Discussion Topic |
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This space for rent
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 12, 2006 - 12:31am PT
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Name the climber, route, belayer, or anything else you might have. The climber is a poster here on the Taco
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 12, 2006 - 12:42am PT
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That looks real familiar ....... I know it! :-)
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jan 12, 2006 - 12:44am PT
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wtf? Is that guy on lead or TR? and what kind of belay is that?
looks whacked
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Jan 12, 2006 - 12:50am PT
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What's with the rope going up from the climber. Where does that go?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2006 - 12:59am PT
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looks a little like this one, same questions and qualifications
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jack herer
climber
chico, ca
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Jan 12, 2006 - 01:00am PT
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looks like one of those wild gritstone belays
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 12, 2006 - 01:02am PT
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Intresting, ......... have people never seen these kind of setups before?
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susan peplow
climber
area 29
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Jan 12, 2006 - 01:03am PT
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Climber?
Belayer?
Route? But I'm going with.....Big Bob's Big Wedge 5.11 - Live Oak Area, JT.
How did I do?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This space for rent
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2006 - 01:05am PT
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BZZZZZZZZTTTT!!! Wrongo. Not the big bobs big wedge.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This space for rent
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2006 - 01:06am PT
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Hey Werner... we had one of these set ups going on Jaws back in the day with me, you, Mike Paul, Bachar and ??? Banny Root maybe?
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 12, 2006 - 01:06am PT
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Bachar was there and got sick watching watusi.
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susan peplow
climber
area 29
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Jan 12, 2006 - 01:13am PT
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"BZZZZZZZZTTTT" I thought that was a good guess. It's similar. Post a pic of BBBW just for kicks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2006 - 01:19am PT
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and no tape.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This space for rent
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2006 - 01:44am PT
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No pics of BBBW available.... You've seen my slide storage system (two large boxes).... I found all these looking for a slide of Roy Wonder and Swiss Michi from 1982. Damn... never did find it.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 12, 2006 - 01:50am PT
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We tried that setup back in '76 on this TR route ("Fear of Flying") the first time we got on it because we were afraid of the trees. First try Doug Drewes cuts right off the bat rocketing our bottom belayer, Doug Allen, out from behind a big rock and into space too. I was providing the TR belay and once they were both flying I shot about 30 feet into space with a hip belay dumping them into the shallow ravine below the climb. It was a real Keystone Cops affair and was the only time we tried a bottom belay on it. After that we just resolved ourselves to not falling before 2/3's of the way up where you become safe from the trees. A few years after Jim Tangen-Foster and I nabbed it a fellow did cut on it down low, making it out through the trees, but breaking his back against the tree we were worried about on the ride back in.
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Chris W
Social climber
Eldo
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Jan 12, 2006 - 02:03am PT
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Is that me!!! J/K...My first pair of shoes where Boreal Fires. That guy is just belaying straight off the anchor. And on the other pic we used to set up that sort of thing for testing Ice screws in Vail. I was only 18 and everyone else was at least 10 years older then me...so...they would make me the guinea pig and have me climb as high as i could and just let go of my ice tools and see how far one could fall and still not break the ice screws.
Gotta tape up for that wide stuff. My hands are skinny and boney with very soft girlie skin. I am jealous of those guys like Greg (on SAR) who gets callouses on the back of his meatie paws.
Jaybro...what offwith in Vedawoo? Blow it up a little and i will tell you.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jan 12, 2006 - 02:03am PT
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Oh my god - Are all your photos comprised of " routes " like these? I've never seen such a collection of odd ,subterreanean,grungy circus acts. Whatta ya call this - spelunking - traversing - bird egg collecting? Can't even tell which direction is up! Get into the sun you TROLL.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Jan 12, 2006 - 02:05am PT
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Jonny Woodward... JT or Hueco?????????????
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Chris W
Social climber
Eldo
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Jan 12, 2006 - 02:05am PT
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Lots of vertical splunking in Vedawoo.
Cool Kneebar in the first pic.
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Chris W
Social climber
Eldo
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Jan 12, 2006 - 02:09am PT
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when i hear the name Jonny Woodward, I think of trench warfare near....Salt Lake city? somewhere? Why is that?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2006 - 02:18am PT
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Chris dub-"Jaybro...what offwith in Vedawoo? Blow it up a little and i will tell you."
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other thread?
the one I posted here isn't in vedauwoo.
Noticed that belay detail (straight from the anchor) the photographer must have been to busy belaying on the other rope to comment.
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Chris W
Social climber
Eldo
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Jan 12, 2006 - 02:37am PT
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Didn't see the other rope at first. It kind of blends in with the rock. Now, I see why some people are confused.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 12, 2006 - 03:03am PT
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Belays or not, that is some fuggin' sicksh#t.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2006 - 03:10am PT
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"subterreanean,grungy circus acts"
-just the tip of the iceberg
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2006 - 03:22am PT
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Russ, have You climbed route in question?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This space for rent
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2006 - 03:24am PT
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Yes sir..... 2nd ascent.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2006 - 03:26am PT
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recently?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This space for rent
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2006 - 03:31am PT
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Still healing from it..... slide says 1987 on it.....
The climber in the pic got jacked up later in the sequence. Torn shoulder or something. If he would get on here he could tell you the story... who/where is that dude????????
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2006 - 03:35am PT
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on another continent?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This space for rent
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2006 - 03:37am PT
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Nope. Here in the US of A
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2006 - 03:42am PT
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I'm lost
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 12, 2006 - 03:52am PT
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That is one of the wilder roofs I've ever seen - in and out, in and out, gotta hate leaving the middle...cool! Someone guess as I'd love to know...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2006 - 04:24am PT
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there's a no hands rest in the middle, of the one you enlarged.
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Leroy
climber
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Jan 12, 2006 - 06:12am PT
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Its The Living Conjunction.AKA. The move that made me Famous.But I dont think thats me.Is it?
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junior
Trad climber
Modesto. CA
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Jan 12, 2006 - 08:54am PT
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Hey Fish thats me and I think Leroy is right on the name. Your right I got cooked good on that one! Of cousre thats what you said was probably going to happen when we walked over to it. First I almost dislocated my knee doing the spin around move in the middle and then when I reached the crux overhanging cupped fist OW part I hung off the hand jam rest before that so long that I hurt my shoulder and was injured for months. Remember Mike I don't think he even did the spin move right that thing is wicked!!!! I believe its rated 10+++ right?
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jan 12, 2006 - 10:08am PT
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Junior if you're right then where's the conjunction part or it?? If I remember right there is some nasty guano type of smutz back inside the rig.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jan 12, 2006 - 10:13am PT
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blown up one is Trench Warefare, as mentioned above. definately dark and grungy
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junior
Trad climber
Modesto. CA
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Jan 12, 2006 - 10:24am PT
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It's further back near Mike. hey whats your name can't say?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 12, 2006 - 10:28am PT
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I would have called it "The Thrash and Splash Slash"
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Chris W
Social climber
Eldo
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Jan 12, 2006 - 12:20pm PT
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Trench Warfare...is that correct? I heard it never has gotten a legitmate F.A. Only been climbed using some kind of gimmick of sorts. i.e. putting 5 inches of rubber on the back of your hands. What's the history behind the climb.
Russ, Tell us young folks where that crack is soo we can go get punished. You can e-mail me.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jan 12, 2006 - 12:53pm PT
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i've only talked to one ascensionist of TW in person, but i was under the impression that it had seen at least 5 ascents, and none w/ the type of trickery described. i know there's an old video w/ Kim Czimasia(sp?) on it, she even untied and soloed the finish.
;)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This space for rent
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2006 - 01:53pm PT
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DING DING DING!!!!
We have some winners! This one is the Living Conjunction in Josh. And that is Junior on the thing and Dick Cilley bagged the FA. Mike Lechlinski is manning the rear belay. CantSay is right... there is some weird ass spew back in the cave that looks like guano mixed with bloody stools.... some sort of Living Conjunction.
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Jan 12, 2006 - 04:57pm PT
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Hey chris.....
I know of 2 people who have climbed trench warfare..without gimmici's....Kim csmazia(sp?)...and another guy who shall remain nameless as he is a super star climber but doesn't want to be "that guy"....
josh
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Leroy
climber
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Jan 20, 2006 - 05:56am PT
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I asked the tool what that sh#t was and he said it was a living con junction.I said ,Whats that?he said It was a symbiotic relation between the rock and a living organism.I said bullshit ,its bat sh#t. U decide.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 20, 2006 - 11:15am PT
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TW has been done a bunch of times (6+) by a bunch of people with no funny business.
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426
Sport climber
Buschville, TN
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Jan 20, 2006 - 11:36am PT
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unfortunately JB, I think some staunchers would call taping your pants "funny biz"...
PS-that's a 'way rad' offwidth tipper for you up and coming 'wide and hards'...
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jan 20, 2006 - 04:02pm PT
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Jaybro--
Any suggestions on training for something like TW? I'm wondering more in terms of abs. You a crunch demon or do you just have to go to the crossroads and sell your soul?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 20, 2006 - 07:26pm PT
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426- the reverend fish sez it's ok to tape your pants leg.
Marty(r) -you sure that soul was your to sell in the first place?
-mainly it's about getting used to being upside down that long ( get over the exploding face feeling and you're almost there).Inverted sittups, with (inverted) rests will do the trick.
For $250k I will sell you a house with a wooden ow roof crack that will teach you every thing you need. Train a for bit and resell and you'll climb TW AND make money. Even with a second derivative decline (ie they are now raising at a less obscene rate than before) in Cali real estate prices.
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Chris W
Social climber
Eldo
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Jan 21, 2006 - 12:13am PT
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Guess, i gotta stop talking smack and go climb it.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jan 21, 2006 - 11:40am PT
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Russ, is that the thing behind hidden valey out by the IDC? I think I remember being out there with Mike, Mari and crew....Living Conjunction - there's some other action out there too.... got more photos? jb
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This space for rent
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2006 - 01:38pm PT
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Yo Jack,
It is out / by on the way to Hot Rocks on the left as you walk out past Hot Rocks and Negasaurus. got pics of Moe on the thing, me and Dick on the FA. Wild deal..... knee wrecker and grainy. Hard though....
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jan 22, 2006 - 04:46pm PT
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Russ - yeah I remember gettin' a hard on when we first stumbled upon it after smoking some of that stuff.....it's all a little hazy now...turned out to be a true gem though didn't it...
Is that other nauseating thing that crack below Elephant you guys were all stoked about that one summer? Jaws????
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Mimi
climber
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Was checking out the UKC newsletter and saw this fine shot of Johnny. Did a Woodward search and was surprised to find no Woodward appreciation thread so this seemed like a good one to bump with it.
chris_jackson, Mar 1982, Beau Geste, E6 6c.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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No idea! Even if I knew, I couldn't admit to it.
(Short-term memory guy)
Whatever it is, I'm never going near it, except with a camera. Video preferred. That just looks like it hurts too much.
What about placement #2? Where that at? Don't tell me, just out past the "ground-fall-potential" area... Right?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Damn...I was too late, cause I saw this one straight up!!!! I did get a bit chewed by "The Jaws" in the valley that summer but was glad I did it so I never have to go back...
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 13, 2009 - 03:20am PT
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Wyde
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| Messages 1 - 56 of total 56 in this topic |
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