Discussion Topic |
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 12, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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Clint, Dan, Bob, and I replaced the bolts on the "North Face Route", "Nuts and Bolts", and the "Tom Rogers Route" on Mt. Starr King this past weekend. Clint and I saw a good size Rattle Snake close up on the hike out Sunday.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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You guys rock(literally)!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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You guys are awesome, Roger. Tireless efforts!
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Jun 12, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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edit for Roger- "North Face Route" above should say "West Face Route".
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 12, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 12, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
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Those fingernails are pretty long for a climber. :)
LOL!
Thanks, guys, for your excellent and ongoing work.
John
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Jun 12, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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Thanks Clint and Roger! I have been wanting to get up there and climb that.
Steve
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jun 12, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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Hopefully we'll be seeing more trip reports from out there now. Somebody should get busy on that incredible mushroom boulder on the Mono Meadows approach too.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 12, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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Here are the current options for crossing Illouette Creek on the Mono Meadow approach.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
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Roger needs long fingernails - they help when he plucks out old bolts with his bare hands.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Jun 12, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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We also managed to photograph the summit register entries from 1990 to present and climb some virgin rock.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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YESH! Thx guys! Such a great rock back there.
How were the bugs?
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Jun 12, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
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No bugs, cool nights and warm days. Outside of sunburn, perfect conditions.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Jun 12, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Badass, Thanks. By the way these are terrible routes and not worth the hassle to get to. Don't bother and please warn all your friends...
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jun 12, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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Hey Clint, you got a picture of Star King with an overlay of all it's routes drawn in?
Thinking about heading up to that particular rock sometime this year myself.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 15, 2012 - 06:22am PT
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Sure, Chad - here is an updated overlay of Starr King West Face, and a prelim overlay for Dome Baez:
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 15, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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Here are approach details for the West Face climbs, from Mono Meadow.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Jun 15, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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You are totally correct, Wade. The place is a hellhole, the routes generally degrade the climbers, the approach is wading through icy creek water, the possibilities of new routes are rare, and the climbs are too low angle to interest anyone who has been on the GPA. Fergeddit.
Oh, yeah, the views from there are all Half Dome, Half Dome, Half Dome.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Jun 15, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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So GREAT to re-visit those climbs and to see that the original bolts have weathered the years well. But it's also great to see them replaced. Thanks for doing that work, tho, like you guys say, it's really not worth going in there to climb...
Banquo: In your second picture, was that a Dolt Hanger that you removed? If so, perhaps you could send it to LilaBiene who is Dolt's daughter and who would appreciate it more than anyone that I know.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 15, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
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It was fun to finally locate Nuts and Bolts - I thought for sure it was where "West Flake" is; that turned out to be quite a bit easier.
Here's a link to Ken's photo trip report of the first ascent in 1972:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1292666&msg=1293125#msg1293125
Still looking for bolts on the NW Face....
That was an SMC stainless hanger on the West Face, added next to the first bolt by someone (vs. Dolt which is chrome moly).
Did you place those bolts on pitch 4 on the FA? Only the top one is mentioned in the Roper description, so I guess he didn't get the route description direct from you?
Here's one of those views of Half Dome, from the Mono Meadow trail, early evening on the hike out:
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Jun 15, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
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I helped Roper a fair amount on the "Green Guide." And since the Starr King climbs were done in 1970, they probably didn't have a second ascent before it came out. He must have gotten those descriptions from me, tho I doubt that I have the original notes anymore.
My memory has faded on just what bolts I might have placed. I assume what I placed is in the descriptions in the "Green Guide."
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Jun 15, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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Thank you, CC. The photos of Tim climbing are so magic for me. I never climbed much with the man, but he was serious about his climbs but not about life's problems. A full-time cool person.
It's nice for me to see the Dawg's portrait, as I never had the pleasure of meeting him. You're a handsome dog, Ken. Too bad you didn't get a summit shot of the two of you studs. It would have been gold.
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 15, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
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I remember the brutal approach to Mt. Starr King.
It was only few hundred feet as I stepped out of the helicopter near the base to start the climb ......
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Jun 16, 2012 - 09:05am PT
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Werner - why not land on top? What were you thinking?
BooDawg - As Clint says, the hanger was a SS SMC that must have been added later.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 16, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
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Good work on the bolt replacement project.
100% winners
you guys are a huge force!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Jun 16, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
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If there's a question about what bolts I may have placed, if it is NOT a 1/4" Rawl Drive with a nut, holding on a Leeper hanger, I would not have placed it. If it is that, it's likely I did place it, but it's still possible someone else did.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:43am PT
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Sick pics Banquo and Clint. Is one of those lines on Baez a Warbler route?
The wide dihedral in same photo (SW skyline) looks inviting too.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Sep 13, 2012 - 03:06am PT
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I might be interested in attempting a new route in a few weeks. Maybe taking a lap or two on existing routes as well.
Not this weekend though.
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Gary
Social climber
Monza by the streetlight
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Sep 13, 2012 - 09:02am PT
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Nice work. That's some great rock back there.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 13, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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Clint, you show the grades for the climbs on Baez, how about the grades for Mt. Starr King?
As always, ++ Work!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 13, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
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Kevin,
> The wall to the right has some potential. Anyone know of routes over there?
Here's a slightly more direct link to AlDude's unfinished route right of Walkabout:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=163599&msg=164304#msg164304
"West of Starr King? Cashner and I got 4 pitches up central line in 1990. After two horrendous 1/4 inch horror shows attempt ended on big loose flake in near darkness with much 5.11 to go. I think Chapman and Worral later established an 8 pitch 5.10 to the left. Could be mistaken though."
[I believe we later determined that Walkabout was done after 1990]
There is one more climb on Dome Baez not shown on my overlay photo, further around to the right in an obvious straight-up corner system, a 3 pitch 5.9.
Kelly,
Here are ratings and pitch counts for the climbs on the Starr King overlay photo:
 NW Face 5.9, 7p (we have been unable to locate this so far, need to look more!)
Starry Starry Knight 5.10a, 9p in right facing shallow dihedrals - could use some more research on this also - climb it and send me a topo!
West Face 5.8, 8p (maybe 5.9 directly up the bolts)
West Flake 5.7
Flake Exit 5.8 (exit right early past the bolt Roger replaced)
Illilouette Face 5.5 R, 9?p, aka Tom Rogers SW Face route
Nuts and Bolts 5.8, 8p
Joe,
Wish I could join you for exploring up there this weekend, but I already have plans....
Chad,
If you could use topos for the leftmost 3 routes on Dome Baez, I have them.
I had hoped to locate the AlDude route there on a previous trip, but ran out of time after checking out (existing) routes on a dome further to the east.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Sep 13, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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There is one more climb on Dome Baez not shown on my overlay photo, further around to the right in an obvious straight-up corner system, a 3 pitch 5.9.
Clint,
Is this the 5.9 Thomas Addison (teamwhipper) mentions?
We called that dome Dome Baez in 1984, when we established Diamonds and Rust (left side of dome as pictured; 10c chickenheads) and some 5.9 all gear line reminiscent of The Surprise on the right side.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 14, 2012 - 06:26am PT
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Kevin,
Thanks for the further story on Walkabout - sounds like one of those great onsight adventures that makes for great memories!
Here is an overlay guess - the photo shows many of the features, like the crack system / finger crack and I guessed the belays and bolt locations from your description.
Got any edits for this overlay? I'll like to make something more accurate than my guess! :-)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 14, 2012 - 06:29am PT
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Nate,
Here's a photo of Dome Baez - East Face which shows Tom's 5.9 corner system.
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 15, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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Was in there about three weeks ago and did a variation of West Face route. After the second pitch I headed out right to a small left facing corner. There was an old piton here that I removed BY HAND. It had CMI stamped on it if any one has any idea. Left a #4 DMM Peanut in it's place. Gear karma you know. Any way the route from there heads straight up but never rejoins West Face. 5.8+R would seems about right. Super fun dome and way closer of an approach than I thought. As far as water there is none up high. We camped right after the Illouite creek crossing on the left. Fron there it's about 45 minutes to the base. Looked at Walkabout on Dome Biaz as well. What a sweet looking line. I'd figured it had been done so thanks for the info.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 15, 2012 - 03:57am PT
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Kevin,
Thanks for all the edits and additional details.
I updated the photos - should be fairly close now (although the offroute bolts might still be off).
You might have to refresh the browser to see the new versions.
[edited photos again 9/17 to move the higher off route bolt - thanks, Kevin]
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Sep 17, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Sweet pics. Stone porn of the highest order.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Sep 18, 2012 - 12:19am PT
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Nice! How did you get up?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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May 24, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
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Hey Warbler,
We're heading up to Starr King in the second week of June. Will possibly get on your route on Dome Baez. I take it that all climbs to the top are walk offs?
Thanks!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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May 25, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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We will replace all bolts when on it. Sounds like a great route.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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May 25, 2013 - 02:30am PT
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Also wondering about "diamonds and rust". Clint's overlay calls it 5.11br and teamwhipper calls it 10c. Guess we'll find out.
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ruppell
climber
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May 25, 2013 - 09:42am PT
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wstmrnclmr
Have fun on Walkabout. Thanks in advance for replacing the bolts on it. It's one of those lines that begs to be climbed. We approached from Mono Meadows and it was pretty casual. Some amazing stuff back there for sure.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 25, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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annnnnd bump.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 28, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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Tony,
Also wondering about "diamonds and rust". Clint's overlay calls it 5.11br and teamwhipper calls it 10c. Guess we'll find out.
The topo which Tom sent me shows:
p1: boulder problem start, climb past "donut chickenhead" (xenolith), faint dikes with 5.11b section, 1 bolt before diagonal dike, 1 bolt after dike, 80'.
p2: 5.9 knobs, 3x, somewhat runout. 165' stretch to ground (or to top of p1, not sure)
p3: 1x, 5.10-
p4: cracks
I will get you a copy of the topo.
It was a scanned topo drawn with pencil, somewhat faint, so there might be more bolts than what I could see.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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May 28, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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mmmmm granite!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Hey Warbler,
How many bolts on "walkabout"? Are there anchor bolts besides the two face bolts? We have permits to go in from Glacier. Any tips on hike in?
Thanks, Tony
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Last year we crossed on a sturdy log (mono meadows approach). I'm guessing it is still there given the mild winter we had this year.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Thanks Kevin. We'll definitely take picks if we get on it.
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ruppell
climber
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*cough*mono meadows is easy*cough*
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Hey Warbler,
Any big gear on Walkabout?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jun 12, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
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Hey folks,
Does anybody have a written description and/or topo for the Southwest "Tom Rogers" route?
Thanks, Tony
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reach
Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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As of 6/22/13 there's still good water flowing as shown in Clint's approach beta.
The West Face of Starr King is a fun climb. I'll definitely be going back to get on Starry Starry Night to try and figure out where it goes.
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gunsmoke
Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
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Apr 24, 2014 - 10:21pm PT
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Starr King is a 9000' summit, so where's the snow? It's going to be a dry summer.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Apr 24, 2014 - 11:58pm PT
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since it's been bumped ;)
here's one above 2nd pitch of nuts n bolts
i was happy to clip it
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 25, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
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Joe,
Thanks for sharing your great photos. I found several on your site that I liked, too.
I did a photo hike to get shots of the domes S/SE of Starr King 2 years ago, but your shots from further back are much better than mine!
splitclimber,
Thanks for your shots of Nuts and Bolts. It's always good to have a reason to go back (and summit this time!).
Ken's 1/4" there are still pretty strong - it doesn't get that wet on that climb.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Apr 25, 2014 - 04:36pm PT
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Love the new photos!
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Apr 25, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
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the 3rd pitch up the rib is really good and ends above that roof at a nice small bench with a good crack for a gear anchor. The adventure was high going up and not seeing any bolts and no gear placements.
I think there was only 2 bolts on pitch 3 then a random one a pitch below the tree. The rest is just 5 fun. :)
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Apr 25, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
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Ya, Joe's photo's are always beautiful. I plan on going back out this year to retro a climb Miss Colleen and I did last year. I will be happy to help replace anything old left on the dome. The photo's of Starr and Baez would be great for topo's......Speaking of which, have to get on Baez and replace as well.
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