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fresh pow
Boulder climber
phoenix
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 23, 2011 - 09:14pm PT
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I know that the choice of climbing shoes is a subjective one. I have always climbed in Boreal shoes but I am now considering bailing on them and going with Sportivas or Five Tens, for two reasons. Boreal is totally absent in the climbing media and they are almost impossible to find. Any thoughts or sugestions about performance or availability? Thnks.
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Brian
climber
California
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Mar 23, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
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I'd pay $150 or more for a new pair of the original Aces. Best shoe I've ever worn.
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Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
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Mar 23, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
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JT Nomad has a sweet pair of Spiders in the consignment bin. Practically brand new. 70 bucks I think.
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Mar 23, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
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I was under the impression that there is no North American distributor for Boreals. At least that's what I was told at a few Canadian shops when looking to pick up a pair a few years back. They generally fit my feet pretty well, so I was rather disappointed.
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Brandon-
climber
Done With Tobacco
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Mar 23, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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This disappoints me. My Aces were one of the best pair of shoes I have ever had.
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JMC
climber
oilfields of Sumatra
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Mar 23, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
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Brian - what size? If 8UK/9US, let's talk...
Great shoes, but their rubber was inconsistent and usually sh!t (breakthrough sticky rubber of the 1980s excepted.) Early batches of Fusion S2 were awesome, but after that? hard, slick, worthless. I would buy a pair, then send them to Rock and Resole for C4 to make them usable. No idea what their current, "FS-Quattro" is like.
Aces, Indos, Lasers - bitchin'.
Current lineup is here - http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 23, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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I have a pair of unclimbed-in Aces, still virgin new. Prolly size 43 or 44. Interested?
Also a similar pair of Fires.
Boreal shoes just don't fit my feet that well.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Mar 23, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
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I've bought four pairs of nearly new or unused Aces off ebay the last couple of years. Resole with some C4 and they are still awesome shoes!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 23, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
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I've become the Imelda Marcos of climbing shoes trying to find a suitable shoe, now that Mariacher's aren't very available. I like the fit of my Mythos, but they aren't stiff enough to fit my edging style of climbing; I have both Tradmasters and TC Pros that I need to break in and see if they'll get me where I need to go.
I have a very narrow foot, and my big toe is longest toe. No arch remaining after the Army got done with me.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
The Seas of Stone.
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Mar 23, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
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I find the newer five tens are more my foot shape.
I wore all sorts of Boreals before. Loved my Ballets.
Meh.
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fresh pow
Boulder climber
phoenix
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
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I would like to see them have a presence in American climbing. I look at what shoes climbers are wearing in pictures because that says a lot. Everyone wears Sportivas. So are there performance issues? Is the FS Quatro rubber any good? I know Boreal has been good in the past. So are they good now and in the future?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Mar 24, 2011 - 12:17am PT
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Boreal is all over Europe and seems common enough in the UK. Don't know about Canada.
Just not competing hard in the US market.
Scarpa and Mammut and Red Chili are also much easier to find in Europe. Just as you don't see a lot of Evolv or Acopa in Europe.
It isn't easy to find the e-tail section on Boreal's website-- not surprising Del couldn't find it.
But the rest of the website itself is actually pretty useful-- good 360s, an unusually helpful sizing guide, and mostly easy to use
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JMC
climber
oilfields of Sumatra
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Mar 24, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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So are they good now and in the future? Yes, in the future, Boreal will own the media. The monkeys will be sending in only Boreals. In a push. no dabs.
And everyone will eat at Taco Bell.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
The Seas of Stone.
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Mar 24, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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Beak, beak, hook, free move.
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fresh pow
Boulder climber
phoenix
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2011 - 12:41am PT
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Boreal. World domination? That's cool. Taco Bell? Gag. Yes MT I am a mindless consumer that will follow pretty girls in rock shoes over the abyss into sweet oblivion. My real concern is the perfomance of Boreal rock shoes and what the climbing community thinks of them. I am interested in honest opinions.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Mar 24, 2011 - 01:20am PT
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Man I miss my Vectors!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Mar 24, 2011 - 01:31am PT
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I have pair of 1985 Fires for sale $50. Size 9 US. Barely used. The rubber is a bit dried so a rebuild with C4 is in order.
I'm keeping the size 9 Ballet Points rebuilt with C4. I seem to use them as loaners to friends all the time.
I still have my Fire Cats. Going in for their 5th rebuild soon.
Boreal seems to make shoes that fit my narrow feet better than others. 5.10s are too wide for me but the rubber is beyond compare.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Mar 24, 2011 - 02:30am PT
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John Bachar and Mike Graham were the original US distributors of Boreals. They parted ways and one of my buddies from high school, and a friend of Mike's, Steve West, took over as US distributor.
If I am not mistaken, Mike used the money from his share of the sale of the distributorship to start the original Gramicci line. Maybe Mike can fill in the details.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 24, 2011 - 10:05am PT
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If you live near Boulder, Neptune Mountaineering carries them.
I got my last pair from them a year or so ago. . .
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Grayarea
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 24, 2011 - 10:38am PT
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The Joker!!
Those green and black aces!! I will never forget getting my 1st pair, what a up-grade from my sloppy lose classics. Spent the next 2 days in Little Cotton Wood Canyon, Firing off routes a full grade higher!!Was like going from a VW bug to a sports car- was able to stand on those 5.11 small holds and smears.
Used to have a tight pair, and a lose pair for longer routes. Tired a newer pair off Ebay, and the heal cup, and my ankle DID NOT get along. At least I sold them for more than I paid.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Mar 24, 2011 - 10:39am PT
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There are plenty 'o Boreals around here. Some of the current models look pretty good. I haven't tried any for about a decade now, rubber was not competitive a while ago.
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles
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Mar 24, 2011 - 11:29am PT
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Go for some Sportiva's.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 24, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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I'll second the "black roasters" and shitty rand sentiments, but I love Boreals anyway. I picked up a pair at Alpenglow in Tahoe City a couple of years ago. I assume they still carry them.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 24, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
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Here's an interesting quote; made to me in 1961 by Layton Kor...
...a GOOD climber can climb in mukluks.
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Mar 24, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
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Mountain Tools still has Boreals in their catalog.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Mar 25, 2011 - 02:17am PT
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Nice, JMC! Nobody picked up on the Demolition Man reference.
-N
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fresh pow
Boulder climber
phoenix
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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Everone, thanks for the posts. I too have fond memories of climbing in Boreal shoes. To be fair, they were always eventually resoled with 5.10 rubber. I just wanted to assess the current opinions about Boreal. My Crux's rubber feel hard, stiff and slick. I am an SoCal traditionalist at heart and Boreals are what you climbed in. No questions asked. I am optimistc that Boreal will reassert their former supiriority in the future. Maybe if this thread keeps going someone from Boreal will notice.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 29, 2011 - 01:37am PT
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"sportiva and five-ten have just about muscled out most of the other makers when it comes to shelf space in bricks-and-mortar. "
Not entirely accurate :)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 29, 2011 - 01:45am PT
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Mariacher (SP?) now designs for Scarpa. I've been super happy with the Force's as a smearing/softer shoe. Love 'em. If you have a narrow foot and liked the Aces try the Vapors.
I understand one wanting to continue with a brand that you have had good experiences with, but a lot of these new shoes coming out are pretty groovy.
As far as who you see climbing in what, it has to do with several things. The largest being money. Sportiva has a great budget to pay climbers to wear their shoes, so they have a few more sponsorship deals with some of the bigger names out there. Before this discussion devolves into corporate sell-outs, just know that what a sponsored world-class climber gets from a major shoe brand is.... very, very little. Like, enough to pay for gas money.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Mar 29, 2011 - 01:55am PT
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Not entirely accurate :)
maybe not in yr retail space.
but good luck finding a real selection of boreals or scarpas or acopas or evolvs or mammuts or red chilis etc. in any serious selection of models or sizes in any of the major retailers in my (large) metro west coast hood.
i personally have never seen any of the new scarpa line other than technos. i've never seen a pair of acopa slippers. the only legends i've seen were at wheeler and wilsons (aside from my pair), even though that model is a revision of a boreal shoe (ace) beloved on this forum and esp. well suited to many styles of west coast climbing. i have never seen a pair of merlins (climbing editor's choice two years ago) in a local store, even though i (and many of us) know the guy who used to be the regional rep.
i don't want this to be a slam on mom'n'pop boutiques, cuz i know the pressure they're under. and the net gives choices to those who can afford to order multiple pairs and pay return postage. nor a slam on the makers, esp. since i've had bro/pro deals from at least three of them.
but just anecdotally, i'd bet that 510/sportiva account for a minimum of 50% of stock in my metro area on the west coast.
exception for gym supplies of mad rocks for rentals/noobs/blowback.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 29, 2011 - 02:10am PT
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Sportiva and 5.10 are pretty big, for sure. Not including approach shoes, hiking boots etc right now in my shop I am carrying...
5.10
Grandstone
Siren
Anasazi LV
Anasazi Velcro
Anasazi Lace
Anasazi Moccasym
Coyote Velcro
Coyote Lace
Fox
Rock Wrench
Dragon
Sportiva
Miura VS
Miura VS Lady
Mythos
Mythos Lady
Miura
TC Pro
Solution
Nago
Evolv
Talon
Optimus Prime
Pontas
Bandit
Elektra
Defy
Quest
Shaman (on the way! yay!)
Venga
Red Chili
Urban Climber
Spirit Lace
Spirit Velcro
Scarpa
Techno
Techno lady
Force
Vapor (backordered another month ><
Freestyle
Thunder
Booster
:D
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Mar 29, 2011 - 02:27am PT
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^^^^^^^
idk yr shop but i'd guess socal boutique since that's evolv's base.
u work for bruce?
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fresh pow
Boulder climber
phoenix
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2011 - 02:40am PT
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Mountain Tools has made room for the newer models of Boreals shoes in their online offerings. Not too long ago, I asked a local retailer about Boreal and they said that their dealings with the Boreal rep were less than friendly, or difficult and thus, no Boreals where I live. Don't know much more about it. The question remains tho. Only one or two posters have commented on the FS Quatro rubber. Does anyone have experience with recent .boreal shoes, positive or negative?
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fresh pow
Boulder climber
phoenix
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2011 - 02:49am PT
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BTW GDavis, good comment.
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couchmaster
climber
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Dec 30, 2015 - 09:44am PT
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Got an REI gift card for Christmas, checked in and see that REI has Joker Plus for $68 and change. Since I figure it's $40 and change to resole, depending on how bad I screwed them up, I figure $68 for a workout shoe is a good price. I grab my boy and we zip over to the local REI and man oh man the Joker shoes were the best fitting pair of shoes I may have ever tried on. Ever.
I pull up Chris's outdoor gear lab and they don't list a single Boreal shoe. Not one. My last experience with the Boreals was real positive, but it was a pair of the Fires JB was peddling, so it's been a while for me. So the questions I'm left with are thus:
1st) Do these things stretch? If so, I'm gonna buy the next size down as well and when these grow big, will make them my winter shoe and wear socks.
2nd) Rubber. Should I just resole the quattro rubber now, or wait till it wears out. Its raining up here and I won't be able to check them on real rock for a while I'd imagine.
BTW, after hearing my history lesson on how the original Fires blew the doors off everything else, my son asked if everyone just surpassed the original Boreal rubber, or if they actually came out and tried to market a crappier product. I'm thinking the former. Wish Bachar was around, he'd know.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 30, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
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^^^Makes 4 of a kind if you're using Jokers and I'm out, Walleye. Congrats.
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