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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 17, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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Wall Tacos... I'm thinking of doing another El Cap route this year and these three make up my short list. Any opinions/preferences? I know a fair bit about Mescalito and have done some of its pitches while on the Dawn Wall, so I'm perhaps more interested in comments/experiences about Sunkist and Magic Mush, but I'm open to all opinions and information. Thanks!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 17, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
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bump for the brass
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 17, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
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Do the 'Shroom
I did 'scalito in the last century and thought it was excellent, pretty crowded these days.
The post above makes a good point about Sunkist. Whenever I think of it I remember Slater Slobbering about "a thousand feet of tiny placements" or what ever it was. I made a note then to put it at the back of the list.
When the colonel and I did The shield I kept looking over at MM, it intrigued me. I was drawn to it. A very cool line, in a superb location, with spectacular features.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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pics are always pretty cool too. (hint...hint)
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Jan 17, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
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WooHoo BrassNuts is going Big Walling thats what some of us like to see here on ST. Alot depends on when you are planning on going. Agree with Mike in that Mecalito will more than likely see a little more traffic but still if you have not done the whole route it is one for the list for sure. Both Magic Mushroom and Sunkist have a lot of merit. Sunkist has some really stellar rock up there and will not disappoint IMO. Heck just spend some extra time in the valley and do both.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 17, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
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Sooooooo,........... the list was made using only route names that refer to hallucinogens.
Coincidence?
Riiiiiiiiight.:)
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Jan 17, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
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+1 Magic Mushroom. Spectacular.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
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Do Magic Mushroom -- and post lots of pics. Even though it's the oldest of the three routes, it's also the one about which I know the least.
John
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
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Jan 17, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
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I would suggest sticking to the right side of El Cap.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 17, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
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Haven't heard of MM being at the top of any experienced climber's best of El Cap list. Yeah - lots of flared cracks is what I always hear first.. Agree about Sunkist only being half of an El Cap route. Check Tom's El Cap reports for views of the train up Mescalito. That's got to be mind numbing - following cracks so worn from traffic up one of the longest sections of the wall. What about one of the routes near Mescalito? South Seas to Space is pretty proud. P.O. Wall used to be more popular, etc. Native Son?
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 17, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
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Do Sunkist.
Magic Mushroom is in deep flaring awkward corners.
Mescalito is over done trade route.
Sunkist will be your fun in the sun ..... :-)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 17, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
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lots of flared cracks is what I always hear first
Does it get better than that? What else is there in life?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jan 17, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
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Well, Mescalito is the only one on the SE face. The others are just slab routes for the first half.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
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"Just slab routes for the first half".....Give it a shot & see if you survive. I dunno......
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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Have you done the Muir?
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
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Mushroom goes from the ground. Significant?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
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Do people actually do the real start of MM...or do most just jug to Mammoth to avoid the yukky slab? The better way?
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
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Most people go to Mammoth and avoid the bottom 10 pitches of slabbing aid. Mescalito is probably the most climbing of the three and has great position as does Sunkist up high. Almost any big ElCap route is worth doing for sure. Let me know when you are going and I'll try to make you famous... unless you bail and then you will be infamous! ;)
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Eubanks,D
Big Wall climber
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Jan 17, 2011 - 09:09pm PT
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Do Sunkist.
Beautiful headwall.
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Jan 17, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
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Decisions, decisions....
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
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Hey everybody, thanks for the info and opinions so far! Good feedback. Anybody have any pictures of the Mushroom or Sunkist? Keep the votes and info coming... :-) Although Mescalito is an awesome line, I'm not a fan of crowds, so that may be the least likely choice for me. I remember really digging the golden desert headwall on the Shield and I'm not a big fan of awkward flared corner aiding, so it's looking like Sunkist is in the lead so far.......
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Jan 17, 2011 - 11:06pm PT
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This business of Sunkist being only half a route is BS. Plenty of good climbing up there and nice looking granite
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 17, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
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not a big fan of awkward flared corner aiding sounds like right side in armbars to me!
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BriGuy
climber
black hills
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Jan 18, 2011 - 01:18am PT
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The Sunkist headwall is absolutely spectacular (way better than the Shield) and many starting options exist, we did the Muir start.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2011 - 11:34am PT
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Sweet pics! Looks like killer exposure fer sure... the golden desert... More pics?? Also fun pics earlier of the representative "fruit" for each route, very creative :-)
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 18, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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Great pics! That is a stellar head wall.
BNuts, what ever route you choose, it is awesome to see you planning to do one.
Stick with the rehab and keep to your training. I am rooting for you.
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Jan 18, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
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You could start on mushroom and finish on sunkist...thus accomplishing half of your list!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jan 18, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
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Here's a vote for Sunkist. I would say it is one the very best El Cap routes I have done out of 27 different ones.
It has great location, great rock, and the upper headwall is amazing. It's hard enough to be interesting, but cruiser enough so you don't sweat too many difficulties.
I have no photos because we lost the disposable camera we had on the descent. Bummer! I may have to climb it again to get some photos like the Briguy's.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jan 18, 2011 - 08:39pm PT
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Eubanks,D
Big Wall climber
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Jan 18, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
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BriGuy, sweet Sunkist pics.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 18, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
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go BN!!!!!
Howse the arm coming, big guy????
Don't you be overdoing it too soon, you hear!!!
(big brother talkin' atcha)!!!
hee hee hee. . .
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
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More excellent feedback, thanks everybody! More great wall pics pleeez!
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Jan 19, 2011 - 10:02am PT
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Sunkist is great. Mescalito is great. I'm sure Magic Mushroom is great too!
Sunkist, 1996; unfortunately my photography is not great.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jan 19, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
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Dave,
Pete Takeda's article on Sunkist in CLIMBING back in the late 90's was one of the better pieces of climbing writing I've read. It has stellar photos by Eperson and was a super motivational read for me dig it up. (Though I've still never been up El Cap) It might sway you toward that golden sheet of goodness just hanging there in the sky. Good luck!
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Jan 19, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
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Pete never finished that route. Significant?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 19, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
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I'd say if you've done the Dawn Wall, slide over to the left, though I don't think having another party on the same route is that bad. A little company can be fun.
From what I've heard, hard to go wrong with either Sunkist or MM. I was trying to ogle both when I did the Shield in the early 90s. Same stretch of awesome orange granite. In fact, I tried to talk my partner in coming back the following year to climb Sunkist, but he demurred. If I can ever manage another trip up the Captain, it'll probably be Sunkist.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2011 - 12:31am PT
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More good opinions and pics, thanks everyone! Cheers to those who asked about my arm - its doing pretty well - officially "healed" in 2 more weeks, so I'll start doing some weenie routes in the gym at that point. Currently doing my high rep, low weight exercises to try and get everything firing again - it's gonna take some work! Here's an old pic of my buddy Quinn coming up the Groove pitch on the Shield, BITD... Really bitchin exposure up there, amazing to think that Sunkist could be even more "out there"... makes things tighten up a bit just thinkin about it!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Jan 20, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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I think ANY El Cap Route, base to top, will provide "Full Value".
I've climbed Mescalito, & while it was a great experience, I still long to cross that Golden Headwall. Cheers, BN, on whatever you choose. Just remember to check in for "Full Value".
Oh, yes.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 20, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
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Mescalito is nothing more than an A2 trade route. Proud section of wall, straightforward route. Climbed scores of times each year.
Magic Mushroom - I did knott like this route. It is one of my least favourites on El Cap [I've done 42]. The problem is that the corners are very tight and deep - you have to reach deep into the slot to place the gear and then when you step on your aider, you are forced so far outwards because of the slot the next piece you can place is only like a foot higher. I really didn't like this route, and would not recommend it. Unless you like really awkward climbing.
Sunkist - stunning, fantastic. Best A3 on the SW Face if not the entire El Cap. I have been promoting this route since I climbed it in 97, and few have climbed it since. I still need to get the Official Word on the condition of the anchor bolts, though. I think they're OK, knott sure. [Back in 97, I was a n00b, and considered a bolt to be a bolt]
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BriGuy
climber
black hills
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Jan 25, 2011 - 02:43am PT
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This is the pitch that leads to the headwall crack on Sunkist. The climbers in the background are on Golden Gate.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 25, 2011 - 09:43am PT
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Cool stuff. Amazing photos.
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Jefe'
Boulder climber
Bishop
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Jan 25, 2011 - 03:59pm PT
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Kevin, I remember a picture Richard showed me of you standing in slings on thin blades chompping your fingernails pretending to actually be gripped.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 25, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
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A climbing bump. BN is out of town so he won't see this for a few days.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2011 - 06:08pm PT
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I can't speak for the condition of the climbing these days but nobody has ever done The Jollykist that I am aware of.
Considering the ghastly state of the Gangplank on the JR (peckers tapped into deadheads, yuk!) take a left instead. Big fun in either direction!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 25, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
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Chris Geisler and Connie Axelmusen climbed Jollykist when Connie ran short of time, so Chris told me.
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Neil Chelton
climber
England
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Mar 10, 2011 - 11:55am PT
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A friend and I climbed Mescalito in September 2010 and had the whole route to ourselves. Of the 6 El Cap routes i've done, Mescalito was definitely the best. Although the climbing is relatively straightforward, it is sustained from the first move to the very end, with each pitch being about C2- C3. Perfect rock, fantastic views and a spectacular location. Do it.
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anuk
climber
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Mar 12, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
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I agree with Warner. I did the Mushroom in 2000 and thought the flaring cracks were no-fun. Basicly I remeber 1 good pitch on the whole route. Mescalito stand in line, but its easy C2 the whole way. Bet sunkist would be super good. I hear chill for the grade.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Mar 12, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
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Your style is suspect, pass your penis Pete.
Circumspect. Trustifarian. You're a pretender in the tribe.
Go back to MonTauk.
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Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
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Mar 12, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
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Brian, how were those bolts when you were up there on Sunkist? Plus a bump for more pics!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 12, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
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Do South Seas->PO
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 26, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
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bump for climbing
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Dec 26, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
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the belays on SK are all good except for 1 above the A5 arch. Get on it, the route is incredible.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 26, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
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We had Excalibur to ourselves, wonderful.
Always wanted to do the Shroom, but then I want to do The Dihedral and Cosmos too.....HA!!
Sorry to all the snobs, but I haven't done a bad El Cap route.
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