Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 49 of total 49 in this topic |
jack herer
climber
chico, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 15, 2006 - 06:02am PT
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looking for info on this area, any one have and pictures? topos? first hand accounts? all I know is its hard to find, and there is the pan am route and the girrafe, thats it.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Mar 15, 2006 - 10:08am PT
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Shano
Social climber
Pacific Beach, CA
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Mar 15, 2006 - 11:54am PT
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my friend Brian and I just returned from Canon Tajo/Laguna Hansen area - totally snowed in up there. We came up from the 3 and got as far as R. San Luis before we turned around by drifts.
We also tried Picacho del Diablo; got turned around before we even got to the park entrance. Not often getting snowed out in Baja...
-s
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climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 15, 2006 - 02:29pm PT
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Picacho del Diablo is an amazing and wild looking place. There's a 5.moderate traverse that goes for at least half a mile. haven't done it but would like to someday. from top of Picacho del Diablo you can see pacific ocean off in distance on one side, and sea of cortez on the other side.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2006 - 11:32pm PT
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Some Place Near Mission Gorge...
Looks, well..
BeedWhacker and E.
Pan Am Route, of Mission Gorge.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2006 - 11:38pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2006 - 11:40pm PT
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Mar 15, 2006 - 11:48pm PT
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Love your old pics Tarbuster, keep 'em coming.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 15, 2006 - 11:54pm PT
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kickin' it at the big bivvy ledge on the happy hooker, spring '77, off white photo:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 16, 2006 - 12:16am PT
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Man, you look better sittin' down than any man alive.
Thats a Talent.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 16, 2006 - 12:26am PT
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Hey this is good stuff, I like that stem shot above long run out.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 16, 2006 - 12:31am PT
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Thats the first pitch.
We drew straws at the base for the pitches and I got the first and Brown Dihedral. They were good ones. 1st pitch had some easy hooking.
'78
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 16, 2006 - 12:35am PT
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Where is the nearest water, ie, how are the water logistics there?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 16, 2006 - 12:47am PT
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Chop Wood.
Carry Water.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Mar 16, 2006 - 12:49am PT
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One of BVB's old well earned nicknames was The Prince Of Prone
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 16, 2006 - 12:57am PT
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Chop wood
Carry water
Yes Master
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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Mar 16, 2006 - 01:00am PT
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Wow man Tard, that pic of your floppy hair bro leadin' the lieback flake thing is crazy cause it looks like he's about to have to mantle into that wicked shrubbery.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 16, 2006 - 10:26am PT
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This Guy?
That's Eric Erickson: "Springs"
Here he is, not mantling the bush as surmised,
but, performing an equally untoward maneuver higher on the Wall.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Mar 16, 2006 - 02:40pm PT
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Have you been here? http://guadalupe-canyon.com/
A bit of paradise. My wife and I hung out for a couple nights over New Years a few years back. There's plenty of potential for multi-pitch routes up the canyon, then stumble to the tubs.
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Shano
Social climber
Pacific Beach, CA
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Mar 16, 2006 - 07:07pm PT
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I made my first visit to C. Guadalupe in Feb.
A couple moderate bolted routes at the first waterfall up canyon make for a nice morning before getting to the serious work in the hot tubs.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 16, 2006 - 09:56pm PT
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Guadalupe sounds-looks nice.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 16, 2006 - 11:00pm PT
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Now that we have beer,
Let's go do a new route at the Throne, Bra.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 12:28am PT
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Somewhere on the Stonemaster thread, sewellymon and bvb asked me about a *fire* started at the base of a new route in BAJA.
this is the route.
Wall of Voodo, on the Moonflower Butress.
Down by the Throne.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 01:26am PT
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This is the Brother Bob Gaines.
'82
starting up.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 01:30am PT
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This 2 pitch corner was scoped and climbed by michael paul in the seventies.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 01:38am PT
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In 1981 Mike and I were viewing "Tron"
At the Theater. 'Was a Sci Fi.
He told me again about a route in mexico on his "the one that coulda got away" list.
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Ouch!
climber
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Mar 17, 2006 - 01:39am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 01:41am PT
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That's Terrific!
Ouch!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 17, 2006 - 01:42am PT
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"I fell in to a burning ring of fire."
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 01:58am PT
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I went down down down
till the flames got higher
and it burns burns burns
that ring 'o fii-yer
that ring 'o fire.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 02:05am PT
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move left man.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 17, 2006 - 02:10am PT
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teh taste of love is sweet...
june carter cash, rip.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 02:23am PT
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beebs'whats up?
"when eyes, like ours meet..."
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 02:33am PT
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So,
After the descent and 3rd pitch,
We Fixed half a pitch and bivied.
Hey, it was the '80's
You Know, Flock of Seaguls, Psychedelic Furs on the Radio.
And Wall of Voodoo, Mexican Radio.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 02:56am PT
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So,
We had a pitch fixed and went to bed.
But.
The boys started a fire on the ledge below me and I watched as it got out of control only a bit and they summarily kicked it off the ledge and we all went to sleep.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 10:55pm PT
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When we awoke, Ahem,
The Embers that had been booted the
Night before had Caught Some Wind.
Heres MP, you can Vaguely Make Out Some Smoke.
Look Just Behind Him.
Ooops.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2006 - 10:59pm PT
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A nice bit of wide ahead.
Then The Exit.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 18, 2006 - 06:41am PT
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We Didn't Let This One Get Away...
Anybody Got More Trono Pics?
BVB?!
Remember those Brothers from SD? Almadovar Maybe?
I Remember Seeing one of them Solo Sticky Fingers down there.
'Think his name was Adrian...
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Mar 18, 2006 - 08:21am PT
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So Bidus, what's up with your booty in that last pic? Looks like you soiled your britches, say it ain't so roy.
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Salami
Trad climber
Ex.Livermore Ca. now the UK
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Mar 18, 2006 - 08:27am PT
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I am guessing that the boys were out for some fresh air and thats a photo shop spray paint job to keep all the girls from blushin.
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Mar 18, 2006 - 09:17am PT
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Adrian and Jeff Amadovar, don't think Adrian climbs anymore, but a friend of mind works with Jeff , I'll check with him and see what they are up to. I have some photos of the the So. Face but don't know how to get them on online and stuff
JB
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 19, 2006 - 12:12pm PT
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F10 Climber,
I think Jeff Amadovar went down there to do the Wall of Voodoo route. Ask him about it...
Also, F10: Check your EMail for Scanning Posting Advice.
Fred Zeal, Pan Am. '78.
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 19, 2006 - 02:25pm PT
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Dan Curley drilling the hard way. Canyon Tajo, 1970s.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 19, 2006 - 04:32pm PT
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I'd love to see some old pics. I think I've done all the walls (3??) on the Throne and have no pics of anything. Looking down at Laguna Salada (the salty lagoon) in the dead of night is a lonely feeling.
JL
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 19, 2006 - 04:44pm PT
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I think you did some coolstuff on the North Face JL?
"The Little Smoke"?
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Mimi
climber
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Looking down from the top of the gully on the approach. The climbs posted are on the obvious granite formation to the left. The ancient inland seabed is in the distance. What a great place!
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Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
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I will always laugh at my first time down. We started down in Mr. E’s truck Ed’ Gs bug and Mikes American sedan. Before we got past the dry river bed it was Mr.Es overloaded truck supporting the journey. I am not sure but I think it was everyone’s first La Baja trip. We were passed by some back packers Werner L. and John V. Paul and the last guy’s name escapes me. Stopping them for help and directions we were told we should go back to Laguna Slauda (sp?) and hike up. The short way! ( Pic #9 1st set pics) They told us they were on the way to Laguna Hansen. As they drove off in the VW van someone thought Werner was the guy who authored Mission Gorge Climbing guide. The guide was possibly published in the 50s a real old timer. Anyway we take off after them. After many wrong turns bending Es spare tire holder and getting stuck in a mud bog we arrived at canyon tajo camp ground. Werner in Chounard Pile jacket, big smile by the fire arms held wide says welcome to Laguna Hansen.
Paul and John I think were doing Pan Am clean and Werner was doing Giraffe. On Pan Am the only hammer was dropped after placing one pin I think and did go clean from that point on.
Paul, hats off I used 2 pins later with newer gear. Dibbs used two and a two cam placement of a #4 friend.
Eric I lied, On the Maw traverse I used the gold line by tying a knot and hammering into the crack to replace the #2 friend. We got a lot of booty, pins and nuts after that paid guided group the week before.
Dibbs wanted to jug to gold line hanging to the right of the Brown Dihedral that a large person cut loose and dropped. I wanted to lead the Brown and it was my lead. Arriving at the top of the pitch I was scared shitless thinking how far up would Dibbs have gotten as the rope was stuck around a loose boulder on a sloping ledge.
Our Topo was the large version with L ending, showing two rubbish pitches to the top from the gravely left arching A ?+ arch. I think we made it in four or five roped pitches.
On the Canyon you are the rescue party as well as the climbing party
Remember climbing maybe harsh more so land around you.
I have a Topo for the VW route never found the start to it.
Mandatory snow day Thursday 10" rule hoping for the same this week 10"+
IN the 70s couldn’t see the snow for the boulders
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