Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 90 of total 90 in this topic |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 25, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
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A celebration of the best corner climb ever! Galen Rowell's excellent photoessay of Ron and Werner having some fun from Rock and Ice May/June 1987.
Once you have done Astroman, it becomes like a mantra measured out in handjams...Enduro Corner, Harding Slot, Changing Corners, Rusty Sword and repeat....Ron and Werner like mantras!
Happy Holidays All!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 25, 2010 - 05:31pm PT
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Thanks Steve,
Astroman is as close to the heart and soul of our climbing culture as it gets.
Best wishes to all for the holiday season and new year.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 25, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
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Magnificent Stevie!! Thanks!
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drewsky
climber
Seattle
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Dec 25, 2010 - 06:37pm PT
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The route is cemented in my memory as one of my most favorite days of rock climbing. I can remember the features quite vividly and those pictures certainly do them justice. Thank you for posting the article!
-A
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North
climber
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Dec 25, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
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Oh yeah, actual climbing photos on a climbing site. Thank you.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 25, 2010 - 11:59pm PT
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Thanks Steve! Happy holidays!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Dec 26, 2010 - 12:06am PT
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My favorite climb
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
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Dec 26, 2010 - 12:16am PT
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I got to do astroman with werner...I flashed cat squirrel,and he was like ,oh mon that ain't no rockclimim..so he took me to crimson cringe and astroman,,I only hung on the endurance pitch..every pitch he would hold out the rack and say you wanna lead this pitch? I'd eyeball the 4 pieces and 8 biners...and pass....3 hours or something like that.. so pumped...
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Dec 26, 2010 - 12:23am PT
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Thanks for posting this article - it has always been one of my favorite photo essays! Great pics, even greater climb!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
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Dec 26, 2010 - 08:58am PT
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Thanks Steve! Warm sunny handjam bump.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Dec 26, 2010 - 11:14am PT
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every pitch he would hold out the rack and say you wanna lead this pitch? I'd eyeball the 4 pieces and 8 biners...and pass....3 hours or something like that.. so pumped...
LOL! classic. What was (is) Werners lap count (how many times he has done this route)?
Thanks Steve!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Dec 26, 2010 - 11:27am PT
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pretty cool. I wish I could do it.
Maybe I'll try it someday...
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Dec 26, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
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Neato! Really cool photographs!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Dec 26, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
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That Braun Kauk guy is way rad!
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Dec 28, 2010 - 11:24am PT
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What's the Rusty Sword?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2010 - 11:34am PT
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That's my name for the nasty blade on the last pitch.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 28, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
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That was incredibly good, Westchrist! V. funny.
Larry, ALL of Stevie’s stuff involves swords, doubloons, pirates and stuff; you should know that.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
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As long as I don't end up in a tiny green suit!
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Dec 28, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
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Huge inspiration bitd...thanks for the reminder.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 28, 2010 - 02:03pm PT
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One of the scariest things about climbing Astroman is imagining Peter patiently toothbrushing the greasy face holds on the outside arete finish on the Changing Corners. Then there's the grainy, loose, not obvious where to go last pitch.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
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I was impressed that you could even aid the last pitch!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 28, 2010 - 06:47pm PT
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Yeah really Steve. That was the A3 BITD.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2010 - 07:40pm PT
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The Changing Corners pitch must have been spicy too with the slab landing!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
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Last bump of the year!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
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Dec 31, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
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Buju, I'll follow you up it any ol' time. Like, next year or something.
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Pate
Trad climber
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Dec 31, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
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Ron looks great, but who's the scrawny little squirrel with the Village People mustache posing as a climber?
This article must be one of the reasons for the massive ego.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2010 - 11:50pm PT
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Let's see you keep up with Kauk...LOL
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
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Back in your hole, Pate.
Ad hominem- real classy there.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I need to get back up on that rig again, such an awesome route!
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Spiky
Trad climber
Wales
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What a great post! Thank you.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
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I love that shot of Werner and Ron!
Happy New Year!$!
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WBraun
climber
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This was the "Sports Illustrated" photo shoot.
I can't remember who belayed Ron.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
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Did anything appear in SI? I don't think that I saw that one!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jan 15, 2011 - 07:00pm PT
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Sweet!
Prod.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jan 15, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
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Great stuff. Steve, you've been posting so many cool old articles, I guess one could always do a search of your name, but maybe Super Topo needs a special "history" archive or something? Anyway, TFPU.
BAd
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 15, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
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What a cool climb! Had to give huge kudos to my Yosemite Brothers (whether they remember me or not...) May the Gods bless...(Best climb I've ever done...Quality wise..)Watusi...
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jan 15, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
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Awesome pics, thanks for posting!
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jan 15, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
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How classic is that article title: On The Rocks, Kauk Is It
Spoken out loud....
LOL
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jan 15, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
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bump for climbing
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
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Thanks for the citation Werner. I will have to find it.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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So Cool, Thanks!!
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Kiwiclimber
Ice climber
Kiruna, Sweden
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Thanks for posting. Astroman is a magnificent climb. I did it with Alex Lowe in about 1980. Great to have Alex along to lead the boulder problem pitch and the Harding Slot (I got the Enduro pitch - superb - and the last pitch - scary...).
Bought my last pair of EBs from Ron Kauk on that same trip to the Valley.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, steve... thanks for the neat share...
i missed a lot of stuff around christmas, etc, ... was very busy...
thanks again...
:)
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mariaji
Social climber
Tucson, AZ
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Oula Ronaldo!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Climbing bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2011 - 09:32pm PT
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Astrobump...
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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May 14, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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Ahhh, the days of simple and clean mag layouts...
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o-man
Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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May 15, 2011 - 06:07pm PT
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This is a great post Steve! Thanks for digging through the archives and posting our heritage! I remember both of the articles and the period that they were published. I remember when Ron told me about the Survival Of the Fittest competition and many other of the details mentioned in the awesome Sports Illustrated article.
It pleases me to no end when I read the names and hear the tales of people that played a significant roll in the insignificant drama I call my life!
SUPERTOPO Rocks!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
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Ron and Werner Bump!
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Mimi
climber
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Hilarious! That is so Werner. Gotta love that guy.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Somehow the last crud face pitch seemed like the crux of the whole thing. I was pretty good at face in the day, but between the not too happy pro and rock quality and end of day fatigue - big sigh of relief to get it. Maybe a word of caution to those who have not done yet but are wanting to try - take care there.
Overall, great exposed positions, steep, unlikely sections, strenuous in sustained way. O, and then be careful on descent too. Some very good climbers have had some nasty slips and slides on that one.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2011 - 04:30pm PT
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I like to call that last blade of crumbling granite the Rusty Sword. I am very impressed that it has withstood as many aid ascents as it has but you still have to steel yourself for the step away moves!
I still remember the bong hole behind the ear at the end of those moves too. A handjam never felt so good and there are lots of them on that route!
I bet some big falls have been taken trying to get off that pitch.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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It is worth mentioning that this was actually a 4 person ascent of Astroman, with the late Andy Embick being the "missing member" of the team. I'd been climbing with Andy that spring in Redrocks and the Valley, and Andy was determined to do Astroman, so when he heard about the plans for the photo shoot he talked himself into the equation.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
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Cool detail Al!
Andy was likely more than happy to get the rope up there.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 23, 2011 - 12:05am PT
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and a twoie
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Spike Flavis
Trad climber
Truckee California
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Dec 23, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
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Are those the ultra-secret-magic red fee-ray rock shoes?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Grab that Spike and gaze up into the Harding Slot...
Spike Bump!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 24, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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I remember Galen coming down after this shoot and marveling how fast Werner rope gunned for his jug line. He would just scramble away from the belay as fast as Galen could pay out rope. Galen was an inattentive belayer to begin with, so it's good you didn't fall Werner.
This shot from right at the lip of the slot is pretty unusual
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
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Such a fine crack and nice young men admiring it...
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David D.
climber
Pacific Grove, CA
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Mar 11, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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Reminds me of a picture posted on Mountain Project of Werner running it out on Astroman:
Quite the argument broke out in the comments and much armchair-climber internet rage was directed at Werner's selective use of gear:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106626733
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Mar 11, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
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pretty sure i have that issue, if someone really wants it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
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What? He's got a handjam...
What was Charles Cole III doing up there?
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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love the quotes on mountainproject.
some guy named Russ (must have a fishing store, based on his website and comment)
Right on. The dude is reckless and just showing off. Total BS. I would never climb with anyone that thinks being super solid and running it way out is cool. It's not people. Someone is going to get hurt or worse! I sure hope that belayer is using a tiblock or something.
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WBraun
climber
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What a stupid climber that Werner guy is.
He should be banned from climbing setting such a bad example for the future n00bs .......
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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GTO Speedwagon's first album, Valley Boys, went straight to the top, dude!
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Gunks Guy
Trad climber
Woodstock, NY
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
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When that issue came out I got myself a pair of bright red baggy pants just like Kauk. Somehow my old pictures don't look quite as stylish as I thought back then - not as bad as the old lycra pix though.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
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hey gunks guy
did you also don a cap of enlightenment?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
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May We All Don the Cap in 2013!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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cool thread.
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Jan 23, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
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bump for climbing
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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Bump for fun!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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Birthday +1 Bump for ze VunderBraun$$$
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
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X-mas Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
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The Rusty Sword got an Original School A5 back in the Red Book days. I wonder who got that lead?
Amazing that it has stayed put.
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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Mar 31, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
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climbing content(with photos)bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 10:37pm PT
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Astroprep Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 11:42am PT
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Galen Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2016 - 04:37pm PT
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Valley Classic Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2017 - 05:36pm PT
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What a great route...bump.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Jan 23, 2017 - 03:59pm PT
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bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2017 - 02:07pm PT
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Ho Man, it's the Stroman...Bump
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 23, 2017 - 03:04pm PT
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so many bumps--looks like a mosquito horde's been thru here
yur right about Galen's lack of attention on belay--disconcerting fer sure
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Oct 23, 2017 - 05:50pm PT
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"When in doubt run it out"
How wrong.
The picture of Werner stemming implies:
"When there is no doubt run it out"
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Karkoekstan, Former USSR
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Oct 23, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
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Werner is Astroman
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Tobia
Social climber
Denial
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Oct 24, 2017 - 07:24am PT
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i tried Werner's Sports Illustrated link to find the article, but it no longer works. There is another Sports Illustrated archive link which dates back to 1954. i don't know the date of the issue the article was published, anyone have that information?
i found this ad in one issue while searching, thought it might stimulate some commentary.
This one is definitely OT, but i can't resist posting.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2018 - 10:12am PT
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"Astro Man"
Here I come to save the day
A little boy inside a dream just the other day
His mind fell out of his face and the wind blew it away
A hand came out from heaven and pinned a badge on his chest
It said 'get out there, man, and do your best'
They call him astro man
And he's flyin' higher than
That faggot superman ever could
Oh, they call him cosmic nut
And he's twice as dense as donald duck
And he'll try his best to screw you up
The rest of your mind
Oh, look out! my guitars
Astro man, flyin' across the sky two times higher
Than that old faggot superman ever, ever could
Ever could
There he goes, there he goes
Where he stops, no one knows
There he goes, there he goes
He's tryin' to, tryin' to blow out the rest of your mind
He's gonna blow out the rest of your mind
Talkin' about lookin' for peace of mind
Astro man will leave it in pieces
Have you put our trouble behind him
Make you fly around in pieces
Yeah, blow out the rest of your mind
Astro man will blow out the rest of your mind
He's gonna blow out the rest of your mind
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