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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 7, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
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Since 2001 I have been experiencing spiritual awakening and now it has escalated to the highest level. I knew this was within me since I was a young child but nobody would believe me and most, even priests, thought I was delusional. I knew of things that the church does not tell people or maybe the church slightly misunderstood what Jesus was trying to teach us. I escaped all of my doubters by running to Arizona's vast desert, getting away from the church, and smoked a lot of pot to rid myself of the spirits. I lived my life in partial confusion but at the same time have met many thousands of the most incredible people you can meet. These people are a big hearted family of rock climbers.
In 2001 I was going through a divorce where I was crushed having two babies and the family being torn apart. I visited a doctor who gave me an experimental drug to ease my pain. I only asked for sleeping pills but this was what I was given instead. Over a two week period this drug caused heart spikes where my heart would stop, and moments later would start again. The drug was called Remeron. At first nobody believed me but eventually many experienced me passing out and they saw that I was not lying. The doctor still insisted that I continue taking the drug even though my Xwife was on the phone yelling at his office explaining that I was right then having a heart attack on the floor. I insisted seeing the doctor again and on my visit I had another heart spike in his office. When I woke I was in the hospital hooked up to monitors and other machines. I could see in my doctors eyes that he was very scared at not listening to what many had tried to tell him. I like my doctor and knew that this would eventually all be returned to normal. During one of the heart spikes I found myself in a dark tunnel with a very bright light in the distance. A figure appeared in the tunnel and I had a short conversation with this man? I am certain it was not Jesus but was a spirit. This spirit comically explained that it was not my time to be where I was.
Two years later, while I was on an in town boy scout climbing trip, I was approached by an amazing spiritual healer named Glenn. I like showing kids the magic I felt in climbing when I first started climbing, so at times I volunteer for free to teach kids on the weekends. Some of my friends saw the magic in what I was doing and joined me on my teaching, while other of my friends could not take a day off of their climbing weekend to help out without pay. Glenn excitedly told me that I was contacted and to prove it he told me the exact same words the figure in the tunnel told me. I am still blown away today from this awakening.
Of course I put the walls up in my mind again and was back to blocking my thoughts with the weed. In 2009 one day after the Outdoor Retailers Show in Salt Lake City, I had a climbing accident on a one move nothing boulder problem which somehow flipped me upside down landing me into a leaf pile. I had pads, three spotters, it was only 6' tall and visually nothing to get hurt on if the climber fell. This boulder problem is in the beautiful Little Cottonwood Canyon named Double Dyno. I somehow shattered my right leg femur bone in seven places. My two friends that I was with were leaving on a plane the next day which left me alone knowing nobody I saw. I live in Arizona. While I was in the Utah hospital I knew everything was going to be okay. I had a feeling that I was being cared for by higher forces than just the doctors, but it was a scary experience since the nurses were in a school environment of teaching and the faces that took care of me changed every day.
On the 5th hospital day I had a surprise visitor - Brian from SLC. I still tear up today reflecting on that moment as I first saw his face as he walked into the hospital room to surprise me. He of course had a prototype Chouinard/Frost Climaxe in his hands so I teared up even more in jealousy. Thank you Brian for being a great person! During my time in the hospital I was once again taken by the spirits on a journey of understanding. I was shown things that I cannot explain but I was granted an amazing feeling of peace. When I got back to Arizona many friends were there insisting they take care of me. I was truly Loved and I thank all of you over and over,…..and again!
The spiritual visions were still happening to me at my house and I called upon Glenn to help me understand what was going on. I have not seen Glenn in three years and he was at my front door step early the next morning. I wish there could be a Glenn in everybody's life then this world would only be about kindness and Love. My parents were present witnessing his amazing ability and my parents commented that it was a nice trick or something that he knew what he knew and said things aloud that he could not have known. This kinda scared my parents but at the same time Glenn came to me to give Marty his message, and not a message for my parents to understand. Kinda like the Oracle in the Matrix movies.
I went through my painful physical therapists smack down process which got me back onto my feet and walking again. Vincent you are brutal, but I Love what you have done for me. After a year I was back to climbing but kept having small accidents which kept me off of the rock. I am lead course setter at the Phoenix Rock Gym. I fell back into the same Marty pattern and put the minds walls back up and was back to the weed. Suddenly my leg was not responding, I was once again walking with a cane and went into a second surgery on January of 2011 to remove the hardware. My leg felt Soooooo much better after I had the Femur bone hardware removed. I slowly started working out again and then took a strange fall in the gym twisting my knee just right preventing me from climbing even again. Finally after healing, in June I went bouldering at the Draw in Flagstaff and during the warm up climbs on the simple walk down I slipped landing my right hand into a very healthy Agave plant.
I could not believe it! 21 spikes were shoved into and sticking out of my hand and a few totally through the knuckles of the two middle fingers. I had help from my friend Neo/Nick pulling out many of the spikes that we could see while the blood was flowing. Neo thank you for being strong with the situation and reacting to my injury as fast as you did. I am still upset that we had the video cameras right there and neither of us filmed the injury. We saw Zak Farmer the next day working at the Flagstaff gym and I tried to gross him out the best I could. My purple two middle fingers had puffed up twice the size they usually are. Amazingly I still have two spikes in my middle finger which I need to get surgery on to get them out.
I finally was able to get back to work and was excited to be climbing again, but this days work was reorganizing the back storage room with my super strong friend Joe Czerwinski. We finished up the work and Joe left leaving me to do the final tasks and then I was going to climb. Yeah! While shutting the roll-out back receiving door at the gym somehow my middle finger got trapped between the door panels. This was quite a shocking experience since there is no room between those panels when the door is shut for a middle finger to be stuck between them. I was by myself and had to roll the door back up to open the gap to get my finger out. Once again I was being told to focus on my mission, not my distraction.
Just after the Agave accident I was experiencing an intense spiritual awakening where my bed every night was soaked over and over. I was not sick but there was so much water in my shirt that I could ring it out. And I changed the shirt three times a night! I listened to the message and my need for the weed was taken away. No I did not just quit, I was so cleansed that I feel like I have never smoked any in my life. So teenage years to the mid 40s and now the code has been broken. I reflect on why I was even doing it in the first place for all of those years. It makes no sense.
This spiritual sensation is so great that I feel like I am floating now. Two weeks of the sweats and then I walked with God for four days. I understand so much now and everything in life makes sense. The formula to life is so easy no wonder kids act the way they do!!! While I am awake or asleep I feel that I am in two places at once. No I do not see Matrix atoms, but I can see the genuineness in everybody when they are not even talking. Surprisingly when people are talking to me having conversations at the rock gym, I only am picking up the words that have weight to them. I mention to my friends that I did not hear what you just said and could you please repeat it. If everybody would just talk out of their heart, everybody else would hear their message. There is so much unnecessary surface gibberish that people use between each other, no wonder the world is falling apart.
I met Chris Sharma when he was 14 years old. I was the media representative for ESPN and many other media companies that were present at the 21 Phoenix Bouldering Contests/Boulder Blasts. I never knew at that time that Chris was going to become the biggest inspirational figure in climbing to most climbers around the world. I set up interviews between the climbing superstars and the TV/ magazine representatives. Over the many years through familiarity Chris and I became passing friends. My greatest moment in my climbing life was while at one of the Phoenix Bouldering Contests, Chris came up to me near the end of the competition and said that he wanted to be my personal spotter for the last hour. Chris had already completed the 8 hardest problems at the competition with one hour to spare. I was very honored to have Chris following me around and carrying my pad. I was so honored that I stopped competing, and had every passing competitor stop to take a photo of them with Chris. Everybody has pictures of themselves hugging Chris with the biggest smiles I have ever seen in life.
I own many of Americas most priceless pieces of historical climbing gear and would trade all of it away just for the feeling I still feel from that moment in time. Chris now is so swamped with people wanting to see him climb that we have chased him out of the USA. I feel you Chris. My greatest moment was hugging him and I could care less what he climbs. Everybody else pushes the challenge "let's see if he could flash my route" and if he failed he would only be laughed at on these new Facebook's, My Spaces and U-tubes.
When climbing superstars come to my house, I do not take them to the local crag. We go out to the water park or paintball arena and to a fun lunch. Why do you think that your small local crag will interest these superstars when they are already climbing in the most fantastic places in the world? And then they are always pushed to climb the hardest routes at the local crag. People, a hug and a lunch will go further with these amazing talented climbers and they will remember you for life. If you want to challenge them, then you are just another wolf in the field. Chris also has a camp that he teaches youth kids the magic of climbing.
I started collecting climbing gear 20+ years ago. My greatest collecting inspiration is a man named Stephane Pennequin who lives in Corsica France. Stephane has the passion and started collecting climbing gear a few years before I did. Him and I had a beautiful relationship where we have never met each other, but we shared an amazing common passion for gear. Computers were just starting to come around, but Stephane and I only wrote hand written letters to each other occasionally surprising each other with an amazing gift we would receive in the mail. This bond between him and I was, and still is, very magical. The problem that developed is the creation of Ebay. Before Ebay, Stephane and Marty's only outlet for gear was through the climbing manufacturers, and through visiting the hero climbers of yesterday working to preserve gear we have never knew existed.
Over time we stopped writing each other, became distant in our lives, and became greedy on major pieces of gear that showed up on Ebay. There are many other collectors out there today that jump in on this Ebay dream and really bring up the cost on trying to save/preserve this gear for a museum.
I was dubbed the chosen one in the USA by many manufacturers that saw my passion for preserving climbing gear. On some Christmas's, 30+ boxes of gear would just show up at my house unannounced as a surprise. Some of these boxes had traveled from the other side of the world and contained full sets of cams, nuts, prototypes, old gear, hair from an Elephant that fell off of the trail on the way to Everest base camp, you name it! My wife stopped giving me gifts at Christmas because she felt she could not give anything greater that what she saw. In reality if she just gave me her Love, it would have outdone my entire collection, but she searched for a trinket instead to represent her Love. At that time in life the pressure of her job, two babies at home, her parents not accepting that Marty was not working and was a home husband, lead to divorce. Please do not get me wrong, My Xwife and I stayed good friends because of the kids we have together. My two kids are the greatest thing in my life. They are beautiful and I Love them! I Love them more than anything!!!
Until this walk with God I was still on Ebay riding the greed train that I had to win every trinket I did not have. I drained my bank account to nothing to obtain what? I denied my kids a new $30.00 video game exclaiming that "WE HAVE NO MONEY" and two days later I won a nothing piton that I didn't even know existed for $70.00. My collection is so huge that when I placed the newly acquired piton into my collection, it disappeared like a single blade of grass added to a one acre lawn. I have nothing now but a big pile of WHAT that is in a backpack so huge that now it is breaking my back. My cabinets are empty of food and I am denied working because of the constant accidents that keep happening. God said to just believe and all will be granted to you. From the miracles that I have seen over the past few years I do believe this is going to be true, but it is very hard to stand there with your hands outward in belief as I am feeding my family again with packs of Ramen soup.
There are many collectors out there that have this passion for collecting climbing gear and we are all falling into this Ebay trap. We are constantly outbidding each other on pieces of gear that someday will all be on display in the same place anyways. Many of these huge collectors are getting old and do not know what to do with their collection when we move on. There are so many climbers in this world that would Love to visit/travel to some Smithsonian Museum which houses the most amazing pieces of climbing history that we need to preserve. If every climber just donated 5 dollars to this building, this building would exist but instead 5 dollars is too much to ask because of this greed thing us humans enjoy wrapping ourselves around.
It blows my mind that Ken Yeager has started this museum building called the Yosemite Museum, but everybody just donates their gear and no money to him. He has to work a full time job and then try to get all of these museum artifacts together that everybody is so excited to see. Why has nobody sent him enough money to keep him concentrating on just the museum alone? The museum could be a whole Disneyland style climbing park near some real crag and rock gym with outdoor moving kayak river rides, hiking garden path and bike trails all hooked together in one. But no, my 5 hard earned dollars is for a 6 pack of beer instead, or a $100 bag of weed that will be gone in a week.
You people with money out there why do you not create this dream? Because it does not give you return of money? Many climbers are constantly attacking each other on these forms for WHAT? You all share the same passion but the egos seem to drive the common sense where in the end, none of the hatred words even mattered. I Love Chris Sharma for what he has given me in life, a hug in a photo with him. Not that he just climbed another amazing route.
I understand my mission clearly now and that I was not to become the big museum, I was entrusted by thousands as a storage unit until this museum was created. I am the "collector" chosen one yes, but to only make sure these precious items go to the correct place for all to Love and enjoy.
I need to get back to work so I do not lose my house in foreclosure. I need somewhere for my kids to live. Ken, I will be visiting you soon. I have many fantastic Yosemite museum pieces for you to share to everybody. This is better than having them just sit in a storage shed collecting dust for years.
Please climbers….just think about the dream.
Love Marty Karabin
1301 E. Weldon Ave
Phoenix, AZ 85014
Karabin714@aol.com
marty@onedollarministry.com
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Marty, thanks for the missive.
I've been a minor contributor to Stephane, Marty, and Ken over the past few years and have conveyed to Stephane, and to Marty to a lesser extent, that I hope they are all considering what will become of their legacy.
Between the three of them they could put together sufficient gear for a permanent museum in the U.S., one in the EU, and still have enough left over for a traveling exhibit.
I've contributed to all three in the hopes at least one of the three will survive intact over the coming decades and find a good permanent home. Maybe that's Ken's museum, or maybe the AAC or BMC will eventually do one or join with a conventional museum to create something.
Marty has a good point that maybe now effort should be put into finding / creating a permanent home for our collective legacy. I'm all for that being Ken's museum or any other viable alternative. I'd personally like to see all three of them put their heads together on that front to see what could be done.
My two cents anyway. Anyone else? Suggestions?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Marty;....you are full of life;....keep the spirit flowing......and wear a helmet and /or kneepads when you leave the house. If I ever have anything you wish or need for your awesome collect;...just let me know;...it's yours for the asking......Your Queen Creek guide is still one of the best guides ever written;.....thanks for all the sharing you have done with the climbing community. Good luck on your spiritual quest.......climb on.....and...as I tell my son lake who seems to get hurt quite often;.......today is a day with no more boo boos........and thanks for sharing your story with us too....a facinating journey;....so far;.....and I'm sure there is much more excitement to come....
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouldering the Gnar
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So one primary message that I am getting from Marty is that most climbers are cheap dirtbags. They think that donating their unwanted unusable climbing gear is really helping out when what they should actually be doing is really stepping up to the plate and making a real donation. Yeah thats my opinion of most climbers too. Cheap, self fixated, self important slugs.
I dont't know if you have noticed how many climbers commit suicide. Well in the dark of night when no else is around they get a little dose of reality and they get to see how hollow, shallow and pathetic their lives actually are.
You reflect your self-loathing, Bob Gerber.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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BUMP!
Thanks for all you do.
Best of luck to you.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Bob, I think you may have been a little drunk when you reached for your butt plug. I was starting to think, "how bad can it be...?", butt then I remembered the glass glue suppository - ouch dude! - no wonder you're grumpy.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 02:06am PT
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Climbers are the most generous people I know. Money makes a person greedy, not rock climbing. I have a storage full of historic climbing gear, what should I do with it?
Keep in mind I have NO MONEY nor ANY TIME.
Marty
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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If I remember right he already has one...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Marty,
I do not believe you are "the chosen one" to collect gear for others.
I do believe your collecting habits are somewhat obsessive, but you have retained some perspective, which is a good sign.
That is, recognizing that you must be careful to try to not let your house go into foreclosure. This is solved by getting back to work; limiting your collecting budget won't be enough.
Donating money to buy property / a building for a museum does not work for Yosemite Valley - the land there is not for sale. It is more of a negotiation for space in a public building, competing against other interests who also want such space.
More fundamentally, I am not sure if there would really be much demand to visit such a climbing museum, unless it was expanded well beyond gear. I think there is more interest in stories and photos than the gear. Also, there are very few truly historic pieces of gear; most of it was pretty generic. Even if a good museum exhibit was constructed, most climbers will spend a fair amount of time traveling to Yosemite and want to spend their time there actually climbing.
To most climbers, gear is interesting to the extent that it enables them to do good climbs, or as an illustration of how climbs were harder in the past because the gear was worse.
I wish you good luck in your mission to turn your climbing gear collection into something positive for others. And in your desire to gain control over the collecting obsession. Admitting you have a problem is an important first step!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Anyone out there know both Ken Burns and Jim Collins? A couple of folks like that focused on climbing's history / legacy in conjunction with a Smithsonian + AAC partnership could be a powerful thing. Seems like the NYC Do we have any climbing folk in Congress? Maybe sic Malcolm on it as well.
Ideas anyway...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Marty,
If it comes down to it, I agree - sell it all. I am pretty torn as I'd hate to see one of the few major collections scattered back to the wind versus find a permanent home. But...
Bottom line? I wholeheartedly agree a home for gear has to take a far back seat to a home for kids. Wish I had the resources to solve both issues for you with one stroke, but I don't.
But you do have my best wishes and hopes for you and your family...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Give it away. To Ken or Stephane. The great religious seekers gave away their possessions right? Then you can reap the true rewards of your spirit quest.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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I donated some very rare Ewbank wired nuts to The Nut Museum in Corsica. I have some very early "junk" in a box in my attic collecting dust.
I also think you would be better off unloading this stuff on Ebay to generate money to keep your house.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Marty, thank you for the full meal deal story: supersized of course:-)
Rock on!
For myself, I can't think of a better location for a rockclimbing museum than in the valley. Maybe the lord will bring it to pass. I hope it's better than if your amazing collection of stuff all disappeared in a house fire, a break in or something heinous.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
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Thank you all for your great words. My museum is not for sale nor do I want to jump over anybody else's museum. The reason I obtained all of this stuff was to preserve it for all climbers to see. To me my Chris Sharma photo is worth twice the value of the overall collection. I value my entire collection as one penny. Please note that I stated that Ken is the museum to be. Ken has a big box of history that's going to come to him soon. But once again Ken also has no time to put all of what I have onto display since he is also trapped with no monies over being able to put his entire time into his passion. So my collection now goes into his storage so what was to gain here? I know that many donate money to Ken, but it probably is just enough to pay for the display cases, over it paying for his bills as well. Stephane too is trapped by family, job and time otherwise he would have already created the most fantastic book of gear history that the world has seen.
I am not a priest and am not versed very well in the Bible. I am just Marty the climber. God has opened my eyes and I feel an anointing so great that I plan on infecting all of you with it. I know all of you out there have a deep story like mine to tell. The problem is that nobody is doing it! Instead people walk around with this amazing image of themselves which others easily see the baggage they carry.
What people do not know is that Lucifer is just as beautiful as Jesus. Lucifer is an Angel! Lucifer is doing a great job making people believe in Religion so others will feel the need to fight you over it. Once you dialed in Religion it gives you the feeling that you know the answers to life! But the reality is like going all of your life feeling great joy and happiness with your parents and brothers and sisters, then you find out you were adopted. The feeling of deception is that great or greater when you "Awaken" to the truth.
The message I receive is: "Those who walk in faith wear a shield of armor so great that it can not be penetrated." "Those who know faith are lost." "Stop believing that you are Religious, and start believing in Jesus."
Sell my collection for money, that's funny! Lucifer is money. He has you all hooked on his "Money" drug!" I have so many people in my life that will give me their house if I lose mine. You actually think I am worried about my life? I HAVE JESUS!
Love Marty
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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sorry you feel that way!
that's funny! Lucifer is money. He has you all hooked on his "Money" drug!"
i have to make lots of money just so i can live in malibu :)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Way to wave the crack pipe under the junkie's nose Russ.....
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Russ, don't be mean...
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ChampionSleeper
Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Marty-
Maybe God/Jesus/Lucifer/Spirits are trying to tell you to.....
STOP BOULDERING! :-)
Take it easy man, bouldering is for kids. Get on a rope more often and I think you will have less injury.
And leave the crap work (sorting holds, bolts,etc) to Georgio and Jeremey. Com'on man, you've got seniority; you shouldn't even be washing holds anymore.
Heard the comp went really well this year! See you soon,
Paul
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
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Russ, Awesome set of old pitons! Wow what a treasure! Thanks for sharing it with me. Unfortunately I have all of the items already except for the aluminum Marwa carabiner. The last piton shown is a Grivel Piton from the 1950s, not a Brivel. I hope all is awesome in life and Susan isn't working you to much on the house renovations!
Say hello to Susan (Marty's Angel) for me.
For all of you evil ones my armor is on....sticks and stones.....hmm.....didn't feel them.
Marty
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Sell my collection for money, that's funny! Lucifer is money. He has you all hooked on his "Money" drug!" I have so many people in my life that will give me their house if I lose mine. You actually think I am worried about my life? I HAVE JESUS
So it is okay to leach off hard working people supporting their family so you can keep your gear hoard in the name of God? Seems to me it is more noble to take care of your family than hold on to a bunch of material goods.
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Weird ass letter to climbers.
A sentence claiming "life changing" BS
One sentence praising one's self.
Another chastising climbers.
Another begging.
Another praising other collectors then taking it back.
Donating gear the say why would I do that if it just sits in a box unused.
Get your head out of your ass marty and feed/house the family.
Stop buying gear and video games.
Suze Orman needs to kick your butt.
http://www.suzeorman.com/
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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So it is okay to leach off hard working people supporting their family so you can keep your gear hoard in the name of God? Seems to me it is more noble to take care of your family than hold on to a bunch of material goods.
Second that.
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Kurt Ettinger
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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I agree with MTuck. Weird post. All over the map
Yes that money is evil...now give me some you Bas#terds HaHHHAAA!!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Feel good to kick someone while they are down and having some problems?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Marty has found the LORD!
HA hA hA marty your thread is boaring!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Hoh man!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
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Ken, I found some cool stuff to send to you.
Let's start with these. Thank you Don Lauria for believing in me all of these years in holding these priceless treasures. These are the original stamps which William 'Dolt' Feuerer used to stamp his product signature on every piece of gear he sold. Ken these are yours for free.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
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Ken, Here are a few more items for your museum.
4 1/2"LONGware Bong and 3 Ring Angle Hooks. These items were used by Jim Bridwell throughout the 1960s when at that time he was developing the hardest aid routes in the world. These items were used to ascend many of those routes. Thank you Jim, Peggy and Layton for believing in me all of these years. Even though you went through tough times yourselves, you always welcomed me into your house, fed me, and insisted I stay for the night. The Bridwell family has a bigger heart than any of you know. Well, I am sure that Todd has felt this too. I also have authenticity papers that will accompany these items.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
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It is interesting that so many have missed the point. I have an amazing life! I have an amazing job! My kids are wonderful and are totally fine. My house is awesome but financially upside-down like probably everybody else who owns a house! We just want to move on. All I asked is for somebody to create a place so I can GIVE my gear to them. I do not want it anymore. But this translates into Marty being greedy? I bet thousands of climbers thought that Tom Frost was a fool for leaving Chouinard back in the 1970s. But Tom became a millionaire two more times after that! He moved on to explore other things in his life. I want to move on. I said that Marty found God, and that makes me dumb? So everybody in the world that wants to get closer to God is Dumb too?
Thousands of climbers have donated their gear to me because it was intended to end up in a museum. These items can not be sold because of my promise to these thousands. I feel everyday that I am going to come home and it will all be ripped off, or the house burned down or who knows. I pay hundreds for insurance plans and storage fees because there is nowhere for the gear to go. Collecting stuff is a personal passion of mine and I do not see it as a problem. I just want to move on.
There is no worry. Ken is going to get all of my Yosemite gear and that is mentioned on many other threads as well. The only reason he has not received it yet is because the Yosemite Museum was a traveling display. I was waiting for his museum to become a permanent location before I sent the gear.
Stephane, what do you need? Can you send me thousands of your dollars to cover shipping fees to Corsica? I know every penny you have is going into your sons education but the gear is more important, right?
Can't people see the trap I feel that I am in?
Tucker - You ruin every thread you post on. But you say I have a problem?
johntp - No leaching, just giving my gear away for free.
Pyro - That BD full set of cams I had for you, Bummer, looks like you are on the Naughty List…..
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go-B
climber
Sozo
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Your doing a good thing Marty!
God Bless!
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Johnny K.
climber
Southern California
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Marty I respect what you have done over the years and what you are trying to convey.The fact of the matter is majority of people have financial issues and keeping things "settled down". Everyone has to take care of themselves and their family.The individual has to make the decision to move on and situate everything.You can not rely on anyone else,or expect anyone to really understand your situation in words of circles.
You want to move on,just move on Marty. It really is that simple.The lord will help you with direction if you keep your hope and faith in what you want to do.Talking about other people's situation or decisions in their life,talking about money,talking about the gear etc,it makes no difference on what YOU do in the end.What you think is right for you,is what you should do.
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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i don't think chris s. has a climbing camp for kids.
i do think he helps andy at his climbing camp for kids.
it is yo basecamp for climbing.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Awesome Marty, your name will no doubt live on long after your soul has left the building. I can see now, more than ever, that the the Yosemite Museum will be a reality. Your amazing collection of gear will be the bedrock of the place. Wow?!
We're all just buying time on this earth till we all take a dirt nap, but some of us will leave a mark significantly bigger than a few words tearing down our brothers. Those are the folks that will be remembered. I can see it was meant to be. Congrats and simultaneous thanks!
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Hi Marty,
First off, I's like to say that your dedication to collecting and preserving those thousands of pieces of climbing history is appreciated. I happily donated some obscure unused bolt hangers to your collection a decade ago.
Several people have derided your thoughts, in rude fashion, over your posts. Perhaps those same people are threatened by someone who is enagaged in an existential struggle, trying to sort out the meaning and purpose in life, reset personal goals, and move forward. I'm sorry that others have been thoughtless and dismissive, instead of responding with compassion.
Your posts have been described as "weird" and "all over the map."
There are moments of wisdom and logic too. As a mental health provider, I notice several indicators of a possible problem. It would be wise to sort that out with a professional. That might be difficult for you due to distrust of psychotropic medication, doctors, and people who thought you were delusional. Knowing that you probably won't appreciate this feedback, I feel obligated to provide it anyway. Based upon your writings, a psychiatric evaluation is indicated. Medication management and psychotherapy could be highly beneficial to you. Often times, the people who need treatment do not recogize it themselves, and reject treatment.
You are contemplating changing some major life goals and giving away your vast collection, seemingly on impulse. Making a major change on impulse, when one is struggling with brain chemistry, is usually not a good idea. I'd recommend that you give yourself permission to not make drastic changes, until after a waiting period of at least 90 days.
If the "trap" that you are referring is logistical/financial, then ask for help on this site before giving everything away. At least buy yourself some time.
If the trap that you refer to is emotional/psychological, then seek support from professionals.
Regards,
John
To others:
Please be compassionate with Marty. Do give direct, honest, and caring feedback. A person struggling does not need "Go ahead and jump" messages.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 01:05am PT
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Juan, thank you for your thoughts. I find it amusing that in society today we point our fingers at people that we find different or confusing. This is why so many people are on prozac drugs as their answer, or giving Ritalin to the kids. I mention that I have Jesus, but so many feel that Jesus is an unacceptable answer. I know that I am totally okay because my heart is huge and warm. How did humans ever make it to the 20th century when these drugs did not exist in the past? Doctors need to go back to healing with faith over filling the medicine cabinet as the answer.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Marty, the cheapest way to send anything is through the U.S. mail. If you take the trouble to box it up yourself, I think you can send equipment to Corsica for less than the thousands that commercial air freighters charge. A moving company that sends things by sea could also do it cheaper than Fed Ex or UPS .
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 01:09am PT
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In summer 1999 I met Alex Lowe at the trade show. I knew of him and his great accomplishments but never was able to pin him down for a hand shake. Alex and I got into an argument of who was the greatest climber in the world. It was a fun argument but we really got down into depth with it. He would state his case and then I would state mine. We were unable to agree on who we both thought was the greatest climber so we left it as a draw. You see, Alex always believed that the greatest climber in the world was the one that was having the most fun. I of course thought I was having the most fun and he thought the same, but of himself. We shared a drink at the water fountain on the back wall near the Verve booth, shook hands and smiled greatly at each other from the fun. I then asked for one more request which was his signature on this magazine picture. I told him that this picture will look great on my wall as him endorsing the fact that I was the greatest.
A few months later I heard word that he was killed in an avalanche while climbing a peak called Shishapangma in Southern Tibet. I could not believe it. What a tragedy! I always respected the strength that Alex had as he did 400 pull-ups a day while hanging off of ice axes on a pull-up bar. A few years later I met his young kids and mom while playing around on the bouldering wall at the trade show. I know that his kids will grow up knowing that HE was really the greatest!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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.... my bad!
That BD full set of cams I had for you, Bummer, looks like you are on the Naughty List
common marty take me off ur bad boy list!
marty if you could write only a few sentences then maybe ESL students like me could understand that this is about selling gear and not some religous rant. pictures explain better than words.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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It's ok to have your head in the clouds as long as your feet are planted firmly on the ground. There is no big hurry to get rid of your worldly possessions. You really don't need to feel inadequate in the face of God. Give things time to settle and patience is a very useful virtue. I wish you the best Marty, for you have accepted a big responsibility. Live Upfull.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 02:26am PT
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Time for more fun!
Let's see how much you know about climbing history!
These 7 items shown below each have a simple question to be answered.
I will post the answers this Sunday night.
Unknown #1: What is the name of this cam monster and why was it made?
Unknown #2: The three carabiners below are Royal Robbins/Salewa, Salewa West Germany, and Otto Wiedemann.
What do all three of these carabiners have in common besides the visual obvious?
Unknown #3: What is this thing? What was it made for?
The carabiner is included to show the size.
Unknown #4: This item has been seen by tens of thousands of climbers. What is this historical climbing item?
Unknown #5: What year was this chalk bag created?
Unknown #6: The superstar climbers were feeling a little weak that year and I was able to win the Gold Medal.
What year is this Medal from?
Unknown #7: Who created this set of piton and rap anchor?
Good luck friends!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Unknown #2: All of the carabiners are made from hollow aluminum rod.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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unknown #5
I have a gear sling with that label...I'm sayin '76 or '77.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I bought my dolt chalkbag like that, new, in the yosemite mtn shop , spring '77. I'm guess ing it was made about then.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 11:54am PT
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The first time I met Dean Potter was just after he speed solo'd a route on Half Dome. In the photo I had, Dean's hair was shaved off and he was zipping through an area of the route known as the Zig Zags. The photo gave me the impression that he was just as tall as me, a few hairs above 5' 10." I searched and searched the trade show hoping that I could find him to shake his hand and land his signature. At some of these shows there is a lot of people running around in the isles and at times, you have to creatively get through them to get to one place or another. I kept bumping into this shaggy-haired dude that was wearing his name tag backwards. I must have bumped into him a dozen times or more as I searched for Dean. Yes you guessed it, once it dawned on me, that guy was Dean. I felt like such a heel.
Dean's hair had grown back and was quite long. I could not believe how tall he is as he towered over me. He smiled at me with a look in his eyes like saying "you again" when I asked for his signature and shook his hand. I know that many people look at Dean as bad boy who likes breaking the rules, but to me he was always really warm and awesome when we saw each other at the many trade shows following. Dean has brought climbing, slackening, soloing, climb-base jumping to a new level. His spiritual center is stronger that any other climber I have met.
Steph Davis is a different story. Steph was easy to identify at the shows, I mean, how could you miss her? Steph is really beautiful. She always hung out with the other girls at the 5.10 booth whom she is sponsored with. At first Steph shook my hand and gave me her signature, but for years following she insisted on me leaving her alone. I believe on one of my photos of her, she wrote "This is absolutely the last one." Steph is an amazing climber especially when she is climbing cracks. Some of the photos of her really give me goosebumps as the exposure is so extreme, she has no rope, but yet she looks so peaceful and calm. Eventually she warmed up to me and will sign anything I have of her.
I remember one show where Steph brought along her dog named Fletcher. Fletch is a sweet dog which seemed kinda out of place probably thinking "I hope somebody does not step on me." The show was quite crowded but Steph did a great job guarding Fletch from injury. The day was winding down and it was the usual "Beer-30" time where free beer flowed at many of the booths. At this time my collecting friend Robert hastily works every booth across the entire show collecting beer glasses from the manufacturers. Robert would find me later to show me all of his beer glass trophies, at the same time forgot to even have a beer for himself. I however saw my opportunity to be with Fletch.
I grabbed a Five Ten sticker, peeled half of the back off, and hung out with Fletch using the sticker to pet the dog. The sticker wadded up with hair which I was hoping that it did. Fletch was loving the attention and I received many dog kisses from it. I remember stopping with the petting for a second, looked up at Dean where he and Steph were sharing a look of WTF, and then both would stare down at me. Steph went back to her conversation with the girls and I exclaimed to Dean "You just don't know," "You just don't know." Dean said back to me "Yes I do, Yes I do." The dog hair was placed into the museum.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Pate get a calendar, man. vedauwoo is precambrain, way before mammoths,, the wyde abides....
btw isn't #1 a yates? used one like it on the fa of Lucille, '88, still on my rack. Perhaps made for excalibur? used it there too...
and yeah those biners are hollow stock.
don' know about that other shit
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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#1 Yates Big Dude, as to the why it was made.... capitalism.
#3 Giant Air Voyager for helo slingloads.
#4 Ankh on some hippy that is a famous climber with an acid induced shirt.
#7 Raffi Bedyain (sp) ???
Side note: That dog hair story is really kinda creeping me out.....
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
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Klaus, You have been dangling that chrome plated Dolt hanger "carrot" in front of me for over a decade. I know your treasure means so much to you that why do you even offer to sell it? Put it on your key chain and show your prize to the world and never sell it! I am taking a guess that you are the amazing Eric Kohl. Eric years ago you sent me a double gear sling that you signed and can be seen on the front cover of Climbing Magazine #162. Your climbing accomplishments are incredible! In this climbing issue it shows pictures of you hooking up the Porcelain wall which is a wall that has no features. I am surprised that there are even edges for you to hook on. Absolutely terrifying!!! I told myself that I will never climb with this guy since it would only prove that his balls are ten times bigger than mine. You would leave me crying in the fetal position for weeks from the fear I would have encountered. Your double gear sling is going to the Yosemite Museum soon, where it belongs.
I do not remember the shape of your chrome plated Dolt hanger, but Jim Bridwell came through for me back in 2000. You are totally awesome Eric, and please be safe out there on your adventures.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Marty, I wish you'd write a book. You have some great stories to tell and your enthusiasm comes through so strongly. Love it!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
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I was thumbing through a Climbing Magazine years ago and came across this advertisement for a new company called the ASCA, which stands for the American Safe Climbing Association. This was a new company who's mission was to replace old mangled bolt hangers on the massive walls in Yosemite National Park. At that time my biggest passion was collecting different bolt hangers, since I did not have money to buy sets of cams for my collection. Bolt hangers were relatively cheap and I assumed that there were not many different hangers manufactured in the world. This could be an easy monopoly to achieve. A piece of metal with two holes punched through it, that is bent in half. I called the ASCA and a kid named Chris McNamara answered the phone. I asked if there was any way I could obtain the trash hangers he was pulling off of the routes while he was replacing the new bolts.
Chris said no problem, he was throwing them out anyways. When he told me that, I almost fell over in shock. There were not many bolt hanger manufacturers from 1940 - 1975, so basically everything was homemade. Homemade like using bed frames to create the hangers out of, and basically if it was a piece of metal that two holes could be drill into it, it was made into a hanger. By todays standards yes these look like junk, but to me these hangers were created by the climbing Gods themselves. Chris and I decided to make a deal and I sent him boxes of new hangers and he sent me the removed trash hangers back in return. I instructed him to keep track of were the hangers came from by stapling a paper to each hanger and also send me a paper stating it was authentic. Chris developed the letterhead for the ASCA paperwork stating each hangers authenticity. Thank you Chris again for going through all of this work for me.
During this time I finished writing my guidebook to Queen Creek Canyon in Superior Arizona. Climbing Magazine did a book review on my Queen Creek Guidebook and totally slammed it stating that it did not make sense that I wrote such a "tome" to a nothing area with just 30' routes. Within a few days the editors at Climbing Magazine were swamped by hundreds of letters slamming the magazine on what they had wrote. It was obvious that somebody that had never been to Queen Creek Canyon wrote the negative review. Queen Creek Canyon was also was the home of Jim Waugh's annual Phoenix Bouldering Contest which drew over 600 competitors, and 1000+ spectators. In apology, the editors decided to dedicate the entire editorial section in the following magazine to the Queen Creek Guidebook. Four complete magazine pages were all about my guidebook. Climbing Magazine went one step further and stopped reviewing all guidebooks due to the problem. For years following, the only book reviews were for only fiction and non-fiction climbing books.
Chris McNamara was becoming a big name and was really tearing up the Yosemite scene. He became front cover magazine news and was becoming so fast at aid climbing, I am sure he was on Hans Florine's heels. Chris started writing his first book "Yosemite Big Walls, supertopo first edition" which he came to me for advice on how to create it. When the book came out it was amazing!!! His route topos, photos, pitch charts, etc were all futuristic compared to the older Yosemite guides. What an amazing body of information he put into that book. Chris you are awesome! He sent me a free copy of his book when it was completed so I could check it out. When I flipped to the acknowledgment page, I was blown away. My name was in the top four mentioned people that he thanked, just under Tom Frost's name. Then below that was 20 or so names of all super famous Yosemite climbers that also helped him on his book. I am still honored to this day for what he had done for me.
Chris continued on his quest tearing up the climbing scene everywhere. Eventually we fell distant to each other as his fame grew and he turned the ASCA over to Greg Barnes, which I believe is still carrying on the rebolting mission to this day. Since then as well, the number of different hangers I have has topped 1100. No two hangers of the 1100 are the same. All different by shape, size, bolt hole size differences, and colors.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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so Marty, do you have old issues of Arizona Climber? Been looking for the Prescott Pump issue.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
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Royal Robbins is a major famous climber and it took a while for me to figure out how to approach him. I saw him many times at the trade shows, but he was always very busy and I did not want to take up any of his time. Royal Robbins had a company at the time named Royal Robbins Clothing. Finally I took a deep breath and warmly approached him. He looked at me and said sorry he was busy. Understandable since at the Outdoor Retailers Show, companies show off their new products to sell, and work on getting pre-season commitments out of the retailers who carry their products. This is an important show for manufacturers and I was just a fly-by climber just trying to say hello. I stopped by his booth the next day just to discover he had already left for home. I was left in disappointment but the game was on!
Six months later was the show again, and I had only four days to connect with Royal. The trade shows each are only four days long. I didn't want to pester him on the first day, nor did I want him to escape the show without me shaking his hand. I decided that the third day was going to be my approach. During the first two days of the show I made sure I went by his booth to make sure that he was actually at the show. He was there! Yes!!! Finally on the third day I saw a moment to sneak into his booth for my greeting. He said hello to me, asked why I was there and gave me a handshake and then started to walk away.
I was devastated that he was walking away from me and was being kinda rude. I however understand the importance of the trade show, and I was the one that was hindering him from getting his job done. But this time I exclaimed "Royal just one more thing." I put together a climbing gear photo foldout to show him, just to see if there was any way I could obtain even one piece of his gear for my museum. I assumed my foldout photo display would create curiosity to him, but it didn't. He threw it to the side and said "that's nice," and walked away. I felt as though my girlfriend just told me she was breaking up with me as I stood there in my puddle of dismay.
Six months later was the next show and I found a great photo of Royal to get his signature on. The game is on again! This time he was warmer to me as he signed the photo, smiled, and once again swooshed me out of his booth. Wow! But this time there was no puddle, since I was getting used to the "dumped" feeling. My friends said that maybe his ego is so huge that I was just the little person. I disagreed and stated "He just does not see me." So I changed my plan of attack.
Ok here we go again. Six months later was the next show, he is present at the show, let's get him on the third day, etc. My technique was dialed in but this time I noticed that Liz his wife was at the show also. Hmmmmm…… I just so happened to have this photo with me, of Liz and Royal standing on top of Half Dome. My answer was now clear.
I waited until "Beer-30" and saw Royal over by the La Sportiva booth talking to many friends. Liz stood behind him like a fly on the wall and nobody was talking to her, but ten or so of Royals friends were talking to him. I approached Liz, introduced myself, and had a conversation with her like she had just come across a girlfriend that she had not seen in many years. We were laughing loudly and were having fun, as Royal would occasionally look over his shoulder to see what was going on.
Eventually I asked for HER signature which she was blown away when asked. This really made her day! I exclaimed to her on how great it was to meet her and to share gut busting laughs with her at the show, then I started walking away with my back to Royal. I waked 15', turned around and noticed Royal was staring at me in my eyes. I exclaimed to Royal in front of his friends that "I guess while I am here I could get your signature also." Royal's shoulders shrieked as he saw who I was. Since that moment Royal knows who I am and we have shared many laughs together at the shows.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
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People, I have noticed that many posts on this Marty forum have been removed. Please note that on all of my posts on every forum, I have not removed any of my words, or changed what I had to say. Please note paragraph 11 in the Marty story states, "If everybody would just talk out of their heart, everybody else would hear their message. Many peoples words have no weight to them so they are just shooting off at the mouth. In Arizona it only takes 20 minutes to purchase a gun. I can get that 9mm, or 44 mag, or the Judge hand gun Sweet!, that shotgun or anything that is on the store shelf at the sportsman's store in just 20 minutes. That seems scary to some, right?
Not to me because I find guns are fun to play with. Shooting at people is not what I like to do. I do not think that people understand that the words they are using on these forums represent the bullets that are fired from the gun, not the gun itself. So your words that you are leaving continue to scar others for life over giving inspiration. A very wise man once told me that if you are very mad at somebody and feel the need to send them a vicious letter, wait 24 hours before you mail it. If you notice, 99% of the time the letter does not get mailed, and you tear it up saying, "What was I thinking!" This wise man was my dad. These forums are fun but so many people only wait two seconds to "mail" their letter, over really thinking about what they are doing.
I do not mind if you wish to shoot your words at me on this Marty thread. I welcome it! I mentioned that I am wearing a suit of armor that cannot be penetrated. In the end, yourself and THOUSANDS of others will see that you were only scarring yourself with your own words. In the future you will look back 10 years at the posts you were sending and they will all still be there reflecting the true person that YOU are. Your new girlfriend will see them, your family, your parents, your new boss at work, your grown up kids, your close friends……..everybody!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
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So Far - HISTORY LESSON VOL 1
Unknown #1 - Yes Jaybro / Russ, Yates Big Dude but this is a bigger Dude. Still the question on why was the bigger one made?
Unknown #2 - Mighty Hiker nails the correct answer and in fast time too, nice!
Unknown #3 - Russ, I will have to check into this further to see if your answer is correct. I was told it was for something else similar. Mfg by who?
Unknown #4 - Russ -Yes yes but from where and who.
Unknown #5 - Wade I will say your answer is correct at 1977. Mine 1978. Good Job!
Unknown #6 - No guesses?
Unknown #7 - Not Raffi. But who?
THE ANSWERS WILL BE REVEALED TONIGHT (SUNDAY) AFTER DINNER, AZ TIME.
Photos for these questions are shown on the pages previous of this post.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 10, 2011 - 06:28pm PT
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hey marty give ur gear to these future rock stud's.
they climb at stoney point!
cheers!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
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Pyro, The Stoney Point smiles you guys have are worth more than my entire collection. You guys are awesome! I am feeling that Pyro actually has a bigger heart than his "boaring" (which should be "boring") first posts showed of him. With you keeping your integrity of leaving your posts here, you are doing a good job of redeeming yourself back to the "Nice List." Hmmm...
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
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HISTORY LESSON VOL 1 - ANSWERS
Unknown #1 - Question: What is the name of this Cam monster and why was it made?
Answer: Jaybro is first with the Yates, and Russ mentions Big Dude first, but this is only half of the answer. These Yates Big Dude monster cams were created for Greenpeace for Ingrid Gordon, and used to scale up cracks on a building in Canada in assisting to hang protest banners. John Yates created only 6 of these monster cams and they are classified as size #9 compared to his Big Dudes #6, and #7. Circa 1990s. Ingrid made a point of giving me a huge hug at every climbing show. She is an awesome person! Ingrid has been in jail more times that anybody I know because she believes in what she is doing is right for the environment.
Unknown #2 - Question: What do these three carabiners below have in common besides the obvious?
Answer: Mighty Hiker nails the answer in a quick time, nice! If you cut them in half you will see that the carabiners are hollow. The manufacturers wanted to create lightweight but yet strong carabiners so they created a hollow carabiner by using aluminum hollow rod stock. I am not sure if there are any hollow carabiners manufactured today? Not exactly sure on the circa, but late 1960s / early 1970s? I know that the SMC rappel ring is still mfgd out of hollow aluminum stock.
Unknown #3 - Question: What is this thing? What was it made for?
Answer: guesses yes, and Russ gets close on the answer. Created by Yates, which I think should be named an "extreamer." Russ mentions for Helo slingloads where I was told they were used to tie down airplanes on Navy aircraft carriers while transporting the planes to the lower decks. Originally the Navy was using chains on the elevator tie downs but the "non-giving" chains were causing cracks on the planes fuselages as the boat swayed to and fro on the ocean swells. The Yates huge screamer pulls apart when jerked over its breaking limit. Circa 2007ish.
I will see John in three weeks and make this answer solid for yous that are curious.
Unknown #4 - Question: What is this historical climbing item that has been seen by tens of thousands of climbers?
Answer: guesses yes and Russ is onto the right idea. Russ says: some famous hippie wearing acid induced shirt. But this answer is not solid enough for me so I am giving it one more round. But lets look at it from further back. Hint: Historical Yosemite item.
Unknown #5 - Question: What year was this chalk bag created?
Answer: I am going to give this one to Wade Icey at circa 1977. I was told 1978 but that is besides the point. What I wanted to show is that William "Dolt "Feuerer committed suicide around Christmas 1971. Pre Dolt symbol had a piton design to it, and after beginning 1972 Dolt label was changed to Capital Letters shown here. Doltpatch from Tom Taber, DOLT Patch from Greg Grant. Greg created climbing cartoons in some of the early Climbing magazines.
Unknown #6 - Question: What year is this medal from? No winner, no guesses, hmmm… This was an easy answer to Google.
Answer: Year 1995.
The first X Games was named the "Extreme Games" and was in year 1995. From June 24 through July 1, the Extreme Games was held in Newport, Providence and Middletown, R.I., and Mount Snow, VT. Athletes competed in 27 events in nine sport categories. 198,000 spectators attended the first Extreme Games. After enthusiastic response from the athletes, organizers, spectators and sponsors, ESPN decides to hold the event the following year, instead of every two years as originally announced. In October, it is announced that Rhode Island would be the location for the 1996 event.
In January 1996 the event name Extreme Games officially changes to the "X Games." The primary reasons for the change are to allow easier translation to international audiences and better branding opportunities. The medals shown are samples which were donated to me by Jim Waugh (1995) and Sandy Draus (1996). You can see that there is no strap holder loop attached to the medals for them to be hung.
Unknown #7 - Question: Who made this piton and rappel hanger? guesses yes but incorrect.
Answer: Doug Black 1966.
Doug black was an Arizona resident and he and Bill Forrest (Forrest Mountaineering) created the Arizona Mountaineering Club (AMC) in 1964. The club still exists today. The interesting clue to this question was the stainless steel rings and welded area on the angle piton. Not many manufacturers welded the top of their angles together. This was a tough question, but many of Doug Blacks hangers still can bee seen today in the mountains throughout Arizona.
We still have Unknown Question #4 alive for the history gurus to figure out. Hint again: Yosemite historical item. Seen by tens of thousands of climbers, and seen still today!
Next weekend I will post HISTORY LESSON VOL 2. Don't forget to check it out.
Good answers to all who played.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 10, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
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#4: FA of Sea of Dreams talisman, worn by Bridwell, with that same shirt in the pic from Yosemite Climber. (where the team was purportedly on acid for the photo)
edit: do you have that F'n shirt?????
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 10, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
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Marty: Thanks for the quiz. Mighty Hiker beat me on the only question I could answer. # 2 Hollow carabiners.
Here's an ad that helps to date them.
I agree! You should write a climbing gear history guide!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jul 10, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
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Unknown #3 - Question: What is this thing? What was it made for?
Answer: guesses yes, and Russ gets close on the answer. Created by Yates, which I think should be named an "extreamer." Russ mentions for Helo slingloads where I was told they were used to tie down airplanes on Navy aircraft carriers while transporting the planes to the lower decks.
Hmm. That, or it was for a payload fairing in space. Folks had some bang back trouble deploying satellites, crushing them when they were deployed. Had always heard that Yates designed a sling that would softly allow the payload fairing to open, without a snap back which had destroyed a spendy load. Neat!
Great history, Marty. Cheers!
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 10, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
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I know that the SMC rappel ring is still mfgd out of hollow aluminum stock.
IIRC, they are not hollow. They are rolled from a flat, donut shaped, piece of aluminum sheet metal. Notice the groove/seam around one side of the ring.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 12:36am PT
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Russ, You are the winner and YES, I have that shirt! I am eating dinner with the kids right now but I will give you the shirt history soon. Look at the photo of the three standing in front of El Cap. If you zoom into the spot near / under Longs cigarette or under Bridwell's hand, you will see the carved out button I showed. History coming soon!
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 11, 2011 - 12:47am PT
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Marty, Russ only beat me to it because I wasn't watching the thread. I had a slight advantage knowing you had the shirt but didn't piece it together before the clue. Dang.
Your thread is picking up steam, this is the spirit in which we love to see in you!
Long live MA's!
~S
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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Brian, I will be at the OR show in three weeks and will find out the true answer from John Yates on what the screamer was created for. I thought he told me it was for aircraft carriers. I am curious but can wait.
Are you going to the show? Is this a dumb question since you are always at the show?
I tried to post the Nose shirt story, but I guess this page line is kinda full? This is what Supertopo says. I guess we need to bump this to the next page line?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
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Last bump,
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
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I moved into a house with my good friend Scott and a friend of his, and later Scott met his wife to be named Debbie. All of us decided to go tubing down the Salt River one day since it was summer again in Arizona. We purchased a new product on the market called Bullfrog sunscreen which we applied it all over us before we hit the water. We were experienced tubers so we had our own cooler tube, radio tube, and covered the black tubes with big towels before sitting in the water with them so we would not get burned. It was a hot day so we kept reapplying the sunscreen being smart and being one step ahead of the hot sun. I was wearing a red hippie shirt that I purchased from a Goodwill a few years prior. This shirt I kept unbuttoned so my chest was exposed and my shoulders were covered. It was a fun trip!
An hour later once we got home we noticed how burnt we really were and the blisters started appearing. Scott was from Hawaii and he was totally fine and instantly tanned. Debbie and I were more of the white skin breed where when tanned, we would become a shade below antique white. Debbie started getting finger size blisters all over her legs and my stomach become one huge blister. The next day I visited a doctor who instructed me to keep vitamin E liquid on the burn at all times or I would really feel the pain. The healing process took three weeks where I could not work, wear a shirt and pretty much sat the entire time. We contacted Bullfrog with the problem where they were going to send us each a full years supply of sunscreen in apology. I do not know what that amounts to since I told them I would never trust putting their product on me again so do not send it. I was just informing them of the problem. Bullfrog sunscreen is now a big name and is on many of the store shelves across the country.
Why am I telling you this? The red hippie shirt that I was wearing is the exact same shirt that Jim Bridwell is wearing in the famous 1975 "One Day Ascent of The Nose" photo. I threw away my shirt after the tubing trip but was amazed that it was totally the same shirt. Many years later at one of the trade shows, I was talking to Jim Bridwell about the clothing he was wearing in that famous Nose photo. He got a laugh out of my story and found it amusing. I asked if he still had any of the clothing especially the pants that he was wearing. He said "Why would you want those pants, they have a hole in them near the knee?" That was exactly why I wanted the pants. You see, in collecting clothing memorabilia, an item is always more valuable if it has a rip or tear in it, especially if you can see the tear in a photo or video. This way there is no doubt that it was the original over just another store bought fake.
Jim mentioned that he may still have the shirt, but may have thrown it away as well. Jim searched his house and was able to find it then called me saying "Come on over and get it!" I told him to do nothing with it! Do not even wash it and just leave it as it was! I was pretty excited YES! Did I mention YES!!! (This yes goes along with a little dance I did around the house when I found out). Jim said that he would sell it to me for a few hundred bucks.
At the time, my friend Rich was going through a bad time in his life drinking and doing drugs and contemplating suicide. Rich has always been my best friend, and I always watched after him and still do to this day. I figured that it was time to cheer him up and to go on a fun road trip. So drive to San Diego to visit the ocean, then drive up through Tacquitz and climb there a little, then cruise through Palm Desert, and then return home to Arizona. I called Jim and mentioned that we would be going by his house on our trip, and to get the shirt ready for me. I did not mention to Rich that we were stopping at Jim's house.
The trip was a blast and we shared many laughs and then while in Palm Desert, I told Rich that I have to stop at a friends house to pick something up. Jim's house was very easy to find. Peggy and Jim were home and invited us in where Rich gave Jim a look of "I know you." Rich is an older climber than me who has never missed reading a Climbing Magazine. It finally dawned on him that he was standing in front of Jim Bridwell. Rich didn't know if he should run away or to start jumping up and down like some school girl. Jim came over and broke the ice saying to Rich, "It is very nice to meet you." I noticed this blue paisley shirt hanging off of a hanger on the wall, but I walked right by it and stood wondering why Jim has not given me his shirt yet. Jim looked at me and said "That is the shirt!" Ummmmm, I was expecting the red one that he was wearing in the Nose photo and I became disappointed of what I was purchasing.
I was really wanting the red shirt since it was in my sunburnt tubing memory, and was I somewhat bummed out. I paid for it anyways and shrugged my shoulders. Jim then filled me in on the history of this blue paisley shirt. Jim found this piece of fabric and while he was sitting around Camp 4, he would work on it on his off climbing days. He decided to create a shirt with it. This entire shirt was hand sewn and created by Jim Bridwell. The snap buttons around the collar, the button loops, all the sewing, everything. At that time my trophy started looking less tainted and I became excited about the shirt. I noticed that there was a strange button made of wood in the shape of a cross with a circle on top. Jim said that originally there were 5 wood buttons on it however, the one that was there was the only one that lasted through his climbing adventures. Jim carved the wood buttons out of Manzanita branches from plants in Yosemite. Before we left the Bridwell residence, Jim looked at me and said that he knew that I was getting a screaming deal here. I reassured Jim that his amazing shirt was in the best hands it could be in.
Rich and I continued on our adventure and I believe that Rich held the shirt all the way home. Rich was alive again like new batteries had been installed. He thanked me many times for my surprise to him. Rich in years later was approached by two girls from the Mormon Church which took him in as one of their own. He suddenly stopped smoking, drinking and everything and found enlightenment with his new world. Rich now has been clean for 8+ years and teaches scripture to teenage Mormon kids every Sunday. I know that people say weird things about the Mormons from time to time, but I have a huge respect for them since they saved my friend Rich from total collapse in life. Rich is very happy!
I called Jim again and asked if he could recreate more of the wood buttons on the shirt. He said that he would need some manzanita to carve the buttons out of. I told him the Manzanita was on the way. At that time Rich and I were working on creating new climbing routes at our secret area named Northern Devils Canyon, which is near Superior Arizona. Jim received the Manzanita and carved 6 new buttons out of the branches, sent them back to me, and I personally sewed 4 of the 6 onto the shirt in the places where the missing buttons originally existed. The only original button is the second one down from the top, black thread. It can easily be seen in the 1975 "Nose in a Day" photo just below Jim Bridwell's hand.
After Billy Westbay, Jim Bridwell and John Long completed the Nose in a Day adventure, they visited a Salvation Army Thrift store, purchased these hippie duds especially for this famous Yosemite photo. Jim wanted to wear his shirt for the photo but John Long could not fit into the red button down vest shirt purchased from the store. so Jim and John switched shirts and the rest is history. All of the clothing was eventually thrown away except for this shirt that Jim Bridwell had created. I never washed it since I wanted it to still have the Camel non-filter cigarette aroma that Jim is so well known for. I am so honored in life to be possessing such a great Yosemite piece of this caliber in my home.
I know that this historic shirt if properly advertised could fetch around $100,000 or more, but I want it to go to the Yosemite Museum for free. This shirt was another item that almost got destroyed in a flood that happened at my house a few years ago. I have always known that this amazing piece of history belongs in the Yosemite Museum.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 11, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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4 thumbs up!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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Jul 11, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
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another note on yates big cams. one could say he was inspired by our early large cams, probably the first ones made for resale, though few were...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jul 11, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
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Neat history on the shirt, but:
I know that this historic shirt if properly advertised could fetch around $100,000 or more,
Methinks you are 100% around-the-bend delusional with that.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 11, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
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Hey Marty know anything about this?
It belongs to my 60 yr old brother and I don't remember when he got it. Wasn't there a blast of Dolt™ gear sometime after the time of those chalkbags?
Just asked my bro about it, he said,"I've had that forever..."
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 11, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
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Jaybro,
Assuming that is the original buckle on the Dolt fanny pack, it would be no older than 1977.
This from Nexus (subsidiary is Fastex):
"Plastic buckles and closure components have been designed and manufactured for over 25 years by ITW Nexus. In fact, in 1977, we invented the original Side Release buckle that revolutionized the closure market."
So it says the buckle was invented in 1977. It doesn't say what year the first one was released...
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
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The only incorrect thing on the Nose authenticity paper is that the famous photo was taken by Billy Westbay's wife. Jim told me he had mistaken the answer but I do not remember who he said took the actual photo.
Juan Maderita - I knew that but forgot. Thanks for correcting me that the SMC rap ring is rolled aluminum, not tubing stock. Thanks all for dialing in the History on these climbing gear items.
Fritz, - That carabiner ad you show is awesome. Do you know if this is the first year that the carabiner was sold? It does however give us a timeline to dial in the answer.
Elcapinyoazz - A simple Jimi Hendrix shirt that he wore in a concert can fetch 3-7 million. If Jimi Hendrix created the shirt himself it would probably double that. Jim Bridwell is not a famous rock musician, but he is a rather famous Yosemite Icon. This shirt was hand created during the tail end of the hippie era and there is only one in existence. I say 100K not for me, but for somebody who collects one of a kind stuff. Salathe piton is not one of a kind. With many authenticity papers which accompany the item and with it properly advertised in a New York auction environment, yes 100K or more would be my guess. But this is just a guess. Jim is still alive which still keeps the value lowered. Don't get me wrong Jim, I really like you and want you to live forever. I place this item in the Yosemite Museum for free since I will let Ken determine the value of it. Ken is paying for the insurance plan.
FTOR - Who are you and what a beautiful cam! Is this one of your creations or is it a Yates prototype/first edition? Stephane has a Yates Big Dude similar to this one with a rigid stem also. My prototype/first edition Big Dude has a flexible stem shown below.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
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Jaybro - I am not sure exactly when these bags were created, but I have seen many of them so they definitely are not rare. My friend purchased his in the early 1980s. If I remember correctly, Don Lauria on the "Dolt Stories" thread talks about the new Dolt owners that took over the business. I have not had time to locate them for answers. Nice bag though!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
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Drljefe - Arizona Climber was created by Mike Covington in association with Runout Productions. At first the publication was 8 pages for each issue, for the first 4 publications, then became like a thin magazine. 10 publications ran from June 1991 to May 1995. I am missing #6. Mike worked as a designer publicist before starting Climbmax Climbing Center in Tempe Az. The question you asked was do I have the Prescott Pump issue which I show below.
If this does not answer what you are looking for, send me a member to member email with your address and I will send you a photocopy.
Please note the final paragraph on page 2.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
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Fritz - Do you know what year the Otto Wiedemann carabiner was created?
Dingus Milktoast - The key words are Famous Climber, and Homemade. But I am not here to argue about assumptions.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 12, 2011 - 02:11am PT
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Marty, wow, thanks! !!!
Here I thought you'd snubbed me. Then I realize you probably had to sort through mountains of ACTUAL climbing memorabilia to look for that article. ..and I appreciate it!
That was a fun day.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2011 - 09:29am PT
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Vulcan,
Yes you are correct about your statement about Chris Sharma helping out with "Andys" Camp.
The point I was trying to make is that Chris is stepping up to help others, not running around saying look at me look at me! The media that follows him around gets his present stories and he still has to show up occasionally in the magazines due to Sponsor demands. If Chris had it his way he would be chilling next to a beautiful stream staring at a huge overhanging wall of rock with nobody around except his wife and closest friends. Chris has the right idea in life! Living peacefully!
Jim: Many rescue teams throw away carabiners that they accidentally drop. Climbers, especially aid climbers will use their twisted old even damaged carabiners to the very end. I speak from my own experience as well. Thanks for your many posts!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2011 - 09:39am PT
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In January 1999, Dale Stewart called me and asked if I could help on a project at the Arizona Science Center in downtown Phoenix. Many of you know Dale, he owns the Arizona Hiking Shack in Phoenix. The IMAX movie "Everest" was coming to the Science Center and not just the movie, David Breashears was going to be there in person. I never knew much about David, but I was amazed on how this guy didn't just climb up Everest, he lugged up a ton of huge cameras and massive film reels to capture his Everest creation. I instantly respected David Breashears, and was excited that I was part of the fun.
Dale and I were instructed to create two climbing routes on the outside second floor wall of the Science Center. It was no big deal since it was a 20' low angle slab and a cake job. Hammer-drilling rock always makes me feel powerful like "Rambo." We installed about one hundred drop set anchors, installed Chris Raypole's Climbing Dynamics Holds to them, and created two easy climbing routes for people who wanted to try climbing during the "Everest" event. Dale and I noticed that we had a few extra days before the event started, so we talked to the coordinator at the Science Center and mentioned that we could dress the show up a bit. Dale has the climbing store, Marty has the climbing connections. We decided to create a climbing scene and display in the main lobby in front of the IMAX theater.
I am not a big ice gear collector so I had to reach out to people to find some cool display items. I heard about this guy that lives in Prescott Arizona, which is only 1 1/2 hours away from Phoenix. This guy is a disabled climber named Tom Whittaker, who made the first one legged/disabled ascent of Everest. No he didn't just use one leg to climb the mountain, he had a prosthetic lower leg section that had different crampon parts that he could attach to it. So I drove to Prescott to meet this legend. Tom and I instantly hit it off as he served me crumpets and tea and we shared laughs. He didn't just let me borrow some of his gear, we were able to have him give slide show presentations to the visitors, and talks of his Everest ascent at the Science Center. This was turning out pretty cool!
I had Tom's prosthetic leg in the display, summit oxygen tank and many more items of interest. I called climbers in town and borrowed gear from Bill Dacier, Tim Penner, Wally Vegors, Brett Bigelow, along with some Karabin items as well. The display turned out fantastic! Dale went overboard with a full basecamp display with manikins on portaledges and more. It was classic since the Science Center only asked for a simple two route attraction. Tom Whittaker's story was beyond touching, and easily drew a tear to many. Tom you are totally an amazing inspirational person! It finally came the time for the showing of the Everest movie, and I was excited to finally meet David Breashears.
David gave a short speech before the movie started, and then disappeared. The Everest movie was incredible! What an amazing job he did filming this beautiful, but at many times, vicious peak. After the movie I searched around for David and he was nowhere. I asked "Where did he go?" I was told that he was on a very tight schedule so I was left standing there with the Everest movie poster unsigned, all alone and bummed. Suddenly I saw him and stopped him as he walked by with his entourage. He said "Wonderful Display", signed my poster and walked away all within 45 seconds. I stared calmly at this legend as he disappeared from my sight, but I knew that he was just too busy to see me. Not a big deal! The whole Everest Festival that Dale/Marty/Tom/Science Center created was the best!
A few years later my divorce happened. I had nowhere to go but a small apartment that my kids and I made the best of. Somehow we crammed everything in our life into a few hundred square feet. I was able to get a job at the Phoenix Rock Gym, which I am very grateful to Paul Diefenderfer for since nobody else was hiring at the time. Life was tough, but I remained chin-up in my faith and knew all was going to be okay. In December 2002, I received a phone call from Kathi Reichert who was working for the City of Phoenix Parks Department at the time. She asked me if I could create a display for an upcoming event at the Phoenician Resort in Phoenix. Kathi had a simple table top plastic display cube to for the display, which would be placed outside the main room of the event. I agreed to create it and found this display to be another cake volunteer job.
I asked Kathi what the event was about, and it turned out to be a $50 per seat major charitable event on December 12, called "Everest: Mountain Without Mercy,'" and the main speaker was David Breashears. Cool! I was real busy at the time juggling work, thinking about the display, getting used to this new child support idea, and Christmas was just two weeks away. I decided that I could put together the display on the fly, and could gather the gear from my apartments crammed closets the night before the Event. I arrived home at 5:00 that night and there was a small puddle outside my front door. I lifted my eyebrows in amazement of the mystery. The front of my apartment has many tall windows and I was located on the first floor, in a cozy corner of the complex. On the outside, the windows were completely dry, but on the inside of the windows, it looked like a lawn sprinkler was spraying everywhere as water rolled down the them.
I hastily opened my front door and felt a swoosh of heat hit me in my face as I stared at my apartment being flooded by very hot water. It felt like it was 160 degrees in there and visually I could see 2 1/2 to 3 inches of water pooled up on my apartment floor. Luckily I didn't just run into the apartment since I noticed on my bookcase that all of my Chouinard catalogs and many historic books were on the bottom shelf, and the water was within 1/8 inch of destroying them. I tipped toed in like the tooth fairy. I mean, I was not even breathing as I slowly reached the catalogs to save them. As I stared at the floating presents around the Christmas tree, I called the apartment manager and insisted that he has two seconds to get to my apartment before I kick in the door of the unoccupied apartment, which was two doors down from me.
We discovered that a hot water pipe, which was the main pipe for the entire complex, had ruptured under my bathroom floor, and the pressure of it having nowhere to go forced the hot water into my apartment. Every wall, picture, cabinets inside and out was dripping down with water from the hot water mist. Myself and the apartment manager moved almost everything I had until 4:00 in the morning to save whatever I could from being ruined. Keep in mind, we were not just moving a few couches, you also had hundreds of catalogs, thousands of pieces of gear and the moving seemed like it was never going to end. No folks, no tears from Marty! This was response time not remorse time! I didn't even say one swear word, and I don't think I even said one word to the apartment manager while the moving process was happening. Oh yeah, I still have to get display items together for the big Everest event which was starting in just a few hours.
By 8:00 in the morning I met Kathy over at the Phoenician Resort and began setting up the display. I was beyond spent and felt like I had climbed Everest solo in one push. My calves were killing me and the blisters on my feet from my soaked tennis shoes were wide open. David Breashears came up from behind me to see the display I was creating. He mentioned to me that he wanted me to be present at the event. I started to tell David that there was "NO WAY, YOU DON'T EVEN UNDERSTAND," and he cut my explanation off insisting that I go home, get cleaned up, and be back here within two hours. "Lord, does this ever end?" When I arrived home, two guys were jackhammering the floor of my apartment and had a 4 foot pile of dirt in my hallway. The entire complex water supply was shut down. From the jackhammering, I noticed the mud splats that covered the walls of my apartment all over all of my signed superstar pictures that I had hung throughout. I had no more time, but had to use hand wipes to bathe, remember there was no water, and find something to wear and get back to the resort for the start of the event.
Since it was Christmas time, I figured the colorful Christmas sweater would work okay since everything else I had was in a great pile. Man my energy was gone as I walked up to the Phoenician Resort wondering why I even was there. Just outside the doors of the great room, David met me and said that I was just in time. He told me to follow him and then he escorted me into the room. I immediately felt like I was out of place as I noticed over 200 people all wearing black and white suits and tuxedos. The women were even dressed to code. My colorful Christmas sweater sure stood out! I saw that Paul Diefenderfer my boss was there in the back of the room, and my Xwifes company owner Preston McMurray was there in the crowd also.
So 200 or so of these people were owners of the biggest companies in Arizona. Gulp, but I followed David where he escorted me to the very front table of the room. I sat down feeling so out of place and knew nobody, then David walked up on stage and gave a beautiful presentation about himself. At my table was the president of APS, president of Motorola, and so many other huge people that were looking at me and not talking to me. Before the presentation was over, David made an announcement, had me come up on stage, and said to the crowd how much he appreciated everything I had done for him every time he came to Arizona. He gave me a big hug in front of the clapping crowd where my hug back to him almost crushed him. Once his speech was finished, he sat next to me for the dinner.
I assume there was an extra seat reserved in case David brought somebody with him to the event. It was at this time that I truly recognized that there definitely is a God. Think about it! Everybody paid to be there, I did not. Everybody was an owner or was associated with companies worth over one million dollars, and I had nothing and was in the process of just about losing everything. Everybody was dressed beautifully, and I still was wearing wet tennis shoes and was wearing a LOUD colorful sweater that stood out like a beacon. I became the honored guest where David was the speaker, and then sat beside me, and I ate dinner with him. That was a huge moment in my life!
David, I am so grateful for meeting you the way it unfolded. You are an amazing speaker and your climbing talents will be well noted in the history books. Thank you for enhancing my life beyond anything I thought possible.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2011 - 10:01am PT
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This time we forgot to make hotel reservations. My friend Robert and I arrived into Salt Lake City for the summer Trade show, grabbed the keys to our Alamo rental car, and were off to the show. As usual the excitement was on and we were probably dancing in the car in anticipation to shaking hands with all of the stars, and seeing many of our trade show friends again. You see, we were here to represent! Represent our paparazzi passion which flowed in our blood like an ocean. Robert was still new to this fun, but was becoming really good at it. During the show he would sneak away from me and then appear an hour later smiling. He never discloses what he was up to until we got to our hotel room at night.
Robert and I were in somewhat competition with each other, on who could get the most signatures from the most superstar climbers at the show. Robert Olson is also know as the Olson Climbing Collection. He really connects good with all of the young rock stars where I knew of many of the older stars from the past. I always thought I had it made, since most these older rock stars became company representatives, and Robert had not caught onto that fact just yet. You could call it my "failsafe" reserve.
The first day of the show had just finished, and we lugged off our prize booty to the car and then started looking for a hotel to stay for the three nights. You see, at a show with tens of thousands of people attending, there should be no problem finding a hotel, right? We drove around in circles in what seemed like eternity to find a vacancy sign. There was nothing! I mean nothing except for this place called the Capital Motel. At the amazing cost of only $22.00 a night, we knew already that we were in trouble. The room was scary, and both of us leaned our head into the room to visually see what was there before entering. We then discovered that the hotel was going to be the adventure, the show was just the appetizer.
It was a room that had a smaller second side bed room and a bathroom. The bed was up on milk crates and was balanced in such a way that if you sat down too quickly, the bed would collapse. Kinda like playing the game "Don't break the ice." The bed collapsed many times and we constantly had to rebuild it. All of the closet doors were nailed shut. Like 10 nails in each door which were just smacked into the front lip of the door by some amateur carpenter or something. The bathroom light was an old fashioned style, two bulb unit where it had a push button switch between the bulbs, but the switch was pushed inside the unit. So to turn on the light, you had to put your finger into the hole and blindly feel around for the push button and hope you did not electrocute yourself by accidentally hitting the wires. Yipe! I believe I said to Robert, "You go first!" The bathroom window didn't shut and was opened about 14." But we accepted the Capital as our home for the three nights.
We were exhausted! We turned the lights off to finally hit the hay and suddenly, the loud music started. There was a bar next door, where the festivities started at 10:00 and went on through the night. The bar was located just outside of our bathroom window. The only sleep we got was from 2:00am till 5:00am, where we were abruptly awakened by a crack head pounding on our door which was asking to purchase more drugs from our room. Sweet! We decided to just get up then, go for a big breakfast, and get to the show. We absolutely did not want to leave our luggage in the room while at the show, so we had to pack our bags every morning, and unpack every night to protect our belongings.
At the show the next day we ran into some of our Arizona friends, JBone and Patrick Luther, who is know as Fish. Not to be confused with the real Fish who is Russ of Fish Products. Sorry about getting sidetracked but I remember Susan Peplow demanding/insisting to Patrick the he better change his nickname since her boyfriend already had that "handle." Susan scared him yes, but Patrick's nickname remained 'Fish.' JBone and Patrick had nowhere to stay so we let them share our comfortable room. What was cool is that Jason Kehl is a friend of theirs, so while we were all in the hotel room suddenly there was a knock on the door and in comes Jason. Robert always wanted to meet Jason and Jason is one of Roberts ultimate celebrities. Robert of course was in the bathroom at this time while the rest of us were having fun talking and joking with Jason. When Robert came out of the bathroom and saw Jason standing there Robert was floored in Awe. I mean he was babbling trying to say hello and almost hyperventilating. Jason was loving it!
I already got a few signatures from Jason for me, then was having fun watching Robert tripping over himself to find his photo lot to be signed. Robert was suddenly interrupted by a phone call from his wife Simona, excused himself and went into the other room to say hello. Jason was enjoying the fun, but had run to find his friends somewhere down town, and left the room. You can imagine how crushed Robert was when he excitedly came back into the room to find his ultimate hero, had left. Yes he dropped to his knees with arms extended to the sky yelling "Nooooooooo!!! Jason had actually left out of the state that night and was not present at the last day of the show. Robert however already had 75 signatures and was way ahead of me and he proudly rubbed it into my face. Wrongooo!
The last day of the show I pulled out my trump card, and I targeted the climbing reps like Conrad Anker, Bobbi Bensman, Dale Bard, Johnny Woodward, Russ Clune, Henry Barber, and so many other fantastic climbing superstars that Robert did not know. On the airplane back to Arizona, we did an overall count and I topped his signature count by 5, which Jason's signatures were the reason I came out on top.
For a side note, Jason Kehl is an amazing artist besides his climbing accomplishments. Jason is known for his skullet hair style, tearing up any boulder problem that is V10-V14, a climbing hold shaper for So-Ill products and his personal company Cryptochild, a huge magazine contributor - visual and editorial, and is really an awesome warm person. He puts his art talents into everything he does, and all of his pieces are amazing. Jason really opened the door to showing the young generation that climbing hard is still about heart and passion over the ego most kids get these days. Ever since we saw Jason compete in the 2004 PCA comp at the Front, Robert and I always wear face paint at every competition we enter. We still do not know how Jason pinned the competitors number sheet to his back while he was competing shirtless. Jason has a way of keeping one step above the obvious.
In my book Jason you totally rock!!! You are awesome!!!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jul 12, 2011 - 11:40am PT
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It's nice that you like to collect gear and all, but the fanboi slobbering over climbing "celebrities" is a bit much.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 12, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
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This whole thread is a bit much. Tone it down Marty.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Jul 12, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
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At the show the next day we ran into some of our Arizona friends, JBone and Patrick Luther, who is know as Fish. Not to be confused with the real Fish who is Russ of Fish Products. Sorry about getting sidetracked but I remember Susan Peplow demanding/insisting to Patrick the he better change his nickname since her boyfriend already had that "handle." Susan scared him yes, but Patrick's nickname remained 'Fish.
Hilarious! Nice to see people stand up for themselves against bullying. Like there is only one freaking "Fish" out there--ever watch Barney Miller?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jul 12, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
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Thanks for sharing these stories. I'm sure you have many more and hope that you keep posting some of them. You couldn't end up with a collection like yours if you didn't have unrestrained enthusiasm for the people. I like the honesty in your tales.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jul 12, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
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Great stuff and stories Marty.
As climbers, we shouldn't be unfamiliar with the concept that it often takes fanaticism to achieve excellence.
That such a keen passion has collateral effects on one's personal life isn't uncommon among climbers either.
Climbing is just now coming to the point where Marty's attempts to preserve its artifacts (and history) can be appreciated.
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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Jul 12, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
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myself, (rob o), dave a, and our design/machining mentor eben s. were hand building 1/2, 3/4, 5, 6, and 7" 'associates' quite early on. they have popped up here on occasion. i have long been promising stephane a set for the museum. of the large ones, i can't remember how many of these i made for resale, not many. at the time they were quite pricey for most climbing bums like myself, think i was asking $75 -100. seems yates obviously took a look at these and married them to a wired stem, probably to get around patents.
can't really get behind bearing it all in a very public arena, but find the gear nostalgia of interest. hope you're at good place.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jul 12, 2011 - 03:15pm PT
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"Associates" That's great!
Mine's going to a museum only when you drag it out of my cold, dead hands:
This one fits in cracks just too wide for my biggest Camalot.
Thanks for all the photos and stories, and for caring enough to try to make some kind of narrative out of all the funny gadgets that climbers make.
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Jul 12, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
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Inspiring... Marty, you are awesome. I remember Jason's entrance into the Capitol Dive a little different, but I think your picture captures the energy and excitement.
I can hardly wait to see the climbing family at the show next month. Keep the energy going bro!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 12, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
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Marty: re your question: Fritz - Do you know what year the Otto Wiedemann carabiner was created?
Nope. I was blissfully unaware of its existance until your photo/question. Couldn't find anything in a Google search today either.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 12, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
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I've got lots of cool gear but the Kor descending ring made from bailing wire have got to be right up there.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jul 12, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
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I do not personally know Marty, but know people that do. I posted what I thought was a fairly reasonable post early in this thread and received a few PMs from his friends that I was off base.
Marty, keep posting up these wonderfull thoughts. I may disagree with you on some points, but that is as it should be.
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ChampionSleeper
Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Jul 12, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
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Goddamn Marty! Where have you been all this time? This is your climbing museum!
And for anyone who is not into it, leave the building. And get over the Jesus thing for God's sake. Will you allow a person's religion to totally blind you to any other aspects of their character/personality? I don't have to agree with Marty's religious views to enjoy hanging out with him, climbing with him, and hearing about climbing history. This is Marty's normal enthusiasm level. Much higher than average, but that's not a bad thing.
Keep it comin' Marty! And when this thread is done, start a new one. It's nice to see a hippy shirt in person, but it's way cooler to get the whole story here.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 02:00am PT
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I see the good in people.
Everybody brings their defenses down every once and a while.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 02:56am PT
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Russ, Between the thrown stones, I got this in.
Thanks for the shirt! I wore it on over 500 climbs.
in a whisper (you are awesome!)
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 03:31am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 03:46am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 03:55am PT
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 13, 2011 - 03:55am PT
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Best climbing ad ever! (I remember it well....)
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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Even without the stories, the stroking seems to continue.
Does this set the 'Standard?'
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Kurt Ettinger
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Jul 13, 2011 - 11:55am PT
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Marty,
I have to admit I do love your enthusiasm and collection of gear and climbing memorabilia.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 13, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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marty keep the pictures coming!
i'm quite a rock climbers fan also.
my latest autograph was from ken Boche and Russ Mclean.
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ChampionSleeper
Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Jul 13, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
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What is the route Bensman is on? Looks desperate!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 13, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
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> What is the route Bensman is on? Looks desperate!
Click on it and you can read the caption in the enlarged version.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Jul 13, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
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Hi Marty,
I just saw your museum thread on Supertopo and I must say I am impressed and delighted. You have put together quite a collection. Well done. I am glad that you and others have had the fore site to gather these things together before they disappeared. It seems that a fair amount of climbers don't yet realize the importance of preserving the history. As time goes on that importance will become more obvious. Climbing, unlike many other sports, is not much of a spectator sport and perhaps that is one of the reasons that it often gets overlooked from a historical standpoint. A museum of our sport is needed for a few reasons. As the sport matures, the pioneers and their influence will be essential for climbers to understand the direction climbing has taken and why. Probably even more importantly, a museum will help educate the non-climbing public which is going to become increasingly vital to garnish support for keeping climbing areas open and other land access issues as they arise. Keep on collecting and keep on posting. We will have a great museum some day.
Ken
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Jul 13, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
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Keep it up Marty! I love this kind of detail.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jul 13, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
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Great stuff, thanks for posting.
A virtual museum here is in ways better than a physical location. People from all over the world can look and have time to read captions and history. No travel needed. No security guards.
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asioux
Trad climber
Rancho Cucamonga
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Jul 15, 2011 - 12:00am PT
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Marty keep seeking the LORD. Allow Him to direct your path, stay strong my brother in CHRIST. Use your Armor that the Lord gives us as belivers. The word of God tells us that the prince of this world has blinded there eyes, so they can not see or understand those that belong to Christ. These are truly the last days in which we live. Be strong in the Lord! Seek first the kingdom of God and all these things shall be added unto you. Don't let the world get you down. God will give you peace, you have your treasure and rewards waiting for you in the kingdom of God. The devil will try to discourage you and get you tripped up. Always be on guard, you are planting seeds, satan doesn't like that one bit. Be in the word, seek God everyday in prayer and in thanksgiving...Thank you for sharing all the stories and memorabilia. Armando May God keep you and bless you.
Numbers 6:24-26
Ephesians 6:13-20
1 John 4:5-6
Titus 3:8-11
Romans 12:2,9-16, Romans 10:9-13
2 Peter 3:3-9
Some Scriptures for you to read and put away in your heart...
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ChampionSleeper
Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Jul 15, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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And the thread had just taken such a turn for the better. Oh well. Goodbye climbing museum thread:-(
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 12:49am PT
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HISTORY LESSON VOL 2 - I will post tomorrow morning. Let's see who is the fastest with the correct answers!
ChampionSleeper - I miss you down at the gym! You were always really focused and strong. I still have video plans with you so don't run away yet! I know all is AWESOME in your life!
PYRO - Nice Signatures!!! It's fun to shake the hands of the mutants, young or old!
Chicken Skinner - I have many Bridwell pieces coming your way in time. It didn't matter the cost of getting the stuff from him. I always knew that I am on trusted mission to preserve his gear. Jim is one of the bad boys of Yosemite. I just love him and his family, more than his gear. Keep up the great work at the Yosemite Museum. I am jealous of your fantastic Dolt pieces!. And Stoveleg piton, and, and, and........
asioux - Thanks for the Love. The armor is totally on so no worries! Even mosquitoes don't bother me any more! I believe somewhere in the Bible John said: When God talks to you, YOU DO! And I am obviously doing! Some people have not stepped out of the playground sandbox yet. They still are chucking the sand, even when nobody is there to get hit by it.
Thanks everybody for your great comments!!! I have many many more stories coming, just need some sleep every once and a while.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
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HISTORY LESSON VOL 2
Time for some more fun!
7 items are shown below. Can you answer these questions?
Answers will be revealed this Sunday night after dinner, AZ time.
Unknown #1 - What generation Camalot #4 is this? How do you know?
Unknown #2 - Who made this piton? What state is the person from?
Unknown #3 - What company made these? What are they called?
Unknown #4 - Who made this Hanger? What state are they commonly found in?
BONUS - What is the M.GUD stamp for?
Unknown #5 - What company manufactured this cam? What country is it from?
Unknown #6 - Dolt mentions in this advertisement: ""16 COLORNUTs."" But these two ads shown below only add up to 14. What other 2 nuts did Dolt color?
Aluminum uncolored in this case is not a color.
Unknown #7 - What company made this thing? What is it called?
Good luck with your answers!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
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Wow that was a tough battle getting the History Lesson up onto Supertopo. My son and I battled for 4 hours and still do not know what was happening. He of course mentioned that the lower setting on the camera marked "PC" did not stand for "pretty cruddy." I was shooting photos at billboard size and not Personal Computer size. Yeah for blonndes!
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Jul 15, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
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I want to see some more ARIZONA stuff. Phoenix Bouldering, Wired Bliss, Totem Pole, Granite Mountain, ETC.
Unknown #4 = Bandito Hanger
Thanks Marty.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 15, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
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#1 2nd.? After the black and before the rebranded 3.5's. Just not sure if there were subdivisions within the purples.
#2 Um....
#3
#4 bandito; Marshall Good-aka Jim Waugh?
Banditos were a zonnie phenom, but their presence extended behind the Zion curtain as well.
As late as '98? Steve Quinlan and I placed "No Gud" hangers on disappointment cliff, Indian creek on the routes Carob Corner and Ethnic Cleanser
#5 Amigos / Spain, or possibly droogs/CCCP?
Guess I'll quit while I'm behind
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 15, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
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#3: CrackJack or Seismo?
#5: an Amigo from Spain?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 15, 2011 - 04:13pm PT
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As Silver posted, it is at least 2nd generation, because there was a widely available earlier generation with U cable stem. Whether there were additional, prior, rarer generations of the #4, I don't know, but I suspect that there may be, since you imply the answer is not obvious.
I actually have one of these. My partner bought it from some guys in Camp 4, May 1985, and then we took it up the Salathe'. As one of the sellers declared, "No more horror in offwidth!" I know the nationality of the guys who sold it to my partner. No marks of origin on the cam.
Mine has the same hole pattern, but there are 3 minor differences on mine:
1. the most central hole on each cam is drilled to a larger diameter
2. the trigger cables are longer (yours are swaged near the trigger bar, mine are swaged .5" from the pivot hole
3. the indent on the cam perimeter above the axle is more rounded on yours - the rounding diameter is smaller on mine
So perhaps mine is "2nd gen"? :-)
It has since been lent out and taken up the Salathe' many times - very handy in a couple of spots, like that last pitch. We call it a #7.5. It's been up other El Cap routes, too.
My partner's name for it is "The Secret Weapon". :-)
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Jul 15, 2011 - 04:15pm PT
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Thinking about Climbing and History cause I am a total history person.
There is a Mountaineering/Climbing Museum and a Library. Probably the best and most inclusive in the WORLD.
The Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum.
http://www.mountaineeringmuseum.org
History
Gear
Education
Displays
Art
Culture
Lets not forget the AAC Library. Huge
America Alpine Club Library.
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/library
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jul 15, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
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The purple camalot is third gen- after the first generation Chouinard's and second generation BDs that had the one piece double stems (I mean the one piece plastic piece enclosing the u cable).
The "M. Gud" hangers seem a lot like the "No Gud" bandito hangers found throughout AZ. Are they different??
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
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HISTORY LESSON VOL 2 - SO FAR........
Unknown #1 - not telling......... :)
Unknown #2 - no guesses on this piton?
Unknown #3 - Jaybro first with Spain yes!, But what company and what gear name?
Unknown #4 - Acer is first with Bandito yes. Jaybro is first with Arizona (Zonnie), for the BONUS Jaybros answer Marshall Good Jim Waugh is correct. But to finalize the bonus, what was this hanger used for with Jim Waugh?
Unknown #5 - guesses but not correct answers yet........
Unknown #6 - no guesses yet..........
Unknown #7 - no guesses yet..........
Answers will be revealed Sunday night after dinner, AZ time.
Good luck with your answers!
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ncrockclimber
climber
NC
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Jul 16, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
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Marty.
Thanks for all the cool gear history. Unfortunately, I cannot add anything to the answers already given. What I can add is that the purple cam looks absolutely beautiful. Unless I am mistaken, it is 100% new and unused. Awesome. If you have a full set of that generation camalot in that condition that you are looking to get rid of, let me know! I can give them a good home!
Keep the great pics and gear history coming!
Edit to add -
While unpacking from my move from NC to Phoenix, I just cam across my like new copy of your Queen Creek Canyon guide book from '91. I purchased this in '93 to replace a copy of the guide that I lost, then ended up using my partners book. I don't think that this copy has ever been in a pack or outside. I even found the receipt from Summit Hut in the inside cover. I am excited to have my own little piece of history, and am looking forward to using it when I visit Queen Creek again this fall.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 16, 2011 - 01:10pm PT
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Marshall good rides again? Windy walks / troon mtn? McDowells, Scottsdale?
Other trivia I thought I saw Jim Waugh walk by the peace tree in Moab last may. Is that possible? Anyone know where he is now?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 16, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
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Who needs all the history, trivia, and celebrity when we have Jefe's Prescott Pump article? !!!
LOL!
Thanks again Marty.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Jul 16, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
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Jaybro: Jim's living in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Has been for a few years. He visited a while back and gave a slide show in Phx. Don't know if he was in Moab.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 16, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
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Thanks Manny,I'd heard he was in some exotic locale/ lifestyle, but couldn't remember the deal...
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jul 16, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
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Lots of questions!
Okay, a question for Marty.
Who made this cam? Pretty blatant Friend copy, sized larger.
No markings whatsoever. Dates from 1980s, more or less. I don't know the origin, it came to me via an old partner's rack, when he died.
Wingspan, open, 6 6/7". Fits cracks from 5.5 to 6.5".
No grooves or texture on the cams where they meet the rock, just smooth surface.
The cam's still going strong, comes on all my desert trips. Lifesaver for those pesky offwidths (see image upthread).
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 16, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
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Looks like a wired bliss though mine are stamped Wired Bliss.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 04:49pm PT
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crunch,
You have a Wired Bliss Buddie Cam #7. This was created by Steve Byrne in the mid 1980s. Steve created the company Wired Bliss and his name is also associated with the Lowe/Byrne ball nut sliders. Usually there is a small Wired Bliss stamp on the stem or on the edge of the cam lobes.
In the photo below, the left #7 cam is from Jim Bridwell, center #5 cam is from ebay, and right #7 is from Eric Kohl. The Bridwell cam is slightly different than the Kohl cam.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
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Jaybro, only two M.GUD hangers were created by the Banditos for Jim Waugh for a specific reason. Hmmmmmm.......
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jul 16, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
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A Buddie Cam; cool. Jardine started something with his "Friends" moniker: Buddy Cam, Amigo, Friend of a Friend, and of course Alien.
I looked again, all over, and there's no stamp or markings. It's clearly the same hole pattern as the Eric Kohl #7. It also used to be strung on the same electric blue-pink-magenta stripey webbing, too. I have the #5 somewhere, also.
Thanks!
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Jul 16, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
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On a more contemporary norte regarding Wired Bliss, I hear that they are coming out with a #5, #6 and #9 cam to extend the size of their current line. If the quality on these larger cams is anything like the other stuff they are making today, they are going to be great products.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
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MACE STORIES-THIRD TIMES A CHARM
--FIRST CHARM--
For years, driving through Sedona Arizona I would stare at the Mace formation as friends and I were off to climb at the Overlook in Oak Creek Canyon. How could you not! The formation is every climbers inspiration, every artists inspiration, besides a Vortex. My friend Rich and I decided to take a four day vacation to Paradise Forks. The Forks is a paradise of tall basalt cracks located between Williams AZ and Flagstaff AZ. Rich didn't lead much so I cranked out everything I could. We were somewhat new climbers at the time just barely cranking through the 5.9 routes. The 5.8 and 5.9 cracks at the Pillow Wall were kicking my ass. The hand jams were for large hands, not for Marty hands. Other climbers were there climbing Pillow fight 5.10 and suggested, while chuckling, that I try this thin finger corner/face crack instead. I was dumb, not knowing what I was doing and nobody told me what the rating was. Somehow I cranked through the route and then found out it was the Davidson Dihedral 5.11+. Wow was I jazzed that I sent it! On our third day of the trip my muscles were spent! Paradise Forks has a way of doing that quickly, especially if you are leading all of the routes.
Rich and I went over to TL Bush 5.10 where I struggled through the layback corner which was awesome, but spent a long time leading the route. I was really getting tired. We rappelled back into the canyon for our final climb of the day, but still had one more day of our vacation. I decided to climb a route named Standard Forks 5.9, which is rated 5.8. As I was 1/3 of the way up the route, I noticed people were cheering me on and then were screaming as they jumped 50' off of the cliff into the pond below Waterslip Down. This screaming and big splashing noise was kinda getting to me. On my route, the cracks turned into flakes and the pro was getting desperate. I pulled out every Royal Robbins trick to pro the section I was stuck in. Yipe! I was thinking to myself, "Now I am going to die!" Jimmy Symans and Deidre Burton showed up across the canyon and started yelling at me, "Good Job Marty Good Job." I went from being a hero to totally mentally defeated. Jimmy was climbing (leading) Aqualung with Deidre, where Jimmy had a broken ankle fresh from doing the jump across on the Mace route the week before. I mean big wrapped ankle in a brace doing the jams and leading. I finished my route with a huge gasp of relief as I topped out, and then watched Jimmy floating up a few other routes.
Later we met up with Jimmy and told him that we were too tired for a third day at the Forks, so were were heading home. Jimmy suggested that we stop and climb the Original Route on the Mace on our way home. Why not! I was totally spent but Rich had this sudden burst of energy and agreed that he would lead the crux pitches on the Mace. The plan was set and it sounded like a great adventure. Before we left Jimmy warned us not to pro the limestone band at the top of pitch one. "A bird otherwise will hit you in the face." That seemed like a funny comment to me. We arrived early at the Mace and I got the first lead. At the pitch one limestone band there is a nice crack so I stuck a nut in it and suddenly, no kidding, got hit in the forehead by a swift. Damn near knocked me off of the ledge! Rich died laughing as I regained my senses. Unbelievable!!! I lead pitch 1, 3, 5 and Rich lead pitch 2 and 4. The 5.9+ crux pitch 4 was awesome! Pillars surround you which slowly disappear leaving you with an angled crack leading to a distant lose piton bolt. The old piton bolt can be pushed in and out 3/4" or so, but could not be removed. Scary but we clipped it! The jump across was totally awesome, what a great route!!!
The rappel off of the formation is from the lower pillar not the top of the Mace, that's why you have to jump back. There were two chains for the rappel so we fed the chains with the rope and both rappelled into the notch. There still is one more 100' rappel to go to get back to the ground. We tried to pull the rope but the rope was totally jammed! We tried the flick and pull tactics, both pulling on one line, and nothing was working. It was beginning to really suck, besides it was getting dark and cold.
We were stumped and did not know many tricks to climb ropes. We decided to jug the line via figure 8 belay and one arm lock offs. I created a prussic out of my shoe string and anchored one end of the rope to the ledge. We came up with the idea where I would pull up on my prussic, which was looped around my wrist, hang tightly like in a one arm pull up position, and then pull the slack out of my figure 8 device with the other arm, and yell to Rich "Lock Off." Rich would pull the rope into a fireman's belay, where I could rest. Repeat this process for 120' in an overhanging chimney. My muscles were beyond spent from four days of climbing, but I went into total survival mode and it had to be done! Let's just say, I was bleeding pretty good around the wrist by the time I reached the top. The rope appeared to run freely through the chains, but since the chains were small ovals, and the chains did not lay completely over the edge, the rope was getting trapped more and more as you pulled down onto it. That sucked! I will say again, THAT SUCKED! I added two 4' gold slings to the chain links then Rich and I were back at the car before you knew it.
A few days later, another team of climbers (I can't remember their names but mom and dad) did the Mace and saw the two gold slings and laughingly removed them, fed their ropes in the chains and fell into the same trap as Rich and I. They tugged, and tried everything but nothing was working, their ropes were jammed. So they decided to chew through the rope tails on each end, tying the remaining rope segments together to get down the remaining rappel. It took them 1 1/2 hours to tear WITH THEIR TEETH through a 10.2 diameter rope, and they both finished at the same time. They left the rope hanging and abandoned it.
A few days later my friend Doug climbed the Mace with a few Boy Scouts and came across the chewed ropes. He decided when seeing this that it may be time to rebolt the route. A few years later I went to Jacks Canyon for a one night camp climb and dash home trip. I just started the campfire and suddenly my friend Doug appeared. He was up there to meet the Scouts for a one day adventure the next day. Soon afterwards a mom and dad and two really cute young kids came to our fire and we decided to share the one fire. Somehow we got into a conversation about the Mace, and without even knowing each others story, we all shared the same adventure that single week on the Mace. They still had my gold slings, and Doug still had their chewed ropes.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
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MACE STORIES-THIRD TIMES A CHARM
--SECOND CHARM--
A year or so later, Doug called me and said that he wanted to create a Boy Scout adventure on the Mace. I told him that he was crazy as I explained on what he was up against. He decided to teach the Scouts how to jug up a rope, so some of the Scouts would climb the route, and some of the Scouts would jug up the two rappel pitches to all reach the summit. Doug always amazed me on when something needs to be done with the Scouts, it's gonna happen no matter the cost. I love Doug and his kid teaching abilities. Doug rented a scissor lift, and everybody met in his driveway at his Phoenix home. One by one the kids jugged their way up to the platform, and we raised and lowered the scissor lift I am sure over 100 times. It was a long but fun day!
I contacted many of my friends to help with this two day trip for the Scouts, and three day trip for me and my friends since we had to rig it. Doug wanted each pitch of the route to have two ropes. A jugging line for the climber and a safety belay rope in case they fell, ON EVERY PITCH! Did I mention that I thought Doug was crazy. I accepted my mission and Rich and I headed for Sedona to prep the Mace with many ropes. My friends were to arrive just a short while after us. Rich and I hauled 10 ropes up to the Mace and started rigging it but began to notice that my friends had not shown up. They actually did not show up until the next day, CRAP! I knew that Rich and I were in trouble on rigging the Mace being short handed. Two other climbers arrived from Canada while on a road trip in the Western USA. The Mace was on their list where I let them pass us on the pitch one ledge. I had with me my trusty John Fowler huge Magnus cam for the top of pitch two for the "wide crack move." The Canadian climber leader got to the wide crack move and began to notice the 20' runout he was encountering, and yelled down to me if he could borrow the large cam monster I was carrying.
I made a deal with him that he could borrow the cam if he dragged a line or two of mine to save me some time, over me leading the route and hauling. Thank God that these two guys showed up! Thank God! Their names were Yan Milot and Max Bertrand from St-Faustin Quebec. I later mailed them a bunch of my MK Guides as a thanks. Rich and I rigged as much of the Mace we could as we noticed that already Scouts were showing up for the adventure. Doug actually had the entire troop camp in the wash under the Mace. I thought that was a ballsy campsite since there are many million dollar houses all around us, and here we are having a huge camping outing with campfires in the middle of them. It is National Forrest land but still. The ranger even showed up that night exclaiming WTF, but there were no signs posted and the ranger seeing Doug insisting that he was not leaving, eventually backed down. The week following this event "No Camping" signs were posted in the wash area.
It was a cold evening which dropped down to 38 degrees or so. I was totally tired and had to get up early for this huge "Horse and Pony Show." I then noticed that while I was out rigging the route, my sleeping bag was sitting on my spare Camelbak where it drained half of the water into my bag. I still found a somewhat dry corner of the sleeping bag to curl into in my tent, and I was instantly sound asleep. I woke up to find that I was really not feeling well. I woke with a somewhat frozen bag and was hitting hyperthermia. I became quite scared of the situation since the entire outing was on my shoulders. As Doug and the Scouts were making me tea and anything they could to break my sickness, all of my other friends suddenly showed up. I am sure I fell into in tears of great joy seeing their faces. We came up with a game plan to use some of the experienced Scouts as belayers on the lower Mace pitches, my friends were on the upper pitches, summit, and rap notch, and I was ground control. I was really sick the whole day but made the best of it.
The Mace climb went as good as it could where 12 of the 28 kids actually reached the summit! The other kids were scared off, but all still climbed at least the first pitch of the Mace. Imagine you as a 13 year old kid showing up for your first climbing trip, and it is the Mace! Kinda like William "Dolt" Feuerer's first day being the Totem Pole, but he was older. At the end of the day, my friends and I pulled all of the ropes and gear and headed back to camp where we found a large pig on a spit that was cooking over a fire the whole day. There were so many parents helping with this outing all bringing home cooked food which filled the tables like a Kings feast. It was amazing!!! When I was in Boy Scouts, the Scouts had to provide for themselves. This was incredible! Now imagine how big our camp was with over 50 campers, tents etc. That Sedona ranger was surly pissed off! I drew this map of the Mace the following day when I arrived home.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
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MACE STORIES-THIRD TIMES A CHARM
--THIRD CHARM--
Doug eventually returned to the Mace and rebolted it, but he never told me. I ran into him shortly after at a convenience store, and he told me he had just threw out those junk hangers that morning in the trash. I was like "NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Doug is more engineer than pro-climber so a mangled bolt to him is trash. I hastily rushed him to his house and the large city trash can was still sitting on the curb. I tipped it over, crawled into it, and shuffled through the trash finding two hangers. I kept searching for the third original hanger then he mentioned he didn't get the last one (step across). On this day the trash never smelled so good my friends! I looked at him and said "This is history my friend, HISTORY!!! I tipped the trash can back upright and just then the garbage truck turned the corner, and he is the first house on the street. One minute more and these historic bolts would have been lost forever. The pitch 4 crux piton bolt was even more exciting when I noticed it had TM stamped on the side, TM standing for TM Herbert! Amazingly the Star Dryvin nail bolt holding the piton was only 1 1/2" long, and it moved to the point that you could pull it out with your fingers, but it just would not come off of the rock. Doug said it came out with one small tug. Scary! The other hanger was homemade angled aluminum (airy crossover pitch two).
That just meant that there was one more original hanger on the route, the step across on pitch five. The following weekend I dragged my Bosch Bulldog drill and Bill Dacier up the mace to retrieve the major historical item. Bill was kinda intimidated of the route so I led all of the pitches. As I was climbing, I was totally filled with excitement to have the whole set of original bolts from the Mace. First ascent of the Original Route was by TM Herbert, Bob Kamps and Dave Rearick in April 1957, possibly on Easter Day. Yvon Chouinard would have been climbing the route also, but chose to go to church instead. When I topped out on pitch four I instantly fell into shock. The step across hanger was replaced, and the original homemade aluminum hanger was gone! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I mean I was almost in tears!
Bill and I did the step across move and on to the main summit where I got to see Doug's new summit register. Doug installed on the Mace, 3/4" glue-in lifting eye bolts for the main belays and rappels, and the main summit register. He mentioned he spent a big coin to have it created out of stainless steel, but it should last forever. He inscribed all of his kids names onto it which are written at the base of the register. I noticed written in the summit ledger that one of the last people up on the Mace was Jeff Achey, an editor for Climbing Magazine. Climbing Magazine was shooting photos for their next Mag #186 June 1999 Flagstaff AZ issue, and Jeff and crew had just climbed the Mace. I called Jeff, who bumped me back to John Burcham, which led to Albert Newman, who had the Historical relic in his tool box. The set was once again back together!
A year later I visited the legendary Tom Taber, and looked at his great collection of climbing gear. Tom Taber has many first ascents in Arizona, which many are the majority of the routes at the Overlook. I was able to borrow only a few pieces of his gear even though I gave him my best begging performance. Tom suddenly whipped out two pitons, which were the original pitons used on the second rappel out of the notch on the Mace. This was an amazing find! Now all 5 original climbing anchors which were used to climb the Mace in 1957, are all back together and preserved.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 17, 2011 - 12:42am PT
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Were both M. Gud hangers used on a single climb?
Or maybe for a non climbing event?
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Jul 17, 2011 - 04:11am PT
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Right on. Thanks again for the AZ and WB stuff.
There is more Big Wired Bliss cams to come.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2011 - 05:13am PT
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ncrockclimber - you may want to purchase the mini-guides if you are looking for information on Queen Creek Canyon. The 1991 Guidebook is a very very outdated guide to the area. The bigger 1996 Guidebook is hard to find and you may pay a big cost to obtain it. Years ago one sold for $751 on ebay. Not from me but from some other lucky seller. The book is valued between $60 - $80 in reality and can be found on Amazon.com. The smaller mini-guides sell for $5 each at local climbing stores in Phoenix.
Jaybro - I love your curiosity on the M.GUD Hanger. It was not used on a climb but was bolted down to something. But where? Hmmm......
Acer - I know Mike Clifton (past owner of Wired Bliss) has/had a #5 Buddie cam.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 17, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
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That Mace anchor is really something! I encountered it with the Steel Monkey a while back and at first glance thought it was one of those Sigg Tourister (?) cooksets from back in the day. Half expected to see it perched on a Svea 123!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2011 - 07:04pm PT
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I was at the new AZ Hiking Shack today which is at Thomas and 33rd street in Phoenix. I couldn't believe it but Ed Viesturs was there so I got a photo with him.
At 112 degrees today in Phoenix, and he still wears his zero below suit.
He really is extreme!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 17, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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Maybe they sealed a box containing a tool the Steve Grossman might use for pasting heads, but has more nefarius uses?
Isn't it time for dinner yet?
Acer keep me in the loop for the larger cams, for when they become availible, there is a serious lack of industry support in this area
Jaybrofivethirteenatmacdotcalm
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jul 17, 2011 - 08:12pm PT
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Lots of great info about the Mace. Fantastic that you have all this old equipment from the climb. Thanks!
Re. the date of the first ascent:
When I interviewed him for my Desert Towers book, Dave Rearick was certain it was just before Christmas, 1959.
Tim Toula, author of Cheap Way to Fly, has
1957, which he says came from information from a local climbing historian,
George Bain.
Bob Kamps' website has Dec 30, 1959. This would seem to buttress 1959 as the
correct year, but the day cannot be correct, as the ascent was evidently on a
Sunday (Rearick told me Yvon missed out on the summit to go to church) and Dec 30 1959 was not a Sunday.
My own guess is the ascent was Dec 20, 1959, as this date was a Sunday, it fits
with Rearick's timeline of climbing the Mace then climbing Ormes' Rib on
Shiprock on Christmas Day. My big assumption here is that the "30" is perhaps a
typo for "20," but of course I'm somewhat guessing here.
There's no Mace report in the American Alpine Journals for the relevant years.
An email from Yvon suggested that he agreed with 1959, also.
But maybe there's other info I don't know about?????????
Cheers,
Crusher
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Jul 17, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
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totally great thread Marty!!
You've posted some really fun stuff!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
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crunch, I have tossed this FA date around for some time now. I went back to 1957 since the books say this date. I actually heard that there was a postcard written by the FA team which showed the exact date being in 1958. I can't find the postcard yet. For sure it was climbed in the late 1950s and Chouinard missed out due to church. Climbing the Mace in December would be quite cold!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
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HISTORY LESSON VOL 2 - ANSWERS
Unknown #1 - What generation Camalot #4 is this? How do you know?
Answer: guesses but not correct. Camalot shown is 6th Generation. The way you know is the plastic stem is a single piece plastic tubing where there is a molded stopper ring to hold up the finger trigger.
Generation 1: 1987 Chouinard double stem but three separate plastic pieces making the "U" shape.
Generation 2: 1989 Chouinard double stem but single plastic piece making the "U" shape.
Generation 3: 1990 Black Diamond double stem but single plastic piece making up the "U" shape.
Generation 4: 1996 Black Diamond single stem with single one piece tubing. No trigger stop where finger trigger can fall into the lobes.
Generation 5: 1997 Black Diamond single stem with three pieces creating the single tubing. Aluminum ring added for a trigger stop.
Generation 6: 2001 Black Diamond single stem with one piece tubing with trigger stop molded into it.
Then Generation 7 is the newer C4 Camalots which were created in 2005.
Unknown #2 - Who made this piton? What state is the person from?
Answer: no guesses. Dwight Lavender Piton circa 1931 from Colorado. Lavender was a geology student whose family owned a ranch near the San Juan Mountains in Colorado. Lavender and friends learned climbing techniques and piton usage through European climbing manuals but there were no pitons made in America at that time. So Lavender made up a batch of his own design in the engineering workshop at Stanford University. These pitons had an open eye which admitted the rope. The opening was closed by hammering the eye flush with the rock. This history is in the book "Climbing In North America by Chris Jones page 106. I obtained this piton through Rusty Baillie who found it while free soloing "Sneffels" north face in Colorado. Rusty told me it was a Lavander pin. While Rusty was rebolting Granite Mountain in Prescott, I called and asked him if somehow I could obtain some of the old replaced bolts by donating new hangers and bolts to him for free. He said "NO" because he was confident that Prescott climbers would donate monies to the rebolting cause. Even though he advertised his need, nobody came forward. I called Rusty years later and asked again for the old bolts for my collection. This time we met in Prescott at his small home/apartment and had lunch. He said that since I was the only one to help on his project by giving him something, he donated a shoebox of all of the treasures he had found, and items he replaced. I am still blown away of his gift and the many incredible items that were in his shoebox. Rusty has really cool handwriting!
Unknown #3 - What company made these? What are they called?
Answer: guesses but not correct. Company is Fixe Hardware and the devices are called Encaix. I believe they are from the early 1990s, but I will check with Stephane on the Circa. Cool devices but a slight design flaw. The webbing moves on the adjustment ring, and when fully opened the climber is attached to the center of the device and not at the end, where it would be stronger like on a Big Bro Device. In my observation, the device would collapse if the climber took a big fall onto it if it was fully opened. However I think it is a super cool device. Donated by Stephane Pennequin and Kevin Daniels. Kevin said his was a prototype.
Unknown #4 - Who made this Hanger? What state are they commonly found in?
Answer: Acer is first with Bandito Hangers, Jaybro is first with Arizona. The Banditos were a group of climbers from Arizona that left their signature aluminum hangers on the routes that they First Ascended. They climbed all over the country as well. I am foggy on the Bandito history but I know that Climbing Magazine covered an article on them. Banditos started in the mid 1970s.
BONUS - What is the M.GUD stamp for?
Answer: Jaybro correctly guessed - "Marshall Good," in association with Jim Waugh. In the early 1980s, Jim was policing the new route development around the Phoenix area. When new routes were established, Jim would remove what he believed were unnecessary bolts on the routes, especially top anchor bolts causing the climbers to walk off of the routes. Of course sometime around 1987 the new style "Sport Anchors On Each Route Theory" became acceptable. The Banditos were quite pissed off at Jim so they created "No GUD" hangers as a statement against Jim to keep him away from their bolted routes. One particular day, the Banditos bolted Jim's front door shut so he could not get out of his apartment. Two M.GUD hangers were used on this front door attack. Jim denied the story for years until right before he moved to Thailand, when he gave me these hangers and said that the story was true.
Unknown #5 - What company manufactured this cam? What country is it from?
Answer: guesses but not correct. This is a Kuate Cam #7.5 from Mexico made in the late 1980s. The Kuate Cams have a signature notch cut into the back of the lobes. This particular cam was once abandoned in a wide crack on the Totem Pole in Arizona. When Jim Bridwell climbed the Totem Pole, he noticed this cam shoved way back out of reach in the wide crack. When Jim was higher up on the route, he got an idea of dangling his hammer on his climbing rope, sending it way down into the crack, and swinging it back and forth hitting the cam out of the crack. It was working but then the cam went out of sight. On the rappel, Jim came across the cam again which was barley still in the crack, and then he plucked out his prize. I was able to find another Kuate Cam but #5 years later on ebay.
Unknown #6 - Dolt mentions in this advertisement: ""16 COLORNUTs."" But these two ads shown below only add up to 14. What other 2 nuts did Dolt color? Aluminum uncolored in this case is not a color.
Answer: no guesses. I believe that only myself and Gary Neptune know this answer. In March 1971, Dolt decided to create a #10 Trunut and #6 Spiderut which both are a light violetish color. Besides Gary Neptune's displayed collection, I have never seen a second of these two nuts.
Unknown #7 - What company made this thing? What is it called?
Answer: guesses but not correct. Vaude created this item and called it a Turner. Circa 1990s? The nut turns on the cable 360 degrees allowing the climber to place it in whatever position they want. I believe Stephane told me there were three sizes created. This Turner was donated to me by John Sherman.
Thanks for playing HISTORY LESSON VOL 2
Good job on your answers!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 18, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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Good stuff Marty! These here quizzes are cool! Thanks
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ChampionSleeper
Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Jul 18, 2011 - 10:43am PT
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Thanks Marty! Cool history and good stories too. The story about the scouts on the Mace is pretty funny. I can't imagine what that must of looked like all strung up with ~20+ climbers on it!
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Jul 18, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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Hi Marty! Thanks for posting all the great history! I am enjoying it greatly.
You make a great point about the old guide being out of date. I think I will take your advice, purchase some of the mini guides and save the old '91 guide in like-new condition.
Keep the good stuff coming! I am sure that I am not the only one who is really enjoying it.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 18, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
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Marty,
My 7.5 does not have "KUATE 7.5" stamped on the stem - it's blank.
I also have a finger sized cam bought in May 1985 from the same Mexican guys which is stamped "KUATE 0.5" on one side of the stem, and "MEXICO" on the other. It's similar to some of the Rob Oravetz cams of that time, but not as nice. It was helpful on the Salathe'.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2011 - 04:27pm PT
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MisterE, That is so cool! I am amazed they didn't freeze on their December ascent. The Mace is practically in total shade at that time and most of the route is on the North (shaded) side. That's why those guys are the masters. Thanks for sharing this info! I will update my history books.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jul 18, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
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Aha, the Mace FA date plot thickens. Funny, I've just been emailing with Bonnie Kamps about this, too.
Looking back at my interview notes again for my book, a clincher for 1959 as the correct year may be a chance remark from Dave Rearick. Rearick told me that one of the motivating factors for the attempt on Shiprock (which was on the same trip as the Mace FA, just three or so days later) was that TM Herbert had heard of the free ascent of Shiprock by Pete Rogowski and Tom McCalla, and TM was really fired up to do the second free ascent of Shiprock.
Ray Jacquot recently created a painstaking reconstruction of the entire Shiprock ascent information from 1939 up until May 1968. This lists the Rogowski ascent as May 29, 1959. Royal Robbins was supposed to join Rogowski for the free attempt on Shiprock, but could not make it (was he drafted? I forget now).
So, from this, the Mace first ascent would have had to have post-dated May 1959.
Bonnie Kamps just sent me the same diary scan (Thanks Bonnie!), but said it was from 1959. It was also written a few years after the fact, with, obviously, no access to online calendar date calculators, so is not entirely ideal as a reference.
But perhaps Bob Kamps’ diary was only one day off with the 26 December. In 1959, December 26 was a Saturday, and December 27, therefore, a Sunday. So, maybe, just maybe, he was just one day off, and Sunday 27 December was the actual summit date?
I'm pretty confident that the summit date for the Mace is likely either Dec 20, or Dec 27 1959.
Rearick is positive it was pre-Christmas Day, Kamps' diary says it was post-Christmas Day. Which, is still not clear.
As a side note, Bonnie has a great website of Bob Kamp's first ascents:
http://www.bobkamps.com/
It's searchable, well organized, a great resource. He sure did a lot of new routes!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 09:37am PT
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I heard about Bobbi Bensman through the local word, that she used to live in Phoenix and was quite the climber. I remember one Phoenix Bouldering Contest where she signed my score card after completing a bouldering problem. She and friends were having trouble sending the problem and I jumped in with the fun. Somehow I sent it, and it was by the skin of my teeth. My whole body was shaking from the adrenalin. She said to me "Good Job" where afterwards I felt like I was drained and needed to sit down. It was a high enough point problem which put me into second place in my age category. Years later I was never able to get that problem again.
In the early 1990s, Bobbi was in town with a slideshow named "Of Power & Grace." It was at Los Olivos Senior Center in Phoenix which has nice seating and a stage, and was my first slide show presentation that I attended shown by a Superstar climber. My friends and I were excited to see the show. Upon entering, each person was given a raffle ticket. I love raffle tickets and of course begged for more, but they swooshed me away and said "Go find a seat." We sat close to the back where the seating was higher up so we had a great view of the show. Bobbi entered and everybody applauded as she introduced herself. I have seen Bobbi Bensman in videos and in magazine pictures, and at this time was getting goosebumps from the crowds applause.
Bobbi started her show, which was two slide projectors that alternated back and forth, and at times, it looked like the climber was moving on film. About one third of the way through the show, one of the slide projectors started to give her problems. The second projector kept insisting on lighting up at the same time as the other, causing the shown slides to overlap. Bobbi worked on fixing the problem, but it was not responding and the same problem kept happening. She eventually turned off the second projector and gave a longer speech as the audience viewed the first projectors images. I still thought the show was great even though we only saw half of the show. I came to the conclusion that it was the best show ever since she gave more history on the individual slides, over what other people saw on her "Of Power & Grace" road trip.
Bobbi continually apologized for the technical difficulties she encountered, and then went into the raffle segment of her show. This is the time where you look at the numbers on your raffle ticket, and then go into prayer service. "God, if you are in the building, let me win, let me win!" Sometimes closing your eyes helps also in channeling the energy to get your number called. I am still working on new techniques on getting my raffle tickets to be constant winners. The first ticket winner was a girl which appeared to be a friend of Bobbi's. I could tell by the expression on Bobbi's face, her big smile, and then she gave a big hug to the girl and thanked her for being there for her. I went back into prayer "Come on God, come on!" And sure enough my number was called. I was the second ticket winner! The smile on my face was bigger than bobbi's, as she started to fall into fear as the Marty train was about to hit her. I must have screamed in excitement the whole time, as I hastily made it down to the stage.
I won a chalk bag and was very proud of it. Bobbi shook my hand and the whole crowd was laughing at the scene. As I started walking away it dawned on me that I forgot something important. I didn't think that it was fair that the girl received a hug for her ticket win, and I didn't. So after a few steps, I turned back around and exclaimed "You forgot something!" She asked "What?" And thats when I got my big hug! It was funny since everybody after that demanded a hug from Bobbi as well for winning the raffle. It was a fun show!
Bobbi is an amazing climber, and has worked her ass off to achieve her place on the podium! Even in my next life I don't think I could climb as many hard routes as she has accomplished. Street stories claim that one day she sent, Better Eat Your Wheaties V9 at Hueco Tanks. John Sherman exclaimed that no woman can climb V9, so the boulder problem was down rated to V8. Another story was that at a Snowbird Competition in Utah, Bobbi was disgusted on how easy the Woman's Finals route was, where she had already sent it and won the comp. The comp directors smirked at her and then said to jump on the mens finals route, and see if that is hard enough for her. She climbed the route and made it to the top.
Ever since that slideshow, I have received endless hugs from Bobbi whenever we bump into each other. I make a point of seeing her at every Trade show since she is, my hometown girl.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 09:51am PT
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Timmy does not need a story, he needs a book! Besides being an amazing climber and an amazing slackliner, he is amazing at turning climbing videos into a fun adventure! Every video he is in he gets the audience laughing. I love the segment he did in Canada with Lynn Hill bouldering, where Timmy was cleaning the rock with a brush on a stick going in one direction, and Lynn was climbing in the other direction. He continued brushing Lynn as she passed by like she was a piece of the stone. Lynn played along and the video segment truly became a work of art. Or the segment at Indian Creek with Jim Donini, "The tape is the condom of the hand." Some day Timmy will probably be a game show host or something. Timmy, thanks for all you do in the climbing world! You are the best!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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MisterE, crunch, and all other Mace historians, The FA history on the Mace has been incorrect for over 50 years now. It is awesome that yous are dialing in the correct date of the FA, if that is even possible, but there is no reason to get into a knife fight over who's right and who's wrong. Although I like a good knife fight every once and a while, like Stings final act in the movie "Dune." Keep up the good work on digging into the history to find the answer. In the future, we may find an actual hair of one of the first ascentists, and carbon date it for varification.
The important item in this Mace discussion, since this thread started with this topic, is that Yvon Chouinard found it more important to attend church that day, over climbing the amazing Mace formation.
thaDood, John Sherman stopped by my house ten years ago just after visiting Gary Neptune in Colorado. John was writing a book on climbing gear, and was gathering info at that time. After seeing Gary's collection, and then seeing what I had, John abandoned his project. So many climbing manufacturers kept reinventing the wheel on climbing gear so now there is a ton of stuff out there. I thought about writing a book on gear, but then decided that I only have 8 or so good years of my kids still being kids, before they are off to college. I decided kids first, then gear history later. I am finding that getting hit by water balloons is better than being hit by people correcting my incorrect history theories. For now it is nice to have this Supertopo site to share my celebrity experiences with the viewers. Writing a book with John Long would be an awesome experience, but knowing John myself, he probably would forget to put my name on the cover of HIS book.
Two years ago I found Bobbi in the Gramicci booth. I will see her in two weeks to get my hugs and to get an update on what she has been up to. I will keep you posted!
Presently at Hueco Tanks, there is an 8 year old girl that has already sent V14 multiple times!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jul 19, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
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The FA history on the Mace has been incorrect for over 50 years now. It is awesome that yous are dialing in the correct date of the FA, if that is even possible, but there is no reason to get into a knife fight over who's right and who's wrong.
Whoops, I forgot the golden rule: Never bring a knife to a Mace fight.....
sorry.....
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2011 - 03:35am PT
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MisterE, I am anxious to see your finished book. Sedona climbing sure has blossomed over the last 10 years. There is a lot of rock to be climbed!
What was that Larry The Cable Guy Saying....Get er done!
The Sedona guidebook will be a great seller in the stores! So no knife fight?...rats! Back to the Seagal movies!
Rock on!
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ChampionSleeper
Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Jul 22, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
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The Marty train keeps me entertained at work. Keep on chuggin' Marty!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
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HISTORY LESSON VOL 3
just one simple mystery on this round.
I am busy creating videos this week for Team Thrashers, the climbing team at the Phoenix Rock Gym.
The History Answer will be disclosed this Sunday night after dinner, AZ time.
Question: We all remember the Phoenix Bouldering Competitions.
The competitions ran from 1983-2004
Which year/years were there no competitor Phoenix Bouldering Contest T-shirts? And why?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 22, 2011 - 11:55pm PT
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That yr there was none... 99? 98?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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Salt Lake City Outdoor Retailers Show in two weeks!
I purchased my new business cards five minutes ago. It's time to rock!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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At the comps I am known as the Flying Zebra! Sponsored by Evolv.
Judging by the hand hold size, you can see that I am on a V14.
I thought the rating was kinda inflated, it felt more like a V14-
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2011 - 04:05am PT
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I remember 1987 like it was yesterday. The sun was rising in the morning as I prepared to go to work. The scent of the coffee brewing was eye opening as I yawned, smelling my dog breath which made me realize that I had not brushed my teeth yet. Suddenly there was a text message on my cell phone and I raced over to see what it was. Wait a minute! Back in 1987 there were no cell phones yet! Let me get my boots on again and restart the story. Sun rising, coffee, dog breath, and oh yeah, Jim Waugh stopping at my house to make sure I was attending his amazing Phoenix Bouldering Contest. Jim was known as the worlds greatest micro manager almost to the point that he stopped by every climbers house to tell them the comp was coming up in April. I worked under Jim's command for many years and noticed this micro managing as well. Until I was dubbed "Director" of the Thrash & Dangle Fest, an annual competition held at the Phoenix Rock Gym 5 years running so far. I never knew the extent of what micro managing was about, NOW I DO, and Jim's comp was 10 times greater in size than mine! Until anybody holds their own competition, they should never say that running a comp is an easy task. Jim, ALL of my hats are off to you!
The Thrash & Dangle Fest is not a small indoor comp, it is actually rated one of the top 10 competitions to attend in the USA, and it is indoors. To see what the buzz is all about go to Mountainproject.com, go to Forum, go to Thrash & Dangle Fest 2011 for the complete layout of the event. The Phoenix Bouldering Contest was an outdoor event drawing in 600 competitors, and was held over a 3 day weekend in Superior AZ. Basically in and around an area known as Oak Flat. Besides the comp, there were 20+ manufacturer booths showing products, a main stage with live music, Dyno competition wall in the campground, food trailers, and of course Beer! If you survived the beer, most became plowed from the stiff drinks mixed at the FISH booth. Russ, did you actually put any mixer in any of those drinks? So let's see, compete in the Arizona sun for 6 hours and then drink lots of alcohol. My stomach is still scarred to this day from what I call, "Green Sunday." That's the day after the comp where you woke up in your tent not realizing you were sleeping in your puke the whole night. But that never happened to me….No….No.
Jim asked me if I could help him with some tasks at the comps which I quickly said, "no problem." The Phoenix Bouldering Contest was totally awesome and yes, I wanted to be involved. Yes, Yes! Even though it was a lot of work, I loved doing it! Without the Phoenix Bouldering Comp, April was just another month, besides Easter of course, and besides the now, Thrash & Dangle Fest! I slowly became the Media Guru, where I set up interviews between the Climbing superstars and the TV media like ESPN, ESPN2, Outdoor Life Network, local TV stations, and many newspaper and magazine publications as well. It was a cool job! I also worked with Susan Peplow and Sandy Draus on the prize committee, helping them figure out which division winner got what item. Being on the prize committee also gave me the opportunity to be on the main stage, as we fired up the crowd by throwing schwag into the hundreds of hands reaching out to catch a free prize. Sandy always hogged the microphone which I grabbed at occasionally, but her swift hand getting ready to slap me seemed to keep away, just out of her slapping range.
Besides the few mentioned, Jim had hundreds of necessary volunteers to make this bouldering contest a successful event. Security, First Aid responders, Route setters, Roaming judges, people who hung the hundreds of ropes, Trail makers, Signage department, Route guide maps for the 300+ problems to choose from, Traffic control, Competitor check in people, Sponsor department, and so so so much more. And Jim Waugh was on top of everything making sure everybody was where they needed to be. This comp was huge!!! Being a staff person, I got to have a taste of all of the action. I really miss not having the comp anymore. It was just another element in my life that made being a climber so wonderful! Well, Yosemite can do that too but for the comp people you know what I mean!
Let's go back to "Green Sunday." I was always an early riser and helped to clean up the trash around the main stage before everybody else woke up. Those partying people sure can leave a mess! Some climbers never made it away from the main stage, and slept there all night. Good thing for friends, they all were covered with blankets or something were they lay. Sure it is Arizona in April, but some competition mornings we woke up to snow, or rain, or during the day is topped over 100 degrees. You just never knew what the weather was going to be. No matter what, it got cold during the night. Sometimes it got really cold! Jim's biggest worry about the comp year to year was always the weather. Somehow each year the weather cooperated and comp happened without a next day rain delay or something. My friend Rich and I volunteered to help with the Sunday pancake service, which was sponsored by Great Trango Holdings Inc. This volunteering came with the benefit of getting the first a cup of coffee in the morning, or being first to eat a few flapjacks before the big crowd lined up for breakfast. My stomach was usually still twisted from the after comp celebration, but I had absolutely no problem with having a warm cup of coffee in my hands.
A gentleman by the name of Malcolm Daly, who is the chief of the Great Trango company, came in to the pancake tent as Rich and I were setting up tables, and chairs, and cutting many oranges. He threw at us two Trango T-shirts and said "Your Sponsored!" Rich and I looked at each other smiling hugely as we then realized that we were now sponsored athletes. We were SPONSORED! I thought, Wow! SPONSORED! And a lightbulb went off in my head! Sure it was just one T-shirt, but it opened the door to my Paparazzi climbing life. The next year, Rich and I were first to the Trango breakfast tent to help, and we purposely left our Trango shirts back at our camp and sure enough, Malcolm threw at us both another T-shirt. We were sponsored again! This to us was way cool! We had no problem scraping the syrup goo spills off of the tables, or scraping the pancake fryer and cleaning the pans. We were Sponsored and were proud of it!
The next year Jim took me to the Outdoor Retailers show for the first time to promote the Phoenix Bouldering Contest. Jim informed me of what he needed me to do at the show, and when we first arrived, he ran me up and down all of the isles in the climbing area. To Jim this was work, but to me I became light headed from seeing all of the gear, especially seeing all of the climbing superstars all in one room. I became so dizzy that Jim sat me down in a chair, and went to the nurses office to get me some aspirin. Jim eventually returned and was speaking to me, but his words became silent as his mouth was still moving, and all I could think was, "There's Lynn Hill, Tom Frost, Jim Bridwell, Royal Robbins, Randy Leavitt, Scott Franklin, Bobbi Bensman, Ron Kauk, Christian Griffith, Mia Axon, and one hundred more superstar climbers all in front of me! Jim eventually left me sitting there to regain consciousness, which took about one hour. I could not remember what Jim wanted me to do at the show for him, so I started walking around, gathering signatures on posters and books and shaking hands with everybody.
15 years ago when the economy was very good, there were bucket loads of free keychain carabiners at every booth, free full size climbing hold samples, shirts, hats, and tons of free trial size products. At one show alone, I brought home over 100 different manufacturer keychain carabiners, besides suitcases full of other stuff. As the economy worsened, the schwag became very minimal, and today at many booths you have to ask to receive one sticker. I became friends with many wonderful people over the years which are still generous to me at the shows to this day.
I noticed that Malcolm of Great Trango Holdings had his booth at the show, so I wore his Trango T-shirt at the show with pride! I took this Trango shirt sponsorship idea to the next level, where eventually Patagonia was my Lip-Goo sponsor, Yates was my hat sponsor, FISH was my T-shirt Sponsor which I wore on all climbs over two pitches long, Blue Water was my Rope Bag Sponsor, Prana became my pants sponsor. Sure they may be seconds, but Beaver gave me a closet load of them! Sterling was my cord sponsor, Bison was my keychain sponsor, Metolius was my chalk sponsor, and then eventually I was approached by Evolv sports Designs, and I proudly have been wearing and supporting Evolv shoes for many years now!
I find it interesting that out of all of these manufacturers, not one of them even asked what ratings I was sending at the time. In this modern age, there are so many 5.13 climbers all fighting to get a sponsorship, stating how good of a climber they are, and how deserving they are for this sponsorship. I was rewarded with sponsorships by showing how much I just love being a rock climber, and how appreciative I am to the manufacturers who believe in me. Even though it was just a simple T-shirt, I still to this day hugely respect Malcolm Daly for saying to me "Your Sponsored." Over the years, Malcolm has donated many fantastic items to my museum, and even though we don't see each other maybe just twice a year, I still consider him a very close friend.
This is an older T-shirt, but once again given to me from Trango.
I still have the original Trango T-shirt somewhere in storage.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2011 - 08:15am PT
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Phoenix Bouldering Contest Memories
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2011 - 08:17am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2011 - 08:18am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2011 - 08:20am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2011 - 08:21am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2011 - 08:23am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 24, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
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Got one! Never seen anodizing that color elsewhere!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 24, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
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Classic shot of Hahn. Fukker raised some serious hell that year, and won 3 raffles.
I got screwed by the new scoring/divisions thing. Did one too many problems and ended up in last place. Classic late night times with The Bird...Hendrix's Star Spangled Banner...sore tips...thanks Marty.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 24, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
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Marty that PBC stuff is great! It's like that old kids show where you see people through the lolly pop.... I see Felicia, I see Richard, I see Malcom, I see skinny Jim.....
That photo of Richard Horst is great as he hangs his head during the Star Spangled Banner. Richard was a Navy man, thanks for serving!
I can't believe that you saved that stupid tag for Amber's P Nuttles sales. She did go to camp but a byproduct of that was Russ and I gaining many pounds. Yummmm, P Nuttles!!!
Lot's of great things came out of the PBC. Friendships, good times, drunk nights, extreme cold, opressive heat, wet gear, many stressful months of preparation. As a bonus I found my FISH and with the author of this threads help took 1st place for my age the only year I competed. Almost snuck in with 1st place women's local but that young, strong girl robbed me with a single pull!
Thanks for all the coaching Marty and great times then and now.
xo
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2011 - 10:05pm PT
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HISTORY LESSON VOL 3 - ANSWERS
Question: We all remember the Phoenix Bouldering Competitions.
The Competitions ran from 1983-2004
Which year/years were there no competitor Phoenix Bouldering Contest T-shirts? And why?
Answer: There are actually 6 competitions that there were no Phoenix Bouldering Contest T-shirts.
1983 - First year was called Central Arizona Bouldering Contest. First year had no T-shirt at all.
1984 - Competition is still called Central Arizona Bouldering Contest. T-shirts start here but not PBC.
1985 - Competition is still called Central Arizona Bouldering Contest. Still not PBC.
1986 - Competition is still called Central Arizona Bouldering Contest. Still not PBC. 1987 was the year that the competition name was changed to the Phoenix Bouldering Contest.
1999 - There was no competition this year. Jaybro gets the answer correct Yes, but Jaybro also guessed 1998 which is wrong answer. The poster shown with the history question is the 16th 1998 competition and states "The Last." Of course Jim Waugh after the 10th competition always stated that it was the last one he will ever do, all the way up to 2004, which was the last comp.
2004 - Jim changed the competition name to the Phoenix Boulder Blast, so not PBC. Jim always said that the word "Contest" sounded like a kids birthday party event, not a major competition, hence the name change.
History notes:
1983 comp held at Camelback Mtn - Bolus area - 35 competitors
1984 comp held at Beardsley Boulder Pile - 53 competitors
1985 comp held at Camelback Mtn - Bolus area - 62 competitors
1986 comp held at Beardsley Boulder Pile - 125 competitors
1987 comp held at Camelback Mtn - Bolus area - 150 competitors
1988 comp held at South Mtn - Boy Scout Ranch - 246 competitors
1989-2004 comps held at Oak Flat, Superior AZ - 1989 had 340 competitors and grew to over 600 competitors in 2004.
The competitor entry fee in 1983 was $2.00, and a rope was the first place prize.
Chris Sharma won the overall 1996 competition at age 14.
Bobbi Bensman has the most first place wins in the Womans category.
Chris Sharma has the most first place wins in the Mens category.
Jim Waugh was involved with every competition except for 1994/11th PBC, where it was ran by David Gunn, Sandy Draus, Debra DePiero and Brad Sanders.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 24, 2011 - 10:11pm PT
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I'll try to dig up the pic of all the slim price booze FISH used to roll out at those comps.... the pic I'm thinking of is a pickup truck bed full to the gills with swill. Those were some unreal times!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Jul 24, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
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Mmmmmmm. Swill.
Skully approved.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Jul 24, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
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Marty,
Good on you man for doing what you do. The young people in the sport should know the history and the personalities that made Climbing the Greatest sport and life style in the world. I have some old school hand made pieces from the early 60’s now I know where to send them. (someday).
Thanks, DT.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2011 - 01:42am PT
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Steve Grossman, The Dolt Purple Spider Nut #6 is amazing! Thanks for sharing the pictures! I have only seen it in the black and white photo copy that Gary Neptune sent me years ago. Finally I am seeing the actual color. Thanks! The next mystery is finding out how rare it is and how rare the #10 Trunut is.
If possible, can you give me measurements of your #6. Is it 1 1/8" x ?
Susan, I still consider you the strongest local Female that year you competed. Jim should still get slapped for slipping in that girls scorecard when she never paid to compete. Those Penuttles were great! I purchased a few or more containers in support of Amber's camp experience.
Rock on! Marty
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 10:56am PT
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Inch and an eighth in diameter and inch and a quarter long...
If this is your first sighting, then rare it is, me bucko!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2011 - 09:05am PT
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T-Shirts from the Phoenix Bouldering Competitions
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2011 - 09:07am PT
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So what killed the Phoenix Bouldering Contest?
So I don't shoot myself in the foot here, I will say, "In Martys opinion," The Phoenix Bouldering Contest stopped because of two words, Control and Greed. Jim Waugh didn't necessarily create the bouldering contest himself, it was a growth of ideas from many people which channelled it into a successful event. Two other minds that helped the PBC grow were David Gunn and Sandy Draus. Plus Debra DePiero, Tim Penner, Saundra Murphy and many others. Jim was the overall director, and the weight of the entire event running smoothly was on his shoulders. Jim was lucky that he had great people working for him for free, who knew many people in the industry that helped obtain sponsorships, etc. For example, my Xwife is in the publishing business so putting together Media packages for the PBC was an easy task. My passion and persistence got the TV crews to cover the comps. Susan Peplow knows everybody in the climbing industry so getting sponsors was easier, but a stressful task to say the least. Richard Horst and Greg Varela love to find and create new boulder problems, so they were course setters for the comp. Jim had many friends that were already working in certain fields of businesses that directly correlated into the departments of the PBCs needs.
Control and Greed. Over time the Phoenix Bouldering Contest grew to over 600+ competitors and around 1000 spectators all camping in one area. It was massive, but somehow it was very organized. However over time the comp became a dumping ground for manufacturers to get rid of their factory defect products, also known as factory seconds. The deals were amazing! Climbing shoes for $25 a pair, ropes for $60, triple fold crash pads for $75, any size climbing hold for $2 each, back packs, clothing, carabiners and whatever a climber needed was there at the PBC. I know every year I brought along $1000 to spend knowing the deals would be there, and I always overspent. What was happening is that the local climbing stores in Arizona, and the states surrounding Arizona, noticed a huge decline in their climbing product sales. Nobody needed backpacks, crash pads, ropes, or shoes. Remember this is back before the internet was around, or when the internet was just starting to gain speed. Jim had sponsor contracts with the sponsors that were showing gear which stated that they should not be selling gear, just showing their products. Many sponsors respected this since they did not want to sell their products outside their promises made to their retailers that carried their products. Other sponsors kept up with the dumping of their seconds. I never saw the harm in this until I owned a climbing store myself, then it dawned on me the damage the PBC was causing to the retailers.
Dave Baker, the previous owner of the Summit Hut in Tucson, eventually brought this awareness to all of the climbing stores in AZ, CA, NV, TX, and NM. All of these stores agreed to not carry any products that were SOLD by sponsors at the PBC, that found it okay to dump their gear and undercut their retailers. This became a big problem! One example is that PrAna clothing brought along hundreds/thousands(?) of pieces of clothing to the PBC. Once the PrAna booth was opened, these thousands(?) all sold within three hours. If you were not in the line before Friday night, the PrAna booth was totally empty by then. PrAna brought along massage tables and had poster signings to keep their booth having climber interest for the final days of the comp. I am not picking on PrAna because I am dedicated to Beaver, but this example shows that all of the competitors knew how the "schwag and deal" system worked, and how quickly so many items were sold. On the Sponsor contract, the sponsor had to remain at the comp for the entire three days, but some still unloaded their gear quickly and left leaving an unoccupied booth at the comp. Other companies still unloaded hundreds of pairs of shoes even though they agreed not to do that anymore. It was becoming a total carnival of destruction to the PBC organizers. The competitors however found it to be a dream come true. I am no Saint when it comes to this dreamy feeling. I too spent every penny I had on the deals. The majority of the sponsors were really cool about the whole situation so don't get me wrong! This was the best Bouldering competition in the world, but it only takes a few bad apples to ruin the entire basket.
Control and Greed. In 2003/2004, the mine located on the hill 1/2 mile up the road from Oak Flat Campground, was causing problems for the PBC. The mine was not the overall problem where the mine, Resolution Copper Company, generously was waving a big wad of cash to become one of the PBC sponsors. This was great for the PBC organizers since everybody was always working for free on the event. The extra cash could relieve some of the developing tension felt by the volunteers massive responsibilities, and the PBC competition scrapped by every year without hardly putting any money in Jim's pocket for his efforts. But this new Mine sponsorship idea did not sit well with others. Many sponsors threatened to drop their commitment to the PBC if the Mine was a sponsor of the event. The Arizona Mountaineering Club backed off saying if the Mine is a sponsor, you loose over one hundred volunteers. The City of Superior stated that if the Mine is NOT a sponsor, you will have no trash service, nor will you have no outhouses or anything from the City of Superior as support. With no trash service or outhouses at the event, the Tonto National Forest would not give the necessary permits to have the event on their land. Jim just wanted to have a simple huge climbers festival, but it was everybody else that eventually started calling the shots. Jim's event went out of control and fell into many heated bickering fights between Organizations, Manufacturer sponsors, and City departments. It is interesting that Jim stood back from the fight as the Mine continued to wave their cash to keep the competition alive. Not many sponsors were willing to give more cash to save the competition, nor did they want the Mines cash to be involved.
This beautiful event was dead! Control and Greed took over the Phoenix Bouldering Contest, instead of everybody just playing nice in the playground sandbox. Once politics is added to anything, you might as well just place a cement slab where the sandbox used to be, because the fun will never resume without some outside force controlling it. Jim was the one that should of had control since it was his competition. Others eventually did not see it that way. Jim Waugh eventually moved away from the USA, and now happily lives in Thailand. He has been, and still is, the Climbing organizer for the Asian X-games.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2011 - 09:35am PT
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I do not believe Yates ever created the Big Dude #4, there are only a few Big Dude #5s created.
Mainly #6 and #7 was created.
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ChampionSleeper
Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Jul 27, 2011 - 10:12am PT
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Great stuff Marty. The results from the 17th PBC are pretty impressive. It's cool to see the local climbers holding their own against the pros and soon to be pros. Happy to see that Caldwell beat Graham too!
I would say keep it up, but I'm not getting anything done at work now and its all your fault!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2011 - 01:32am PT
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I found a few of my nut tools. I know I have more somewhere.....
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2011 - 01:33am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Jul 28, 2011 - 02:55am PT
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I am liking this thread a bunch.
Thanks Marty.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 28, 2011 - 11:40am PT
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WOW!
That is a great collection of nut tools.
Thanks for taking the time to dig those out, photograph, and post here!
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ChampionSleeper
Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Jul 29, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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Crazy stuff. Some cool features in those. My ideal nut tool would have a nice hand bashing surface, an integral carabiner gate, and a wrench for tightening bolts.
What are the wingnuts for?
How do spring loaded tools work?
Also, Page 4 is unacceptable.
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Jul 29, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
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^^^
It's called the TORQUE by Metolius.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 04:46am PT
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The original nut tool was a Lost Arrow and a hammer! :-)
They still belong in the piton and hammer parts of the collection, though.
Multi-use tools....
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2011 - 07:22pm PT
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The 2 wing nut Nut tools are used together to create a longer tool to retrieve cams that are jammed too far back in the crack. These two tools shown are made of aluminum and titanium by AZ's own Chuckwalla Company. Chuckwallas are the name of the first Tri-nuts created, which were somehow manufactured by Omega Pacific around the Chuckwalla patent.
The two spring loaded devices are used to retrieve cam devices that are jammed in the crack. The spring and wing nut lock keep tension on the cam lobes keeping them closed, while the climber works hands free with other tools releasing the individual cam lobes and removing it from the crack. In theory this works great, but I have gone after many stuck cams and it is not as easy to get them out as one may think. For stuck cams I use this spring device, two coat hangers with different hook bends on them, and a second person using a Chouinard crag hammer. A gent by the name of Peter Dorrestein of AZ was a master of removing stuck devices. He created tools to unscrew the cam axle bolts and then removed the cams lobe by lobe.
I have a Chouinard Long Dong which looks like the Dolt nut tools above but shorter. I believe it is presently in the display at the rock gym. They basically are a longer Lost Arrow piton with no pick notch.
In addition to these nut tools shown, Stephane in Corsica has 20+ more other nut tools that I am still searching for. Forrest Bam nut tool is one of them. Boo Dawg has a Dolt leather nut tool holder shown in the Dolt Stories thread.
Sorry but no History lesson this week or next week. Slider history is next so be ready! This week was my 47th birthday which my kids used my wallet to create the fun at Wet and Wild water park. Totally awesome fun!!! Next week is the OR show in Utah where I will be busy catching up with friends!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2011 - 07:30pm PT
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For my 47th Birthday I decided to put on the Bridwell shirt. The jeans are what I wore back in 1981, 1982 in high school in Michigan. I had many hippie clothes that I wore throughout my Junior and Senior year, and listened to over one hundred different Jimi Hendrix albums. That's just another collection that's packed away in storage. The Bridwell shirt is off to the OR show where it will be on display at the show, then it is being shipped to the Yosemite Museum where it belongs.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 30, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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Marty: Great photo and great destination for the shirt. Hopefully, I'll see it, and maybe even run into you at OR. My appointment schedule doesn't lighten up until Sunday.
Thanks for all the great photos!
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Double D
climber
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Jul 30, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
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That shirt's seen some mileage...
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2011 - 11:36am PT
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Chouinard Long Dong
Camp nut tool with notch
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 05:05am PT
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Climbing Magazine ad - October 1983
Wow the price was pricey even in 1983. No mfg stamp. Made of aluminum.
My other Retriever is from Vaude and is made of titanium.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 05:10am PT
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Climbing Magazine December 1985.
The article is called Pumping Wood by Bob Murray under the Training section.
Home gyms sure have come a long way since then!
It looks like there is only one route per side.
Only one foothold on that lower photo and just a little reachy huh!
The next magazine training article must have talked about tendon failure while training on home woodies!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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This is likely the only time that I'm gonna be able to tweak your inner freak twice in a week! A mint #10!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2011 - 01:16pm PT
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Steve,
What is cool about that #10 Dolt Trunut is that it is uncolored. Hmmmm....
A little scratchy looking but close to mint, or unused.
It also has a "Z" stamp on it (?) which takes more away from mint.
Maybe there is a #6 uncolored Spidernut out there as well.
Where are you digging up these Dolt items at? Lauria's house?
Fun stuff for sure! Nice nuts dude!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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That shirt! oh how I miss paisley. I took one look at it and I heard
"Anger he smiles tow'ring shiny metallic purple armour.
Queen jealousy, envy waits behind him.
Her fiery green gown sneers at the grassy ground.
Blue are the life giving waters taking for granted,
They quietly understand"
spinning around in my head.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A local fellow, Jim Phillips, kindly sold me this handful of mint Doltnuts.
The purchase starts to fill in my set nicely!
He also gave me a #8 Saddlewedge for Stephane!
Thanks Jim!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Marty- First commercially sold nut tool? Leeper four-hole?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2011 - 12:47am PT
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I guess the question is:
Is the Long Dong piton really considered a nut tool?
It was not intended to be one originally.
I have no Chouinard info from 1961-1964. Dolt catalog 1960 shows no Chouinard Long Dong piton. Chouinard Catalog 1965 shows Long Dong piton.
Ed Leeper started making bolt hangers in 1964. The Leeper nut tool was made in the 1960s but I will have to research when.
Maybe this calls out for shuffling through the old Summit Magazines, or REI catalogs for the answer? Stephane in Corsica may already know the history of the first Nut Tools.
I have some old Leeper catalogs but they are in the storage. I will retrieve them when I return from the Outdoor Retailers show on Monday.
So the main question is: What company was first to manufacture nut tools?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2011 - 12:55am PT
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This is the Bridwell shirt display that is going to be shown this weekend in the Omega Pacific booth at the Outdoor Retailers Show in Salt Lake City, UT. After the show this famous shirt is being shipped to it's new home in the Yosemite Museum.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I bet Leeper leads this one. Folks used to use modified slot track shelving brackets, BITD.
The Long Dong is a piton shape functionally until the blade becomes spread thinner and notched as a functional nut tool in the eighties.
The middle Arrow is a Long Dong.
Signed 80's Lost Arrow Nut Tool.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2011 - 02:41am PT
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The longer Chouinard nut tool version is called a "Super Long Dong"
Nice signatures!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Ahhh, the Bridwell shirt! Silly me, I thought this was sort of mandatory for El Cap:
Photo on top of El Cap, after 11 stormy days on PO Wall, 1984. Ran out of food, dropped one sleeping bag, other (down, of course) soaked, nearly died from cold; but, yay, still had the floral shirt!
Photo: Go-Bee, taken with Gobee's grandpa's Argus camera, borrowed for the climb.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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So, Fred Beckey came to visit Boulder. He brought his stuff in a Dolt haul bag. "Just drag it" he says as we make our way from the bus station to the waiting car. "It drags really well" and I had to laugh, for him the bag is just a bag. He was perplexed at me even bothering to take a photo of the thing.
Classic.
Reminds me of bringing the Totem Pole register from Eric Bjornstad to the AAC library. Somewhere along I-70, maybe around Vail, the item changed from being a rusty old can with names (almost all of people I've met) written on bits of curled paper, to a museum-quality artifact.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
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Doltpatch ad from Summit magazine July/August 1969
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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Before I move on with this thread, I want to get back to where I am at with my spiritual quest. This thread started with my quest. In a nut shell I was born and raised in the Catholic church and stopped going to church around the age of 18. During my leg break July 2009 age 45, I experienced a major spiritual awakening that put me back into church to search for what spirituality means to ME. I have reread the Bible and have listened to many programs on different religions, talked to many priests about the subject, reading many books, have an amazing spiritual guide that has healed me, been through confessions in church and basically became very transparent in my overall life. I left myself with nothing to hide and this thread tells my story.
I still go to the Catholic church twice a month because it helps remind me that I am searching for the meaning of Spirituality. Kind of like going to the rock gym a few times a week to train makes you a stronger climber for your weekend outdoor sends. It is easy in life to get re-caught up in the normality of life, over what this life is actually/maybe all about. I like to stay out of this grove of life that many seem to like to stay in. Something like what is seen through the eyes is the way, which I do not believe it is. I like to be the driver of the vehicle, not the passenger being lead to where ever.
I go to church because I want to, not because it is "The Way." I still give money to the church because I believe the church money does go to good use to help many in need. There are many problems in this world in many countries that this, or some of this money eventually gets to. I do not believe the money just goes into the Priests pockets. Give the amount you want, over the suggested amount you perceive. I notice that not many give money during the mass. Is just one dollar that hard to give? I feel comfortable and welcomed when I am in church, and I am sometimes the loudest singer. I pray when I am at church, but I believe that God hears my prayers and my thoughts the same while I am at home, out climbing, or driving in my truck. I notice that many people who go to church rush in late and leave early like it is some "Game." Or a game to tell others that you went to church that day. If God knows everything that you do, I am sure God knows everything you are thinking as well, and knows the game you are playing. I arrive to church 15 minutes before mass starts, and the parking lot is practically empty. I notice that after mass the parking lot is packed. After mass many people rush to get out of the church parking lot in a rude fashion, instead of giving way to their fellow others. What is the rush? I like to stay after to thank the Priest for his good service and message that day, and then leave 10 minutes later when the parking lot is pretty much empty. I visit the gift shop occasionally to see what is new. Don't get me wrong since I am not scolding the people that go to church. I have met many wonderful people, young and old, that love going to church. Is it necessary for somebody to go to church? I don't know but if you feel that it is dumb to be there, then why be there? I believe many people don't understand why they are even in church. I find the new "Auto Tithing" system that the church has recently introduced to be an ugly form of corruption. The church should continue to encourage people to give honorably, over just taking money from peoples bank accounts.
My x-wife Randi was raised by non-practicing Jewish parents. This makes my kids half Jewish and half Catholic, but neither of my kids were baptized or anything. So my kids are basically non religion? I say that Randi's parents are non practicing since they wave proudly that fact that they are Jewish, but do not go to Synagogue, and hid behind a Christmas tree in their house for many years as Randi and her sister were raised as kids. This hiding could be due to racism in the early years in America, or just the fact that the parents never stood firm on their religious beliefs. I read the Old Testament in the Bible and am rereading it in the expanded form to understand the true Jewish beliefs. I even sat through a Passover meal which followed the religious tradition step by step. I found it to be a very Holy experience. The Jewish faith does not include Jesus in it so I feel that the Jewish religion is not what I consider spiritual. I define it as very Holy, and only very Holy to the people that follow the Jewish faith by the book. Even if Jesus is not the Messiah, Jesus was an incredible teacher promoting all to walk in Love. I don't follow Jesus's words as a "have to" way in my life. Jesus's words to me are food for thought. And the food Jesus is serving is the best food I have ever tasted! Sorry Mom, your food is second best for sure!!!
My good friend Rich keeps me up to date with his Mormon beliefs, which I find interesting. If the Joseph Smith tablets surface some day, watch out religion. I guess you can say that about the two stone tablets of Moses as well. The Book of Mormon parallels the same teachings as Jesus, but the Mormon church is more of their members being in a community like a family. Rich at times seems to be happy with this family belonging, but at the same time feels guilty or in sin, since he has no money and the Mormon church has its certain ways of "must give", and being in family. I feel that the Mormon way is not the way for me due to the control of the individuals they seem to want to have. Although if you love being Mormon and truly follow the Mormon way, you will lead a good life.
I just finished the book "Conversations With God" by Neale Donald Walsch. It is a very amazing book which talks about the reason our spirit is here on Earth is just for an adventure. We are all Gods equal to God himself, and the book does a good job of explaining the meaning of "Unconditional Love." There is no devil, no Hell, no scolding, and possibly Hitler is now my next door neighbor that lets me use his pool on the weekends. The book however left me very empty as to what is the point of life. I will however recommend everybody to read this book. It is quite interesting!! There are a few more books in this series that are on my tick list to read. I also am reading a book called "Self Realization" which talks about the Krishna Consciousness and the meaning of Unconditional Love. I find the book to be very pleasing as humans can once again become animals of lesser value due to their actions in this life. As humans, we are already at the highest level closest to God, but we end up developing ourselves as simple animals, and start over as a lesser creature depending how bad you are in this life. I still have a long way to go to finish this book.
What I find while talking to many many many people about religion, is major frustration. As though each person knows what they are talking about, and will fight you to show that they know, and that THEY are following the "Correct" way. Everybody has read the Bible, but everybody defends their different view of what the words mean to them, or what they have been taught by another person or organization. I am just Marty the climber who is asking a few questions. Unfortunately I always seem to leave the conversation with my tail between my legs, because "I didn't know what the other person believes as being TRUE." But what is true?
I went back to the Bible and am reading books that talk in full about what every verse of the Bible really means. Do I need to know this information to get to Heaven? Probably not but I am on a quest for ME to know, not to teach everybody what is right or what is wrong. I get bummed out when people return answers to me that always seem to have daggers attached. I thought God was all about "Unconditional Love," as most people carry the "Must Or Else" statement in their life."
When I stand outside alone and gaze at the mountain peaks, I get a sense of complete peace. The feeling of the breeze in my hair and the delicate but very beautiful fields of flowers dancing in this breeze, makes me feel that I am closer to spiritual peace over what is written in books and "The Way." I do believe there is a purpose for this quest that I am on, and I believe that God is guiding me and helping me find the answers that I seek.
My spiritual teachers have told me that I have reached the levels of spiritual development. I have truly found who I am, and now I am curious of where I am to go.
Marty's search for the meaning of Spirituality continues….
Marty Karabin
One Dollar Ministry
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
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The August 4-7 Outdoor Retailers Show this weekend was totally awesome! First of all I give a huge shout out to my paparazzi team: Robert Olson, Nicholas Oxentenko (Neo), and Jaime Gangi! My face still hurts from smiling and laughing for 4 days straight. I love you guys, and it was awesome running around with you! We dominated many of the raffles with Robert wining Five Ten shoes. Neo twice winning Red Chili shoes on the fastest 3-time traverse, I won a Edelrid rope being the fastest and yet to be beat harness tie-in with a figure 8 knot at 7 seconds! Neo won 2 Edelrid ropes being the fastest on the rope coil backpack tie at 44 seconds, and Neo won another Edelrid rope on the second heat of the harness figure 8 knot tie in at 11 seconds. Robert was 4 seconds short from winning the Ice Axe dead hang, and a few short on the pull-up contest. I went into the second place double showdown in the Petzl Timmy O'Neil rodeo clip contest and lost to Rock-Paper-Scissors against Ryan Scott. We drew a good crowd on that final round for sure! Timmy is awesome and always draws a good crowd! On every contest heat one of us placed for a prize but knowing Alison Osius, she always hooked us up anyways. We love you Alison!! We all came home with our luggage busting at the seams with gifts and schwag from the show.
A big thanks goes to the AZ Hiking Shack for sponsoring us at the show! Thanks Dale! Also thanks Scott and crew from the Tufa Gear Shop, for dragging a few of the bigger items back home for us that we received at the show.
I thank everybody again for the gifts we received at the show. So many manufacturers and climbing stars were very generous gifting us and giving us tons of energy to continue the museums mission of climbing gear preservation! I received hundreds of hugs and kisses and an amazing amount of support for the museum. Thank you, thank you, thank you all again and again!!!
Omega Pacific thanks once again for letting Robert and I display our museum interest at your booth. I had the Jim Bridwell shirt on display, and Robert created a display of Forrest products in a shadow box. Omega Pacific you have always been there for us and we will continue the fun with new displays. Thanks Michael and Jon and the Omega team!
I have many photos to share, but I am still in the process of gathering them so be patient. I have many people to thank for show gifts that were received, and will send you lots of Love accompanied with the photos we took. Let's catch up with a few of this threads past questions and comments:
I spoke to Chris Sharma for a brief moment about his feelings about Marty's comments on this thread concerning reasons for him leaving the USA. Chris stated that he loves the USA and enjoys the hard climbs it offers, but loves his new adventures in Spain. He stated that he is such a public icon, that he is constantly feeling under massive pressure to be, or always be the icon, and this is a battle that wears him out. This is a battle that he is overcoming by being away and just having fun with friends and finding new adventures in his life without having the feeling that the public is demanding something out of him. Chris has found peace in Spain and is very happy with his life. Thanks again Chris and Daila for the many photo signatures you gave us at the show!
I had a chance to talk to Malcolm Daly and did not realize that he left the Great Trango Holding company, and is presently retired. I send you tons of energy my good friend on your new retired life and other fun things your are into. I got to meet Malcolm's daughter, and his son Mason is a rep for Evolv.
Dale Bard finally got his chance to touch the famous Jim Bridwell Yosemite shirt. Dale was on the First Ascent of "Sea of Dreams" where Bridwell wore the shirt during the ascent in 1978. This story is featured in Rock & Ice September 2011 issue #196 page 42 which shows Bard, Bridwell and the shirt. It was fun Dale hanging with you at the show! I am glad that Robert had a chance to meet you and get your signature on a few photos. John Long or Jim Bridwell did not attend the show.
Of course I saw Bobbi Bensman at the show. She still is in great shape like she could onsite 5.13s for breakfast. She is a rep for Mammut and Soloman and looked tired from running booth to booth to catch her appointments. Dana Hollister…. Bobbi gave me a gift to give to you! Also Dana I give you a huge THANKS for the boxes of gear you donated to the museum the day before the show. Wow! I mean WOW! Dief donated many of your pieces to Roberts collection as well. Robert says WOW also! Thanks and it was great catching up with you!!!
We bumped into Jim Waugh and his wife (Snow White) at the show. It was a great surprise to see him and I gave him a strong hug for all of us that miss him being around. He is enjoying his life in Thailand.
Talking to David Graham this weekend about "The Island" and seeing his passion in the belief made me realize that I already was a part of it. I have always been a part of it. I just hesitated to ALWAYS step up in my life, and at times I let myself follow the norm seen through the eyes of the most. I don't like the control of the most and just want to be me. This Marty thread is an example of me being me and others can see, this is me.
David states: Try the Island out. It's for people like you and me, anyone can come. Who needs a home when you’ve got one all the time! Its not a place, but a state of mind, so remember the motto, "Its not where you are going, its where you are from." Welcome to gypsy’s, nomads, and anyone else who wants to come, there is lots of room as its an imaginary, non-physical destination. Great times.
I love your spiritual Island message Dave, and hope you can pound it into everybody's reality.
Beaver from Prana you will always be my inspiration! I love how you personally tower above every crowd.
Misty Mountain Threadworks is now my harness sponsor! I didn't even ask them or give them my resume showing the many 5.2 nasty runout chimneys that I established over the years. They just said that I was the person they wanted to be on their team. I proudly wear the awesome Misty Mountain Threadworks Cadillac harness when I am coursesetting at the gym, or sending and establishing routes in the outdoors. Next time you want security and a rugged harness keeping you safe on your next adventure, choose Misty Mountain Threadworks! Thank you so much Misty! I am proud to be on your team! Now let's talk about Zebra harness fabrics!!!
John Yates answered the question on HISTORY LESSON VOL 1 on what the giant screamer pictured was created for. At first there was an even larger screamer created that was used for the take-offs of F16s planes that were towing Drone planes. The F16s were ripping the drones fuselage by the drag of the two planes coming to the same speed at take off. The screamer eased the speed difference as the planes took off into the air. The drones were used as target practice.
Then came the pictured screamer (Marty's), which is a prototype used for airplanes while the planes were being taxied on the deck of Navy ships. If the airplane lost its hydraulic brakes, Navy individuals following the plane hooked the plane cable to the deck of the ship to stop a potential accident. The screamer was used to ease the shock between the cable and the airplane. The design was changed later to a multi loop larger screamer with a different sewing/breaking pattern.
On the Big Dudes advertisement shown earlier on this thread with the curved lobes, no #4s were created. Only a few #5s were created. Many #6 and #7 Big Dudes were created and then the lobe design was changed, and then the Big Dudes were mass produced.
Thanks again John for the moonshine at the show, and the titty twister you gave me. Ouch! Fernando I know you were screening him as he came out of nowhere delivering his devious purple nurple attack. I thank you John for your dedication of creating products that assist all that are presently in the service of keeping our country safe!
The only bad vibe I felt at the Outdoor Retailers show was that there was no climbing competition. Every show there is usually some competition created for all of the dedicated comp goers to get chalked up together, amateur and superpro. I know that the main super comp fell through, but why was there no last minute "simple" citizens comp created at the Front, or at Momentum? Most pro climbers understood the situation and would have accepted a simple 1, 2, 3 ribbon as a prize just to have fun climbing together.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 09:14am PT
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Last call for the Bridwell shirt…….
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 09:15am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 09:15am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 09:15am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 09:17am PT
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The Next person to put on the Bridwell shirt will probably be Ken.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 19, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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I like how the access guy has the Largo/Michael Jackson, one-glove thing going....
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
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Wednesday surgery was a success. I finally got the agave spike surgically removed from my right hand middle finger. This bad boy was in my finger for over two months. I can't believe I was still course setting at the gym and somewhat climbing using my finger. Bad Flagstaff AZ agave, bad!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 03:09pm PT
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Okay let's talk about some Sliders....
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
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HISTORY LESSON VOL 4
10 slider devices shown. On this round I am looking for name of the Slider and Manufacturer who created it.
BONUS: Name the date they were first sold.
SUPER BONUS: Besides being sliders, what does slider #4 and #5 have in common?
Answers will be reviled this Sunday night just after dinner, AZ time.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Aug 20, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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#5 is a Rock N' Roller. I have two of them.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
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HISTORY LESSON VOL 4 - ANSWERS:
The first known slider is the "Scottie" made in 1946 by George "Scottie" Dwyer. Dwyer was a Welsh mountain guide who used the Scottie personally, but never manufactured the device.
Slider item #1 - Porter Slider (early c1970s - USA) - available in 5 sizes.
The Slider in the question is #5 and was used by Jim Bridwell on the first ascent of the Pacific Ocean Wall in Yosemite CA. Somehow the slider ended up in Jay Fisks hands and was retrieved by Eric Kohl and ended up in the Karabin Museum. The Porter Sliders were created by Charlie Porter and were also called "Stackers" and "Duo Nuts."
Slider item #2 - HB - Cobra (c1989 - Wales) - available in 2 sizes.
The Cobra in the question is yellow #1. Cobras were created by Hugh Banner.
Slider item #3 - Ande - Mini Hard/Split Chocks. (c1990s - England) - available in 4 sizes.
The Split Chock in the question is white #4 and is distributed by Kong Bonaiti in Italy.
Slider item #4 - Climb Tech - Tech Nuts (c2000 - USA) -available in 6 sizes.
The Tech Nut in the question is violet #5 which is the first available set sold in the stores. Tech Nuts were created by Karl Guthrie and Joseph Schwartz who also created the removable bolt devices.
Slider item #5 - Go Pro Inc - Rock N' Roller (c1986 - USA) - available in 5 sizes.
DanaB is correct on #5 being a Rock N' Roller device.
The Rock N' Roller in the question is size red #4 which is the second generation of Rollers. Rock N' Rollers first generation were in 4 sizes listed as "A, B, C, D" and did not have the two small plastic tubes just above the nut. Rock N' Rollers were created by Karl Guthrie and Joseph Schwartz.
SUPER BONUS ANSWER: Tech Nuts (Slider item #4) and Rock N' Rollers (Slider item #5) were created by the same people.
In the photo below, the far right three Rock N' Rollers are prototypes. The green prototype is called a Tech Roller. In many climbing stores that sold Rock N' Rollers there was a testing block which Go Pro Inc supplied for climbers to test their slider devices upon to show the Rollers ultimate holding power.
Slider item #6 - Yates Gear - Wedgeez II (c1987 - USA) - available in one size.
This double sided slider is a very cool device! It was also available in a single side slider named Wedgeez I.
The photo below shows the progression of prototypes that lead up to the final device sold on the store shelves. (far right piece in photo is final item). The two devices below are the Wedgeez I final (red) and Wedgeez I prototype.
Slider item #7 - Wired Bliss - Ball Nut (c1987 - USA) - available in 3 sizes.
The Ball Nut in the question is red #2. Ball Nuts were created by Steve Byrne in Flagstaff AZ.
In the photo below, the upper left Ball Nuts are Wired Bliss prototypes. The first two on the lower left were created by Jim Waugh (c1987). The third in line (black) is called a "Pirate" created by Tim Wenger (c1987-88). The next middle three are the original Ball Nuts created by Wired Bliss which originally had a clear plastic tubing wire jacket which dissolved in the AZ heat. The lower right BallNutz are created by Trango (c1999 Korea) and the upper right Ball Nut is created by Camp (c1998 Korea).
The next photo below is Lowe/Byrne Ball Nuts (c1988 - USA) created by Greg Lowe and Steve Byrne. A thumb trigger is added which is considered second generation (left two). I am not sure if a smaller orange was ever created in the generation two set. The generation three set (c1989) was created which were originally a set of three, and then in the mid 1990s, the #4 and #5 sizes were created. The far right Ball Nut is a rare "Double Ball" which was a prototype that was never created. Donated by Mike Clifton.
Slider item #8 - DBest Mountaineering - Quickie (c1986 - USA) - available in 6 sizes.
The Quickie in the question is yellow #4 and is the first generation. The first generation carabiner loop end is dipped in plastic, and the second generation have plastic tubing for the carabiner loop end. The nut sizes also differ between the generations. The Quickies were created by Don Best.
In the photo below the top row is prototypes which one was donated by Pete Takeda. The far top right is a rare channel Quickie that were never produced donated by John Middendorf. The below set is the first generation (lower left) and second generation (lower right).
Slider item #9 - Metolius Mountain Products - Slider (c1983 - USA) - available in 5 sizes.
The Slider in the question is green #3 and was created by Doug Phillips.
From Stephane: For a year and a half, Doug Phillips tried many a combination of opposed wedging chocks before creating his Slider. The first prototypes systematically dropped out, and then Doug Phillips realized that if in theory the system should work, in practice both wedges do not generate the same coefficient of friction on either side of the crack. He compensated this by pouring some soldier, a softer material, on only one of the faces, that is in contact with the rock. Doug Phillips took out a patent on the 17th October 1983 and marketed the Sliders the same year by setting up Metolius Mountain Products. Composed of two inverted wedges made of brass, sliding one against the other, held by a dove tail, the Sliders perform well in parallel cracks of granite. Built in five different sizes, the set covered a range of 0.25 to 0.65 ouches (0.63 to 1.65cm). The market, in following years, would witness a plethora of little jewels inspired by the Sliders that could be used in flared cracks.
Slider item #10 - Faces Designs On Mountains - Slug (c1988 - England) - available in 3 sizes.
The Slug in the question is red #3 and was created by Derek Ryden, Phil Dickens, and Jim Ballard.
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Aug 25, 2011 - 06:44pm PT
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And the Bridwell shirt goes into the Yosemite history museum... It was awesome how the shirt still had a faint smell of Camel Cigarettes. Jim, Thanks for preserving this for us to enjoy all these years later. Marty, thanks for giving us all a chance to be a part of the history. Climb on!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2011 - 09:24pm PT
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Sometimes climbing manufacturers create the strangest T-shirts! In 2005, Evolv Sports gave me a t-shirt to wear which I found to be very odd. The statement on the t-shirt was "Wiener dog not made for climbing, Evolv shoes are!" The statement was accompanied with a cartoon drawing of a wiener dog, which is actually classified as a Dachshund. I always thought the t-shirt was kinda lame, but I wore it from time to time to show my support toward my sponsor. A year later in January 2006, I received a phone call from the Suzuki car company. The phone call was actually from a film company that was going to be creating a car commercial that involved rock climbing in the commercial. I have helped with television commercials, advertisements, videos, and magazine/book publications before, but hearing it was a Suzuki commercial was quite exciting. I said yes without even thinking about it.
I met with the filming staff and collected information on what they wanted me to do for the commercial. I was not the main climbing star, but was the climber that was in the finish of the commercial by climbing up to the top of the cliff face, while I was being shown from the distance. I was also in charge of somehow raising and lowering two actors in the film shoot, to make it look like they were actually rappelling into, and out of, the area of filming. One of the main stars in this commercial, believe it or not, was a climbing wiener dog.
I met with the site coordinator and the location picked for the commercial was at Papago Buttes, Eliot Ramada area which is near the Phoenix Zoo in Arizona. Back then vehicles were allowed to drive in and park at the Eliot Ramada, but today the area is closed to vehicles, but people can still hike into the area which is about 1/8 of a mile distance. I was quite familiar with the rock face that site coordinator was insisting of filming, since I created a guide map for the City of Phoenix years previous, that they use in their search and rescue missions. Yes the mountain is rock, but it is quite crumbly and not really considered a rock climbing area. One or two beginner climbers/adventurous hikers a year die on this wall since they scramble up it and either get stuck somewhere in the middle of the face in fear of continuing upwards, or can't figure out how to get back down and chance an improper descent path. The City of Phoenix Fire Department uses my MK map as a guide to safely get their fire department rescuers to the top of the mountain, where they then retrieve the stuck peoples off of the mountain via the many belay stations listed on the MK map.
The area of filming is a wall which is around 250 feet tall, so raising and lowering a climber/non-climber at that height on a crumbly rock face was out of the question in my mind. But I came up with an alternative plan by hiring one of the most creative climbing gadget riggers in town, my boss at the Phoenix Rock Gym, Paul Diefenderfer. Paul (Dief) has been hired by many construction companies, where he lowered and raised construction inspectors up and down cliff walls where new bridges and roadways were being built. Dief at the time was working with inspectors at the Hoover Dam bridge project, which the new bridge was completed about a year ago. Dief has created a device out of a sail boat winch which had the ability to safely raise and lower major amounts of weight. All I had to do was position/anchor Dief twenty or so feet above the actual filming area, and we were in business. We used two radios for communication between us, and also used visual hand signals as a secondary form of communication to give the film crew the action that they were looking for. The producer of the film was quite impressed with our climbing rigging and communication system that Dief and I came up with. The producer mentioned that he used climbing companies before, that had near disaster results to the camera equipment, the climbing riggers did not really know what they were doing, or it continually took extra hours to get the film talent into position. Dief's job was just sitting on his butt in a large cave/hueco on the climbing face for about 9 hours, winching the film talent up and down. I was the ground crew that got to be with all of the action. My job was making sure the talent/climbers were properly tied in, harness and gear looked proper for the shoot, everybody was guaranteed the highest level of safety, which included the climbers and film crew below.
The commercial was created to introduce the new Suzuki Grand Vitara. A macho climber arrives at the mountain, and starts to scale it exclaiming that the terrain is rugged just like his Suzuki Grand Vitara. Suddenly a regular guy who has his child in his backpack, groceries in his arm, and his dog hanging from his harness rappels into the scene exclaiming that the Suzuki Grand Vitara is made for regular guys too. The regular guy continues to rappel out of the scene leaving the macho climber stunned. The macho climber continues to scale the cliff face to the top to show the height of the mountain. All of this was for commercials being aired only in Canada, and the speaking was all in French.
I was handed a script that showed storyboards for each scene to be filmed, and then it dawned on me on how many millions of dollars that Suzuki was pouring into this one commercial. I was instructed to meet at a resort in Scottsdale with the wardrobe department to get fitted in many different outfit possibilities. The shoot date was for January 25, 26, and 27 of 2006. January 27th was the main filming date where the 25th and 26th were for setting up the shoot. The City of Phoenix Parks Department allowed the film crew to build a wooden stage with rail tracks, below the filming area for their $100,000+ camera boom to sit upon. I set up my anchors and Dief and I made sure that we tested his devices and got the safety approval from the producers and directors.
The Eliot Ramada area became a city of RVs and shade tents. There was RVs for wardrobe, make-up, two food catering trucks, directors RV, film equipment trucks and then the RV for the wiener dog rolled in. This RV was the biggest of them all and it was all for the dog! This particular wiener dog was famous for many commercials that it was filmed in, besides magazines and videos. The wiener dog was definitely the star of the shoot. A special ergonomic harness was created for the dog, and also a climbing helmet. The selected talent was all in place, and then the shoot happened. It was a beautiful day and everything went well except for the child that was hanging in the backpack carrier was being difficult and uncooperative. The directors tried to make the best of what they had. The next day I received a phone call from the production manager that the shoot had to be redone due to the child problem.
I was instructed to meet with the production staff at the Scottsdale resort around dinner time, to view a new set of kid possibilities that were selected for the reshoot. I was a little late arriving at the meeting since I had to pick up my kids from school, get some food into their bellies, and then get to the resort through rush hour traffic. My kids were tired and irritable and wanted just to go home and were not interested in this meeting that I had to go to. But tough beans kids! We arrived to notice five new children that were with their parents that were selected as the new talent possibilities. The child that did not cry when being placed into the child carrier was going to be the child selected for the shoot. My youngest son Nicholas was having fun playing on the resort couches and crawling all over one of the directors named Brian. Brian was really nice, but was getting irritated of Nicholas playing with him. Brian's worries escalated as he watched the child talent problem continue. I could see in each of the parents eyes that they were bummed when their child was not selected for this high paying opportunity of having their child in a commercial. All of the new five possible kids were crying due to the child carrier uncertainty, and they were not even dangling off of a cliff wall yet.
The overall director, Brian and main staff was really bummed out and was trying to come up with a plan 'B' to this major problem. At the same time my son Nicholas was still playing his games. I apologized repeatedly to Brian for Nicholas's rather rude behavior. I remember the directors words perfectly as Brian jumped out of his seat pushing Nicholas to the side and said to him "Nicholas you have to stop that NOW," then Brian paused, smiled and exclaimed "Nicholas, Nicholas, Nicholas, can you get into that child carrier?" Nicholas went over, slipped into the child carrier, was put onto the actors back and then Nicholas said" What's the big deal, no problem?" Brian ran over and kissed Nicholas on the forehead and had the hugest smile on his face. Brian and the staff were glowing in excitement! My son Nicholas was at that moment hired as a main talent for the Suzuki commercial, that was shot the next day. Nicholas had to hang out in that child carrier for 5 hours during all of the filming, but he was having fun with the whole experience, especially having a wiener dog next to him the whole time. The dog and Nicholas were rested in between shots, then Dief raised them up back into position.
On the final day of shooting, I wore the Evolv Wiener Dog t-shirt and everybody could not believe the shirt was created before this commercial came to be. The filming was a success! All of us got paid many thousands for our parts in the shoot, and Nicholas to this day still receives royalty checks every time that commercial is even mentioned. Nicholas's pay has exceeded $11,000 for his 5 hours of work. We allowed him to buy a few toys and games with the money, and the rest went into his college fund. Trevor Cornish with Spy Films was the overall Director. On a sad note, the assistant director/producer named Brian Atkinson at the time was quitting smoking. He was chewing Nicorette gum to relieve his cigarette cravings, and shortly after the commercial was completed, he died from what they believe was from Nicorette Gum intoxication. Chewing over 30 pieces of gum per day. Brian was in his mid 30s.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Aug 27, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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Great story marty! WOW!
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Aug 29, 2011 - 10:34am PT
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Dude this story never gets old to me! I love how Nicholas is like, Meh, no prob, Allez! Totally awesome.
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James Doty
Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
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Aug 29, 2011 - 11:27am PT
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Great story. Thanks for that.
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James Doty
Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
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Aug 29, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
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Been awhile B.A. Whats' up? We worked together in Dallas.
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The Climber Neo
Boulder climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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Aug 30, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
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I remember that commercial shoot at Papago, it was pretty cool to be able to hang out on set, always great memories Marty!! much love!!
-Neo
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2011 - 11:14am PT
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I don't know if you sharing is proud or crazy.
Especially as I continued to read further and found out you were an industry dude.
Personaly, if I meet Buddha on the road, I'm going to kill him.
So anyone professing great spiritual quests is suspect.
Jesus didn't bother to tell you how to save you house, marriage, or children's youth in your meeting with him?
RENOUNCE your climbing gear collection....RENOUNCE IT!
or sell it and make your mortgage. DUH.
Handjam Belay: I had to quote your words so you will remember what you wrote. I made a shout out so possibly some famous climber with a lot of money will create a building to call it a climbing museum, and my enormous collection will be DONATED to it for all to enjoy. You are stating that you want to murder spiritual people, and you say I have a problem? Are you upset that your prayers have not been answered, so you want to personally kill people for that reason? Otherwise why would you make a statement that you personally want to kill Buddha? You professing that YOU want to be a murderer makes me suspect of what? Missing a house payment?
On a side note my house is fine. I have not missed a payment in years. I actually have been working double time at the gym and have a stored up a savings account that is growing every day. Both of my kids have scored the highest grades in their class. Everything is going great in the Karabin world! Just because I read a lot of spiritual books and go to church does not mean that Handjam Belay has to. Enjoy life!
Marty
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Aug 31, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
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Thanks for the Suzuki story, it was a good read.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2011 - 10:35am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2011 - 11:17am PT
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Hank, per your request.
I broke my right leg femur bone in seven places at the hip back in Summer 2009, in the beautiful Little Cottonwood Canyon Utah the day after the Outdoor Retailers Show. This was my 45th birthday present. The break happened on a very easy boulder problem which was no taller than 7 feet off of the ground and required basically one move. The boulder problem is named "Double Dyno." Somehow my hands slipped off of the second hold and my right heel got caught on the starting hold flipping me upside down resulting in the femur break. I had three spotters, one triple Mad Pad and fell into a leaf pile and this was the result.
For the complete accident story go to Mountainproject.com and look into forum "Marty Karabin Accident." I wrote the story in case any other climbers experience a femur break and they can use me as a guide on the healing process. I was basically back onto my feet in six months but the hardware within me was starting to complicate my walking and climbing so I went into a second surgery January 2011 and had the hardware removed. Three screws still remain within the bone but the bar has been removed. Maybe I will make a nut tool out of it someday. A great amount of climbers helped me with my recovery which I am very thankful for. I have the ability of taking a 20' highball bouldering fall once again, but mostly I enjoy climbing with a rope.
Good times, good memories for sure!
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Hi Marty, Those knife blades are awesome! all of mine have two holes in them. What year did the second hold get introduced?
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Here is the start of my Dolt collection. Nothing terribly unique in here except the T Chock. This piece was found in a hunting shed in Alaska about two years ago. It was abandoned with several ice screws, and then sold on Ebay. The piece looks like it was placed only once as a piton. It has a few strike marks as if hit with a hammer. True to Dolt fashion not even hammer blows disfigured it. It certainly is one of my favorite pieces.
A few months ago, Marty and I compared his T Chock to mine. The two are very different! Neither of us have ever seen another, so it begs the question, how many were made, and how many variations exist?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2011 - 01:52am PT
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Rockjockrob, Your Dolt Teechock is quite impressive. I love it! I like how it is slightly angled on all of the sides where the Summit Magazine advertisement looks more like it has a square top and flat bottom. The MK museum Teechock is definitely angled with larger sling holes. Your overall Dolt display gets bigger every week. Where is this Dolt "gold mine" that you have found? I have my shovel ready!
I wonder if my Gruvychock shown is really called a Lopchock? Hmmm…
It is different than the one shown in the Summit ad photo.
For your Chouinard Knifeblade question: When did the second hole get added?
The 1960 Dolt catalog shows a photo of a Knifeblade where the eye housing is perfectly square. Sometime in 1961-1964 a tail of metal was added to the hitting end of the Knifeblade to better protect the eye from hammer blows, but yet the eye housing still had its square shape. As shown in the MK set above, a few posts before this one. In 1965 the Knifeblade took on its new shape where the eye housing rounded following the shape of the carabiner hole. In 1972 a second hole was added on the blade of the Knifeblade but was primarily added to lighten the piton. So to answer your question…..1972.
Rock on!
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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Man, this thing has turned into a really cool thread! Post on!
I might not have much to contribute, but am a fascinated lurker...
TC
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The Climber Neo
Boulder climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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A nut tool would be sweet! But with pre drilled holes maybe making a piton or RURP out of part of it would be possible too.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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My vote for the most enthrallingly bizarre thread of the year.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2011 - 02:42am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2011 - 02:43am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2011 - 02:44am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2011 - 02:46am PT
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Thanks Evolv for taking care of me all of these years!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2011 - 03:07am PT
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Well if Gerald Ford was allowed to go across the Arch, then I should be able to also! For many years I got the opportunity to explore Mackinaw Island in northern Michigan. I was told by many Scout leaders to "leave the Arch alone" and absolutely nobody was allowed to go across it. Of course I grew up with many daredevil friends where we had a daredevils club in our neighborhood, and they all were in my Boy Scout troop as well.
One of the greatest things that my dad did in my life was to put me into Boy Scouts. I should say, forced me into Boy Scouts since I really did not want anything to do with it. I just wanted to stay home and create art projects. But there I was every Wednesday night standing in a uniform that required me to wear tall olive colored socks that had red tassels hanging from the top of them. I also wore a red barrette and did a lot of marching practice. I was in troop 116 of Farmington Michigan. I say "of" Farmington since our meetings were held in West Bloomfield Michigan at my old Elementary school named Eagle Elementary. After the marching drills, we got to play basketball or at times floor hockey with a plastic puck for around a half hour, and then it was working on merit badges for the rest of the meeting. After I got used to it, being in Scouts became just a Wednesday thing. Our Scout troop did a lot of camping and canoe trips that were really fun. I am amazed to this day that none of the Scouts ended up missing arms, legs or fingers from all of the things we did while we were away from the Scout leaders and parents. But I will leave that for another story.
Our main campout was not really a camping experience, but was a trip to Mackinaw Island where we stayed in a barracks for a week. Mackinaw Island is located in the straights of Michigan which separates Northern Michigan (Upper Peninsula) from the rest of Michigan. Basically sits on top of the Michigan "Glove." Eleven Scout troops every year were selected to be honor guards for Fort Mackinac, which is a historic military Fort located on the Island established in 1780. The Fort was created to prevent the British ships from attacking central America. Basically we were guides assisting tourists around the historical Fort. Many times it was not assisting, more like standing in one position for a few hours keeping tourists from going into the employee only areas. Nevertheless it was a great experience! Every hour there was musket firing demonstrations, cannons being fired, and re-creations of historic events where everybody was in original American and British military uniforms.
Our Scout troop was selected every year due to the gross amount of fertilizer, garbage bags, and light bulbs we sold during our rallies. Kind of like the Girl Scout cookie rally, but more "manly" items being sold. Our troop was selected for the last 22 years to be honor scouts on the Island. This also was a week where the parents stayed home and partied since the kids were out of town. On the Island the Scouts duties were divided into three positions. Kitchen Patrol, Morning Tourist Service, or Afternoon Tourist Service. The in between time when the Scouts were off duty was play and explore time. The shifts changed every day and my favorite was Morning duty. The greatest thing about Mackinaw Island was that all travel was done by walking, bicycling, or by horseback. No vehicles were allowed on the island. Just after lunch us Scouts hopped onto bicycles and either went into town to eat massive amounts of fudge, or went exploring the many limestone attractions that were on the island. Since I was considered one of the daredevils, I hung out with some of the older Scouts who always pushed for a greater adventure.
We liked exploring Arch Rock, which is a pretty good size chunk of limestone with a giant hole through it. Our tour pamphlet showed a photo of President Gerald Ford when he was a Boy Scout sitting on the arch with friends. The Arch looked pretty thin to me and could not support much weight, besides the 50' drop to the ground, and then another 100' steep hillside tumble into Lake Huron. We hiked up and down the Arch formation, but never across it. Of course all of the older Scouts insisted that we go across it or we would be considered babies. I noticed that the Arch looked a lot thinner now than the 1929 Gerald Ford photo showed. Besides the older Scouts were not crossing it themselves. Then we were off to another formation called Sugarloaf. Sugarloaf is a cool spire that is located higher up on the island and stands around 75 feet tall. There is a cave that goes through the bottom portion of Sugarloaf from one side to the other, but you have to be careful since many Scouts in the past have got stuck within the cave, and needed a rescue to get back out. I of course knew the secret before I was dared to go through it. It still required a friend to help twist your body limbs to get through one very tight section of the cave. What sucked about Sugarloaf is when my daredevil friends forced me to climb to the top.
The climbing face started from the high side of the cave, and went up a simple scramble on ledges, but then stopped most people at a 5.5 sheer face section to reach the final moves to the top. So looking down being 60' above the ground, with no rope, in loose tennis shoes, on a sheer face was quite scary. But I was dared and did not want to be called a baby all of my life. I was probably 14 years old at the time. A few of my friends made it to the top as I contemplated the face for many minutes. And then many more minutes, and then many more minutes. I knew it was going to be bad if I backed out, so I went for it and was super proud of myself for my achievement. But then it dawned on me and all of my friends, that the only way back down was the way we came up. This became even scarier as the toughest daredevil in the group was first to attempt the down climb, and we all noticed the tears that started running out of his eyes while he was stuck in the hardest down climb move. I at that time started chanting my prayers and wanted my mommy really bad. I was second to go down and I was gripped so hard that my hands and wrists were cramping big time. I did not want to die on Sugarloaf, but felt like this was truly the end of my life. We all made it back to the ground, looked at each other in silence, and then hopped back onto our bicycles where we screamed and laughed all the way back to the Scout barracks. We were all heros!
Sugarloaf was my first rock climb and was a very memorable experience, but I still had one more challenge to accomplish. The following year I was back with the Scouts on Mackinaw Island, and yes I was unfortunately still part of the daredevil club. Once again we looked at the Arch and scrambled around it, and then I found myself on top of Sugarloaf again. This time I was more familiar with the climbing moves since they were deeply imprinted in my mind from the first climbing experience. Plus I had a full year to ponder bad nightmare sanarios of results that did not happen on that first climb, but could have. We scrambled and climbed on other Island formations like Skull Cave, where the indians used to bury their dead, and played on other rocks near the cold lake shore. Most of the time we hung out in town eating fudge, checked out the Grand Hotel, played frisbee in Marquette park, or hung out on the docks trying to hitch boat rides on the many beautiful million dollar yachts that were anchored there. But with all of the attractions to be seen, the emptiness of the final challenge had to be filled.
On the last day of our week we had Morning Duty again, and found ourselves free from work for a few hours. There was nothing else on our minds but to go back to Arch Rock. At that time there were no signs but a short fence keeping tourists away from the edge. Looking at the Arch from the top it looks like it is a little wider than two horses backs. The distance to cross was not that far, but if the arch broke it was sudden death, or if you fell off it was sudden death as well. Also looking down was the view of 150 feet or so. The Arch looked crumbly and had a few plants growing out of it, but the crossing had to be done. My two friends Pete and Richard were much more daring, of course stopping in the middle to jump up and down to show how solid the Arch was. I slowly crawled across being careful of every move and was quite proud of my accomplishment. That was enough excitement for me! Pete was so full of adrenalin that he went down into the hole of the Arch, and free solo climbed the 40' wall just left of the arch. So there, take that Gerald Ford!
I stayed on Mackinaw Island for one week each of seven years, and it was an incredible experience in my life. One of the older Scouts spent the whole summer on the Island as an actor who fired the muskets in the demonstrations. We got to hang out with him as he showed us the ins and outs of the entire Fort Mackinac. We got an opportunity to fire a few muskets and got to fire one of the main cannons. Every morning and night the Scouts raised and lowered a few dozen flags around the Island, and one was a 15' x 20' American flag that took a bunch of us to fold. The last night of our week we had a ceremonial camp fire, and reflected upon memories of our personal experiences on the Island, under the amazing Northern Michigan night sky.
As a senior Scout I really enjoyed being in Boy Scouts and became an Eagle Scout in 1981. A year later I turned 18 and became a Explorer Scout for one year. Explorer Scouts taught me a wealth of knowledge of how to survive in the wilderness. It also gave me knowledge of how to touch Natures Spirit, which is a feeling that I hope everybody experiences sometime in their life.
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Hi Marty, I just thought I would share this climbing tie I found. It was a hit at work. Though me just wearing a tie was enough to cause comment:)
Climb on!
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The Climber Neo
Boulder climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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Sep 11, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
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now that's a tie! wonder if anyone has ever printed directions on "how to tie a tie" on the back of one, for those rock jocks who are better at tying knots.....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Sep 18, 2011 - 03:25am PT
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Bump! for climbing history!
Thanks for all the awesome stories and pictures Marty!
Mike
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2011 - 05:53am PT
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For the last few months I have been busy creating a display of cams for the museum space at the AZ Hiking Shack. 17 display boards total.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2011 - 05:54am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2011 - 05:55am PT
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Rock On!
Happy Turkey Day! Marty
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Nov 24, 2011 - 11:42am PT
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Marty:
WOW!
Nice job-----looks perfectly "Camalicious!"
A delightful repast for Thanksgiving Day.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Nov 24, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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Bravo Marty, bravissimo!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
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Photo of Nicholas Karabin in front of the Cam Devices Display
at the AZ Hiking Shack. Seeing the whole display in one view is pretty cool!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I really enjoyed the little exibit @ devils tower. I feel that random gear is not that big a deal. Specific gear with a story behind it is a big deal. Warren Hardings hammer, bat tent and empty wine jugs combined with photos and the backstory. that sells! a bunch of old random gear. not so much.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
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tradmanclimbs - your supertopo name reflects your love for crack climbing, but yet your comment of seeing over 200 different cams in one place at one time does not interest you? I have a story for each piece of gear shown but no room to display the "backstory."
In todays world the internet is doing an awesome job of piecing together old historical data, photos and facts of everything. The backstory is actually easy to obtain these days, where collecting climbing gear has skyrocketed and there are not as many vintage pieces surfacing.
Your interest seems to be with Warren Harding. I got the opportunity to meet Warren and shake his hand a year before he died. For him he looked at me like "whatever," to me I looked at him like "wow."
I was able to obtain a few Harding items like the BAT Hammock.
BAT one piece Harness circa 1971. Warren gave this harness to John Middendorf as a gift, then John donated it to the Karabin Museum. Warren claimed that he created the first one piece harness. To me personally it looks like a butt bag where butt bags were first used earlier in the 1960s.
A few vintage hangers. The left is the original King Swing hanger used from the top of Boot Flake on the Nose Route placed by Warren. The middle hanger is a DOLDT hanger used on the FA of the Nose. The right hanger is from the top of the Lost Arrow Spire placed by John Salathe in the late 1940s.
I have a few more BAT items, BAT tshirt, etc… they are in the display at the Phoenix Rock Gym in Tempe.
Rock on! Marty
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2011 - 03:46pm PT
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Summit Magazine November 1959
Happy Holidays!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Congrats on finding a place to display your cams, and on filling it so nicely.
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RolonRolon
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 11:18am PT
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awesome collection Marty! Hopefully I'll make it out to see them in person but till then, thanks for putting up the pictures.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Dec 30, 2011 - 09:58am PT
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Marty, That is so much work! Thanks for sharing. It is obvious how much you love it. You are a great resource. Can't wait to see it in person. I can't tell you how happy I am that you helping to preserve our history. So much of that stuff is irreplaceable. Thanks for keeping it safe and preserving it for us to see.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 30, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
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Best wishes and success Marty!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 15, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
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Bump.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 15, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
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Bump for Marty & his incredible, but organized, collecton!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Dec 15, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
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Marty, why did you stop? Two years?
Hey, do you have any cool gear or hardware from Australia to show? Like some funky carrot bolts or other anchors, portable hangers, etc?
Anyway-bump
Arne
Edit-By the way, I hope things are going well for you and have a Merry Christmas.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2014 - 08:49am PT
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Answering the question: So why so many years in between?
For the last ten years life has totally kicked my ass. No matter how many times I got back up, and firmly on my feet, I was once again smacked to the ground. Divorce, bankruptcy, broken leg, climbing store closed, tax problems, bill collectors, lawyers, all while working full time and raising two kids. So while all of these challenging things were trying to crush my world, I was somehow being directed to a different world which kept my curiosity.
Once I moved out of the parents house at age 18, that was it for religion and church and spirituality for me. I still respected church to the fullest, visiting on Easter and Christmas, but now Nature was my church and Nature was my religion and Nature is my comfortable escape from the pressures of life.
Eventually I got married, was then home husband raising two baby boys, and then divorce came along. This is where my story starts getting interesting. As the divorce started, my family doctor prescribed to me a drug to help me sleep. Instead of sleeping the drug was periodically stopping my heart and restarting it 20 seconds later. Even though the doctors told me to keep taking the drug, I stopped taking the drug after two weeks and it almost was not soon enough. I passed out at home and was out for over two hours. I first saw lightning bolt type lights on the ceiling of the room, and then I found myself at heavens gate where a human figure slid over to me, exclaimed laughingly that I was not supposed to be there, and gave me a message to remember. He said "The energy is within, you just need to bring it out." It was the classic dark hallway with doorway at the end with intense light coming through the doorway scene. The next day I went to the doctors office, passed out there and woke up with monitors attached to me in the hospital. The drug is named Remeron and this was in July 2001. I thought about the heavens gate vision for a while. It was like the realest dream I have ever had and I couldn't stop thinking about it. Eventually I concluded that it was totally silly and wrote the heavens gate thing off as a dream.
January 2004 I was on top of Pinnacle Peak in charge of running 35 boy scouts and family members through a climbing adventure. Climb to top, tyroleon traverse between pinnacles, rappel to ground. Basic horse and pony show! During the afternoon I was approached by a couple named Glenn and Lisa, who hiked to the base of the climb and asked if they could join in with the fun. I told them to grab a harness and follow the line of kids to the top. Glenn and Lisa loved the climb and hired me for the next day for climbing, and to show them around the mountain. That day they had just moved into a house near the base of Pinnacle Peak.
The following day the three of us were excited to climb and got onto the mountain early. I had a full day planned of showing my tourists the best climbs the mountain had to offer, but after the first climb, Glenn and Lisa said they were done and just wanted to talk. I was like, "thats weird" since it was only 9:30 in the morning, but they hired me for the day so we found a nice spot to have an early lunch over by "Y"Crack Boulder. Lisa remained quiet as Glenn kept asking me "How do you feel?" over and over, "How do you feel?" At first I thought this guy is weird or something but at the same time he had my full attention. Glenn started explaining that he is a Spiritual Guide and he is excited to have found me. Very excited! At this point I was getting uncomfortable since this was going outside of my "nature church comfort zone." Glenn then stated "Marty, you have been contacted." I remained cautioned, quiet, but still murmured "what do you mean?" Glenn leaned over to me with a proud smile and said "Marty, you have been contacted." "You were told, The energy is within," "You just need to bring it out."
At this point I stared at him for 20 minutes without a word. How is this possible? Glenn continued talking and told me other things about my past, and knew things that were coming up in my future as well. He confirmed that I have a spirit guide that watches over me which I believe is my fathers dad, Michael (guardian angel). I am still blown away that Glenn repeated the Heavens Gate message. Only myself, friend Robert, and my Xwife knew the message. So now my brain gets confirmation that the Heavens Gate vision was real, sweet! Glenn gave me a copy of his new book "Is anybody Awake out there." which is a interactive workbook which creates balance in life. I continued to climb with Glenn and Lisa a few more times over the next two years and then we lost touch. Glenn's book went onto my bookshelf, and I never opened it. I felt more comfortable in my nature church setting over getting involved in what could be considered truth.
In 2006 I opened a climbing store named "AZ Cliff Hanger." Between the store, full time job, raising kids, girlfriend, etc, life was always busy and I didn't have time to think about spiritual stuff at all. By 2008 I was single again and life was its usual business. But I started feeling like a force was continually challenging me to find something. This feeling was driving me crazy so I moved my nature church basecamp to Blue Ridge Reservoir. I knew that nature had the answer for me and I was going to find it. Blue Ridge is an incredible canyon reservoir with 5 miles of water, limestone boulders, trout fishing, and lots of adventuring. Every weekend my canoe was packed with hammocks, fishing gear and crashpads and I was off to explore the wilderness.
But after 15 months of exploring, I felt like I was no closer to an answer. This unknown force still pestered me to push on. I found myself hiking into absolute exhaustion while I searched for, I think, the definition of happiness. I was seeing that my nature church was not resolving my thoughts and it was leaving me in a very alone place in life. My kids accompanied me on a few of the Blue Ridge outings and on one of the trips my son made it aware to me that I was going to hurt myself. For some reason I started showing off by climbing the boulders without ropes or pads. "How do we get home once you are hurt dad?" was the question from my son. I looked down at the death landing I was above and then realized what he was questioning.
It is a really strange feeling when you reach a point of numbness in life. You can have everything in life but at the same time you feel that you have nothing. At work I asked my friend Justin about this numbness feeling I had and his suggestion was to stop climbing solo. I knew personally something was about to happen. The following week was the Outdoor Retailers Show in Utah July 2009. On the last day of the show I broke my right leg Femur in seven places falling off the start of a boulder problem in Little Cottonwood canyon. Luckily for me I was on flat ground only 50' away from the road.
So ambulance ride to the hospital, surgery the next morning, and then things got interesting. When I was being awakened by the recovery room nurse, I woke up not being in the hospital but being in the center of a huge sphere of eyeball looking objects. I was in a laying position and a spirit made of orange dots/atoms was happily standing watching over me to my left. The recovery room nurse tried many times to wake me but I kept telling him to stop interrupting me while I was with my guardian angel. The orange spirit was talking to me and instructed me to move some of the eye-looking objects to different positions. He said "This is the place where you can change anything about yourself." I reached up and moved three objects to different locations and then gasped and exclaimed that it was too powerful to continue. I suddenly felt all of my energy leaving my body like a sink full of water draining as somebody just pulled the plug out. Instantly I found myself awake in the recovery room, with the recovery nurse, and with fill remembrance of this sphere vision.
I was moved to a two patient room where at the moment I was the only person in the room. At first I investigated my new leg bandages and assessed my situation, then laid back thinking about the eyeball sphere and how totally real it felt. It was so real that I kept hearing the orange spirits voice talking to me, which was coming in loud and clear like the television was on, but it was not. I started asking questions like, "Who am I talking to?" "Is this God?" "Who are you?" Later in the day the recovery room nurse came in to the room and asked me how I was doing. We quickly got onto the guardian angel subject. So I asked the nurse, "you being the person who wakes up patients after surgery for a living, you must experience this stuff all of the time?" The nurse replied, "This was a first for me, you were totally tripping man!"
A scientific look at this would conclude that I was at the time on a lot of drugs, due to femur reconstructive surgery. Maybe my body was shocked in some way. But this does not explain why I am still hearing the orange spirits voice. My main concern in the hospital was if I was going to walk again, so I kept asking the orange spirit, "Will I be able to walk again?" The orange spirit kept answering suggesting for me to purchase a camera and create a movie. At this time I didn't even own a camera and thought that this answer from the spirit world was totally bizarre. But the more I thought about it, the more it enlightened my curiosity. Enlightened it to the point that I started writing movie ideas while in the hospital two days after the accident stating to the hospital staff, "God wants me to make a movie."
After seven days in the Utah hospital, I finally was able to get back home to Arizona. Many friends and family was there to assist my recovery and I told them about the strange spiritual things I witnessed in the hospital. Especially being in "God's Eye" (the sphere), and of course they all looked back at me with a perplexed look on their faces. I slowly grew uneasy about the hospital visions and contacted Glenn. The sphere was showing itself again and again at my house, accompanied with many different peoples voices and it was really freaking me out. Glenn was at my house the next morning and before he even said hello to me he proudly stated aloud, "you have a new guide." My parents got to witness Glenn at work and his ability of "Knowing." Glenn somehow pushed the reset button in me and put me back in the correct direction of my journey. He also brought along another copy of his book and told me to start here to find the Awakening.
Once again I put his book on the shelf and another year went by. Life started falling back into its "same old same old ways," until I purchased a video camera. God said make a movie so…okay. Through the camera I suddenly saw that my kids were teenagers and I had yet to teach them of what I believe life was about. I truthfully did not have an answer myself so my plan was to research Religion and Spirituality, and then to create a guide for my kids which shows what I believe is the truth of life. I believe that the best gift an adult can give its children, is a truthful assessment of what they believe. Not dragging your kids to every religious institution because it is what the adults parents did and so on… Don't hesitate to teach your kids what you believe when you did the research to back your answers. If you are teaching without the background research, you are sending your kids out in the world being blind. In some cases it is interesting that kids that have been dragged to church, know more about the church fabric than the parents do. While creating the movies, I started reading Glenn's book.
So my movie subject was rock climbing and I centered on the youth climbing team at the Phoenix Rock Gym. The team was first named Team Thrashers which was later changed to the Rock Phenoms. I produced many movies but my main two movies were "Living the Dream", and "Phenom Style." These movies cover the lives of the climbing team kids and their journey leading to the USA Climbing Nationals. Due to using regular music from the radio and avoiding lawsuits, I didn't share movies on YouTube, etc. The movies were a gift to all who were involved with the climbing teams. At the end of the Living the Dream movie, I wrote "Thank you God for giving me the ability to produce this awesome movie!" I was really proud to accomplish this challenge presented to me from the spirit world.
My orange spirit world friend I named "teacher" and over time I became aware that he is not God or a saint, but was a person who lived on Earth in the past. Teacher during the night was taking me through a door to a classroom where I was learning a subject called "Word School." After 6 months of that subject I was then put into "Deception Class" and was told this class will continue through the rest of my life. I thought it was really cool that I could go through this doorway myself without my teacher and visit other places. When I was young around 7 years old, I found a doorway that went to a land which was surrounded by a massive stone wall. On the right corner end of this wall (which I perceive is South/East) is a massive arched doorway with closed Oak doors on big hinges. As a kid I tried climbing the wall to see inside but the wall expanded upward as I climbed it. The further I climbed, the higher the wall grew. I never was able to see inside. Now as I go through the spiritual doorway, I returned to this Oak Door and it is not there. I even have inspected the sides of the arched entrance, and there are no signs that hinges were ever there. Inside is an expansive colorful meadow. It is visually incredible and limitless and it stimulates the senses giving one the feeling of swimming in Grace. In the far distance are streams and mountains. Other people have told me their experiences with this same meadow. I believe this meadow is named or is in Summerland located somewhere at the top of the Astral Plateau.
So all through 2010-2013 I was researching Spirituality like I was cramming for college finals. My want to know truth was reaching a point of insanity. In June 2012 my body became really sick from all of the study and the in-and-out of the spirit world visits. I lost a lot of weight, skin turning gray, kids looking at me strange, that kind of stuff. I was instructed to go to a person named Dawn for help where she became my new mentor. Dawn sent me to a Shaman named John who basically told me that I am a blonde dumb ass. Walking through doorways without protection letting every entity take a stab at me. John closed all of my doors, removed an entity, put protection onto me, and sent me back to Dawn. Wow, what an experience! I always knew Dawn as the mom of one of the kids on the climbing team, but by strange coincidence, she is a Lives-Between-Lives Hypnotherapist.
At this point in life I have a million questions and one to ask Dawn about the spirit world, so I chose just the one. What is the Gods Eye sphere? She didn't know but she knew where to start, which was in "the chair." She was so interested in my story that I was not charged for her time, and I am very grateful. My orange spirit came forward and told me his name is Harold, a famous silent film producer from the 1920s. This probably explains why with Harold's help, my movie creation was very easy. With Dawn as my GPS and Harold as my guide on the spirit world plateau, I was able to reach the sphere again within a few sessions, and this time I took measurements and brought back with me all of the info that I could.
By May 2013 I finally had the info I was looking for to create the guides for my kids on what I believe life is about. It is their choice to believe or not believe the information I wrote. Somehow I know that it will be useful in their future because the existence of the guides themselves, shows the kids that dad found it important in his life to look into the spirituality question. Once I had these guides completed my life suddenly became calm. Harold says I have reached a place called the "Blessing." To me I feel very satisfied with my surroundings, and life is great!
The reason I am sharing my story is that I am tired of carrying it around. Many of my friends already know it and have helped me by sharing their thoughts and experiences. By sharing my story I have nothing to gain with it except removing weight off of my back. I also see I have nothing to lose since it is truth.
Below is the drawing I made August 2009 just after the Utah hospital visit. Below that is a photo I found in May 2013 shown in the last 9 minutes on a Netflix Documentary named "DMT the spirit molecule." The Netflix documentary just proves to me that somebody else has also been in this sphere. I believe everybody has their own sphere. It is the library whole which creates the souls individual character, retains your present Earth settings/intentions, holds the entire history of the many yous that you have been.
To the many helpers I have and have met on this journey, MANY BLESSINGS, THANK YOU !!!
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fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jun 14, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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Interesting story about the visions and what not
You should know there is a lot of weird stuff that can happen to you when you're in pain or on drugs for pain or perhaps close to punching your ticket out of here
Some believe it's spiritual, others biochemistry of a brain trying to protect the body
This distinction is kind of the core of the debate on whether there is more than what's visible here and now
There's a lot of interesting reading to be done about NDE and DMT
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overwatch
climber
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Jun 14, 2014 - 10:24am PT
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Maybe it is spiritual and biochemical...wonderfully fascinating story
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Jun 14, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
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Wow Marty, you've come a million miles since the last time we corresponded. I'm glad things are clearer for you now. I'm also sure this is not the end of your journey. Hang on for future happenings!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
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In the last five years I have witnessed so many bizarre spiritual things that now I just live within it. Since I was allowed back into the Meadow, I spent four years pacing and philosophizing under the Tree of Knowledge, asking for life's meaning. The answer is - go beyond the Believing stage, and place your Passion within the Knowing stage. Soon after the Passion/Knowing creates Vision. The lesser your ego, the greater the Vision.
Jan, Thanks for the energy! My mentor Dawn has taught me how to reconnect with Mother Nature and happily get my hands and clothes dirty. Harold also suggested to purchase a drum and now I am a drummer for a Grandfather sweat lodge in Mesa. What better blessings than being involved! Next weekend will be my 7th Lodge I have attended.
Somewhere I have read, "The miracle is not learning to levitate or to walk on the water, but to live happily on this Earth.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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I have been working on a new display for the Karabin Museum at the AZ Hiking Shack, to replace the present display of camming devices. So if you have not seen the cam display it will be changing in the next few months so don't miss out! The new display is a historical look at Chouinard products. I started another Supertopo thread named "Chouinard Gear Mystery Questions" which is loaded with cool Chouinard stuff. The lineup of Chouinard catalogs below is listed on the Chouinard Gear thread as well so I didn't want to be necessarily redundant, but I thought it would be a great lead-in to the following post, which is most of the Black Diamond catalogs. Enjoy!
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Chouinard catalogs
March 1960 Dolt catalog shows Chouinard carabiners, pitons, and RURP.
Chouinard goes into the Army winter 1962 - July 1964. I wonder if somebody was still selling his pitons while he was in the Army? This is probably why there is no Chouinard catalogs previous to 1964. The January 31, 1977 New Yorker Profile story on Chouinard states that in 1964 Chouinard went back into creating climbing gear immediately and created a one page price list flyer for the climbing stores. At the bottom it was written "Don't expect a speedy delivery in the months of May, June, July, August and September." Because those were the climbing months.
Identifying the 1960s Chouinard catalogs has been quite a challenge. I know that there are a few more Chouinard catalogs that need to surface which will straighten out the year date confusion.
The 1972 catalog remained the same through the year 1974. Only the price list in the back of the catalogs changed. I believe that there are four different price lists per year, and three years of this catalog. So possibly 12 different price lists.
Inside the 1974 Winter newsletter was Hexcentric templates where a person who has Chouinard Hexcentrics can drill their own lightening holes. What is interesting is that Chouinard did not offer Hexcentrics with predrilled lightening holes until 1976, but offered the templates in 1974 to do the work yourself.
The 1975, 1976 and 1977 Chouinard catalog covers remained the same but some of the pages changed. To identify the 1975 catalog the Hexcentics in the catalog photo should have solid sides. The 1976 catalog shows the Hexcentrics with lightening holes. The 1977 catalog has 1977 Featherlight Carabiner in the "Firsts list" I believe also that the 1975, 1976, and 1977 catalogs had two different price lists each, spring and fall.
The 1978 catalog has two versions spring and fall. The spring shows wood piolets and the fall shows carbon glass piolets.
I am still looking for a better copy of 1979. Not sure if had spring and fall versions.
Chouinard becomes Black Diamond late 1989.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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Black Diamond catalogs
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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Awesome story about your journey and the movies Marty - thank you so much! What a wonderful world we live in!
Loved the 'you're a dumbshit blond' part - we've all been there(even us brownies ;). I remember one time someone looking at me and saying 'I don't know how to tell you this Erik, but I think you're only halfway down the hill you're falling down.' Hahaha, that'll get your attention like a rattler!
Thanks for your stoke bro!
e
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
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Outdoor Retailers Show, summer 2014
I was able to attend the Outdoor Retailers show in Utah last week and it was totally awesome! I missed two years of the show so it was nice catching up with the manufacturers and superstar climbers, and to check out the new products for 2015. Also I was promoting the major Phoenix Rock Gym comp, the Thrash & Dangle Fest scheduled for April 18, 2015. I brought along my crew which as usual is Neo (Nick Oxentenko) and Robert (Olson Climbing Collection), and also Sofia Long our sweet 16 super climber from team Rock Phenoms, to show her the climbing paparazzi world. “Business Fun!” Also with us was Aldrin Gotianun and his magic ukuleles. The photos below are from Aldrin, Sofia, Marty, Neo and Robert.
My first shout out goes to Joe Garland and the ClimbX crew for being my base camp for the show. Sometimes, (always….cough), the manufacturers pile on the schwag for the museum and I have nowhere to store it until it is hauled to the hotel at the end of the day. Everybody at the show to me is one happy family so being sponsored with one company and storing your belongings with another is perfectly acceptable. There is not much storage area in these booths. Joe’s generosity for the museum has been huge through the years. The big attraction at the ClimbX booth was Aldrin’s BugsGear Ukuleles and I saw people carrying and strumming these things all over the show. Brilliant marketing tool using sound to create curiosity toward the manufacture label. Throughout this show at beer thirty many booths had live bands playing, it was really cool. Osprey as well had soldier dudes on stilts dancing around their booth with carnival music playing to create attention. I must say it was totally weird but really held my attention.
The show was definitely set up for business this year with all of the manufacturers being in their booths and no common play area. In the past, Rock & Ice Magazine and Climbing magazine traded off being the central information booth and director of the games. Walltopia used to have a wall within the climbing mfg booths where shoe demos, feats of strength comps, and other promo curiosities were performed. Carabiner toss comps, shoe toss, lip goo toss, Petzl rodeo clip comp, ice axe pull-up comp, speed traversing, running with ropes, fastest tie in, pull ups, pull up one arm hangs, ice climbing on the EP wall, screamer rip demos, slack line demos and comps, and so many other fun things that are now just a dream. Aaaaaaaa, these comps were so much fun! I still hold the fastest figure eight tie in at 7 seconds, and with a perfect 12 inch tail.
So for the first day it was just Sofia and I so we had full reign of the show until Neo and Robert showed up for day two. Sofia scored a sponsorship with Rock On, a sponsorship with Sam Krieg where she picked the fabric of her chalk bag and it was sewn for her at the show. Sam always has cool fabrics to choose from. And once again I scored another zebra chalk bag, Thanks Sam! I have 6 of them now since they are indestructible and never wear out, but I appreciate his generosity.
Over at the Mad Rock booth was Obe Carrion and he designed a new shoe for Mad Rock called Redline. Sofia applied for a sponsorship while I found a new bouldering climbing brush for the museum. Some of these boar hair brushes retail for 7.00 each.
Many new products were shown at the DMM booth, and one of them - Neo, Robert and I agree that this device was the most interesting item shown at this summer show. Belay device called the Grip. Super cool and I want one! It was good to see Lisa and Steve again. Stefan Glowacz was also in the DMM booth for Red Chili products, but I forgot to bring my Glowacz trading card from home to be signed. I still got his signature anyways and the following day Robert showed up proudly with his Glowacz card to be signed. But Stefan left on the plane that morning so both of us still have unsigned cards. The hunt continues!
In the hallway we ran into Dean Potter and his dog Whisper. Dean gave out signatures and dog paw prints at the Ruff Wear booth which I missed, so I still had to have that Whisper paw print signature…….and oh yeah Deans signature too. Dean says I missed the session so this was a no count, but I scored the paw print anyways. Thanks Dean for the fun!
The first day of the show was totally awesome! And to top that off we were invited to the Petzl party at their new Petzl corporate facility in Salt Lake City. This building is awesome! it has a sweet indoor 50’ tall Walltopia wall, and on the backside of the wall is training rigging and rap stations at all different heights. Timmy O’Neil hosted a soft catch competition and a friendly dyno competition on the wall for fun while the crowd enjoyed the awesome buffet food service. Upstairs we picked up a Petzl poster and 12 climbing pros were sitting at tables giving signatures. On the poster is 28 pro climbers which by the end of the trade show I got 23 signed. Later in the evening the owner of Petzl gave a speech honoring the new facility. Thanks Petzl for the incredible party and for showing us your world!
Neo arrives for day two as we wait for Roberts arrival later in the day. Neo first stocks up on Pancake mix, then goes after the big prizes.
The So-Ill booth is always a big attraction at the show. I feel proud to be one of the brothers, grandpa division. So-Ill was showing the new holds designed by Jason Kehl which were really cool. I scored the largest hold for my collection, and many other So-Ill fun trinkets. They have mini hang boards which are dog chew toys. They also have new 1st 2nd 3rd place prize trophies for competitions. I really want the blow-up hang board they have on their booth for my museum. Thanks So-Ill! Love you guys!
Rock Exotica always has cool climbing equipment and they brought along their “progressions” which show how they machine their products.
Fixe Hardware has reworked the Alien camming units and a newer lighter version is available. I mean really lighter! It was nice seeing Kevin Daniels again and catching up on his latest expeditions.
Black Diamond came through for me with the 2015 catalogs! Yeah! Unfortunately they only had BD decal stickers this year. Black Diamond over the years has created many fun silly climbing stickers. BD also creates amazing products so don’t get me wrong. You know they make great products so you can imagine how great the stickers are too. In the BD booth I ran into Cedar Wright.
Out in the pavilions I came across Hans Florine, the fastest man on stone! Luckily for me and Robert, I brought along two Hans Florine trading cards to be signed. I usually can’t contain Hans for long, he’s always on the move. But I still get a few signatures and a hug, and off he goes!
Omega Pacific over the years has let Robert and I show museum artifacts at the shows in their booth. We talked to Michael Lane and we are set for display space for the summer 2015 show. Super exciting! we just have to come up with a theme and put the display together. Thanks Omega Pacific!
The four year search has come to an end. I almost fell over when I saw that Sean McColl was at the show and I have his trading card I wanted to get signed. In the collectors world this is a major accomplishment. I almost have the full set of the Petzl trading cards signed. Sean also signed a poster for the rock gym. Yesss!
KIND bar rallied us in for this photo. We got the free tshirt and a handful of KIND bars. Last Thrash & Dangle comp KIND bar showed up with a booth and gave out hundreds of samples. KIND bar rocks!
I scored a slat-wall shoe holder from Boreal. Thanks Jesus! This may seem like a strange item for a museum, but I have a dozen or so different ones so far. A few years back Jesus hooked me up with both of the Boreal shoe keychains, right and left shoe. In the past my favorite shoe was the Boreal Ballet. I had a pair of Ballets that were resoled 13 times and still performed!
John Long was over at the Adidas booth so Robert and I slipped in for a signature. John as usual gives me a grumpy sigh, signs the photo, arrogantly jams it back into my hand and walks away. I do not understand why John gets offended when people ask for his signature. “What is Mind?” - the “knowing” that in some peoples eyes you are a hero, but in others you are not…..and it is the balance between these two that is of the spirit.
Evolv was launching their new climbing shoe the Luchador so they created their marketing around the Luchador. In their booth was Mexican wrestling masks and Luchador everything. Super cool! We got a few posters signed and pictures with the climbing pros and then I was loaded up with evolv schwag. They called it evolv heaven for being a team athlete. Thanks evolv!…..(tears). I was also given the news that Chris Sharma was now part owner of evolv. Wow! So now technically I could say that Chris sponsors me…..cool! I talked to Chris and got a few more of his photos signed! Team evolv rules!
Beer thirty! Super cool, another La Sportiva beer bottle! Items like this may seem like trash but in the collecting world, this is future gold! 99% of the bottles get recycled or are trashed so only a few survive. Robert was sure to get one for his collection as well.
I ran into Louie Anderson and chatted with him for a while. I actually had with me a picture for him to sign. Sweet! Louie has climbed a lot of hard routes in AZ.
Steven Jefferies is totally awesome. I love his hair. Straight out of the movie, “the Shining.” He holds a chalk bag for my museum which describes him perfectly. He was one of the course setters for the PsicoBloc competition which was that evening, and told me he could bring me in the comp at the base of the wall. I decided to enjoy the comp with my crew instead because I would be more mobile with a better vantage point. So I volunteered my services for PsicoBloc 2015.
At the show was Brittney Griffith and Lisa Hathaway. Brittney is super strong but shy and very talented at disappearing away from paparazzi crews. This year she was stuck at a table and I landed a Griffith signature! Yes! Lisa has no problem signing pictures for me, and always returns the love!
I have reconnected with my old sponsor Patagonia, and they upped the sponsorship from just lip goo, to lip goo - pen - and card holder! See how it works. You stick with the dream, and it comes true!
Now this is a great signature! Perfectly centered with smooth lines. Kurt of course denies wearing tights but I love to see him smile. Thanks for the fun Kurt!
Bobbi Bensman is my AZ hometown girl. Every time I am at the show I track her down for a hug and signature. This year she surprised me with the hug and a big kiss on the cheek! I told her that I just turned 50 years old, and I am still sending 5.12s. She replied back saying that she too turned 50, but a few days ago she on-sited a 5.13. So there! You are awesome Bobbi!
At every show I say hi to Randy Leavitt. To me Randy is the “Chris Sharma” before Chris was climbing. Randy has donated many cool items to the Karabin museum and Olson Collection. Thanks Randy for your ongoing inspiration and support!
Metolius was giving out bolt hanger stickers in six different colors at their booth. The colors are super vibrant and sweet! Metolius has been making these stickers since the late 1990s. I noticed that the Metolius Curve Hexes are not swedged anymore. The wires attach to a soldered rivet, thing. Jim Karn is one of the Metolius reps and used to be (and still is) a bad ass climber!
I saw many other people at the show including Goose at Misty Mountain Threadworks, Scott Newell at Blue Water…you are awesome, the Nicros crew, the Asana crew, Vibram’s brunch, thanks Five Ten for your raffles, Petzl raffle, Gear for Good, Kingdom holds, etc. The show is huge so I didn’t have time to get to every booth but my most desired item I want is the DMM Grip. My second coolest item at the show I saw is from Camp. Camp is celebrating their 125th anniversary and created a keychain set of five of climbing gear, and one is a skier. I asked if I could get the set for my museum and they said that they only give one per person. Okay so I played it their way. So every time a different Camp rep was at the desk, I got another keychain, and so on and so on until I had all five. This is what they meant by one per person, correct? For beer cups I vote the blue Granite Gear cup the best, but Robert is the beer glass master so we will see what he says.
My third coolest item which I got at the show is the AustriAlpin 50/50 locking carabiner. The gate opens at both ends of the carabiner body. Besides its usefulness, I have noticed that it is hard to set it down because it is fun to play with as a coffee table toy. One handed operation to open both sides of the gate, and works very smooth. I give a huge THANKS to AustriAlpin for donating half of their booth to the Karabin Museum. I specialize in bolt hangers and equipment and this totally fulfills my wish list! And as I walked away they called me back to take home their 16’ banner. Wow, and Awesome!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
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PsicoBloc August 8, 2014
Deep-water soloing (DWS), also know as Psicobloc, is where water at the base of a climb protects the climber from injury in case of a fall. This comp was amazing! Totally awesome show! The climbing wall is in the Utah Olympic Park and is built over the landing pool for the down hill skiers practicing their flips. Food vendors, Climbing manufacturers showing their goods, climbing stars signing posters, raffles, drinks and more. Fun stuff! 2014 PsicoBloc schwag:
The routes look easy with big holds, but the wall is quite steep and the climber is risking a 50’ fall, yipe! Two climbers race to the top and the fastest climber continues to the next heat. I heard that if you down climb the back of the wall instead of jumping in the water you are disqualified. Many climbers that lost the race but still made it to the top down climbed the back of the wall. Some down climbed the route partially then let go falling in the water.
The routes were changed for the male climbers and during that time the skiers came in and amazed the crowd with their tricks, then landed in the pool. It was totally awesome! In the photo below the spot to the right of the wall is a skier coming in for a landing. The male climbers are up next as they prepare in the hot tub.
In the center of the roof the men had to dyno to a hold then continue. Most of the guys made it to the top and then jumped in the water. Looking at the routes up close they looked like fun 5.12 routes with gravity continuously working against you. For the guys they changed a few holds to bring it more into mid 5.13 range.
When the comp was over we finagled a few Gold passes and joined the party with the climbing stars. I got a few more signatures on the Petzl poster and many hugs. My hat is off to the organizers of this comp. Great show! Can’t wait till PsicoBloc 2015
Thats it for the show! On day four we gathered what items we reserved at each booth and creatively packed the heavy items into Sofia and her dads vehicle. Still on the plane, Neo Robert and I had 6 loaded bags, two brief cases and two crash pads to get back to AZ. I call this the “struggle of the reward.” Who cares how much you have and how tired you are, your bringing that schwag home!
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 17, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
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Marty
You have everything.
What's missing?
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The Climber Neo
Boulder climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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Aug 18, 2014 - 07:02am PT
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Such a wonderful review of the show Marty!!
It was SO AWESOME and can't wait till next show,
always my favorite time of year, seeing the
familiar faces and exciting new gear!!
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Aug 18, 2014 - 09:11am PT
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Chouinard catalogs prior to 1962 consisted of a single mimeographed sheet of paper listing pitons and prices. I probably still have one (1960) in my files if it hasn't faded to being unreadable.
He'd bring a steamer trunk full of hand-made pitons to the Tetons and stash it under Peter Lev's bunk in the Jenny Lake guides bunkhouse.
The story was that he would hammer them out on a rock in his mother's back yard from 4130 ChromeMoly aircraft steel.
To make a purchase, you first had to find Yvon, then go together to find Peter, and then go to the bunkhouse and slide the trunk out from under the bunk and select your purchase.
I still have one of those original hand-made Lost Arrows that didn't get left on a climb somewhere.
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Aug 18, 2014 - 10:29am PT
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Well said! Like lightening, the paparazzi strike again. While glasses, key chains, carabiners, holds, and shoes certainly make the show an epic for us, the memories hold the greatest allure for me. Marty defiantly standing in the way of security while I jumped on the starting grips of the PsicoComp is certainly among my most favorite.
As the "master of cups", I favor the aluminum Black Diamond pint. This show favored the aluminum pints over the more traditional glass. The Patagonia "glass" AL pint is also high on the awesome scale.
This year I joined the American Alpine Club. Each new registrant was entered in a raffle for a PETZL care package. In an amazing turn of luck, I won! six quickdraws, a helmet, a grigri 2, adjama harness (My Size!), and a locking biner.
Super amazing time. Many love and thanks to all in the industry! I am a Luchador!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Aug 18, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
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Wow Marty! Thanks for all the great posts and dedication.
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couchmaster
climber
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Aug 18, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
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Thanks Marty! "Who's awake now?". We all are, good stuff.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
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I obtained a few more BD catalogs from Black Diamond, Robert G, and the AZ Hiking Shack.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Awesome stuff, Marty!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2014 - 07:09pm PT
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Paul Dief, Phoenix Rock Gym owner was digging through the archive shelves at the gym, you know the forgotten shelves with the 1/2" layer of chalk dust, and he came across this gem. The gym moved around 2001 to a new building so I am not sure how this ended up at the new location.
This is a poster advertising a Warren Harding slideshow being held in Tempe Arizona August 23, and the postdate on the mailing tube shows 1989. Poster has a perfect Warren Harding signature in red ink. The poster tube is sent to Bill Sewrey (misspelled on tube) who was the owner of Desert Mtn Sports store, and a local old timer climbing legend known as the mud man. I am not sure if the writing on the tube is from Harding since other Harding documents show he mostly wrote in lower case lettering. Great find Dief!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2014 - 11:36am PT
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Hans Florine was in Phoenix two weeks ago and did a clinic at the Phoenix Rock Gym, and did a slideshow/video presentation at ASU (Arizona State University) for the ASU Outdoors Club. The show was called "The Race for the Nose." Great history documenting the speed ascents on the Nose Route. Hans did a great job with his presentation to a crowd of around 100 people. I am amazed that Hans has been on the Nose Route 97 times, Wow!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2014 - 11:29pm PT
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For complete details about this display and Chouinard gear go to Supertopo forum "Chouinard Gear Mystery Questions."
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Chouinard Equipment History
My deadline to complete the Chouinard Equipment display at the Hiking Shack was by Thanksgiving 2014, and I beat it by one week. Five months of work and it was totally worth it! Seeing the Chouinard display all in one piece is quite inspirational! I am actually surprised that I had this many Chouinard pieces on hand to show. Another Karabin masterpiece completed! 17 panels, 2 shelf displays, and a top grid section for soft goods. Thank you to everybody for your historical input and comments toward the many Chouinard products shown. Thank you to everybody who have donated items to the Karabin Climbing Museum over the years. The AZ Hiking Shack has all of your hiking and climbing gear needs, and is located 3244 E.Thomas Road in Phoenix.
Five month project, 8 cans spray glue, 450 feet of wire, various color poster boards, foam core board, 150 feet of double stick tape, paint and wood 1/2” boards. The photos of the gear was shot in my back yard on the sidewalk between the house and garage. Sidewalk concrete was poured in 1945. My cat Sasha inspected every piece of gear as the photos were taken. Photos were taken by a iPhone 4S camera. Musical inspiration: Jimi Hendrix, Led Zeppelin, Grand Funk Railroad, Rush, Who, Jethro Tull, The Doors, Animals, Robin Trower, Santana, Motorhead, and more.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2014 - 11:47pm PT
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This is one of my climbing schwag displays located at the Phoenix Rock Gym. The two photos is one display case built in 2007, top and bottom photos. I believe there is over 2000 items in this case. I am presently building another display case to show/store the pile of schwag items I got over the last few years.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2015 - 07:27am PT
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Over the years I picked up a few Screamers for the museum. These days there are many manufactured for Construction use called Shock Absorbers.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 06:37am PT
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I obtained a few more climbing schwag items over the years which were piling up in my storage boxes, so I redid the old display case on the stairs at the Phoenix Rock Gym, Tempe AZ. The top photo is the overall display, the lower photos are closer up sections of the display.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jan 20, 2015 - 07:57am PT
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Marty, those displays are quite amazing. Congratulations on putting together such a great display and archive. Inspirational to say the least.
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couchmaster
climber
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Jan 20, 2015 - 09:38am PT
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FANTASTIC MARTY.....JAW DROPPING SO.....
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2015 - 04:10pm PT
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I obtained this fine gem from VooDoo climbing holds at the 2003 Phoenix Boulder Blast held in Superior AZ. I believe that Gina's mom created 10 of these VooDoo plush dolls.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Great collection.
I can't help observing that a pretty good percent of that ancient stuff is what is on my current rack.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2015 - 07:34pm PT
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The Phoenix Rock Gym has limited wall space left to be had, but I found another place to put a few display cases above the lockers. Since the two other display cases are loaded with mainly schwag, I created a eye candy display with a few fun wide crack devices.
The gear display is located above the lockers and another cabinet will be placed just right of it. The new schwag display is at the top of the stairs that lead to the old gear store, which we are now using as a climbers lounge. The other larger schwag display cabinet is located over by the beginner climbing area in the gym.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2015 - 09:25pm PT
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For Superbowl 49, downtown Phoenix was transformed into “Superbowl Central,” downtown Phoenix’s Super Bowl party, (just a few miles from my house). A huge 30’ tall x 100’ wide climbing wall was built symbolizing the the north rim of the Grand Canyon, with a waterfall in the center symbolizing the Colorado river. 20 climbers could climb at the same time for a cost of $5.00 per climb. The wall is called the “Grand Canyon Experience.” After the Superbowl was over the wall was donated to the city of Phoenix for future use somewhere. When the wall was being dismantled, many of the climbing holds were donated to Focus Climbing Center for their assistance with the climbing wall during the Superbowl event. So as employee Cody was washing the holds, he came up with the brilliant idea of donating a few of the holds to the museum. Through owner Joe’s approval of course! So big thanks Cody Abernathy for keeping the history alive! Awesome!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Feb 17, 2015 - 12:28am PT
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Marty my friend, in your "Gear display - left, Phoenix Rock Gym", your “Seizemo” was not made by CMI in 1970. In fact, it is a Seismo made by CCH (Dave Waggoner) in 1986.
All the rest just makes me think that you are THE Maestro! Hat off Marty for all your impressive work!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 05:48am PT
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Stephane, Thanks for the correction. When I was putting together the display I was looking through all of my CMI info and I could not find the Seismo listed anywhere. Now it makes sense! Because the Seismo is Colorado Custom Hardware. Wow 1986 and I thought it was as early as 1979. Thanks again Stephane!
Another question with the same display case, center far left by Goldline cord (tagged "Germany"), Salewa wide crack device that is two pieces held together by a large cotter pin. What is that item named and year created?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 07:34am PT
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What is strange is that on my cams display board the Seismo information is correct. For some reason my brain changed the info. I call this a Marty blonde moment!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Feb 17, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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The Salewa Panther-Klemmkeil was made in size 0 and 1 in 1980.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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Pysanka
Ukrainian eggs
Tools of the trade. I aways start with the Goldschlager. My mom and dad taught me how to make Ukrainian eggs when I was one year old. Fun and easy! Let me show you how its done.
Pick out a few colors and a few rock climbing company beer glasses, and prepare the egg dye.
The technique is to draw on the egg with melted beeswax. So what you want to stay white you cover with the beeswax. progressively you move up the color scale of dyes continually covering the egg with beeswax.
I am going to make four eggs so you can see the process. Two of the eggs I drew a pattern on with pencil and two of the eggs I will just freestyle. The best way to make the eggs is to not have a plan.
Here are the white eggs with the finished wax pattern ready to dip into yellow dye
Under the wax is white and yellow patterns, ready to dip in orange dye
Under the wax is white, yellow and orange patterns, ready to dip in red dye
Under the wax is white, yellow, orange, and red patterns, ready to dip in blue dye
The blue dye turned out a bit dark so I will stop here on the process. This is what the eggs look like once the layers of drawings are completed.
Using the candle flame, slowly melt and wipe over and over the wax off of the egg to reveal its cool design.
And this is what the finished eggs look like. Start to finish the four eggs took me just under six hours to complete. Even though I made mistakes the eggs always turn out cool, unless you drop it by accident.
This is the side view of the eggs. At this point I use a Dremmel tool to make holes in each end of the egg and blow the yoke out. Put the egg on a nice stand in a safe place, and it will last forever.
Happy Easter everybody!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Scott Newell sent me a few boxes of old catalogs, and within them is many gems!
A few more Chouinard and Black Diamond catalogs to add to the others shown earlier on this thread.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Apr 30, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
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Scott Newell - thanks for donating!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 05:03pm PT
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Dief, the owner/janitor of the Phoenix Rock Gym was going through the dusty archive shelves again, and came across this old relic. Every time I sat on the top of Pinnacle Peak or the Monk on Camelback mtn, I would ponder at the one inch metal stud sticking out on each summit. The stud on Pinnacle Peak looks like somebody cut it with a cutting torch, and the Monk stud looks sawed off. I guess somebody in 1982 installed two of these large multi-use plate anchors, and they were removed shortly after. This is the anchor from the Monk.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 05:16pm PT
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Josh at PIKA remade his Ibis and Spoonbill hooks, now in larger sizes. Yeah, they are monster big! A nice addition to the other PIKA hooks already in the museum.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 05:58pm PT
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Back in November 2014 I visited local climbing legend Tom Taber, who started climbing in the mid 1960s as well as collecting gear. Tom is well known for his many first ascents at “the Overlook,” a fun basalt crag in Oak Creek Canyon near Sedona AZ. As usual he showed me that his pitons are longer than mine and these I cannot have, (but I really want). But I was still able to score a few items for the museum, Czech ring angle and a Bashie made by Lee Dexter. Tom is also known for his amazing bottle walking abilities.
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Cool stuff, Marty! Thanks for all you do for the climbing community, and thanks for updating this thread.
Rich Jones
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2015 - 03:34pm PT
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If you are into climbing competitions, there is a lot going on in Arizona. Back in 2007 it seemed like 95% of the gyms returning members were adults, but now with all of the large youth teams training at the gym, the percentages change to something like a 25% youth- 75% adult ratio. These days the 14 year old kids are showing the adults how to climb the 5.12s and 5.13s, and the rise in the youth teams have encouraged the demand for more climbing competitions. Yeah! The AZR team is huge, Rock Phenoms team is large and Rocks & Ropes/Bloc team is large, and more and more kids are joining the teams every day.
The Arizona 2015 year starts off with select youth and adult climbers going to the ABS Nationals which finishes off the ABS season. USA Climbing has two competition season programs offered to youth climbers, and has a separate adult open competition at the Nationals level. ABS is the bouldering season (American Bouldering Series) which runs from September to February, and SCS is the rope climbing season (Sport Climbing Series) which runs from February to July. The youth climbers have to pay a membership fee, attend two local sanctioned ABS or SCS competitions to make it into the Regionals competition. Win Regionals then go to Divisionals. Win Divisionals then go to Nationals. Win Nationals and show that you are one of the strongest kids in the USA.
Focus Climbing center in Tempe started 2015 with their 4 comp series. The comps are created for youth and adult climbers. Wednesday evening comps, great for testing your skills. Robert Olson attended and said the comps were fun with lots of focused energy. Joe Czerwinski was the host, routes set by Jack Lester, Justin Wagner, Cody Abernathy, Joe Czerwinski. Climbers received cash prizes and gym memberships.
January 14 Redpoint Routes
February 11 Onsight Bouldering
March 18 Speed Bouldering
April 22 Dyno Competition
March 7, the Phoenix Rock Gym in Tempe hosted a local youth SCS competition. Since this comp is early in the SCS season, USA Climbing allows us to have a redpoint rope competition, over the onsite format the climbers will see for the rest of the season. The reason we choose to do this is because the redpoint comp kids get 53 routes to choose from. The onsight comp kids will be only seeing 3 routes. For the competition we set 53 routes rated 5.7 - 5.13. Two hours climb time, top 3 completed routes for score. Since the comp is centered around youth, 75% of the routes were designed so the reach was no greater than 60 inches. Two of the 5.12s were set at 57 inches. My reach for example is 90 inches, so now imagine it is only 57 inches and course set a 5.12 where a youth and a adult on the same route will agree to its rating. This type of course setting is an art that many course setters do not have the patience for. I can mention names of many setters that helped teach me this art, but the measuring tape is the one in the end that always told the truth. If they can reach the holds, we have seen 8 year olds climb 5.12s. Totally amazing! I was the comp organizer, Robert Olson and I shared being the comp MC, and Cody Abernathy was lead course setter. Climbers received USA Climbing SCS ribbons to 7th place.
March 21, Queen Creek Boulder Comp #2 held at Oak Flat in Superior. Outdoor competition on dacite boulders. 6 hour climb time, top 8 completed problems for score, 400 problems to choose from. Comp packet, shirt, food, camping, fun, massage table, feats of strength competitions, large raffle. Large amount of volunteers, rescue staff, Director was Tony Cadorin and lead course setter was Mother Nature - somewhat tamed by Greg Varela. I was totally packed and ready to dominate at the comp but woke up with a nasty stomach flu. I tried all of the pharmaceuticals: the Echinacea, amoxicillin, Day Quill, Night Quill, the rest of the time Quill, chicken soup, then added the religious treatment using authority through the blood of Jesus, outside in my back yard flogging myself as I used internal centering for healing, and then by noon, I was throwing in the towel and unpacked the truck. The flu won! My friends called later throwing salt in my wounds by telling me how totally awesome the comp was. I was so bummed that I missed this comp! I met with Tony a week later for lunch and he surprised me with a first place QCBC glass cup, and the second and third place QCBC medals for the museum. Thanks again Tony!
March 28, AZ on the Rocks in Scottsdale hosted a youth local SCS competition. The comp was onsight format: 4 minutes on, 1 minute rotate, 4 minutes rest, 3 routes (Regionals format). Also speed climbing time trials were held. Ashley Anixter was the event organizer and Kody Alsadi was the lead course setter. Climbers received USA Climbing SCS ribbons to 7th place. Great routes and fun comp experience for the kids.
April 18, Thrash & Dangle Fest at the Phoenix Rock Gym in Tempe. This comp still holds as being in the top 10 best “everybody climbing comp” in the USA, and every year we put even more into it! Thrash & Dangle Fest was created to show climbers that climbing is a lifestyle. Not individual companies or rock gyms competing against each other, but everybody all in one building together having tons of fun! I will put the 2015 T&D story on a separate post when I get the photos together. 3 hour bouldering comp, top 5 for score, 129 problems, 7 sponsored routes, 7 climbing side events, comp packet, shirts, mfg tables, massage tables, food, shirts for the many volunteers, HUGE raffle and award ceremony. 96 sponsors. $10,000 in prizes. Participating in side events gain extra raffle tickets. I am the event organizer where Robert Olson and I direct the comp and gather prize donations along with Erin Orwig. Robert was the MC and Justin Wagner was the lead course setter. Climbers received cash prizes for Open category, product prizes for Age category, MK Productions ribbons and trophies, and Desert Rat Forge 1st place wood PRG plaques. Totally awesome comp! Thanks again to Three Ball Climbing for creating the Ninja Monkey Obstacle Course, and thanks to Four Peaks Brewery for the 26 kegs!
April 25, Beta Boulder Blast III at the Beta Bouldering Gym in Flagstaff. Local bouldering comp that is totally awesome fun! The whole gym gets stripped and reset for the comp! Great routes on large features and awesome climbing angles! Separate youth and adult comp. Adult Advanced finals showdown between the top three male and female climbers. 3 hour bouldering comp, top 5 for score, 63 problems to choose from. Shirt, food, raffle, Dyno exhibition, and party following the comp. Event organizer was Amylee Thornhill, MC was Tim Melnick and the lead course setter was Thomas Maxson. Youth climbers received mfg prizes and Advanced finals climbers received cash prizes.
April 25, Rocks & Ropes in Tucson hosted a youth local SCS comp. The comp was onsight format: 4 minutes on, 1 minute rotate, 4 minutes rest, 3 routes (Regionals format). Jason Mullins was the event organizer and Luke Bertelsen was the lead course setter. Climbers received USA Climbing SCS ribbons to 7th place. Great routes and fun comp experience for the kids!
If you are in the Youth SCS competition, Nationals is July 9-12
So thats what was happening on the comp scene during the spring of 2015 in AZ. Nothing is announced yet for the summer or fall months, but last year in the fall there were a few more fun comps. The fall also starts the ABS local competitions at the rock gyms.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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In 2005 I received a box of historical climbing items from Derek Marshall in South Africa. Derek is the owner of SKY climbing company that makes bolt hangers. In 2004 I gave a shout out to many manufactures that I was nearing 1000 different bolt hangers in my museum. I just needed a few more to reach 1000. I believe Scott Miller relayed the message to Derek, and Derek responded adding 40 more different hangers to the museum. Derek also included some homemade climbing gear items.
This collection of gear is homemade created in South Africa by Allen Luck and Craig Bester. Allen and Craig started climbing on the Buffalo River in East London independently of any other climbers. They did not realize that climbing gear was available in South Africa, thus they made their own gear which was copied from gear seen in a library book. For shoes they used Ninja Tabbies - webbed boots with separated big toe. Once a local Mountain Club was formed in East London, they crawled out of the woodwork at the inaugural meet. Allen and Craig opened up 15 routes on their homemade gear before they purchased new climbing gear. By 2005 Allen and Craig established over 400 routes each.
The laser cut stainless steel nut tool was made by Vincent Eagan in South Africa. The strange cut out shape is a baboon sitting on a rock. The company name is Paplo, which in Latin means baboon. Vincent also made chalk bags, rope bags and gear slings. The picture below is the harness Allen is rappelling with in the photo. It is made out of a seatbelt from an automobile. Snap the seat belt buckle together and off you go! Just don’t touch the buckle quick release button as you are climbing at any time!
The shoes are Rock Sport Mantras, the only shoe by 2005 that was manufactured in South Africa. The Chalk bag is homemade by Allen.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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The seat-belt harness is awesome.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2015 - 09:54pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2015 - 04:29pm PT
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I was digging through my storage and came across one of my bolt hanger display boards. Back in 1999 when I was a home husband changing diapers, I put together 20 or so display boards of bolt hangers, hooks and hand drills. This is one of the hanger boards. The first photo is the overall board, and photos below are closer up sections of the board. I posted this also on the "Bolts from the wayback machine" thread.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2015 - 10:41am PT
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These are a few FISH catalogs from the 1990s. When I first started climbing and collecting gear, I discovered a unique company named FISH. I was the excited collector looking to score some FISH hooks and ordered them from the climbing store. After 9 months had passed the hooks would magically appear and Keith, the owner at Desert Mtn Sports, would present the prize items to me. The moment always felt like confetti and balloons should have been falling from the ceiling. It didn’t matter if you prepaid for the FISH item, the prize was actually receiving it. Over time I developed a system to ordering and receiving FISH product items. First order the item, second is to keep the faith for 9 months and through the cosmos let Russ know that you are indeed worthy to own a FISH product, and third is the confetti and balloons dance. Thanks Russ for the fun over the years. Hi Susan:)
I never was able to land the FISH zebra Swami. Two years ago Misty Mountain Threadworks completed that order and surprised me with a Zebra Cadillac harness.
Tear……finally……….it’s awesome!
Pitch three on Moonlight Buttress that leads up to the rocker block has a broken bolt which required us to use a Doubloon. It is a wild feeling hanging off of a single thread on a bolt that broke when you have quite a lot of gear and ropes dangling off of you. The Doubloon actually worked amazing. The only downfall to the Doubloon is the sharp scoop would eventually cut through the sewn webbing. PIKA Mountaineering came up with a solution by putting their webbing in a separate hole. PIKA is the item with the yellow webbing. The climbing party above us didn’t have a Doubloon so they used tent poles as a clip stick to bypass the broken bolt. There are a lot of tricks to be learned for good aid climbing.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
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For the last two days I got to hang out with Terri Laine, who is and has been the schwag manager for Patagonia Clothing for the last 30 years. She did not draw the logos, but is the director with everything involving working with the artists, creating company banners, stickers, frisbees, product labels, lip goo labels and basically a touch of her is in every Patagonia product. She has been creating beautiful historical shadow box displays for Patagonia, and has now become the Patagonia archival manager. We toured the insides of the Karabin Museum but her main interest for sure was the Chouinard display at the AZ Hiking Shack. In the photo you can see that Terri has found Chouinard gold. Terri mentioned that a Patagonia gift box is on its way to the Karabin Museum........tear!
Thanks for the fun Terri!
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Rockies Obscure
Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
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Jun 19, 2015 - 02:02pm PT
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Marty,
Where exactly does one go to view your AMAZING collection?
FISH is mentioned also on page 54 of the Daniel Duane novel "Lighting Out".
I love FISH magazine ads!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
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For now my museum outlet has been Supertopo. I have posted in many forum threads but my main four are:
"Marty Karabin's Message To All Climbers"
"Chouinard Gear Mystery Questions"
"Dolt Stories"
"Worlds Greatest Bolt Hanger Thread"
I feel that Supertopo is a great home for the Karabin Museum! I have a large Chouinard display at the AZ Hiking Shack in Phoenix, at the Phoenix Rock Gym is two climbing schwag displays totaling around 4000 schwag items, and a small Large cams and gear display at the Phoenix Rock gym. Another display is presently being built for the Phoenix Rock gym which will contain a few hundred belay devices, and some of my bolt hangers will be displayed in the new climbers lounge at the gym. At the upcoming Outdoor Retailers Show in Utah, I will be displaying 68 nut tools in the Omega Pacific Booth and showing 50 others on paper within the display. Edited by Stephane Pennequin. Thanks again Omega Pacific!!! A few items are at my house but the biggest amount of gear I have is in a few different storage locations. Terri and I were talking about possibly putting the Chouinard display at Patagonia corporate when I switch out the Hiking Shack display to something new. In the past I had everything at my house but I feared coming home someday and it would be all gone from a fire or something. Also at my house I obtained so much gear that I just could not sleep anymore. So now the museum is spread out so not all eggs are in one basket. The displays that I am building around town are considered storage for a bigger future project. Someday I hope a building becomes available to house the Karabin Climbing Museum and other museums as well. We are all getting older and the history needs to stay intact somehow. For now I am reorganizing the Karabin Museum and am posting the items for everybody to see.
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Rockies Obscure
Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
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Jun 19, 2015 - 09:27pm PT
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Amazing collection, thanks for sharing Marty!
A collection like yours should be in a place like this....
http://miracleofamericamuseum.org/about/
Every room covers some aspect of American History, of careers, hobbies, war, you name it!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
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I have a few topo maps which were made by Rand Black: Granite Mtn topo, and Salathe Free topo. And recently Art Christiansen added another map to the museum, a huge El Cap Route Map made by Rand Black 1990 edition.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2015 - 08:55pm PT
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Jim Waugh was in town from Thailand and brought back a few shirts for the museum!
Thanks Jim!
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pennylaine
Social climber
Ventura, CA
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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You are right! The Chouinard collection would make a fantastic poster.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2015 - 04:50pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
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I have been Patagonia schwagged! Thanks Terri!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
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It is time again for the summer Outdoor Retailers Show in Salt Lake City Utah.
Yahoo!!!
For this show the Karabin Climbing Museum will be displaying Nut Tools in the Omega Pacific booth. Thanks Omega Pacific!!!!! 68 nut tools showing and 50 others on picture cards. The display was further edited by Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum. For this show I am excited to see many friends and play with the new products for 2016.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
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Outdoor Retailers Show
 Show review, 100 photos
Salt Palace in Salt Lake City Utah, August 5-8. Summer Market.
For this show the paparazzi crew was Jaime, Marty, Spencer, and Neo so the many photos are by the four of us. I attended the show representing the AZ Hiking Shack as their retail buyer (Thanks Dale!). I also represent myself as the Karabin Climbing Museum. Overall in the four days I looked at 80% of the company booths (hundreds) playing with the new 2016 products, but my main interest is Climbing and Mountaineering products. Another reason I attend the show is to personally thank the company owners for sponsoring me as their professional athlete. I am amazed at how many climbing stars were at the show signing posters. I loved it! The energy at the show felt really positive! On top of that we attended the Reel Rock Tour #10 sneak preview party, PsicoBloc finals, and climbed for a few hours at Millcreek Momentum gym! Total dream vacation….faint!
Thanks to all the manufacturers for creating all of your awesome products!!!And thanks for creating all of the fun at the show. It was awesome!
This show is like very huge!!! Where to start? Drop off the Nut tool display at the Omega Pacific booth. Then go freestyle getting a feel for the show and to figure out where everybody is located in the building or out in the pavilions.
Besides Sam Krieg, the first rock star we came across was Hans Florine. Hans was silly as he was showing us a new knife set that he was creating(?)rep. He was pulling concealed knives out of everywhere. Luckily for me I brought to the show many select magazine page photos to get signed, and I have a Hans Florine.
I noticed the large Red Chili banner right away so didn’t waste any time seeing if Stefan Glowacz was at the show. When I walked into the booth Stefan was first to say hello and we went right to business with the signatures. I brought along an extra Stefan card to be signed (Stephan misspelled) for Robert since he was unable to attend the show. Stefan presented his show “Into the Light” which we missed due to being at the Reel Rock feature.
This is my 8th year as a evolv sponsored athlete. Thanks evolv for believing in me and giving me your support through the years! I just got a pair of the new evolv Cruzer Psyche and they are totally awesome! Great for course setting, approach, warm up routes, and stylish looking to wear for the nights on the town. Thanks also evolv for the team show schwag!
Liberty Mountain handed out little sampler products and had book signings presented by Falcon (Globe Pequot Press).
There was a lot of talk at the show about the Access Fund purchasing the access road to the Homestead limestone climbing area in Arizona. Super cool! The Homestead has grown over the years and now has around 300 routes. Please support the Homestead project. The limestone is amazing with tuffas, fossils and other cool outdoor rock features.
On the third day of the show at the Adidas booth was a line of tables and climbing stars signing posters. The first star was John Long and I know in the past John and I have had rough times together, but on this trip he was totally cool! I bumped into him many times throughout the show and at PsicoBloc. John signed a poster to Robert and the rock gym as well. What a totally awesome poster! First one day ascent of the Nose, Westbay, Bridwell, Long - (wearing the Bridwell shirt).
There is so much to see at the show and it only lasts for four days. I always wish for it to be extended to a six day show, but when I announce my 6 day dream I usually get hit by cabbage and tomatoes. 6 day show, 6 day show…
MK and Goose. I received this awesome Zebra Cadillac harness from Goose two years ago and I love it. Thanks Misty for the sponsorship! All of my other harnesses went into the museum. I climb every day and use my Misty Cadillac harness for everything.
I knew Tommy was going to be at the show. How could he not with the recent Dawn Wall accomplishment. I believe last year he missed the summer show because he was working to free the Dawn Wall. At this show the climbing industry kept Tommy and Kevin busy. Poster signings, Reel Rock speech etc.
Vibram had their mobile resoling factory at the show and was resoling shoes on a drop off and pick up later process. I got a closer look at the Vibram resoling set up. Also Vibram wanted to be a part of the museum and donated a few dozen different soles. Thanks Vibram!!!
I was working the Sanuk booth for a few days trying to land the nail polish schwag set and I was having no luck. But somehow Neo was successful and donated it (reluctantly) to the museum. Then after the show was completely over…tears….on our way to get food we saw this Sanuk truck with Sierra Blair-Coyle on the side, and Chris Sharma sitting on the back bumper.
I give the show glass award to Blue Water ropes for their creation of the Dawn Wall beer glass which includes a topo of the route, a official Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson signature in silver sharpie, and beer if you wanted to drink from it.
For the most interesting items I saw at the show I give honor to all of the newer ultralight camming units coming out on the market. Many to choose from and all unique designs.
That’s the show but still to come the Reel Rock #10 Sneak Preview party, PsicoBloc climbing finals, and Momentum gym Millcreek.
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overwatch
climber
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Aug 16, 2015 - 05:19pm PT
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you should have taken more pictures.. Alex Puccio needs a spanking
thanks for posting even though I only got about a third of them. I'll check back for the rest later
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
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Reel Rock sneak preview party
On day two of the OR show evening was a special showing for a limited 200(?) people, of segments of the Reel Rock tour. I have to give a big THANKS to Petzl for coming through with the show tickets for us! Food was provided and beers, and a collectors Reel Rock glass. The film producers and climbing talent gave commentary before and after the movies. It was awesome! I can't wait till the whole movie is completed to see what else is included in this years tour. Big applause!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 16, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
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Schist Marty! I'm overwhelmed by your OR show tour photos. Thanks for taking the time to post them up.
This is the first year since around 1990 that I have not worked there as a manufacturer's rep.
I retired from my last outdoor gear company in Jan 2015, & got a nice retirement-party------and then the boss called me about a week before this OR and told me I was more than welcome to attend with their company badge. I kept waiting for him to use the key motivational words: Pay or Money. He did not.
I really had a great time in Idaho's Mountains during the OR show!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Aug 16, 2015 - 11:48pm PT
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Really impressive Marty, really impressive! With such a report, I was almost able to "visit" the show with you! And... thank you very much for the "made-to-measure" report and photographs about the very latest nuts & cams that I received in my mail box this morning! Nice work!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
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Fritz and Stephane - Thanks for the kind words. The show was really amazing and everything flowed very well for the paparazzi crew. I was amazed how the trip was quite inexpensive. Four of us drove and shared a hotel room which brought the cost down. The food was free mostly provided by generous manufacturers and many power food and drink free samples to be tasted at the show. We purchased the PsicoBloc VIP tickets, but could of got the general admission pass with 20% off coupon instead. After the show ended on Saturday we were guests at the Mill Creek Momentum climbing Gym.
Once again I give a full applause to the many people and Companies that took care of us at the OR show. I give another full applause to all of the rockstar climbers that attended the show and gave out their signatures and smiles to their fans! For the signature collector, this summer 2015 show was top notch! I wasn’t even trying and I still came home with 75 signatures. I still hold the OR show record at 138 different rockstar signatures in one-four day show, back around 2007. Robert with the Olson Climbing Collection that same year got, I believe, 122 signatures. I only know of one man that could beat my signature record, Steve Schneider, and thats only if he brings his ‘A’ game along!
Fritz after 25 years you are allowed to miss one summer OR show. My first OR was mid 1990s with Jim Waugh. I guess the difference is that as a rep you are stationed by your booth for most of the show. My OR show consists of mostly dancing through the isles acting like a teenage girl being amazed by, and checking out everything. Hugs, signatures, taste testing all of the products, petting all of the animals, and catching up with old friends. However I had you in mind and looked for you at the show. I bumped into Brian with SLC a few times. It was nice to see Dale Bard at the show. My paparazzi crew got him drunk on jello shots in the Gramicci booth a few years ago.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
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PsicoBloc August 6-7, 2015
50 photos
Deep-water soloing (DWS), also known as PsicoBloc, is where water at the base of a climb protects the climber from injury in case of a fall. This comp was amazing! The climbing wall is in the Utah Olympic Park and is built over the landing pool for the freestyle aerial skiers practicing their flips. Food vendors, climbing companies showing their goods, climbing stars signing posters, drinks and more.
The women climbers were almost completed but it started raining, and then pouring, and everybody was told to go inside the buildings in case of lightning strikes. We were contemplating leaving but we were not allowed out of the building by security. We were inside the Joe Quinney building and It was quite comfortable with a cafeteria and a few museums to look at. There was a lot of people inside, like totally packed but It gave me time to check out the museums.
So after the museum tour and getting something to eat, the lights went back on and the show started again. A boom-arm came out where organizers dried the climbing holds and ran the last few women through the finals. To give the finals women a rest between heats, Craig Demartino and another climber climbed the wall. After the women finished climbing two skiers jumped for the crowd while the course setters reset the wall for the Mens finals. I heard the woman’s finals route was rated 5.12 and the mens was 5.14-. During the reset the course setters left the last two holds of the woman’s routes to ensure the men could top out in the rain.
The rain and lightning got heavy again so after 40 minutes the comp was called final/cancelled. For the women Charlotte Durif took home first place and $5000. For the men the results went to the fastest time which was Jimmy Webb as the mens winner. The 16 mens finalists decided to split the $10,000 prize purse equally amongst themselves. Once again a fantastic show! Nature calls the rules but overall it looked like everybody had a great time!
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overwatch
climber
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Aug 17, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
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Pretty classy and honorable they split the prize.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2015 - 09:33pm PT
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Overwatch - I agree! Trophy technically goes to Jimmy Webb but overall it was cool that they split the cash prize between all of the finalists!
So I keep looking at the photo directly above this post. It is the PsicoBloc wall but in the lower right corner there is a fuzzy image. I have no clue what created that fuzzy image but my first thought was that it could be one of those mystery "Rods" or "Air Rod" flying illusion/alien images caught only by cameras. The government is listening in. The Aliens are listening in. Good thing I don't have much to say.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
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So I looked further into it and these three photos were taken within 4 seconds time. First photo no fuzzy image Air Rod, then there it is, and then nothing again. Totally cool!!!
My guess is that the strange object is a moth and the wings are opening and closing super fast, and we are seeing the time it took for the camera to actually fully capture the shot. I say this because the rain lines start and stop and don't fully continue to the ground. These photos were taken without a flash, iPhone 4S
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 08:34am PT
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Momentum climbing gym, Millcreek Utah
22 photos
Saturday at 3:00 the announcement is made and the OR show is officially over. It is quite a experience seeing all of these wonderful company booths suddenly being torn down in a hurry. The sliding doors at the receiving dock opens, the floor carpet is immediately rolled up and all that is heard is rolls of tape wrapping boxes and droves of people carrying booth display parts out to their vehicles. A few last handshakes and hugs and then we leave the building to get out of peoples way. We decided to stay for an extra day and were invited by Steven Jeffery to visit the Millcreek Momentum climbing gym. I was tired from four days of hard schwagging at the show, but I was totally psyched to go climb at this amazing gym.
Jaime mentioned that Kai stopped to watch me climb the 5.11- arete route before leaving the gym. He was probably taking notes from the old man on how smooth climbing can be. Steven returned to the gym after resetting the PsicoBloc wall with recreational routes. Steven gave us the overall tour of the gym which was awesome. I am amazed on how many holds they have in their hold arsenal compared to what I have down at the Phoenix Rock Gym.
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pennylaine
Social climber
Ventura, CA
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Aug 27, 2015 - 11:04am PT
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Thanks for the great tour of the show Marty! You rock!
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overwatch
climber
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Aug 27, 2015 - 11:45am PT
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That is a lot of work posting all that, you are in your own little swagtopia. I will have to save the rest for a sick day. Whew! Thanks for posting
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 27, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
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Paparazzi!
I see myself at the comp...too funny...
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2015 - 06:56am PT
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Its time again for the USA Climbing ABS comp! Actually a few things have changed for fall 2015 and with USA Climbing there is no more ABS (American Bouldering Series) and SCS (Sport Climbing Series). The names have been changed to the USA Climbing Bouldering competition and USA Climbing Sport and Speed competition. The USA Climbing logo has also been changed which is reflected on the award ribbons. The award ribbons are only First through Sixth place, dropping the 7th place ribbon. We just hosted a local USA Climbing Bouldering competition at the Phoenix Rock Gym which had 87 competitors. It is amazing to watch these youth kids sending all of the boulder problems up to V10 ratings.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2015 - 08:24am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2015 - 08:27am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Time again for the Flagstaff Roof Rally at Priest Draw, presented by the Beta Bouldering Gym AZ. Totally awesome comp! 6 hours of climbing on super cool limestone roof boulders, perfect weather. Awards for ages and open - local and non local. Raffle, beer, award ceremony and pancake breakfast the following morning. Great fun and big THANKS to Beta Bouldering Gym for hosting the event!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2015 - 11:01am PT
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Ashley from AZ on the Rocks climbing gym in Scottsdale donated her old stock of USA Climbing ribbons to the Karabin Museum. Totally awesome!!! I have stacks of these ribbons already but I will gladly take more and more of them so don't throw them away, donate them to the museum! There are a few gems in this lot for sure! THANKS Ashley! I also seek the old JCCA ribbons if anybody has any.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
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This is an older style SCS medal from the Regionals competition.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2016 - 10:40pm PT
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Wow I haven't been on this thread for a while!
First order of business is thanking Maxim for the awesome 9.5 x 70m Yellow Jacket rope. I won the drawing for the rope at the summer 2015 OR show.
" THANKS! "
-And a huge HUG too!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2016 - 10:42pm PT
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From the chalky depths behind the walls of the Phoenix Rock Gym (aka employee storage), I retrieved the Climbing Dynamics climbing hold molds and brought them home to the museum. The Climbing Dynamics company was created by artist Chris Raypole around 1990. Chris shaped the holds, made the molds, sold the holds, and then also built climbing walls and structures in various places in the USA. The top rope areas and bouldering areas at the Phoenix Rock Gym were painted by Chris, and Chris also built the upstairs bouldering area. One of my first climbing competitions that I got last place in was on a Raypole built wall at Club Fit gym in north Phoenix. Chris is a AZ local legend who has sent 5.13s and took first place at many bouldering competitions. Today Chris still dabbles in the arts creating incredible ceramic masterpieces.
Chris started another company named Broken Wheel, which was a creation of hand carved magnets. I have the display stand instructions available but the display holder and magnets are in the display case at the rock gym.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2016 - 11:21pm PT
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Price comparison on chalk balls, REI store shelf........
Friction Labs is $10.00 more than the others because Friction Labs is a "Magic chalk ball."
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 19, 2016 - 11:29pm PT
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Just wanted to repost the OP, since it has gotten kinda lost in the process.
Amazing journey, Marty.
Since 2001 I have been experiencing spiritual awakening and now it has escalated to the highest level. I knew this was within me since I was a young child but nobody would believe me and most, even priests, thought I was delusional. I knew of things that the church does not tell people or maybe the church slightly misunderstood what Jesus was trying to teach us. I escaped all of my doubters by running to Arizona's vast desert, getting away from the church, and smoked a lot of pot to rid myself of the spirits. I lived my life in partial confusion but at the same time have met many thousands of the most incredible people you can meet. These people are a big hearted family of rock climbers.
In 2001 I was going through a divorce where I was crushed having two babies and the family being torn apart. I visited a doctor who gave me an experimental drug to ease my pain. I only asked for sleeping pills but this was what I was given instead. Over a two week period this drug caused heart spikes where my heart would stop, and moments later would start again. The drug was called Remeron. At first nobody believed me but eventually many experienced me passing out and they saw that I was not lying. The doctor still insisted that I continue taking the drug even though my Xwife was on the phone yelling at his office explaining that I was right then having a heart attack on the floor. I insisted seeing the doctor again and on my visit I had another heart spike in his office. When I woke I was in the hospital hooked up to monitors and other machines. I could see in my doctors eyes that he was very scared at not listening to what many had tried to tell him. I like my doctor and knew that this would eventually all be returned to normal. During one of the heart spikes I found myself in a dark tunnel with a very bright light in the distance. A figure appeared in the tunnel and I had a short conversation with this man? I am certain it was not Jesus but was a spirit. This spirit comically explained that it was not my time to be where I was.
Two years later, while I was on an in town boy scout climbing trip, I was approached by an amazing spiritual healer named Glenn. I like showing kids the magic I felt in climbing when I first started climbing, so at times I volunteer for free to teach kids on the weekends. Some of my friends saw the magic in what I was doing and joined me on my teaching, while other of my friends could not take a day off of their climbing weekend to help out without pay. Glenn excitedly told me that I was contacted and to prove it he told me the exact same words the figure in the tunnel told me. I am still blown away today from this awakening.
Of course I put the walls up in my mind again and was back to blocking my thoughts with the weed. In 2009 one day after the Outdoor Retailers Show in Salt Lake City, I had a climbing accident on a one move nothing boulder problem which somehow flipped me upside down landing me into a leaf pile. I had pads, three spotters, it was only 6' tall and visually nothing to get hurt on if the climber fell. This boulder problem is in the beautiful Little Cottonwood Canyon named Double Dyno. I somehow shattered my right leg femur bone in seven places. My two friends that I was with were leaving on a plane the next day which left me alone knowing nobody I saw. I live in Arizona. While I was in the Utah hospital I knew everything was going to be okay. I had a feeling that I was being cared for by higher forces than just the doctors, but it was a scary experience since the nurses were in a school environment of teaching and the faces that took care of me changed every day.
On the 5th hospital day I had a surprise visitor - Brian from SLC. I still tear up today reflecting on that moment as I first saw his face as he walked into the hospital room to surprise me. He of course had a prototype Chouinard/Frost Climaxe in his hands so I teared up even more in jealousy. Thank you Brian for being a great person! During my time in the hospital I was once again taken by the spirits on a journey of understanding. I was shown things that I cannot explain but I was granted an amazing feeling of peace. When I got back to Arizona many friends were there insisting they take care of me. I was truly Loved and I thank all of you over and over,…..and again!
The spiritual visions were still happening to me at my house and I called upon Glenn to help me understand what was going on. I have not seen Glenn in three years and he was at my front door step early the next morning. I wish there could be a Glenn in everybody's life then this world would only be about kindness and Love. My parents were present witnessing his amazing ability and my parents commented that it was a nice trick or something that he knew what he knew and said things aloud that he could not have known. This kinda scared my parents but at the same time Glenn came to me to give Marty his message, and not a message for my parents to understand. Kinda like the Oracle in the Matrix movies.
I went through my painful physical therapists smack down process which got me back onto my feet and walking again. Vincent you are brutal, but I Love what you have done for me. After a year I was back to climbing but kept having small accidents which kept me off of the rock. I am lead course setter at the Phoenix Rock Gym. I fell back into the same Marty pattern and put the minds walls back up and was back to the weed. Suddenly my leg was not responding, I was once again walking with a cane and went into a second surgery on January of 2011 to remove the hardware. My leg felt Soooooo much better after I had the Femur bone hardware removed. I slowly started working out again and then took a strange fall in the gym twisting my knee just right preventing me from climbing even again. Finally after healing, in June I went bouldering at the Draw in Flagstaff and during the warm up climbs on the simple walk down I slipped landing my right hand into a very healthy Agave plant.
I could not believe it! 21 spikes were shoved into and sticking out of my hand and a few totally through the knuckles of the two middle fingers. I had help from my friend Neo/Nick pulling out many of the spikes that we could see while the blood was flowing. Neo thank you for being strong with the situation and reacting to my injury as fast as you did. I am still upset that we had the video cameras right there and neither of us filmed the injury. We saw Zak Farmer the next day working at the Flagstaff gym and I tried to gross him out the best I could. My purple two middle fingers had puffed up twice the size they usually are. Amazingly I still have two spikes in my middle finger which I need to get surgery on to get them out.
I finally was able to get back to work and was excited to be climbing again, but this days work was reorganizing the back storage room with my super strong friend Joe Czerwinski. We finished up the work and Joe left leaving me to do the final tasks and then I was going to climb. Yeah! While shutting the roll-out back receiving door at the gym somehow my middle finger got trapped between the door panels. This was quite a shocking experience since there is no room between those panels when the door is shut for a middle finger to be stuck between them. I was by myself and had to roll the door back up to open the gap to get my finger out. Once again I was being told to focus on my mission, not my distraction.
Just after the Agave accident I was experiencing an intense spiritual awakening where my bed every night was soaked over and over. I was not sick but there was so much water in my shirt that I could ring it out. And I changed the shirt three times a night! I listened to the message and my need for the weed was taken away. No I did not just quit, I was so cleansed that I feel like I have never smoked any in my life. So teenage years to the mid 40s and now the code has been broken. I reflect on why I was even doing it in the first place for all of those years. It makes no sense.
This spiritual sensation is so great that I feel like I am floating now. Two weeks of the sweats and then I walked with God for four days. I understand so much now and everything in life makes sense. The formula to life is so easy no wonder kids act the way they do!!! While I am awake or asleep I feel that I am in two places at once. No I do not see Matrix atoms, but I can see the genuineness in everybody when they are not even talking. Surprisingly when people are talking to me having conversations at the rock gym, I only am picking up the words that have weight to them. I mention to my friends that I did not hear what you just said and could you please repeat it. If everybody would just talk out of their heart, everybody else would hear their message. There is so much unnecessary surface gibberish that people use between each other, no wonder the world is falling apart.
I met Chris Sharma when he was 14 years old. I was the media representative for ESPN and many other media companies that were present at the 21 Phoenix Bouldering Contests/Boulder Blasts. I never knew at that time that Chris was going to become the biggest inspirational figure in climbing to most climbers around the world. I set up interviews between the climbing superstars and the TV/ magazine representatives. Over the many years through familiarity Chris and I became passing friends. My greatest moment in my climbing life was while at one of the Phoenix Bouldering Contests, Chris came up to me near the end of the competition and said that he wanted to be my personal spotter for the last hour. Chris had already completed the 8 hardest problems at the competition with one hour to spare. I was very honored to have Chris following me around and carrying my pad. I was so honored that I stopped competing, and had every passing competitor stop to take a photo of them with Chris. Everybody has pictures of themselves hugging Chris with the biggest smiles I have ever seen in life.
I own many of Americas most priceless pieces of historical climbing gear and would trade all of it away just for the feeling I still feel from that moment in time. Chris now is so swamped with people wanting to see him climb that we have chased him out of the USA. I feel you Chris. My greatest moment was hugging him and I could care less what he climbs. Everybody else pushes the challenge "let's see if he could flash my route" and if he failed he would only be laughed at on these new Facebook's, My Spaces and U-tubes.
When climbing superstars come to my house, I do not take them to the local crag. We go out to the water park or paintball arena and to a fun lunch. Why do you think that your small local crag will interest these superstars when they are already climbing in the most fantastic places in the world? And then they are always pushed to climb the hardest routes at the local crag. People, a hug and a lunch will go further with these amazing talented climbers and they will remember you for life. If you want to challenge them, then you are just another wolf in the field. Chris also has a camp that he teaches youth kids the magic of climbing.
I started collecting climbing gear 20+ years ago. My greatest collecting inspiration is a man named Stephane Pennequin who lives in Corsica France. Stephane has the passion and started collecting climbing gear a few years before I did. Him and I had a beautiful relationship where we have never met each other, but we shared an amazing common passion for gear. Computers were just starting to come around, but Stephane and I only wrote hand written letters to each other occasionally surprising each other with an amazing gift we would receive in the mail. This bond between him and I was, and still is, very magical. The problem that developed is the creation of Ebay. Before Ebay, Stephane and Marty's only outlet for gear was through the climbing manufacturers, and through visiting the hero climbers of yesterday working to preserve gear we have never knew existed.
Over time we stopped writing each other, became distant in our lives, and became greedy on major pieces of gear that showed up on Ebay. There are many other collectors out there today that jump in on this Ebay dream and really bring up the cost on trying to save/preserve this gear for a museum.
I was dubbed the chosen one in the USA by many manufacturers that saw my passion for preserving climbing gear. On some Christmas's, 30+ boxes of gear would just show up at my house unannounced as a surprise. Some of these boxes had traveled from the other side of the world and contained full sets of cams, nuts, prototypes, old gear, hair from an Elephant that fell off of the trail on the way to Everest base camp, you name it! My wife stopped giving me gifts at Christmas because she felt she could not give anything greater that what she saw. In reality if she just gave me her Love, it would have outdone my entire collection, but she searched for a trinket instead to represent her Love. At that time in life the pressure of her job, two babies at home, her parents not accepting that Marty was not working and was a home husband, lead to divorce. Please do not get me wrong, My Xwife and I stayed good friends because of the kids we have together. My two kids are the greatest thing in my life. They are beautiful and I Love them! I Love them more than anything!!!
Until this walk with God I was still on Ebay riding the greed train that I had to win every trinket I did not have. I drained my bank account to nothing to obtain what? I denied my kids a new $30.00 video game exclaiming that "WE HAVE NO MONEY" and two days later I won a nothing piton that I didn't even know existed for $70.00. My collection is so huge that when I placed the newly acquired piton into my collection, it disappeared like a single blade of grass added to a one acre lawn. I have nothing now but a big pile of WHAT that is in a backpack so huge that now it is breaking my back. My cabinets are empty of food and I am denied working because of the constant accidents that keep happening. God said to just believe and all will be granted to you. From the miracles that I have seen over the past few years I do believe this is going to be true, but it is very hard to stand there with your hands outward in belief as I am feeding my family again with packs of Ramen soup.
There are many collectors out there that have this passion for collecting climbing gear and we are all falling into this Ebay trap. We are constantly outbidding each other on pieces of gear that someday will all be on display in the same place anyways. Many of these huge collectors are getting old and do not know what to do with their collection when we move on. There are so many climbers in this world that would Love to visit/travel to some Smithsonian Museum which houses the most amazing pieces of climbing history that we need to preserve. If every climber just donated 5 dollars to this building, this building would exist but instead 5 dollars is too much to ask because of this greed thing us humans enjoy wrapping ourselves around.
It blows my mind that Ken Yeager has started this museum building called the Yosemite Museum, but everybody just donates their gear and no money to him. He has to work a full time job and then try to get all of these museum artifacts together that everybody is so excited to see. Why has nobody sent him enough money to keep him concentrating on just the museum alone? The museum could be a whole Disneyland style climbing park near some real crag and rock gym with outdoor moving kayak river rides, hiking garden path and bike trails all hooked together in one. But no, my 5 hard earned dollars is for a 6 pack of beer instead, or a $100 bag of weed that will be gone in a week.
You people with money out there why do you not create this dream? Because it does not give you return of money? Many climbers are constantly attacking each other on these forms for WHAT? You all share the same passion but the egos seem to drive the common sense where in the end, none of the hatred words even mattered. I Love Chris Sharma for what he has given me in life, a hug in a photo with him. Not that he just climbed another amazing route.
I understand my mission clearly now and that I was not to become the big museum, I was entrusted by thousands as a storage unit until this museum was created. I am the "collector" chosen one yes, but to only make sure these precious items go to the correct place for all to Love and enjoy.
I need to get back to work so I do not lose my house in foreclosure. I need somewhere for my kids to live. Ken, I will be visiting you soon. I have many fantastic Yosemite museum pieces for you to share to everybody. This is better than having them just sit in a storage shed collecting dust for years.
Please climbers….just think about the dream.
Love Marty Karabin
1301 E. Weldon Ave
Phoenix, AZ 85014
Karabin714@aol.com
marty@onedollarministry.com
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2016 - 10:21pm PT
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MisterE - Thanks! post 299 June 14, 2014 on this thread has the update and a more detailed version of the opening post story above.
July 2009 is when I broke my leg and had the spiritual visions and spirits speaking in the hospital. Since that time I have met a lot of incredible people and witness miracles like…every day. I have grown since 2009 from not needing to know God, to now God being everything in my life. Every new day I wake up excited to see what God has prepared for me and I walk through it without worry. I am not writing this to convince people to believe in God, I’m just saying that this spiritual stuff is incredibly powerful and if you give it a chance and respect it, I mean put your personal heart into it, you will witness some amazing things that your entire being will want more and more of.
My 2016 new years resolution is to walk with God for the whole year. I demanded it! The first order of business was to postpone the annual April Thrash & Dangle Fest competition to 2017, a competition which I directed for 9 years. Then I put up a wall size poster board on my living room wall to study Creation. Creation in Religion, Spiritual, Alien, all of it. I wrote down everything I believed to be correct in my mind and then researched the information. The result was after 6 years of researching books to find truth my mind still created its own “protected” story. Like an idiot it simplified deep philosophy and taught upon it. I was like the professor of the class taking his own finals test, and failing it. I erased the poster board over and over as I researched my truths(?) to correct my theories and philosophies. I laugh at the pile of eraser stubble that is still growing on the floor carpet below. I am not sure if I will ever complete my Creation study, but it did open up a doorway in my mind and gave me a Key to finding peace within the massive spiritual library named “Finding Purpose.”
I am telling you this secret because once I applied it, I slipped into a place of peace. This peace is a new feeling to me and is the most incredible peace I have felt in my life. I have experienced Anointing, and being within a high level of Grace, and being directed by the Holy Spirit, Hypnotherapy euphoria, one with nature, etc, but this peace is different. All through my life I felt like I was on a mission and the mission had to be completed no matter how exhausting it was. An invisible itch that is saying “get on your feet and do it!” but never giving the answer to the question….”Do what?”
My big search for truth started July 2009 because of visions/voices and since I was raised in the Bible, I went back to the Roman Catholic church for a few years. So now I know the Roman Catholic God and I can stand on a Roman Catholic foundation and talk to others about God. Look at me I know God! But I felt that the reverent and silent RC church masses was teaching me very little of the Bible, compared to the fun television Christian churches where the minister is pacing and screaming Bible truth as the congregation is jumping up and down in the pews in wild praise. Eventually over time many other religions now serve as my foundation, as I switch around my beliefs from day to day. I am now Jewish, now Hindu, now Shaman and now Buddhist. This whole process is so I can gain more information and prove to myself through another that I know God. I am not talking to another on how I personally know God, just showing another where the information that I believe came from and if there is an argument, I have the proof to back my statements. As somebody attacks my words I can feel the aggression within myself because I am not advanced Divine text educated and stumble on my answers. I feel stupid trying to make sense out of all of this spiritual stuff because there is so much info to know and so many rules associated within.
Once I have become exhausted believing and not believing, then believing again then not believing, I find myself humbled standing on all of the Divine Texts, just to show others how educated I am and how I know that there is a God. But yet I still stumble on this foundation no matter how educated I am. Late January as I sat perplexed staring at my erased recent Creation theory, my spirit voice came through and told me that I can switch my foundation to God. To just God. God without the paper trail. God without the rules. From here God gives the answers when my foundation is attacked. So for six years I was working to join the correct religion to be recognized by God, so I could be invited to be with God when I die. So this whole time I was not necessarily being with God, I was being with the religious institutions.
To place God as my foundation I had to personally KNOW there is a God 100 percent! I don’t walk around wondering if there is a God, I have no doubt. Suddenly I am not being pushed to find “purpose” anymore! I really feel peace! Since my OP story, now All of my bills are paid, I am in great health, I was able to refinance my house so I now own my house, I love me, love my job, oldest son James graduates this week from high school as honor student, life is great! But at the same time refrigerator died, water heater died, somebody stole my identity and stole my taxes, truck is leaking fluids, and the summer AZ heat is back again. My personal quest to find God has infected many of my friends to seek greater depth in everything they do. These days my cousin Tracie has got me addicted to the Matt Kahn YouTube segments. WOW stuff, Love it!!!
I am totally psyched to have a museum in the future. My vision is to have a building large enough to house my museum and others like the Yosemite Museum, Dr, Gary Storrick, Stephane Pennequin, etc etc. The smithsonian museum of climbing and outdoor goods! Attach the museum onto a 5 million dollar rock gym with a competition wall, climbing store, bike rental shop, slack lines and picnic tables within a lazy river, etc. I have the museum gear but I still need somebody else to create the other buildings and climbing stuff. Presently I have $174 to contribute! God insists on me to continue with the museum dream and the rest will just happen!
Karabin Climbing Museum!
hands are open, always accepting donations
:)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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May 22, 2016 - 07:37am PT
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Stay with it, Marty!
Still hear from Glenn?
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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May 22, 2016 - 09:13am PT
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Friction Labs is $10.00 more than the others because Friction Labs is a "Magic chalk ball."
It doesn't sound so bad if you consider that the fair market value of "magic" is only $10.
Curt
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2016 - 03:39pm PT
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DMT - Thanks!
Bluering - Glenn and I email chatted one month ago. He is in Canada and will be traveling back to Arizona in the fall. I am very excited to see my old friend again! I have been working on a Marty paper guide to “Relationship Stress” and Glenn allowed me to use a segment of his book within my guide. I have not been in a relationship for a while but for some reason God has been sending me constant info on the subject, so I have been capturing the info and concepts in notes and now I have enough to create the guide. Yes I agree with what you are thinking….I could be out climbing some incredible route but instead God has me working to increase the Love level on this planet. Good times!
Curt - You make a great point! Magic can go further than the cash which was needed to capture the Magic!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2016 - 03:41pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2016 - 03:54pm PT
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 22, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
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Thanks Marty - BTW
Sierra takes the "hot and strong girl" to a whole new level.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 22, 2016 - 08:08pm PT
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With 7 billion souls the "love level" on this planet has been and will remain constant....go climbing.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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May 23, 2016 - 07:08am PT
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Marty,
Woah, this "spiritual" struggle of yours seems painful.
Personally, I have become so disillusioned with all forms of religion. I find very few satisfactory answers, only fantastic explanations which are un-provable, and therefore require me to "believe" in something. I guess I am realizing that it is not necessary to believe anything. Beliefs are just stories we make up (or are fed) about things we don't know, or can't know.
We all have a direct connection to the creator (or whatever you want to call it). That is the greatest gift climbing has given me - a direct connection with the spirit of this world and the core of my being.
Don't lose your connection to the Earth (or the ground, for that matter!)
Cheers!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2016 - 10:49am PT
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Reeotch - The pain of the struggle has brought me to a greater level of peace. It was worth it! I have reached a place where God no longer needs the paper trail in my life. instead of me researching to join the correct religious institution of God and God’s people, I am comfortably with God outside of the religious laws. This does not mean that religious institutions do not have their place. A persons lesson may be understanding reverence toward God, or understanding community and the energy a community can provide, gives an opportunity to be assisting or helping in Gods community, etc, etc.
On TV I recently watched an old movie named “Higher Learning,” a college movie which Ice Cube is an actor in. In the movie the kids being individual were all brilliant, but they all felt like they had to join some group to become somebody. Each one of the kids became all victims of tragic failure except for Ice Cube, who insisted that the knowledge obtained should be for a individuals growth, not just to get a passing grade for show. Ice Cube graduated at the end. Great movie!
What I have obtained by the struggle of my last six years is Faith. I no longer have to prove to others “if there is a God” or “how I know there is a God.” It doesn’t matter anymore and its their problem anyways that they struggle with their God! I gots’ the Faith! I”m dancing with the energy!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2016 - 12:08pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2016 - 03:50pm PT
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In 9th grade my older son James decided to have blue hair. It was a total surprise to me as I picked him up from school and wow, his hair was silky turquoise blue. Me being a man who encourages the wearing of face paint and tights, I thought the blue hair was the coolest thing, and it was my sons choice! So this is how my son started his high school years.
James graduated thursday night from Arcadia High School. National Honor Student, Honored Student of the Arts, and top 10 % of the class, with a scholarship to Arizona State University. Yeah I can tell you how proud I am of my son. James you believed you could do it, you didn’t take no for an answer, you set your personal goals to the highest level, and you totally deserve all of the honors you were presented with. I love you James and give you the greatest applause for this awesome achievement in your life!
The biggest THANKS goes to my Xwife Randi for James’s accomplishment. Randi’s biggest dream for the kids is for them to have the opportunity to experience college, and her encouragement through the years has paid off in a big way!
James is psyched for college at Arizona State University, which is only a half mile away from where I work, the Phoenix Rock Gym. Maybe he will work at the gym for extra cash. I can give him the special minimum wage gym tasks, you know; wash windows, clean toilets, pull chewed gum out of the bolt holes, remove used bandaids stuck to the climbing surface, clean the rental shoes, etc.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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I have been searching for more patio doors for another museum display at the Phoenix Rock Gym. This space should be large enough to display 1000 or more bolt hangers. I am psyched! But unfortunately my Home Depot source is gone and now patio doors new are basically $300.00 each. Yipe! While searching salvage yard websites I came across a listing for two doors for $100.00 in Fountain Hills AZ. I left a message and waited in silence for two days over this Memorial day weekend. Finally a text came through to pick up the doors the next morning. So my day started off by purchasing a Zermatt mountain patch on ebay. I have been salivating over the patch for months so I finally spent the $10.00 to obtain the patch. Yeah! Then drove to the beautiful Fountain Hills and met with Connie. What is interesting about the story is to my surprise the owner of the patio doors is the wife of the late Vince Bousselaire, a mountain climber who died on the Matterhorn in Zermatt.
—From the internet:
A beloved pastor who overcame cancer, then decided to place a bible at the summit of the tallest peak on each continent, died August 7, 2008 after scaling the Matterhorn in Switzerland.
Pastor Vince Bousselaire and several partners were descending from the east side of the Swiss mountain when a storm moved in. Bousselaire and Carolyn Randall fell -- both died.
"He was very special," said Bousselaire's wife, Connie. "I loved him to pieces. We were married almost 34 years. He was my friend, my buddy and I'm going to miss him."
The assistant pastor at Arvada's Faith Bible Chapel Colorado was an 11-year cancer survivor.
"He had Non-Hodgkin’s Lymphoma," his wife said.
He beat the cancer, then decided to get into shape.
"He ran marathons, went skiing and took up mountain climbing," said daughter Janelle Bazar.
He encouraged his loved ones to become healthier.
One of the goals Bousselaire set was to climb every 14'er in Colorado. After accomplishing that, he set out to climb the tallest peak on each of the seven continents. He took a bible up to each peak.
"He didn't make it all the way up to Everest because he suffered pulmonary edema and nearly died. So he had a climbing partner, who was Jewish, take the bible up to the summit of Everest for him," Connie said.
"He was a warrior," said son-in-law Aaron Bazar. "Somebody you respect."
Bousselaire's wife said she didn't like him climbing all those mountains, but added that he was so irrepressible that she couldn't stop him. "I loved him and wanted him to love life," she said.
…………………………..
the Associated Press reported that Bousselaire fell ca. 300 meters and his partner, whose rope caught on a rock, fell ca. 80 meters. The two bodies were recovered at 13,100' on the Matterhorn's east face by Air Zermatt. Bousselaire was an experienced mountain traveler, having hiked Colorado's fifty-four 14,000' peaks. He is survived by two daughters, two grandchildren, his mother and eight siblings.
…………………………………
Essentially they got caught in a storm while still at high altitude and were forced to descend onto the face of the mountain from the ridge to avoid intense electricity from what the survivors relayed to the family. After traversing the East face towards the north face to get back to the Hornli Ridge the ice broke loose under his feet and he was unable to self-arrest. There were only three climbers in their rope team though, and Carolyn had the rope tied to her. Vince was last in the northerly procession Carolyn was first and northernmost. The middle climber was 10 feet from either of them, and was able to see roughly 200 feet at the time from his indications. As they had traversed a reasonable distance the rope arced down behind Carolyn across the ice field. Vince unavoidably careened straight through it in his tragic slide, pulling Carolyn loose also. -followerz9
………………….
Connie told me that Vince fell around 1000 feet, and then she showed me his ice axe which was a Chouinard Zero blue carbon fiber shaft broken in two, only the axe head side was found. It took around 5 weeks to get Vince’s cremated ashes back to the USA. The coincidences I constantly experience are beautiful. I feel like Vince himself set this one up. Many Blessings and thanks Connie!
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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May 30, 2016 - 06:17pm PT
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That is a pretty cool story and congratulations on raising a good kid
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2016 - 11:10pm PT
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Over the past week the Three Ball Climbing company in Tempe AZ started the process of moving their shop to a new location. Three Ball makes rock climbing holds and training holds for the disciplines on the American Ninja Warrior show. I love shopping the shops that are moving! It is amazing how much stuff just goes in the trash which is museum worthy. I’m like, “Dudes Yipe, don’t think and just put the trash items in this Marty pile, and I will take it from there.” Preserving climbing history sure is a lot of work! So I monitored all trash items and two truckloads later, big smile on my face, , , mission accomplished! I scored!
Steve Dison the owner of Three Ball was totally generous and donated a bunch of stuff to the museum. The story I know is that Three Ball Climbing gets it’s name from Steve being born with three testicles. Just throwing some Three Ball trivia at you! One of the employees at Three Ball made the qualifiers and will be on the next American Ninja Warrior show. Half of the Three Ball shop is for manufacturing holds, and the other half is an advanced Ninja Warrior course. Dang these guys are built with muscles all over the place doing flips from one rope to another and doing one arm pull ups across tufa’s 18’ above the deck. They are quite dedicated to their Ninja Warrior sport! Thanks again Steve for your continuous Museum support!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2016 - 09:06pm PT
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My good friend Robert Olson with the RO Climbing Collection is moving to Hawaii for three years. Job assignment where he decided to put his house stuff into storage, and himself the wife and baby are off to Hawaii. Robert was the MC in many of the Phoenix climbing competitions and a creator of the Thrash & Dangle Fest. He is a great show person always providing the best energy for the crowd. Put a microphone in his hand and his mouth moves nonstop. I enjoyed all of the special climbing projects Robert and I did together through the years. Robert donated a crate of special climbing holds to the museum, and the other hundreds of Robert holds were sold to the Phoenix Rock Gym (sweet!).
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Marty, you are one of the core group of fully expressive and dedicated lifers.
Just when I start to feel self-conscious in my little English way.
Thanks, and much love for what you give to the community.
It is legacy.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2016 - 07:44am PT
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Aaah yes the Zermatt patch. I have about 100 patches and this patch is probably not rare or anything, I just wanted it since I have been to Zermatt. I purchased the Zermatt poster in Zermatt in 1994 while on my honeymoon. Very cool place! no gas engines are allowed in Zermatt and the train that took us there had to be pulled by chain for the last few miles. In Zermatt it seemed like every shop was a ski shop, a climbing shop, or a bar. Unfortunately I only purchased one climbing item, a carabiner, since al of the equipment that was being sold was the same as the stuff I could easily get in the USA. I was disappointed that here I was in Switzerland and I could not find any unique climbing gear. Plus the prices they had on all of the gear was outrageous. There was no rope being sold for below $300.00 and all of the other gear was also triple in price compared to the USA. Mammut ropes were the highest cost item and the rope is manufactured in Switzerland. Go figure!
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dikhed
climber
State of fugue and disbelief
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You give the guy a compliment and he just rolls on, posting more pictures of climbing holds and shitty old carabiners. Are you just talking to yourself?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2016 - 05:19pm PT
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overwatch - Thanks for the compliment!
MisterE - As always, thanks for your ongoing support!
dikhed - In the highest level of spirituality,…”Yes I am talking to myself.” (I can hear Matt Kahn chuckling…) Thanks dikhed for the laugh!
And just for fun, here is a photo of shitty old climbing holds and carabiners!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2016 - 08:40am PT
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Grivel dual gate locking karabiners
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dikhed
climber
State of fugue and disbelief
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Jun 11, 2016 - 08:49am PT
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I am glad you took it that way because that is how I meant it, as a laugh.
My whole Avatar is just a laugh obviously just look at my picture
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2016 - 09:04am PT
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dikhed - Without you being on this Supertopo site, all of these threads would just be ego fantasy stories. You are the attack element which retains and demands a deeper truth to the stories. “Always watching from the silence in great anticipation for an opportunity to raise the red flag!" I totally appreciate your visit to my message thread.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2016 - 11:10am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2016 - 11:48am PT
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Summertime again at the Phoenix Rock gym which means, daily summer camp youth groups in the mornings which kills the course setting………so we build!
Justin Wagner, owner of Planetary Climbing, brought his welding toys to the gym for a day of fun! We made tons of sparks, cut metal, made tons of noise and created a two bar pull-up bar for the workout area behind the Fang formation. Yeah! The next day I cut a section out of the back wall for Justin’s next project, welding shelves for all of the free weights etc. Good times! Jeremy Cox added a ceiling fan to the area so no more excuses….you too can become a 5.13 climber, just takes a little commitment! Or be like Sharma and strive for 5.16.
Planetary Climbing has hundreds of awesome hold shapes, volumes and specializes in training apparatuses. Planetary Climbing also builds climbing structures in home or business locations. Justin Wagner is lead course setter at Focus Climbing Center, and a guest setter at the Phoenix Rock Gym. Planetary Climbing also sponsors the Flying Zebra!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
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Other projects going on at the Phoenix Rock Gym is a wall mural being painted on the wall over the bookcases and the TV. I sketched out the design for the mural a year ago, and when we recently hired artist Stephanie Ruiz at the gym, Stephanie insisted that the mural be brought to life. It is a Dr. Seuss style outdoor scene. Most of the art is by myself and Stephanie, with assistance by singer Kat Martin, and artist Luke Wyssmann. Eventually painted in the scene will be over 300 climbers, boulderers, hikers, slack liners, etc. We have just started the painting and already it attracts the kids and leaves them mesmerized.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2016 - 01:38pm PT
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Wayne Turner has been climbing at the gym purposely sporting his mint condition Fickeroo chalk bag. He put chalk into it, faint…..he throws it on the ground, faint…..he falls onto it in the bouldering area, faint…..The Fickeroo chalk bag was made by Phoenix local hard man legend John Ficker and his wife in the late 1980s(?)/ early 1990s. When I first learned to climb, it was on thin granite face routes put up by John Ficker. A Ficker route requires a still mind for success, or you take the 50 foot whipper! I had a Fickeroo rope bag and for its time it was the best rope bag on the market especially for a speed soloing down weight. I dragged that rope bag up and down over 40,000 feet of rock face and it lasted over 10 years. Wayne donated his KONG figure 8 to the Museum, but he still sports his chalk bag in style!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2016 - 02:37pm PT
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Another experienced climber falls. On May 15th 2016, Scott Early was the climber on top rope climbing up when he fell near the top and the gear did not hold. My interest with Scott is not being the detective finding out the accident details, but more his spiritual experience of this situation from the day of the accident to six months from now, so I visited him in the hospital.
Fall happens Sunday on the Main Wall, Oak Flat East in the Queen Creek Canyon area near Superior AZ. Top rope gear was set up on existing bolts and this was the third route the climbers set up. Scott fell 30 feet and luckily lands in a flat area in between the boulders. From the moment Scott fell he does not remember falling or hitting the ground and was unconscious for around 4 minutes. Helicopter single line took him over to the Warm Up Boulders area, then a second helicopter flew him to a hospital in Mesa. Scott now suffers from a L4 vertebra fracture, shattered heels and feet, and a fractured sternum. The sternum has been repaired and the vertebra has been repaired but his feet are still too swelled up for surgery, but he is out of the hospital and is home. A gofundme web page has been set up under “Scott Early’s medical bills.”
To me it looks like climber failure since none of the gear is broken. Still no word on what exactly happened, but for now better to positively concentrate on the 6+ months of healing over looking for more reasons to be upset.
When I went to visit Scott in the hospital, I felt I needed to bring him something cool so I brought along the greatest book overall, “The Vertical World of Yosemite” by Galen Rowell. This book was donated to me by Steve Sales and he said “it is a book that needs to be in every museum.” So here it is thursday evening and the Karabin Museum now has no Vertical World book. Friday comes along and I get a Facebook post from Dana Hollister, who is a old school climbing legend going back to the Stonemaster era. Dana is inquiring if I have a book named “the Vertical World of Yosemite” in the museum. Like what a totally wild coincidence! I feel like there are climber spirits at work and they are insisting on the book being in the Museum. Dana goes on to tell me that the book is signed by Galen Rowell and by Warren Harding. Also Dana has personal letters from Warren Harding to add to the Museum.
“So listen well and give and you will be rewarded greater.”
—This story is an example of this spiritual understanding?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2016 - 03:43pm PT
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South Mountain Park/Preserve
On the south end of the city of Phoenix AZ is South Mountain Park/Preserve, a mountain that is covered in boulders. Since the beginning rangers were allowing climbing, then not allowing climbing, then allowing climbing again, then not allowing climbing. The Pima Canyon wash was created for bouldering! It is wonderful! At the end of 2009 climbing was accepted in Pima Canyon through meetings with the rangers and council members. A MK South Mtn climbing guide was published January 2010 to keep everybody on the same page. Over the years climbers enjoyed Pima canyon with little confrontations with the rangers. The rangers are totally cool, but they carry the rules book. Many years have passed and now climbing on South Mtn is being questioned. Meetings have started again. The good thing is that a public input process was put in place and everybody can be heard as the rules book is being written. The next big meeting is in the fall. For now I am creating a guide to give to the council, which educates them on “what is climbing and bouldering.” Curt Shannon from the Access Fund attended and Laurel and Manny from the Concerned Climbers of AZ attended. These planning meetings are also about future trail usage for hikers and mtn bikers.
MK Facebook Post:
Tonight was the second of two South Mtn usage plan meetings. The first order of business is to get climbing recognized as a user. Second is to recognize the areas that are already being enjoyed by climbers, and legally be allowed to climb there. I took their planning map, my coloring pens, and 1 1/2 hours later, we are now user recognized. The rangers totally love this climbing statement and probably will frame it and hang it in their office! Message Delivered!!! So for the “Recognizing the Areas” portion, we need all good vibes from every climber, in Hope that our South Mtn climbing areas will all be included in the new User Plan. If you have recommendations for South Mtn, better send it like NOW to the SM planning group or rangers station because the rules are about to be set. I give a big applause to the South Mtn planning Group for including public input throughout this decision process!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2016 - 03:16pm PT
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So I must still have a big sign over my head stating “shit on me!” I am working through this years identity theft, now have two tooth root canals needed, 116 degrees and no air conditioning in the truck and now the windows won’t roll down, and today I discovered why my computer has always been a pain in the butt for me. I have been trying to purchase Moses Tomahawks for over two years but never receive a return mail from them. The email message always said “sent,” so it must have gone through. Wrong! AOL has two ways of getting on to their site, just go to AOL or use Safari to go to AOL. I always use the Safari AOL since the emails are broken into departments. The AOL way leaves all of the emails in one listing. When I get onto a company website and contact the mfg, their mail always goes through the AOL way, and not the Safari AOL way. What was happening is for the last 7 years, none of my mail which I sent through the AOL way was ever sent.
I contacted a AOL tech today which looked at my computer and said it was the network that was hacked, not AOL. I had over 700 running programs going, 743 of which I didn’t install into my computer. Maybe some viruses came through when my kids ordered video games. 5 of the viruses were undetected by Norton etc and they were programs that collected passwords, and all emails I sent out also were cc’d to the hackers without it showing. Good Times! Somebody outside of my computer also changed many of my locked passwords linking them to programs. So when the tech was able to unlock my regular AOL mail system, 2047 emails that I thought were sent in the last 7 years were never sent. But the computer said ….ding…”message delivered.”
So if anybody out there is upset at me for not returning their emails………………
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2016 - 03:16pm PT
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Post 420.....cough!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2016 - 05:52am PT
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2016 Summer OR Show
Its time again for the summer 2016 Outdoor Retailers Show in Salt Lake City, Utah. Yeah!!! Once again I have partnered up with Omega Pacific Inc and they have allowed me a section of wall space for the display in their show booth. Thank you so much Omega Pacific for your ongoing museum support. Another huge THANKS goes to Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum for his assistance with the display and his ongoing support with the Karabin Climbing Museum. I am proud that the Nuts Museum is a part of this awesome Nuts display! This years display theme is “Mixed Nuts” and the display shows around 100 different nuts along with photos and historical information. If you are at the show, check out the Mixed Nuts display and please give a thanks to Omega Pacific Inc for supporting climbing history. The display is set up to be attached to a white slat wall system.
For this years show I created Mixed Nuts business cards so I can hand them out to everybody which will direct them to the display. I hope I don’t go too crazy with the cards but I already know they will be obnoxiously everywhere! I’m Psyched!
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Coach37
Social climber
Philly
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Jul 28, 2016 - 08:17am PT
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That's a lot of stuff man!
OCD can be a wonderful thing.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jul 28, 2016 - 09:57am PT
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And HAPPY BIRTHDAY, too !!
Curt
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Jul 28, 2016 - 02:45pm PT
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Looks great Marty, can't wait to stop by and see it next week!
Eric
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jul 28, 2016 - 03:15pm PT
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Ditto that! See ya in sh#t lake salty!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2016 - 04:56pm PT
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Before I get to the 2016 Outdoor Retailers Show review, I want to catch up on a few things first.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2016 - 04:57pm PT
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June 27, 2015 my cousin Larissa got married to her groom Nicholas. I was there mainly for crowd support but just before the rehearsal dinner my sister noticed that I brought along my zebra camera, and she stated, “that camera is being put to work, move it!” We arrived at the church to meet the Priest and the Priest first told me that since I was not a part of the hired wedding camera crew, I had limited access so keep my distance. But then I made a climbing comment and it just so happened that he just got back from climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, and we fell into a great conversation which ended in him saying, “you for sure have full access to my church!” I felt like I was kid running around with my friend Jesus and we filmed everything!!! It was so much fun!!! I was allowed to use all of the wedding photos in my movie and the movie became a Christmas gift to all the wedding party peoples and relatives. I cut 100 movies total. So far out of all of the movies I have created, this “Forever Yours” movie is my greatest. Songs range from “Going to the Chapel,” to Skrillex “Cinema.”
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2016 - 05:14pm PT
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C4AC Homestead
Mid 2015, the Access Fund purchased a limestone climbing area in southern AZ named the Homestead. Yeah!!! Improvements to the road into the crag are in the process, and in future years maybe a 2WD road can be constructed. The Homestead is an amazing climbing area which has tons of routes with runnels and hanging tufas. The AZ climbing community wanted to show its support to the Access Fund by creating a Homestead fundraiser named C4AC, or Climb for a Cause, Homestead. Tony Cadoran created a 12 hour climb-a-thon hosted by the Phoenix Rock Gym where climbing teams of four would climb all night raising extra monies to donate to the cause. The team who climbed the most roped routes will be awarded. Tony created a Homestead photo booth, a Raffe ticket items table, and in addition to the climbing event I was able to gather 20+ climbing gear and history items and created a silent auction. In the lead area climbers set up hammocks and porta ledges, but everybody ended up climbing through the night. Fun moments were night climbing by headlamp, and running through the Homestead bouldering traverse which was a work of course setting art for sure!!! At the end of the event, MC Robert Olson and myself called out for final bids and ran the awards ceremony. Blacksmith Paul Dief (PRG gym owner) created really cool climbing trophies for the winning team. The overall results are:
$5780.00 Team Fundraising
$2160.00 Silent Auction,
$281.00 Raffle sales,
$178.00 Additional donations
— $8399.00 was the Grand total raised for the Access Fund.
Thanks teams:
Team Tempe Dream Team: $1,450
Team Spicy Salsa Salad Toss (1 & 2): $1,080
Team SCAB Prime!: $1,050
Team All Night 5.9: $700
ASU Climbing Club: $600
Team Scraps!: $500
Hiking Shack Pups N’ Suds: $400
Nearly 14 vertical miles were climbed. Tempe Dream Team (Focus Climbing Center) were total mutants still climbing 5.12s eleven hours later. Incredible endurance guys. I bow to your dominating strength!
Thanks to all of the sponsors that helped make this event a great success!!!!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2016 - 09:41pm PT
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At Christmas time I received a box covered in duct tape with a gift from Tony Cadoran inside. He felt bad that he over bid me in the Homestead C4AC silent auction, when he knew that I was hot for that Access Fund pin. Tony didn’t know that just after the Homestead C4AC event, the Access Fund sent me the gold pin as a donation to the museum. I was glad to have the Beth Rodden signed La Sportiva hat with AF pin, but I recycled it to gain more monies for the Access Fund in the upcoming Queen Creek Boulder Comp #3 (QCBC). Thanks Tony for the energy! Big thanks back to Tony for all of his volunteer dedication to the climbing community.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2016 - 09:43pm PT
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--Facebook Post
February 20, 2016. Saturday morning we had a memorial for John Scott at the Lost Wall in Upper Devils Canyon. We installed a plaque at the base of the route “Projectiles,” which now the route name has been changed to “Great Scott.” The new name is reflected in the new Upper Devils Canyon #4 MK climbing guide. Big THANKS to Carolyn Langlois for making this memorial happen. John lead the route Projectiles on February 23, 2014, and while at the base of the route a rock fell from the top and killed John on the spot. Thanks to everybody who was able to attended the memorial. Please everybody, be careful out there!
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Upper Devils Canyon - Lost Wall, Superior AZ. I had the honors of installing the plaque for the memorial. The route Projectiles was first ascended by Harvey Delos Reyes and Marty Karabin in January 1995. The new name for the route is “Great Scott.” What is interesting is that Harvey, who scored the very first lead on the route, goes by the nickname “Scott.” Carolyn did a good job putting the memorial together. Unfortunately she a few weeks ago broke her ankle while canyoneering. She just had surgery one week ago.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2016 - 09:42pm PT
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QCBC III, April 2, 2016
Queen Creek Boulder Comp III was awesome! Held at Oak Flat campground near Superior AZ, and the comp area was in Euro Dog Valley. Over 100 competitors attended and donated their skin and sweat for a place on the podium. 8 hour comp time and hundreds of problems to choose from. Top 8 problems for score. Perfect weather day! Big thanks to Tony Cadoran for directing the event, Kevin Fahey for assisting in the event and on the microphone, Greg Varela for course setting and rules with all of the boulder problems, and the many many others that volunteered their time to make this event happen! Additional thanks to Robert Olson and me for being the MC during the Homestead live auction, and calling out the final scores! Robert and I raised an additional $800+ toward the Homestead climbing area which was donated to the Access Fund.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2016 - 10:07pm PT
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Beta Boulder Blast IV, April 16, 2016
Time again for the Beta Boulder Blast held at Beta Bouldering Gym in Flagstaff AZ. Since I am old and in my 50s now, I play a different game at these comps and try to climb 75% of the routes offered in the comp. This year my performance was low and I only sent 28 of the problems which was only half of what they offered. I need to up my game! Top 5 for score, 2 1/2 hour comp time. Only three categories are offered, Beginner, advanced, and mutant. So already all of the local V10 climbers jump into the Advanced category making it almost impossible to win, but the climbing is great and I support climbing comps weather I place or not. I am still sending V6/V7 and I am lead setter at the Phoenix Rock Gym, so the beginner category is out of the question so I am in the “supporting the comp” category. The overall comp finishes with a keg of beer, and a finals male and female round for everybody to cheer. In the raffle I scored a Joshua Tree salve travel kit for the museum. I am psyched!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 02:27pm PT
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I went back to check up on how Scott Early is healing from his climbing accident, and he is walking!! ......(this is where the drums go crazy with the solo, and balloons and confetti fall from the ceiling).
Charleston Heston speaking, "and...... HE IS WALKING!!!" 38 steps but getting there with still two very inflamed heels. Scott finished reading the Galen Rowell book, "The Vertical World of Yosemite," which should inspire anybody who even breathes climbing!!! and the new book I gave him is the Warren "Batso" Harding book, "Downward Bound: A Mad Guide To Rock Climbing." On this visit I supplied Scott with the large evolv chalk and evolv tape and evolv brush, so Scott will be supplied for his return to sending in the Masters Division! (repeat of Drums, confetti and balloons again!)
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 02:30pm PT
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At some time Black Diamond made aluminum chopsticks. Somehow I missed out on that score.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 02:41pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 02:58pm PT
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Black Rock Bouldering Gym, AZ
Neo and I went and checked out the new Black Rock bouldering gym in Phoenix which opened one week ago. Wow, air conditioning and only five miles from my estate. It was fun to play on all of the different climbing angles, and donating some of my skin to the new giant colorful holds. I climbed 25 problems V3 and below! Yeah! evolv in the house! Representing!!! I believe Louie Anderson designed and built the gym.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 20, 2016 - 03:51pm PT
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Marty, thank you for all you have done for our climbing community .
I've visited Queen Creek in the 80s was able to climb 'Volcanic Panic' before it was blasted.
When would that have been '91'. Or 92?
And it is a beautiful plaque! That said, sorry I felt it and wrote what follows
( I'm sure you'll see the slippery slope, and given this next gen of climbers coming out ...)
I'm absolutely worthy of the desecration that a manorial plaque provides in a wilderness setting.
We all are!
That is why we should, as old men, resist the urge to Phook up,
children learn from what they see us do.
**offensive hyperbole.... for why?
I hope some younger similarly offended
Pry bar wielding bolt spraying juvenile retro bolts your routes and removes the plaque.
( THAT IS JUST SO WRONG! Im sorry, but to just delete it would deny the ernest feeling)
We must be good examples for the climbers who will be in charge, Stewardship has got to start where the climbers mostly now get their start, In the gym.
I'm sorry but it is short sighted where will it end if we tolerate all fixed memorials !
Again it is one opinion, but the addition of such things, Can & has threatened access.
When I die, I want my memorial plaque afixed to the Triple Cracks on the Shield !
That's okay with everyone - I'm sure.
End of original post
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** REPLY
Ho man Im three(2) hours ahead but that is no excuse. Ive recently seen the way the gym crowd now opens routes. Top down with two pry bars and a tag line to pull off, on purpose, good holds & gear placements .
I had to try hard to explain that a flexing flake is a learning experience.
The crowd is against non-destructive climbing practices.
It is safer, they say, to strip a route. Pry & hammer off holds, then climb on what remains.
The thinking is the rock is the victim,not a climber or his belay partner, ( often a non- climbing friend )
It is a hard argument to fight
.
One I will never win so the crags and rocks that I've climbed on will stay unreported by me.
I know that means the places will be renamed and taken credit for by others.
When I posted this, I was just back from a 'secret' crag , secret because Ken Nichols and his sycophants still hold a lot of sway in some east coast states.
Two states, only, but if you are over 30yrs old, your lumped in with his followers.
No matter that all the dedicated gear anchors, that they were hanging off at this cliff are mine.
(10 of them, with trigger-less cams, and pins) Ive never chopped a bolt and don't think that I will.
I want to see the climbs I've climbed bolted and climbed on. Just not destroyed.
The person who was the main culprit was working under the assumption that the route were top ropes, he was going to, and may still take credit for the place.
Thus my lashing out.... You did not deserve to be maligned and I apologize.
I think I took one picture of this choss pile, showing the 2 foot square, flake that was removed, by hammer & pry bar, while standing one a ledge 6 feet off the ground, The flake was solid.
Changing the start, (raising the difficulty) on a 1/2 pitch wonder in the woods, that was protectable with gear, into what I think every seasoned climber would see as a chipped route... ..
MARTY! Im A big fan of your thread, and you are a treasure .
I give your guide book (and vision)some credit for my happiness.
Because of the wonderful things that you have done, things that you pioneered ,
opened, that we enjoyed on an other wise harsh climbing trip.
I Married the women, I took to Queen creek.
I was amazed at the fact that you would endorse the plaque.
you seemed to have missed my very sincere,( and separated for emphasis.)
mea copa...that I added after I'd calmed down.
I don't want to delete my -so wrong it hurts - posts I learn from them.
I was Absolutely contrite
You and the Arizona Community have Had another stunning loss lately. Ho man! I'm not sure what to say . . . this makes it so much worse.
they share The Last Name !
On July 15th Jim Scott of Tucson AZ age 55 went to sleep and didn't wake up.
Jim Scott who often rubbed people the wrong way on this site was always happy to climb with those he might have disagreed with or teased. To be sure whatever he posted online he would have said to your face, with Jim you always knew where you stood.
Jim was a major route developer and was involved in first ascents from his early years of climbing in Montana until he died. On Mount Lemmon he was involved in almost 500 new routes. In the last 7 months he developed a small new Limestone area SE of Tucson, created an area for beginning climbers on Mt Lemmon and added a number of climbs in other areas on Mt Lemmon. In the last 7 weeks Jim helped create a new area called the Headstones with five towers from 50 to 180 feet tall. This area below the Boneyard now has 38 routes from 5.9- to 5.12. Many days of brushing, trundling tons of loose rock, marking bolt placements then drilling them up. As always Jim was more than happy to let someone who just happened to show up that day tag the FA.
Jim Scott has been a major part of the Southern AZ climbing scene for 20 years. He has climbed more routes in southern than anyone I know. His great sense of humor, giving nature, love of craft beer, and endless enthusiasm will be sorely missed by all who knew him.
Eric (fazio) Rhicard - Jim Scott who often rubbed people the wrong way, on the Web,(sic) was always happy to climb with those he might have disagreed with or teased. To be sure whatever he posted online he would have said to your face, with Jim you always knew where you stood.
Jim was a major route developer and was involved in first ascents from his early years of climbing in Montana until he died. On Mount Lemmon he was involved in almost 500 new routes. In the last 7 months he developed a small new Limestone area SE of Tucson, created an area for beginning climbers on Mt Lemmon and added a number of climbs in other areas on Mt Lemmon. In the last 7 weeks Jim helped create a new area called the Headstones with five towers from 50 to 180 feet tall. This area below the Boneyard now has 38 routes from 5.9- to 5.12. Many days of brushing, trundling tons of loose rock, marking bolt placements then drilling them up. As always Jim was more than happy to let someone who just happened to show up that day tag the FA.
Jim Scott has been a major part of the Southern AZ climbing scene for 20 years. He has climbed more routes in southern than anyone I know. His great sense of humor, giving nature, love of craft beer, and endless enthusiasm will be sorely missed by all who knew him.
Eric F-Rhicard
Aug 9, 2016
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
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Gnome,
I clearly understand your memorial message, but why do you add, "I hope some juvenile retro bolts your routes?"
You are the only one offended by the plaque, and you never have even been to the Lost Wall. Fun Saturday afternoon sitting on your couch spitting on people for fun?
However your comment does raise a question about memorial plaques being placed in climbing areas in remembrance of the climber that died while climbing. With the John Scott plaque, I knew of John but never climbed with him and I can’t say he was even a friend of mine. He died at a route I established and I am the area guidebook author so at the time it seemed the correct thing to do. Me being heavily experienced with drilling bolts made me the plaque installer. My overall compassion toward the accident makes me personally feel that I did the correct thing. The Lost Wall at Upper Devils canyon is hardly climbed at all, that’s if you can even find it. It is on National Forest land that may be lost in the Oak Flat copper mining land trade issue. If the plaque was being installed in a major climbing area with high traffic I would have been opposed to installing it.
In Zermatt the trail to the Matterhorn begins at the memorial climbers cemetery (Which is fascinating by the way!)
In movies I have seen a large Everest basecamp climbers memorial.
(two examples of high traffic climbing areas with many memorials to view before the adventure begins.
Many Blessings to John Scott.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 12:39pm PT
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The hook display board is one of 4 hook boards overall that will soon be on display at the Phoenix Rock Gym, AZ. On the display is a Cassin Ice Hook that I have searched for with no luck finding it. I recently received a gift from Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum who was able to locate the hard to find, "Cassin Gancio Da Ghiaccio." It is a super cool hook! On this hook board is missing the newer BD Spectre Ice Hook and Larger BD Rock Pecker piton hook. The other half of my Chouinard hooks are presently in the Chouinard display at the AZ Hiking Shack.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 03:46pm PT
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It's 5:00pm on Tuesday August 2nd and all looks calm, so I headed to Kinko's copy center to copy a few pictures for tomorrows OR show in Utah. At 6:00pm suddenly a storm charged in and dumped 2" of rain on my house in Phoenix in 45 minutes time. I took the side streets home from Kinko's since all of the roads were parking lots with nobody driving anywhere due to the flooding. I knew my house was flooding so I got home quickly and took this picture of the water starting its advance into my house. The rain water outside of my house was 8" above my house foundation, and the entire subdivision was a lake from one end of the street to the other. Good times, no time to panic just time for decisions. Since I was to be on a plane to the OR show in 8 hours and my house interior is soaked, I started with the razor knife chopping my drenched carpets in sections and dragging them to the side of my house. Half of my house filled with water but after the evening battle, the mess was cleaned, many fans were positioned in my house, and I was on that plane to Utah!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 03:47pm PT
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2016 Outdoor Retailer Show Review, Summer Market, August 3-6
— 120 photos
Screetch….brakes are on. I was witnessing some manufacturers telling people that no photos are allowed to be taken at the show. And other manufacturers were insisting that photos are taken of their product and their athlete talent. I am not sure if this is forcing the purchase of a show media pass thing or what. In this day of the cell phone and everybody having a camera with them, I feel that it is ridiculous that a manufacturer brings to the show precious prototypes and displays them to the public, and then arrests anybody who attempts to shoot a photo anywhere near their booth. On top of that cameras are shown and sold at the show. On the photos I am showing in this review, I personally asked each manufacturer their permission before shooting the photos. (exception: three overall show pics).
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Yes it’s time again for the OR show!!! Yeah!!! Location: Salt Palace in Salt Lake City, Utah. For this years show I was solo for the first day, then Neo (Nicholas Oxentenko) and Jaime Gangi joined me for the remaining three days. There is so much to see at the show and this year there appears to be a lot more people in the isles than in the past. For the manufacturers sake hopefully the crowds in the isles are Buyers. My show title is a representative Buyer for the Arizona Hiking Shack/AHS Rescue (and many other hats).
The first order of business is setting up the Karabin Climbing Museum in the Omega Pacific Inc booth. This years display is titled “Mixed Nuts,” which displays around 100 different climbing nuts accompanied with photos and historical information. Once again the Karabin Museum teamed up with Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum in Corsica and created this awesome display. Stephane is the KING of Nuts and Cams and is the best resource for passive protection information. Thanks Stephane, you totally rock!!!!! Thank you so much Omega Pacific for your museum support over the years!!!!! Michael Lane was having appendix issues and couldn’t attend the show so my main Omega Pacific contacts were Marty Hiester and Brandon Murphy. Thanks Marty and Brandon for your impeccable hospitality!!! Big THANKS also to Omega Pacific for allowing us space in their storage closet which served as the museum base camp. If you attended the show and made a guess on how many Stoppers were in the Omega Pacific pickle jar, I was the first to guess ‘0’, because Omega Pacific produces Wedgies not Stoppers. The final correct amount of Wedgies in the jar was 2,324 and the win went to Michael@Backcountry.com (guessed 2500). Now back to the crowded hallways!
The first climbing superstar I bumped into was Hans Florine, same as the last few shows. However I couldn’t contain him yet for a signature since he was busy running around getting his show game plan in order. The fastest man on stone is tough to contain! For this show I arrived with no game plan except for catching up with old friends, and experiencing the most of the show. I looked at my two open hands and let God direct me where I needed to be, so I wandered over to the evolv booth to start my show off with a hug from Chris Sharma.
Best choice of food samples
Outside of the Salt Palace is the Pavilion tents where many manufacturers are displaying their products. The Pavilion #1 tent is where the majority of the power food samples are served to the public. This taste testing spree of hundreds of samples serves as lunch for one of the days for the museum crew. For this year I did a shout out to Neo and Jaime to rate their top three foods that excited their tastebuds….. and the results are in! #1 choice for Marty and Neo is Natures Bakery for their many flavors of Fig Bars. The fig bars are so awesome I am working on a sponsorship since I can consume these by the cases!
#1 food choice from Jaime is Navitas Naturals, especially for their Cacoa, Hemp and Maca nut bars. Navitas Naturals is Marty’s #2 choice.
#2 food choice for Jaime is Yerba Mate. Jaime is a connisseur of fine brews and is also a investor in coffee and beer companies. She knows her drinks!
#2 food choice for Neo is Gorilly Goods for their Original Fruit and Nut snacks. “Just raw fruits, nuts, and seeds packaged with a commitment to be the best snack-food choice you can make.” “Do good for yourself, for others, and for the world….We do it together.” Marty’s #3 choice is Gorilly Goods.
#3 choice for Neo is Bakers Mills Kodiak Cakes. Neo is all about the pancake mixes and he specifically comes to the show for pancake mix, go figure! I personally think sticker collecting is way more important than the pancake mix sampling. But Neo has a point, the Kodiak Cakes are totally awesome! Jaime #3 food choice is Natures Bakery for their Fig Bars. So in this OR Summer 2016 show, Natures Bakery is the most favored by the museum crew. Big applause, whistles and screams!!!
While I am on the food subject, I found myself everyday returning to the Steamboat Springs Sweetwood Cattle Company Beef Jerky booth. I personally avoid eating beef, but I ate so many of these samples at the show that there are probably two less cows in the world now because of me, sorry cows!
On my business list I had a meeting with Clif Bar since I was in search of two Clif flavors that are hard to find: Apricot and Banana Nut Bread. At first I was told that they did not have those flavors at the show, and I wasn’t surprised since the retail stores are also missing only those two flavors, besides the seasonal flavors. So as I left the Clif Bar booth with my shoulders shrugged and face pouted, I notice a case of Apricot hidden amongst the other flavors. It was like balloons and confetti suddenly dropped from the ceiling as I glided back to the front counter with the Apricot score in hand. But this score had to be not just one sample, but the whole case. So I arranged to pick up the case on the last day of the show. So on the last show day, Clif Bar totally surprised me as they presented to me a case of Banana Nut Bread as well. A Clif Bar representative made a special trip to the show to deliver the Banana Nut Bread for the museum. I am totally psyched for having the triple monopoly: tasted all flavors, have a wrapper from each bar, and have the cardboard cases of each flavor. Thanks Clif Bar for the fun!!!
#1 show beer glass
Wow I wish Robert was here to give the beer glass review because I was not impressed with this years beer glass selection. This was also the first year that no glasses were free (which I don’t mind paying the $5 - $10 in support, and I’m only after the glass, not the beer). It was show day three and the winning beer glass had not surfaced yet, so Jaime and I looked outside of the box to at least have one glass in the review. We both loved the 4 cup mountain set from a company named United by Blue, and that became our beer glass best. But then it was bested by La Sportiva. I was walking by the La Sportiva booth when suddenly my La Sportiva girlfriend exclaimed with a smile that she had something cool for me!!! Sure enough it was the winning beer glass!!! What was outdoing the beer glass was the proud smile on the La Sportiva’s reps face that she found me in the crowd of 70,000+ people.
Manufacturers Booths
The artist in me has to give a shout out to all of the manufacturers at the show, and how creative they are on how they display their goods in their booths. The North Face for example has a huge booth, and it is so exciting to be in it that I may give up my V2 boulder project, and go climb Everest!!!!
The Royal Robbins booth was awesome!!! The message of the booth was centered on the climbing hero Royal Robbins. All around and throughout the Royal Robbins booth was Royals climbing history, gear, achievements, photos and more. I give a huge applause to the Royal Robbins team for putting this great historic display together. The inside news is that Liz Robbins is working with the company again. As a bonus for me I was given a Royal Robbins shirt hanger for the museum! Sweet!!! (Next show I will go after the pants hanger so I will have the set!)
The Osprey booth is a wonderful campsite complete with camp fire, seats, a Score Four game, and fun. The booth is continually interactive with people, sales reps, and fun free schwag give aways. The girl in the photo with the big smile is super friendly, but is also worn out from me begging to have the Osprey Score Four game for the museum. Someday…..
This year I got a better look at the Maxim booth and how they constructed it and it is a work of art. Whoever came up with the layout design is a true artist.
I have to give a shout out to my sponsor evolv and their really cool booth. I like the long bar counter that allows more open room and gives the booth a welcoming feeling. I love the Ashima Shiraishi poster (left side of photo) where she is climbing and her shadow is the ‘USA Climbing’ symbol.
Best new climbing product at the show
This years show appeared to be all about rope grabbing devices, and the newest device that was on my mind was the Wild Country Revo. It takes a little more to set up than a GriGri device, but its advantage is that it locks in both directions. Listed as: The first Bi-Directional assisted locking belay device. It was fun to toy around with the Revo at the show, but I want one to further test in the great outdoors. My #1 show new product choice goes to the Wild Country Revo.
Best Manufacturers catalog
Let me first say that I love all of the manufacturers catalogs so big applause to all of the manufacturers! In this category I am seeking the catalog that will become the future collectible, the cult classic, and the prize goes to E9. E9 had a very small booth showing clothing at the show, but it was the warmest booth overall. In a way as they held large smiles, I feel like they only understood a few of the words I was speaking, but they fully understood my museum message and they totally broke out with their homemade creations. I am blown away by how much heart E9 put into their silly catalogs, which are silly to the point of being major art classics! Pirates Gone Climbing, Boulderboy, and especially the small “Climbing wear built with art catalog” is creatively cut out like Martha Stewart made it. Big applause to E9 and their catalogs, HOWEVER…….. they almost got second to the 2017 Red Chili catalog book, and for one reason: I searched for over a half hour in the E9 catalogs and could not find any contact info or anything about them. I personally feel that a company should make itself available for the customer. Show buyers would be more comfortable doing business if the manufacture of the goods shows they have a solid location, and they advertise it. E9 was also showing a new bouldering brush that will be soon on the market.
The Red Chili 2017 catalog book is beautiful! Great catalog Stefan Glowacz!
My evolv teammates Robert Olson and Justin Wagner couldn’t make it to the show, so they still represented in the photo their team evolv colors. The photo was eventually moved to the main shoe display for the rest of the show. I totally love that evolv photo! And for all of the other evolv athletes out there, Marty Justin and Robert were at the show representing in style. “This tactic for sure gives us lifetime sponsorship!”
At the 2015 OR summer show I had the Edelrid Draco hanger in my hands, but they needed to keep it as a sample. The Edelrid Draco hanger is one of the top five items I really want to obtain at this 2016 show. This year Edelrid had extra hangers in their booth and even another surprise, a Dry Tool Holds (SS bracket) used for ice climbing try tooling in rock gyms. The Dry Tool Hold bracket is totally awesome and a unique addition to the museum for sure! Big THANKS Edelrid!!!
Since I have almost every Black Diamond catalog, obtaining the 2017 workbook was also one of my top five on my list. If for some reason I could not obtain it, I had two other store owners at the show as insurance to make that happen. The paparazzi never sleeps! Thanks Black Diamond for your support!
Last year at the 2015 summer OR show I noticed that Five Ten had round “poker chip” looking stealth rubber discs, which serve as shoe rubber samples for the Five Ten sales peoples. I tried to obtain a set at that show but was denied. So game on again at this 2016 show and the Poker Chip hunt was on! I was surprised that I scored the item so easily, but the red disc in the 2015 show, which was the most attractive one to me, was missing. Five Ten is still showing their Marathon shoe which has the red rubber so the game is still on for me! Yes!
And whats this? A FIXE catalog in the Five Ten booth? Yes Five Ten has returned to the bolting world by now distributing FIXE hardware. The FIXE hangers have a new logo and info stamp on them. I also noticed in the catalog that Fixe has a new Extractor Treflex nut tool.
I surprised Lynn Hill with a Lynn Hill phone card that is around 22 years old as she becomes the first person to free the Nose! In the magazine photo Lynn is climbing in a Snowbird comp in the early days.
I recently noticed that Upper Deck Goodwin Champions came out with a set of 2016 Sasha Digiulian trading cards. By luck and through many different sellers, I believe I have the full set. I brought them to the show to get them signed by Sasha, but she was out of the country climbing 5.14s. The Memorabilia card has a pink piece Sasha’s shirt (I believe), and the Memorabilia premium card has a piece of fabric from a Krieg chalk bag, and is 1/8” thick. Only 8 wood cards are made (Old Judge), only 16 shiny cards are made (Magician), and only 25 green border cards are made (Lady Luck). In the photo is missing the green border/black card, which is presently in the mail.
I finally caught up with Hans Florine at his book signing and he signed a bunch of stuff for me. Over the years I have bumped into Hans dozens of times and I got to know Hans the family man, and he is super cool! Big applause! I have found five different Allen & Ginter’s Topps 2010 Hans Florine cards so far, and have a extra set to send to Hans……..it will be his choice if he signs his own cards. Hmmm…I wonder if Hans will donate a pair of his old smelly Nose shoes to the museum……Hmmmm
I also was looking for Alex Honnold at the show but couldn’t find him. Upper Deck Goodwin Champions created a set of Alex Honnold cards in 2013. So far I have found six different ones. I am not sure what the fabrics are in the Memorabilia and Dual Memorabilia cards. On the way home from the show, Jaime showed me a photo of Alex Honnold being at the show with Hans Florine. Alex evaded my entire paparazzi staff……..dang he’s good!
I have a set of Katie Brown cards as well. Produced by Upper Deck Goodwin Champions in 2013. I am not sure what item Katie donated to be in her Memorabilia card. Recently I scored the really cool Red Magician Katie Brown card where only 13 cards were made.
Even NEO created his own business card for the show. “Badass Mountain Man”
OMG its Kevin Jorgeson!!! I silently weaved through the climbing product displays and trapped my prey within its sponsors booth. With Sharpie forward the superstars can do nothing but surrender. The Paparazzi never sleeps! I brought along this amazing photo of Kevin and I together at the 2015 Reel Rock Tour preview show. Kevin gladly signed it and gave it back to me. I glanced at it a few times, and then again, and then I really looked at it wondering where he signed it, (Laugh). When I found it I was like, whaaaat. Hold the phone!!!! Wow, he gave me a low energy signature. Kevin Jorgeson…..(pause) ”The man whom no mountain can stand in front of.” (pause) “Where all mens balls turned to pebbles, Kevin continued to climb on!” My hero and the hero of millions of others, has “L.E.S,”…A low Energy Signature. In case you can’t find the signature, it’s in the upper right corner of the photo.
So lets look at a few other signatures that may serve as a “H.E.S,”…High Energy Signature. I worn the viewers that these signatures were made by experienced signature specialists who know how to use a Sharpie. Boom!
And lets see how the Ambassador of rock lays down his energy sig! Boom!!!
So I wandered over to the Edelrid booth where Tommy Caldwell was signing posters; of Tommy doing some amazing sick crazy wild climbing thing of course! He sat there like Sean Connery with a pipe. Gazing distant, and reflecting aloud his wild adventurous tales to the masses (I think there were two people in the poster line).
It was good to see my old friend Sean, I mean Tommy, and I shared with him my concerns with Kevin’s low energy signature. I asked if maybe the Dawn Wall was not enough of a challenge for Tommy and Kevin, and maybe the Dawn Wall ascent could be bettered? In my mind Kevin was already at his max, especially if he looked for outside energy (Duracell) to get him through the crux. I personally remember doing that crux in my Teva’s, cough….but anyways,…So I told Tommy of my brilliant idea to better the Dawn Wall ascent, by accomplishing the first Dawn Wall down climb. Tommy agreed that it would be a difficult task, and like a king with ultimate wisdom……, passed the challenge on to Kevin.
Immediately Kevin and I are working out the moves. I wanted to do the down climb in an afternoon push, but Kevin insisted that headlamps that are powered by Duracell Quantum batteries (available in 8 pack, 16 pack, and 32 pack in a store near you) must be used on the ascent. We are going to attempt it again next summer at the OR show. Not the climb, the energy signature improvement! :)
Actually when accompanying the Jorgeson signature with a pre title, the Jorgeson signature brings out the High Energy!
On the outdoor court Vibram was on the street corner having a “Fastest Throw contest” with their Vibram Disc Golf frisbees!!! Neo got 51mph and Jaime got 45mph and the daily winning throw was around 71mph. I got 0mph since my old age wisdom told me to save the elbow for climbing. Vibram once again hooked up the museum team with an amazing lunch, fun schwag, and two styles of Golf Discs for the museum. Thanks Vibram for all of the fun!
At the DMM booth there were many new toys to play with. I totally love the Vault wire and Vault lock Ice Carabiner. It screws to the harness to keep stationary and upright and serves as a ice screw holder. DMM also was showing a new larger Revolver (carabiner pulley). At the booth I was talking to a DMM rep from Wales and he suddenly told me he has a gift for me. This was the first time I met him and just like that he hands me a complete carabiner progression of the DMM Chimera carabiner. I became speechless and like almost fainted on the spot from such a great gift, and I still can’t stop smiling on what I received. This is the greatest item I brought home from the show and I got it from just putting my hands out. THANKS DMM!!!!! It just seemed too easy like he knew I was going to be at the show or something. Maybe Stephane Pennequin had something to do with this….hmmmm……So I scored the carabiner progression and the rep showed me other progressions he had with him, that he kept for his travels. Very fun!
While I was in the Wild Country/Salewa booth, I noticed this little shoe that was sitting on the Salewa front desk. The rep I was talking to about it was saying that it was last years catalog and like its no big deal. (“NO BIG DEAL!!!”….I thought to myself as I held the facial composure that he was right and it was no big deal so he can just hand that no big deal item to the museum). But it wasn’t that easy and the rep held me at bay not giving up the shoe until Kurt Smith walked into the booth and said hello to me. I quickly whipped out two photos of Kurt climbing Sphinx crack 5.13 and asked for a signature. With a big smile the rep gave me the Salewa shoe and said enjoy. I totally love how the whole catalog is in digital hidden within this little shoe. This little item is a great score for the museum! Also thanks Kurt!
At the end of the show Tendon donated their big roll of Tendon rope samples to the museum. Accompanied with the Tendon catalog these rope samples are great for historical reference. Big THANKS Tendon for your support. Also Tendon wins #1 for the best climbing company ‘pen’ offered to the public at this 2016 show.
Butora hooked up Jaime with a pair of complementary shoes, and I scored a half shoe sample and handful of stickers. Thanks Butora!
Scarpa hooked me up with a slat wall Logo shoe holder which I am psyched to have! I love the company product display fixtures.
Paul Robinson was hanging out in the Asana booth and I brought along a special photo for him to sign. This photo is from the spring/summer 2017 Prana catalog listing him as a ambassador of the company. Heres a guy that is sending like all of the hard “V” boulder problems in the world, and the photo of him is climbing a V0 playground structure in New York. He says he feels so degraded and I could not help myself to rub it in with a signature! I like how in the photo Paul’s facial features have the same crunched look if he is sending V15+ or this VO. Paul is coming out with a new climbing movie sometime January 2017. Sweet!
While in the Asana booth I noticed a little rivalry happening at the show with simple message advertising. Asana is Bouldering! But then looking at Sterling ropes, their message is Bouldering is Dumb! Game on ding ding! But Sterling digs their superiority deeper by handing out very cool Chris Sharma shirts to the crowd.
Metolius keeps cranking out new amazing climbing holds, and at this show they came up with an even more unique hold made of aluminum. For collectors these holds are totally awesome! I can’t wait to see how they perform at the gym, and the customer reaction and feedback. For climbing holds I give Metolius #1 at the show for their unique new aluminum holds, but also the hold I wanted to take home the most from the show was the very Large Metolius Joey Hold. The runner up was Asana. I got a signature from Metolius master designer Doug Phillips, and saw some of my old friends Brian and Josh.
Neo looking good in the Red Chili booth. Red Chili has a new 2 piece bouldering brush set they had at the show but not available in the USA yet.
I was walking down the main isle and this familiar looking kid was acting like she was velcro’d to the carpet, within a crowd of many. This is Ellie Farmer, daughter of Rachael and Zak Farmer from Flagstaff AZ.
Time to take a moment to see what the stars are up to:
I first saw the Sublime bush at the Queen Creek Boulder comp in the raffle, and even though I purchased $18.00 in tickets, I still lost the brush. Now at the show the brushes are here by the bunches. I purchased my two Sublime brushes through the Access Fund to show my support. A thinner style brush will be out soon, and a new removable bristle style brush will also soon hit the market.
A few more things:
Krieg chalk bags has sponsored me for years and John Krieg at the show designed their newest chalk bag, which will soon be for sale. The Karabin Climbing Museum Mixed Nuts chalk bag! A great gift item for the holidays for sure! What an awesome chalk bag! The best in the whole wide world! Thanks Sam and John!!!
Well that’s the show! And let me give an additional huge THANKS to the many hundreds of other people I shared laughs with during this 2016 summer OR show. It was really fun!!!!! The Mixed Nuts display is presently at the Phoenix Rock Gym upstairs in the old store (new Museum space!!).
PsicoBloc 2016 review will be posted soon……..
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Aug 21, 2016 - 11:48pm PT
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Exceptional report my friend, as usual with you Marty...! Thank you very much for sharing your visit to the show with us. You are my "plane ticket" to Salt Lake City...
With very best wishes from Corsica,
Stéphane
PS: what about the new Alien Revo... ;-)
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2016 - 11:12pm PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase:
I am not upset with your statement and I agree that it raises a good question to the community: “Should memorial plaques be allowed to be placed in climbing areas?”
I am proud of you for you not changing your words on this thread. This thread is all about growth. I love how you share with others your fun feelings and your frustrated feelings and you are okay with it because you are just human. Being human is a tough thing for most people and you just showed yourself that you are conscious, and this is what makes you great. And to add that I will personally say, “I believe you are great!”
Yes many people getting hurt climbing these days in the gyms and in the outdoors. This world has become distracted with devices and the personal need to be constantly gaining information in one way or another. It is amazing how uncomfortable people feel standing at a street corner having nothing to do as they wait 45 seconds for the light to change. If the phone is not in the hand a person feels disconnected in a panic way. I know why so many climbers are getting hurt because the distractions are programmed in to the adventure through “habit,” to overcome boredom or just “having” to be still. Through most of my climbing years I lucked out by having only one climbing partner with me on the climbing days. These days if you have three or more people on a climbing trip and you are on lead, you already know that your belayer will be constantly distracted. And any time you ask your belayer for anything, the first reply will always be….”WHAT?”
Ken Nichols…….…hmmmm…..…I understand your anger!
…and still this many years later……….…..wow!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2016 - 11:15pm PT
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Dingus Milktoast and nutstory....Thanks for the energy!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 27, 2016 - 01:56am PT
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,!! , no need for the nodThanx Marty, I'm a big a fan of stuff, just can't be a master of the display in the way you are!
No one is In to this, more than you, we love to see it too.
Thank you it is clear that you share the stoke! We are a bunch of Mixed Nuts!
I wanted to speak from that place that so many of us come from.
From the place where less and less climbers get their start.
It was dusty, dirty and got dark fast at night. We slept deeply in the dirt,
Remember brushing your teeth off the back bumper of your truck?
I remember having to do a pee-pee dance because a family, seeing our group of camped riggs, had popped up and camped right next to us (by mistake in the dark )
All the little things .... Keeping everything in its own bag - bottle caps in a bag?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2016 - 03:54pm PT
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"I wanted to speak from that place that so many of us come from.
From the place where less and less climbers get their start.
It was dusty, dirty and got dark fast at night. We slept deeply in the dirt,
Remember brushing your teeth off the back bumper of your truck?
Gnome Ofthe Diabase: Those were the days when I was a true hero to myself! I climbed because I wanted to and nobody needed to be informed of my 5.0 and 5.13 victories! My victories didn't make me, they were just there for that moment of adventure! Those were great days!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2016 - 04:03pm PT
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Just received a handful of the new Aluminum Metolius Mini Tech Foot Holds.
A few for the museum and a few for the customers to check out at the Phoenix Rock Gym
Presently there are 5 different shapes and 5 different colors available.
I set a route up the slab at the rock gym with these Mini Tech Foot Holds and I am amazed on how well the shoes stick to them. A little pricey but very unique.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2016 - 09:17pm PT
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Found the last Sasha DiGiulian card I was missing and it came from China.
Sasha DiGiulian Lady Luck black mini #11/25
So I believe I have the full set of 22 cards.
Sasha DiGiulian 2016 Upper Deck Goodwin Champions
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2016 - 08:14pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2016 - 08:17pm PT
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Hmmm, which shoe should I wear? These are Five Ten shoe samples from the early 2000s, donated to the Karabin Climbing Museum by Chuck Blackwell. One of each different shoe. I built a display box for them, but now it looks like I need a much bigger display box. Huge THANKS again Chuck!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2016 - 10:20pm PT
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Big THANKS to Five Ten for sending me the red Stealth rubber sample disc, and just in time for the Five Ten shoe display that I am creating for the Phoenix Rock Gym. The display shows 50 different shoes and 80 different Five Ten stickers, and the Stealth sample disc set. For now I am prepping the display shoes, stuffing them etc, and figuring out how to attach the shoes to the display boards. Good Times!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2016 - 05:57pm PT
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1985 to present, qty 86 different Five Ten stickers
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2016 - 08:24pm PT
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FIVE TEN shoe/sticker display
First job was stuffing the shoes with paper so they would hold their display shape better, and retying the shoe lace bows. Steel wire was needed to attach the shoes to the boards so they would not slip out of place. The stickers were placed in baseball card holders to keep them mint condition, then taped to the display case glass. The display is going into the Phoenix Rock Gym so the main issue is keeping chalk dust out to he interior of the case. So thick clear tape is placed first on the wall where the display case frame will touch, then after the frame is attached, the interior of the frame is taped between the wood frame and to the tape on the wall. Three shoe display boards are slipped into place and the glass is perfectly fit sandwiching and protecting everything within. Clear tape then is added to the display case front placed on the glass and wood frame to presvent chalk dust from entering from the front of the display case.
I love how these cool projects just fall together perfectly! Big THANKS Five Ten for the fun! Sorry but the photos below of the display have a lot of glass reflection. I will attempt to get a cleaner photo!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2016 - 09:39pm PT
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After years of dedication to my sponsor, Planetary Climbing holds hooks me up with a banner, and a few Planetary Climbing stickers! Already stuck a Planetary sticker on my ride to represent! Thanks Justin!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2016 - 09:51pm PT
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Access Fund Reel Rock 11 Sneak Preview Party 8/2016
During the August Outdoor Retailer show we were able to score tickets to the Access Fund Sneak Preview of the Reel Rock Tour 11. The Access Fund totally hooked us up with tickets and schwag, and beer and food, and ..and …and! Big THANKS Access Fund! It was a great time talking to the climbing talent, and the producers of the films.
At the August Sneak Preview party it showed a shorter version of the Reel Rock Tour. Tonight in Tempe AZ I am seeing the tour in its entirety, Psyched!!!! For what I have seen so far the films are amazing especially the boat Baffin Island film. I give a big APPLAUSE to the film producers and the many mind twisting hours it takes to create these exciting films. Also a big APPLAUSE goes to the Sponsors, the climbing talent and their helpers.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2016 - 10:24pm PT
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Here I am at the Homestead crag in Arizona!
Ha, I fooled you! I am actually at the movie theater getting ready to see the Reel Rock 11 tour! Awesome!!! At the movie theater, Tony Cadoran, Chara and other amazing climbers put together a Access Fund raffle and a photo booth of the Homestead climbing area. Curt Shannon from the Access Fund started the evening off giving a support speech to the movie audience. During movie intermission everybody voted on 15 different amazing photos. Tony Cadoran “Stary night at Enchanted Towers” photo won first place. At the end of the Reel Rock films the raffle winning tickets were picked.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2016 - 10:26pm PT
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Reel Rock 11…..OMG, I’m in the movie! Near the end of the Ashima Shiraishi- Kai Lightner movie is a two second clip of Alex Johnson, Marty and Ashima smiling for Ashima’s dad at the 2014 Outdoor Retailers Show in Utah. Sofia Long was there and took this photo of the fun. The clip in the movie is from Hisatoshi Shiraishi (Poppo).
Photo of me with Ashima Shiraishi’s parents Tsuya and Hisatoshi was taken at the Utah Petzl corporate grand opening party August 2014. Photo by Sofia Long. Its all about the Love!
Big THANKS to the movie Producers again for the energy!
Many Blessings to the Shiraishi family and the Lightner family.
All of the films were great, no complaints! I love the horrifying screams on the big falls! Kai's mom complaining about being his belay Bitch is hilarious! My second time seeing the Dodo’s Delight was just as enjoyable as the first.
Great fun!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2016 - 03:22pm PT
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Last week evolv rep Traci Cosmer visited the gym and gave a evolv shoe demo to the gym customers. evolv in the house!
Thanks Traci and evolv!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2016 - 03:23pm PT
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Thrive Climbing
The Thrive Climbing holds shop is located here in Tempe AZ so I gave them a visit. Owner Ryan Wurm was on the scene and gave me a tour of where the Thrive magical holds are created.
Thrive makes really cool holds, large monster holds, fiberglass really large monstrous holds. aaaaaaa….fun stuff! Ryan donated a bunch of holds and hold molds to the museum. SWEET! Thanks Ryan! Thrive Climbing started in 2012.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2016 - 03:57pm PT
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At the Focus Desert Classic comp Voodoo was on the scene showing all sorts of great sewn goods, and crash pads etc. It was great to catch up with Voodoo owner Gina Richer since they are located up in Flagstaff AZ and I don’t get up there enough.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2016 - 04:00pm PT
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It was great to see Scott Early on the scene at the Desert Classic comp. I love his shirt statement. Scott took a ground fall while top roping which ended with a back vertebra break and two shattered heels. Scott was at the comp cheering on his daughter Sage who won first place in the Advanced category.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
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A few nights ago Butora shoes visited the Phoenix Rock Gym and gave a shoe demo to all of the gym customers. Thanks Butora and Butora reps Heeran Joe and Mack Maier
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2016 - 09:14pm PT
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Look who is now working for me at the Phoenix Rock Gym. Climbing magazine cover nothing! Now you are under Marty’s direction! (whip snap, whip snap, hawk sound)! Yes the famous Jim Waugh. A museum tidbit about this issue of Climbing magazine…. This is issue #101 April 1987 which is the last issue of Climbing magazine which staples are used (taco fold) to hold the magazine pages together. Climbing magazine #102 is perfect bound where all pages are glued on one edge within a outer cover jacket. Very clean and beautiful energy signature! Love the tights!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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PsicoBloc review
August 5, 2016
40 photos
PsicoBloc: deep water soloing. The water at the base of the climb protects the climber in case of a fall. The 55’ climbing wall is located in the Utah Olympic Park and is built over the landing pool for the freestyle USA aerial skiers practicing their flips.
One of the highlights of going to the Outdoor Retailer Show is that PsicoBloc is held at the same time. This way the climbing athletes can support their sponsors at the show during the day, and compete later in the evening. This years PsicoBloc was awesome! Food vendors, climbing companies showing their goods, climbing stars signing posters, drinks, schwag and more…..
And then it started to rain. The spectators sitting on the lawn were prepared with umbrellas or ran for cover in one of the buildings. At least the rain never got heavy and just drizzled for 20 minutes, then quit.
While the climbing wall routes were changed from the Woman’s routes to the Mens routes, I visited the Alf Engen Ski Museum in the Joe Quinney building, which also has on display the Salt Lake 2002 Olympic Museum. I figured it was a perfect time to gather ideas for my future climbing museum. The displays are really cool! Props to the peoples who put together the museums!
Back to the comp and the climbing wall where a few skiers were entertaining the crowd with aerial tricks landing into the water. A guy also walked a 300’ slack line across the pool. The Mens Finals are on their way.
Big PROPS to Chris Sharma and the whole crew that put together PsicoBloc 2016. Great show for sure! The following day I was at the airport heading home to Arizona and I had some time to get food before getting on the plane. I spent the last four days at the Outdoor Retailers Show eating tons of great food samples and now I just wanted a burger. For years I have avoided the fast food world but McDonalds it was! Once I had my burger and fries I searched around for a table and there was only one available so I sat down. While indiscreetly looking at the gentleman to my left I noticed a PsicoBloc hat sticking out of his backpack. I happily commented to him, “so you paid $30.00 for the hat also.” He replied, “I actually got it for free.” ”I am the director of the PsicoBloc competition in Europe. Wow, Go Figure! We got into a fun conversation and then he mentioned to me that my plane is presently boarding. Oh Crap! I ran across the whole frickin’ airport as they kept announcing “final boarding, final boarding!” Got to the gate as the door was closing on the plane. I love the Summer OR Show adventures! The struggle of the reward!
Cheers Maurizio!
The woman’s route was rated 5.12+ and the mens route was rated 5.14-. The men were running the 55' route in less than one minute.
Final Placement:
Womens Finals:
1) Michaela Kiersch
2) Sidney Trinidad
Mens Finals:
1) Jan Hojer
2) Nathaniel Coleman
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2016 - 09:47am PT
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— AZ Hiking Shack
On October 15 the Arizona Hiking Shack organized a community fun day at the store which included a big sale, outdoor gear swap, Tips and Tricks seminar by Randy Propster from Backpacker Magazine, food, etc. So Jaime Gangi insisted that the Phoenix Rock Gym be present at the gear swap so I was roped in to getting a bunch of stuff together to swap. No problem, and our booth space was styling and in the shade! A few other people set up tables and the Arizona Mountaineering Club also set up a booth and had a few things for sale from Phoenix local Wally Vegors.
Fifteen years ago I visited Wally’s estate and purchased a few museum trinkets from him and I thought I got all of the prizes from his 1940s rack. But at the gear swap I wandered over to the AMC booth to inspect what he had brought and it only took a few seconds before total shock hit me, and I went into fainting mode. The AZ Hiking Shack is where my Chouinard museum is on display, and three of the items missing in the museum were sitting there on the table for sale. Late 1960 Chouinard Knifeblade 2 sizes and late 1960 Chouinard Vertical Knifeblade, $10.00 each. The Vertical Knifeblade is listed as priceless and I happened to purchase it at a gear swap located 25 feet away from my Chouinard Museum display. What are the chances of that?
What is beautiful about these three Chouinard trinkets is that they show proof of Chouinard’s transition from a square eye piton profile, to a angled profile and added notch. The Chouinard Pitons shown in the March 1960 Dolt catalog have a square profile, but by 1961 the notch was added to the Knifeblades and Bugaboos, and shortly after the Vertical Knifeblade was no longer made. The square of the eye on the blade side was angled sometime late 1960, and notch by mid 1960. Looking at Wally’s two Chouinard Knifeblades, one has a square profile and one a angled profile, and the Vertical Knifeblade has the angled profile. Cool!
The fun continues big time! Wally also had this mid 1940 Holubar piton and Gerry Pitons, and two Doug Black first generation angle pitons. These two pitons prove that Doug Black used galvanized rings on his first created angles, before he used stainless steel rings. Also Doug Black was known for welding the ends of the angle pitons. c1960s.
I noticed a small red bag on the booth table which was selling for only $15. When I poured it out the first thing I saw was a Dolt Step-On hanger. It is Wally’s small bolt kit from 1959. Also there are a few Gerry “Pop-Top” hangers and a aluminum hand drill. Wally had a larger bolt kit for sale as well and when I poured that out there was a second Dolt Step-On hanger sitting there. One has a 1/4 bolt hole and the other 3/8. Other hangers are thin Leeper and Doug Black ring rap hanger c1964. I love the square head steel bolts. Both of these bolt kits belong in a museum!
Another gem that was on the table was two mid 1940s Fritsch & Cie Zurich wafer pitons, a 1940s Holubar hammer and 1940s Holubar hammer holster. I was able to hold the items but they were already sold to another friend of Wally’s.
Wally is 85 years old and is still involved with the Arizona Mountaineering Club. At the swap was some old AMC monthly booklets which they are archiving, and old AMC Tshirts which I got for the museum.
Overall it was a great day, and Jaime and I were able to raise 175.00 for the Access Fund going toward improvements to the Homestead climbing crag. Brian May stopped by and donated a few big ENIX holds to the museum and PRG. Thanks to the Phoenix Rock Gym and the AZ Hiking Shack for the fun!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2016 - 09:08pm PT
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A week ago I installed this museum display at Focus Climbing Center. These four powerhouse climbers just keep getting stronger. To me the display radiates energy and accomplishment. Believe in yourself and want it! Another great addition to the Karabin Climbing Museum!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 07:17am PT
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New museum display at the Phoenix Rock Gym
The old climbing store space at the Phoenix Rock Gym has been sitting for a while, so I decided it would be a perfect location for some of the museum trinkets. Successfully I have found more glass patio doors to create the display with, which will be easier to keep the gym chalk dust out of the display. The display is 7’ tall x 13’ in length and will hold half of the bolting equipment (around 1000 items) in the Karabin Climbing Museum. First order of business is to do some sticker repairs on the floor so I got my friend Summit Cox to assist in the sticker peeling sticking frenzy fun. The sticker floor was originally created in 2006 for the AZ Cliff Hanger climbing store. Thanks to the many climbing manufacturers for their sticker support!
In the gym the store space is becoming the Lizard Lounge/ Karabin Climbing Museum. I am totally psyched to have a place to show the museum items to the public. So phase one of the display is complete! Many of these display panels I put together while my kids were in diapers 17 years ago, and the display was then dragged from one storage unit to another until now! The display so far is comprised of hand drills, hooks, hammers and some of the bolt hangers. The second half of the display will show another 1000 bolt hangers. Fun! Thanks to the many people who donated to the museum to make this display happen.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:23am PT
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Totally awesome displays Marty! Great work!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2016 - 07:13am PT
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Thanks Fritz for the energy!
La Sportiva 20th Anniversary Mythos collectors book and keychain. These were created in 2011 as a special gift for La Sportiva company managers and sales reps. The Keychain was created by Andrea Sampaoli in Italy. I am blown away on how much exact Mythos detail was put into the keychain shoes!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2017 - 01:01pm PT
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Master artist and accomplished rock climber Chris Raypole created this awesome orchid pot for my sisters Christmas gift from me. Totally amazing piece and by coincidence my sister had an orchid sitting in her kitchen without a home. This was meant to be. Major props to Chris!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2017 - 07:33pm PT
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Good Morning Arizona Channel 3
I woke up early saturday morning and decided to go to the rock gym to continue painting on the murals around the gym. I didn’t shower and was still in my pajamas, but first I picked up a few stray milk crates on the street along my journey. Also for some reason I felt the need to bring my Valley Giant cams to the gym and put them on display in the upstairs Karabin Museum. I arrived at the gym around 5:00am and to my surprise owner Paul Diefenderfer was vacuuming and cleaning the gym at high speed. Then suddenly a Channel 3 news vehicle arrived and put up a 20’ boom antenna out of their truck, and I was there busted holding stray milk crates in my pajamas. No this story is not about milk crates.
To my surprise, the Channel 3 Good Morning Arizona morning show was airing their weather segments live from the Phoenix Rock Gym. Not just one or two segments, but 16 segments over a 4 hour period. I am the Director of Vertical Entertainment at the gym and of course I am always last to know what is happening in the gym. Good times! So the staff involved was Dief, Marty, Kat, Bre, Jonah and Hanna, Alex arrived for the last segment. We were working with Weather/Meteorologist Kim Quintero and her camera man Mike Conlee. It was really cool to see how the process worked live as Kim popped in and out of the Good Morning Arizona show.
Qty 8 of the segments shown are presently on the Channel 3 website under “www.azfamily.com - header “Good Morning Arizona,”dated 1/7/2017 (scroll down to find them). The next day the Channel 3 morning crew was at the AZ Hiking Shack doing the same morning show. Thanks Good Morning Arizona Channel 3 for the fun!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2017 - 07:44pm PT
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October 23, 2016 Arno Ilgner and Tracy Martin were in town at the Phoenix Rock Gym training climbers with their teaching named Falling and Commitment. Arno surprised me bringing along two of his personal hand drills and donated them to the museum. Arno is a total badass climber that was Blessed having a very balanced lead head. He teaches his secrets in his classes. Thanks Arno tons, Love you man!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2017 - 08:11pm PT
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I painted a few Jean Jackets between 1981 and 1986. Many of the jackets I painted for friends but the Jimi Hendrix jacket is my personal jacket. Also sharing jean pants I painted and clothing I wore back in High school in 1981/82. Yes I dressed like Jimi Hendrix for my Junior and Senior year. My poor parents, Good Grief!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2017 - 08:21pm PT
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The dragon pants I painted in 1981 and wore them to high school and many rock concerts until I wore them out. The flower pants I also wore in High school, and the rattle snake party pants I painted when I first arrived in Arizona in 1985.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2017 - 08:35pm PT
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These are some of the 1960s shirts I wore in high school 1981-1982
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2017 - 07:06pm PT
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November 2016 Ashley Anixter hooked me up with more USA ribbons for the Museum. I have a great collection of competition ribbons now for sure. Totally psyched, Thanks Ashley!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 05:44am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 05:46am PT
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A few days after this Christmas 2016, I went to bed feeling weird, then I woke up being somebody else. Everything now seems new to me like it is the first time I am experiencing everything. My speaking and writing is suddenly high level and the voice in my head is now saying that I am no longer Marty the Climber, I am Marty the Sage.
I am not exactly sure what this means. Since this change, by coincidence I have been with four priests of different church religions and have been Blessing them saying. “God has personally sent me to Bless you.” Dang the words are just coming out of my mouth by themselves and I love it! One priest even sat down and had lunch with me and we had a amazing conversation! I have been smoking pot for years and suddenly I am looking at my stash and wondering what it is and why do I even need it? I feel like I have never smoked in my life and I simply threw it away in the trash. I notice that a simple cup of caffeinated tea really makes me shake so I stopped drinking caffeine as well to stop the shaking. I suddenly am enjoying experiencing everything this earth has to offer, like it is the first time I stepped on this earth. This is totally awesome! Now continual stories are in my head wanting to be written and I have captured/wrote a few and put them on my Facebook page, but I share these stories here as well. Maybe some people will be interested in these Truths that are suddenly pouring out of me.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 05:47am PT
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Proper Apology
Why is it that when somebody apologizes to a friend or a loved one, the apology does not seem to be heard? How many times does it take for somebody to truly hear and feel a personal apology? Only one apology is necessary if a person understands the dynamics of reaching a person at the deepest level.
But lets look at societies programming. In most TV shows, movies, soap operas, etc, the people have to get into some escalated fight (breaking the shadow) before they can surrender to each other resulting in hugs and tears and being thoroughly sorry for their actions. But this apology is not absolutely finalized since they walk away from each other with smiles and new beginnings yes, but they still carry a percent of doubt toward each other.
Humans can deeply apologize for an action or offense that they have done, and then walk away feeling good that all aggression has been balanced. But then later behind the scenes the apologizing person still hears the receiving person complaining to somebody else about what that person has done to them. The receiving person is still hurt in some way even after the apology has been delivered and fully accepted. The apologizing person is now hurt as well. This earth world is really tough, and from birth humans quickly see how much hurt is going around to ones self and to others. It is not fun getting hurt over and over and after the cycle repeats itself many times, humans develop a wall of protection to ease the pain of the hurt, and the perceived next hurt they may receive. This protection is more than just a wall, this developed protection actually has a conscious. So not protection but protector. This protector is named the Shadow and everybody has this Shadow.
The shadow is positioned between the hurtful actions of the outside world and the inner child. Also there is a buffer zone between the shadow and the inner child. So the shadow has a wall, and the inner child has a wall. The shadow is one of the toughest stubborn characters within all humans. It fully can control and take advantage of all situations as it protects the very loving and caring inner child from pain at all costs. It does not just protect from others, it protects from self actions as well. The shadow demands respect first before it lets anybody including self, to reach the inner child.
For this example I will use a boyfriend and girlfriend in a new relationship for the understanding. Setting One: The boyfriend does something bad to the girlfriend and now the girlfriend is upset and non talkative. The boyfriend apologizes and the girlfriend shadow asks itself it the apology was acceptable enough to let it pass on to the girlfriend inner child. Since the relationship is new, the apology is accepted by the inner child and the relationship continues on hand-in-hand.
Setting Two: After this cycle has repeated itself a few times, the shadow has become more aware of the pain it is receiving and strengthens its walls. The shadow now takes a firm position as the mediator for the inner child not allowing the apology to go through, unless it is wrapped in a deeper form of love. The inner child as well is aware of this cycle of pain and also expects a stronger and more realistic apology. In this case the apology may have been accepted by the shadow, but now the apology remains in the buffer zone between the shadow and inner child, where the inner child keeps its guard up. The relationship continues on now walking side-by-side, not hand-in-hand.
Setting Three and on: As this cycle of pain continues the shadow no longer accepts the apology, and the relationship goes into more of a court room setting where each the boyfriend and girlfriend state their case to each other in anger. As the anger and creative logic escalates in this court room, the apology may become acceptable for the shadow, but never for the inner child. The couple now has one person leading and one person following. In most cases the boyfriend will jut give up on everything “she’s always right,” or the boyfriend will dominate the relationship; “he’s always right”. Now the relationship is on the road to a breakup, unless the couple enjoys swirling in their non constructive pain.
The shadow does not just protect from pain in relationships, it protects in self actions as well. Family death, job loss, drug addiction, self inadequacy, etc, are a few reasons the shadow takes a stand of protection for the inner child. The person who is fooling themselves by pretending, is fully detected by their shadow. A person cannot sneak around their shadow because the shadow never sleeps. It is always aware of all actions. This is why people have trouble breaking their addictions and seek outside help to reach their inner child for healing. This is why people become very angry in life not understanding why they cannot simply release the overabundant pain they are having or have experienced in a situation. It is because the shadow demands the proper apology first, and the inner child is the one who releases the pain where then peace is achieved.
If the inner child becomes overly hurt, this is where thoughts of suicide come from. God gave all humans this shadow as a secondary mechanism to keep humans remaining on this earth to complete their mission duration, and not to cut it short with suicide.
A proper apology is not just saying sorry, or stomping around in circles yelling “I’m sorry,” but actually gift wrapping the apology in love so the inner child can receive it. If you truly are sorry for something, then show it with love to the fullest degree. Find a place away from the worlds distractions, look into the eyes of the one the apology is intended for, and deliver it with love. Deliver it over and over with incredible love if necessary! Being hurt is not an easy thing to overcome! Deliver it in truth over and over and over and over and over, and believe it! Purchasing gifts can help to attract a persons shadow to begin to listen to them, but the very loving truthful apology is still necessary to reach the soft and fragile inner child.
Master Guru Matt Kahn speaks of this shadow in greater depth on his YouTube segments. Search for “Respecting the Shadow”
With Love, Marty the Sage
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 05:50am PT
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Breaking Pride
When I finally reached a point of madness in my life and I had nowhere else to turn, I finally said hello to God. Don’t get me wrong, God has been with me all along, but I was not with God at all. I was the child that always had to do things in life myself. The rotten child that needed to go against the grain in everything. Nothing was ever my fault and I was living in a world that enjoyed continually crapping on me. “That’s just life,” became my motto. By 16 years old I was ready to leave my parents because I knew what was right and they didn’t know anything. My parents actually were the greatest parents in the world! I had everything with them, but I only looked at myself. My parents created an incredible world for me, my sister and brother and I never saw it. I was basically being raised within the movie Elf and the Brady Bunch. Behind the scenes I took the path of partying because society was pushing partying big time. The hippie 60s. The free love movement 70s. Billboards and magazines and television everywhere advertising cigarettes and alcohol and pills. All of these items were so accessible, a child had no problem obtaining them. I remained with my parents until age 17, then I totally disappeared from their life for 8 years. Just totally disappeared! My parents hearts must have been crushed!
A few years ago God began realigning me, and still is doing this today. I was to first create a timeline of my life so I can visually see who I am and there would be no lies to my stories. By age 23 the partying began to subside, not necessarily because I wanted it to, it was because I had no money and I had nobody to depend on but friends. But even there my pride did not allow me to trust in my friends for their help. I remember one time in my life having only 5 packs of Ramen soup and a loaf of bread, and this was to last for a week until I got my next paycheck, which still provided not enough food to survive on. I visited fast food restaurants to steal sugar and ketchup packets to keep my energy going. I never stood on the street corner begging for money.
I write this story for those who are following this same path of pride, and I tell you it is not worth it. There is no reason for it especially when family and friends are just a phone call away and they have so much to give you! All pride is, is resisting somebody else’s Love they have for you. And when you have difficulty Loving the person you personally see in the mirror, which is you, then you will overlook the many many many people that are here to help you.
I share with you a 9 year period in my life which takes me from graduating high school, to when I created the first two Marty climbing guidebooks. Thanks to my friends who were with me on my journey and took me in within this time of my life. I thank Harvey De Los Reyes (Scott) for getting me interested in climbing, and for my wife Randi, (which is Xwife now but I still have the highest love for her), for being the ones who removed the chip off of my shoulder and opened my eyes to what this world truly has to offer. My Motto now is “Always an Adventure” because I really love the person that I am, and love absorbing all of the great pleasures God is gifting me with in this world. Finding happiness in life is so easy and effortless if you allow it to be. Open your heart!
The Mount Lemmon book is 18 pages made with calligraphy paper and a xerox machine. While creating it a climber named Eric Fazio-Rhicard walked up to me and asked “whatch you making?” Then he added info to it. Eric a few months later published the Squeezing the Lemmon guidebook. I still am amazed that Eric never mentioned his book or was bummed that I was making a book at the same time as he, and actually helped me create my book! Eric is amazing! A different publishing company searched the whole USA trying to find the cover stock I used then finally asked where I got it from. I told them I used clear shelf paper and a kitchen spatula to create the plastic cover stock. They laughed in joy! 200 of these were created. The Pancake house book is the first info for the routes in Upper Devils Canyon. 11 pieces of typing paper stapled together, and the book only shows 7 routes. 10 of these were created.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 05:51am PT
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Reaching Nirvana
I am filled with a Blessing so powerful, it has already changed me. I want to tell you this truth in case something suddenly happens to me and this Truth nugget gets lost. I did nothing to earn this Blessing and everybody has an opportunity in their life to receive it. The only thing I can figure out is that absolute truth of heart is a necessary component, also having the ability to truly Love who you are to the highest level.
The secret to achieving incredible peace and happiness is when the Twins become one. In the spirit world (source) the soul is enjoying Grace at the highest level then volunteers to go on an adventure with God. God is the ocean and the soul is a smaller piece of that same ocean so truly everybody is God, but shown as smaller god. I like to say the ocean is water and souls are the same but in a different form like an ice cube of that water. But in this case the soul ice cube is not cold, but is warm and full of love. When the soul leaves with God on the adventure, the soul is split in two where on earth the soul is within the physical body, and in the spirit world the higher self soul remains. A perfect copy of each other. The earth souls memory is purposely erased so true experience is achieved.
God is with the earth soul at all times. While traveling with a friend on a vacation and you are the driver, once the mind has established that the friend is with you in the passenger seat there becomes little need to have a constant eye on that passenger. The driver with assurance can feel the energy that the passenger is always there even when there are moments of silence. In my life especially throughout year 2016, I have felt this invisible passenger with me at all times in everything I did. I am very very very aware that somebody is always with me. I am never alone. It takes no sight to feel this energy partner. God is this partner. When the earth adventure is complete, the earth soul returns and melds with the source and as this process happens over and over thousands+ of times as the ice cube slowly melts more and more until it has completely become one with God.
God gets so much information this way through true experience but understand that God needs nothing from you in life. God is complete from the start and there is nothing anybody can do move God, not even Jesus. In Gods perfection the ora of God became manifest and the ora is the one that has created this already written story. The Bible specifies that the Word (Jesus) is the creator of everything which includes the angels and the millions of universes within the dimensions. The Word is God and so are you and me. The story from start to finish has already been completed, and us humans are playing out an amazing role through energy of showing this created story, the Story of Life from the Book of Life. Yes we are truly playing a part in a movie within a very very amazing super advanced computer program. When humans die the body may quiver but the soul feels nothing as it easily steps through the veil back into the spirit world. The souls spirit body is already there as the twins become one again, and again, and again.
But how does this help in achieving a place of amazing peace and happiness, while being the mind erased earth soul on the physical earth? My gift this Christmas was achieving this answer. God switched Marty the Climber, with Marty the Sage. I personally did nothing to achieve this, it just suddenly happened. Many religions and spiritual documents show that when a human is able to break the code of the control/manipulation mind, it becomes a New Creature (MK ABC Guide Level 3 to Level 4). This act is the human becoming a New Creature which is a spiritual event. Only 15% of the earth population will be able to break this code. At this time the human fills itself with knowledge since it enjoys the new non-manipulated life style it has achieved. The human now creates its life from within, over letting the outside world create the human.
But this is where most spiritual people circle round and round as they gather more and more information, and feel as though they are high level individuals. It is easy to make a high level spiritual person run in fear when they are presented with a question that they stumble on while trying to answer the question. Their identity feels attacked and they see that it is obvious that they are inadequate even when they know everything. They cannot be exposed as a liar or being without truth to anybody while they within the non-manipulative realm. WTF! Priests cut off the conversation abruptly and only stay within the teachings of a book. High level spiritual people become rude as they whisk the questioner away as though the questioner asked something wrong. The over abundance of knowledge is a trap which causes confusion, depression, doubt etc, because the human is still doing all of the work to achieve the even higher levels. What happened with the God passenger that is always present? Why does the human always go back to self works, while God is completely with you? Knowledge is such a trap because it always presents more questions than answers.
My gift this Christmas is a powerful truth which God Blessed me with. I now understand so much!!! This is the nugget of truth which I am called forward to teach to as many God teaching Gurus that God sends me to. I am Marty the Sage, a Master vessel that God will personally speak through. I need no books or information for this position. God will speak directly through this Marty Sage vessel, and this is already happening.
The important item that is not taught about the soul awakening process is that the Human becomes a New Spiritual Creature (Level 3 - Level 4). But now the “New spiritual Creature must be awakened!” There are two Awakenings! This second awakening (MK ABC Guide Level 5 - Level 6) I don’t have in my guide since I never knew of it. Not just the Human, but the New Creature must be awakened! When this spiritual gift takes place the Twin Souls become one. The spirit world soul actually melds (?) switches (?) with the earth soul, and the earth soul now gets all of the information that was erased at birth to use on the physical plateau, within its level of advancement. For example. I smoked pot for many many years but now that the spirit world soul took over, it states within me that it has never smoked pot before ever. The physical body still feels the old pot abuse, but the new mind now takes over and all addictions to the highest level totally vanish. Now the body slowly over time repairs itself becoming whole again as the body was intended to be.
My new ministry is to teach thousands of Priests and high level spiritual Sages this truth realization, and already my ministry has started. In the last three weeks for some reason I have been with a dozen ministers and priests and I don’t even know why, now I fully understand! Truth information is pouring in me so fast that I can’t help myself from laughing because now I see how simple life truly is.
Faith requires no books! Faith is a personal relationship with God. When the Twins become one there is only one voice in my head. I don’t make wrong decisions because there is only one choice presented, and it is always the correct choice. Since this switch has happened I am witnessing that the one choice is always presented gift wrapped in Love. This one voice is providing me with the highest level of peace and happiness that I have ever felt in my life!
I am not better than any human on this earth! Everybody on this earth can achieve this level of Peace and Happiness! The key that helps is to Love who you are to the highest level and your personal relationship with the creator!
With tons of Love,
Marty the Sage
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 05:52am PT
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Breaking Addiction
Please allow me to explain through my story, and I will show you how a person who is addicted to heroin can simply walk away from it overnight. A person who has been in and out of rehab for years and still suffers not knowing how to break the addiction chains that bind them. This truth is not just for heroin users, but for all addictions that control us humans. This truth is written in the Bible, but ALL of the religions that span from the Bible has misinterpreted the truth and has twisted it into their own meaning. Already I can sense your mistrust toward my truth that I will explain. Already I can feel religions and doctors and rehab centers spitting on me in laughter, and they yet have not even read this truth nugget that I give to you.
Lower your guarded mind with its many walls which you have created to hide behind, and please allow me to explain. The main characters that will assist me in this explanation is a human, Jesus (as human and The Word), Satin (Lucifer) and God. Jesus in the Bible stated “Get behind me Satin” is a statement that people believe that they can be more powerful than Satin because Satin is only an angel. Every religion spews and twists this as truth, as though you can just throw Satin to the side and out do him in every arena. If this was true then why are humans spending billions of dollars a year to find a way to break their addictions? Humans will give anything to once again be free. My intention with this truth is not to teach you Bible, but alignment of the mind. Let me set the stage for the alignment, and I will then continue with this truth. God is and already has everything, the ora of God manifested into the Word (Jesus), The Word created everything from this point on including the the angels, (one which is Lucifer), and the many universes us humans are within. I am not here choosing a particular religion to speak through, just setting a stage of understanding.
“Get behind me Satin” is a statement that Jesus personally made a mistake with, where Jesus even at the cross didn’t understand and overcome. With this mistake religions run wild in their teachings stating that it is truth, when it is not. Remember that the Word (Jesus) created Satin and everything therefore is a product of God. Satin is not a horned devil that is working to destroy humans. Satin is a understanding to show difference as Jesus is the plus, and Satin is the minus. Both Jesus and Satin are loved by God just as much as humans are loved by God, all equally. Each human has an addiction to overcome. This addiction is referred to as “Lucifers Thorn.” A creation of God that has been given to Satin.
Jesus after he spoke “Get behind me Satin,” continued on with his ministry but in Jesus’s mind Satin was still taunting him throughout. Even Jesus was having trouble with the Lucifers Thorn understanding. Satin kept popping up here and there and Satin was always present. In this case if you think that you personally are better than your problem, your problem will still overtake you. The minus situation that Jesus had to go through was the terrible pain he knew that he had to endure on the cross. Even near the very end in the garden of Gethsemane, Jesus sweated plasma (blood) as he prayed to God asking why God would not remove this “Thorn” from his side. Even on the cross Jesus questioned if God the Father was with him because the “Thorn” remained. This here shows that even if a human receptively goes to God in full repentance with tears shouting in excruciating want, the Thorn must remain. This is also a system which God created that encourages the human to continually seek God in all troubles that are beyond the humans control. Not just only God, but Faith and Love included is the only true healer.
I give props to many ministers that have helped me unlock this truth, including Steven Furtick. Rehab centers and their doctors are incredible. I give props to everybody who helps a person with their addictions. Please respect and listen to these doctors because they encourage many different ways a person can believe in themselves to reach a level of Faith within themselves. Addiction is very difficult mind control element that is hard to break. On the television there are commercials from rehab centers that continually state “Addiction is a disease and cannot be broken alone,” which is close to true. But the element that is missing in this statement is that the patient trust is going the doctor which serves as the relationship, and not to God. When the patient leaves the rehab center, the patient is once again alone. The addiction cycle once again restarts. But let’s look at a patient that is in rehab and has relationship with God and has an addiction. The patient that is somewhat cured leaves the rehab center with God so the patient is not alone, but then the cycle of addiction resurfaces again. Now even worse the patient doubts if there even is a God. Why does this happen?
Previous to Jesus being whipped and beaten by the Romans (near crucifixion), Jesus stated “Get behind me Satin.” But Satin was still there. Satin is now behind, but has not left the situation as Satin now follows a person around closely and continuously. In the Mel Gibson movie “Passion of the Christ,” the movie does a great job of showing Satin circling Jesus, staring with intense control and silently dominating. Satin stated to Jesus that Satin would give Jesus full control of all of the nations of earth if Jesus would just bow to Satin. Jesus did not, and Satin still follows close on Jesus’s heels. Jesus stared at Satin circling him while Jesus was brutally whipped and beaten by the Romans, and then was prepared for the cross. As Jesus hung on the cross Jesus could not figure out why Satin still had control of him. Jesus who is the Word God, was still in some form controlled by Satin.
What the religions do not see or teach is that Jesus who now wears the crown of thorns, is the representation of the answer that can break all addictions. This may sound wild, but the answer is to let Satin lead you in the addiction. The way Jesus showed this truth is by Jesus not only showing one thorn he had to overcome, Jesus became the master of all thorns by wearing a crown of thorns to the point that it was so deeply imbedded into his mind, that Jesus’s blood was running down his entire head!
The key to breaking all addictions is this: Let “Lucifers Thorn” lead you as you have absolute love with self, and a loving personal relationship with God as you sit at Gods feet (reverence, respect to the highest level). If Satin is leading, that does not require a person to follow!!!!! But if you think you are better than Satin and you stand in front of Satin, Satin will always be with you. This mathematical complex puzzle is shown clearly in the Bible, that’s if you with Faith can unlock this puzzle. I have just made this a little easier for all to understand. Now the hardest task for the human is with all heart and absolute truth, to Love the person that God has made them to be.
As I sit at Gods feet, I sit more on the right foot of God. This way I am sitting comfortably between God and The Word, which is one. (“Jesus sits at the right hand of the Father”)
With Love, Marty The Sage.
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Addiction does not pertain to just drugs. It also is the mind circling in anger trying to understand the passing of a loved one, anger toward self in job loss, feeling personal inadequacy within self toward anything. Place the item in front of self and stand in the Blessing, and great peace will come upon self releasing every yoke that holds self.
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Corinthians 12:7-9
“And least I should be exalted above measure through the abundance of the revelations, there was given to me a Thorn in the flesh, the messenger of Satan to buffet me, lest I should be exalted above measure. For this thing I besought the Lord thrice, that it might depart from me”.
“And he said unto me, My Grace is sufficient for you; for my strength is made perfect in weakness. Most gladly therefore will I rather glory in my infirmities, that the power of Christ may rest upon me.”
(God did not place the thorn in anybody, but God gave it to Satan to perform the act. God will not remove the Thorn for anybody, which includes Jesus)
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2017 - 04:44am PT
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Heaven is like air,
I was raised in the Roman Catholic church where I was taught that heaven will be the most amazing place to be when I die. This heaven and hell setting creates discipline for the individual to do its best while alive in reverence to God, and then heaven will be the ultimate reward in return. Everybody will get a personal mansion, the city streets are made of pure gold, praising God and the Saints in the throne rooms where walls are covered in precious jewels, everybody will be wearing beautiful crowns, the “Treasures of Heaven”, etc.
Besides reverence to God and everlasting Joy, why is anything else necessary once the human body is removed from the soul? “Today you will be with me in paradise” is a statement Jesus made while on the cross to one of the two criminals that were crucified along with Jesus. Churches state this is dining with Jesus at his table. Is this like actually dining on food like humans need for survival of the body, is there bathrooms in heaven as well? If I can create anything I want in heaven by just thinking of it, wheres the challenge and also wheres the enjoyment of it? Is a dictionary even necessary in heaven since a soul in heaven will not be able to fully experience the meaning of the words within?
I truly believe that there is a place my soul is going to travel to once I die, but I am bummed that the church teaches that heaven will be a place that is comparable to earth, and will be filled with earths pleasures. I am bummed that religion pushes teachings that the earth life sucks and heaven rules, which creates inadequacies within people! So many people here on earth heavily wallow in their personal problems and do nothing to improve themselves because they believe they will go to heaven, and there they will have every amazing thing they want. As though they will even have servants feeding them the finest of foods and they will have riches beyond their wildest dreams. But what are the riches needed for especially when in heaven everybody else can have the same as each other. Taking away human greed, selfishness, pride, want, envy, etc, eliminates the souls challenge of necessity, and only leaves it with knowing it was created.
A few months ago I got into a conversation with a friend who stated that this earth place is it and afterwards there is nothing. This was hard for me to wrap my mind around this statement since I was so educated with book information that told a completely different story. But now that I have been gifted to Marty the Sage and understand a greater truth, I see completely what my friend was saying, without question. Now the voice in my head repeats itself stating that “Heaven is like air.” The voice says this over and over and wants me to understand this statement. I can now see why the spiritual Masters on earth encourage humans to do their best to the highest level while present on earth, since when returned to heaven (source) a soul will just be recycled back into another earth body, and this process will happen over and over and over. The more love a person understands and shares in a earth life, the greater love and understanding a person will have in the next.
Now knowing this information, I am bummed for the people that will be disappointed when they go to heaven. In heaven the people will not feel disappointment but joy, but will then see that heaven does not present itself with challenge, and the true objective of the soul will be realized. The soul will beg over and over to have another earth body so the soul can once again experience its world completely. It won’t just beg once, the soul will beg over and over and over and over and over and over and over, thats how much the soul will want to return to earth no matter what body or deformed body it receives. “Heaven is like air.”
Is air male or female? Does air require food? Is air challenged? Does air need a place to rest? Does air need a house or vehicle? Does air hate or like? Does air need friends? Does air require a city with streets made of gold? Does air need light or darkness? Does air require praise? Does air require knowledge? Does air require entertainment? “Heaven is like air.”
The only thing air knows is that it is. So it was created!
I encourage people to live their lives to the fullest while on this earth, and really enjoy being the person that they are created to be. The heaven souls seek this earth life since the soul on earth has the opportunity to completely feel and completely experience. Where once back in heaven, the soul will see that heaven is not the perceived paradise, heaven is like air.
With Love, Marty the Sage
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
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Jan 13, 2017 - 11:20am PT
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Surprised that there are no responses several hours later.
The hypomania was apparent in previous posts and on the increase in recent months. The above ramblings (with moments of brilliance) and grandiosity ("Sage") reflect full-blown mania.
I sincerely hope there is no crash into severe depression as has happened before.
Marty, you won't want to hear these words at this time: hypomania, grandiosity, mania. I write them in the hope that it will be helpful at some point. Honest and direct observations from others who care may be helpful, at the right time.
One may want to reference my previous post on this thread:
(page 3) Jul 8, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1547699&msg=1548647#msg1548647
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Jan 13, 2017 - 12:10pm PT
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Whoa what the hell did I just read???
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Stupid Merican
climber
Crankloon, OH
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Jan 13, 2017 - 11:35pm PT
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So, we're putting the band back together?
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Jan 18, 2017 - 01:20pm PT
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^^^Dood I wish I lived closer to you so you could be my life guru...
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2017 - 03:27pm PT
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^^^Dood I wish I lived closer to you so you could be my life guru...
Brotherbbock - wow cool. If you are having some troubles in life I will love to help. Send me a personal message and we can talk. I am honored with your statement.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2017 - 03:30pm PT
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Does anybody know what company made these shoes, and what year?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2017 - 08:52pm PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 18, 2017 - 10:28pm PT
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Into the light and back but staying in the light.
The shoes remind me of German - Hwang? early 80s , kind'a Scarpa 'Spider' like?
Energy of the present , or validation thru views of what you have amassed, aside,
( your stuff is mesmerizing thnx!)
If you think for every post there are 20 views, the 20-40 people who lurk & post have most likely Clicked your Letter to all climbers.
I've slept in some of the dirt you pioneered.
I've camped in haunted canyons, shared some dread,
and weird experience, not just in camp, while climbing around a plug of desert rock.
Followed by tracks, but never seeing (or smelling anything,)
it more likely was some sort of ' big cat' but we spent a night aware of a presence.
We my climbing partner and I, had the same dreams, three nights in a row. The last nightmare
Was the top of the tent peeling away and 'war painted braves' with scouling countenance
Were staring in with malicious intent. Just before dawn we packed and left the canyon.
Thanx for being you! You can only be the best you if you embrace you and you do!
You do not gnome, but you gno me!
Ps , I left some sticky on the light bulb while I answered. It. cooked to much, but I refuse to see it as the sign it is. . . O none is so blind as one who will not see. . . . The Light!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2017 - 03:52am PT
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Thanx for being you! You can only be the best you if you embrace you and you do!
You do not gnome, but you gno me!
Thanks Gnome! I enjoy being real!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2017 - 03:54am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2017 - 06:28pm PT
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Added another display this morning in the museum at the Phoenix Rock Gym. Presently filling in a open shelf above the bolting display. Left side of the shelf completed, next week the right side will be added. I give a big THANKS to gym owner Paul Diefenderfer for giving me this awesome space in the gym to display the museum!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2017 - 02:55pm PT
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I put together another display for the museum at the Phoenix Rock Gym. This display shows 85 different climbing patches of the overall 150 patches I have in the museum previously.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2017 - 03:04pm PT
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Completed the sign for the Karabin Climbing Museum at the Phoenix Rock Gym.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2017 - 04:48am PT
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“Seeing is Believing,” is only a midway step to overall success.
The saying “Seeing is Believing,” is used by many athletes and individuals as they strive for some form of success. Seeing is believing is not what creates success, but is the hope element that brings forth faith in the individual to reach the goal of success. The seeing can actually be the overall item that keeps individuals from achieving success. Knowing that another person has achieved success as one strives for the same success, can raise the ego which can block achievement of the success. A person needs to go past the seeing to succeed. The opposite of Sight is Faith and Faith is the element which is offered to everybody to achieve success.
Professional climber Joe Czerwinski has been attempting to climb a powerful route up a short rock boulder, which in the rock climbing world is known as a boulder problem. The boulder problem does not require ropes but has a padded flooring to prevent injury in case of a fall. For ten years Joe has traveled to the boulder problem location and has worked every move over and over to achieve climbing this boulder route from bottom to top without a fall. Joe understands how much strength is required to hold each hold, and the sequence puzzle of each move that is required to keep the climber from falling off of the problem.
Applying “Seeing is Believing” to this boulder problem shows Joe that other climbers have achieved success on this problem, and a person being able to climb this problem is possible. If Joe applies the other climbers success to his success, Joe will fail to climb the route since it only gives him hope of success. Failing the hope within oneself can raise the ego and the ego will avoid being seen as failing in others “seeing.” Seeing can create personal inadequacy. This is why many climbers find other projects to work on and do not return to the problems that they have failed on in the past. But in this case, Joe is driven by his faith and he returns year after year knowing that he has the ability to achieve success. Now after ten years and after many dozens of attempts, Joe has succeeded to climb the boulder problem from bottom to top without a fall. It was the Faith within the self that created strength beyond strength, and then achieved the success.
During Joe’s climb, other climbers were cheering Joe on giving him extra encouragement to succeed. But within faith Joe needed no witness and the climbing was a personal achievement, not a group achievement even though others were seeing his success.
When striving for success look deep into the self and believe in the self without the need of “seeing.” Everybody has faith available in their self and this faith can give hope to the others that are still just “seeing.”
Boulder problem location: Hueco Tanks State Park, El Paso Texas.
Name of problem “Try Harder”
Difficulty rating: V9, but more realistic a V10/V11 rating.
Successfully climbed January 2017.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2017 - 08:52pm PT
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A few weeks ago I completed another display shelf in the Karabin Climbing Museum at the Phoenix Rock Gym. I feel really Blessed to have this space where I can share my passion with everybody. Hmmmm what display should I create next.....Hmmmmm.
Also I have been busy painting more fun murals on the gym walls.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2017 - 08:21pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2017 - 08:24pm PT
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AZ Hiking Shack hooked me up with two Patagonia 2016 workbooks. Totally awesome!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2017 - 08:31pm PT
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I had a few bucks in my REI dividend so I scored the new Black Diamond nut tool beer opener. Yes another nut tool for the museum!!! Also I noticed REI has a few new stickers "Force of Nature" which they also sell bandanas to match. I was searching for the Blueberry Picky bar which has a climber on the cover photo by Jon Jonckers, but I only found this All In Almond bar which has a boulderer on the wrapper. I gave it a taste and it tastes really delish! The search continues for the Blueberry Boomdizzle bar!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2017 - 09:43pm PT
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Timid TopRope - Thanks for the props!
I just received the new evolv Adaptive Foot for the Karabin Museum! It is Awesome! The Adaptive Foot was designed by my friend Malcolm Daly, founder of Great Trango Holdings company and Paradox Sports, to be used by lower extremity amputee climbers. The evolv Eldo Z climbing shoe is used with the Adaptive Foot which was also designed by Malcolm Daly and evolv. This summer I hope to see Malcolm and get his signature on this great climbing gem!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2017 - 05:00pm PT
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Made a new Karabin Climbing Museum business card for the 2017 summer OR show.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2017 - 05:02pm PT
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Not sure if anybody noticed but Clif Bar has redesigned their climber packaging artwork.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2017 - 05:11pm PT
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New guide to the Beardsley Boulder pile is hot off of the press. Just in time for the phoenix 110 degree weather.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2017 - 05:13pm PT
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Found a old photo from the late 1990s of Gary Burns, Bill Burns and Marty getting ready to climb Adios Larry in Lower Devils Canyon AZ. I of course am sporting a Jimi Hendrix tshirt.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2017 - 05:27pm PT
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I visited my mom in Ohio for Easter and we made a few Ukrainian eggs. We make them every year so over time we got pretty good creating them. So each egg only takes one to two hours to complete.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2017 - 05:30pm PT
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Entre Prises holds from the early 1990s
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2017 - 05:39pm PT
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Ah yes, found the Picky Bar Blueberry Boomdizzle with the climber on the cover. Photo by Jon Jonckers.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2017 - 05:44pm PT
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I gathered all of the character holds from the museum and put them on the wall at the Phoenix Rock Gym. I didn't realize I had so may shapes.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2017 - 09:29pm PT
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Jim - Thanks for the props. I still want to race my mom with the one hour challenge to see who can create the most detailed egg in that short amount of time. Its a lot of work. I bet my mom will easily win. She knows many shortcuts to achieving great detail.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2017 - 09:32pm PT
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Aug 11, 2017 - 08:46am PT
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Great stuff Marty. You are so talented..in many, many different ways. Power on!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2017 - 08:48am PT
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Roots - Many thanks!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2017 - 08:49am PT
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Outdoor Retailer summer market 2017 review….
(125 photos)
For many many years I have been visiting the Outdoor Retailer show which gave me a opportunity to explore the Salt Lake City area in Utah. I had a great time in Salt Lake City! But now due to controversies between how Utah now views their outdoor public lands value, and the entire outdoor product industry, the show is now being moved to Denver Colorado. This Summer 2017 Outdoor Retailers was the last show in Utah. Many companies did not attend and boycotted the show.
Boycott:
withdraw from commercial or social relations with (a country, organization, or person) as a punishment or protest.
• refuse to buy or handle (goods) as a punishment or protest.
• refuse to cooperate with or participate in (a policy or event).
Many of the companies that did attend and showed their products at the summer Outdoor Retailers show had signage in their display booths referencing their complaint toward Utahs decisions toward public use within their public lands. In my view the North Face was the biggest voice at the show telling all of the outdoor industry that the outdoor world is about the person and not the product. Big applause to the North Face!
………………………………………………………………………………………………………….
Even though many companies boycotted the show, the show was business as usual. Only one Pavilion tent was missing and the main building was filled tight with company booths. This may be due to many new businesses filling the missing businesses booth spaces. If I did not know of the present controversy and if the North Face did not make their huge stance and march toward public lands, I would not have known anything was going on. In fact this was the best show I have attended in the last 10 years of the Outdoor Retailer shows overall. The majority of the businesses were overly generous with their product making sure everybody went home with suitcases of schwag. I was amazed how many companies had poster signings in their booths with the biggest athlete names presently in the media there to greet people. Over a dozen companies asked for my opinion of what I thought of the Outdoor Retailer show being moved to Denver. My response was centered on if there is enough hotels close to the show site to house all of the attendees. How will all of these people get to and from the show and where will everybody park their vehicles? The pre show demos may change since the commute to the ski lodges may be greater distance. Will the climbing PsicoBloc competition wall be moved to Denver? The overall energy at the show was very positive, let me restate that. “The overall energy at the show was very very very positive!”
Martys #1 show choices……….
Best food samples…
Best beer glass…..
Best catalog and show booth…..
This was a 50/50 toss up between Black Diamond and Adidas/Five Ten. The energy was constant at both booths for all four days. I gave the award to Black Diamond since for many years Black Diamond was business as usual, but for this show Black Diamond went above and beyond and welcomed all of the public to be part of their company. The Spring 2018 BD Work Book is a true work of art and a major collectors item. Adidas and Five Ten are now under the same ownership where Adidas was the main element in their booth and Five Ten products were placed out of view far in the back. Big PROPS to Black Diamond!
Best item I obtained at the show…..
I have been bugging Hans Florine for years for a pair of his climbing shoes to be in the Karabin Climbing Museum. Hans surprised me at the show bringing with him the greatest gift I got from the show overall. DMM and Steve Petro donated many fantastic pieces to the museum where I am truly grateful, but Hans was the first person I ran into at the show and after he gave me his gift, I could not stop grinning from ear to ear. Hans donated the pair of his personal ascender Yates foot loops that he used on the Yosemite Nose route speed ascent with Yuji Hirayama, and the Nose speed ascent with Alex Honnold. I am still amazed that I have this fantastic history in my museum. Hans you totally rock! Second place item goes to Steve Petro surprising me on my birthday with his personal Friend-copy camming device he purchased in Kathmandu in 1991. And the third best item from the show goes to Robert Mason with New England/Maxim ropes for his Rope Guide salesman rope samples kit. Fantastic museum items for sure!!!!!
2017 OR show highlights…..
In our hotel room was Jaime Gangi, Nicholas ‘Neo’ Oxentenko, Tiffany Hensley, Chloe Mandell and Marty. Everybody enjoyed my rhythmic snoring.
At the show a company named King Snaps from Taiwan was displaying their climbing goods. Unfortunately they were not selling any of their products. They have a few lines of camming devices and nuts which all are unmarked. One nut however had the word “Vertical” on it. Some of the products looked like copies of gear being sold on the market by other companies, and other items I have not seen before. The greater amount of the gear they were displaying had no company markings on it.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 11, 2017 - 10:24am PT
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while my honeymoon coincided with the release of the Queen Creek Guide ('96-7?) I've not been west In a coons age. . .
thanks for sharing all you score! & taking some of us along as you pappa , ratty thats auto-correct for ya! - PAPARAZZO, PAPARAZZI,
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2017 - 06:52am PT
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Mike - Thanks for the props on my climbing guides!
Gnome - That was a tough photo to take. No matter what angle I shot the photo I was always in the cups reflection. Also trying to get the best lighting for it always left a reflection of the light source. Another reason that Adidas/Five Ten beer cup got first place.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Aug 14, 2017 - 12:31am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2017 - 06:18am PT
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Nutstory - Not sure if you have one of those Thailand cam devices. I have not seen that style before until Steve surprised me with it. I tried to get a few samples of the King Snaps Taiwan cams, nuts, bolts and other items but they were strict on not letting anything be removed from their show booth. I feel that they are looking for somebody to put their name on their produced gear over selling their own gear. It was strange that none of the items had manufacturers marks on it. My friend Neo and I were creative on indiscreetly obtaining photos of the items in their booth. I also got a catalog from them. Also DMM has 2 new large sizes of Dragon cams coming out at the end of this year. Unfortunately I did not get any photos of them. Only 4 days at the show and 2 million things to see and experience. I purchased a new phone just for the show to take photos but I didn't come home with many photos. Great show! One of these years I hope for you to come to the show with me.
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Aug 14, 2017 - 05:11pm PT
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Nice tour of the trade show Marty. thanks for taking the time to post all that.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2017 - 09:00pm PT
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Hubbard - Thanks for the show props!
I found a few photos of the new DMM Dragon cams size 7 and 8 available late 2017.
Photos from the DMM website......
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apoet
climber
AZ
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Aug 15, 2017 - 12:25pm PT
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Hey Marty! Do you have any DB gear in your collection? I have a #3 DB slider nut and would love to more about it. I am assuming the DB is someone's initials.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2017 - 10:04pm PT
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apoet - Sliders with DB on them.........Hmmmmm..........
- DBest Mountaineering - Quickie (c1986 - USA) - available in 6 sizes.
The first generation carabiner loop end is dipped in plastic, and the second generation have plastic tubing for the carabiner loop end. The nut sizes also differ between the generations. The Quickies were created by Don Best.
In the photo below the top row is prototypes which one was donated by Pete Takeda. The far top right is a rare channel Quickie that were never produced donated by John Middendorf. The below set is the first generation (lower left) and second generation (lower right).
apoet - Thanks for your question!
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Aug 16, 2017 - 05:31pm PT
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WOW this is BETTER than being there.. seriously. thanks for posting up all the photos. what about those DMM cable dogbones eh?
EDIT , I think I had better put the Karabin Museum on the visit list! Awesome!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2017 - 12:22pm PT
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After many years of searching and losing auctions on eBay, I finally obtained a 1960s Piton Carrier! Yes!!
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Mad69Dog
Ice climber
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Aug 19, 2017 - 02:06pm PT
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Incredible shots, Marty. Just amazing!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2017 - 07:56am PT
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From nutstory - The following information is taken from two Au Vieux Campeur catalogs, a famous French mail order climbing gear retailer. On the left, catalog 1972, one can see the first generation of the anneau (ring in French); on the right, catalog 1976, the second generation of the anneau. A good friend of mine used the first generation in 1968.
This open ring made in Europe (France?) was used to carry a great deal of pitons on long aid climbs.
From nutstory - I contacted my friend Hermann Huber about the Piton-Carrier. Hermann managed the famous German company Salewa for many years. I am delighted to share Hermann’s reply with you:
The German name HAKENSCHANI was a somewhat strange "artificial" name, composed from Haken = piton + Schani = no meaning in proper German, but a dialect expression of Bavarian-Austrian origin describing a man who may be some sort of server/servil guy/helper (nothing exactly precise). Also… Schani may nearly symbolize german "Scharnier" = pivoting device (sometimes I liked a bit of "word playing").
From nutstory - Here is some more interesting information that I found about the Piton Carrier (Hakenschani). The first generation was invented by H. Strathmann who filed out a Patent on July 14th, 1961 for this piece of climbing gear. Patent number DE1174228B
The climbing gear history buffs also might be interested to know that Bill Forrest filed out a Patent for his PinBin on July 22nd, 1968. Patent number US3563430A
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2017 - 08:09am PT
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The eBay buyer states that these pitons are definitely from 1880-1890 era which I can believe. But I keep looking at them in wonder as of why the piton end is so heavily hammered and the blade shows little scaring. My thoughts are that the pitons were created for the logging industry so the blades were being pounded over and over into green timber and not hard stone. I have a few modern logging pitons that look the same as these ancient relics, which were used to tie logs together into rafts where workers could stand more firmly on as they worked with stray logs being floated down rivers. Also used to assist in tying loads on carts or trucks or other uses with timber. I am sure some of these logging pitons made it into the mountains to serve as main anchor points on the big mountain routes, but I believe they were originally created for the logging industry.
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Aug 28, 2017 - 11:46am PT
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Those relics are really awesome! You alluded to the connection between the logging industry and the first big wall anchors. is there anyone out there who could confirm the connection? It would be a really great historical bridge.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Aug 28, 2017 - 12:07pm PT
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Marty has a great collection.
The connection is credible. You find the same use of tools originally made for other purposes when it comes to early ice axes. Below you see a photo from Gilles Modica's book "Alpinisme - la saga des inventions" showing two similar pitons.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 28, 2017 - 01:59pm PT
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Those relics are really awesome! You alluded to the connection between the logging industry and the first big wall anchors. is there anyone out there who could confirm the connection? It would be a really great historical bridge.
I've seen many of these used in log booms, where they are called "dogs". Your can just pound them into the logs, and they stay put.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2017 - 03:10pm PT
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nutstory - Between you and I we show two different sizes of this gold colored lobes cam device from Thailand. Do you know the name of the company that created these cam devices?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2017 - 03:37pm PT
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Reel Rock Tour 12
I was invited to attend the Sneak Preview Party of the Reel Rock Tour 12 at the summer Outdoor Retailers Show, which was at the end of July 2017. Beer and dinner was served first and then the fun continued in the movie theater. Two films were shown, first of Chris Sharma doing some amazing deep water soloing routes and sending a big project he has been working on, produced by Josh Lowell. Second film was filmed, directed and produced by Cedar Wright of a climber that was all about climbing routes free solo. Totally awesome!!! The great thing about going to the sneak preview is that Chris Sharma attended the party and gave a live speech about the film, Cedar wright talked about the film he created, and Alex Honnold also came forward and gave live commentary on the films. Once again big thanks to the Access Fund for hooking up the museum crew with show passes!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2017 - 10:07pm PT
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Psico Bloc 2017
On one of the nights during the Outdoor Retailers summer show in Utah, the Psico Bloc Masters competition was scheduled and the museum crew attended the event held in Park City Utah. Unlike the past two years no rain was in sight and the night was perfect. The pre event party started and Black Diamond was giving away schwag, posters were being signed by the climbing stars, food and drinks were served and other miscellaneous fun was happening. Black Diamond was one of the main sponsors of Psico Bloc and had a VIP balcony reserved serving free food and drinks. Big props to Black Diamond for all of the fun!!! This was the last year of the Outdoor Retailers Show being in Utah so I am not sure if this is going to effect the future Psico Bloc competitions. A lot of the attendance at the competition was people from the Outdoor Retailers Show. I noticed that this year there was no Psico Bloc schwag being sold. No hats, t-shirts or any memorabilia to take home from this 2017 event. So I had to get creative….the paparazzi never sleeps!
Final results:
Womans Masters: Kyra Condie
Mens Masters: Jimmy Webb
Wall height” 55 feet
Fastest time up the wall: Ben Hanna 41 seconds.
Kyra climbed the route 5 times that evening due to a perfect tie with Alex Puccio
I was able to score a few 2017 Psico Bloc items for the museum: Competitor shirt Jimmy Webb threw down from the wall during his semifinal final heat. A blue staff Psico Bloc shirt, and a Psico Bloc 2016 towel from Joe Kinder. 2017 Comp signage, comp poster and VIP comp pass. Once again it was a great time attending the Psico Bloc event! Big PROPS to Chris Sharma and the entire crew that put together and ran this awesome climbing event!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2017 - 02:50pm PT
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--Smash and dash at the KARABIN MUSEUM
It is great to have stuff in life but at the same time stuff doesn’t seem to last. Monday 9/28 I came home from work to find my house trashed. Somebody in the afternoon broke in through the back bedroom window and went through every cabinet and drawer in the house. All of my electronic stuff was stolen. A backpack of climbing gear also stolen and 8 baseball card frames filled with 175 climbing cards was taken as well. The thief must have been mesmerized looking at my 20,000+ pieces of gear on the walls and didn’t know what to do with it so the climbing museum gear survived!!! Unfortunately all of my data supporting the museum is now lost. I had a few external backups of the info but those were stolen as well. Yesterday I purchased a new computer in hope that the iCloud system worked and iCloud hardly saved anything more than what was on my phone. So the last 10 years of 38,000 photos on iPhoto of my kids growing up and the museum and all video etc is completely gone. Over the last two years I spent thousands of hours making lists of the gear I have in the museum and shooting photos. Now the process starts over from scratch. At least I have the kids and the gear so all is great in that respect. Just feels like a lot of time lost sitting at a computer. I don’t believe the thief was a climber otherwise more climbing stuff would be missing. The thief probably thought the climbing cards were collectable baseball cards.
The key item here is the 175 climbing cards of which the majority was signed. Besides the cards that already have signatures on them, listed as “autograph” cards, the other non autograph cards that have autographs on them should be a key indication that they probably came from my museum. If anybody sees these cards please get in contact with me. The police were notified saying that other houses in the neighborhood have also been broken into recently and they have a few leads on who the thieves are, but no arrests yet. Once again I moved the museum into a storage building to hide from the world. Sucks to have this much history and not have a big secure place to show it. Someday!
karabin714@gmail.com
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sep 25, 2017 - 06:41am PT
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Whoa- that totally blows. I can't imagine how much time it took to photograph and catalog all that stuff. Hopefully over time you can recreate the data .
You should place some ads in local ( non climbing) newspapers or media for the cards. And stalk eBay for the next year. Chances are the thief will have trouble pawning the cards and may just ditch them- hopefully where someone can return them if they know who is looking for them.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Sep 25, 2017 - 07:26am PT
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I hope the thief/thieves realize how short-sighted it is to steal from a museum. Maybe then the cards reappear.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2017 - 08:15am PT
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Two weekends ago I completed my ice pitons and screws display. On Monday morning I took the display to the gym and installed it in the display box in the Karabin Museum. Monday after work is when I came home to my house being broken into. Luckily for me this display was not still sitting on my kitchen table when the thieves were shopping in my house. This display shows early ice pitons and ancient crampons. I have a bunch of old full size crampons and other ice gear but I didn't have enough display space to show them for now. Over the last two weeks after the break in it was hard to get motivated to even look at the museum. I felt like somebody cut my legs off! Slowly I am getting my inspiration back as I am recollecting images and creating information for the museum with my new computer. Moving forward.........
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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Curious, what happened to some of the posts on this page? After Marty's discovery of the unfortunate break-in there were quite a few heartfelt words expressed, including one of mine, I noticed is gone now. Weird, how can your own posts disappear?
Glad to see you're back at it though and moving on.
Arne
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2017 - 11:48am PT
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ionlyski - I think you posted on another Supertopo thread named "Smash and dash at the Karabin Museum." Thanks much for the energy!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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TFPU!
Great to see the old ice screws, pitons and crampons. All the time I'm learning something new...
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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Aw, so it was Marty. I thought I was going crazy for moment but it was only alzheimer's.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2017 - 07:36pm PT
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Ian Jewell - Wow really cool and beautifully organized! I thought I was a little extreme keeping everything of climbing, but that display is really unique!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2017 - 07:40pm PT
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I recently ordered a littleHammer nut tool from Australia. Cant wait to put it to the test!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2017 - 08:40am PT
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A friend hooked me up with another Faza brush for Christmas. Check out the Faza website and see the passion that goes into these brush creations.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2017 - 08:43am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2017 - 08:49am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2017 - 08:52am PT
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Dec 31, 2017 - 08:56am PT
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Great Marty, best collection ever!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2018 - 07:24pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2018 - 07:30pm PT
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Thanks everybody for the museum props!
My babies are now all grown up! The Karabin kids
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2018 - 07:30pm PT
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2017 Adventure Trip
For years the paper was hanging on the wall in view, but I didn’t pay much attention to it. Other employees mentioned they went on adventure trips, but I didn’t know it was a Phoenix Rock Gym Adventure Trip. One of the cool things about Paul Diefenderfer, the owner of the Phoenix Rock Gym, is that once you have worked a certain amount of hours, you are eligible to go on a adventure trip of your choice, and Dief will give you a few hundred dollars to show pics and write about the adventure. Sweet! So over the summer I went on a 4 day trip to California to visit four different locations. This was my adventure….
Destination One: Patagonia Clothing Company Corporate
As a climbing gear historian one of my biggest dreams was to be inside the Chouinard tin shed in Ventura CA. In Gods miraculous ways one thing suddenly lead to another and next thing you know I am the honored guest standing in the building of where the “Big Bang” of American climbing gear all began. Yes Ventura California at the original Chouinard Equipment tin shed, Great Pacific Iron Works, Patagonia Clothing company.
Terri Laine and Val Franco with the Patagonia Archives put together a incredible three day dream trip for me. On top of being wined and dined, I got the complete tour of every building on the Patagonia clothing property. My first impression of the many people I met during the tour is that everybody was genuinely happy and it was very noticeable! I want to someday work at the Patagonia Clothing Company so I can walk around smiling all of the time! Terri showed me all of the amazing displays she has put together for Patagonia over the years. She is quite talented! It really made me psyched to create more displays for my museum. Between the Patagonia Corporate tour and the tour of the Patagonia Archives and the dozens of hands I shook and the constant history all around me, I was totally spinning by the end of the night! And that was just the first six hours of my three days with them!
The next day the fun continued! Digging through the Archives and holding so many amazing company artifacts. The items I was most mesmerized with is all of the old Chouinard and Patagonia posters, company advertisements, promotional trinket items, signs, and so many pieces of clothing…..faint! Yes it was a lot to be within!!!! Then Terri took me to the Tin Shed. At first we took photos of us standing in front of the shed, and one of the requirements of the adventure trip is to take photos of the Phoenix Rock Gym banner at the location of the adventure. Yes I picked the Chouinard Tin Shed as that photo location. I was totally in awe standing at the big sliding door at the shed, but then Terri surprised me further and pushed on the side door and it was open. (Actually she secretly got the company president approval to unlock it just before we arrived at the shed).
You can’t just “walk” into the shed. The first view you see is the entire shop just as it looks in the history books. It is so awesome that the shop was kept original, dirty and intact. As the Archives honored guest I was allowed to photograph and touch anything while in the shed. Terri and I were in there for probably an hour and many times I found myself tearing up from the experience. The old Chouinard factory photographs themselves gives the viewer a feeling of rich history. Now add the smell of the old shop, the feel of the hammer in your hand, knowing you are standing in the place where many historic climbing characters worked, but also called home.
During the Patagonia visit, Val did a two hour interview with me where by coincidence Julio Varela stopped by and joined in with the interview. Then the fun continued and we all went to lunch. Julio is a really amazing person and he fully entertained us with many Chouinard stories from the golden years.
At the end of my stay with the Patagonia Archives, Terri, Val and I talked about relocating my Chouinard display to the Archives. At the beginning of 2018 the Chouinard display was going to be dismantled, boxed up and put back into storage anyways. For now everything looks positive and hopefully by the end of January, Terri and Val will the new caretakers of the Chouinard segment of the Karabin Museum. I feel really honored that part of the Karabin Climbing Museum is going into Yvon’s world!
My first props goes to God for writing this inspirational vacation into my journey! Many Many thanks to Patagonia for fulfilling one of my biggest dreams as a gear historian. Many thanks to Terri and Val for welcoming me into their world. Many thanks to Terri and Alex for sharing their wonderful home with me. It was hard to leave Ventura, but that was just the first location of four I have on my adventure trip.
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Destination Two: The Beach
From Ventura I drove the coastal highway back to LA. It was great to see the beautiful ocean which was my second destination on my adventure trip. Hang out on the beach for a few hours, feel the sand in my toes and listen to the ocean waves. It’s been many years since I have touched the ocean. So peaceful!
From the beach I continued South on the coastal highway and then I hit the LA traffic. What an experience! Driving 5-10 miles an hour for the next 2 1/2 hours in route to Santa Ana. My morning destination is Sender One climbing gym Santa Ana. I figured I can shower in the morning at the gym so I attempted to sleep in the rental car but it was terrible! I eventually ended up getting a hotel room for the night.
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Destination Three: Sender One Climbing Gym
There are two Sender One climbing gyms near LA. One in Hawthorne and one in Santa Ana. I was planning on stopping at them both but due to the super heavy LA traffic, I felt it was better to get further away from LA and plan a early morning session at the Santa Ana location. This was my final day in California where I had to drive back to Burbank to catch a 5PM plane home to Arizona, and I still had one more stop after Sender One before getting to the Airport.
Wow the gym opens at 6AM and was busy! The morning climbers cleared out by 8AM and I had the gym mostly to myself. I love the great outdoor crags, but also I love visiting rock gyms! It expands my ideas of what to do and what not to do at the gym I work at. Sender One is Awesome! Huge workout area with a separate Yoga room and the gym is packed with fun! The kids climbing area is fantastic! If my kid was having a birthday, Sender One is where its at! The kid climbing structures are so exciting that seeing the rest of the gym had to wait. The reserved kid climbing area is built similar to the amazing “Clip & Go” gym in Switzerland.
I bouldered around for a few hours and got a tour of the insides of the structures with one of the course setters. Each gym seems to have their own system to the climbing. Sender one is course set by hold color and has info cards at the start of the routes. The card shows the rating, course setters initials, and also included is fun wordage. The climbing walls looked amazing! What was really cool is that the tips of the aerie features continually changed color from the floor to the ceiling. I got a few pics with the Rock gym banner to add to my adventure trip story, and off to my final destination. Thanks for the fun Sender One!
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Destination Four: Evolv Corporate
Compared to Arizona, California is quite developed. There are so may people, buildings and cars everywhere! If my phone wasn’t instructing me on where to go, I would be totally lost! Tucked away back in a Buena Park industrial park I finally arrived at my destination. Heck yeah Evolv corporate!!!! I entered the building expecting confetti sparklers or something…..but it was silent. Like nobody around. However on the table next to the front door I notice there is a photo of Justin, Myself and Robert displayed! Now that’s true sponsor Love!
I waked back further in the building and hooked up with the big guys of Evolv; Kiyoshi, Jacob Jefferies, and Brian Chung. From there then the confetti and sparklers were happening!!! Full tour of the company, warehouse, Yosemite Bum resole department, and I saw a lot of shoes!!! I am amazed on how many hundreds of shoe style ideas and prototypes Brian has created. That’s total Passion! I have been with Team Evolv for 9 years now, and it was really really exciting to visit my sponsors home!
After the tour I went back and hung out with the guys that were resoling the shoes for Yosemite Bum. I must say these guys weren’t fooling around and were ripping through the shoes at an amazing pace. These guys knew every trick with every shoe of every manufacturer and knew the size of every part and piece of the shoes. I know its a job but dang I gotta give props to these guys for their skills! I was able to get some shoe sole samples from the cobblers, stickers from the shipping department, complimentary pair of shoes, then they piled on banners, signs, t-shirt schwag until my bags were so filled I wasn’t sure if my bags were overweight to get on the plane! Patagonia also gave me a lot of stuff to take home…..”Struggle of the reward!!!” Many thanks to Brian and Evolv for the fun, and sponsoring me all of these years! Evolv rules!
So that was four days of my life in August. From Evolv it was returning the rental car and flying out of Burbank CA back to sunny Phoenix. Dang there were a lot of cars and people in Burbank as well!!!! After this adventure, rush hour in Arizona does not bother me at all! Good stuff! Big THANKS to the Patagonia Archives and Paul Diefenderfer for funding my Adventure trip……Lets’s do it again!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Marty.
Extremely cool to see Chouinard's old workplace and tools. Keep them well. It's a treasure. TFPU!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Exceptional Marty, really exceptional!
Thank you for all these posts!
Stéphane
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2018 - 10:44am PT
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Marlow - nutstory - Dingus Milktoast: Thanks for the props!
I am a happy spiritual guy who most of the time is running around acting like a giddy teenage girl, but no kidding, at Patagonia corporate almost everybody I shook hands with was just as Giddy as me. It was that noticeable, and it continually felt welcoming! Props to the Patagonia staff!
I redid a bunch of the Chouinard display boards which I will share before the Chouinard display moves to Patagonia.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Marty! Thanks for taking the time to share your adventure. That Patagonia tour was "the bomb!"
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Great, Marty!!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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I could visualize Hennek and the rest of that old crew in the shop, Marty.
Let me say that the one day I worked cutting spooled Chouinard ropes to length for Tom Frost in the old Iron Works was a memory I'll always treasure and your tour of the shed brought it back vividly.
Keep on having great fun, you kook!
--Mouse
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2018 - 06:44am PT
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Thanks everybody for your energy!
mouse from merced - While I was at the Patagonia Archives Julio suddenly said to me, "hold on a minute I have to call my Macho Man friend." Once his friend was on the line Julio handed me the phone and it was Dennis Hennek. Dennis verbally gave me props on my Supertopo posts. I am very excited for Val and Terri for the Patagonia/Chouinard history they are preserving, and the many climbing legends that are excited to be a part of it.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2018 - 07:15pm PT
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Patagonia schwag..........
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candace gossen
Sport climber
Denver, CO
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Hey Marty! Trying to locate all you dirtbags from the old days in Az. Its Candace from REI, old PRG days! Saw you posted a photo of Jim Waugh, just sent him an email in Thailand, came back. Is he in Phoenix? Greg Varela in your radar? Would love to make a trip down and do some climbing in Az end of Feb. if weather holding! Would love to climb with you all again. Candace
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2018 - 09:35pm PT
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Candace! - Jim Waugh moved back to the USA and works for me at the Phoenix Rock Gym. Greg moved to somewhere in Colorado. Good times!
karabin714(at)gmail.com, on Facebook too
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2018 - 08:52pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2018 - 08:55pm PT
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I went back through all of my Holubar pitons and made sure all have the Holubar stamp. This is what I have in the museum. I wired the Holubar pitons to clear plexiglass and put them in the new schwag display at the Phoenix Rock Gym.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2018 - 08:57pm PT
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New schwag display at the Phoenix Rock Gym in the Karabin Climbing Museum. The line of Holubar pitons is on the right side.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Apr 30, 2018 - 09:19pm PT
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Marty!
You get a triple "WOW" for the Holubar piton collection.
Thank you for sharing that collection.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2018 - 06:29pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2018 - 06:43pm PT
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xCon - My Wife is friends with all of the high dollar local photographers in town. I keep considering creating a gear calendar someday.
For now its iPhone 8 quality.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 19, 2018 - 07:04pm PT
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Marty! Those are awsome photos.
I am amazed that you not only have collected all that iron-ware, but you also identify & date it, catalog & display it.
I suspect you have still more pitons than are in the photos.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2018 - 08:07pm PT
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Fritz - Thanks! - Yes this photo shows only half of the pitons in the museum. The Holubars are in the display at the rock gym and the Chouinard's are in Ventura, plus the pitons in the bolting display at the gym, and a few more boxes in storage. Plus recently Warren Hardings 1970s rack was just donated. Im thinking my next museum display will be pitons.
:)
I did include one Dolt piton in the photo
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2018 - 09:02pm PT
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While I was at the American Mountaineering museum in Golden, a few photos were delivered by a unknown person. Sharing celebration photos of Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell on the summit of El Capitan, Yosemite, after making the first ascent of Dawn Wall, aka The Wall of Early Morning Light in November 1970.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2018 - 03:40pm PT
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A few days after my return from Colorado, Dief the Phoenix Rock Gym owner handed me a box of gear donated by his friend KC......who just happened to be friends with Warren Harding. In the box was some of Hardings rack from the 1970s. Totally awesome! Big THANKS KC!
Since the letter reflects two owners of the gear, I will keep the overall gear together to show Hardings and KCs friendship.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2018 - 09:37pm PT
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xCon - Believe it or not that SMC rap ring on a wire is a Lowe Alpine Systems 1976 belay device. Totally sketch for sure! Look at the photo how the wires first attach to the carabiners and then the rope totally rides over the wire. Crazy! They later added a small tube of aluminum to cover the swag to protect the rope, but what about the rope wear agains the wire on the carabiners? Hmmmm.....
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2018 - 04:00pm PT
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These two photos are for Don Lauria specifically.
When I first started collecting gear I fell in love with the Dolt story of his life and his whimsical ways. My collection foundation was all about Bill Feurer - the Dolt. Don Lauria supplied me with some of Dolts personal items and to this day they are my greatest treasures. But what was out there to find was a mint condition Dolt piton collection that went missing that Don continually talked about with me. As time went on I found many many awesome non-Dolt gear treasures, but yet Dolt products was the main items on my mind continuously, even to this day.
In 2009 when I broke my leg I created the Supertopo “Marty Karabin’s Message To All Climbers” thread, where my life was falling apart and at the same time I met God. God insisted for me to give the museum away and that is how I will become balanced once again. I asked many people to take the museum and everybody thought I was crazy. I had nobody to give the museum to as God insisted….so I gave it to God. God said I did well, and from then on I was just the librarian while God did the work managing the museum. Please hear me out.
Next thing I know gear was being donated to the museum from everywhere, and the gear was one amazing treasure after another, and it is still escalating greater and greater every day. At the same time it is not over toppling me, and cataloging the museum items as they come it is actually easy for me to accomplish. I am not spending time to search and search and be greedy that I must have everything, in fact, I am not looking for anything, just keeping up with what God is delivering. But yet the foundation is still Dolt products.
A few post previous to this one on the Dolt Stories Supertopo thread I mention my recent visit with Michael Chessler, where I went to check out his historic book business world, and he mentioned he has climbing gear that he could use help identifying. As it turns out he has lots of climbing gear, and the lots he doesn’t even remember where it all came from. It was a great visit and Michael and I totally connected. Within Michaels pile of gear was a box of Dolt products, and the products included Dolts personal 1950s rack and a set of mint condition polished Dolt pitons…..yes the historic missing set, 11 of the 12 pitons, missing is the Fan Blade. I couldn’t believe what I was holding.
On the last day of my visit with Michael I put of pile of gear on Michaels table that I was interested in and Michael was so generous donating over 100 items to the museum…..for free. Incredible generosity!!! Some of the items were pitons from Dolts original 1950s rack. I was in awe. But when it came to the mint condition Dolt piton set Michael asked me which piton was the least valuable, and that one I will give to you. The energy right then suddenly shifted, and I was well aware of it. It was like everything Michael just gave me didn’t matter. The only thing that mattered was the Dolt piton set. Michael and I talked for a while about it so he let me trade the least desired item for the third best item, in my opinion. But still that was not enough for my thoughts. It felt as though I was completely cheated, and my emotions while Michael was not around, was trying to contain my tears.
I called my friend Robert asking for his help. I was not sure what was going on with me. Next paragraph is from a previous post above in the Dolt thread…..
“My friend Robert calmed me down stating that the Karabin Museums main driving force was proving the existence of the missing Dolt polished items of which I was presently holding in my hands and was basically in shock. So the question is placed forward of: if I did land the polished Dolt items, would the Karabin museum continue? In the movies, if Tomb Raider girl held onto Pandoras box instead of putting it back, there would be no more adventures for her because that item was her main drive. All other adventures would become lesser.”
The following few days was the Outdoor Retailers show where I was with my friend Neo. I totally love the OR show, but at this show I commented to Neo that there is nothing in this entire building that is greater than the gifts Michael had already gave me. The show became just the show, and my “A” game was not present….I still had lots of fun, however, it was apparent to me that the recent Dolt find took away my intense interest in all other products.
Two days ago I was catching up with my spiritual studies which I keep up with Guru Matt Kahn, who has many YouTube video teachings. Every YouTube segment of Matt Kahn is exquisite high level teachings. I love them all! On Matts most recent teaching he explains the power that drives and gives energy to a persons foundation. I felt like this was a total coincidence since I just, and still am, experiencing this situation. Matt explains that if the item the foundation is driving from is obtained or realized, this could lead to the diminishing of the driving energy, which creates a break in “purpose” and can lead to catastrophe to that person. Matt continues to explain that in many cases God steps in and purposely denies the item to be obtained, so that life will remain with “purpose.”
In a good way to me it shows that God wants my museum to continue, otherwise, if the museum no longer made sense because the driving energy was stopped, hopefully I have some other thing that holds my interest or I will no longer want to exist because of loss of “purpose.” It is interesting because William “Dolt” Feurer had this same driving energy, but his was surrounded with pride, and once realization came to full view, he may of had nothing else to latch onto as he lost “purpose” and he took his life in 1971.
Matt Kahn continues on to say that once the understanding is fully in place, the item that one most seeks will be allowed, but that is only through God allowing it. So I still have a chance of obtaining the Dolt piton set, but that will only happen when I for sure have a change in foundation, which continues “purpose.” I know that Harding mentioned that Dolt would quote the Bible a lot during the Nose Route FA, but when Dolt fell into his realization, he didn’t seem to have a strong connection to the divine. I know I have a very strong connection to the divine, but yet I still fell into the same trap.
Lots of Love and big PROPS to God for denying the deal, which keeps the Karabin Museum going strong!!!
Big PROPS to Michael Chessler…..for everything!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2019 - 06:16pm PT
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Colorado Mountain Industries - CMI history
Through a ebay sale I met Ken Macke, who formally worked for CMI back in the 1970s. A few months ago Ken sent me this fantastic historical document titled, “My Time At Colorado Mountain Industries - Cincinnati, Ohio 1973-1977.” Enjoy…..
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2019 - 06:25pm PT
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Very cool stuff - Dolt, CMI and RR.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2019 - 12:51pm PT
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 10, 2019 - 03:07pm PT
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Marty! Thanks again for all you do. I have been waiting for good information on the history of CMI. Your finding the original employee & his company history is "The Bomb!"
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter
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Feb 10, 2019 - 03:16pm PT
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Loved those things. If anyone has one to spare, me want.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2019 - 07:08am PT
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Feb 12, 2019 - 07:26am PT
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I have that blue hex!
Marty you should put a book together of your collection!
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CMI gearguy
Trad climber
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Feb 12, 2019 - 11:21pm PT
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I think this thread, in its entirety, is the BOOK!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2019 - 07:07am PT
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There are many great threads on Supertopo Forum about climbing gear.
Chouinard Gear Mystery Questions
Dolt Stories
Mixed Nuts, new climbing gear display
Worlds Greatest Bolt Hanger Thread
Old Mystery Pro
L'Equipement de l'Alpiniste 1900
etc
etc
etc
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2019 - 07:08am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2019 - 07:10am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2019 - 07:12am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2019 - 07:14am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2019 - 05:02pm PT
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| Messages 1 - 558 of total 558 in this topic |
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