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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 14, 2011 - 02:32pm PT
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Got a phone call out of the blue this morning from Big Head himself.
He's turning fifty this September and planning to celebrate.
I met Jonny on his first trip to the Valley back in 81ish?
He was this pale, skinny, bespectacled Brit with technique to spare, balls the size of trash cans and a dietary regimen that would kill a goat. Bachar immediately pegged him as the "Beau Gester" after his gritstone testpiece.
Highlights;
Watching him leading the Good Book behind us wearing leather gloves with the fingers cut off.
Hearing Tom Gilje say that HE had to look away watching Jonny way run out and throwing the wrong size gear to the deck on an early on sight of Hangdog Flyer.
Watching Jonny pound white sugar straight out of the decanter while hanging at Carl's Junior in Yucca Valley.
Me pitching off More Monkey Than Funky and yarding Jonny in his way too short shorts off the belay boulder and straight into the prickle bush at the base.
Jonny tore it up at Josh, beguiled the lovely Maria Cranor, learned to surf and now resides in SLC Utah. A unique individual who's mere existence is well worth celebrating.
With greatest respect,
PB
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Aug 14, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
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Lest we forget his ascent of Hall of Mirrors in EB's after the sticky rubber revolution....
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 14, 2011 - 03:34pm PT
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Surely at least one topian was there for the British Airways incident?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Aug 14, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
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No stories....
Get him on here Chief and he can tell us some!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 14, 2011 - 04:23pm PT
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When I lived in Sandy, Utah, he and Maria were gracious hosts to me and my family on several occasions, I used to love to drink HIS beer, he always had some good brews. I remember him on some WIDE azde crack, that was barely off the ground, but went on forever, I can't recall the name of it. He's a great guy, took me some crazy tours of BD BITD, sneaking up on computer guys and catching them playing stuff other than work on their computers. I mostly remember how cool he was to welcome us to Utah and take us in as one of their own.
They use to warm up on stuff harder than I could ever dream of climbing, it was a true treat to watch a master at his craft!
Peace
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Aug 14, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
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What was the name of the Rt. that he was on in J-Tree that was in the Magz a long time ago. Something near the Poodle Wall? I always loved that photo.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 14, 2011 - 06:44pm PT
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That's the one weschrist! Wicked!
Peace
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Aug 15, 2011 - 03:56am PT
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Super nice guy, mellow and humble, always on the top of the game. Can't really think of any stories 'cept the type of how he was always firing the hardest climbs. He seemed to stay out of the trouble the rest of us dirtbags were often finding ourselves in.
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Aug 15, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
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one time
jonnys dog
pissed on
my rope
just before
he floated
my proj.
went to do
his route
"stink bug"
thinking it
was gonna be
some serious
slabbin.
It has a
horizontal roof
two bodylengths long.
the bags had
extra sand
in 'em
that day.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Aug 29, 2011 - 03:55am PT
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Come in here dear boy
Have a cigar
You're gonna go far
You're gonna fly high
You're never gonna die
You're gonna make it if you try
They're gonna love you
Well, I've always had a deep respect
And I mean that most sincerely...
You climb just fantastic
That is really what I think
Oh, by the way, which one's Mellonhead?
Here's to the old man (aka Bighead) on his upcoming birthday.
Still pullin' down hard (in spite of his age.)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Aug 29, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
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I was honored to follow Jonny up the Rostrum BITD (82?). I was too slow on the lead. He had to power through and winch me up the 11c pitch.
Jonny, how's yer' memory.
Do you remember all the details NOW?
Tell me ALL about the "Manly Dike." Yuk Yuk.
How many routes? 7000+ yet?
Still pullin' down hard. I know that much is true.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 29, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
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Just had the honor of backing off my first Woodward route last week.
Too much space between bolts on shakey micro holds on a sustained crux.
True master for sure.
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Overfortyfiveboulderer
Boulder climber
Sacramento
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Jun 22, 2017 - 06:28pm PT
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So this thread shouldn't die. I searched JW to see what was going on and found this.
I climbed with JW at the horn--belayed for what seemed like 2+ hours while he got two more bolts in on lead on a project of his. But, true to form, he then offered to belay me on whatever I wanted to do. I got on a warm up and then I got on his 12c face to roof to slab. I flashed the 12c face to roof part and then looked up at the slab saw one bolt and 40 feet to the anchors. I promptly said, "take," and lowered unashamed of not even trying.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jun 22, 2017 - 06:51pm PT
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JW is still going strong. We spend around 6 weeks a year doing FAs at an area that he would kill me for naming. He still has the same disdain for bolts being close together, some things never seem to change. Probably the best stance driller I've climbed with. I've seen some impressive efforts of his where the last bolt wasn't exactly close by.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 22, 2017 - 06:53pm PT
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Badass Henny. Well said. Woodward is the Man!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 23, 2017 - 08:49am PT
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One of my favorites is his renaming a Mark Rolofson route Bucksnort Botchjob after he came along and waltzed right by a midpitch belay sation installed by the FA team.
A very young Maestro Woodward on Beau Geste one of his necky breakthrough leads back in jolly old England.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jun 23, 2017 - 09:09am PT
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My wife and I were camping and hanging with Jonny and Mariah in Camp4 1982 or 1983. Really nice people we had lots of fun
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jun 23, 2017 - 09:09pm PT
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Jonny is one of the best climbers I ever saw on the lead in my life but... he was even more skilled in TALKING S...!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 24, 2017 - 09:14am PT
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rumors of the projects Henny refers to have been staple campfire stories in the outskirt camping around Yosemite Valley for the past half decade... (maybe more).
Tried to look up some Woodward literature but came up short... even the piece he did for Climbing was in an ephemeral issue that I seemed not to have saved...
four more years to his big 60... my guess is he'll still be in the game.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jun 24, 2017 - 09:17am PT
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A mellower Jonny a few years back! Hangin' at Casa de Gomez with Kelly G and Lynnie L
Peace
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Jun 24, 2017 - 03:32pm PT
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Gosh, that sure looks like some good booze!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jun 24, 2017 - 10:13pm PT
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No hanger overs that way...pay now or pay later!
Peace
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 24, 2017 - 10:23pm PT
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Wine, rum, tequila and ??? What is the magic fourth ingredient?
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jun 24, 2017 - 10:43pm PT
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Russian Vodka!
Peace
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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JW enter and sign in please...
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Sep 30, 2017 - 12:59pm PT
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The fourth ingredient is bull$hit - it's one skill which doesn't diminish with age. I can only hope those campfire stories are full of ear-burning slander.... you know I would want it no other way. Darrell - thanks for the plug. How much do I owe you for that? Oh, I get it... somehow it is going to be held over me as some kind of sick ransom next time there's a particularly gawd-awful stance in our future. Steve - I am sorry that I have been lax in entertaining you all here on ST, but there are too many routes and too little time, and that whole thing only gets worse. Wish I could contribute to the memories but mine is shot! I'm relying on you guys and now you can get away with anything. Like a certain somebody said... never let the truth get in the way of a good story.
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splitter
Trad climber
HighwayToHell
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Sep 30, 2017 - 03:52pm PT
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me thinks he done 'silk banana' with one hand tied behind his back (or something like that)...respect! ;)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sep 30, 2017 - 06:13pm PT
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I'm pretty sure JW has backed off of my 5.6 routes. You never see him on them topping them out, do you? Proof positive!
;) lol
Have fun out there!
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rbolton
Social climber
The home
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The man, the myth, the Mellonhead.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Graham, Woodward, and Bearamiah, 2006:
(Plus some other Woodward fans, Evans, Vogel, and Henny)
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L
climber
Tiptoeing through the chilly waters of life
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^^^^ That was hella fun, wasn't it, Roy.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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One of the best single days of my life, that day, L!
Bouldering with BVB, hanging that evening with everyone whom I grew up with. I can't imagine any kind of high school reunion ever topping such an event!
Thanks much to you and Kevin for hosting!!!
YES!
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L
climber
Tiptoeing through the chilly waters of life
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One of the best single days of my life, that day, L!
Well, I have to agree with you there, Roy. In fact, the whole weekend was one of the best days of my life--Lol!
Since this is a Melonhead thread, I suppose I should recall the most outstanding thing about meeting and spending time with the awesome Jonny Woodward...
It wasn't because he has an unusually large head with lots of fluffy hair...although from Bob's drawing, it would appear this to be a significant reason for wanting to be in his presence.
Nor was it because, as Powell would say, Jonny could flatten himself against a cliff face the way a "woman" could (referring to hip mobility), and thereby climb anything and everything with what appeared to be insanely effortless ease.
And even though Jonny's got an excellent sense of humor (and a dry wit that makes one laugh constantly and uncontrollably), even that wasn't what I found particularly wonderful about him.
What I remember best about Jonny Woodward was that he fostered cats.
Yep, he gave a home to rescued cats. It was important to him. You could tell.
I seriously think the guy walks on water.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Jonny came over from England and needed a place to stay. Maria hooked him up with the Leichtfuss family in Valley Center, San Diego. We had 4 kids that loved to torture JW. :)
Dan L. felt Jonny needed a project if he was going to hang with us so he put him to work making a rock wall on the property. After a few days Dan confided....he's way better climbing the rock than cementing it.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Fostering is nothing. You should see him when he’s out at night fixing all strays.
Pulled up next to me at a light one night and I kept staring straight ahead to avoid making eye contact w the creeper in the van until I realized who it was at the next light. Exchanged pleasantries, then he was off “to meet some new friends”.
You’re a good one JW.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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It was an awesome morning and I'm sure Dan was happy in the heavenlies.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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No stories but Jonny is the REAL DEAL! His routes will stand the test of time...definetly not for the faint of heart.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Shoot.
I only have a couple Woodward stories.
The first is an amalgam of experiences watching Woody lead rock climbs, always with polished aplomb. Like Perry once said, Jonny was and is the lightweight technician.
The second: one night at T Gordon's, after many rounds of posturing and sh$t talking and beers and stuff, Jonny said to me: you know, Roy, if you stick your chest out any farther, you're going to grow wrinkles in your back!
Too stupid to understand the hit, I had no problem interpreting his body language and grin. Jonny walked off, and I had to ask a buddy to interpret what I figured had to be a slight of some sort.
Might have been Walling, Lechlinski, E, or prolly all three, who turned to me and said: you should have told him, if he keeps that up, he's going to get wrinkles in his face!
Ha! Now that rejoinder would've been an example of brinksmanship gone bad …
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L
climber
Tiptoeing through the chilly waters of life
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Nice photos, Lynne!
That one of Seth looks a lot like Bob Bolton pulling a move BITD.
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jonnywoodward
climber
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There was a question about British Airways early in this thread. Here is the long story...
I arrived for the first time in America in October '82 with the goal of traveling around California for a year and climbing 1000 routes on a budget of 1000 bucks. The < $3 per day was supposed to cover camping, food, transport, liquor, whores and anything else which might be needed for life over this side of the pond. Anyway with $1 a night going to camping in camp 4 it quickly became obvious I would have to postpone the liquor and whores for a while. The white sugar direct from the dispenser (post 1) was a way of keeping to the budget. Free calories! Also a low cost meal was mustard and mayo, pilfered from fast food restaurants, one packet on each slice of bread and made into a tasty sandwich. This is relevant, honest.
The 82/83 winter would become a legendary El Nino event for California and by the end of October the rains had set in in the Valley and it was off to Joshua Tree. I got a ride with Jeff Elgar. It was my first experience with the VW bus, and unfortunately not my last. 20 hours, 200 gallons of gas and 50 quarts of oil later the rolling superfund site arrived in Josh.
Bachar was there of course and I'd see him doing all his morning boulder problems, Cave Man, Scatterbrain, Stem Gem etc, every day. Doesn't he get bored? This is before we became friends and I became familiar with his training. Eventually I did them all, except Stem Gem which I would slide off every time. This really pissed me off because Bachar did it effortlessly, literally hiking it. How can he possibly be that much better than me? Of course we know now that this was partially because he was using the first pair of Fires available to an American climber, but I was in the dark and continued to fail until I was down to the cardboard midsole on my right shoe.
This was a disaster. New shoes would bust the budget for sure. Liquor and whores would be outof the question for the rest of my trip. What is a dirt bag to do? I know - a $2 tube of plastic rubber from the hardware store. That's it! So every couple of days I'd smear a new layer of plastic rubber over the cardboard and try to climb.
Of course the most dramatic failure of the plastic plastic (it bore no resemblance to rubber, let me tell you) happened on British Airways where I fell the full length of the route after the plastic plastic cut loose and my belayer, not expecting I'd fall on a lowly 5.10, continued to pay out slack as I stood for a few minutes at the top crux, looking at the little edge which would precipitate my demise a provide inspiration for a great route name.
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drF
Trad climber
usa
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^^^^^
Keep'em coming!
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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have u found a new type of plastic rubber yet?
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nyc2az
Trad climber
Brooklyn
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any stories from Prescott's Granite Mountain?
I've been trying a route recently up there FA'd (onsight) by Jonny Woodward and heck i'm plain inspired! Wondering what he thought of that place and what else caught his eye while he was visiting.
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Jan 21, 2018 - 01:27pm PT
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That would be The Shutdown. I no doubt inadvertently stole that from someone - it was there and it looked good. Probably before the red tag days, I don't recall. I wouldn't have known what red tat mean't back then anyway. Hey, look at me, come climb me. Great place.
Paradise Forks was another Arizona area which stands proud in the memory banks too. Amongst all those stellar routes Acid Test remains my favorite there.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 02:45pm PT
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Here is a Peak Rock route description/homage for Beau Geste shown earlier.
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| Messages 1 - 46 of total 46 in this topic |
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