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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 17, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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Just seen this come up on Alpinist's facebook news feed:
"Colin Haley: Although Jorge and I unfortunately fluffed this weather window, today we got to watch history being made through a Canon G12 zoom lens at Norwegos: Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk made the first fair-means ascent of the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre. Although I'm not 100% sure about the details, I think they took about 13 hours to the summit from a bivy at the shoulder, which is amazingly fast considering the terrain. The speed with which they navigated virgin ground on the upper headwall is certainly testament to Hayden's great skills on rock. Bravo! They might be in the mountains several more days (more good weather coming), but I'm sure we'll hear the details soon!"
Congratulations gentlemen!
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Jan 17, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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I would not neccesarily presume that by "fair means" Colin means "free". Sounds like he's implying they avoided the bolt ladders though not neccesarily all the bolts on new terrain. Regardless, badass.
It'll be interesting to see if this reignites the whole chop the compressor route debate.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 17, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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Way to go!
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 17, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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Outstanding ascent by the two of the worlds best alpinists !!
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 17, 2012 - 01:06am PT
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Fantastic ascent! Congrats.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jan 17, 2012 - 01:20am PT
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A case of the finest Quilmes and some dulce de leche for the lads! That is just so incredibly cool!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jan 17, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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"Fair-means" has quite a different connotation on Cerro Torre, and I suspect when the full story comes out, it will be more intriguing than the thread title implies. It sounds like a significant and distinct climb.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jan 17, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Don't know what is meant by "fair means", but if it was a goal of those two lads I'm sure it's a stylish, gleaming, polished gem. Can't wait for the details.
-JelloBowsDown
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Conrad
climber
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Jan 17, 2012 - 07:57am PT
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From one generation to the next, the sport keeps moving. Congratulations and respect.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 17, 2012 - 09:14am PT
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I'm as curious as jello.
Tell us more,..
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Jan 17, 2012 - 09:29am PT
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Really impressive. Congrats guys!! I likewise can't wait to hear the story. Kruk's account of their last attempt is great, and Kennedy had a post up on his blog about it too, although his blog has mysteriously been deleted.
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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
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More News!
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-compressor-kennedy-kruk-flash
"With continued good weather in the forecast, the duo may stay in the mountains, postponing their celebrations in favor of more climbing."
Completely free or not, sounds like they climbed one of the most notorious and legendary lines on earth in great traditional style, ground up in a day. WOW!! And there still gonna climb more, with SA girls and Beunos Aires beaches right next door...
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 17, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
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Who says the Golden Age is over?
Well done, lads, congratulations!
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Jan 17, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
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Gosh. I hope David Lama doesn't feel "scooped".
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jan 17, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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That apple fell pretty close to the tree, now it's getting pretty damn big!
Young alpinists getting it done, way impressive! (I wonder if they did the sit start?)
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jsavage
climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 17, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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Excellent feat!
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michaelj
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 17, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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The next generation will never sleep on the Torre.
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Barbarian
Trad climber
On the Injured Reserve list
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Jan 17, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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Every age is a Golden Age for someone!
Congrats on a great send!
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Stefan Jacobsen
Trad climber
Danmark
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Jan 17, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
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Humble I bow myself in the dust and cheerful I throw my hat in the air.
Kruk and Kennedy kick ass!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 17, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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Great send!
"By fair means" sounds sporting, whatever it is. Does this knott usually mean no bolts?
Did they climb some new rock, too?
Congrats, lads!
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Brian
climber
California
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Jan 17, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
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Cool. Can't wait for more news on this.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Jan 17, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
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Can't wait to hear more on the "fair-means" ascent! Great job dudes!
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Jan 17, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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Don't know what is meant by "fair means",
It means that they didn't use any supplemental bottled oxygen.
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moacman
Trad climber
Montana
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Jan 17, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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Fantastic job guys...Good on ya........
Stevo
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Gene
climber
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Jan 17, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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I know it's bitchen and such, but what did they do?
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Jan 17, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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Presumably they free climbed Cerro Torre without rap bolting it (and without using any of the David Lama's bolts). Based on Kruk's blog, that's what they attempted to do last year, and nearly succeeded before the weather shifted and encrusted the top of the peak in ice. I guess all we know at this point is that they made the summit, but details will no doubt be forthcoming on Kruk's blog.
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Gene
climber
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Jan 17, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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From that blog...
I continued to lead the next day. At the ice towers Chris was getting frustrated being the pack mule on the jumars so he took over the leading. David Lama was on the Torre aid climbing up the bolts so we were being buzzed all day long by a helicopter film crew. Truly frustrating. It grew dark and we ended up climbing through the night on the headwall, very exciting. We followed the wrong feature out left and eventually dead-ended after Geisler led an 8-hour pitch of techno aid, taking one whipper when the flake he was hooking on ripped. Geisler did a lot of climbing when you were the most rad if you did the hard aid stuff. He did early repeats of El Cap terrors and established and repeated the most serious of the Squamish bigwalls.
Seems aid was involved during last year's attempt, hence the desire to get details on what 'fair means' means. Whatever they did is probably beyond my imagination.
Cheers,
g
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 17, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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If yopu look at what is posted on the alpinist site it says nothing about free. seems to indicate that it was without useing the compressor bolts?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 17, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
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Congratulations to Jason and Hayden! And to think that I knew Jason when he was a gym rat...
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michaeld
Sport climber
Near Tahoe, CA
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Jan 17, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
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I'm gonna go up there with 250 bolts for my video crew and get the next ascent.
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Jan 17, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
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Nice
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 17, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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sick!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 17, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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Badazzzzzzzz!!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 18, 2012 - 09:48am PT
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Cool. Gold never tarnishes; new kids just melt old icons and recast to their own eyes.
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nopantsben
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
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this thread has much wrong information/silly assumptions it's unbelievable. the thread title is wrong and the thread should be deleted and then reposted with a correct thread title.
this has nothing to do with david lama.
great achievement nevertheless.
hayden is by far the most psyched climber i know. kind of like adam ondra for bigger stones.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 18, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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this thread has much wrong information/silly assumptions
What'cha think this is, the New York Times?
Sounds like a fantastic climb, done in great style. Hats off to Kruk and Kennedy.
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Snorky
Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
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Jan 18, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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I think the phrase "free the Compressor Route" will take on additional meaning as this story unfolds. Don't think of free as in "free climbing", but think of something bigger, bolder, and better. Envision the Decompressor Route.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
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i say Julie and Michael did a good job too!
not that either would take credit, The Summit is Hayden's but the kid is the Kennedy's!
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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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This thread should be deleted? lol
After people have congratulated these two fine men and there hard work...
Who knows what the exact details are, they are somewhat irrelevant.
Whats big is that they got up the route from bottom to top in impeccable fast style which directly contrasts the style of ascent the route was put up in.
Is anything really free?
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Gene
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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I get a kick out of the disclaimer on the Alpinist.com site.
Full Disclosure: Hayden Kennedy is the son of Alpinist's Editor-in-Chief Michael Kennedy. —Ed
g
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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Why is it so hard to clarify whether it was free climbed, or some aid was used.
Did I miss something?
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Gene
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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My understanding is that they climbed the a line close to and maybe partially on the Maestri Compressor route - as far as that goes - without using any of Maestri's 450 bolts.
Based on the info about the attempt last year, I guess that the climb did not go free.
Kruk and Canadian Chris Geisler came very close last February, when they climbed to within 40 meters of the top of the headwall without using Maestri's bolts, with a mix of free and aid climbing.
The significance is that this is the first ascent of one of the most stunning lines on planet Earth without using bolts placed by that gas powered drill machine.
g
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
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I think this is a fabulous accomplishment, and I'm pleased as punch, but in all of this euphoria can we get some love for the emotional quandry of the lovely Julie Kennedy... not only did she have to weather the outrageously high-intensity, long duration, world class alpine career of her husband Michael, but now she has to keep the hatches battened down while her son goes hard in the big mountains.
Julie, you have my most profound sympathies. I think YOU should get the Piolet d'Or this is likely going to earn...
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Gene
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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Greg,
Is my post just before yours correct?
Thanks,
g
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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Gene, without hearing the details from Hayden and Jason, I'd think so... and yes, it's an amazing, world class feature.
I'd also expect that Rolando Garibotti will launch a campaign to remove the bolts from the Maestri Route... about which I'd have mixed feelings: I could see where Rolo would (theoretically, of course) be coming from, but I think I might find myself of the opinion that the damage was done long, long ago. And it's one of the best stories in the whole history of climbing, this sport being such an amazing theater of character.
I'd have to think on all of it before fully forming an opinion.
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
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Much respect to Kennedy and Kruk!It is mind blowing of an achievement.I am anxious to hear about the attack right before and toping out over the summit snow mushroom.
On another note,It's disconcerning hearing about the helicopters over them as they were making their ascent.
David Lamma and his helicopters are pathetic,disturbing and polluters.
Lammas style is just as pathetic as Maestri's if not worse.Mierda style.
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Cor
climber
Colorado
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Jan 18, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
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Good job fellas!
Put that in yer pipe n smoke it Lama!
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Michael Kennedy
Social climber
Carbondale, Colorado
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Jan 18, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
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It should be noted that none of us have heard directly from the youth brigade. They are probably still out there climbing since the weather is good.
Colin's original Facebook post, based on his firsthand observation, is indeed exciting news, and his knowledge of the area lends this initial report a certain credibility. Everything else is pure speculation.
I certainly hope Hayden and Jason freed the Compressor Route in the larger sense but for now we all might want to take a deep breath and calm down. I'll be psyched to hear the full story. No matter what the specifics, I'm sure the climb was an incredible and beautiful adventure, and I have no doubt that those two will tell the tale with grace and humility.
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david albert
Trad climber
argentina
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Jan 21, 2012 - 10:52am PT
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The pair of selfish climbers destroy the Compressor upper part of the route in the descent, exept the belays to return home, of course. Coward actitud and a total lack of ethics.
For the comunity of climbers that live in El Chaltén that act was stupid and unnecesary,absolutelly no respect for the way of thinking of the others.
A dictatorial behaviour in hands of very young people.
And by the way, is to free a route to climb some sections in A2?
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PeteC
climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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Grace and humility?
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david albert
Trad climber
argentina
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Jan 21, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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Cragman I live in El Chaltén and i am just returning from the police station where i was taking pictures of the 102 bolt the two stars still had in his bags one day ago. The rest where shared with some acolits of the new inquisitors of the mountains. Regards.
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New Age II
climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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The two boys have not done all for free ..... plus they burned a piece of history that way .....
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david albert
Trad climber
argentina
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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Cool photo of the bolt cleanup.
It looks like they came out pretty cleanly.
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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
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No the route was not freed, it was climbed at 5.11 A2 as noted above and in other threads.
Some people see their climb as a clean up of Cerro Torre. The Compressor route has finally been relieved, and the wall stands naturally and fairly presented to future alpinists.
Others view it as the slaying of a historical and classical route which has had a peculiar yet particular part in the history of 20th century alpinism.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Jan 21, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
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HAHA! what a photograph.
Look closely at that photo and note that there are numerous rings with pegs left behind. (top-right in particular)
How long before those things start generating commerce on eBay?
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
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It is just me or does it seem like they climbed a NEW route or a VARIATION, then took a different route down and chopped it?
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jan 21, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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The amazing things about those bolts--I think they were made by Cassin--is how bomber they are, after 40 years. They don't seem to rust, and I suspect if pull tested would still be worthy of typical moderate fall factor lead falls. They are actually a small tapered piton, semi-soft so the tapered bit really conforms to the hole. When I climbed Cerro Torre, I was really amazed at how consistently solid they all were--there were none that seemed to have become sketchy with time.
In contrast, the construction bolts put in by most modern climbers will be pretty ratty after 30 years, and the bazillions placed since sport climbing became commonplace will all need replacement.
Curious thing, as to those old bolts...
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ALPINEMAN
Trad climber
bogota
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Jan 21, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
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congratulations for the other bolts in SE ridge (on the variant, but the same history)
sh#t
and congratulations for 100 new hold for the future free ascent
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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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^
Yea and if you slip once, your finger is gonna stay up there, sounds intriguing.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 21, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
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This image
is such an improvement over this image
that it could only be improved if that were a garbage collector instead of a cop.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
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Do you have a problem with the bolts or the tat strung between them? Maestri put in the bolts, but is that his tat or tat left by other climbers? I guess you could argue that the bolts allow the tat to be there, but that might be a stretch.
And about tat...a couple of years ago Clint and I removed a whole bunch of tat(two old, rotting fixed ropes and a bunch of slings) from the East Ledges route on El Capitan that had been used by climbers to get to the top of El Capitan quickly so they could work the upper pitches of the Salathe Wall(or so I was told). Should we remove the fixed protection on the East Ledges route because it allowed the tat to be there?
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david albert
Trad climber
argentina
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Jan 29, 2012 - 09:51am PT
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 29, 2012 - 10:06am PT
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Like many, I have a bunch of conflicting feelings, thoughts and emotions. At the end of the day, the anger and charges of people like David Albert above, which is that these guys took it on themselves to do something which most climbers disagree with, will remain like a dark cloud instead of it being a sunny day like one would expect from a ascent like this. I'm sure this will be talked to death till we all grow old...how they selectively used "some" bolts but removed others. How they chose to destroy a classic route which was put up in bad style....blah blah blah. Maybe having a few bolts is good, but more than that is bad....hard to say, but they said it via their actions and don't give a f*#king rats ass what any of you think to the contrary.... anyway, congrats to the kids on getting up one of the most badassed places on the planet and using less bolts to do it.
I suppose.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 29, 2012 - 11:08am PT
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Somebody ought to post Teddy Roosevelt's "in the arena" speech from a century ago.
This is going to be the subject of endless debate, but will serve as a pivot point upon which future climbers will formulate and crystalize their own personal climbing philosophies.
I, for one, see both sides, however it is the contradiction between plan and spontaneity that troubles me most.
At the end of the day you have a vicious fang of granite thrusting over a kilometer into the sky of Patafukinggonia that climbers have come from far and wide to throw themselves against. From Bonatti to Bridwell, from Ferrari to Rolo, the best and the bravest have been drawn to this lodestone.
Cerro Torre is so iconic that, arguably, the unattained summit has driven one of the great Italian climbers to a sort of madness.
Be that as it may, the Torre endures, and shrugs off these controversies like just another collapsed cornice in the wind off the icecap...
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 29, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
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Great and Great.
All these pathetic whiners who are so butt hurt that now they would have to actually climb Cerro Torre should go get short roped up the Big E so they can still have empty bragging rights.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 18, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
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I love the Sun's translation of Cerro Torre - 'Tower Hill'! LOL!
Mighty, sounds like K&K are lucky that Baltasar Garzon is off his bench, eh?
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MH2
climber
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Feb 18, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
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Thanks for the warning, Anders. Better skip the show tonight. Sounds bad to be near the centre of an international storm.
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Trad climber
Oak Land, California
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Feb 20, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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Wow, bad a$$!
As for the controversy... I'm not in a league to judge. But I will enjoy the debate.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 20, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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i don't really give a sh#t one way nor the other, but "...Free the Compressor Route..." ??/??!
i'm sure this has already been discussed...but...it's worth repeating since we will have to see this & the other thread for the next 30-40 years along with dicktor.f.'s atheism(religion he espouses)thread on the front page of this site. so maybe shud bring it up once every cuppa moons, eh!!
the point i'm making is: tharz uh big dif between freein' a root and puttin' up a variation to one...eh?
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Teddy TT
Mountain climber
Shizuoka
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Jul 13, 2014 - 02:55am PT
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I like Mr. Haiden Kennedy. I want him to do the North face and North ridge of Latok I, Pakistan, by fair means, the mountain Father Mr Kenndey bailed in 1988. The north formations of the mountain repelled more than 30 parties of would-renowned climbers.
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