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| Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic |
e9climbing.blogspot.com
Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 11, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
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Just super cool and super inspiring to read this story from the Ukraine/Russina girls who established a new route on Trango. For sure some fly under the radar that said they deserve no less credit!
http://russianclimb.com/trango_girls.html
I lift my hat!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 11, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
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Awesome achievement! I just threw my hat in the air.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 11, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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Wow!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Dec 11, 2011 - 12:42pm PT
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Three HOT climbing chicks
Well done ladies on one of the biggest baddest walls on the planet.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 11, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
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RC: How much down gear did you have on the wall?
Girls: We had one down jacket. One down vest. And one down blanket for all three of us. But it was hard in 10-days bad weather upper than 5500 m... no visibility, no sun, depressive mood...
RC: How much cognac did you have?
Girls: Pity, but we took few: and drank during first 2 weeks...
RC: Did you have cosmetics with you on the route?
Girls: We had one cosmetics kit for all of us. - 5 kg :) - creams, masks, etc.
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!! Proud ascent, like two El Caps stacked on top of each other. Looks like horrific slabby hauling up the first bastion.
Next time, girls - bring more down and cognac, and maybe less cosmetics.
If you ever want to try a warm wall, come to Yosemite and we'll talk.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 11, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
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VI+, 7b, б3
Someone wanna translate this?
VI+ = a long time
7b = 5.14?
63 = ?
Thanks
Prod.
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e9climbing.blogspot.com
Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
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VI+ is over all serious grading
7b should be about 5.12B
the last thing might be a Russian thing and I think it is wrong it should be 6B, not 63, 6b is a form of Russian Big Wall grade
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 11, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
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Thanks,
Did they free or is the 63/ 6b an aid rating? If what does that translate to?
Prod.
PS. Awesome TR to the girls!
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pc
climber
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Dec 11, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Great! Kick Azz.
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e9climbing.blogspot.com
Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
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I'm not that familiar with the russian grading for big walls. But I guess it was free at 7b as no Aid grade was given.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Dec 11, 2011 - 02:20pm PT
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looks like a lot of water to be found on that thing, otherwise how the hell do you haul 38 days of water? food? i once read that after 30 plus days on a wall a dude was covered with body cheese, how awful for girls who have different "hardware". gawd damn, 38 days?!?!
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 11, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
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Who cares what ever the rating is
They're tough and climbed that monster.
Yikes !!!! is that thing big and gnarly ......
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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Dec 11, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
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This is so inspiring - Always wanted to climb there - must remember to bring my makeup.
steve
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e9climbing.blogspot.com
Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2011 - 02:51pm PT
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Its an outstanding feat no matter what the grade is. Just to se other teams come and go must be so hard on the brain. You need lots of will and power to hang in there.
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go-B
climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Dec 11, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
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Awesome, high altitude dancing with the stars, Marina Kopteva, Anna Yasinskaya, and Galina Chibitok, doing Da Tango with Da Trango!
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Dec 11, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
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Amazing!
That looks like a class A route by a hardcore team.
Look what you can do if you aren't spending every moment on Supertopo...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 11, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
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Look what you can do if you aren't spending every moment on Supertopo... best quote ever
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Nohea
Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
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Dec 11, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
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That is some adventure! Mahalo for posting up that would be MFPU!
Aloha,
will
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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Dec 11, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
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Real big wall climbing...
Valley bums take notice...
The big wall universe is not just Yosemite there are lots of places to big wall climb...
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Dec 11, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
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Excellent TR - thanks for sharing this. Cool climb.
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MH2
climber
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Dec 11, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
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Thanks for this and the other, e9 Euro-trashguy! Feels like you've blown a few cobwebs off the old place.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Dec 11, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
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Awesome job, the real deal!!!!!
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Dec 11, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
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Love this post, hardcore Russian women take their place in climbing history. Yowza!
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john hansen
climber
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Dec 11, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
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What.. Nohea.. you make one new word.. MFPU..
Aloha
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Dec 11, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
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Great TR-that's a huge endeavor, nice job ladies!
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Double D
climber
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Dec 11, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
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Now that's impressive boys and girls.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 12, 2011 - 02:50am PT
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I take the cosmetics comment to be a joke? No
I guess I'm slow
Nice show. Almost on a par with Lynn's ascent of the nose IMHO. Standard breaking.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 12, 2011 - 04:21am PT
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Love the massive exfoliation to the right of camp 7.
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Dec 12, 2011 - 10:59am PT
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Jesus that was a sketchy jump.
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e9climbing.blogspot.com
Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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I think some French or Russin jumped it with a wingsuite but not sure.
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Jim Clipper
Social climber
forests to tree farms
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Dec 12, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
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Money can't buy that look, that style in the 6th picture.
Russian business women bump!
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Aerili
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 13, 2011 - 12:10am PT
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This was an awesome link; thanks! These women are amazing.
Valley bums take notice...
The big wall universe is not just Yosemite there are lots of places to big wall climb... For sure! I was certainly thinking that when I saw some of those pics. Just makes El Cap look...way less formidable.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Dec 13, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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Way out there. What an achievement.
40+ pitches, at altitude in full conditions, drinking Listerine to boot.
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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Dec 13, 2011 - 01:18am PT
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Found the video of the Russians climbing the North Face of the Jannu these guys (and gals) are super hard core.
http://vimeo.com/12483150
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e9climbing.blogspot.com
Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
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Wow that link is just unreal!!!!
My bet they will get a Piolet dO'r nomination for this one at least I hope they do!
More info and beta/in russian/.Pictures as well.Impressive,http://www.risk.ru/users/robinsya/18677/
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 13, 2011 - 02:10pm PT
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Boy, er, I mean, girl, that weren't no kolbasa roast now was it?
BAD YAGODITSI! (to use the polite version)
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Dec 13, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
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wow, how I wish I wasn't at work right now...sigh.
but TRs like this one make it a lil' more bearable.
props!
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skywalker
climber
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Dec 13, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
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Bump!!! Been watchin' it pop up and its a super cool achievement!
Cheers!
S...
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bkalaska
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 20, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Those are some bad ass women! Too bad they are promoting themselves / being promoted as girls.
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noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
bishop, ca
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Dec 20, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
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Quite an accomplishment! Thanks for sharing.
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Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
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Dec 20, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
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Way Burly.
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Stefan Jacobsen
Trad climber
Danmark
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Dec 20, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
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According to the russian text the grade is: 6B (VI +, 7b, A3).
I think the 63 was a typing error.
Google does a great job translating from russian.
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chiindi
Big Wall climber
Lakeview, OR
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Dec 20, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
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Lotta Estrogen at work!
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vlani
Trad climber
mountain view, ca
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Dec 20, 2011 - 03:15pm PT
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As the grades go:
(VI+, 7b, б3), or 6B Russian grade -
VI+ - must be UIAA rating, pretty meaningless. Means something like 5.8 or harder.
7b - french free-climbing grade, 5.12c-d, and this might be a wild guess on their side, or so I think. From what I read none in the team can free climb that hard, forget alpine conditions.
б3(first character is cyrilic 'b') - it was A3, a typo. May or may not be true, Russians interpret A grades somewhat differently.
6B Russian grade - means it was at least as hard as, say, Half Dome regular route. 6B is a super-grade, everything harder than certain level gets that label.
Given the speed of accent it was probably 95% aid.
Most amazing thing to me is what they had originally planned and committed to spend more that a months on the wall.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Dec 20, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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Rad!
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rodermck
Social climber
san jose ca.
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Dec 20, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
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soooooooo!!.. baaaaaad!!..ass!!!.. congradulations !!!..
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 20, 2011 - 11:51pm PT
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bump for tuff girls!
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 27, 2011 - 02:34am PT
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I guess that this means man yoga is for pussies
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 21, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
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great video !
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Dec 31, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
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holy shit!!!!
That mountain is mega!!!
nice send… big send
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Dec 31, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
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Many everything up to camp 3 looks like avalanche country
Dunno, doesn't look like the smartest line. Look at camp 2!!!!!!!!!
But the line above camp 3 is SWEET
And the snowy weather in their climbing photos is significantly different from the sunny weather photo shown on the topo!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 31, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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Super job!
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Leggs
Sport climber
Home away from Home
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Amazing!
That looks like a class A route by a hardcore team.
Look what you can do if you aren't spending every moment on Supertopo...
{yep.}
Bump.
:)
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Any of them single?
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