Discussion Topic |
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 10, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
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tis the season, and some things are starting to look climbable, thought you hardcore guys like vitaliy would want to see this.
the strand is getting fatter every day, still has a hole in it where theres running water, and the first pitch is a little thin, but crux ice pitch looks thick enough. it probably is climbable but not protectable. ive seen it be alot better for leading, might be good in about a week???. artist bowl is looking thin. widows tears is not even close to having enough there
i have a bit of carpentry work to do up in foresta off and on this next month, so ill try to take pics every week when i drive by
also when reading the tahoe ice thread a guy was asking about easy to get to ice to play on in yosemite. we used to go up near nevada falls, not the mist trail but i think its the john muir trail, and right before the top of nevada falls, theres alot of ice on the trail itself, with t.r.ing below the wall (100+ feet?) and leading/bouldering on a blast cut above the trail, this is like 12' vert and then slab ice for 50'? all fairly mellow and a great spot to play for a few hours, with incredible views
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 11, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
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mctwisted - Thanks for posting these pics and condition report!
If you snapped any current/recent pics of the Widows Tears and Sentinel, it would be nice to see them, too.
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gimmeslack
Trad climber
VA
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Dec 11, 2011 - 05:51pm PT
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That was me looking for noob ice beta... Thanks for the tip!
... wife and I met Sue last year while staying in one of the cabins. Didn't connect the names to the faces! Might have been stoopit enough to say we'd been climbing (you know, like some gnarly 7's?...).
<sheepish grin>
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 11, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
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mctwisted - thanks for the WTears pic, too!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 11, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
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That would be really cool to ice climb in YNP.
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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Dec 12, 2011 - 12:50am PT
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Great pics! Sentinel Falls looked really awesome yesterday, thinking about going to check it out....
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 12, 2011 - 01:29am PT
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Yes, I was there too. Looking at it. And climbing warm rock : )
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
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holly's right. upper sentinel falls looks pretty good, thats the section above the unconnected fang, (the fang i believe only had one ascent when walt and fosberg went up and did the whole enchilada from the ground (pretty sick stuff)
that upper sent. is i think 4 pitches of fun wi3, and stays good for awhile(stable)
where the strand and widows tears will fall off with a warm spell,sent. stays good
two ways to approach, now with the lack of snow, the four mile trail is the way to go, or if it snows a bit climbers can ski/snowshoe from badger, actually now if the road was open to badger you could ride your bike out there with the lack of snow (on the glacier point road)? but i bet its closed to the bottom till the ski area gets up to speed
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 17, 2011 - 03:32am PT
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Thanks for the pics and conditions comments, mctwisted.
Scoped out ice conditions with binoculars on Wednesday (12/14/11).
Despite our wishful thinking, the Widow's Tears, Silver Strand, and Artist Bowl ice (also called Octopussy?) still appeared too thin. Developing, but not there, yet. We went with our fall-back plan (as expected) to climb warm rock in the sun on Wednesday and Upper Sentinel Falls ice on Thursday.
Temp info is available on sites like this: http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/queryF?YYV
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Dec 17, 2011 - 09:59am PT
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Nice
Hope it stays
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2011 - 11:53am PT
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good job BMcC
yeh every ice climb ive ever done here has been wet, just part of the west side ice program, i remember on the crux pitch of upper sentinal putting in my tool and punching a hole that immediately started covering me with water like a hose on full blast
19 degrees here in e.p. so ice is still building
i bet it was nice not having to trudge around in 3' of snow up top to get to the base of the route
thanks for the pics, that is very inspiring,
if anyone is thinking of doing any ice in yosemite please let me know so i can take some pics from down below, thanks
dan
p.s. glacier point road open, which saves many hours of hiking to get in position to do upper sentinal falls
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Dec 17, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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Wow. Those Valley ice climbs could be the ultimates if they would only freeze up. Tempted to make the poor choice and buy a plane ticket as I have two weeks of vacation right now.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Dec 17, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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Either way you win dude, I'd buy the ticket. Worst case you spend the afternoon drooling over them from Little Wing.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 17, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
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If we could only get a nice string of days with colder daytime temps...
Nice views from up there:
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
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thanks for the great photos !!!
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
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ok kevin, let me see what i can dig up
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
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yeh kevin, the bonus for me would be walking down without having snow up to the armpits and wallowing for miles like the last couple times!!!:)
were getting the fairly low temps at night, but its shorts weather at the cookie during the day, so i know its pretty wet up there. im crossing my fingers for colder temps. seems like everything ive climbed here is wet though, till it gets dark and then of coarse we still have climbing to do and the ropes all freeze up to 15mm, and you cant use the belay devise. good thing we were taught the body belay! sometimes i wonder if these things should be best climbed at night when its cold and dry???
kev got any fa shots of widows you can share?
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
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here's a couple old shots of when peter and i climbed s.s. long ago, to keep the psych going
pretty fat, and i dig the funky sap color
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 20, 2011 - 12:29am PT
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Dreaming....
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Dec 20, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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Holy $hit that is FAT!!!
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 12:39am PT
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brian, that not the first time ive been called a dreamer. its gonna happen man ???
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 20, 2011 - 01:44am PT
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Hi Dan-
Dreaming... above, refers to my thoughts of climbing some of these climbs...
Great shots you have captured posted here!
Hoping to get on some of that soon. Are you looking for partners?
Cheers, Brian
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 20, 2011 - 10:49am PT
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Bump for ice!
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 20, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
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Dito Bump...
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 20, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
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Nice Walleye, thickly veiled indeed...
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 20, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
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Warbler, much respect to you for your ascent of that badboy back in the day, it ranks very high in the history of Yosemite climbing in my opinion.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 20, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
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What fosburg said.
Warroll is bad to the bone.
You'd never catch me up there, I'll instantly turn into a popsicle .....
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
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hey thanks for the great shots!
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JMC
climber
the swamp
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
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Really cool - some rarely seen/climbed formations there.
Was it 1995 that was the monster year on the eastside? (Bridgeport flooded out). 2-3 pitches formed on the N. side of Lee Vining, Leversee and Andy Selters (though maybe not together) got on that thing. There was all kinds of ice madness down in Whitney Portal too, good times.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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yeh, i remember leversee's voice whenever he talked about that thing, sounded real serious like, and in total awe, wason might have been there with him too. i look up there every summer when im cragging in that amphitheater, and try to imagine what it would look like, but its so overhanging and with the roofs its hard to picture (might be something like that wicked yabo tooth). wouldnt it be cool if someone had a shot of that thing (with those guys on it)???
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Happy Boulders
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Dec 21, 2011 - 01:25am PT
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Dan, I think that's the same guys on that Drug Dome route. been there all day
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McKenzie Long
climber
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Dec 21, 2011 - 01:38am PT
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Hey that is me belaying in the red jacket on Drug Dome! Crazy! And we were the second party, not on there all day.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Dec 21, 2011 - 01:41am PT
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Tell us! How did it go?
Dan, did Walt have a go at Illilouette?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 21, 2011 - 02:16am PT
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mctwisted is everywhere....watching.
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 21, 2011 - 09:47am PT
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Walt and I climbed Illilouette Falls around 90/91. Sorry, no pictures.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:55am PT
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dan, on that ice you're talking about on the north side of lee vining canyon, i remember andy telling me that was a crazy formation with lots of overhanging chandelier ice. either he or his partner took a pretty big fall as i recall. i'll email andy and see if we can get a report.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 21, 2011 - 11:26am PT
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Is that what people refer to as candlestick? or something..
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
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heres a few shots from today, pretty sure drug dome had 5 parties climb it today! (and greg you did have the correct beta with the raps being on crystal meth) widows tears is liking this weather and getting thicker, artist bowl looks in, and the strand is hanging in and getting thicker
after googling widows tears to try to find a shot of mark chapman and kevin worrall on the fa, i stumbled across shots of nidivers crew up there doing some wild looking mixed climbing to get up to the fat ice, pretty sick looking stuff the mixed climbers are doing nowadays! makes me rethink if something might be climbable or not
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Dec 21, 2011 - 08:32pm PT
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Fosburg
So.... tell us a Water Ice and Walt story about it!
Hasn't seen many attempts?
Have you had a look up there Dan?
Cool coverage of the phenomenon - Thanks!
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 08:50am PT
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15 degrees here in e.p. at 2000' this morning!
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YosemiteSteve
Trad climber
CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 09:45am PT
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35º in Yosemite Valley at 6:30 a.m. this morning, the warmest morning in weeks. I'm under Yosemite Falls, and there are some strange Pohono winds blowing, too, which can make it warmer.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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skating on stilts
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YosemiteSteve
Trad climber
CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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42º at 8:30 in Yosemite Valley, very breezy & strangely warm.
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 22, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
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Illilouette Falls is one of the most beautiful ice climbs I've ever seen, a stunning shade of blue. I really wish we'd taken a camera up there. I doubt it gets climbed much because aside from the usual problems with Valley ice, it's very hard to scope from any convenient locations.
Walt and I had been on somewhat of a roll ice climbing in Yosemite. We bagged the probable first ascent of Sentinel Falls and the super-unlikely Nevada Falls over the course of a few winters around 1990. We'd heard rumors Jay Smith was chomping at the bit to do Illilouette Falls and it was a route we'd talked about doing. Walt kind of loved it I think when he could imagine someone else gunning for the exact thing he wanted to do.
We walked up there during a particularly cold spell to have a look but also with all our gear just in case it was in. You almost have to get all the way to the base of that thing before you can even see it. We passed several promising lines on the right on the way up Tenaya Canyon. When we got to the base we were blown away because it was fully formed.
It was warm though, probably right around freezing and it kind of gave me the creeps because it's so big and such a high-flow route. The first pitch was totally running with water. I remember Walt saying something to the effect of, "This things gonna come down any minute, we gotta get on it!". He was right about the first but maybe not the second.
I remember a little discussion about what probably was going to be the second pitch and crux. Walt had lead the Yabo Tooth (although hanging to put in screws) on Sentinel Falls, and the crux of Nevada Falls so I felt strongly that I wanted the crux on this one just to keep it fair. He agreed willingly.
The route wound up being 3 pitches and not too hard technically, probably 4+/5 but very memorable for the beauty and remoteness of the location and as with all Valley ice climbs, the utter unlikeliness of it all.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 22, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
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fos, that's really cool. I hope to have the good fortune to swing tools in Yosemite Valley one day
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
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thanks Kevin for the story, every time i look up here i think of you guys
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
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victor, tell matt i send him some pics soon, this is him right?
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
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these shots look much better zoomed in just a tad, good resolution
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
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artist bowl looks in, white fang is in, and upper sentinal falls is in, the yabo tooth looks good??? lets just hope the weather guys are wrong and its not going to warm up like they are saying
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Wedberg
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
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Had a great time climbing this formation near Stately Pleasure Dome today. This has been a great season for ice so far!
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
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Wedberg - Excellent! Looks steep. How many pitches?
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Wedberg
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Dec 23, 2011 - 12:00am PT
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Wedberg - Excellent! Looks steep. How many pitches? Thanks, it was fun. It'll go with two 30m+ pitches with the transition happening at the big obvious ledge. My partner was nice enough to let me have the whole thing and I did the climb to just above the steepest section on the face in one pitch with a 70m rope. The photo I shared above was taken from the road. Here's the photo again for reference:
The lower area of the climb is difficult to see but actually has some difficult and delicate climbing on a couple of thin pillars. The large boulders are obscuring the view.
The main face visible in the photo is steep and thin. It took delicate placements and carefully placed 10cm screws (with screamers attached!).
I'm uploading to my photo gallery site photos that my partner and I took. They should all be up by tomorrow morning and I can post a link to them. In the meantime here are a couple more photos of the climb:
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 23, 2011 - 01:41am PT
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Wedberg - Nice pics.
When I looked at that ice on Tuesday-Dec20 in the afternoon, the wind was blowing and the air temp was pushing 40. The ice looked like it had seen a lot of sun and seemed pretty thin on the steep headwall.
Well done and congratulations!
Bill
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Wedberg
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Dec 23, 2011 - 10:23am PT
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Thanks Bill,
The route gets morning sun at around 8-ish. The 22nd was definitely more windy than the 19th when Trevor and I climbed Drug Dome. The wind stayed with us for the entire time we were on the route. The air temperature remained cold and the ice never showed signs of water dripping. The sun leaves the route by early afternoon.
The photo galleries are almost done uploading now as I type this. You can view the rest of the photos here:
Tuolumne Ice December 22, 2011, Kurt Wedberg's Photos
Tuolumne Ice December 22, 2011, Trevor Anthes's Photos
Thanks again Bill. Perhaps I'll see you out there one of these days!!
Kurt
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 11:23am PT
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good job wedburg, nice
18 degrees here in e.p.
i've been helf expecting someone to be on silver strand the last couple days, maybe today???
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Wedberg
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Dec 23, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
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good job wedberg, nice Thanks man... it was a fun climb. Thanks for all your pics of these various formations that are in right now.
Trevor is having trouble finding the history of this route we just climbed. Do you or anybody else out there know anything? Who did the FA? What year? Any cool stories about it?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Dec 23, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
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Posting from LatteDa in Lee Vining. Just came over from the Valley. South rim of the Valley, all waterfalls are formed up as u can see from pics above. Ice skating on Tenaya lake on 6" of ice. Good ice in Lee Vining Cyn. Several parties climbing. Yours truly testing out the new Black Prophet tools I got from TYeary on the left side falls below the dam. Easy access right now. Pictures to follow when I get home n unload the camera.
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JamesG
Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Dec 23, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
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Man, I need to get out on some of this ice, anyone up for 1-2-12? I've done mostly snow slogs so steep ice will be new for me.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
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cooler the last couple days, so everything is building fatter!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Dec 23, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
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E and I did the upper Sentinal falls this morning. It was 3 fun pitches probably 600' worth of blue ice. First pitch WI4 second WI3 and the third a 2. A little wet but not to bad. We were hoping for a bigger prize like the Strand but we didn't feel like it was quite ready. We bagged the Drug Dome route and upper Sentinal going home with 5 pitches of ice neither of us had done before. I am driving home content.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Dec 23, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
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Spider, hopped on that stuff below the dam yesterday. Fun stuff and you can't beat the approach
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Dec 23, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
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Say good bye to the Ice
just a prediction
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gimmeslack
Trad climber
VA
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Dec 24, 2011 - 06:41am PT
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Anyone: where did yabo's tooth get it's name?
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rdh
climber
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Dec 24, 2011 - 11:16am PT
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Anyone: where did yabo's tooth get it's name?
Yabo had this f*#ked-up tooth that he could pull out of its socket (and then put back into) with his tongue.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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at least this one will be good for a couple months
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Dec 24, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
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Thanks for the story Fos.
Kurt I looked at that Thursday I think... isn't it right where "Fuel Rod" is located?
Nice score!
Thanks for all the post from everyone.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Dec 24, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
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As promised, photos from Friday:
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superbum
Ice climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 24, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
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Yea, McTwist...Matt and I both have recieved yer photos! thanks again!
And nice job, Trevor and Kurt!! Matt and I looked at that, but didn't have time for a "close look..." maybe next week??? :)
So psyched for my next days off!!!!!
vic
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perswig
climber
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Dec 24, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
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SS, bent-shaft Shrikes in the 2nd pic?
My first 'real' WI tools. Poor technique still led to sore knuckles.
Dale
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big piner
Mountain climber
Big Pine, CA
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Dec 24, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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McTwisted -- thanks for the great photos!!! Climbing the white line on Drug Dome with Vic was fun, and to have you capture a few images was the coolest gift ever. You are the Santa I never had.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
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since there's a few more ice climbers now than back when i used to climb ice, i just wanted to let you guys know that the ice climbs in the valley area that survive the warm snaps are usually upper sentinal and white fang (they are both much more stable than the ice down lower in the valley. both are up high and in the shade, and a pretty quick approach now with the glacier point road open. theres some pretty good info from tommy's post on the upper sentinal back a few posts, i'm not sure if my beta to him was correct for these conditions but you can almost walk down to the base of the 3-4 pitches if you take the ramp down (to the east of the climb), we had snow years ago when i did it so did perhaps one rappel to get to the bottom of the ramp.
also if your looking for some mellow wi3- (2 pitch) to play on, consider white fang, sue and i lead the main route and t.r. ed another nearby, but there was one route way left (shown in photo) and one way right, that is hidden by buttress. probably in the same range of difficulty, that may have never been climbed. i dont know anyone thats ever been out there, except chapman and rudy tried to find it years ago and got turned around in the woods. to get there park at the taft point trailhead, walk to taft, then west following the rim, to ice (1.1mi. to taft then west less than mile??? to ice) big trees to rap in to bottom, around 200'???.
you can lead or do everything on t.r. with big tree anchors. the ice can be seen by walking more west around to the top of the buttress that can be seen in the pic, to the west of ice
white fang can be seen from the pullout near the entrance to manure pile, and upper sentinal best from pullout before rixons
this would be a great weekend destination to do both climbs, and if a guy really wanted to get the heart pumping you could go down to the yabo tooth too !(hee hee)
also for you eastside guys looking for another 2 pitch route, sue and i (when we lived at tpr in the winter) did this cool wi3 back at cascade lake (at the base of north peak). go to north side of saddlebag, hike to cascade lake and you will see beautiful east facing blue ice, when we did it there was a great big ice cave half way up the route to belay in
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
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your very welcome for the drug dome pics guys. i had (almost) as much fun as you did out there!
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Wedberg
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Dec 25, 2011 - 10:52am PT
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Kurt that looks cool, nice score.
Hopefully twill stay cold after this brief warm up in order to do some more mystery ice pitches Thanks Dave! The climb is a lot of fun. Here's another angle on it that shows the lower section of the climb a little better than the previous picture I posted earlier.
On the lower section we climbed the right drip just to the right of center of the photo. On the upper part we climbed the left side of that curtain. It looked like the right side would go as well. The issue would be getting to it.
While climbing it was obvious to us that nobody had been on this flow this year. We're still trying to find anybody who knows its climbing history. Maybe a past backcountry ranger or former TPR employee?
Kurt I looked at that Thursday I think... isn't it right where "Fuel Rod" is located?
Nice score! Thanks Tom! If you looked at this in the morning on Thursday you may have seen us on the route. We were off of it by late morning though.
I think "Fuel Rod" is located much farther to the left from where this formation is. It's about a 1 minute drive east of Tenaya Lake.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Dec 25, 2011 - 11:07am PT
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Wedberg
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Dec 25, 2011 - 11:20am PT
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Nice shot Scott! That looks like a sweet line. Where is that one located (if you don't mind me asking :) )?
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Dec 25, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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Yea Dan your beta was good and helpful.The only thing I would do different is not take the ramp approach. It was a casual 30 minute stroll to the top of the falls from the Sentinel Dome parking. From there we skirted around the rim to the east to the recommended ramp that took us to the base of the upper part of the falls. The ramp was a KNARLY bush whack. Once we committed and dropped in there was not going back. I think the ramp is were Yogi (the Bear that is not Werner) bivies for the winter. There was a ton of bear sh#t and a lot of nice caves to hide in. Anyway I think it would be better to just go to the top of the falls and rap into the climb. The top of the first and second pitches both have fixed rock belays. You would only have to leave an anchor on the top to get into the route. We did it Friday morning and it looked as though it had been climbed a few days prior to us. I sure wish the valley hosted colder temps for longer periods of time then the frozen water would be as world class as the rock.
Yea Scott show us some more!
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climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
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Dec 25, 2011 - 05:19pm PT
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Scott, 2-1/2 hrs approach?
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Dec 25, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
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Yep,
great climb we started at olmstead
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Dec 25, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
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Not that hard WI3 with a fun WI2 top out.
A great fun day.
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climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
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Dec 25, 2011 - 05:49pm PT
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If it makes it till Thurs I'm there!
Just noticed you said Olmstead. Better than Tenaya?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Dec 25, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
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I think "Fuel Rod" is located much farther to the left from where this formation is. It's about a 1 minute drive east of Tenaya Lake. Actually it's in the picture - red is Fuel Rod, and yellow is High Heels:
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PeteC
climber
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Dec 25, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
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Cool Scott! Did our V-threads melt out yet? Did you take it all the way to the rim? Wasn't it an awesome vibe in Tenaya canyon right now? Way to motivate!
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Dec 25, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
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It was a great vibe.
We toped it out but your V threads are still in place.
Cheers
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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Dec 25, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
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One from the way back machine.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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cool to see this stuff that you normally wouldnt see because it would blend in with the snow
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 25, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
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Awesome!!!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 25, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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Oh my, I had not seen that bunnell ice before.
That looks great.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 26, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
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A little dated but a good shot of the waterfall above the Wawona Tunnel viewpoint seen from the viewpoint. This is from 3 weekends ago.
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Brian
climber
California
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Dec 26, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
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Ice in the Meadows--both Kurt's line and Drug Dome--is good as of today. Though it did seem warm by the afternoon, the ice seemed fine--no real dripping or softness. Looked like there might be some other things through the trees West of Medlicott Dome, but I didn't have time to trudge over there to see if it was just a winter-style mirage or if it was real...
Brian
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 26, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
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Those look so f----- cool, I wish I could come out there right now. Kids are at grandma's and no partners for the next couple of days.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Dec 27, 2011 - 12:42am PT
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^^^
Mike, doing any "farming" this winter?
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Wedberg
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Dec 27, 2011 - 09:40am PT
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Actually it's in the picture - red is Fuel Rod, and yellow is High Heels: Thanks for clarifying that Greg. I've never climbed "Fuel Rod" (obviously) but tom Carter must have been correct. I used this SuperTopo page to answer tom's question. The picture of "Fuel Rod" in the SuperTopo page makes it look like it's in a different area.
And nice job, Trevor and Kurt!! Matt and I looked at that, but didn't have time for a "close look..." maybe next week??? :) Thanks Vic! I'd be psyched to see that line get another ascent this year. Trevor and I keep looking around for somebody else who's previously climbed it and so far we haven't found anybody. We're certain it hasn't been climbed this year but I'm curious to know if it forms the same way consistently each year or if it varies. Or, maybe on a "normal year" it's covered in snow? Get in touch if you want some beta and definitely let us know if you guys give it a go! According to Brian (a couple posts above) on the 26th: Ice in the Meadows--both Kurt's line and Drug Dome--is good as of today.
Though it did seem warm by the afternoon, the ice seemed fine--no real dripping or softness. The good news is this climb gets morning sun but by noon-ish it's back in shade. Hopefully it'll stay there until the snow falls!
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JamesG
Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Dec 27, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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What are these conditions doing to the higher altitude ice, like say Dana Coulior or Mt. Gilbert?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 27, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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Friend and I did Third Pillar on 24th of Dec. We saw Dana Couloir. There was no streaks of ice obvious, but on the way out we saw couple of guys who did it and said there was a bit ice in there. I saw some streaks of water ice on North face of Dana itself. Will post pics tonight...
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Dec 27, 2011 - 06:53pm PT
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superbum
Ice climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 27, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
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Yahooo! Thanks Kurt...Im gonna call you in a few minutes...
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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A friend reported a good climb on Drug Dome ice yesterday.
Cheers!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 28, 2011 - 12:55am PT
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Please post regarding current conditions on Drug dome if someone climbs it. I am most likely going to attempt it on Friday if the thing is safe enough with this temperature rise...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 01:00am PT
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a not great picture of Silver Strand from high on Reed's, 12/27/11
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big piner
Mountain climber
Big Pine, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 01:17am PT
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Hmmm...Silver Strand is looking interesting. Anyone care to share approach beta?
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CF
climber
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:43am PT
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Hiked up there last spring. Parked halfway up to tunnel view, gained the old road and then go up before the major stream that crosses the old road. The stream will take you west of the SS. Steep but not bad.
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Brian
climber
California
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Dec 28, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
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Bad news folks. Things are warming up.
I went up this morning for a second lap on Kurt's new(?) line. Two days made a big difference. I was on it early, well before the sun came around, and it was streaming with water. I was without a partner today, so I soloed up to the big halfway ledge and then walked around left to drop a line and mini-traxion the crux curtain. (Note to self, mini-traxion on a single 8.2 cord feels sketchy, even though it's rated down to 8mm ropes.) I was off the route about the time the sun came around and hit it, and was bouldering over by the Knobs by 9:00am.
Anyhow, the crux curtain was running with water (behind it and on the surface). The climbing was straightforward and no harder, but it would be stubbies in wet, soft ice for pro. There are lots of folks stronger, braver, and more experienced than I, but I have been ice climbing a long time and I would definitely call it absolute no-fall territory in its current condition. I'd trust the stubbies in the thicker, upper section; but in the lower part of the curtain they might hold body weight.
Thanks Kurt for posting about this. I'm up on the Eastside a lot, but I'm no local so I feel super lucky to have gotten two laps on this route.
On another note, there is indeed another sheet of ice west of Medlicott Dome (on the south side of the road). It looks relatively low angle, and from across the valley I couldn't see how thick it is. There is also another column coming out of a chimney uphill from Kurt's line, but it looks pretty sun-baked and I didn't walk up to check it out. If we get another serious cold snap it might be worth a recon.
Not sure how these temps are impacting the Drug Dome route. There was a car parked there when I drove in this morning, so maybe that team will post up.
Brian
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 28, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
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Yesterday (more pics to come later):
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 28, 2011 - 04:43pm PT
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Thanks Bill!
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big piner
Mountain climber
Big Pine, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
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Brian -- good on ya' for firing up the Stately Pleasure route one more time. Superbum Vic and I checked it out this morning around 10 am and it sounded like a navigable waterway. As we discussed what to do, we watched ice exfoliating from the route. Ah, life on a warming planet.
Instead, we headed for a yellowish flow southeast of Lee Vining Canyon. From a distance it looked like a longish vertical route. If you've looked at it and thought about shwacking over to check it out, well, I'd recommend enjoying it from a distance. It's short, pretty low-angle, and getting wet by early afternoon. That said, it would make a great first-timer's lead or a nice venue to teach ice climbing. The shwack through willows and cliff bands means there will be short lines, as opposed to the routes in LVC right around the corner.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 29, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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big piner, was this you?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 29, 2011 - 01:39am PT
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Wedburg, your line looked a little rough in today's morning sun. Did you see it today?
In other news, Drug Dome looked funky to me, but I'm a woose on ice.
But check it, someone in blue doing the raps on the right side...
must have been awesome!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Dec 29, 2011 - 02:10pm PT
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Anyone know where to rent ice skates near Yosemite? Tioga looks cool. I've never skated on a lake before.
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micronut
Trad climber
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Dec 29, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
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Me an Macronut are gonna go get frostbite on Snake Dike on New Years Day. Anybody know if we will be able to refill water from the river above Nevada and Vernal? Is it still trickling or is it frozen? I really dont want to carry water for the whole day from the car nor carry a stove. Any beta would be great.
Thanks.
Scott
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micronut
Trad climber
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Dec 29, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
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Paul,
Call curry.....or rent them for the rink in Curry and ask if you can pay a late return fee.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 29, 2011 - 07:47pm PT
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Micronut - was in Little Yosemite Valley Tuesday doing some recon on the waterfall ice west of Bunnell Point. It was balmy warm in the sun. It's been warmer since so maybe there is more open water on the Merced than noted below.
BTW - climbed Snake Dike on 10/9/11 in the afternoon sun and found the top of the descent down the cables to be pretty iced-up. Attentiveness recommended.
Open water?? There were patches of open water out away from the river bank...
-and this-
Other stretches like this:
It has been warmer, so there's probably lots more open water now...
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climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
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Dec 30, 2011 - 11:21am PT
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RE: drug dome route, climbed it yesterday along with...yes 3 other parties. Route is still in pretty good shape but warmth is taking its toll.
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YosemiteSteve
Trad climber
CA
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Dec 31, 2011 - 05:41pm PT
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Drove past Drug Dome at 1:00 on the 31st, and my car thermometer said 48º. Didn't see anyone on it, which is probably good.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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drove over 120 today...
2 guys had a TR set up on the ice just below Ellery Lake. Approach from 120 to top of this ice is about hmmm...45 seconds?
Drug Dome looked pretty wet and thin from the road (but it looks that way in photos upthread on the day people climbed it)
Photo from parking area for Pywiack. This ice also looked pretty wet and thin in spots
solo'd this pretty little icefall just east of Yosemite Creek, probably WI zero but some nice ice and fun to strap on the crampons and swing the old CFBPs.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Maybe not this year, but BMcC's Vernal photo gives hope for an FA one day. Like, the icicles on either side of the flowing water would only need to extend a little farther down, to provide a continuous path from bottom to top.
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bpope
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Any chance that anyone's got more recent beta? Was thinking of exploring LIttle Yosemite this weekend...
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Just went ice climbing for my first time today at Lee Vining! I'm so hooked!
I have everything, but axes. If anyone is looking for a partner (experienced alpinist, trad/bigwall climber, but ice newbie) hit me up! I'm roadtripping until the 16th.
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Gene
climber
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Jan 12, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
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Curious... Does the Gunsight ever offer ice/mixed at an easy rating?
g
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Specialblend
Sport climber
Thousand Oaks
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Jan 17, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Can anyone report current conditions in the canyon? Looks like there might finally be weather moving in at the end of the week. How is access to Ellery Falls if Tioga road ends up closed? Thanks all!
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Specialblend
climber
Thousand Oaks
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Jan 17, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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Thank you for the beta Cragman. Is Roadside in June Lake still out?
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Wedberg
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Jan 17, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
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Climbed Drug Dome last Wednesday and it was still good. It's getting thinner but I think it'll hang in there for another couple weeks. Our line next to "Fuel Rod" is officially done.
Lee Vining Cyn is good but limited climbs have coverage.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 17, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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Does the Gunsight ever offer ice/mixed at an easy rating? Pretty sure the only flowing water in there is when it rains.
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Specialblend
climber
Thousand Oaks
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Jan 18, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
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Roadside has some top-ropable ice.
Glad to hear it. Is Horseshoe Falls in at all? Trying to figure out the best options for my trip next week. Appreciate the information!
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jedster
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 30, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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Since the pass has closed, and the buzz over high country ice has quieted, it seems fitting to give a final shout out to those unique and appreciated conditions. What an ice season we had through December and the first half of January. Don't get me wrong, I'm psyched to have snow to ski on and smooth the approach to LVC (where, incidentally, ice contiinues to grow... the Main Wall should be good to lead any day now...), but we sure made the most of those dry conditions. I told a skiing and climbing buddy, "we're probably not getting any snow because we're having too much fun on the ice. We should be sulking more".
What does the Valley ice look like lately? Anything at all?
Check out this video from the Cloud's Rest ice. Pardon the "salesy" intro... it really is just a story. We climbed the day the pass closed. The ranger let us out, and closed the gate behind us. I bet the warm storm renewed some of the water flow, replacing the ice where we "climbed" rock. Someone get adventurous and get in there again. [Click to View YouTube Video]
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 31, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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Wi3+ C2 M2? : ) very nice video. tool idea is hilarious.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 31, 2012 - 09:48am PT
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The key to the route for us was climbing it when it was fat.
next time hike from the point
good job
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Here's from my first time ice climbing, Jan 9, 2012. I don't recall the name of this fall. It is one of the first ones when hiking up LV Canyon. My buddy Ted had rolled his ankle the day before and didn't feel up to leading it. So we scrambled up to the rapp slings, rapped to the 3 bolt anchor, and set a full pitch top rope.
It was crazy that we rock climbed in the Gorge without shirts, skied Mammoth another day, then went ice climbing another day....all within an hour's travel of each other.
And a video of me on my second day. I'm hooked! However, too bad I live on the west side of the Sierras. :(
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Widow's tears on 1/3/13. Apparently an attempt happening as this iphoto was taken
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Looks like WI 4+
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Badass.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Congrats to Jason and his partner.
First climbed by Mark Chapman and Kevin Worral in 1975. Seems rare that it's in condition. Yesterday's might be the 12th ascent.
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WBraun
climber
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Greg Loniewsk & Jason Torlono.
Jason told me running water was squirting out while tooling their axes in various places on the upper pitches ......
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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how cold was it in the valley that day?
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Nice graph. If it were only ten degrees colder...
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Man, that ice in Tuolumne looks AWESOME - way to get after it guys!!
I think the ice in Yosemite is always wet.
Leversee, EC Joe and I did Upper Sentinel Falls back in the '80's and got absolutely drenched.
Then, after an ice climbing trip to Canada where it was wicked cold and everything was dinner plated, Tom Davies and I went up and did Silver Strand and it was like plastic - compared to what we had been climbing on up in Canada.
Actually, we climbed at Reeds the day before in t-shirts, and Werner, you may not remember this, but you were like, yer' going to die, when you heard we were going to go up to the Strand the next day. Of course we got to the base and there was a big hole with water clearly gushing. I remember saying, I'll just climb up a ways and check it out - ha, ha - anyway, we had water coming out of pick holes, but got to the top only to find a huge horizontal crack about 10' below the top. The route fell down three days later...
I had always wanted to do that route after spending several months in Patagonia with Walt - and hearing him rave about his epic on it. Never got to do Widows Tear though....
Paul
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WBraun
climber
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Bruce
Yes those temps are marginal.
These two guys Jason and Greg are locals who live and work here.
Greg is a contractor who works all the time but he's done lots of El Cap routes, Fitzroy, Cerro Torre, and free climbs hard trad all while working full time.
These guys were off the couch to speak on this and just went for it.
Blah blah blah
Gagner
Yeah I remember that. The strand has more of a history of water coming out of the pick holes.
It's a scary fuker because of that along with the cauliflower ice up there.
Mayfield free soloed and he had that problem with water gushing out.
Scary ass sh!t!
I was with Shipley once and the whole ice pillar broke with me on it and Walt and Stretch were belaying me with no anchor sliding towards the edge from the weight. (not on Widows Tears)
LOL good stuff ... :-)
And Bruce
Some of us are too poor to fly all over the place to play .....
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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This is one drainage to the left of Widow's tears yesterday. Seems like some of these smears are about to connect. Any ascents over in this area?
Thanks Kevin, I was wondering where the best vantage was.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Werner - if i remember correctly from a phone conversation almost decades ago with Peter, his solo of the Silver Strand was even more exciting than just water gushing out. I think he said he broke a pick when he was way, way up there and had to hang off one tool while replacing the broken pick on his other tool.
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WBraun
climber
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BMcC, most likely although I can't remember all the details.
But you remember, so that sounds like a nightmare, yikes !!!!
Maybe Peter will post and tell us again .....
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
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here's a shot of the tears 6 days ago. looks like the curtain fell off the day before this shot was taken. good job to the guys climbing this in less than ideal conditions
yeh i remember doing the strand with peter and his crampon loosened up leading the second pitch, he somehow finished the pitch though
ill go up and take some more pics tomorrow!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Is there an anchor at the top to top rope widow's tears??
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
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just ask werner to borrow the 4000 footer from sar. big tree on top for tr :)
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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I flew out to Salt Lake once for some "sweet" ice climbing. Of course you buy the cheap ticket a couple of weeks in advance and don't know what conditions you are going to get. Well, a warm front came in and when we arrived is was kind of warm misty all over. Not rain, but you'd get wet after an hour in the stuff. Anyway, we had flown in to climb so we went climbing. On our way in two locals were coming down saying "its too warm". But we went up anyway. Actually, I was like "maybe not today", but my (shall remain nameless) partner insisted. A pitch up Stairway to Heaven I feel the whole curtain settle a couple of inches (should have been a clue). I'm freaked. "leave a f*#king screw and lets get out of here." But no, younger voices pushed me on and up. About 15 minutes later the whole f*#king curtain to our right came down. Maybe 100' wide by 100' high sheet of ice just peeled away from the bare rock. All this less then 100' from us. Finally we got real and bailed. And I made a vow, never to climb on warm ice again. Sh#t does happen.....
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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taken on 1-4-13
here is the same spot Dan
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I was joking about top roping Widow's Tears by the way :) That would be sort of hilarious though..
PS: looks not bad today! Where's that SAR rope located?!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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What's the rating on it anyways? Must not be any harder than wi4-5 with some runout sections maybe? It's the objective danger and conditions that is the crux, or there is some hard climbing there too?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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It was F*#KING ICY THERE YESTERDAY!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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I gotta admit, even after all these years, I still get excited whenever it gets climbed. Its such a rare and beautiful climb. Kevin and I were so lucky to get the FA...and survive the experience! Kevin pegged it: rarely will you ever find it in ideal conditions. Probably the closest was in 78 when Dale and Ron did the second ascent and Ed Barry and I did the third. It was so good. Unbelievable really. A complete change from what Kevin and I experienced. I just had to do it again. It was a cold snowy winter that year. Several feet of snow in the Valley floor. The approach was horrendous. I remember once flailing in snow up to my armpits crossing snow covered talus. The drainage from the heavy snow helped it fill in really nicely. Kevin and I did it in mid Feb. of 1975 and the ascents in 1978 were also done in mid Feb. Seems rather late in the year for ice climbing. Goog job Greg and Jason!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Happy New Year Kevin! Hope you are well. Our ascent was perhaps my (our?)most memorable climbing experience.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Warbler, I was just asking about the ratings to see if it is even worth it for me to bug anyone to walk over to the base and look at it with me. I am fairly new to ice, but like it and obtained more confidence after my last trip. Not Yosemite, but a beautiful spot. I think I took some ok photos there too, check it out if you like TRs: http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/01/hyalite-my-post-christmas-break.html
Will post here after I load more pics to the site, it is annoyingly slow....
Anyway, it is such a good feeling to feel like something that seemed WAY THE HELL ABOVE me, as MAYBE possible. Right time, right partner, good luck, and maybe one day....would love to do that climb on the Watchtower too. Did many of you do that one too? Seems cool.
Congrats on FA Chappy!
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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that climb is out of there...you gotta be on it at the right moment
prolly gonna happen again this season
hummmmm....
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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real deal bump. thanks for the real (deal) history too.
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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"I remember once flailing in snow up to my armpits crossing snow covered talus"
Had to really want it to go through that eh chillywip? That's history right there!
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
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looks to be building nicely, heres a few pics from today (1/5/13), thought i might even see someone on it
but not today
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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That looks pretty doable right now Dan. Great pics ! Unfortunately, I was always scared shitless on ice, so I'm a non contender.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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looks soooo gooood
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
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sure does look good
heres another little morsel, just left of pulpit rock, looks like fair kicks
cant remember hearing of anyone ever doing it, never really noticed it before???
perhaps this will be a good ice year!
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WBraun
climber
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That thing is death right now.
The cloud cover is on tonight .
It's getting warm from the next front rolling in right now..
Everything is melting.
You're gonna die .....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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we're all gonna die, Werner...
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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That thing by pulpit cuts and you'd have a fast ride into the Merced.
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bearbnz
Trad climber
East Side, California
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Here is some ice on the eastern edge of the park off the Dana Plateau. Has it been climbed? Does it have a route name? It is just climber's left of Cocaine Chute, which is on the right edge of the photo. I didn't really get close enough to get a realistic idea of the quality or attractiveness... The photo is from 2012.
Nothing to do with ice, but here is an aerial photo of the 3rd Pillar on Dana.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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That's a cool photo of Third Pillar!
Where is the pull out that people use to access widow's tears? Would be nice to go look at it some time up close.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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The view from inside the Tears Amphitheater is out of this world
How can I get there? Is there directions online or something?
PS: sorry if it seems like a dumb question. I have not been climbing for too long and the Valley still has MANY areas I need to visit. Been only to a few..
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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there are some possible lines to the south of the Dana couloir. anybody ever done those?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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The view from inside the Tears Amphitheater is out of this world, and nearly never seen by anyone.
Shiver me timbers ...
I'd love to hit that spot, even if it did entail some wallowing & sketchy rapping...
It was cold in the Cruz last night. I wonder if we're gonna get another cold snap.
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sneville
climber
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Vitaliy,
A good approach is to use the beta in the Reed guide for the approach to climb WindFall (The climb looks awesome). I believe there is beta on mountain project. The approach in the summer was not that bad (about an 1hr). If you get the approach right you should cross the old 41 road at the bottom. If you make it to windfall you can scramble around to the left(exposed 4th class) into theater. This place is great just to walk in the theater. Have fun.
Sean
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Thank you Sean and Warbler!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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If someone local can take a few pictures of the falls on Wednesday or Thursday it would be awesome. Seems like a warming trend going on, wonder if it survives.
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hamik
Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
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Vittles, a friend who works at the Ahwahnee might check for us today!
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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Vitaliy, even though its been warm the ice is still hanging in. these shots are from tues. late afternnon 1/8/13.
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CF
climber
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Stole these from Jasons FB page.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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Thank you Mctwisted! You are the man! What do you do in Yosemite? Great place to live huh?
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SpeedyTaco
Ice climber
San Gabes & Yosemite Village
|
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Better pics than mine. Still looked good this afternoon (Tuesday).
Lotta lines appear to be in all over the place. Supposedly a lotta rockfall above Huff/Curry Village today... coulda been ice, everyone here assumes it's rock. Anywho.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
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18 degrees in el portal, vitaliy it looks like you'll be able to see some good ice if you come up.
hey if anyone goes up there (on the tears) let me know so i can go take a couple pics
thanks
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WBraun
climber
|
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Jan 11, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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After Jason did the tears he went over to Quarter Domes with Eric Rasmusan and one other guy past half dome and skied down from Quarter Dome to Tenya Canyon.
New Ice Climb on Quarter Dome? Anyone up for it?
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WBraun
climber
|
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Jan 11, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
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The whole bottom 300 feet is now gone as of today ......
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
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them lads is goin' after it
these shots 1/11/2013 around noon
werner, looks like the first pitch fell off a day or two ago?
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WBraun
climber
|
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Jan 11, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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Yeah it did, Dan
Jason was here about 2 hours ago and told me it fell off.
We think it was that night before this last cold storm when it got really warm.
3 nights ago maybe?
It's a full on blizzard here right now .....
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Jan 11, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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Greg and Jason,
Awesome! Can't wait to talk to you guys about it.
Chappy
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 11, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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what a f*#king bitch, had to fall off the day before we attempt the thing. It should be doable real soon though, doable 70% now and probably totally doable for someone with much more skills and stupidity. I bet by Sunday it would be good...oh well
Beautiful place that cirque. Upper pitches look fantastic and very solid.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
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Jan 11, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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Quater Dome first ski descent I don't think your line off the top of Mammoth sees much action either.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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looks like a fast party did the tears and topped out around 1pm
heres a few shots of the rest of the route
here's a few from closer up, but i coudnt get the lower section from here
heres a few of the silverstrand, starting to look good
parting shot of icicles on Bridalveil
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
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you got it walter. here's another pic from today
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
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Rick Harlan and Kim Dao are who did the Tears yesterday. Said it was great with the cold temps, and it should hang in there as long as the temps stay cold.
Way to go guys - I'm jealous!!
P.
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gilly
climber
Mohawk Valley,Ca
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:04am PT
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Stu and Bri, great work!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:41am PT
|
so bitchin' this is getting done... hoping, fantasizing that I might get a shot... one of these dwindling days!!
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Jan 14, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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Suppose to be warmer the next few days
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
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Jan 14, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
|
Nice one Kim --- Tick!
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
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silver strand got climbed today, and its getting fatter
heard the start of widows tears is now good enough to take 4"screws. didnt see anyone on it today
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
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Jan 14, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
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Maybe some day. Not me though.
Ken
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
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here's an old shot of Mayfield i found recently in my old slides. this is from bitd
these routes are really awesome! should be good for at least a couple more days
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
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yeh Ken, i remember seeing that climbable before, just barely. fell off the next day though. it will get climbed someday. all kinds of stuff forming right now all over the place
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
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Jan 14, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
|
Another route of the future?
Ken
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
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yeh i was lookin' at that today. its just right of the romulan and vortex, steep!
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
|
pulpit area is trying to form up again
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
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dave, give greg a call, he needs a partner asap
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
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one more from bitd on the strand, shows the route pretty good. it was nice and fat, but pretty wet
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YosemiteSteve
Trad climber
CA
|
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:05am PT
|
I did a quick tour of the Valley today, checking out the effects of these super cold temps. Lots of ice everywhere, and it looked like the 1st pitch of Widow's had reformed some.
A big frazil ice flow plugged up the main channel of the Merced between Happy Isles and Clarks bridge.
Bridalveil Fall is in it's crazy ice-monster phase.
There were chunks of ice falling from the top of El Cap, and the Merced River at the west end of the meadow was frozen all the way across.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:20am PT
|
Nice photos Steve and Dan. The river was starting to freeze up at Table Rock today.
Ken
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ryankelly
Trad climber
el portal
|
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:31am PT
|
chilly wind today.
nice photo Ken. Cold as a snowman's rear out there.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
|
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Jan 15, 2013 - 11:51am PT
|
Hi Dan and All-
Thanks for all the updates and information helping us do one of these great climbs!
Cheers, Brian
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YosemiteSteve
Trad climber
CA
|
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Jan 15, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
|
There's a party of three on Windows Tears today. They were a little less than halfway up at around noon. I shot a timelapse of the leader on what I guess was the 3rd or 4th pitch. Here's a photo of my viewfinder:
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Captain...or Skully
climber
|
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Jan 15, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
|
Sure seems like a high traffic area these days.
Woot!
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WBraun
climber
|
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Jan 15, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
|
Park rangers are doing it right now ......
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
|
way to go after guys
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Gene
climber
|
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Jan 15, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
|
Tears in real time. Who woulda thunk?
g
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YosemiteSteve
Trad climber
CA
|
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
|
I went back down to Pohono Bridge at 4 o'clock, and the party of 3 on Widows (Rangers, apparently) were just starting what I assume is the last pitch:
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
|
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
|
maybe the rangers scored that nice 70m cord that was at the base on 1/13/13
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Wildincognito
climber
Eastside
|
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Jan 16, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
|
Definitely not rangers. That was Kevin Daniels, Kurt Wedberg, and I. We left the cord but kept a couple of screws we found- missed the draws somehow. Got back to Bishop at around 3 am this morning- 24 hrs after we woke up in the Valley (long drive for us this time of year). Lots of pics between us and would love to see that time lapse when it's ready Steve. Great route! Be safe, chose well, maybe bring a wetsuit.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Jan 21, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
|
I've met Doug. Nice guy. Some of his smash and grab trips, i.e. weekend trips from NM to Alaska, are crazy. glad he was able to get it done.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 21, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
|
exellent work!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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Jan 25, 2013 - 02:29am PT
|
So how is the climb doing? Did it fall of partially due to the high temps or is it surviving?
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SpeedyTaco
Ice climber
San Gabes & Yosemite Village
|
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Jan 25, 2013 - 02:32am PT
|
Loads of stuff fell off today. Rain and higher temps. Noisy everywhere you go.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
|
Bump for updates. Some photos from today would be great!
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The Guy
Trad climber
Portland, OR
|
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|
Jan 25, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
|
Not as recent as requested but it looked really good Sunday.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
|
Vitaliy, silverstrand wasnt looking to good on my way back from work, i only looked at the top half of route, the left 1/3 had fallen off, and i was surprised that it was there at all considering how warm it has been last few days
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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Jan 26, 2013 - 12:40am PT
|
Thank you guys. haha I heard it was real warm and raining at 8000ft yesterday! Forecast shows good cooling ahead, but by than there might not be any of it left I guess. At least now I have a partner! Can't believe I couldn't get anyone to go with me last Wednesday. I mean damn, it's Widows Tears! Say hell with work and go..especially when there were others climbing the route and conditions were obviously better than usual. :/
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mackenzie74
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
|
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Jan 26, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
|
Would be very interesting to see how Widows Tears and Silver strand look after the recent warming trend. Watching it all fall off would be quite a scene.
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mackenzie74
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
|
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Jan 26, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
|
By the way has anyone soloed the Tears?
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
|
looking pretty rough this morning
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
|
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Jan 27, 2013 - 12:15am PT
|
Hi Dan-
Awesome photo! Thanks for the updates…. So cool.
Cheers, Brian
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
|
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It's so warm right now. Last week during the cold snap some climbs went down. Paging Vitaliy
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
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We are in a classic January Thaw right now.
I wouldn't worry about ice anytime soon.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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Update about climbs that are likely not there anymore. Here is SS on 1/1/15. Climbed it on 1/2/2015. Would be interesting to find out when it collapsed...in any case, super fun climb! It was 600 ft of climbing and not 'fat.' Made a video about the climb! Will post soon!
Widows tears was non existing in the upper pitches, which was a big surprise to me. Some of the bottom pitches were actually there!
Sentinel falls looked awesome up high but the middle section was missing. Bottom part looked possibly doable.
Rock climbing was IN!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
|
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Proud climb V. Looks thin from here!!!
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
|
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|
Dec 21, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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Dec 21, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
|
Any photos of the Widows Tears?
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661climber
climber
Central valley
|
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|
Dec 22, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
|
Anybody been on SS?
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
|
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Dec 22, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
|
nothin was goin on with the tears last week when i looked at it. not enough moisture to even form the top
strand was lookin good, but now that its been raining, prolly a bit wrecked
heres shot from a few days ago, will update if it looks climbable once i get back from xmas at moms
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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Dec 22, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
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Thanks a lot for the update. Please please please post up or email me if you see the tears forming! xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com
Would be happy to reward you with a bottle of wine if the info you provide leads to me climbing that thing. :) And for all the cool routes you have contributed!
SS looks FAT
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
|
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Dec 22, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
|
u bet brah! psyched to take some cool shots when your up there!
mcd
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Dec 23, 2015 - 06:06am PT
|
BUMP,That looks sweet.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
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Dec 27, 2015 - 11:05am PT
|
Looks like the temps have been good, what's the ice doing? Dan?
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
|
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Dec 27, 2015 - 02:12pm PT
|
Hey Jeff!
just talked to my buddy Greg (he has climbed the tears and strand in the past). he looked at both yesterday.
the main structure of the climbs is intact after the recent rains, and things are filling in again and flowing.
i'll get a pic soon.
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WBraun
climber
|
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|
Dec 27, 2015 - 03:00pm PT
|
I saw them yesterday and they are getting thick ....
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
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|
Dec 27, 2015 - 03:56pm PT
|
Thanks for the update.
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squishy
Mountain climber
|
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|
Dec 28, 2015 - 01:37pm PT
|
I want to see some sick media from this stuff vittles..go get it..
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
|
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Dec 28, 2015 - 05:47pm PT
|
12/28/2015
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
|
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Dec 28, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
|
i have seen video of Doug NiDiver leading those pitches with much less than is there now. could not believe what i was watching. (no tools) climbin the slab with no pro for ages. brushing off the snow and sorta free climbin.
kick ass!
yep, u gotta want it!
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
|
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Dec 28, 2015 - 07:56pm PT
|
gotta dream big!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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|
Dec 28, 2015 - 08:09pm PT
|
Vittlez has to work till Thursday, will have to be someone else to get the glory! :)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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Dec 28, 2015 - 09:31pm PT
|
If I was sponsored, maybe i'd feel the burning need to climb it..a few years ago tried it day after the first two pitches fell off, and the attempt didn't get far. The photos above make it look like a bunch of snow over rock. If someone gets a clear photo tomorrow, I may be able to get a last minute partner and try it Wednesday, but finding a partner on such a short notice is cruxy. It isn't royal arches and most guys who would be willing have that job thing to deal with as well. Where I work, we are already a person short, so getting a day off would be fairly hard. It is a bit frustrating, honestly. But I shouldn't be too upset, I had a great amount of ice last weekend...aside from a basketball sized chunk choping my eyebrow open. Leading a WI5 pitch while blood is pouring into your eye is an interesting experience. :) Anyways, picture+partner+stupidity=#sendingthegnar
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fosburg
climber
|
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|
Dec 28, 2015 - 10:32pm PT
|
Well, let's hope for cold temps.
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fosburg
climber
|
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|
Dec 28, 2015 - 10:42pm PT
|
I've got a pair of tools you can use Werner, it'll be great!
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rdh
climber
|
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|
Dec 29, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
|
Just curious as to what the immediately preceding posted photos by vitally m. have to do with Valley ice? They are clearly not in the valley. Shouldn't they be deleted from this thread?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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Dec 29, 2015 - 09:50pm PT
|
Just curious as to what the immediately preceding posted photos by vitally m. have to do with Valley ice?
Pure spray, and yes, the photos should be deleted. Call the elves to take them down! Along with all the other posts that do not have anything to do with the valley ice...like your post. And non-climbing threads on the forum too.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Dec 30, 2015 - 07:25am PT
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Thanks for the pics Walter. Got more? How about that video Dan, I would love to see that.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 30, 2015 - 10:28am PT
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Walleye wrote: "perhaps the thinnest, yet coldest most bonded conditions the Strand has ever been climbed on. Winter 2006-07."
Here's a link to more pics from the Scott Brown, Doug Nidever, and Dave Bangston climb of the Widows Tears on January 17, 2007:
http://www.californiaalpineguides.com/Widows.html
Walleye, do you know if the Silver Strand was also climbed that season?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2015 - 10:40am PT
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Warbler put up the Tears? Respect, braj.
Brah, it took them like 4 days with 3 bivouacs. That's some PellucidWombat shiet. Megalight. 2/10. Have you done it IAD since than Warbeezy?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2015 - 11:24am PT
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We did it with one set of tools, so we had to lower them to the follower after every lead. It was in Late February, so every afternoon crap would start falling off the rim after being in the sun all day, so we stopped climbing early, i don't even have to tell us what those tools looked like, AND the first pitch was my first lead, evah, on ice.
Did I mention no goretex or pile, wool knickers and sweaters, wet down bags, and no food on the last day?
Sounds like a typical party on Munginella in the present times...muhuhaha
Because I am not climbing, I will keep on hatin'. Keepin it Yosemite Ice oriented though...
Check out the orange rope in the photo below...god...I don't even want to do this silly waterfall any longer; everyone on it seem to do noob shiet. Gosh..
Would love to see some photos of people sending it today, or yesterday. Rub it innnn! :((
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2015 - 11:53am PT
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Where do you live now Kevin?
Burchy, hijack him on the way to Lee Vining (last weekend of January, right?). Imagine how much fun we would have if we all got to hang out together. Seriously!
AND it was only three days, no falls no hangs no bolts, btw.
Daum, would be sick if you bolted a pure ice climb.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Dec 30, 2015 - 01:11pm PT
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looks like its ready!
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Dec 30, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
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these shots are from a few hours ago!
heres a closeup of the section thats always the slowest to form up on the tears
midsection
top is looking Phat!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 30, 2015 - 01:26pm PT
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Somebody needs to hop on that thing. The Rocky Mountain states are full of great ice climbers who would dispatch that thing in no time. Maybe someone needs to get on the phone.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Dec 30, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
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lower half of strand
upper half
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2015 - 02:13pm PT
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Hope someone does it tomorrow and breaks the trail!
Silver Strand looks so much more FAT compared to when I did it. We placed no bolts and climbed with no hangs too!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I live in La Jolla Vittles, and it's been plenty cold for me right here.
Hope we go to some ST meet up or I go down there to check out woodson so that we all could hang out. Would be fun, I think. Probably a good thing you can't make it out to LV, all of our egos would melt all the ice and the chief would be super pissed.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 30, 2015 - 02:28pm PT
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Some of the story of the bold FA of the Widows Tears by Kevin Worral and Mark Chapman in 1975 (perhaps as recounted by Mark Chapman), as recorded in Jeff Lowe's 1979 book, The Ice Experience:
Cheers!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2015 - 02:43pm PT
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Wow that is a cool article you posted, Bill. Too bad Kevin's sexy face did not get as much exposure as Mark's. Impressive feat for the day. I think first versions of ice tools were made around 1972?
Pretty crazy they call 'The Nemesis (wi6)' as the hardest route in the Canadian Rockies at the time. In addition, it did not have a free ascent than. When my friend and I climbed it a month or so ago, it was after not doing any ice climbing in two years (aside from the Silver Strand). It was not picked out, was in thin conditions compared to the usual picked out semi-ladder, but it didn't even feel that bad. Not saying it was easy by any means, but it was more fun than "OMG IM GONNA DIE," even though I have thought that at least a few times. But I do that on well protected 5.10s too when my feet are 2 ft above a cam. :) Modern gear makes things so much more fun, damn I am happy about all the advances that were made. We are so lucky...
Is the Curtain Call considered to be harder than the Nemesis?
"Mark took a long fall on the tied off screw on the ninth pitch. He finally used a few screws for aid..."
Did you guys go back to redpoint? Weerbeezy be wolfin about no falls brah! >:)
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 30, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
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Vitaliy - J Brent Peters lists Curtain Call as slightly more difficult that Nemesis in his 2013 guidebook, IceLines Select Waterfalls of the Canadian Rockies. However, "conditions may vary..." Haven't done Nemesis, yet, but was super lucky and got excellent ice (almost easy given modern gear) and the magical mystery tour finish on Curtain Call a while back. http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Some-late-season-Canadian-ice-various-little-climbs-along-with-Curtain-Call-and-the-Polar-Circus/t12716n.html
For me, modern tools, crampons, screws, light ropes, and clothing are so much better and so much more fun to climb with than the stuff available in and before 1979 when a lot of the "hard" routes listed in Jeff Lowe's book were FA-ed. Cheers!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Dec 30, 2015 - 03:34pm PT
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Thursday and Friday the lows are looking good...
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Dec 30, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
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Nemesis is modern grade V....only 3rd pitch and depending if you take it all the way out and do a hanging belay way up there.
E
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Dec 30, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 30, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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From a CO perspective the 1975 photo looks positively fat! The current conditions not so much . . . however it does look doable In Mr. McTwisted's images if you are willing to accept the risks.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Dec 30, 2015 - 09:53pm PT
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What I was trying to say (finishing up my previous post) was the post storm cold snap allowed just enough ice to form filling in the upper "headwall". This is one of the steeper sections and where I took my fall. Still can't believe I wasn't injured. It was hollow, thin, and running with water. You can just make out two parallel ribs of ice in this section. I climbed the left one. Spooky climbing past the fracture point. Had we not managed on this attempt we would have been out of luck. It didn't ice up again until the winter of 78/79 when it was mega thick and bomber. I just had to do it again!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Dec 30, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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You are right Kalimon--a lot of what you see in this photo was fat. The pitch Kev led off the snow ledge (our second bivy was off to the right) was the best ice of the whole climb. Absolutely bomber and not too steep. The headwall was another matter. The last two pitches were quite good as well. The first pitch (not pictured) was quite thin. The middle steep section (also not pictured) had some hollow rottenish ice as well.
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Stewart Johnson
Social climber
lake forest
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Dec 31, 2015 - 06:00am PT
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This route would be soloed
On a regular basis if it was in
The Rockies
Currently I'm in Belieze
And headed home
Someone please break the trail
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 31, 2015 - 10:02am PT
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Kevin, PM sent. If you didn't get it, email xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com
The supertopo PM service is sh#t and does not work most of the time.
Stewart, when are you coming?
PS: supposedly someone is climbing it today, so the trail should be broken. :)
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 31, 2015 - 11:02am PT
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Party on the Widows Tears right now 1/3 way up .....
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Dec 31, 2015 - 04:01pm PT
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 31, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
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Yehhaaawww!
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Dec 31, 2015 - 04:19pm PT
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12/31/15
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 31, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
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Thanks for the great photos Dan!
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WBraun
climber
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Lot's of ice to be climbed right now.
It's everywhere here right NOW.
Instead the stupor topo people are talking about the past .....
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NorCalHutch
Ice climber
NorCal
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Some pictures from yesterday. It was great to meet you Mike and Sarah and thanks for sharing the climb!
Something epic going down on the Tears this morning....
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nice!
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Stewart Johnson
Social climber
lake forest
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Thanks for the info !
85 degrees here in Belize...
Nice to see the ice back in!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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I sent an email about this thread to some bad ass CO mixed and ice climbers, suggesting that they make a trip to Yo. Does anyone know when it will warm up and melt?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Deleted based on ducky input.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Damn!!!! Stuff around glacier point looks WILD!!
Any other tacoers around the valley now? Want to meet up?
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Glad to see it got done.
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fosburg
climber
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I talked to someone about ice climbing in Yosemite about 25 years ago who said he onsight soloed Widow's Tears on Christmas Day one year.
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WBraun
climber
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Temperature is climbing above freezing today.
Ice can and may break and fall off now.
Extreme caution is advised .....
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Beautiful winter Valley
Looks like Werner has the stats. I'm just going by feel and it's COLD (but then I'm not gonna ice climb).
Susan
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WBraun
climber
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Click to resize larger and you'll see the temps have been rising above freezing and now may cause unstable ice.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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werner is right to caution
also remember the rather dramatic temperature differences as you get off the floor of the Valley, temps usually go up as you rise above the floor.
but there are so many different "micro climates" depending on lots of different factors there is no one "rule" to follow
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I'd like to caution anyone trying to climb ice in yosemite from doing so in the next days. Yesterday, my friends and I tried to climb even though it seemed a bit too warm and the line we attempted was thin. To make a long story short after a difficult and heady pitch a friend led, I was having a hard time finding screw placements I could trust to even weight and was getting hosed by the dripping water. After a bunch of contemplation, I left a screw and bailed to the safe belay stance below an overhang. Only a minute later an ice fall/avalanche swept the wall directly from above. If I was out there placing sh#t gear and leading I'd be screwed. Maybe not, as the wall was fairly vertical.but when we got down and ran away from the wall, while we packed our bags a smaller slide swept the face again and we literally were pushed back by the force. I had enough time to be shocked, take out my phone, unlock it and take a few photos of the aftermath. SO, MY ADVICE, DON'T CLIMB ICE AFTER TODAY. THE TEMPERATURES LOOK BAD FOR ANY TO BE REASONABLY SAFE.
After majority of the second slide passed:
Some chunks of ice after the slide
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rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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To not pay attention to the warnings about unstable ice then issue your own warning.....did we learn something ??
That's called learning the hard way and I've done it many times when I was younger, with ice and lightening/weather.
Really glad you are ok cuz that would have cut off 85% of the trip reports.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Ignore the warnings written when we were climbing? Werner posted his first warning at 8:30am on the 2nd of January. That is exactly when we were there. Sorry I did not have the supertopo opened. :) It was not as cold as it was the day prior, but before we started it got colder than before and begun to snow briefly. Quickly changed as I was leading the second pitch and we bailed. Than the avalanche.
I issue my warning for today (I am gym climbing today) and later on. Multiple people saw I and a few parties climbed the widow's tears and asked me to go climb it with them the following weekend. Many people do not look at temperatures and don't understand how different the conditions in Yosemite Valley could be compared to Lee Vining. It is completely different game with temperatures changing in course of hours. Could make or break the climb, literally. Whole point of my 'warning' was to keep people that check the thread and think it is safe to climb things for the next week, safe. That's it. No harm in throwing an example that illustrates the dangers of pushing it right? It is not always about the success. Sometimes being safe is the thing that matters more than the climb.
My post is to encourage people to stay safe and aside from the readings that were not optimal in the morning I saw no warnings in internet threads.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Yesterday, my friends and I tried to climb even though it seemed a bit too warm and hye line was real thin.
and aside from the readings that were not optimal in the morning I saw no warnings in internet threads.
Sounds like classic human factors at play. Specifically cognitive illusion, goal blindness or loss aversion.
Get some education so you don't get killed, sparky.
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climbingcoastie
Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
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Didn't you post this on MP 3 days ago???
"It was a day or two ago. Based on current temps everyone who goes up it in the near future, is gonna f**king die! Unless you are half way up right now!"
Were you just trying to keep people out of your way?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Also, I am wondering if anyone has taken photos of me climbing on Friday the 1st of January?
I was daydreaming about soloing a route like the Widow's Tears for a while, but only daydreaming as I usually have friends to climb with. Because it was the Holidays and the window to climb the route was so tiny and iffy, I had trouble finding the partner to do it with. Two guys I knew were gonna try it Saturday (2nd), but still hesitant a bit due to situation at home and temps that did not look great. We all thought the perfect day was Thursday (when two parties did it) or maybe Friday. I had the Friday off and instead of partying all night, drove to the park, woke up early and hiked up to the base. My point was to check where the trail is, stash the rope and screws at the base and check if the ice looks climbable for our comfort level. I told one of my climbing partners that I have thought of soloing the route, but likely will only check it out and stash the gear. When I got to the base, my mind was clear and I was confident. There was no one on the route above or approaching below. I stood there in solitude full of excitement about finally getting a chance to climb the route. So I started to climb. Midway up, when I was climbing through one of the steeper sustained spots I piece of ice dinged me in the nose and blood started dripping onto the ice. I was able to keep it together and only pay attention to the task at hand, which was to climb, rest when I could and not get pumped at all cost.
As one could come up with all sort of nonsense reasons to why I did it; I did it because I REALLY wanted to climb the route and I was daydreaming of soloing something like this for a long time. I was not suicidal or accepting death as a very likely outcome, even though I would be totally ignorant if I said it was not risky. Climbing a waterfall like this onsight, without knowing what I will find up above, in conditions that seemed barely doable, without taking a rap line which could be used as an option to bail, IS risky. I did take a few screws and slings along, so that it could give me an option to make an anchor and suffer for a night while hoping someone will climb the route the next day. And a cell phone so that I could call the SAR if I totally freak out. Lucky for me, I avoided freaking out or blowing my onsight, which is not an option when free soloing. :) Climbing in general is risky and I do not feel like debating my choice with anyone here. If you want, ask me in person or email me the questions. I exclusively climb with partners and do not solo. It was not supposed to be an example or a statement. I did it purely because I wanted to finally climb the freaking route! If you don't believe me, check this thread. I probably have posted the most comments here. :) So I am excited that the day went well, I climbed the route fairly quickly, even though I was not trying to go for speed. I took like a hundred photos with my phone and took lengthy rests on ledges so that I am rested for sustained climbing ahead. Because how long is the question that was already asked by several people, my photo stamps suggest a little under 2 hours and 40 minutes maybe? I took my last photos before climbing at 8:15am and first photos from the rim at 10:55am. As I was not at all paying attention to how long I waited before beginning to climb after the last photo was taken, or how long was my 'moment' on top before taking the first shot of the ice below, I do not want to make any false claims, as I personally, again, did not care about speed, or being the first person to solo the route. My only point was TO CLIMB THE WT FINALLY. As safely as possible, take pictures, have fun and be as calm as I can. If there was a party that showed up at the base as I was thinking about my course of actions, I would be happy to join them on a climb, even if they said I have to follow all the pitches. I am no ice bad-ass, so if someone wants to go for speed, I bet it could be SIMUL-CLIMBED by the GOOD people in under that time!
Anyway, I will post a report with photos later, as usual, post a few now, AND WOULD LOVE TO SEE ANY of me from the Valley, if anyone took some. Please, post up or email me the originals! xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com
I would advise against attempting the route now due to the elevated temps, as for the post above. Although, I am not in the Valley any longer, and have no idea what is REALLY going on there at the moment. NOAA does not suggest great conditions for climbing. :(
The route itself is really COOL and LONG. I am super excited that I finally had my chance to climb it.
Were you just trying to keep people out of your way?
Yes. On MP I post as an unidentified individual. Everyone should use their own assessment while climbing. The statement was not a serious one. :)
If you wanna solo the tears, bring a selfie stick brah! Would come in handy!!
Close to the top and ice is GOOOOD here!
Skipping the NY eve party to tick one of the coolest ice routes in the world...PRICELESS!
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Stewart Johnson
Social climber
lake forest
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It might've been me that you met all those years ago Kevin but it was the silver strand that I soloed not the widows tears. January 1988 to be sure ,was in good nick, and the climbing
Straightforward.
Nevertheless even though it was quite locked up and
Chilly when I began by the time I topped out the ice was mush.
And the snowpack was horrendous
When I returned to the base soaking wet and looked up
A large hole had appeared and water was
Shooting out.
"F*#k this place for ice,
Too dangerous" I thought .
I had been lucky but and vowed
Too never
Climb ice here if warming temps
Are predicted
Now we have exellent forecasts
Which will tell you when this will occur
Please use them Vitalspray
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Interesting.
Humility encourages longevity.
If you bother to look at the photo I posted, you might notice the first stage of Avalanche knowledge is "Don't know that you don't know."
Whether you asess your mistakes and learn from them, that's your call. Sometimes an ego has to be set aside before you can start sincerely educating yourself.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Good job, Vitaliy.
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fosburg
climber
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Fantastic effort Vitaliy M.!
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WBraun
climber
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A valley local free soloed it yesterday.
That makes two free solos of Widows tears in the last few days.
Way to go men .....
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Hell yeah Vitaliy.. Stoked for you man. Super rad!!
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Stewart Johnson
Social climber
lake forest
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Jay Smith and Craig Reason
Soloed the Widows Tears in 1985
I believe
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fosburg
climber
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And thumbs up to the "Valley Local"!
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F
climber
away from the ground
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If you don't spray about it on Facebook, or Supertopo, within a week, It never happened......
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Awesome Vitaly! And also congrats to the other soloist(and successful summiters!). I hope I never hear the news of someone being on a Yosemite ice route when it collapses. In retrospect Kev and I were very lucky on the FA. I hope the ice comes in again in the next two months...there are some amazing new possibilities out there. What was that you were attempting to climb Vitaly?
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fosburg
climber
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You guys were visionary Mark
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Fosburg!
I thought you and Walt really carried the torch there for a few years. Complete Sentinal Falls...how awesome is that! As you know in the right conditions there are some amazing new possibilities. Can't wait till they get done!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Nice send(s) fellers!
Hearing about ephemeral Valley Ice getting ticked always gets me stoked for adventure. Way to get out there and go big and cold. Proud.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Burchy- That was 10 years ago. It never happened.
My post directed at V was meant to indicate that some Avalanche education, specifically on human factors, might save his life. Some people don't take kindly to suggestions like that. It's hard to divorce yourself from your ego and realize your own ignorance, trust me, I've been there. I sincerely hope he can look back on his formative years and say, "Man, I did some stupid sh#t back in the day, I'm glad I'm still alive and am making an effort to be more knowledgeable about traveling and climbing in mountains."
I wish someone had encouraged me to research human factors in avalanches years ago, it would have saved me from some serious injuries and a few true near death experiences.
Props for doing a climb. But positive reinforcement is also a human factor issue in the mountains. If all you hear is praise, and nobody kindly points out some wisdom you should acquire, it reinforces poor judgment indirectly.
XOXOXO YAY!!!
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WBraun
climber
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Oh cry us a river F
We all did stoopid sh!t daily.
I lived and climbed with some of the craziest m'fokers ever.
Some lived and some didn't .......
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sometimes an ego has to be set aside before you can start sincerely educating yourself.
or posting online.
My post directed at V was meant to indicate that some Avalanche education, specifically on human factors, might save his life.
maybe i dunno email him or sumthin instead o' callin' him out or sumthin???
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F
climber
away from the ground
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That's right. Some live and some don't, I'd like to see V live.
I've watched a lot of mountain folks through their formative years. I've noticed patterns in the process. A lot of young strong folks "bounce" when they start pushing it out there. Some learn, some don't. Some die and some don't. I'm just offering advice on how to avoid avoidable hazards by being educated. Like I said, I wish I had some wisdom passed on to me the easy way instead of the hard way.
Peace.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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I think you missed the irony in my post Burchy. It happened. Ten years ago. I only got around to spraying about it now.... Ergo - it never happened.
GD - It's hard to divorce yourself from your ego and realize your own ignorance, trust me, I've been there. I
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Hell yeah. Great job Vitaly. Is it the longest in the lower 48? I have seen some pretty long looking ones in MT. I have seen pictures of really big routes in Glacier. Let's here some MT people chime in here. Those upper pitches look awesome.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Yep, the human factor... And how it influences our decision making in the mountains. I'm sure you've studied it, in the Avalanche education you've taken, right Burchy?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Yes, I have to say it is really impressive that the route got done back in the late 1970s and the party had so much will power to bivy twice on it in winter. When you guys were topping out the grins must of been giant.
With the right conditions, the valley could be such a Disneyland for ice climbers...I wish the temperatures were colder on average in winter. Imagine having some of the best access to bigwalls AND to LONG ice routes in one park!? In the same time, it is nice to have these occasional spells so that people who frequent the area can get mega excited for something different. This three day window was the first time the Tears were climbable in 3 years! Congratulations to the other guy who has free soloed it too. Glad he was safe! And is climbing with ice tools and crampons still considered free soloing or were we aid climbing? ;)
Sometimes an ego has to be set aside before you can start sincerely educating yourself. Props for doing a climb. But positive reinforcement is also a human factor issue in the mountains. If all you hear is praise, and nobody kindly points out some wisdom you should acquire, it reinforces poor judgment indirectly.
Hey F, if you have a personal problem with me, I'd be happy to get to know you some time in person. Usually, people get along better face to face and you can see for yourself if I do have an issue with my ego or not. I shared my story as an example of what could potentially happen when you push it with the temps. Neither my friends or I wanted it to happen, obviously, but it did. We learned a lesson that day. I did not share it in a PROUD OF MY BADASS EXTREME EXPERIENCE ALMOST GETTING WHOPPED! context, but into look what could have happened if we bailed a few minutes later context, no? Similar ice fall slide could have hurt anyone on the tears that day, are you gonna go after them too because they chose to climb (one did so unroped) on the day with rising temps? Don't you think I had to step over my ego in order to share my screw up in a public forum? The whole point was to encourage safety, that's all. If you have something that bothers you about me in particular, email me and we can have a normal, private conversation. Same goes for anyone else...these childish passive aggressive remarks are fairly lame.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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i don't have a problem with you, V. In fact I think you have a lot of potential that I don't want to see snuffed. That's why I offered the advice sincerely. If you, or Burchy, want to get puffed up about someone suggesting that Avalanche education is a good idea for anyone who recreates in the mountains, then you haven't divorced yourself from your ego yet. You'd be asking for suggestions on where to get said education instead if you had.
I saw myself go through the process. It took me longer than it should go divorce my ego and get schooled. I almost didn't make it. Like I said before, I'd like to see your potential realized. I wish someone had said those very words to me at one time.
Burchy- if 3 seconds on the Google is all the research you've done into human factors in avalanches, I'd suggest an AVY 1 course for you too.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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So are you asking where to take an AVY 1 class Burchy? Or just trying to one up someone offering hard earned wisdom?
I could google it for you, but I'm not sure where the closest Avalanche education classes are to your location.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I am no pro, but i have read a book about snow travel before climbing in Peru. Also, to prove the rumors of me having an inflated ego, I want to point out, I have a photo of myself up on my wall. That's before I conquered the top of the lower 48 bro :))
now can we please stop this discussion in a thread about yosemite ice? It is completely off topic.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Burchy, you seem to think I was mocking V. I wasn't. My comment was about the anonymous local. The facetiousness was directed at our culture, not V. Like I said, a few times already...... I think V has potential, and it would be a shame to see him snuffed by an easily avoidable hazard.
V- That book is a good start, but I would really, really reccomend an AVY 1 class. And after that, a continuing education, focusing on human factor and decision making. I'll even split the cost of the class with you if you are willing to go to it, with an open "beginners mind".
Cheers V.
Burchy.... Well good luck out there. Because without knowledge and education, all you have is luck.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Duck for the Oyster, Hinky Dinky Parle Vous, and Irish Washerwoman.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Bravo V!
had a chance to go out today but I was already occupied... and it seems it wouldn't have been the best day...
thinking that next year I should just spend 2 weeks in the Valley from around this time for the brief window...
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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One can never be in total control ,
With real estate looming above.
Always warmer up top.
Soloing might be the safest way.
Congrats on a great climb vital and
To the other soloist also!
It would be awesome if it would just lock
Up and freeze in Yosemite ,
Always warming up it seems,
Just something like a squirrel
Jumping off a branch can trigger
A slide that will find its way to
The bottom .
I'm hoping for another freeze!
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SweetCrimp
Big Wall climber
Bay Area
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My girlfriend and I watched a party of three climbing the route Saturday. When did the soloist climb it? Now I feel like we missed out on something special.
Sorry, no photos. Congrats to all. Climbing the route is impressive. Looked thin to us, how was the climbing?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Good Lord Burch; give it a rest.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Well, Burchy you are the Internet forum expert, so I'll take your advice.
After your slide experience, did you feel it would be prudent to aquire formal Avalanche education? Have you ever taken a formal Avalanche class? Or do you just know everything about internetting and snow safety inherently due to your superiority to the known universe?
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Yay Vitaliy!!! Know when to hold 'em and when to fold 'em!!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Burchy, you seem to think I was mocking V. I wasn't. My comment was about the anonymous local. The facetiousness was directed at our culture, not V.
Oh you shouldn't be worried about the lack of spray from the anonymous local. I heard of the event from two different people same day it went down. Yesterday, I heard about it from three people, two of which don't even know the guy. Obviously Werner knows who he is, so does D2R2. Spray can come in different forms, but will produce a similar result in the long run. Actually, a different result, as the lack of info leads to the audience to add their own twist to the story when they pass it on to own friends. Was interesting to hear about it from people who didn't know the story and hearing it from one of the guys who were on the route. :)
The community is not as big as some of you may think. From my experience, bullshit solos like the Red Dihedral and other Sierra classics, do happen and at times the ones that do it, leave the experience for their memories. I personally, mentioned publicly or to friends, only four solos I have done. One was the onsight of Evolution traverse car to car because it was a giant thing for me, other was a new route on Laurel, the Widow's Tears obviously and the Toulumne Triple, because I felt ashamed that I got my date and I lost on the approach to Cathedral peak (after hiking that trail in and out multiple times). Even though I'd classify the triple as a scramble rather than a real solo, I left out the coolest thing about that day, so that is only for me to know :) ...so the other soloing I do is mentioned no where and I don't write about it, nor do I sign the registers when I do it. Usually it happened when I had a day off mid week or did not have someone to climb with in the last few years before 2015. In 2015 I was occupied with other stuff that tired me out without much soloing. And honestly, I really like climbing with good people. When it comes to the BIG solos, it is not sprayed on the forum, it is sprayed about in the magazines. Have you heard of the guy who soloed the Cerro Torre and kept it to himself without anyone knowing? (it is kind of cool that the tears have less ascents than the Cerro Torre, even though the number of climbers here looking to do it is not small) Or did Mugs keep the Cassin solo to himself? Spray, don't spray, solo, don't solo..as someone said, climbing is like jerking off, fun for you but not as fun for others to hear about. I usually like to climb with friends. WT was my first ever solo on ice, an exciting intro. If there was another party at the base willing to climb with me or a friend that was available that day, I wouldn't have done it solo. I did it that way, because I wanted to climb the route...and as I said I did daydream about soloing it. I had the head from other things I have done, and the fitness from hanging on my ice tools with a weighted pack. :) There was a mix of things that led to the climb happening, day I don't regret. One of the best in my life. If a chunk of ice took me out, I got to a thin section that collapsed under my weight or I blew it otherwise, it would be a different story. But in that case, I wouldn't be the one worried about the outcome. :)
V- That book is a good start, but I would really, really reccomend an AVY 1 class. And after that, a continuing education, focusing on human factor and decision making. I'll even split the cost of the class with you if you are willing to go to it, with an open "beginners mind".
Cheers V.
F, you can have your opinion of me, but I DO keep an open mind. I do my best to learn on mistakes that others make, along with those I or my partners make. I begun to HIKE in beginning of 2010, so I do CONSIDER myself somewhat of a noob. I have done a ton of climbing and mountaineering since than, it counts for something, but it IS a short period of time in which it is hard to get things dialed. As the time in the mountains is important to comfort in the environment, the time seeing accidents happen will help one learn how to avoid them. As an example of me keeping my mind open, I will admit that I took a "Push your limits on lead" class in the GYM I go to. Most people wouldn't consider my head to be the weakness, but I think there is always something to learn, even from complete beginners I climb with at times. I also carry a grigri on all the backcountry routes I do now, as it adds safety. I know some trad climbers who frown when grigri is mentioned, as they think it is a gym thing. Whatever, it is a great tool that adds a little more safety to the system. Pass judgement,we all do in some way, but let's keep this thread on topic. It is REALLY cool IMO, and if this side stuff was discussed in a private email, the forum would not be viewed as a circus by many who do monitor it without posting. I personally like to read the stories like the ones Warbler, Chappy and countless others posted, along with the photos and updates. That is where the value is. Burchy and F, I'd be mega stoked if you guys exchanged emails and talked it out. Interpersonal communication is much more enjoyable outside a public forum, where all of our egos are at play in some way, no matter if we admit it to ourselves or not.
My girlfriend and I watched a party of three climbing the route Saturday. When did the soloist climb it? Now I feel like we missed out on something special.
You did not miss out, you saw the soloist :) The full story is interesting. But I will let others spray it. In whatever way they want.
Looked thin to us, how was the climbing?
One of the guys that climbed it Saturday, did it three years ago. If the forum was a bit more civilized maybe he would chime in with the comparison. From what I got, it was thinner this time around. Some spots had really thin ice and I was hitting rock. Not many, but in a few spots I had to trust pure edges where the ice broke off. There were spots of really weird orange cauliflowery stuff and some that were just icicles hanging from good ice above that had to be broken and really searched around for placements. The flow in spots is wide, I am sure ways people took were different. I will write about my experience in the full spray report when I get to it. :)
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Who cares if you solo something? They shouldn't. Soloing has been around since the first human climbed the first peak.
Talking about it or not talking about it is also stupid. Tell all that you want to about it.
I like hearing soloing stories. Some of them are great fun to hear.
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overwatch
climber
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Well written posts from Mr. Warbler and Mr. M. Great job and huge balls on the solo.
vvvvvvv yeah, mine would be sucked up inside me, bear attack style.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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It was more about having the clear mind and concentrating on the present at all times, rather than large balls. Those would likely get in the way. Smaller is better, light and fast! :)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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You would know.
ZING!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sorry to bump the climbing thread again, but I totally forgot to mention...
I recovered a draw on WT. One of the parties likely dropped it. Unless a tourist was walking by and tossed a climbing draw off the rim. :) Send me an email so I can get it back to you! xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Was Trevor Anthes kicking around WT this season? I remember reading a cool report of his a few years ago on it with Kurt Wedberg I think and a few others. Good dude and a great climber.
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Wildincognito
climber
Eastside
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I haven't been back yet this year but might still- it looks great!
That report you speak of was an article I wrote but never found the right place to put it, so for now it just lives on my site. This thread seems like another great place for it to get lost.
Sorry I didn't make it into a proper TR but this was enough work as is.
Enjoy
http://www.wildincognito.com/Trips/CDI/n-B9C7m
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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THANKS for sharing that wildincognito!
SUPER!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Planting the flag indeed!
Nice photos and stories incognito
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Hell yeah bud! that was it. Thanks.
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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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I wonder if people who spray about their solos, need that spray to make them feel worthy?
Is it a psychological advantage for them to spray?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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I don't know about advantage over any existing skill and ability, but there is a raw excitement that wells up in the human spirit that says "Wow, I just did this. I can't hardly believe it. If I can do it, you can too. Now get a look at these and get out there and do something."
If that excitement can be carried forward it can elevate your own game. I don't think that's about self gratification necessarily/perjorative ego. It can be about a shared experience and wanting to keep living it for as long as possible with others that have had that experience.
And if it is a little ego after the fact, big deal. A little ego boost is good for those of us without huge ego.
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david wilson
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Very impressive sends of Widow's Tears - both solo and roped. What a proud line in a great setting up there.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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The problem is his ego is already too big, Munge.
Do you know me personally? Your judgement is based on hearing about what I do online. You don't know my motivations, goals, fears, what I do aside from climbing or my life story. Personally, I value what my friends say, none so far accused me of becoming a d#@&%e. What I do is really irrelevant. It is not 5.15s that I send. Or 14s or 13s. I like to go deep into the Sierra, climb, have fun and share it with others in order to add positive stoke to the community. In the TRs I don't bang my chest and say I do something inf*#kingcredible. It is not. People established routes far harder, far better and far closer to the road. I pick the leftovers. Happy? It is what it is and I do my best to share the mistakes too.
It would be hard to get my ego out of control. As I started to climb more and more, I begun to be exposed to people that climb like beasts, are way more fit and way more efficient than me. I REDPOINT low 5.12 on my best day, if I work the crap out of it. It is nothing to be proud of in the modern world of climbing. Some of my friends do crazy link ups, I can't imagine doing. Some send routes on the Hulk I dream of to follow one day. Some are sending El Cap free. I can't do any of this sh#t, now. But I do what I do and enjoy the climbing in general. So as I said, it is hard to get a giant ego for someone average. I used to have severe asthma most of my life, so being able to get out and do my best is a blessing.
As far as the Bubbs Creek wall. It took me forever to complete it GU, partly because it was hard for me and partly because I was hand drilling. AVERAGE of TWO pitches a day. There were days when I was able to only complete one. When it went up, it had about 60 bolts total or less, way fewer than the Samurai Warrior next door (which has over a hundred). I had fixed lines on the bottom half and added more bolts over time to pitches I worked on TR to free, so that others will have a chance at onsighting. I also bought nice stainless rings for over a 100$ and made the route rapellable from great anchors from like 4/5ths of the way up. I put in close to 1000$ in bolts, plus the rap rings and almost 30 days of work on it. So the final bolt count was close to a 100 because I wanted it to be a climb that others would want to go back on and have a fair chance to onsight. I put a lot of hard work and love into it really. I did get a permit for MOST of the outings to Bubbs. Not all, I will admit. But rangers are there and I did not want to drive for 6 hours one way and be turned around on the hike. I did not get a permit at times because we had a dawn start so that we can climb on the wall that same day after the approach. Ranger stations was closed.
As I say to all others, if you have a personal problem, email me. I'd be happy to meet you face to face, answer your questions, have a fist fight or go climbing. (xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com) It is easy to sh#t on someone, it is much harder to put up a route like the Emperor for others to enjoy or to free solo the Tears onsight without knowing what condition the ice is in. It is the last post I will make on this thread to defend my motivations to post stuff. It is ridiculous. When my trip reports talked about climbs like the Fishhook arete, no one gave a f*#k, no people get uncomfortable.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Biggest petpeve on here is when people trash anyone who "sprays."
That's the best part about supertopo, I want everyone to spray!
Please spray stories and pictures all over this place!
Also, Vitaliy likes to share, don't discourage it because you missunderstand it. If you want everyone else to share their stoke then you share your own. And obviously it's not bad to get a pat on the back every now and then as a side effect :)
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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I met Vitaliy in real life. No ego detected, but his love of climbing was apparent. He's doing things the right way and that's why his TRs are so much appreciated.
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WBraun
climber
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I'd be happy to meet you face to face, answer your questions, have a fist fight or go climbing.
LOL
The thing I thought at time I met Vitaliy was ....
Sh!T .... I wish this guy was around when I was desperately seeking partners and coming up empty hand forced to go free soloing instead years ago.
Vitaliy's got the stoke, drive and the stonemaster vibes .... totally cool dude.
Keep on trukin Vitaliy and fuk idiots like 661climber.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Keep on trukin Vitaliy and fuk idiots like 661climber.
Word. And. Then. Some.
Susan
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Too bad such an epic thread took this turn.
Vitaliy looks like you're gonna have to bust a nut and produce a trip report.
Hopefully the haterz will gravitate there instead of here
;-)
Ballsy solo. A tip of my hat to you bud.
Edit
That's what you get for being a spraylord ;-)
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Thanks for the kind words, didn't expect so much. Sorry the thread about the Yosemite Ice is turning into let's talk sh#t about people who have climbed yosemite ice.
Vitaliy looks like you're gonna have to bust a nut and produce a trip report.
I need time for this experience to settle in.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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It's all Dans fault for not posting more ice pics. Also don't get mad at the droid, he can't help it. I love the picture of that 5.7 hand crack, looks fun.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Vitaly and all other climbers: Keep posting your adventures! I love reading about your climbs, with partners or solo. I love the pics (great stuff wildincognito!)I find it all very inspiring and motivating. To hell with the negativity. Vitaly, I can't wait to read about your experience and who knows we may even climb together one day!
Chappy
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Keep it up Vitaliy, you're fueling the stoke fire for the rest of us.
Haters gonna hate. Brush it off and keep crushing.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Hahaha! Excellent Vitaliy! Patty told me about your solo. You continue to inspire the both of us to just get out there.
Uncontrolled ego is not one of the phrases that come to mind when thinking about him. Nice guy with big vision is more like what I think.
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climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
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Like I said before - congrats. Also like I said before, your motivation is, well, motivating. Personal story. A partner and I planned to climb WT about 10 yrs ago. (I think). I didn't sleep at all the night prior. I called him about 2am to bail, I could hear the sigh of relief over the phone.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sh!T .... I wish this guy was around when I was desperately seeking partners and coming up empty hand forced to go free soloing instead years ago.
Vitaliy's got the stoke, drive and the stonemaster vibes .... totally cool dude.
Keep on trukin Vitaliy and fuk idiots like 661climber.
BAM!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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Werner wanted a belay slave, I see. Seriously I'd be stoked to top rope his warmups if I was around than. Those guys were the real deal when it came to rock craft of North America. Happy to be part of this forum and read about some of the stories. This forum allowed us all to experience the Valley Uprising and than some, before the movie came out.
Thank you all again for kind words, but please stop. It makes me uncomfortable to read all this. All I want now is some time away from the forum. Sick of seeing my name mentioned. I don't want to feel the need to check this thread for nothing else than the ice updates.
Please, move on to talking about ice. What I did was one ascent. I had my fun. Now, let's move on to talking about upcoming cold snaps. At least I hope for more cold snaps. Climbing ice in yosemite could be a real pleasure.
The Sentinel Falls looked really good with the upper pitches mega fat. Will post a photo soon. The bottom had a stream running in the middle. If that stuff freezes, I think it would be a mega outing. Hope it does. Hope to have a partner! :)
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fosburg
climber
|
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How do you like those Cobras V? I sold mine after one season because they'd sometimes shift when choking up onto the secondary handle.
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Vitaliy's an awesome dude. Had an amazing time when I climbed with him. I cant believe people would crap on him just because he talked about a climb he did on a climbing website. That's low even for this place.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Vitaliy,
Thanks for the pics and the stories. I used to do loads of ice climbing and dig the adventure and spirit you show in your posts. When I see the pic of a tool placement in ice, i wonder if it had thad that good secure feeling, or was it sketchy and demanded serious mind control.
Ignore the idiots and spin the yarns, please.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
|
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When Bridwell and myself climbed the
Dream Stream it was perfect ice with
Dry one swing sticks
The next day Jay Smith and Paul Crawford
were pouring water out of their boots!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
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Stewart, what and where is dream stream?
Fosburg, I used to climb on old Grievel light machine tools for a while, so switching to Cobras made the ice climbing way more fun. I hate that shift you are describing as well. While ice cragging in Canada a month ago I tried the Nomics, wow those felt better. IMO cobras are a great alpine/ice tool but if you go after hard mixed, Nomics or something else is the way. If you want to have the best available tool for the job...
Edit: Vitaly, I can't wait to read about your experience and who knows we may even climb together one day!
You, Warbler, Werner and I. Widows Tears 2019. First 4 person team to climb the route! Seriously, would be a blast if we all can climb or hang out. I want to know why am I still flaling on Bircheff Williams and how to do it properly. :)
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fosburg
climber
|
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I've been using Nomics for the last few years with the weights and hammer heads, love 'em.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
|
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V,
Haven't you heard? Don't feed the trolls! :)
Nothing you say will ever be good enough for them. You don't need to explain yourself. Keep sending the gnar, brah! ;)
-Paul
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F
climber
away from the ground
|
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If by friends you mean - climbed with him a few times in Jtree 10 years ago, decided he was a sketchy dude, and haven't seen or heard from him since. Then, um, yeah? You seem like a bitter and angry person Cosmic. Sorry.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
|
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Hey nice send VM...
Don't pay any attention to F. People get a little loony after being stuck in Girdwood for too long.
F - Didn't the high point of your alpine climbing career climax with you being rescued off of Triangle Peak? I could have the wrong guy but I don't think so...
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F
climber
away from the ground
|
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Haha, word up John.
High point was sending double cross!
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
|
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I believe it...
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F
climber
away from the ground
|
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Just trying to help.
Cheers
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WBraun
climber
|
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It's really warm and the snow is slush cement that is falling yesterday and today.
It's wet heavy snow full of moisture.
Ice climbing would be dangerous with deep heavy snow approaches and avalanche danger from above ....
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
|
|
Vitaly,
Here in Oakhurst its raining and seems quite a bit warmer than around a week ago when things were icing up (it snowed here then). There is hope for more ice later this year. Both times I climbed the W.T. was in mid Feb. The second time (Feb 79)it was mega. Tons of snow in the Valley then. I am a little concerned that warmer El Nino storms might mean the end of the ice season. Its nice to have cold northern storms. We shall see.
One must strike when the iron is cold!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
|
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Hey V,
You can do AAIRE level 1 & 2 courses at Lake Tahoe Community College for $68 each, at least that's what it was when I took it a few years ago. Just apply as a regular student and register. No need to send them transcripts tho.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
|
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Vitals,
The Dream Stream is lower Sentnal falls,
about 4 pitches WI 4ish
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
|
|
Thanks Stewart for the great shot of "the bird"
i think i remember Meaty coming in the MR bar bitd with some stellar photos of that day? sure would like to see more?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Can I get a break if I post something others have shared? ;) OP seems intimidated by the tough crowd, but I bet a lot of people here would be happy to see the report.
Here is a great trip report from one of the parties that climbed the Tears day prior to my climb:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/chasing-ice-in-the-valley/111504201
Personally, I am pleased to see that it was not my fear making it seem sketchy in a few spots, the thing was really thin in places...
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Yep Dimitri had some stellar shots but i gave them back to him because of
some snapfest he had.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Your bringing fond memeories back from my days on sar with Dimitri in the old days! too funny.
perhaps i'll see him someday on the streets of bishop and talk him into posting those pics
they are spectacular!
come on Meaty break with the shots?
thanks Vitaliy "Viceman" for putting that link on here. that is a great write up!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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The photo of the Bird on Dream Stream is sweet. Looks like a nice climb.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Cali ice climbers need their Plice
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Best ice climbing in CA is when you load your pack with weight and do dead hangs and lock offs on your tools in the gym. :( Unless some crazy stuff forms once in a blue moon! :)
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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WBraun "Ice climbing would be dangerous with deep heavy snow approaches and avalanche danger from above .... "
Do you think you are going to live forever ?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Flanders, on my first day of ice climbing, I saw you in Lee Vining canyon guiding someone over the new years weekend (winter of 2010-11), I think. It was a miserable cold day to ice climb. We bivied in a tent out in lee vining that night and it was like -20 at night. The following day was even worse weather wise. As I remember my friend and I totally forgot it was the New Year's eve when we went to Mammoth for food, till we saw all the happy people partying. We ate and went back to the tent. Later, I learned about the hotels. :) Sometime following that you had the health issue and the recovery process. Seeing you move over ice at LV and later reading the article about the ascent of WTs you guys did was inspiring. Not sure if I will see you in person, but thanks for all that. :) We certainly will not live forever and Werner has lived with that understanding through most of his youth, from what I have seen. Wish you both health and balance in the new year. Ok, done with the hippie talk for the day...
I heard of a few people who will try the tears on Sunday. One is climbing the SS Saturday supposedly. Hopefully with a wetsuit.. Told them IMO it is risky, not a good idea and to be mega careful if they do get on it, with a super duper early start. For those in the valley, you may have something interesting to witness. To me, looks like a weekend to ski. :)
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Well done Vitaly! Bold, very.
'nuff said.
suggesting that they make a trip to Yo. Does anyone know when it will warm up and melt?
To answer all the questions on this thread about when will the ice be good?
It changes.
Daily
Hourly
If the clouds come over the ice gets warmer and softer......unless it was in the sun and then it gets harder.
That's one of the most interesting things about ice climbing. Your follower might have completely different ice. I mean besides having your holes to tool on.
You drag yourself out of the tent in the morning and it's 2 deg C and you figure fuggedaboud ice today.
Then a cold front comes in about noon and you are really sorry you went skiing.
The ice I've found in the Sierras is highly variable. Much more so than in the Presidential Range although it can change quickly even there.
The weirdest change I've found was on a nice day trudging through deep fresh Sierra Cement to Horsetail Falls (June Lake), I swept the snow off and found very soft ice spurting water with every pick placement. After leading about 15 feet we backed off, had a council of war and went tele skiing. Ya gotta have a backup plan.
Hi "Flanders"
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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One of the best parts about being a terrible ice climber is I am not limited by my strength, only my terribleness, so no need to train yet!
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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D2R2- i put the boards aboot 16 inches apart,seems to be about right
Vitals- i dont climb inside so i need this Canadian Plice at my place,
but not with a pack and no cowbells at the top.
Google: Will Gadd, Plice.
Seems kinda warm down in Yosemite? Its always warming up there..
hi Brian
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ElGreco
Mountain climber
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So long is a typical window for the Tears then? With the exception of Jan2013 when the window was a week or so (and even then, it seems to have separated but then reformed within a week), it seems that it's good for a couple of days.
How long does it take for it to form?
Yeah, ice changes by the hour and you have to use good judgment, but I am trying to see how long it takes for this particular baby to set up and what kind of conditions would merit packing the bags and being ready to drive to the Valley. This recent 2015 cold spell only seems to have been 2-3 days long. In 2013 it was way longer, if I recall. Should we get excited by a couple of days, or does it need a week or more?
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Jan 10, 2016 - 04:19pm PT
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Jan 10, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Jan 10, 2016 - 04:32pm PT
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two of them, late start. there about half way up.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Jan 10, 2016 - 05:54pm PT
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Thats exactly what i was thinking!
they had to break trail to get up there to the start, and they will have to break thick trail off the top for a couple/few hours
big day
way to go after it guys!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2016 - 07:40pm PT
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George, with the photos posted here frequently, you can see how well formed the route is. Than you check the temperatures in the valley and decide if you want to climb a giant waterfall in those temps. At the moment, I'd be cautious. Very early start maybe? But still, higher chance of ice fall. Every person gets to choose their acceptable level of risk...
Breaking trail to the base is no big deal..but finding a way off that thing in the dark will be a real adventure. I wonder if they work tomorrow...go Aivaras and Travis!
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 10, 2016 - 08:04pm PT
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The temps are above freezing right now.
It's warm outside ...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 10, 2016 - 08:17pm PT
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That sh#t looks so awesome.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Jan 10, 2016 - 11:07pm PT
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Thanks Burch
yes Werner it is to warm to be ice climbing here! (don't go up there!)
i was surprised to see the routes intact, then to see guys up there!
it is one of the biggest adventures on the planet!
good luck to you guys! and may your headlamps be bright!
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 11, 2016 - 01:25pm PT
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I just saw this as I've been real busy all morning.
I'll go down and look right now.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 11, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
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Great shots, thanks for sharing.
Crazy to think that we get liveblogging ascents of Widows Tears. My my my technology has come a long way.
I'm hoping (assuming?) those bad asses are on their way off for a brew.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 11, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
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YES. ALL GOOD.
they got lost in the dark hiking down..
Conditions update "Really bad ice except the last two pitches."
I guess nothing really changed since a week ago! :)
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 11, 2016 - 04:05pm PT
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I went, I saw and returned to find everything resolved ......
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 11, 2016 - 05:39pm PT
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Thank you so much for the attention! Was happy to hear from them. Kind of late though...2pm.
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acidbreez
climber
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Jan 12, 2016 - 04:12pm PT
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Dan, thanks for the photos and kind words. Ice is in bad shape until the last two pitches. 13 cm screws would go in about 2/3 in some spots. Glad we took a set of cams; leading to some rock and trying to dig out a crack for belay. That hike down did take forever :)
Aivaras
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Jan 12, 2016 - 04:53pm PT
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thanks for the info Aivaras
brings back fond memories of how at the top we had to cut away the lead ropes off our harnesses with a knife, as they were frozen solid 15mm or so of solid ice from being wet all day then freezing. could'nt possible untie them!
then the hike down at night!
we would go about a half hour or so trading off breaking thick, heavy trail. then collapse into the snow for a little nap!
however after about 15 minutes or so we would start to shiverin' and be forced to carry on
makes for everlasting memories yes?
good job guys!!!
was very happy when i heard you made it down
way to getter done!
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acidbreez
climber
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Jan 12, 2016 - 05:52pm PT
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I was pretty damn close to cutting that rope off too :)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 14, 2016 - 09:47am PT
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He'll probably get mad at me for posting something else about him on the ice thread, I just think it's a hilarious picture to headline an article. Quotes seem to be from this thread.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2016 - 11:58am PT
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Burchy, on this thread fosberg, said someone from Tahoe told him they soloed it 25 years ago. Stewart Johnson, replied saying it was likely him, but he soloed the SS. He added Jay Smith and a friend could have done it. I emailed Jay about it, he said they did it roped, but possibly another guy could have, but he is not sure how much did that guy self belay or what. I am not a detective, but I did my best to find as much as possible and to avoid false claims. All I cared about is climbing the route. Didn't know if it was gonna be the first, second or third FS of it, or if I could find a party at the base I would be psyched too. Did not claim it was THE first without a doubt, I asked for it to be more general in the article, as it could have been done. Bill McConcache (BMcC on ST - he did the 10th ascent) keeps a record of parties who climb it and according to him he knows of no other solos. Could have or not, the experience would be the same for me or anyone who COULD have done it before me, or after me in fact. I think the Alpinist does a great job with the article, mentioning the history, other parties, the correct length of the climb (finally someone!) and in general a great article that does the route justice. Hope you guys like it, I think Chris did a great job here:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16a/newswire-recent-activity-on-big-yosemite-ice-route
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2016 - 02:42pm PT
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Walleye and everyone, you may find this article about Peter fairly cool: http://sustainableplay.com/the-natural-profile-of-peter-mayfield/
Talks about soloing the silver strand, other soloing in the sierra and his life. Mentions the supertopo too! :) Came across it a while back while researching the history of ice climbs in Yosemite Valley. Glad I remembered it..
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
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Jan 14, 2016 - 05:34pm PT
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hahaha! awesome! also: great work, Darling :) just don't do that too often or i'll wring my hands and fret
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fosburg
climber
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Jan 14, 2016 - 08:12pm PT
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Yea, too bad I can't remember that guy's name. He definitely told me he soloed the Widow's Tears, not Silver Strand. That grade of ice has been routinely soloed over the last 30 years.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2016 - 08:40pm PT
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fosburg
climber
Jan 14, 2016 - 08:12pm PTYea, too bad I can't remember that guy's name. He definitely told me he soloed the Widow's Tears, not Silver Strand. That grade of ice has been routinely soloed over the last 30 years.
I thought you said from Tahoe, than Stewart clarified it was him on the strand, earlier in the thread. I made sure to say first documented. I don't doubt it could have been soloed. Wi5 is not the big deal, it is being in yosemite in the right time...no supertopo aside from the last few years. Haha. Anyway, I would only be stoked to hear a story of another free solo long time ago. Neither that other guy, nor I are influenced by ascents of the other guy. Both did it in different times, in different conditions and walked away to tell about it. All that matters really..hope if he sees these reports he could message the people in the Alpinist or Climbing and tell own story, if he/she chooses to.
D2R2, according to info I have, Dean did do the WT, but roped. Probably didn't really matter to him. He has soled stuff that is wayy wayyyyyy harder.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Jan 14, 2016 - 09:22pm PT
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Proud Climb Vitals!
Nothing like Canada to make Cali ice
Seem soloable eh?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
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We should climb in Tahoe sometime soon SJ! A friend and I may go to Lee Vining/tahoe next week, I will do my best to tell Brian what we end up doing, so maybe we can all climb or hang out. Still want to hear the full story on Everest and the Phantom Wall on Huntington...
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JohnnyG
climber
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Jan 15, 2016 - 07:34am PT
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That's the only time I've enjoyed helmet cam footage of climbing. (looking at the video on alpinist.com)
My video paused right when you grab the slanting hold with your gloved hand, and I was thinking "take off the glove!"
nice job. looked like a sweet day!
fun to pontificate and investigate about who has done it in the past, but I don't think we will ever be satisfied with the answer, nor is it very relevant. Unless a climb is picked out by recent ascents, previous ascents are almost irrelevant. the ice changes so much from day to day, year to year. Every ascent is you own personal experience.
Ice climbs and solos are so personal and fleeting by nature
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Jan 15, 2016 - 02:32pm PT
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Sounds good vitals; stormy period next week with snow levels above lake
level= sierra cement= good ice after things lock up!
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gregfromvermont
climber
Yosemite
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Jan 15, 2016 - 07:25pm PT
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Paul Crawford, who has soloed Silver Strand and Sentinel Falls just told me that a guy named Pat Horne soloed the Tears in the late 80's. He said Walt Shipley watched it go down and proclaimed it to be the most badass solo to date.
When I climbed the Tears in 2012 I talked to Jay Smith right after my ascent to gather info about the route. He said it had had at least one or more solos by guys who didn't say much about what they did.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Jan 15, 2016 - 07:37pm PT
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With leashes?! No spray?! Crazy!!! Is that even legal?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 15, 2016 - 08:03pm PT
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That's the name Jay mentioned in the email to me! He said he doesn't know if he was self belaying a few sections or not. Tried to Google him, but couldn't find anything. Would be awesome to track him down and hear the full story. No matter if he belayed or didn't that is simply bad ass to solo WTs in late 80s! Does anyone know much about him in general? If he soloed the tears back than, I bet he has done some impressive stuff all over the place?!
Spray or don't spray. Seems like every party that climbed it this year has photos or trip reports up somewhere. Who cares, it is climbing...share or keep it to yourself, it is not that important in the grand scheme. :)
Paul Crawford, who has soloed Silver Strand and Sentinel Falls
Like the full sentinel falls with yabo tooth and all?! Paul is known for a lot of new routes in Tahoe area and all around the state. I know he has a super hard route on Middle Cathedral and as I remember he was close to fee climbing the grand illusion a few years ago!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 27, 2016 - 09:51pm PT
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Yo Kevin, grab Chappy and do some repeats. With today's tools you guys won't have to pull a rope out of the moth bin.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 28, 2016 - 07:28am PT
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Go check out this hidden line! ST needs some mystery dream material
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Dec 28, 2016 - 07:49am PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 28, 2016 - 08:31am PT
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I'd love to Kevin but, alas, I'm taking my tools down to Patagonia on Saturday to have a go at San Lorenzo with Jay Smith.
If we are successful perhaps we'll name the route...."Old Pardners."
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 28, 2016 - 08:49am PT
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Do you have certified carbon dating on those items T. H.?
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Dec 28, 2016 - 08:56am PT
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Will Lowa Alpspitz in size 12 work?
The best boot that I ever owned.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 28, 2016 - 09:09am PT
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Do you have certified carbon dating on those items T. H.?
carbon dating is possible to only 50,000 years ago...
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Dec 28, 2016 - 09:52am PT
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That's a wonderful pink, aqua and purple ensemble.
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NorCalHutch
Ice climber
NorCal
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Quite a few people talking about Silver Strand being fat and even Widows Tears starting to make an apperience. I've only heard through the grapevine and not directly from anyone who has had eyes on it. Anyone ...???
Any help info would be greatly appreciated!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Yosemite Ice,
you have to be there....
otherwise, by the time you hear about it, it's gone!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Climbed the tears a few days ago. Was good shit! A friend and his partner are supposed to be on it now.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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seems like it will be good for a few more days, but looks like it's gonna start warming up.
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NorCalHutch
Ice climber
NorCal
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Thanks V, that's the info I was looking for. At least for Silver Strand.
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hamik
Mountain climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 10, 2019 - 11:51am PT
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So how are things lookin'? Asking for a friend
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chick_on_ice
Trad climber
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Feb 12, 2019 - 08:57pm PT
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Also interested. Anyone have eyes on Widow's or Silver Strand? I'm tired of flying to Montana and Canada every weekend.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Feb 18, 2019 - 07:27am PT
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It's pretty icy today.
Supposed to drop down below 20 degrees tonight.
FYI.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 18, 2019 - 07:31am PT
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It's 15 degrees F.
The approach will be epic swimming uphill in record-breaking deep snow with potential snow avalanches inside the tears amphitheater .....
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 18, 2019 - 08:25am PT
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hamik
Mountain climber
Manhattan Beach, CA
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Feb 18, 2019 - 10:30am PT
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Could anyone snag a pic of the amphitheater today??
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 18, 2019 - 11:03am PT
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Get on it....you can’t let this rare occurrence pass. Chappy and Kevin showed that there is more to Yosemite than granite and over priced pizza.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Feb 18, 2019 - 11:12am PT
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here's WT from 10 days ago for some stoke purposes. the deep snow was real deal. i can't imagine how deep it is now. best option would be to ski to the base and rap the route. however there wasn't enough good ice to rap when we did it...
And unfortunately, as of yesterday, SS and WT were both fully collapsed. Temps are lookin good tho!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 18, 2019 - 11:46am PT
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Proper effort! So how did you get down? Jump?
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Feb 18, 2019 - 12:56pm PT
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f*#k yeah!
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Feb 22, 2019 - 12:09pm PT
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shylock -
Congrats on climbing the Widows Tears!
Those are nice pics you posted from 2/8/19. Please post more from your WT climb, if you've got them.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Feb 22, 2019 - 01:30pm PT
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Nice work Shylock! Proud send. We want more photos. More more more more. Gimme gimme gimme!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 22, 2019 - 02:15pm PT
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Good on you!
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Feb 22, 2019 - 08:58pm PT
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2/21/19
It was great but temps increasing. Probably be bad soon
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Feb 23, 2019 - 12:08am PT
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Feb 23, 2019 - 12:16am PT
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Feb 23, 2019 - 12:36am PT
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If anyone has more recent pictures (than 2/12/19) of the Silver Strand and/or Widows Tears, please post them. Thanks!
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Feb 23, 2019 - 10:31am PT
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as you wish..
How about some sentinel falls photos?? hope folks are gettin some this weekend. if they're there now, looks like they're not long for this world..
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chappy
Social climber
oakhurst
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Feb 23, 2019 - 05:46pm PT
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Good job Shylock! Looked liked pretty icey dicey conditions. I cant help but get a little stoked every winter when it comes into condition. It was just such an adventure for Kev and I BITD. Six times on the approach before we squeaked out our ascent under very dicey conditions. I did it again in 78...another very snowy winter...with Ed Barry. Perfect mega ice the second time around. I do remember groveling up to my armpits on the approach!
Chappy
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mcd
Trad climber
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Feb 26, 2019 - 02:17pm PT
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The Tears are still Fat despite the warm temps. This shot from an hour ago, two climbers making fast progress as the walls on either side are shedding ice at a fast rate
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mcd
Trad climber
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Feb 26, 2019 - 02:40pm PT
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Feb 26, 2019 - 03:00pm PT
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That looks damn good!
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mcd
Trad climber
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Feb 26, 2019 - 04:41pm PT
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These guys should be toppin' out about now if conditions would allow?
2/26/19
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Feb 26, 2019 - 06:54pm PT
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Awesome, thanks for the update! Hope God helps those souls on the descent right now.. and thanks for chining in Chappy! You guys were way beyond us
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Feb 27, 2019 - 02:52pm PT
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wondering how it went for those guys/gals?
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fosburg
climber
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Feb 27, 2019 - 06:22pm PT
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How's it looking Dan?
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mcd
Trad climber
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Feb 27, 2019 - 07:25pm PT
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Hey Kev!
its been quite warm and rained a fair bit today in valley. was cloudy so could not take any photos of the ice today. suspect big chunks of the route will be coming off in the next few days?
it is thicker and wider than ive ever seen it though, so its possible it could last til the next cool down?
will try for more pics tmrw?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Luke
Let us know!