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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 28, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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I may but a pair for occasional A1/A2 sections of free climbs. Not necessarily walls, but they should serve that purpose also.
FISH is my first choice. Buy what do y'all say?
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Feb 28, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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I think metolius makes pocket aiders that clip neatly to you harness in a pouch
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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I wouldn't like em though for any serious or extended aid work. Then I go with the full scale models.
yeah, I wan't one set. And I lead sometimes with a small pack.
The scenario I foresee is I know I will need them on a certain pitch and clip them on and to the back of my harness as I lead, then deploy them readily with I need them. Just like a pitch, or maybe even some moves, then put them away.
But It would be nice to have a burly set just in case. I'm not into aid, really, just want the gear when I need it.
EDIT: FISH Smart Aiders were my initial choice...Maybe the Alpine Aiders.
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salad
climber
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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well fish of course.
but you do not have the mettle to aid, so just move along.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
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but you do not have the mettle to aid, so just move along.
What leads you to believe that?
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salad
climber
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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lmao!! nothing. dont know where that came from man, was just feeling ornery and saw an in!! sry.. :)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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lol salad!
Take Ezra's Fish ladders. He needs to get a new pair.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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It was probably this part of your post, I'm not into aid, really
Alpine aiders pack up really well into a middle sized camerapouch. But they HUUUUUUUUUUUUUURT if you use them with climbing shoes for more than a few moves. (I have a pair that I give to partners that don't own their own aiders)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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Well, Jeff, I don't fancy myself an aid climber. So you're kinda right. But I do have some experience in the ladders.
It just isn;t most favorite type of climbing. I dig sport and trad, free-climbing.
I just want to score some aiders of my own so when I need them I have them.
Hope yer kids are doing well, bra. I kinda had a feeling you were f*#king with me.
Rock on'!
EDIT: Mucci, maybe I will talk to Ez about that...
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salad
climber
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Feb 28, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
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yeah man i played hookie (sp) from work and took the kids out of school today. we went up to Julian for breaksfast, then snowball fights at Lake Cuyamaca, off to Mt Laguna for 3 hours of sledding, dropped by Pine Valley to show the kids the cabin my grandfather owned when I was a kid, back into Julian for pizza. Everyone is out cold. Great effing day.
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photonez
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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Blue, I just got some new Yates ladders. I'll bring the Fish ladders on Friday after work if you're home. I need to review your Jtree material for the end of March.
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neal clark
climber
moab, ut
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Feb 29, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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check out runoutcustoms.com. just picked up a pair of the 6-step aiders from luke and they're super nice. i think he may have some lighter 5-steps as well.
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Feb 29, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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For an aid move on a "free climb", use a runner.
Or just try harder.
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photonez
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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I would totally dig a Fish hat, but the site says they're sold out.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Feb 29, 2012 - 01:41am PT
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I don't think you should get a lightweight pair if you think you might do a wall and only want one set. Have to bust out some "A1" on a mostly free climb? Girth hitch some slings together. The skinny webbing would be a pain, in more ways than one, on a wall. Once the pace grinds down to take in full pitches of aid, weight doesn't matter much anyway.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 29, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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Salad strikes again!
hahaha
Do the Fish. The metolius are too small for more than a quick jug pitch or two and comfy way to do bolt ladders. You're a fan of fish, so just go for it.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Feb 29, 2012 - 03:32am PT
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who wants to pound some copper heads this weekend,
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 29, 2012 - 09:13am PT
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 29, 2012 - 09:31am PT
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Climbers used to make their own aiders.
Just gave my 30 some year old hand tied ones to the kid. F>>>I>>>S>>>>H>>>>> git to work:-) I think he's backlogged, you should ask what the time frame is. The ladders are nice, but having that sub aider that Robbins use to use is the bomb...I'm gonna miss it.
ps, there is nothing like the Metolius Pocket aider for the long routes with a little aid in it...aka NW Face of Half Dome. Metolius is also making a cordalette thinggy (out of stout webbing) that folds up into a pocket that is AFRIKKAN AMAZING TOO!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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Hey Ez, maybe I'll give you my FISH lid...and some cash.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Feb 29, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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The harder/more often the aid the heavier/stouter/more you want.
Occasional aid move on a free climb, girth some slings together.
Mixed aid and free climb, 2 to 3 classic aiders.
An overhanging tough aid climb, 2 to 4 ladder style aiders.
Note: get different colors so it's easy to tell them apart as they are twisted together in the wind.
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Aider-Reviews/ratings
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