City.
Letter box holds abound from this vantage point.
And I only need one target: that looks like it!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 30, 2013 - 02:11am PT
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Nice bvb. Made a trip or two to Black Table and the Horn with JW. One route on Black Table had a beak protecting the crux, still not sure what that was about. Great face/seam pitch, can't remember the name of it now. I'm sure Jonny had only your best interest in mind if he asked you to go.
The Horn was killer. Great colors. One of the times I was there the lupens where in full bloom, fields of 'em. Watched a wicked lightning storm march across the lowlands one night. Too bad about the fire.
The herd of bison was cool.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 02:43am PT
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This gorgeous problem suffered a bit of scabbin' during the fire, but it's still five stars.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 30, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
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Yeah, that Golden Child is purty.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 30, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
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Now I can't remember... is it Golden Child or Perfect Child? Regardless, a stellar line.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 30, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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Now that you mention it, it is Perfect Child, isn't it?
Here's a shot Brendan put up when he sent it back in the fall
PhotoCredit: Brendan N.
At one point, I was working up on Boulder Mtn with the hoods, had to go scout a hiking route to the next water source, and ran into a band of short-ish basalt up there in this tight little gorge type of feature. Marked it on the topo, and then never went back to check it out.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
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There's a bunch of good stuff up on the Aquarius Plateau. Incredible stuff, better than Buffalo Park in Flagstaff, only 100X as much, and surrounded by lakes and blue spruce forest and alpine meadows at 11,000 feet. Might have some pics somewhere...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 30, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
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There's also a ton of different kinds of mushrooms up there. I talked to a mycologist who said they'd only ID'd about 1/3 of what was up there.
Which is cool...until some deliquent puts amanita in the group food. Which happened to us. Start getting increasingly frantic calls from the field on the radio..."we think she dosed the food". Then later, "she definitely dosed the food, she admitted to putting amanita caps in the beans, and now half the group is tripping face".
Ah, good times. Wish she would have just stuck with the Chicken of the Woods though, those muscaria are kind of dangerous.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
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Ever been up there in high summer when the wildflowers were really going off on the High Top? Damn, don't need no 'shrooms to be tripping. We found killer Basalt cliffbands in some place near the eastern edge of the plateau. The 7.5 quad had it marked as "Bodunk Hollow" or something like that. Spotted the nuggets using the aerial photo library at CRNP. Just about trashed the rig getting there..."bad road, take other", as Abbey would say.
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weezy
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
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it's The Perfect Child. the crack to the right is called Holy Smoke, 5.12. but i've done neither; only stood at the base and gaped up in amazement
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
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I did Holy Smoke. One of the maybe 11 or 12 times I put a rope on up there. Didn't know the name 'till now. Five Stars.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
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Bob- Did you ever climb the obvious dusty overhanging handcrack that you can see from the Capitol Reef Visitor Center? Not exactly the primo line but looking at it every day...might do something to a man. LOL
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 07:52pm PT
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Don't talk about Jocelyn like that, Steve. After all, she is the mother of my children.
HAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAH Swear to God I just KILL myself sometimes! Seriously though, there were about 2,000 handcracks visible from the VC...which one?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
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Way over on the left side, the crack in question splits a fifteen degree flat overhanging face right off the ground. Screams at ya!
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:03pm PT
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bvb, I just realized you were down there when I was using my scholarship money to take hiking/camping classes to Capital Reef. If I'da known, I'da shared some brownies with ya!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
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Oh, right, THAT one! In my Chucks, drunk, wearing the uniform, flat hat and all, while using endangered species for target practice. Sustained Superior Performance Award!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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Did you find the vid yet Wes?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
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nope. pretty sure it is sitting in my office... haven't been there for months and months and months. I'm supposed to be there next week, but not sure if that is going to happen. Not sure why it isn't up on the youtube anymore.
just sit tight
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Juicer
Trad climber
SLC
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
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BVB, I think someone's already mentioned it, but a lot of your photos are from GArfield County along with almost all of the Henry Mountains.
I thought you were nuts to leave CRNP for that Olympic gig.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
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C'mon Jonathon, we need to adapt a more post-colonial perspective. What's a county boundary in South-central Utah?! Garfield and Wayne county governments are so inbred it's scary. Anyway, all of my pics are from "Whine" County, except for the Horn, which sadly misses the mark by about 5 kilometers. The county line pracitically crosses the summit of Mount Ellen. We are petitioning to have it (The Horn) gerrymandered into Wayne. All those other pics (long canyon, et al) were posted by others. Not that Garfield county does not deserve honorable mention....
Had to leave the Cap Reef thing for SLC when Kyle was diagnosed with Autism, otherwise I'd a never left, ever. Right now I'm mulling over a 2-bedroom 1920's moenkopi stone house listed for $80.000. Nice vacation crib.
Love these oldschoool maps.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
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#1 son Kyle Van Belle killin' it at Big Rocks, 3 years old. 1996 Epi photo. Git Sum!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 31, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
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Man, that IS an old school map...Bicknell was still called Thurber and Teasdale is misspelled.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 31, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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Thurber!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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Love that satellite picture of the Fold and the Henrys.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 31, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
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You guys know this one?
Aquarius Paintbrush, CASTILLEJA AQUARIENSIS
This is a rare, possibly endandered species of indian paintbrush that only occurs on the slopes and plateau of Boulder Mtn.
The service projects we ran with the kids, usually a week of their 2mo program, was building barbed wire fence across the mtn so the free-range grazing could be confined to one side or the other, allowing the species to perpetuate. Grazing is the biggest threat to this plant.
Building barbed wire fence from scratch, across remote mtn terrain is an undertaking...doing it with with a crew of 11 deliquent teenagers..well, it turned out to be better than it sounds. It gets really entertaining when the daily afternoon thunderstorm rolls through and you start getting shocked while streching wire beacuse the fence continues a couple miles and the lighting is hitting over there.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 31, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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Bump to keep it going and to see more pics.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
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That last photo looks an awful lot like it was taken from the Eastern edge of the 11,000 foot Aquarius Plateau. Jus sayin'.
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weezy
climber
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Jan 31, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
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Man, that IS an old school map...Bicknell was still called Thurber and Teasdale is misspelled.
on the same map the Colorado River is called the Grand River, but you can't see in that photo.
edit: lol, cataract canon.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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OK, now this thing was Sporty! There is no easy way up. You'll want a standard desert rack, with an emphasis on Wyde. Rapping off the thing is almost as scary as climbing up it. Makes the Pinns feel like diamond-hard perfection, God's Own Stone. No sign of any previous ascents. Yur Gunna Dye!!
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Juicer
Trad climber
SLC
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Jan 31, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
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Here's a nice perspective on Wayne County for ya Bob. Was it Garfield that tried to pave the Burr Trail through the park?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
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NICE MAP! I collect that stuff. Got a few choice framed maps of old, old, Colorado Plateau cartography.
Yep. I was the point guy on that Burr Trail debacle. Had to testify in court twice, fly back to DC a few times to brief the Directorate, the works. Once I briefed the Deputy Director fully drunk and swimming on Xanax. Good times, I crushed! Eventually the 9th Circuit in San Francisco ruled in the NPS's favor and that was that for RS2477 claims in National Parks. 1996 - 1998 were stressful years. Thank God for all that nearby boulderin' and craggin' to blow off steam...
One of my favorite quotes: So eloquent!
http://www.deseretnews.com/article/478102/WORK-ON-BURR-TRAIL-UNDER-PROBE.html?pg=all
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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Back in 2003, the Bulldog Fire ravaged the Horn. I just realized we're coming up on the 10 year aniversery. Although much remains, much -- very, very much -- was lost.
This killer face, peppered with sweet pocket problems (Bill Hatcher photo):
Became this:
For God's sake let's be careful with fire! asdf.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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...whether we're talking about a bighorn sheep or a big dirt hillside.
Nice! I love big dirt hillsides.
I'm headed to Utar this spring. It has been 12 years since I've been Horny. I took my 2WD Nissan PU up there, not sure if my new truck will make it, but it should.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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Good luck with that Wes!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 01:02am PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 02:46am PT
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Here's another problem I found on my very first day in the Hankries, Saturday, June 19, 1993. When we caught our first glimpse of the Horn from the south shoulder of Mount Ellen I was sure that this whole thing was a wild hallucination. We'd been at Capitol Reef for maybe 2 days, straight outta Boston and totally shell-shocked by this incredible new environment, when I was talking with the park biologist, Sandy Borthwick. And as we have all experienced when chatting with non-climbers, upon learning we were climbers she says "oh, you should drive to the Henrys and see the Horn, there's a bunch of big rocks up there, I think there might be rock climbing." Yeah, right. At least she had the good taste to refrain asking if I'd climbed Everest. As we're having this discussion I'm literally looking across the street at a 300' Wingate wall covered with splitters and what she knows about climbing she undoubtably learned from watching Spencer Tracy in "The Mountain." So I really didn't pay much attention to her suggestion.
In any event, a few days later we decide to take our brand-new 4Runner (purchased the week before) up to the Henrys to hike up Mount Ellen with 6-month-old Kyle in tow. That wound up being a fast and casual hike, so with most of the day still left to kill we consult the 7.5 quad and Pennell looked close enough for a quick recon -- plus those stacked-up contour lines looked mighty, mighty suspicious -- so we decide to drop back down and swing over to scope this "Horn" thing. Holy Mother of God. As we rounded the shoulder, there was the west side of the Horn. Boulders. Huge, huge boulders. Thousands of them. Crags, too. It looked incredible. But what the f*#k kind of rock was that?! Then we drove around to the East side of the formation and I just about f*#king died. We had shoes and chalkbags, that was it. We had no idea about any trails, but it was clear from all the lichen wear on Wedding Buttress's 11c crack that the place was seeing traffic. We just bushwhacked straight up to the first bench and started running around like kids in a candy store. Later that day we found a prehistoric sleeve-and-nail star bolt with a hanger of unknown provenance on top of a 5.7 boulder crack. Boy Scout Top-Rope Route? Fred Becky's "Kilroy Was Here" calling card? Who knows? The place was way, way mysto. I'd never seen or climbed on rock that was anything like this -- it was like bullet-hard, heavily pocketed granite drenched in thick golden hues, set in an old-growth Ponderosa pine forest designed by a master Japanese gardener. Totally unreal. My first exposure to a laccolithic mountain range on the Colorado Plateau. Instant believer. I drank all the Kool-Aid on the spot.
This was my favorite problem from that glorious day:
Wind 'er up...
Big move!
Spent pretty much every spare moment up there for the whole summer and fall of '93. The bouldering potential appeared to have been pretty much ignored. Many crucial pockets were loaded with lichen and micro-biospheres, and the first time I walked up to the boulderfield on the west side there were lithic scatters and projectile points laying around and lichen crisps shellacked on crucial holds. I think someone told me The Perfect Child was put up around this time? The SLC crew and the Moab contingent were on to the Horn for sure, and I'd bet money that Steve Hong bagged that obvious 5.11 front-and-center splitter, but it was years before I bumped into other climbers up there, usually from Moab or Salt Lake. I had the luxury of getting off work early during the week, bombing up there and getting 2 or 3 hours in, and being home by dark. It was a good time to be alive. The Wingate splitters 10 minutes from our living room, Big Rocks 20 minutes away...Gravy, baby. All f*#king Gravy.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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It was a good time to be alive.
Nice bvb.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 03:39am PT
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Yeah Jefe, I read somewhere that Supertopo is a rock-climbing forum! Dayum, coulda knocked me over with a feather! DRL tour onena these days?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 03:55am PT
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Torrey, aye we hardly knew ye.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 04:31am PT
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As has been mentioned, vehicular hiccups at Wayne County backcountry crags can, depending on circumstances, rapidly escalate into, well, you know, Epics. Middle-class gold-plated epics to be sure, but they sure can be a spendy distraction at times. For example, consider Exhibit A here: much to my amazement, this field repair (rather bold and ingenious if you ask me) -- reattaching a busted axle mount with strapping tape -- held up for a few miles.
Alas, the effort, despite the Apollo 13 level of creativity, ingenuity and grace under pressure applied to the problem -- was ultimately doomed to failure. So off to Hanksville we go. This totally renegade stand-up hippie biker 'Nam Vet rescue driver and I drank beer all the way from Hanksville to the Coyote Benches, swapping Wayne County war stories and discussing boobs. He was a really cool guy, as are most people from Hanksville. Hanksville is the "town" -- if you can call it that -- where all the truly colorful "downcounty" jack-mormans seem to wind up. This guy saved me $1500 bucks by falsifying his report to Triple AAA, claiming he picked us up on the paved road to Bullfrog marina.
After managing that minor glitch in our weekend with all the skill and panache of t*r on a boob rampage, we got back down to business. I was a bit stressed by all the auto drama -- I don't cope to well with that kind of stuff -- but a quick circuit of easy skankin' on my favorite moderates, along with a few stiff drams of the good stuff and a fistful of xanax, put my whole world right back in perspective. Angels enveloped me within the soft embrace of their celestial feathers as I rode back to camp on a Unicorn that exhaled perfume and trailed a sparkling cloud of glitter in a thousand rainbow hues.
And then the other car took a big old sh#t on us. More scotch, more xanax, no stress, no problem. Just a little duct tape and bailing wire and we're back in business! "Honey, do you think that this Extra-Virgin Olive Oil will work as differential oil?"
Hanna, meanwhile, is starting to question the wisdom of allowing us to parent her. To this day, I assure her that these will someday be cherished memories and hysterically funny storytelling material. When I try to serve up this obviously deranged spin, she rolls her eyes, looks the other way, and cranks the Justin Bieber tune on her iPod up to 11. Nice try, Dad.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 05:42am PT
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weezy
climber
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Porphyritic diorite bump. quick cooling makes buttery pockets.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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Big Rocks Bump for Krimbing Kontent! The Gym Boulder, in a little area called The Cove. South-facing, sunny, and windless on even the most bitter January days. Perfect spot to kill a couple of spare hours. The Good Stuff. Oh, to be young again...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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So you just climb up the sides of them boulders over and over again?
What's that all about.
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weezy
climber
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hell Tarbuster get a load of this...
they always try to climb up the hardest side.. it's the damndest thing
they could just climb up the backside all easy-like but they keep trying to get up the steepest sides
they're strong in the fingers but not so much in the head..
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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...and I guess those little mats are for makin' more babies?
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weezy
climber
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...and I guess those little mats are for makin' more babies?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
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Thank God somebody else posted to this thread. I was about to give up on it. Figured nobody was reading it.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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No BVB, please keep posting.
I only made one trip (after seeing pictures of Perfect Child), but really enjoyed the variety of options there. We also didn't know what to make of the rock at first - it really is like nothing I've seen anywhere else.
We didn't have any vehicle problems, but I could see how it would be very easy to epic out there.
Wish it was closer...if it was I would have certainly gone back.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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BVB! I fess up!
Your thread is "12 Thumbs up" & "the cat's g-string!!"
Dooooode!
I am paying special attention, since most all my Utah desert trips have been into SE Utah-------and our SLC buddies just bought a house in Torrey.
Thank you for taking all the time to post those photos and story!
Dooooooode!
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Mees
climber
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I could do w/o the bravado, it's slightly humorous to someone I suppose. the pics and the passion for a cool place, can't get enough, thanks for the stoke, besides it's a climbing thread.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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they could just climb up the backside all easy-like but they keep trying to get up the steepest sides
Wow, good point! With that beta I suppose there is no need for anyone to haul a bag of toys and their own feces up the side of El Crap.
This thread makes me feel Horny.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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BVB... Im' reading it and I am waiting for the "big mad poster to appear" and curse you for spilling the beans.
Looks like a great place to retire.... just hobble up to some boulders and feel stone.
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weezy
climber
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BRAVADO BUMP!!!!!11
WAYNE COUNTY, KIDS .. GET SOME
behold...an autumn's bounty of choss...the temples of the sun and moon.. unclimbed (?)... but closed to climbing
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
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BVB... Im' reading it and I am waiting for the "big mad poster to appear" and curse you for spilling the beans.
Meh, I think those days are over. All of these areas have been massively exposed on the 'web in the last ten years. It's not 1997 anymore. I pulled every single photo posted here off the internet. Do a google search using "images" and you'll see what I mean. There is a new Wayne County climbing guide out. Sponsored climbers have blogged the living daylights out of the Hankries, and getting directions to the place is as simple as conducting a 30 second google search. Hell, I found 'em on my first try following a random comment from a non-climbing co-worker by getting a bunch of 7.5 minute quads, looking at the contour lines, and just driving up there on a day trip with my wife and infant son in tow. Oldest trick in the book. If you have even the slightest degree of exploratory itch, south-central utah has a lifetime's worth of new undiscovered rock.
Since the fire, I've been up there a few times, but it just sort of makes me sad. I get that "it was a time and a place" feeling that you really can't go home again. And since the fire, even the old "regulars", such as they were, have throttled way back. All of these areas can and do and will go months between visitors, and it will always be that way. There's no really comprehesive guide to Wayne county -- the new one is deliberately spartan -- and these places are just too damn hard to get to unless you can see 'em from your kitchen window like I could. And that insanely nice camping scene has turned into something like a night in Beirut.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
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I could do w/o the bravado
Bravado? ME?!? That is SO unfair, out-of-line, below the belt, and totally unsupported my my posting history here on the Taco. Low-key, self-depriciating humor and humility are my middle names. Actually, my middle name is Donald, but you get the point.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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I love the fact that the photo above was presented in a court of law in an attempt to deride your character and as evidence of your possible infidelity with the lass in the "background". <snicker>
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
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Really, I should frame it with the Exhibit tag on it and all. It took five years, but at least the ass and I can communicate in a civil fashion these days. Especially when she calls me looking for money. She wants to get back on my Fereral BC/BS healthcare plan.
meanwhile, up in the high country, life goes on...
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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You had infidelities with that chick? Not bad for an old man.
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GuapoVino
Trad climber
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Great thread. Looks like an awesome place. I'm going to be in southern Utah this summer with my three kids on our annual summer trip. I'm going to detour through this area for sure.
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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American Legends take their wimminz out to She Lives, none of that Whip and the Cross nonsense. What kind of pervert are you?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
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Wayne County Morning Bump!
BK looking pretty
The new Wayne County guide calls this thing "Beginner's Luck", V3:
It's all yours, it's all good. Rockhizzle in tha cowshizzle.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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bvb... I was hopeing for a real sh$t slinging to go down.
That makes for some good reading.
The pictures your posting, make me want to quit the job, load the car and hit the road.
Is this wayne county good in the summer???
has the camping really gone bad?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 04:28pm PT
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bvb... I was hopeing for a real sh$t slinging to go down.
Well, we can still hope, right? It would make for some great intardwebz theater! We could even bring LEB back for it!
On the other hand, if you google "the horn+henry mountains+climbing" the very first two image hits are these:
Not a secret spot, never was, just obscure, hard to get to, and lacking a roadmap-for-the-masses guidebook. This is as it should be. I dispatched a posse of Flagstaff's finest up there a few years ago, and they came back raving about the place. Just raving. "Godstone", "Unreal", Best EVAR", etc.
And...they've never gone back, ever, not once. And really, that's the whole story of Wayne County climbing right there. Proximity is crucial to regular visitation.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
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Is this wayne county good in the summer???
has the camping really gone bad?
With the exception of some of the lower elevation Capitol Reef Bouldering areas (5500 feet) everything in this thread is at or above 7,500 fet, so yeah, it's good in the summer. Capitol Reef dome-a-neering summits are all 7,000 feet and up and there's always a cool breeze so they are great anytime of the year. In what passes for the dead-of-summer months (July and August) you'll want to stick to mornings and afternoons. Afternoons are always good, when between the bone-dry air and the altitude it cools off fast.
All of it is public land, so camping is free and plentiful and nice, although up in the Hankries you need to camp well away from the burn zone. Even now, 10 years later, the old camping area is one big ashtray. Everthing you own will turn black. The soil is gone and has been replaced with several inches of black soot.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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If you want a Utah crag to EXPLODE... just tell everyone it is secret.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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BVB... thx for the info. Never to early to start planning for the summer.
Those rocks look sort of like Suicide... is that stone like the stuff in the bouldering pics... you know, featured? Solid?
And yea, I know about killer good rocks that just take a bit of effort to get to. Like a 1 hour up hill hike....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
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If you want a Utah crag to EXPLODE... just tell everyone it is secret.
Yeah. The traffic at Big Rocks has been off the hook since the Russo Guide in what, 1999? And Bjornstad's Capitol Reef guide in '97...HO MAN! Indian Creek hoards did a mass migration like "whoa!" I tell ya, one false move and Wayne County is gonna be seeing, like 50 climbers a year. Paging the Access Fund!
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Juicer
Trad climber
SLC
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I think we can all agree that the Wayne County region is totally stacked.
So what's the deal BVB are you going to make the jump back there? Can we crash there and help re-supply your remote outpost? Seems like you're building up to something here.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 02:48am PT
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[img]
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 02:52am PT
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I think we can all agree that the Wayne County region is totally stacked.
So what's the deal BVB are you going to make the jump back there? Can we crash there and help re-supply your remote outpost? Seems like you're building up to something here.te Here
Actually, yes, JK. I'm seriuously considering getting a place there. I have Kathy Bagley on the lookout. You can get gorgeous 1930's stone cottages for ~80K. And it was always my favorite place to live. Kyle is 20 now and talks about wanting to go back all the time. So do I, if this thread has not made that obvious! Crib in Flag, Crib in Torrey, wtf I'm retired, why not? Of course itinerant cragaddicts will always be welcome to drink n' doss. Back in the day Casa Van Bubba was Rancho Gordon East.
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Juicer
Trad climber
SLC
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Well either way it would be great to see you guys down there. It's almost Black Pudding Mesa / Hog's Back season.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 10:09am PT
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Yeah, Jonny owes me a death runout down there. DOHT! Although Darrel's description of evil greasy dimes runouts off buried peckers for pro sounds a bit to "Beau Geste" for me. I'm all old n' creaky n' stuff.
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weezy
climber
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is this the wall where jonny's routes are?
went down there looking for boulders that were recommended to me but it was too hot that day. i was specifically warned about staying away from the routes on the wall unless i was ready for some gnar. BD used to have all the employees' favorite climbs on their website and i remember JW writing about a route on BPM as "a tasty morsel most people couldn't stomach." hah.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
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Because info on the Mount Pennel crags is so readily available to the truly interested, and I located them with no assitance or beta from anyone, I have no compunction about discussing them. But I only climbed at B^$@* T&^%$ once, was an invitee, and so cannot make any comments without violating my somewhat fluid and flexible code of personal ethics. I will, however, remark that if you never go there it will dramatically improve your life expectancy. I imagine that if you know about someplace like Dark Canyon, you'll have no problem arranging a proper tour of the Mount Hillers stuff. You should ask around about Bull Mountain. I've heard good stuff.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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JW recommended 1 route there.
Ed: "Is it a typical Woodward route? I'm not sure I have that in me after a 5 hour drive."
JW: "Nah, it is totally safe."
Ed: "I've heard that before!"
JW: "Nah, I wouldn't do that to you."
Thank god it was Ed's lead because I only took 3 pairs of undies that day.
I've got the month of April to be poking around Ibex, Joe's, Uintas, LCC... any other new top secret spots?
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weezy
climber
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and so cannot make any comments without violating my somewhat fluid and flexible code of personal ethics
werd. i've been sworn to secrecy before, but only in AZ.
don't ever take sides with anyone against the Family again. Ever.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
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any other new top secret spots?
I'll trade you the Aquarius Plateau boulders for the Big Rocks video. Deal?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Not sure why it ain't on the webz no more. Like any masterpiece, you should have copied it while you had the chance!
No word from my folks in Davis. Maybe Sun...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
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The youtube link shows it is a private video/password protected. maybe you just need to log on to YuTube and change the setting?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
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Those rocks look sort of like Suicide... is that stone like the stuff in the bouldering pics... you know, featured? Solid?
Nothing much like suicide, really. The stuff at Big Rocks and the Hankries is generally overhanging, pockets of all kinds from hideous tendon-snapping monos to bottomless sinker letterbox slots. It's not granite by any means; too many limestone-type pockets but it looks and feels like granite. Many climbs are 99% pockets with an edge here and there. I've seen no other rock like it on Earth. But there are some GREAT slab climbs that remind me a lot of Sherman Acres (think Sketchpad only better (sorry John!), and other Bishop stuff like those overrun Happies. Boom it's the bomb! The Capitol Reef bouldering is mutant, but good quality super fun and if you like Canyonlands scenery the setting can't be beat. I was hooked on it. The Wingate splitters range from full-on Indian Creek clones to scary sandy excercises in character building. The Navajo Dome summits are the ultimate in semi-techinial adventure outings (check out the Walker Peak photo and you'll see what I mean), and the mud towers are standard Fischer Towers-type fare. And all of this stuff is one CD or a few Mp3's driving time from Torrey! It's decided, I'm gonna buy a beater old 2nd home and live there from time to time. Absolutely most bitchin' place I've lived in the lower 48, but this may be a matter of taste. I *heart* the remote. Oh, and there are some frozen waterfalls that form up on the North side of Boulder mountain. A good google search will reveal much.
Bit steeper than a "slab", but less than vert and 100% pockets!
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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I don't see it anywhere in my youtube vids. Got a link?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Thanks for the info ... bvb
I think the formation, from a distance.. looks like a granite formation.
But the stone is full of holes!!
That sounds nice, n fun.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Horny rock at the Hankries: twas a failed volcano... over zealous intrusion. Basically, it would have been a volcano... if it weren't for that meddling sandstone (Windgate me thinks). It got stuck and became a laccolith.
It is a silica undersaturated rock. I think I saw some nepheline in there... nearby La Sals and Abadabadoo's are also silic poor... fwiw, I think Hueco is a syenite, also silica poor volcanic... but it was a long long time ago.. I have a piece lying around here somewheres).
(youtube says it is private for me too)
Where dat? How are the bolders?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 04:25am PT
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Wish I had my computer's portable back-up hard drive with me here in San Diego. 1,000's of pics of sh#t on there that could forever alter your pespective on obsure, mysto, off-the-beaten-path areas. Every single photo I've posted in this thread was nicked from the 'net. I mean, f*#k."secet Spots?" Yeah, maybe if you've never used a cell phone or a laptop before.
If I had my hard drive, I could start a motherf*#king American Climbing Legend Revolution, Godammit! In praise of hard-to-find, hard-to-get there, undoumented crazy-ass off-teh-grid rocks located in the most spectacular locales in the lower 48.
Black Diamond, Wild Country, La Sortiva, Patagonia, Metolius, Arctyrex, Eddie Bauer, Sears and Roebuck, North Face, Albertsons and Safeway and Whole Foods, the "I DO! I DO! sex-toy lingerie shop in Flagstaff...they'd all have to start rebranding completely from scratch and spend gazillions developing and launching new Ad campaigns for the cutting-edge Wayne Couny obsuranita hipster bouldering demographic, imported from Williamsburg!
Then they'd have to move OR from the Salt Palace to the NAU sky dome, that'd be fun! How many chossaholics can you fit on a pinhead, uh, I mean keyboard?!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
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Unless the StoopidDopo group consensus is that this thead has become a massive, boring waste of precious time and a deplorable bandwidth-sucking black hole of blatant self-aggrandizing nonsense and choss-worshop, a bone-crushing expose of never-seen-before Wayne County sw0leness is in the works. It's all up to WesChrist and his motherf*#king video stash.
What say ye, fellow has-been never-was losers and chump scramblerz?!? Yea or Nay?
Not that I care what you think.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Lurkering hard here, keep err comin.
I'd love to check out the sw0le but I think it would explode my Honda Fit to bits.
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MisterE
Social climber
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You need to get the fuk back to Flag and get that hard drive.
That's my final answer.
:)
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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A load of Bull
I've always been so engrossed in the fun and frolic of playing on the choss that I just drive right by this kind of stuff with nary a second glance....
EDIT: Yes, those "shrubs" are big-ass trees
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 03:18am PT
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See? See?! This is what I'm talkin' about. I know good and goddamn well that NOBODY is giving this thread so much as a token glance. It's a wallflower thread, that pimple-faced n00b monument to awkward social invisibility.I slave day and deep into the wee hours attempting to fashion this extraordinarly deranged, depraved, bamboozled, hornswaggled, butttknckled and just plain unbalanced topic into something of value. Wadda I get in return? Some wierd looks, a few trully bizarre PMs, banner ads for Hungarian mail-order brides, come-ons for OCD San Diego psychiatrists, and bulk Viagra offers with Bolivian mail-order return adresses.
For example, the following remark, the essence of Absurdum In Extrema when it come to Dick and I, was allowed to pass with nary a single snort, an off-the-cuff snarky comment, a cutting put-down or reality check, nuthin, Nada:
When it comes to subtle self-depriciation, understated elegance, effortless finishing school manners, inconspicuous class, jaw-dropping climbing technique, exquisite taste in boulders, proper grooming, and raw animal magnetism with the fairer sex, you'll find no two finer exemplars then the American Legend and his early mentor, the Master Cylinder
OK, so maybe you rockclimbing.com refuges have grown soft, lazy, and addicted to thread-drama inolving guns, boobs, and YouTube videos of cats. So be it, as it may.
Me? Im keeping it real in Wayne County, where we don't preen, swagger, shout "Allez!" in our sleep or otherwize flex nuts. Cause we ain't got nuts, most of us were accidentally gelded by our drunk fathers when they mistook us for colts. But what the f*#k...we got the stones, bra! Bring your fart-stick digiridoos, we make the pioneer campfire musics with Blood Beat and Dread, and Marcus Garvey's secret dry-rub rib recipe of special herbs' n' spices for the Mutton Ribs Mon! I-tal down to da final Chakra, mon. We can crash at Haile Selassie's place, it be de bomb mon! Hemp fiber throws rgs, Mon. Splif and titties and boulders and sheep, mon!! Jah Waynesafari!
The all-volunteer Scumbag Taskforce TEAM DEADLY 2013 exploratory expeditionary team -- code named Satan's God Squad -- is is full motherf*#king effect, launcing in sw0le drive and heading out on the next Wayne County Reconaissance mission in the tricked-out heat-seeking 1956 Chevy Bel-Air epicmobile! V14 deathballs, here we come! Join the movemont, Mon! I and I give tanks and praises!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Let not handwringing divert thee from thy appointed path Pilgrim!
Nobody's getting in their cars over this stuff, okay maybe a few of us, but in general this is just serving as eye candy.
Besides, my pussy hurts and I believe this is the antidote.
Is it just me? Or does this thread needs more pictures ...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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NEWS FLASH!
The evil-ex Jocelyn has located my back-up hard drive and is mailing it to me. Prepare yourselves for a Wayne County PHOTO ASSAULT that will rock rhe masses, realign Chakras on an interstellar scope, and, well, compel the Supertopians of the planet to get sw0le, pack their rigs, and bust all known speeds records in the quest for plim-pickin' Wayne County first-scent GLORY! THIS IS IT! Chossaholics, get into therapy now 'cause you're gonna need it!
w00t w00t
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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Oh HELL YEAH BABY, it ain't over till I SAY it's over. Wayne County Muthafukkas, straight pimpin' at 7500 feet, 40 miles out on a bad 4X4 road with a ragweed blunt in one hand, bottle of Macallan 12 in the other, steering with the knees while scanning 7.5 topos and blasting AC/DC turned up to 11. It's a long way to the top if you wanna rock and roll.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Feb 12, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
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FKNA!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 12, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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Me on some moderate short crack line at the mouth of Capitol Gorge, almost directly across from the road fromt the classic handcrack. CapReefNP, Winter 99/00
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Feb 12, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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Wish I had my ... followed by a bunch of OP bullshit
Well, we'll be here.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
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You hurt my feelings.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
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post away, Legend.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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Wayne County Muthafukkas, straight pimpin' at 7500 feet, 40 miles out on a bad 4X4 road with a ragweed blunt in one hand, bottle of Macallan 12 in the other, steering with the knees while scanning 7.5 topos and blasting AC/DC turned up to 11. It's a long way to the top if you wanna rock and roll.
Another killer vignette by BVB.
You're classic dude.
MORE!
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Bread
Trad climber
Craggy Mountains, NC
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
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The Boulder Batholith
Southern Yosemite
Woodshun
Big Rocks
Solid Gold
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
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Please please wip me more... I need IT
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weezy
climber
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Feb 12, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
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MAKE SURE SHE BUBBLE WRAPS THAT HARD DRIVE!!!!
we can't be losing any historical records of obscure BFE crushfests
wayne county, son
get some
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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Bump for much work.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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Fire up your band-width, the shiz is coming, Bitches!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 13, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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Not Utah.... but not near any road.
Gorge of Dispair bouldering.
BVB... keep it up.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 13, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
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Need moar pick churs.
You promised Beebs. Stop slacking and fire up that hard drive.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
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Don't crucify me fellers! Dagburned Post Office is so slow, I ain't gotter yet! But I still a pic here and there ta snag offa the interwebz...
This pic was taken so soon after the fire, the big stumps were still smouldering...
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weezy
climber
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Feb 13, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
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check out the set on WAYNE COUNTY
[insert sexist comment here]
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
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Nice Rack! Getting to the top of some of those domes is Canyonlands adveture climbing at it's finest.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
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Of course, we all know I'm just shilling for this guy. I get a $0.002 cent commission on every copy sold! w00t w00t!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
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These little crags are only acccessable for about 3 or 4 months a year, but wadda ya want for 11,000 feet alpine craggin' and bouldering? You can look down the mountain and acoss to Torrey from the top. Downright fab.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 13, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
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bitch, you never took me there.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 14, 2013 - 01:09am PT
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Words to live by-
"bubble wrap your hard drive"
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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Yer makin' me nervous fellers...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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But don't fret none, piligrims! Up here in tha scenic paradise of Whine County's high country...
We got's five-star veethree's that even fat, old, greenhorns on guided dude ranch trips -- you know, guys like this Rodeo Clown -- can Bust a Bronco on! HooooEEEE GIT SUM!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 02:33am PT
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This must be the dawning of the age of Aquarius. Being a '58 baby as you I prefered the plateau when the best Mexican eats in Utah used to be in Caineville until they moved to the Torrey metropolis.
Ho Man, you must mean the Luna Mesa Cafe. I used to hang with Dennis the Owner a bit. He was certifiably insane. Kidnapped by aliens, the works. And grilled one damn fine rib eye.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 03:01am PT
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Yep, don't know what ta tell ya boys, but you can park yer car, warm up on this here thang, shoulder yer crack rack and walk ten minutes to do some God's Own Splitters on them thar high Wingate cliffy-thangies. Shore is purty in these parts.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Feb 14, 2013 - 03:06am PT
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I'm on my way...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 03:44am PT
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What, drive for a gazillion miles to yank pockets on big rocks barely the size of my grandaddy's root cellar?!
Sure, why not.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 04:38am PT
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BK, the stealth sw0le, the Tiny Dancer, unofficial Flagstaff Dalai Lama and reluctant gravitational center of the Flagtown trans-generational newschool and oldschool scenes, tip-toeing up "The Hornshroom", a massively classic problem that took me a few tries. Well, quite a few tries. Well, many, many tries. Don't ask me about the name, I wasn't there and that's my story and I'm stickin' to it. Wayne County just don't get much better than this. It's a good, honest workingman's 20 footer with the crux at the top yarding on a craky flake. Berg heil!
This is where I'd usually decide to downclimb a couple of moves and jump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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Once the Big Stones are over the lip
You sure as hell ain't gonna slip
Even with dedicated cuppers to soften the trip!
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weezy
climber
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Feb 16, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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what in the wide wide world of sports is this thread doing on page five??? not on my watch.
here's to chossy domes, tight slots, pocketed rocks and camping in the soot
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 16, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
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scheriously pondering another trip. last trip was pre-Shanty panti flapper... oh1 maybe. when do it melt out?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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Wayne County Godstones. We're back.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Feb 22, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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Of course, we all know I'm just shilling for this guy. I get a $0.002 cent commission on every copy sold! w00t w00t!
looks like some folks need to write a guide to everything in the world.....i am left wondering WTF4? really?
thats too f*#king bad.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 12:50am PT
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His guide will direct you to some obvious spots that have been previously covered in numerous previous guides, but aside from Big Rocks there is nothing this thread that's in his book. I located all of'em the old-fashioned way -- by learning to read maps, interpreting aerial photos, having a good 4X4, memorizing the stratigraphic column of the Clorado Plateau, getting freindly with the old-timer ranchers and BLM and Forest Service types, and having a willingness to drive and hike and explore just for the fun of it. Explore much?
Same as it ever was.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Feb 22, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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Explore much?
i climbed at big rocks while you were still trying to be a legend in your own mind.
i climbed in capitol reef while the slings on the Castle were still useable from the FA.
i am lamenting a guidebook for every corner of the world.
sorry, but thats old school, you know before pads.
carrion.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 01:10am PT
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i climbed at big rocks while you were still trying to be a legend in your own mind.
You were climbing at Big Rocks in 1973?! Damn, son.
Excuse me. I didn't realize it was a competition. But if it is...sure, I'll take the Pepsi challenge.
I'd been bouldering daily for over 20 years before the first "Crash Pads" (duct tape coated sofa matresses?) became a twinkle in Verm's eye. Unless you count the pilfered curry mattress that Yabo threw under Bachar Cracker in '76/77. I thot BC was a big sporty before then...those blocks were gnar on the backbones.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 22, 2013 - 09:40am PT
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Friday morning bump for the hard-drivin' goods...
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 22, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
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still waiting for my mind to be blown with Wayne County sw0le!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
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Lotsa fun, throwaway 30 minute circuits 5 minutes from the Cap Reef NP Visitor Center...the wall behild and on the left in this pic has a great line-up of old 5.10 and 5.11 and 5.12 splitters. Hong, Bruckman, Olevsky, et al. 80's stuff.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 27, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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Keep'm comin' bvb.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Feb 27, 2013 - 01:32am PT
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So ol' Hawk was there before carrion?
Man, that's a long time ago.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 27, 2013 - 08:57am PT
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Its easy to have been everywhere when you're really nowhere at all
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 27, 2013 - 09:51am PT
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Bob... keep the pics coming...
And Hawk.... so do you have any cool photos to share?
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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MORE SW0LE PLEASE!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 28, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
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the wall behild and on the left in this pic has a great line-up of old 5.10 and 5.11 and 5.12 splitters. Hong, Bruckman, Olevsky, et al. 80's stuff.
Entrance to Grand Wash? The 5.12 Hong line on the left wall is BADASS.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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bvb from MkFkMk (aka BJB):
"Big Rocks!"
"Long legs!"
Not a hater, just not a doer.
Want some pads? Bicycle racers like these kind.
Good shots, every body! It's what bouldering is for--viewing.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
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Endless expanse. Alpine talus fields of bliss.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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Entrance to Grand Wash? The 5.12 Hong line on the left wall is BADASS.
Yes! He did that thing in the spring of '84 with Karen Budding. Can't remember the name, but there was a plaque at the base when we found it. 12a maybe? Uber-classic, thin fingers to wyde and everything in between...full-value route.
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doom
climber
durango
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Aug 18, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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Thanks everyone for this great thread! Best thing I've seen on any climbing forum.
Just did a three day weekend up there, wow........
The sunrise on day one was so f'in good that I could hardly complain about getting rained out all day. Curious about a couple of things. Any one climb the second pitch above super sharp crack? my buddy backed off it at the manky old bolt, due to not having enough big stuff to protect the looming chimney. Can you get any pro up in that thing? Also does the supper amazing, long, small hands fingers crack to the left of ssc have a name other than f*#k yeah!?
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weezy
climber
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Aug 18, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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nice bump, doom! there's some gold in them henry mountains, eh?
i've only done the first pitch of the super sharp crack aka Burning Taco. but according to the old topo i have it says:
P1 5.10 fist, P2 5.12a thin crack, P3 5.11
the thin crack left of SSC/BT just says "5.11a finger crack" on the topo. the bolted arete to the right of the crack sorta inside the weird cave-slot thing is called the Wedding Arete (11a).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Bump for Big Stone, bvb's nom de guerre!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 31, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
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Big Bumps for Bobsake...
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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May 31, 2015 - 07:43pm PT
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bump for not letting gear reviews kick big rocks of the front....backcountry ski's..in june....seriously...
keep em comin boob, er bob
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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May 31, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
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more bob
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2016 - 08:27pm PT
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Y'all BITCHES sayin' you want more BIG MUTHAFUKIN' ROCKS?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2016 - 08:31pm PT
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'Cause we got that, all up on it yo.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2016 - 08:35pm PT
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Like. A. Boss.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
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It won't be pretty, but it won't be boring. You lame-ass wanna-be butt-knuckle numb-nut eldo-prancer dick-smoker bvb bob-is-god wannabees.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 19, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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One of the best threads ever. BVB, funny sh#t all throughout. Thanks.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 19, 2016 - 10:45am PT
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My bad, I thought you meant this kind of big rocks...like for big boyz.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 19, 2016 - 03:36pm PT
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Pfft, big boyz don't watermark their photos, big boyz don't give a sheet.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2016 - 04:13pm PT
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I bet the central tower gets climbed more often than some of those very excellent looking probs upthread.
True, and not for lack of trying...but I'll wager that an ascent of a major Patagonian tower sticks with you a lot longer than the latest genereric v13. Just sayin. Although there are a few boulder problems that in my little mental landscape will reverberate long and hard and forever, due to the confluence of time and people and place I associate with them.
Thing is this: It's all climbing, and it's all good. The one caveat I'd add is that these twelve-person deep rolling camarillas following the same tired paths to the same tired problems will not get what I'm trying to say here. You need to downsize and explore no-mans-land to have the adventure.
I'll remember this day, this problem, the place I was at and the people I was with forever:
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 10, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
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BUMP
In memory of BVB.
Straight up f uc k i n g L E G E N D.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 11, 2017 - 09:13pm PT
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in respect to now gone BVD (and my curiosity), where was the photo in
Thing is this: It's all climbing, and it's all good. The one caveat I'd add is that these twelve-person deep rolling camarillas following the same tired paths to the same tired problems will not get what I'm trying to say here. You need to downsize and explore no-mans-land to have the adventure.
I'll remember this day, this problem, the place I was at and the people I was with forever:
taken? His words are a wonderful reflection on what I regard as the climbing life.
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| Messages 1 - 302 of total 302 in this topic |
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