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yosemite hopeful
Intermediate climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 4, 2003 - 08:55am PT
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please let me know of any classic routes in the valley at and under 5.10. i'll be there for a short time and i'd like to make the most of it. thanks.
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DS
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2003 - 10:51am PT
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hmmm...you might consider purchasing the guidebook for sale on this very site titled "Yosemite Ultra Classics".
If you don't want topos for the routes you plan on climbing, you can atleast see a large list of classics organized by grade at the page above.
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DS
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2003 - 10:52am PT
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forgot to included the link...
Yosemite Ultra Classics
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yosemite hopeful
Intermediate climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2003 - 07:41pm PT
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i could do that...but it costs money...which i dont have. it would also take time to look through and having you delve through your experiences saves me time and brings back good memories(hopefully).
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missing in action
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2003 - 09:46pm PT
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east buttress of middle cathedral(rated 10c but that section is extremely short and very well bolted.) nutcracker. reeds direct(epitome of valley crack climbing)
east buttress of el cap(also rated 10b but the 10b section is very short.)
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JJ
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2003 - 11:17pm PT
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Here are some good classics, mostly 10s. They all have star ratings in Reid's Guidebook (or at least most).
5.8
Little John Right
Cid's Embrace
5.9
Lancelot
Absolutely Free, Center
Northeast Buttress Higher Cathedral (long)
Steck-Salathe (long)
Chingando (yeah yeah 10a, but don't listen to anybody, the OW moves are 5.9)
Sacherer Cracker (Same as Chingando)
10a:
Free Press
Henly Quits
Renus Wrinkle (variation start to the ultra extream classic Nutcracker)
Reeds Direct (make sure you do the 3rd pitch)
Crack of Doom (north facing)
10b:
Jo Jo
Moby Dick Right (a.k.a. Ahab)
10c:
Waverly Wafer
Meat Grinder
Sherrie's Crack
Midterm
Stoner's Highway (long and north facing)
Nowhere Man (if you're bored)
10d:
Skinheads
Ying-Yang (North Facing, but not too chilly)
Twilight Zone
10.96
Hard
Steppin' Out
The Good Book (rock-fall activity 2001 season...)
Have fun! ;)
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Trad4life
Advanced climber
The Valley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 12:00am PT
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Yosemite hopeful - what a worthless piece of sh#t you are. Can't buy a guide, don't have the time to look through a copy at the Mtn. shop - you just want everything handed to you, don't you you ignorant f*#k? What's the matter with you - your gay lover left you and now you're turning tricks behind dumpsters in Fresno to scrum up enough $$$ to climb in the valley and act all bitchin? Get a life and stay home nobody wants to see you.
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bob
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 12:57am PT
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nice.
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Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 01:35am PT
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TradwithNOlife- holy christ dude, shut up. did you not read the post where dude said he wanted experiences.. instead, you vomit your fecal, er, grey matter on the guy who just asked a question. You were so obscene that you aren't even believable in your hate and sound more like a literate donny or an english speaking paco, which you probably are. Yes, I'm anonymous, KMA.
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Trad4life
Advanced climber
The Valley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 02:03am PT
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KMA f*#k you. He wanted experiences...sure he wanted that, but he also wanted info readily found in a guidebook...you know you asswipe...books - or are you really as stupid as your vacuous stare indicates? My hatred? Yes for pathetic subhuman turds like you I am. Why don't you invite him climbing so you can felch on belay ledges. Give me a break and KISS MY ASS you f*#king worthless sack of sh#t. Thought you were clever didn't you? You probably blow the valley rangers to promote access...
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Bob
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 03:06am PT
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Nice list JJ. Midterm is 10b, all time classic. Don't miss Gripper, and the first three pitches of New Dimensions (10b, 10a, 10a). Hardd is 11b (first pitch 11a).
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W Thin
Novice climber
Cookie Cliff
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 07:17am PT
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Wheat Thin...
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DS
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 11:04am PT
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I certainly didn't mean you should buy a guidebook you can't afford. However, lists of classic Yosemite 5.10 and unders can be found all over the place with just a little bit of searching.
As I mentioned, the list of climbs included in Yosemite Ultra Classics is good.
Tuan has a good one as well...
http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/yosemite/easy.html
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Nor Cal
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 12:01pm PT
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Jam Crack 5.7/5.9, follow the crowds.
Bishops Terrace 5.8, follow the beta page and do it in one pitch.
Reeds Direct 5.9/10a, be preparded to be schooled.
Ejesta 5.8, good route, no crowds
Positivley 4th Street, watch for posion oak on the approach.
Key Stone Corner 5.8, you'd be a fool not to toss a rope on five and dime.
Highway Star 10a, you can top rope this one.
There are lots more, this should get you started.
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H8er
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 01:16pm PT
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trad4life is not from the valley he wants you to think he is from. he is from the central valley(armpit) of ca. he has no penis, but can climb to some degree.(ok ok ok, to a high degree) so therefore we must forgive his teretz-like outbursts....you dont hate someone because they are mentaly retarded...right? swo lets all give trad4life a big hug and call it good. there there kid. we still love ya. keep yer chin up B.
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KMA
Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 01:33pm PT
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Hello dork, because I'm feeling sorry for you, I'll cut you some slack. Felch on belay ledges? Blow rangers for access? I wouldn't want your sloppy seconds, even if I didn't blow. These homophobic references make me wonder about you... If you need to practice your 'access' you can always look me up, I like 'em fiesty... otherwise, climb back into your trailer, crack a natty ice and shut the f*#k up.
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Karl Baba
Novice climber
Yosemite
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Somebody who is requesting climbs 5.10 and under probably shouldn't be getting recommendations like
Twilight Zone (for Hardman chubby-chasers)
10.96 (burly)
Hard (hello, 5.11)
Steppin' Out (rapped past it after doing independence pinnacle center, looked like the hardest 10d I'd ever seen)
Maybe 10d is too hard in general for somebody who wants 10 and under, but at least recommend the 10d for mortals like Serenity Crack
PS. Not knocking JJ. Thanks for the list, there's a couple there I haven't done and will put on my list
Karl
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Trad4life
Advanced climber
The Valley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 11:56pm PT
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KMA- Well you certainly are a wealth of knowledge - a little too well actually. Cut me some slack ha! F*#K YOU you worthless excuse for a human being. Not surprised you care for the rangers company - so you actually admit to it. Now your true worthlessness is exposed. When I see you I'm gonna put a bullet in your head motherf*#ker...so choke on this. To the Yosemite hopefull go get your own f*#king experiences you poser, mine aren't for you to know. Everyone else, why patronize this imbecell? Let him go to the Valley and figure it out for himself. What's next gear lists for every friggin route so it's color by numbers? F*#k! What the f*#k? F*#k all you f*#king f*#kers, go f*#king f*#k your f*#king selves.
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your mom
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 01:23am PT
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Dear Trad4life,
I ought to wash you mouth out with soap.
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bob
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 01:30am PT
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wow threataning to kill someone is mature, and extremely manly, especially since you are annonymous.
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1 i'd
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 01:34am PT
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This poor bumbly asks for a little advice and T4L tries to rip him a new as#@&%e -- rip everybody a new as#@&%e. A bit of ridicule would be fine, or some honest advice.
Tell the truth T4L, you are the illegitimate offspring of a Paco and Donny anal f*#kfest; you sure sound like you were born with a mouthful of sh#t.
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Ron
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 09:22am PT
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If I had one day in the Valley, I'd probably do Snake Dike. You get that great approach hike past Nevada and Vernal falls. You get a way too fun eight pitch climbing route. You get to stand on top of Half Dome. You get to look back down on the whole valley from the "rim". All that and you only need a rope and a handful of nuts. What more could you ask for? The topo? Yeah, that's free too!
The other option is the ultra classic Royal Arches Route. It has many of the same positives, but the descent puts a damper on the experience.
Whatever you do, make sure you get onto something tall. None of this single pitch stuff you can do at your home crag. Get to the top of something big!
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Ron
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 09:26am PT
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Oh, and take a headlamp. ;)
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KMA
Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 12:51pm PT
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bwaaahh haaa haaa. bullet in my head? bwaaahhh haaaa haa haa haaaa. man, now, thats funny. Now why would you get so upset about being called a homo if you weren't? a little dick now and then is good for you. You should put aside this repressed nonsense and try it. mmm tasty.
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P/D
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 12:59pm PT
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KMA did you not read the thread? How do you judge Mr. Montoya so harshly? Paco was a lover, not a hater. He was merely an unwilling receiver of hate from the ignorant! Let us not blame him for the limited acceptance of those who simply chose not to accept him into their cold, bigoted hearts. Paco was a simple man with a delightfully compicated mind, and a passion for bouldering. Let him remain in the soft and gentle light which mirrored the manner in which he lived his life.
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Howie
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 02:50pm PT
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Ron, I agree with Royal Arches but do the rap then there will be no damper!
H.
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KMA
Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 04:24pm PT
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I now see the light. My sincerest apologies to Paco and his kin.
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P/D
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 07:18pm PT
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S'all gud.
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jmlangford
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 07:38pm PT
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I really enjoyed Moby Dick Center...nice crack, finger jams at the start to off-width at the top. Rated 10a but might be a tad harder according to some people.
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?
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 08:48pm PT
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I suspect this is just a troll and that someone is continuing to instigate.
If you are really going toi the valley you will be buying at least ONE freaking guide book- how else do you plan to FIND the climbbs? Last time I checked there were no signs or name plates at the base of any of the cliffs.
ST is a fine book, if you already have Reids book, just chase the stars like everyone else does, there are usually there for a reason.
OK- you may now resume personally attacking one another.
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?
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 08:55pm PT
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btw- Mr (Ms?) hopeful climber:
If you are hoping that you can climb some 5.9 or 5.10, but have never been to Yosemite, either start on some 5.7-5.8 stuff or climb on borrowed gear (all the better to bail off of...).
Nutcracker (a 5 pitch 3 star 5.8) is great place to start if you are there midweek. If you feel good w/ that go do Little John Right on El Cap (also 5.8, 3 pitches) maybe a slight sandbag), then go up in grade from there.
Sometimes 5.9 is just that, but sometimes 5.9 is something to tell tales about on annomymous internet forums...
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Nor Cal
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 08:58pm PT
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Central Pillar of Frenzy, first 5 pitches.
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Inebriated squirrel
Novice climber
Degnan's
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2003 - 07:31pm PT
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Yo hopeful - you should just give up the idea of trying to do the Valley classics and instead just hang out with the cream of the crop here at the deli. Get buzzed and talk about the routes you've done...oh wait that won't work will it? Well perhaps you can be of some use if you show up and buy the beer.
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Satan
Novice climber
Hades / Hell / Hollywood
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2003 - 07:52pm PT
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Valley 10 and unders - boy, when I saw the subject line I thought all you pedophiles had gone too far. Then I saw you were just ripping the sh#t outta each other and it warmed my heart.......except Donny wasn't getting is ass kicked!
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Hellion
Novice climber
California Sur
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2003 - 10:15pm PT
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Satan - You may be onto something...I'm sure the rangers have a stash of 10's and under...let's find out more.
As for the rest of you why don't you bugger off and realize if you need to climb 10 and under here, you don't f*#kin' belong! Go back to whatever sorry excuse for a crag you call home and perish the thought of ever entering this fair valley; nay do not despoil the beauty everywhere around us with thy terrible countenance. The likes of you are better left for the beasts...
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Mike
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2003 - 12:53pm PT
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I think the royal arches descent is WAY easier than the Snake Dike approach. At least it's downhill, and the views of HD and merced canyon are awesome!
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clustiere
Trad climber
Rock Ridge/ Oakland CA
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Trad 4 life has no life outside of climbing so please excuse his protectiveness. (he's very insecure)
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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Yes, and they say comedy is all about the timing.
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James Doty
Trad climber
Idyllwild, Ca.
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I have not laughed that hard or felt the desire to post in a long time. Trad4Life you are a Complete and Total Stud, CTS team leader even. Wait, that's me. Alright, CTS 2IC.
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