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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2012 - 10:07am PT
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Picacho Peak
1.28.12
I woke up at 5am, 45 minutes earlier than usual, on a Saturday. A recent tendon booboo left me with no climbing plans for the weekend but i felt the urge to get out anyway. It was early and mild, with some whispy clouds in the pre dawn sky. I should watch the sunrise in the desert!
Picacho Peak rises 1500 feet from the desert floor and if you've driven I-10 between Phoenix and Tucson you've certainly seen it. It is a true navigational beacon used for centuries, millenia even, by indians, the Anza Expedition, Father Kino, and modern aviators. Arizona's only Civil War battle was fought here too. Maybe you've stopped at the Dairy Queen.
I had camped and hiked there as a boy. In fact, I saw a ghost, a solitary man standing in a cave at the base, and the image has stayed with me for 35+ years.
When I would leave Tucson after a holiday visit with my late grandmother, Picacho, 40 miles out, was right about where I'd start to get emotional, wondering if I'd ever see her again, if I'd hugged her goodbye for the last time. This continued, years later, thinking about my mother, until I moved back to Tucson three years ago.
Here's a poem I wrote for my Mom years ago.
Too dark now
for even a silhouette of Picacho
the place I usually cry is different
Perhaps I know I'll return
and she'll be there.
I have driven by it literally hundreds of times, always on my way somewhere else, or excited to get home. Never willing to stop, I had never climbed it.
So today was my day, I thought, time to scratch it off the list.
I packed light provisions, loaded my little buddy into the "Toaster", and split. It was 6:15, still plenty dark and still plenty of time to catch the sunrise over the beautiful Sonoran desert.
As I neared 40 miles out, I could see a faint silhouette and was once again overcome by emotion. Lost love, fears, and something else, something I couldn't pinpoint.
Torre? Llamas don't have tail lights.
Some loud music, a cigarette, and my dog's nose in my ear helped quell those feelings, as did my arrival at the trailhead and my excitement for the climb.
The trail climbs quickly, aimed directly at the cave where I'd seen the ghost as a child. It soon became apparent that this peak sees much traffic and has been made accesible to those less fit and lacking basic route finding skills.
I bypassed the cables, choosing the slabs and relying on my way honed quads.
I ignored the signs and called on my years of bitchin navigational skills.
I even wore some patchouli to ward off the ghost that was surely waiting for me in the cave. Trust me, it works.
see, no ghost!
I soon gained the saddle and marveled at the new day arriving over the desert.
From here the route drops steeply around the backside, losing much of the elevation I'd gained. Hate that. There were more cables, what a travesty!
Rosebud led this block, brilliantly passing all the fixed steel. Sorry, butt shot.
This is a truly magestic and formidable mountain, protected on all sides by steep cliffs. After many recent climbs together, our partnership was strong and we were crushing! No cables for us!
We took a quick rest at the Tobac Col, beneath the first real crux, a 25ft near vertical section of polished facing-the-wrong-way holds. Kinda like Rifle. This face was festooned with steel and would be the first real test of our commitment to send by fair means.
Rosebud's been on fire recently and continued leading. She fired the first boulder problem and while milking a rest commented how others had been tempted by the cables, and thus cheated out of a pure ascent.
She continued past a dicey traverse to an exposed ledge, The Perch of Patience, and waited for me.
Brand recognition!
More vertical steps, and cables brought us to a bowl and an ease in difficulty.
Up ahead I saw what may well be the crux and the gateway to the summit- a 40ft steep gully with a crappy crack and, yep, more cables.
It was here I thought about my safety and the safety of my partner. The crack was awkward and the adjacent face, exposed. We decided to use the cables, as there were NO other options. I carried Rosie under my arm(aid). Beyond this, another exposed traverse with a catwalk. We used that too, and soon were switchbacking up rubble fields to the summit.
The windless summit was everything we had imagined, with views for miles and miles.
I rolled a smoke and took some photos.
Product placement!
It was 8:15 am. We had taken exactly one hour to complete what was likely the FCA (First Chihuahua Ascent) of Picacho Peak by fair means, with only one point of aid.
We were jazzed, but our thoughts soon turned to what we should do about the atrocities against desert mountaineering we had seen on our ascent.
We had made outstanding time and the weather was perfect. Should we chop the Civilian Conservation Corps' hideous via ferrata and return the mountain to its natural state? Should we gift future generations with a pristine route to test their skills?
We thought long and hard over that cigarette and kibble, believe me.
Then I peered over the dizzying 1500ft void and saw the parking area filled with cars.
Who were they? How far had they come to test themselves? Did they have grandmothers, ghosts, lost loves? What were their skill levels? Would our chopping of this historic route crush their summit bids and label us as egotistical elitists with no consideration for others, for history?
As the swifts swirled 'round, and with the shadows of saguaros growing shorter with the rising sun, we made a decision we wouldn't regret.
We would let the route remain, as a testament to history, no matter how misguided that history seems today.
Boyscout troops, chubby flatlanders- everybody who's willing to huff it and pull on cables with leather gloves deserves to feel the magic and sense of accomplishment that this summit can offer.
Here's the catwalk on the way down. Thank goD we didn't chop it!
We began our descent confident with our choice, and were validated when we encountered the first party coming up. The look in their eyes, after pulling cable over the cruxy steps, was priceless. They were genuinely stoked. They were also bewildered by my partner.
We passed multiple parties, some confident, some timid, all shapes, sizes, ages. All excited, all surprised to see a bearded man and Chihuahua descending so early.
We took pride knowing they would summit because of our selfless act of restraint!
As with the climb up, we only used one point of aid.
Rosebud continued to blow my mind, too, with her judgement, agility, and manners.
We descended without incident and were back at the car at 9am, with a round trip time of 1:40.
By not chopping the route we avoided being detained by state park rangers, or a public lynching at Dairy Queen.
Epilogue/ funnin' aside
Back at the Toaster I plugged in my phone and checked my messages.
From Farmer, an old Prescott friend:
"Good morning friends, sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Todd was admitted to the hospital last night and passed away this morning..."
Wow.
Gutted.
I had wondered why I had woken early and decided to climb Picacho TODAY.
I wondered about the emotions I felt 40 miles out.
Now I knew.
A brother and his beautiful soul were free, visiting all of us, encouraging us to enjoy this life.
Todd was a good 'ol boy with a heart of gold. He loved the desert. He loved his friends. And he loved climbing.
May he rest in peace.
Hug, and tell people you care about that you love them and are grateful they are part of your life.
You never know when it will be your last hug, last kiss, your last handshake.
Picacho will forever continue to elicit emotions from me.
Thanks for reading.
Hang loose Supertopo. (!!!/
In loving memory of Todd Skaggs 1971-2012
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Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:44am PT
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Great Trip Report! Thanks for sharing and sorry to hear about the loss of your friend.
P.S. Thanks for your act of restraint in not chopping the route. Who knows?...It may end up being the biggest adventure/achievement in someone's year/life/whatever...you da' man
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:45am PT
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Hey drljefe,
That's some very well written prose you got there. Meaningful, emotional and touching, but also the right kind of funny.
Sorry for your (and Farmer's etc.) loss. Seems like memories like to linger at Picacho Peak.
Lasti
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:49am PT
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Sounds like your heart's compass will always point to Picach Pk.
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bob
climber
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:50am PT
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Nice Jefe. Good on you for that one. I got the call the other night from Gma's house. They are all very low. Many times around Prescott involved "Scagglioni." You know, with Todd's passing I have had a very big feeling of relief in one way. Only one. A few years back we had a verbal exchange over the phone about what someone else said he said about me. Total bullshit I know. To make a long story short we both felt shitty and luckily for us made amends around the fire at Grandma's house one night a few weeks after the incident. We shed tears and talked and gave hugs and I know that we both felt much better. Relieved as if a weight had been lifted.
I guess all I'm trying to say as I get worked up here is that I am SO grateful that he and I took care of that. It would be a heavy load to have unresolved with him gone and I honestly think he would feel the same way if the roles were reversed.
There are other situations in my life where I could patch some holes that don't feel very good. Life is short and the passing of Todd is yet another look at how important for me it is to not have ugly things hanging in the air between people who care about each other if I can help it.
Rest in Peace there Todd.
Bob Jensen
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 31, 2012 - 11:33am PT
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Nice trip Jefe, and a first class sendoff for your comrade as he moves on to the next pitches.
All these years of driving past it, I've never stopped either. One day.
Heal well.
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atchafalaya
Boulder climber
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Jan 31, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
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Great TR Jefe. Thanks for the desert inspiration this morning. Beautiful photos and a proud ascent for man and dog. Sorry to hear about the loss of another brother from Prescott. Best,
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 31, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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why didn't you chop the cables on descent?
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
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Very cool....
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MH2
climber
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Jan 31, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
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A TR that has it all and plenty of it too.
He didn't chop because he's an old guy living the past rather than just reading about it.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jan 31, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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Nice TR. I've driven by that thing about a billion times and never have been to the top. Maybe next time I'm in AZ, it looks like a fun outing. I've always wondered about the east face...probably
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sjellison
Mountain climber
Range of Light
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Jan 31, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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Anyone hear of any Car2Car records for Picacho?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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Bonus.
No Italians were butthurt by this ascent.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
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I knew we could rely on you and Rosebud, I just knew. Thanks and v. fun!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 31, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
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Another Gnarly adventure!
Thanks for sharing. Damn! Now I want to hike/climb it. Bet I could come near the record time too.
Car to car: 12 hrs.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jan 31, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
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Way cool, thx
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 31, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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Sweet! Another American Via Ferrata. Didn't know. Now to do it. At least two in AZ.
excellent TR
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Cragar
Trad climber
MSLA - MT
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Jan 31, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
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Nice and yeah I have to add as others have ROSEBUD kiks ass!!
What kind of pooch is she?!
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 31, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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nice, but I'm surprised you didn't chop everything on the way down ? Whats the problem ?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 31, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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I even wore some patchouli to ward off the ghost that was surely waiting for me in the cave. Trust me, it works.
Drl Hippie, that stuff will ward off evrything with olfactory senses, humans included...except the other hippies I guess. Rosebud looks like a seasoned vet, strong work from el perrita negro.
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RoryKuykendall
Mountain climber
California
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Jan 31, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
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Thanks for the TR. I'm sorry for your loss.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
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Here's a photo of Todd(on left) with a couple other DRLs.
Photo Cox collection
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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A most excellent and extremely exciting expression of the essential essence.
Thanks Bro. Jefe!
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Zander
climber
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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Oh Yeah!
Z
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 09:57am PT
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Here's a little something
To light the way
Inside your heart where the darkness stays
I believe the sun still rises here
When it falls
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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nice Jefe, I still have my resin encased scorpion wtih picacho peak written on it, I bought at the gift shop many moons ago. Cheers
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 11:01am PT
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Thanks DMT(everyone else, too), that's what I was aiming for.
That's how I try to approach life(and death).
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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picacho is a favorite destination of the desert peaks section of the l.a. sierra club. they all try to be real mountaineers and may even have a previous CA, although i'll bet with more points of aid.
next time, simply rope, er, leash up. i'll bet you'll get a FFCA without a leader fall or, ah, hang-dogging.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Sorry about your friend.
Rose bud is a kick A$$ looking dog. Way to shred the Gnar!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jefe, this trip report is brilliant on so many levels...funny, insightful, poignant, clever.
Big thumbs up!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Love it.
I' been lookin' at that thing for awhile. Next time I work in Phoenix I'm gonna' do 'er.
Sorry about your friend, he was too young,
Did you see the compressor?
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Brilliantly written post Jefe. I read it a few times. Too many great lines to quote. Great writting
I laughed...
I cried...
..no really..I'm serious
Thanks so much for sharing.
Pet the wee-missus for me.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 10:11am PT
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Thanks skip.
If you can spare an hour or two on a road trip I highly recommend this peak- for a good leg stretcher if nothing else.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Wow.....this was beautiful....thanks for giving me heads up on the TR. loved it!
Susan
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Hey Drljefe-that is a great hike! Thanks for the write-up. Been out to Cochise a couple of times lately and passed by it-wished I had had some extra time to do again. Love the desert this time of year.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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I've done the California Picacho.
Driven by the Arizona one more times than I can recall.
I guess I'll have to stop and do it next time.
Then there's the Mexican Picacho as well.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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I left the route intact, mostly for shipoopie, but also for chubby flatlanders.
Thanks for all the nice comments.
Finding some humor and parody in this hike helped me deal with the slap in the face of losing a bro.
Nothing like a fun adventure with a dog.
Keep on keepin on supertopo.
(!!!/
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2012 - 09:16am PT
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
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Bump, even though the dog couldn't free the damn thing......
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
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Thanks for the write up!
Glad to hear you were in a good place when you got the news of your friend.
Mucci
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 15, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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Glad to see this bumped up again. I was surprised it didn't make Chris' email summary, as it definately represents the best of the Forum.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 15, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
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hadnt seen this before
very cool
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Feb 15, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
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I did this hike on a nice winters day a few years ago with my then girlfriend. It is a fine hike and a rewarding summit. Glad you left it in place as it is enjoyed by many who are not climbers. I plan to do it again with my son and grandson when he gets a little older.
Enjoyed your report.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2012 - 10:42am PT
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Yeah, I bumped it, 'cause I read it again.
I've driven by Picacho probably 10 times since.
Feels much better knowing i've stood on the summit...with my dog, even.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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wait a minute here. there was a guy bouldering with me and dr. F before the gordonfest who identified himself as "jefe". had a red beard, the whole nine yards. i brought up his post about picacho peak, since i've driven past there myself and thought about climbing the thing "because it is there". oh, yea, yea, this guy said. yea, did it with my dog.
then drljefe comes on here the following week and says he never left arizona. we figured out the guy at the gordonfest was a bigtime imposter. he was hustling the top 3 hottest women there based on the real jefe's reputation.
someone needs to straighten this out.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Locker impostors, Jefe impostors... what's the world coming to!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Will the REAL Jefe please stand up?
And your little dog AidBud too!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Great tr. Missed this one first go around. Is there much climbing beside the rote you did?
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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the guy at the gordonfest looked exactly like the guy in that picture ...
but ... he didn't have rosebud with him!
q.e.d.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2012 - 09:55am PT
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For some reason I wanted to read this again this morning,
Guess what?
Six months to the day.
Bump.
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nature
climber
SoSlo, CO
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:28am PT
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did your route get the chop yet?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 10:05am PT
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I'm glad I didn't chop it!
I took my flatlander brother and my nephews up there on New Years Day.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Jan 17, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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Go Rosebud, go!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 17, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
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Obey the Bud dude!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 17, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
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Any means are fair to harness that monster!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jan 17, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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Isn't it great to share these kind of adventures with "the flatlanders"? They get such a thrill out of it and it's so much fun to watch them.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
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bump
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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The dude abides.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Is that barbed wire on that via rustado?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Oct 12, 2014 - 08:41pm PT
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Does this count as the first Via Ferrata in the US?
:-0
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Oct 12, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
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Cool thread! Thanks for sharing your experiences with this cool peak.
I remember hiking it on a really cold and overcast morning in the early 90s. The clouds were so low that I felt that I could reach up and touch them from the summit...
Cheers!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2016 - 01:01pm PT
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Anniversary bump
And a RIP for my friend Todd
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jan 28, 2016 - 02:25pm PT
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Fanstastic little adventure. Fun writing and great photos. Really enjoyed the ride. My condolences on your loss.
Scott
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Jan 28, 2016 - 02:30pm PT
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Nice Via Furr-ata there!
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