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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
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I am looking to get some shoes for climbing cracks, OW, slabs etc. I had nagos/mythos, and they are pretty good I thought. But is there any high top shoes that would be as good...I saw some good high top La Sportivas but they were 170$ *sad face*
I could just tape them ankles for OW 'fun' but if there are shoes that would eliminate that need, why not..
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jfailing
Trad climber
Terrible Taft
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
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The Sportiva TC Pro's rule. Worth the $170. Check the gear reviews on this site, mostly everyone seems to like them a lot.
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drc
Trad climber
Durham, NC
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
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Mythos is the best all around shoe I've had.
The thin toe profile rocks in smaller sized cracks. They smear great and edge ok. But then again I don't climb harder than mid 10.
True, they quickly lose their allure as the crack sizes get bigger, but I found it worth it to have to tape ankles/wear socks, for the all day comfort.
That said, they do wear out fairly quickly, especially the shoelaces around the toes.
V
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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I tried on all known high tops I could find in 3 states. The TC PRO won hands down for in-shop comfort. But others cost way less. Can't remember their names, though, because of those TC Pros.
I still havn't put the $ down, but thats because of health reasons. I found then for 156 or so on Amazon.
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Gene
climber
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
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Any comments on the Acopa JB? Thanks.
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hossjulia
Social climber
Eastside
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
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YES! My original Ballet's are getting a little worn. Only shoe I've ever found that fits my weird feet & climbs so well..
Now if that sz 8 locker has is a 40/40.5, I'll have to do some serious bidin'.
Had no idea you could still get Boreal's in the US, of course it would be Neptune's, woot!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
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Sportiva TCs are the ones I was referring to with 170$ comment : ( REI gives back 10% right...and I can return them after use : ) jk
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
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Those Ebay Kaukulators up above are a great find if they're your size.
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avid
Trad climber
sacramento, ca
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
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V -- I just got 5.10 Moccasyms. Haven't tried them in cracks yet but I hear they're one of the best for trad. I'll let you know how they are if I make it out this weekend! BTW what are you doing Sunday?
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
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Acopa JB: people find the sizing unpredictable, so be sure to buy where you can try them on or exchange them if they don't fit.
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
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I use the Sportiva Kaukulator (the blue shoe in TK's first ebay link , it's not a Mega). I like them a lot for long alpine routes (high top keeps gravel out too on scrambly bits), and for anything wide. It helps I got a killer deal on them at Second Ascent in Seattle. Otherwise I'd get a pair of TC Pros given what I've heard and that Sportiva normally fits me well. Too hard to find the JBs to try on and the Grandstones seem a bit clunky, but maybe not more than my Kaukulators really.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 25, 2011 - 06:02pm PT
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yeah, my mistake...didn't look long enough when I was rounding up those links...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
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Chris, I seen a lot of people use those too, but they are not high top. It seems as I might have to just buy a low top and tape up the ankles for OW in which they will be rubbed to bloody mess if not protected.
MY PROBLEM IS..I bought mythos, liked them, and shoe laces on BOTH ripped after some 3 weeks of moderate crack use...even laces in my nagos didn't rip after MONTHS of abuse (yea they are different laces, but crap when you make a shoe designed to be good for crack climbing can't you make laces more durable! and without that retarded special way to tie them!!!!! If they were laced like regular shoes, I would just change them, quick and easy!)
PS: We will be boarding Sat+sunday...snow conditions should be GREAT this weekend. It will be REAL powder!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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get a pair of Kaukulators off of eBay or some such... my opinion is they're the best high top, still.
I haven't used the TC Pros, yet... but considering what you can buy a slightly used pair of Kaukulators for they are hands down the best value.
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D.Eubanks
climber
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Feb 25, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
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Everybodys feet are different, but friends of mine say the Sportiva TC Pro's...are the shoes.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 25, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
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TC Pros are the way to go. Worth the price, I have two pairs. As good or better than Kaukulators in most applications except Inverting. Much more durable, in my experience.
That being said, if you can use size 8 Acopa JB's, I've got a pair of almost new size 8's I'm selling for $60.
If you win the lottery, and want a dedicated offwidth shoe, rather than an alround shoeget Ganda hightops, $235. You can use thm on the approach, too!
And, if you but ten minutes into it once, mythos are easy to relace. Do them one at a time so you have a guide. Also, think about technique. I usually get two resoles out of a set of laces. Use the sportiva, laces. Worth the $5! the things on the ends are key to lacing, and the diameter is optimal for adjustments. Thicker makes them unadjustable and thinner tears the leather.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Feb 25, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
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I have two pairs of blue Kaukulators and two pairs of the brown Kaukulators. The blue are way better, but if someone wants to trade something climbing related for the browns they are size 40 and in good shape (because they are not as good as the blues).
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 25, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
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Yow, Mariachers! a piece of history!
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
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I haven't had a chance to try them yet but I like the idea of the new five ten anasazi high top and plan to get a pair for trad and alpine. But, if they are anything like the low top anasazi, they will be about as far from the mythos as you can get (ie they might actually help you edge).
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Feb 25, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
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The new Boreal rubber is inferior. So those Ballet Golds need an immediate resole right out of the box. The old Boreal high tops rocked. Also the current Ballet Gold doesn't entirely cover the ankle bone (that's the part that bleeds). The TC pros seem to be a bit low cut on the ankle as well.
The JB's take some breaking in. The Acopa rubber crumbles along the edges strangely. These surprised me as being good for edging though.
The Grandstones do okay smearing into the edges of thinner cracks, surprisingly, but they aren't a pair of slippers, ya know.
Never had a pair of Kauks, the choice of the wide crew hard men. Too bad they are unavailable now except on Ebay.
Did have a pair of those purple Mariachers, though. Hmm... those 41's might fit...
That Anasazi high top looks interesting...a high top slipper? Has someone read my mind? But... those velcro straps might not take the abuse of a good wide thrashing. I'd rather see a sock-like high top (think surfer booty)...now we're talking!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Feb 25, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
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I have a pair of 1985 vintage Fire's I'll sell ya for $50. You'll need a resole and rerand. Though they were only used a few times, the rubber is dried out and crumbly. A resole with 5.10-C4 rubber is in order. Size 9
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2011 - 12:26am PT
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I am size 42.5-43 in climbing shoes...thank you all for advice..I might just go back and get some mythos again...or buy back ones I returned from used gear sale *evil smile* just kidding
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 26, 2011 - 01:57am PT
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Simple and elegant-- La Sportiva Enduro, THE intro to "trad" shoe...
http://tinyurl.com/6c64csw
The trick is in findin' 'em, I reckon
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
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Ryan said: "I haven't had a chance to try them yet but I like the idea of the new five ten anasazi high top and plan to get a pair for trad and alpine. But, if they are anything like the low top anasazi, they will be about as far from the mythos as you can get (ie they might actually help you edge)".
Curious if you (or anyone) has glomed onto a pair of these yet?
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Spike Flavis
Trad climber
Truckee California
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
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TC pro are great and worth the money.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
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those high top anasazi's are really, really good. leather now, where i think the first pairs were manmade material. i just last week ordered another pair. i love them on all the wide stuff ive been doing at arch and cookie. makes new d a grade easier
fitting these boots to where a sock is worth considering, more protection and comfort for your foot and warmer for winter, and you can keep the shoe dryer by changing socks out while cragging
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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Those Evolve shoes look pretty cool. I have some tan Kaukulators, white 5.10 Altias, re-issue (klunky) La Sportiva Megas, and 5.10 Cerro Torres (all with fresh rubber) and I'd have to say that the best trad crack shoe for me (including Wyde) is...
... the 5.10 Copperhead side lace slipper with mass rubber on the sides for da cracks :-) !!!!
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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the 5.10 Copperhead side lace slipper with mass rubber on the sides for da cracks I bought a pair of those because I liked how the rubber extended on to the upper and the laces were protected. Looked like the designer actually thought about how you jam cracks. Maybe they just didn't fit my feet but they were crap. Toe is way too fat, won't fit into thin cracks.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
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Kaukulators.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite, ca
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Nov 14, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
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Ill say it again....Get the moccasyms...best crack shoe ever.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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I scored a pair of the 5.10 Grandstones kind of on a lark for a reasonable price and absolutely love them. Probably not as good as TC pros but I didn't have that much $$ to spend on shoes. One of my partners picked some up too after I was talking about how much I liked mine and he's pretty stoked on them too. Only bad thing is they take awhile to lace/unlace so not the best shoe for cragging. Excellent for long trad though.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Nov 15, 2012 - 12:22am PT
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Yeah, thin crack shoes tend to be of the "specialist" variety--pretty sure that I was talking about trad/cracks and wyde. If your thing is thin, find what works best for your togs...
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Raafie
Big Wall climber
Portland, OR
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Nov 15, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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Is there any difference between the blue and the brown Kaukulators other than just the color? (and maybe the years they were produced?)
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 15, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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I just got a pair of the new evolv astromans last month. Really like them so far. Very comfortable, protect ankle but maintain flexibility and have a nice tongue design. The rubber is very good and holding up so far on different types of rock. On the down side they are not board lasted and I wish they were a tad stiffer, they seemed a lot like the TC pros and of a higher quality than other evolv shoes in general.
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 15, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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I really like my Grandstones. Very comfortable, climb slabs reasonably well for how stiff they are. The high top anasazis look nice too - might have to pick up a pair.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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ankle taping sucks- really hard to get it right and keep necessary mobility
get the tcs- not that much extra $- just gotta dirtbag it harder in other areas of your life for a few days :)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 15, 2012 - 08:45am PT
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Jaybro--your feet aren't that small, are they?
I wish mine were smaller, I'd buy those Acopas in a second!!!!
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Nov 15, 2012 - 09:41am PT
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If you have picky feet, then get the ones that fit the shape of your foot and accept whatever design flaws go with it.
for me that means TCs...but I'd like to try on the new Evolves just to make sure that they fit me as poorly as every other Evolve shoe ever made
:-)
btw... As I resole the TCs I find that they feel like I would imagine a high-top Mythos would feel
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 10:47am PT
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This thread is kind of old. I ended up with TC Pros and like them a lot.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Nov 15, 2012 - 10:54am PT
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If you're not sure, and aren't going for an FA, just look and see what the FA party wore.
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Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 10:58am PT
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The Grandstones are more of a wide-crack specialty shoe than an all around "trad" shoe. They're super stiff which gives you good support when you're bridging or stacking your feet in an OW. They stand on edges ok, but I wouldn't choose them for a climb that had a lot of slab on it. They don't get into thinner cracks that well either.
But they're good OW shoes that won't break the bank.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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Regardless of the age of thread.. good discussion.
The 5-10 Grandstones are now my ONLY go-to shoe for ALL climbing. Sport, trad. It's a great all around shoe IMO.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
member since 2002
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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they are not board lasted
Does anyone make a board lasted shoe anymore?
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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Currently running TC pros, 2nd pair, had to get them warrantied. Bad batch of leather failed at the pull on loop just as I got them broken in, now I have a fresh pair waiting. I didn't expect sportiva to replace, I expected and feared a repair instead. Stoked.
that said, they're awesome and all, but Scarpa makes a better product and is due to fill the hole in their lineup with some sort of desirable cracky shoe. Technos were garbage, helixes are great price point shoes, but arent a performancy/comfy cracky shoe. Come on Scarpa and make a competitor to the TC, evolv did. I know five ten makes a couple of high tops, but never again five ten.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:45am PT
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Craftsmanship and quality. Straight up.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:45am PT
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Modern footwear please.
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Matt's
climber
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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buddha stalin-- the same thing happened to my TC pros-- the leather split in two, starting in between the pull tabs and going all the way down the back of the shoe. The split is not at the stitching of the leather, but right next to it (!)
It's still pathetic how I get a more durable rand put on the shoe by a resole than was originally put on by la sportiva-- unfortunately I really like this shoe...
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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Thats exactly what happened to mine. Take them to the dealer you got em from, have em contact the cust svc guy dan salazar (?). You should get taken care of...and theyre not backordered anymore either, mine happened quick.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Just imagine that sort of shoe put together with proper craftsmanship and tighter standards.....Designed by Heinz. Come on scarpa, take my monies
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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Only issue I have had with mine was the thing that helps cinch the heel up with the lace broke on one of mine. Pretty damn good shoe, especially if resoled with Five Ten rubber...incredibly thin toe profile.
Depends on your foot and what you like to climb in. To me it was a poor-fitting mythos with an unfortunately placed grommet at the toe, too soft, thin, and stretchy. Im not a mythos fan either.
Besides, we're paying top dollar here, I want it to come out of the box right the first time, especially with prices the way theyve been going up. TC's are 180 goddamn dollars, at least theyre right right out of the box.
One thing Ive noticed with new shoe technology and modern climbing habits is folks not using crack type shoes anymore, using sporty or slipper type shoes, people like crack climbing in moccasyms for instance, but many of us dont. I think technology helps, but some of us still get crammy tight foot jams, thin shoes dont let me crank it in there. Need some cows butt and midsole. I dont care about board lasted anymore, it just needs some sturdy midsole in there. Technology has given us more options than the old full board last. I loved em, but the new sh#t is the sh#t.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
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Mythos mods for ankle protection. The suede spat works very well. The tape is just for laughs.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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"wide wednesday" sighting up above, but it's subtle!!
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Norte_Caroliņa_Climber
Gym climber
BigWall Baller From the Holler
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
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Are those shoes like off-road versions of Mary Janes, Melissa?
I demo'ed those Anasazi velcro high tops. Kind of weird. Didn't really like them, can't pin down why, but something about the way the straps were positioned.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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^^ Wide Wednesday... That's the first thing I thought when I saw those chair legs and the taped ankles!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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I'd been using my 1980's vintage Fires, re-soled with C4, with pretty good results. I just got off the DL after my Achilles tendon surgery none months ago, however, and discovered that my affected foot doesn't fit particularly comfortably any more. I will try everything available, but I was wondering if anyone had any info on the Evolv Astroman.
Thanks.
john
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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Cosmic,
I see that Mountain Gear has Grandstones on sale now. Do you find that they run true to size and width?
Thanks.
John
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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Thanks, Russ. Unfortunately, I need the smaller sizes that Mountain Gear still has in inventory.
john
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Apr 16, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
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My boy swung by recently for a few days and as part of the trip he made me give him a belay, which was excruciating with 2 torn rotator cuffs, and also go to REI so he could return something. While there he drug me up to the "climbing" area to try on the new Dean Potter sponsered 5.10 high top Anasasis. I want to say that they look fantastic. The price had me crying as much as the earlier belaying did:-) $170 and they were not discounting off that.
Sizing, you definitely want to try these on before you buy them, they run real small. I'm a 8.5-9 street shoe and a 10 was real, real snug on me. The lad is the same street shoe size but he got his foot shoehorned into a 9. As I age I have less tolerant for that whle tight shoe bullshit -your results truly will vary.
If I was still getting vertical mileage and not sitting on my ass till I heal up and also didn't already own pairs of JB's, Grandstones and TC Pros, I'd be on these like a fly on sh#t. If you are in the market for a pair of hightops, I'd put these and the TC Pros on the list to look at. Climbing reviews the 5.10 and the Evolv Astromans as well. Their plaudids are so worthless as to almost not be worth reading. Every shoe is wonderful. Guess they don't want to put the truth up and have a good advertise walk. Regardless, here it is. http://www.climbing.com/gear/fall-foot-frenzy/ Is anyone getting out on the new Evolv Astromans? They kind of remind me of Fires and look comfortable.
[img]http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/images/products/preview/evl0141.jpg/img]
Matty has a real good comparison of some of them here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1996613&msg=1996682#msg1996682
Maybe it's time for Chrismac to get all these hightops checked out side by side and put it up on the gear review section.
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