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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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I climbed my last El cap route about 26 years ago. Since that time. there's been some key negatives in my life, mainly, alcoholism and cancer. But I can say this with 100% certainty - since that last climb, even in my darkest hours, not one single day in my life has gone by where I haven't envisioned myself back on the big stone. Often, when I couldn't sleep, just picturing myself pasting a head or lounging in a portaledge would be enough to calm my mind down and get me to sleep.
So almost a year ago (and I'm 53 now), I started planning out my comeback to the vertical world - I had finally beaten alcohol (so far, and one day at a time), and in November (last year), I would be declared "cancer free". So this was going to be my gift from me to me - going back to what I loved the most.
I trained like a madman, and slowly but surely, built up a modern wall rack (my first El Cap route was before camming devices were available). I set my sights on ZM, and this was to be a solo - something I had never done. Mark Hudon literally taught me how to solo correctly and efficiently through many emails, complete with videos and photos, and chats on the phone - the man is SUCH a wealth of knowledge!
Fast forward to 3 weeks ago - I was sober still and had been declared "cancer free" last November. Life was good! Then I had a routine blood test for an unrelated issue. As soon as my oncologist got a copy of the test, he IMMEDIATELY ordered a CT scan. 2 days later, I'm in his office and get a brick in the face - cancer was BACK - in a big way. So they order the PET scan. Not only do I have cancer in the lung, liver, 2 lymph node masses, and possibly the spine, I've also got a failing kidney, which they need to put a stent in to restore its function.
Alright, so I've got cancer -I beat it once, and I'll do it again. But this is pretty bad timing, seeing as I'm supposed to leave for the ditch in 10 days from today. But the kidney thing is my worst enemy right now. It throws off your electrolyte and enzyme balance, and hinders red blood cell formation, causing anemia, which in turn causes fatigue, shortness of breath, increased hear rate, etc. So THAT'S why I couldn't finish a 27 mile bike ride 3 night ago - something that is so EASY for me
So it's the 11th hour now, and I'm pretty crushed. With big time cancer treatment coming up, I know this is probably the only chance I'm gonna get to live out my dream. I was hoping to keep climbing until I was too old to do it, but that's over with now.
My gut is telling me - "Don't be light, just go!" And I feel like I CAN climb - I just can't carry the bags up to the base or off the top, and am having a hell of a time trying to find a summit team.
Stage 4 cancer with a failing kidney, and I still want to solo El Cap - people who aren't climbers think I'm absolutely nuts!
I meet with the doctors on Thursday - they've already told me to go, but they don't know how much this kidney thing is affecting me. But I HAVE to do it!! I've worked too hard for this, only to get bitch-slapped by cancer again!
Whatever happens, SOOO much thanks to Hudon, and to Ekat and GAGner for keeping the stoke alive!!! Oh yeah... and F**K cancer!
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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Right on!
Yer gonna live
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monolith
climber
albany,ca
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You won't have any problems getting sherpas for approach or descent. Just ask here!
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ec
climber
ca
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Damn...Ian!
 ec
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Life on the other side better be wonderful, because for all the worry and depression and everything else bad that we go thru later in life has to pay for something,
i pray for you along with many others on the taco,
rent a stack of ,funny movies, mel brooks, steve martin,
if i can find a way to climb el cap for you, i will.
we love you, cj
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Good thoughts going your way. Climb and have fun!
Erik
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Ian, thanks for pushing all of us to do better with what we have.
And oh yeah, thanks for making me feel like a little weenie too...... :0)
I agree with Fatty, find a good partner if you can. It takes nothing away from you and bumps your odds.
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steve shea
climber
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Ian, you beat it once you'll do it again. Go for it, climb ZM, you will succeed. SS
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Damn Ian . . . what a brutal blow. Life sometimes seems like a cruel hoax, you are a brave person to deal with this so candidly in the public eye. Best wishes for your battle . . . you can overcome whatever obstacle is in your way! We are all sending positive vibrations your way.
Have fun in Yosemite . . . should be plenty of good folks willing to do some hiking for you.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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That's pretty lousy timing! Arrgh!
It sounds like you have a battle on your hands, and won't be able to get back on El Cap anytime soon.
If you don't get back to El Cap, at least you have done it.
It's a dream that some people have and never accomplish.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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First off, best of luck in everything.
I'd agree on switching from solo to team if possible. And possibly an easier climb.
If you don't line up sherpas here you can always find some in the valley. Stop by the bridge and ask.
If this is a once in a lifetime climb you could trade gear at the top for sherpa help coming down.
If it doesn't work out, find another dream, climbing is great but there are other worthy adventures too.
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Gilwad
climber
Frozen In Somewhere
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I don't know you, but I think the attitude is rad. Good luck.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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So, in an immediate sense, you're looking for people to carry to the base around the 14th? and then load haulers from the top several days later?
jaybrofiveone three atmedotcalm
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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You will be in my thoughts and prayers and I'm hoping for the very best!
And, like they say 'it ain't over, till, it's over!'...keep standing strong, bro!!
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Wow, what a story Ian. I know that we all check out of this place sooner or later. All of us, and all too soon. But I am wishing you a pain free and speedy recovery, followed by the best trip up the stone which anyone has ever ever done or experienced. Or the reverse, big stone first then recovery: whichever way it plays. All the best.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Climb-on.
Thanks for sharing. Best to you.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Ian,
Best thoughts your way. Go to the Valley, if your up for it. Once your there, take the next step. I'm sure the kidney issue is your biggest problem, as far as climbing the big stone. Best of luck to you!
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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what are your dates? i don't get back to cali until mid-july, but if i am around i'll hump a load.
good luck to you.
j
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
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Wow - thanx for all the support. I can appreciate the obvious of getting a partner - I tried getting any of my old crew to go, but no luck. So the idea of a solo seemed more and more like the way to get back on the stone in a big way. Now I'm so wired for solo that it's all I can think of. The Hudon method - like Mark told me, "hey, at our age, just shoot for 2 pitches a day, set up the ledge, and just enjoy being on El Cap. And ZM seemed like a good fit - not only that, but as timing would have it, Hudon was going to be right next door on the Straw at the same time.
I THINK I've got a couple of non-climber mules to help me get up to the base.
I would GLADLY hand out some gear for a couple of sherpas from the top!
I think this decision is getting easier - MANY THANKS for all your comments.
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
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I was going to leave on the 14th, fix 2 on the 15th, haul gear to the base and blast on the 16th (Saturday)
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I feel awful offering only support but no tangible help, since I'm still in injury recovery mode.
What an inspiring post and thought! My prayers and best thoughts are with you.
John
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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I can carry loads for you on that weekend Ian.
PM me if you decide to follow your heart.
Best wishes Bro!
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nature
climber
CO
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We could take up a beer fund collection for the porters that meet him on top. Doesn't seem right to have a guy that gave up booze foot the bill for the beer. Also doesn't seem right that said porters don't get beer.
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
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Man who gave up booze would buy beer - I've already got to give Tom some Cobras at the bridge as it is!
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Hey Ian,
Floored when I read your post. Glad you came to the "right" decision. Just got the "clean" read myself from Stage 4. My thought since day one was "it will enhance me, not define me".
But it is the gift that keeps on giving isn't it? Enjoy every nano second on El Cap my friend. I hope to be right behind you!
Dane
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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**SUPERTOPO SEZ F*#K CANCER!!**
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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Right on, Dane - my thought was always "Cancer will never kill me". Oddly enough, though I've lost my mother, father, and sister - all to cancer - in the last 6 years. But I was the one to survive, for whatever reason. So when I got the diagnosis again, it was like "Again? REALLY?"
Life goes on!
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climbera5
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Don't live with regret. Do it while you can and you can write a best seller when you conquer both. God speed!
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Double D
climber
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Ian...my prayers and best wishes for a successful recovery on that whole cancer deal. Also congratulations on your daily victories ...keep it up.
As for the Captain ... she's made 'o stone mate so no worries she'll be waiting .
Dave
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Hey Ian -
Glad to see you get this off your chest - bummed me out when you told me about it a few weeks ago.
You're strong and motivated. You've got lots of support from your friends on the Taco, and elsewhere.
I know you will do this, and have a blast. And then beat this F#$@@r, again!!
Call me any time bro.
WOO FRICKIN HOO!!!
Paul
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You sound like a helluva guy. My best wishes to you and remember we're all waiting for a TR.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Who knows what the future holds.
Ahh hell what's the worse that happens.
Which is worse?
A. You go for it..You get a little xtra tired.. get a few pitches up and it dosn't happen for you..
B. You don't go for it.. and you never come back.. mebbe cause of cancer ..maybe just cause life is a busy thing?
Seems a lot more risk not going for it in my way of thinking.
heh the positive side of negative thinking?
Course there is this great scenario..
You go for it.. it kicks your ass a bit but you pull it off. You go home and then you kick the sh#t out of cancer. You make a million dollars selling the story and they make the greatest climbing film evah!! :)(better than Padula's El'Capitan)
Cause f*#k Chemo can't be worse than soloing a wall... can it?
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zBrown
Ice climber
mercenario de merced
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You've come such a long way Ian and even further to go. There's no stopping now, you've already more than proved that you can. Everybody here agrees. The doctors say to go. Just pin them down something for your kidney so your physical energy level stays up there with your psychic.
Whose woods these are I think I know.
His house is in the village though;
He will not see me stopping here
To watch his woods fill up with snow.
My little horse must think it queer
To stop without a farmhouse near
Between the woods and frozen lake
The darkest evening of the year.
He gives his harness bells a shake
To ask if there is some mistake.
The only other sound’s the sweep
Of easy wind and downy flake.
The woods are lovely, dark and deep.
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep.
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BASE1361
climber
Yosemite Valley National Park
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Sorry to hear this Ian.
If there was one last thing to do or place to be I'd get there. Your friends and family support you. You have an outlook on life that many people in this world don't get a chance to see and maybe never will.
There's always hesitation at the exit point. It's part of why we do all this madness. Same with climbing my friend. You know once you commit and step off into the void that it's one of the most blissful places in time to be.
Climb El Cap
1361
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Hi Ian,
So sorry to hear of your diagnosis. I know that the road ahead will be rocky, but from where I am sitting that is all the more reason to get up there. The power and positive energy that will be flowing through you prior to, during and after that ascent will be magic that you will want on your side while going through your treatment.
I did have a large melanoma removed once that would have killed me had my surgeon not gotten it when he did, but have been lucky otherwise, personally, when it comes to the big C. I have dealt with Paralytic Polio at 9 months, Post Polio Syndrome for 40 years, cars running into me and leaving me much the worse for wear, as well as two assaults that left me seriously injured. After the second one, in 09, I took two and a half years off climbing to recover. My first climb since was on May 17th, when I jugged El Cap for the 15th time in 23 1/2 hours, up Zodiac. My 6th IAD of the Captain plus a 29 hour lap up ZM in 02. Getting ready for a return to the Diamond in July for my fifth time up that proud alpine stone. Though I'll be 60 this year, and after the car that crushed my right foot when it hit me on my m/c in 08 I have to use two poles and my left leg almost exclusively to get around, I feel like the luckiest man alive. I don't think I'd feel quite the same way were I to have given up on this crazy dream somewhere along the way.
Though I obviously can't help out with carrying bags for you, I'll be sending you good thoughts and positive energy
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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This is heart wrenching. I tip my hat to you for conquering these incredible difficulties. You've got my positive support 100%.
I've got finals coming up, but if I was somehow in the Valley that weekend I'd be happy to haul a load to the base or from the top.
Bryce
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A5scott
Trad climber
Chicago
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Cancer can suck it. Get out there and do it! I think the best way to beat cancer is to never give up on your dreams, and keep on keepin on, until we are hanging out in that mighty Portaledge in the sky. Keep positive and focused on your goals, stay happy and you win every time.
Prayers and mojo sent. Wishing you all the best and I'm so looking forward to your trip report!
Scott
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Hannes
climber
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Good luck and all the best! Had I been anywhere near I would gladly have helped carry
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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ian, i hope it works out for you and you get to climb el cap. all my best to you, steve schneider
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Do every thing you can....I am an ovarian cancer survivor (chemo finished a year ago)..my every 3 month blood tests give me anxiety to no end....so in between I try to jam it all in...just in case. Your attitude is inspiring for me...to live and thrive as best we can....good luck to you!
Susan
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Johno
Big Wall climber
Cape Town / Japan
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Ian, I'm rooting for you from a LNG Project in Sulawesi, Indonesia.
Go for it & have fun, then sort your health out when you are done climbing the Big Stone.
Best wishes,
Johno
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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I really hope you go for the Captain. 26 years of that memory is too long to go without having new ones.
And kick cancer's ass.
I look forward to a great TR from you and send you all my best wishes and energy for both journeys ahead.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Awesome thread!
Prod.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Yer gonna live Phil-B for the win.
Count my son and me in for whatever hauling duty you need.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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I know you will do this, and have a blast. And then beat this F#$@@r, again!!
Can't say it better. Looking forward to your TR. And best wishes.
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Edwardmw
climber
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I'll carry your bags to the base. Just say when.
Ed
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Brian
climber
California
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Sometimes this "place" is incredible.
F*#k cancer. Send.
Brian
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nita
Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
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Can't help but think of Lance Armstrong, who had stage 3 testicular cancer with a tumor that had metastasized to his brain, abdomen and lungs..... He dragged himself out of bed everyday to ride his bike..
*Ian, rooting for you ..and sending up prayers...
*Live strong....
*Stay positive..
*Saludos..
*Salud.....To your health...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kt5wnvnQ3bc&feature=related
# Yep....F*#k Cancer..
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 09:18am PT
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Everyone here on the taco has been incredible! I'm overwhelmed to say the least - many thanks!
I think you've made my mind up for me - yeah, f**K this cancer thing and GO!!
Well, off to the hospital right now to get my lung tumor biopsied - really no big deal.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Knock it out, man. One step, one day at a time. Put yourself in a better frame of mind by getting on the rock. Get it done and get back to the whole cancer thing 2 weeks later. None of us make it off this island alive and you sound like you've got your priorities right. Go get it for yourself and for the rest of us.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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you might find something here. i have several copies of this book because one of my favorite professors, the late wayland hand of ucla, helped edit this work and wrote the foreword for it.
stan zundel discovered climbing rather late in life when he was desperate with a case of cancer. he got into climbing in a big way, and his cancer, rather miraculously, went into remission. funny thing about cancer. at the time (early 80s) he was living with a rather strict, stark diet and doing a lot of climbing.
if you email a snail mail address, i'd be glad to send you a copy.
http://www.amazon.com/Climb-To-Live-transcendency-mountain/dp/B0006XY03O
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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So sorry to hear of your prognosis, but there is always hope.
I am reminded of the anecdote about an old aristocrat on his estate in France. He tells his gardener to plant a row of trees and the gardener says,
"But sir, these trees will not mature for a hundred years."
He replies, "Then there is no time to lose! Plant them this afternoon."
There is no time to lose, and we are pulling for you.
Rick
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Or, my favorite saying as of late is:
"EVERYONE DIES, NOT EVERYONE LIVES"
WOOT IAN, psyched to see pictures o you up on ZM on Tom's site!!
PSYCH!!
Paul
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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EVERYONE DIES, NOT EVERYONE LIVES
Like it!
Give it to me, give it to me.
I got it--Inspiration!
and yeah, F*#k Cancer.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Go for it. We're all dead. You just have a better idea of when it might happen.
Hell, I'll fly out from CT to carry your sh#t to the base and down from the top.
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Hey Ian,
We're almost the same age. I haven't climbed el cap, but it is a dream of mine.
Two of my lady friends have been battling different types of cancer this year. I have been totally amazed by their courage, resilience and dignity. Now, you are a source of inspiration for me as well.
This is a stupid story, but it's true:
When I was young, I had a wart on my foot. I was totally scared of going to the doctor (still am). I had an appointment scheduled, and the doctor had described how they were going to burn off the wart with some sort of freezing liquid. It was a pretty big wart, but when I woke up the next morning, it had vanished. My Mom's theory was that the wart had gotten scared and just gone away.
So, maybe it can work that way with cancer. Keep thinking of scary hooking and top stepping on copperheads with rusty cables and the cancer will get scared - It will not want any part of A4!
Sunlight, blue skies, golden rock are the best medicine you could ask for. Go for it!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Go man.
Yer gonna live!
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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"EVERYONE DIES, NOT EVERYONE LIVES"
I LOVE it! And Ammon's shirt, too!
My mind is made up - I AM GOING!!!!!!!!!!
Can't live the rest of my life regretting what I didn't do.
My thanks to EVERY ONE OF YOU ON THIS THREAD!!! The Taco is Amazing! You have ALL helped me turn the corner! LAST stop - Yates right here in Redding for some SCREAMERS! WOOHOO!!
My Heartfelt thanks to everyone for helping me to see through this fog!!!
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Send it! Have the time of your life, hope to see you there.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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GET SOME!
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Anne
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Wow Ian, you are a major inspiration! You are going to have a rad time for sure :)
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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well i won't be around to carry loads off the top unless it takes you three weeks to climb... so good luck and keep us posted. we are routing for you.
f*#k cancer.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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We usually post "Yur Gonna Die!" on posts about people's upcoming epic climbs.
I send the spirit of Brotherhood contained in that slander even if the actual expression is out of place.
(but indeed, we're all gonna die, we can only choose how to live while we're here and I have total faith we don't actually die when we die)
In any case, wishing you all awesomeness on your solo but maybe consider teaming up with the guy from the Zodiac thread who wants to climb soon but his partner insists on going way too fast
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1845299&tn=0&mr=0
just an idea. Best blessings on attacking the Stone and the journey the disease brings as well
Peace
Karl
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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YER
GONNA
SEND!!!!!!!!
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adikted
Trad climber
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Ian, i dont post much but just wanted to say how truly inspiring your journey is, crush the big stone and crush cancer. Were pulling for you brother...
Greg
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Ian, best wishes and let's hope for a miracle. I hope you get back on the rock. Sending my vibes.
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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So glad you're going for it, Ian. I get my life measured out in 90 day check-ups, after kidney cancer and two big-ass melanomas. I just bought an airline ticket for Kathmandu for October. Now is the time, man. Sending the good vibes your way.
And, by the way, is this not the best ST thread ever?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Have a wonderful adventure on El Cap - you've got a lot of supporters here.
Even Ron and the "Sleds" team will help, though no one is quite sure how.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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I haven't seen anyone say they will help Ian get his stuff down. I am hoping some people have already said they will do it for him. If not, I am offering 50 dollars to someone who helps him get his stuff down. Not to the base, but off the top. I know this isn't much money but I would help him myself if I had the time. This should cover a locals gas money to go and help him if it is needed. I would do all your pig humping if I had the time Ian! You are gonna send!!!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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We need dates and info
I am nearby (reno) can be in the valley in a matter of hours some days.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 10, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
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Yosemite is the perfect place to go to recover from anything. Fullfill your dreams, or just chill out. Man I wish I was there.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Jun 10, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
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I second Jake (great idea, BMD) and will sponsor a porter load off the top from Dave Turner if he is around or someone else if he is not.
-Kate.
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jstan
climber
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Jun 10, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
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All Ian has to do is check in with Tom Evans. Tom can call in the prearranged support troops when they will be needed. There have to be lots of people in C4 who will want to be in on this.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jun 10, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
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Ian, I have a pretty busy summer planned and have my fair share of flights here and there all booked and paid for but if there is any way I can make it, I'll fly down to the Valley just to help you get your gear off the top.
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Jun 10, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
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Never met you but I will porter for ya!
Steve
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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Bump for date change -
Kathy's right - I just saw my oncologist on Friday, he was upset that my failing kidney hadn't been taken care of yet. I didn't know any better - the urologist had called a couple weeks back and set up my "consultation" for tomorrow 06/11. My doc thought he had been pretty clear about getting me in earlier. (Now the thought hits me - if you were an MD, why the hell would you choose to be a urologist - or worse yet, a proctologist? Beats the hell out of me!! LOL! (Sorry if I've offended any medical professionals)
SOOOOO - My doc says he's going to make damn sure I get my kidney done this week, and says I need 2 weeks to recover from it, which means I can't blast until the end of June. Little late, but better than never. Then he made me PROMISE to go climbing - seriously! He was familiar with El Cap - when I told him which part I was climbing, and that it was solo, he said he wanted to get my head examined as well.
After tomorrow, once I know for sure what my medical schedule is, I'll probably post up a new thread and reference this one, since so many offered to help. From the bottom of my heart, I'm truly overwhelmed by all the well wishes and offers of help and support!! You are all amazing!!!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 11, 2012 - 01:30am PT
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I'll carry stuff up and meet you at the top for the hike down if the dates work. I live in Visalia and only have plans I can't change a few days this month so 99% I'll be able to make it. God bless, let me know!
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Jun 11, 2012 - 01:37am PT
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Hey Ian - I'll keep checking for updates and will plan on helping get your gear off of the top.
You are the man!!
Max
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Jun 11, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
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Where we at here? What is happening? Updates?
Not taking a sh#t for 63 days mid chemo (has to be a new world record, right) trust me, I just love them proctologists ;-)
Hey Ian, if you change your mind on a solo and want some old dumb ass for company I'd be happy to join ya. Seriously. Gallows humor can get pretty funny in the right place. I am only up for 1/2 the work of another El Cap route so you would be doing me a huge favor!
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Jun 11, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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damn, that is too bad, but I know you will beat this.
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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This is just pissing me off to no end. Every 2-3 days I seem to get a new medical surprise. This past Tuesday, I went to have a surgery to insert a stent in my right kidney to undo a blockage. Turned out they couldn't put the stent in because the "blockage" in question was yet another tumor, malignant (it got biopsied), in my ureter. So future cancer treatment was going to have to take care of that.
Last night my wife says "your leg looks swollen". Sure enough she was right - my entire right leg was thicker than the left. Today, it was worse. Next thing I know, I'm back at nuclear imaging on an emergency basis, getting a full ultrasound to check for a blood clot(s), which would be bad news. Fortunately, there was no blood clot, but they still don't know what is causing the swelling. I really don't want to be 10 pitches up and get a case of "balloon leg"! So, I see the doc on Monday to discuss all these issues.
SOOO, this climb keeps getting delayed more and more into the heat zone. My original plan was to be fixing TODAY. Doc really wants to see me go for this, but I don't want to have to wait more than 1 more week, with the heat setting in and all that. So me and doc are going to have a chat about the "big picture"
Since I wasn't expecting cancer to show up to the picnic, and now it looks like I probably only have this one last shot, I can honestly say that the thought of not getting on the Captain again hurts way more than the knowledge that I have cancer again, worse than the 1st one. That may sound odd, but to a lot (or most) of you, you probably understand where I'm coming from!
I'll post up again after Monday with an update. I'm still calling it a "go". With all this cancer BS overwhelming my life, a comfy bivy in the middle of El Cap is about the most blissful place I could think of being right now. Sorry about the flakiness with dates, but it just is what it is right now. Cheers...........Ian
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 16, 2012 - 12:57am PT
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Dude I know too much about cancer. You got a lot of crap ahead for sure.
But get on the damn wall..whatever it takes.
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schwortz
Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
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Jun 16, 2012 - 02:45am PT
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i've got time in july to help carry loads to the base or off the top
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SofCookay
climber
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Jun 16, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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Sent you a PM - please check it when you get a chance. Thanks!
Sonya
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jun 16, 2012 - 11:46am PT
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Hang in there...do what you can...all about the journey
Susan
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 23, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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7 days have past since the last post...bump for update!
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Jun 23, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
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Hey, send me an email on here and I'll give you my phone number. I will be in Yos. probably around 06/10 or 06/11 until the 21st. Let me know when I need to be on the top, I'll carry a load, no problem. Got a few friends with me I could probably talk into it too!
Don't worry about the summit team. I may not know you but I think you'll find you got friends here.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 15, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
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With greatest respect
BUMP
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