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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 10, 2010 - 11:42am PT
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Rich Romano, one of the most prolific climbers in the history of the Shawangunks and the primary developer of the Millbrook Cliff as well as other outlying areas, recently had a serious accident at City of Rocks, Idaho. His rope, which was too short for the pitch he was lowering off, ran through the belay, resulting in a serious fall. Full details about the accident and his recovery are on the gunks.com thread
http://gunks.com/ubbthreads7/ubbthreads.php/topics/54460/ALWAYS_tie_a_knot_at_the_end_o#Post54460
Rich's insurance is supposed to cover the enormous helicopter evacuation and hospitalization costs, but it does not cover his ongoing post-ER visits and the various co-pays and deductibles, all at a time of lost income from the inability to work.
A few of us have have started a project to raise some cash for Rich for his ongoing medical expenses and at the same time provide some value to climbers, based on Rich's extensive and in many cases exclusive knowledge of Millbrook. We are producing a series of "harness route cards" for "The Bank," Rich's affectionate name for the cliff. These are 4 X 6 cards, laminated, with a cord loop that can be clipped to a harness. The cards will have two or three classic routes on a high-resolution photo. The photos we are using afford nearly straight-across views that show superb cliff detail, at an angle that is easily interpreted by a climber at the base of the routes. There is no comparison between the photos we are using and the aerial photos in any of the current guidebooks, which are exceptionally hard to interpret and which, because of the time of day they were taken, fail to reveal even massive features of the cliff.
In large part because of Rich's efforts, Millbrook is one of the "traddest" cliffs in the country. There isn't a single bolt anywhere, and perhaps a handful of fixed pitons, just about all of them from the early soft-iron days of climbing in the U.S. Almost every route is in the same condition as it was on the first ascent. It's steepness, functionally remote location, and the seriousness of many (but not all) of the routes makes Millbrook one of the premier destinations for high-level trad climbing in the country.
The route cards are an attempt to make some of the mysteries of Millbrook just a touch more accessible without, we fervently hope, reducing the cliff to the modern paint-in-the numbers beta-fest that now dilutes the trad experience worldwide. In keeping with the adventurous spirit of Millbrook climbing pioneered by Rich, the cards show clearly where the routes go, give their grades, but leave all the other details of the ascent to the climber.
We are planning on producing a combination of classics at various levels of difficulty, some of which do not appear in any of the Shawangunk guidebooks. The first card is now ready. It lists two of the best and most accessible routes at Millbrook, Westward Ha!, among the best 5.7's in the Gunks, and Cruise Control (a Romano Route), a superb line at 5.9-. On the flip side is a schematic map of the best trail approach to Millbrook from the West Trapps parking lot and the location of the standard rappel tree.
we are selling the cards through Rock and Snow for $5. Because of the support and generosity of Rock and Snow, every penny of the $5 price of the card goes to Rich. Please feel free to add an additional donation if the spirit moves you. We can only handle either cash, if you want to send it through the mail, or a personal check made out to Rich Romano. Send a stamped self-addressed envelope big enough to hold a 4x 6 card to
Romano Fund
Rock & Snow
44 Main Street
New Paltz, NY 12561,
Or stop by Rock and Snow if you are up at the Gunks.
Have a safe and happy holiday season, and remember to tie a knot in the end of your rope whenever lowering is involved.
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scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
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Dec 10, 2010 - 11:58am PT
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Thanks for posting up, Rich.
This seems to be a wonderful, creative fundraising tactic.
As an aside, this kind of accident seems to be unusually frequent at
City of Rocks, and I don't think my impression is solely based on
familiarity with the area.
Seems a lot of the climbs are just a little bit longer than they look, or
the belayer needs to get into that patch of shade just a few feet away,
or something.
The switch from 50m to 60m ropes reduced the action on some climbs, but I
guess it shifted things to a different set of slightly longer ones.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
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good project.
climber, injury, insurance won't fully cover is becoming depressingly familiar.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
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As a way of bumping the thread, here's a sample of the type of image we'll be providing.
It has been compressed for web viewing so has lost some of its resolution. Still, you can see that the perspective and level of detail will enable one to find routes pretty easily when they are drawn in. And anyone with a Gunks guidebook that has a section on Millbrook can compare photos and see the substantial difference in usefulness.
If anyone has shots of Rich climbing to post, it would be a nice way of keeping this thread visible for a while...
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Dec 10, 2010 - 03:42pm PT
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This is a worthy cause, Richard. Thanks for the information.
The route cards look really nicely designed.
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adam d
climber
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Dec 10, 2010 - 03:51pm PT
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Bummmp...I could've used that last picture when I was on White Corner! (Fun route!) The corner is obvious, but how to get to it wasn't for me.
Best wishes for Rich healing up without bankruptcy.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 10, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
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Will for sure be stopping into Rock and Snow when I come home for the holidays in a week or so...
Big Bump for a major name from my home cliffs...
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 10, 2010 - 06:39pm PT
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Bump for Rich Romano!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Dec 10, 2010 - 06:50pm PT
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is there a paypal for donations?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Dec 10, 2010 - 06:50pm PT
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I'll do what I can, though I am in dire straits myself. This trip to
the Gunks not long ago, where I got to stay with various friends, and so
forth, brought me to a whole deeper understanding of what a fine bunch
of people live out there and how phenomenal they all are as climbers...
Rich, of course, was certainly equal to any stonemaster on the other side of the country and one rad climber...
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 10, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
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Best wishes to Rich: I met him very briefly, when I was climbing with Donini at City of Rocks, earlier in August. He & Mim were then going backpacking in the Sawtooths, and it makes sense they would have stopped by City of Rocks on their way back to SLC.
I'm very glad things turned out as well as they have.
I never saw anything about this accident in Idaho news sources. Even a Google search doesn't show much except a tidbit dated to 1996. Park ranger Brad Schilling reported that there were six other serious accidents that year at City of Rocks “caused by a belayer letting the rope-end through the belay device.” From About.com http://climbing.about.com/od/climbingknots/a/StopKnotBelay.htm
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2010 - 09:26pm PT
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is there a paypal for donations?
Not at the moment, TK. We've just got this thing off the ground while juggling the multiple other responsibilities of life and work.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 10, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
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thanks for the opportunity to help Rich out, Richard,
Millbrook is a wonderful place, though I only did one route out there, at least that I recorded...Strange City 5.7, in September of 1993... I remember it being one of those sublime autumn days with the trees starting to change, and great views to the Hudson River.
It was a melancholy occasion, a long time climbing partner was moving away to the west... it was sort of a last climb together in the 'Gunks, we were sitting up on one of the higher pitch ledges, all alone, and a bald-Eagle flies by below us... punctuating the magical day.
Always wanted to return... the cards would give it some impetus...
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Dec 10, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
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PayPal is not at all difficult to set up. Worth trying to find the time to get that done, if possible. Can use an email address dedicated specifically to the donations, and link payments directly to Rich's bank account.
Best of luck to Rich as he recovers through all this.
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Dec 10, 2010 - 10:29pm PT
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Awesome day at The Bank: Rich & Miriam on Sweet Meat, Tony and Felix on Lessons in History, and for us, Time Being.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 10, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
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Hope you have a speedy and complete recovery, Rich R, and thanks for bringing this to our attention RGold. I'll do what little I can to help. A paypal acct really would help out.
-JelloWishesRichASpeedyRecovery
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MH2
climber
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Dec 10, 2010 - 10:48pm PT
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Thanks for posting here Richard. I've sent a contribution. I remember Rich from his earliest days at the Gunks and he is a strong connection to the spirit of those times.
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 10, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
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Rich in 1977.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 11, 2010 - 01:59am PT
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Bump
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2010 - 03:07am PT
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The beautiful top pitch of Cruise Control, one of Romano's early routes at Millbrook and one of the two on our first card.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2010 - 03:19am PT
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Coming soon to a card on your harness, A Lesson in History, one of the longest routes in the Gunks, and no slouch in terms of atmosphere either:
Photo by Chris Fracchia
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 11, 2010 - 11:54am PT
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Bump to the top.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 11, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
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Bump
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 11, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
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Richie on Country Club Crack in 1975.
We worked on this bottom bit all day and then finally we each got it and did the climb.
I didn't even know he was in Colorado. I was soloing some easy route on Castle Rock, I was sitting on a ledge talking to some buddies when I looked down and saw this stocky guy walking around. I though "wow, that looks like Romano", I yelled down "Richie" and he looked up. We ended up climbing a fair bit together that trip. The Naked Edge had just been free climbed, I wanted to go up on it but Richie didn't think we could do it. We drank a lot of beer at the Dark Horse in Boulder...
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 11, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
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Bump
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
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Vulcan, I too worry about the Mac Wall crowd showing up en mass at MB. On the other hand, I'd be pretty psyched to see most of those I've corresponded with on SuperTopo there. In any case, I think we've been careful to keep the adventure level high by showing where the routes go without loading up on beta. The cards don't indicate where to belay and don't indicate where the cruxes are, they just show where to go. There is less information there than guidebooks provide for almost any other area, other than, say, the schematic sketches one has for some of the lesser-traveled regions. It is absolutely nothing like, like, well, like Super Topo.
In any case, since you have 25 years in the Gunks, you know Millbrook is pretty well defended. It is unrelentingly steep, the rock can be chossy, especially at the beginning of routes, and run-outs are inevitable. There's an hour walk in and out, climbs are reached by rappel to a ledge midway up the crag, and any accident requiring a rescue would entail a substantial and prolonged technical effort that probably would stretch until well after dark.
There's a whole segment of the nouveau-trad climbing population in the Gunks that just isn't going to go out there, not with hundreds of routes just a few steps off the carriage road and enough beta in books and the internet to get you half-way around the world, never mind about up 200 feet of cliff.
As for not belonging there if you can't find the route, I think that's a bit strong. For one thing, some of the routes we are working up aren't in any guidebook. Basically, Rich and a few others at most know about them, and Rich is comfortable letting a bigger circle of enthusiasts know about them. For another thing, current guidebook information is in many cases either outdated, inaccurate, or both, as well as being extremely hard to follow in many cases. I have basically double your years of Gunks experience, and there are quite a few Millbrook routes I've had a ton of trouble finding, and succeeded only after personal conversations with Rich.
As for what Rich does or does not want, I'm sure that is a complicated issue and I am not going to presume to speak for him. I'm sure he does have some concerns, as do we all, but I can also assure you that we would not have undertaken this project without his blessing. And part of the point of it all is that by virtue of sharing his extensive knowledge, he isn't just putting out his hand for help, he is giving back to the community one of the most precious things anyone has to offer, the knowledge of things they are passionate about.
For all these reasons, we are comfortable with what we are doing, and hope that you too will be able to find peace with the idea.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
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Edit: Vulcan nuked the post that this responded to, but I'm going to leave the response anyway since it may address thoughts others are having.
If you spend some time looking around the internet (an activity I can't recommend), you'll find few people who have argued as long and as hard as I have for keeping places like Lost City undocumented (a policy which I think has nonetheless failed in its intent, but that is another issue altogether).
Unlike many people, I have come to realize that I have absolutely no problem about "secret" crags. No one is obliged to share information, and no one is entitled to the information others have sweated to gather. But Millbrook is not a secret, nor has anyone ever suggested it should be. It has been documented since the very first Gunks guidebook. The reason the population is so low there compared to the Trapps and Near Trapps is the accessibility combined with the seriousness of the place. In any case, we are making no attempt at anything like comprehensive coverage, just a few routes.
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Dec 11, 2010 - 05:03pm PT
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RGold
Post deleted. Your right.
Does Rich have the same mailing address
that he did 10 years ago.
Check will be in the mail.
Also the 1 hour walk in can
be reduced to 20.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 11, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
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This kind of story makes me sad and angry at the same time.
This is so easy to avoid. C'mon people THINK!
Climbing is fun, but it is fun because it is serious.
Do we need cards on people's harnesses reminding them to tie in?
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jstan
climber
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Dec 11, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
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This is the first reference I have seen as regards how the Lost City policy played out. When I first decided I opposed guidebook coverage of the area I thought two benefits would accrue even when (not if) the basic information was generally available.
1. There would be some diversity. Not a uniform experience.
2. People would have occasion to talk to each other. That is always good.
As you remember that was part of my argument we should just stop at 5.10. We all have as much fun arguing about comparative difficulty between climbs as we do climbing them. Grading things to the level 5.13e- R/X has not changed the arguing in the slightest. Think how bad it would be if everyone were given a special induction physical with measurement of their dimensions and was then provided a plastic card with a lookup table showing how all the grades should be adjusted for each person, based upon their physical test.
There is no better experience than that of having no information while standing below some rock. When approached that way, no matter success or failure, it is all fun.
If we had our heads on straight we would let every ascent be a first ascent.
Whymper has been dead a long time.
Why do we refuse to let the little bugger go?
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Dec 11, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
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let's get this back on track.
send some $$$$ for Rich.
no more off topic stuff.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Dec 11, 2010 - 08:16pm PT
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We don't climb at the Gunks but would like to make a small donation to help towards medical expenses.
A Paypal acct would be great. It only takes 5 minutes to set one up...
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 11, 2010 - 11:08pm PT
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Bump
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2010 - 12:07am PT
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Do we need cards on people's harnesses reminding them to tie in?
No, we don't Ron. The cards we created don't have a single word about this. Perhaps you have misunderstood the point?
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 12, 2010 - 01:07am PT
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Bump, Bump it Up!
Romano on Manifest Destiny 12d/13a R at Millbrook
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 12, 2010 - 09:50am PT
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Another shot of Romano on Sudden Impact 5.12 R at Millbrook
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 12, 2010 - 11:37am PT
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Bump
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2010 - 11:59am PT
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A number of people have asked for a PayPal account as a way of helping Rich out without necessarily purchasing a Millbrook route card. We've set up such an account linked to the email address RomanoFund@yahoo.com.
You need to have a PayPal account yourself, in which case you can use PayPal's "Send Money" feature, clicking the "Personal" tab and selecting the "Gift" button---see
Sending Money via Pay Pal
You can also use this vehicle as a way to purchase Millbrook route cards, but would then click the "Purchase" tab and select the "goods" button.
Thank all of you so much for your willingness to help in a time of need.
Wishing everyone the very best of holiday seasons
---Richard
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 12, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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How many of these cards are in the works?
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 12, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
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A Calef/Romano Millbrook classic, Square Meal 5.11...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
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Not sure yet Steve. I've got photos of the entire cliff done, but we have no plans to produce cards for parts of the crag which are on private land in view of the sensitive situation right now in Gardiner. Production does take time and effort, and we are doing it one card at a time. Currently there are two of us involved in the design and execution, myself and cfrac, who has been posting the fantastic shots of Romano routes to this thread. The cards are being produced by Dot Generation, a printing business owned by a local climber.
Of course, our ongoing efforts will be also be governed by the response to whatever we have produced.
We do have a longer range plan to have a website documenting the history of climbing at Millbrook, and that would be a place where analogously spare route diagrams could show up. But that is on hold for now.
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 12, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
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Rich with Chuck Calef, 1981.
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SeaJellie
Trad climber
Booolduh
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Dec 12, 2010 - 01:59pm PT
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Romano is a force of a nature and a wonderful character. I'll never forget the all-too-few days that I got to climb and mtn bike with him in '94. Check on the way, and thanks for doing this.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 12, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
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I hope my dismay was not taken wrong. I wish Rich the best.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Dec 12, 2010 - 06:30pm PT
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RR on Bird Cage in 2008 with a cast on his arm.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 12, 2010 - 10:15pm PT
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Bump
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Dec 12, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
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so 100 people bid it up to $300.
same people send Rich $10. Rich gets $1000.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2010 - 12:26am PT
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I guess that's possible, V, but isn't more likely in your hypothetical first case that Rich gets $1,290?
A beautiful shot by John. I just managed to dodder up that route about a month ago...
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Seth
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Dec 13, 2010 - 10:42am PT
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Please keep these Millbrook photos coming, they are awesome.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Dec 13, 2010 - 11:17am PT
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Hoping the best best for Rich.
Here is a great shot that I sell a fair amount of... 13x19, 20 x 24 matted.
All the cash goes to Richie.
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Dec 13, 2010 - 11:29am PT
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I like your math better, Richard.
Sweet photo John O. I saw that on a poster in the Gunks.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 13, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
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Bump...
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 13, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
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Richie the day he did Supercrack, 1981.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Dec 13, 2010 - 03:38pm PT
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Bump for Rich.
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Rickster
Trad climber
Pine Bush,NY
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Dec 13, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
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Bump with photos.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Dec 13, 2010 - 05:32pm PT
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Really sorry to hear of this. All the best to Romano, and his partner, who must also be suffering right now. It's hard to be always, ruthlessly vigilant when you're supposed to be having fun.
I'd be interested to know exactly which route or formation this accident occurred at. We had some issues over pitch lengths last summer, visiting at City of Rocks (we dragged a skinny, spare rope around with us, so we'd be covered). Guidebook info on lengths seemed a bit uncertain sometimes. Love the place. We will be back. A location-specific heads up would be much appreciated.
This info may be posted somewhere (if so, my apologies), but I'm not seeing it.
thanks
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 13, 2010 - 06:58pm PT
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Bump...
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 13, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
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A couple more. Romano following p1 (5.8/5.9 R/X) of his route White Rose and leading p2 5.11. Romano's routes are simply amazing, they are as high quality as they are bold!
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 13, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
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The last pic was taken Spring of 2010, and yes he still climbs these routes in a 1 inch tubular swami! Post up your pics of Millbrook if you got 'em.
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 13, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Dec 13, 2010 - 11:16pm PT
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I have a rare Art Gran guidebook (red) to the Gunks that will go to the highest bidder with all the cash going to Richie.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2010 - 08:25am PT
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Bump for auctions...
Thanks so much Bob and John.
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 14, 2010 - 08:36am PT
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Yet another Romano classic, pitch one of Time Eraser
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Dec 14, 2010 - 09:38am PT
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Sorry, but I am really stupid when it comes to computers. The Gunks is not the only place where Rich has done quality 1st ascents.
Check out "Ambush Peak", in the Wind Rivers, under google. Look at the photo taken by Fred Hansellman on his website. Rich and Chuck put in a route on the main face of Ambush, which goes up just right of the huge overhangs. They didn't even right it up! It's 5.10 or harder-close to 2000 feet of climbing.
Rgold, I know you have climbed on Ambush. Perhaps you could post a photo of the face. A good picture can be found on the second page of Google - " photo taken from Hailey Pass". I'm to stupid to know how to post the link here.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Dec 14, 2010 - 10:27am PT
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That's a funny story!!
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Dec 14, 2010 - 10:51am PT
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$200 bid for Art Gran Red Gunks Guide. Should be 1964 issue?
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Dec 14, 2010 - 10:55am PT
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 14, 2010 - 11:09am PT
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Morgan's photo "somewhere on top" shows the wild finish of Rich's route Hang 'Em High.
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jstan
climber
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Dec 14, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
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"Pitch 1 of Rib Cracker FFA by Jstan."
Looks like a great route. Wonder who did it?
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Dec 14, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
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Rib Cracker 5.8+ PG
FA Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus, Warner Bischof, 1961
FFA John Stannard, 1968 (Respect)
Our team: Andreas Huettinger (Switzerland), Moritz Wirth (Germany), Chad Hussey (USA)
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Dec 14, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
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bump for a good cause and a fabulous thread--superb pics!
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 14, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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Bump
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 14, 2010 - 03:00pm PT
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Rich on Neural Elasticity,late 80's.
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 14, 2010 - 04:36pm PT
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Rich photo bump.
Rich on ?
Something at Bonticou right, late 80's.
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Dec 14, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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cfrac:
In your photo of Rich on SUDDEN IMPACT, can you see Rich Gottlieb's route WHITE KNUCKLES in the background?
P.S. Great photo. I didn't notice the belayer in shadow in the green shirt until I enlarged it.
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 14, 2010 - 08:25pm PT
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P1 Cuckoo Man
P2 Cuckoo Man
Realm of the 5th Class Climber
Westward Ha!
Cruise Control
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 14, 2010 - 10:20pm PT
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Back up to the top you go!!!!
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 15, 2010 - 12:56am PT
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Bump
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 15, 2010 - 08:04am PT
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cfrac:
In your photo of Rich on SUDDEN IMPACT, can you see Rich Gottlieb's route WHITE KNUCKLES in the background?
P.S. Great photo. I didn't notice the belayer in shadow in the green shirt until I enlarged it.
The belayer in standing in the White Rose corner, the next corner behind him is White Corner and I believe White Knuckles is on the face (out of view) beyond White Corner.
It is a great shot, but I didn't take it.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 15, 2010 - 10:03am PT
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Back up front!!!!
Help Rich out, PLEASE!!!!
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 15, 2010 - 11:55am PT
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bump
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Dec 15, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
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Vulcan..it is the red Art gran guide.
I also have a copy of my new Shelf Road guide to add plus my Boulder Canyon guide...signed and delivered for $45.
All money goes to Richie.
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Dec 15, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
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Bob
OK I bid $300 for all 3.
Ten or so years ago I brokered a deal that
got Rich a Art Gran Red Guidebook in cherry
condition for $200.
Also if I get this guide it will be given to
a guy whose back yard looks directly at Millbrook.
His "backyard" is something like 25 acres
which will not be developed.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Dec 15, 2010 - 02:34pm PT
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Vulcan...ok...just get the money to Richie, tell him what is for, then just drop me a line with your information and I get the books out to you.
This could be a nice little xmas gift for Richie.
Bob
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Dec 15, 2010 - 02:42pm PT
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Bob
I will send Rich the $300 today with a note what it is for.
I'm in Ca. so it will take up to 5 days.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Dec 15, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
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WOW - Okner's photo is otherworldly fine
great thread, great fundraiser.
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Muddud
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Dec 15, 2010 - 03:36pm PT
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i adore that photo.
and this thread.
sending all my hopes for a good recovery to rich.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Dec 15, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
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Vulcan...thanks. I will send the books tomorrow or Friday. Thanks for buying and thanks for helping Richie out.
Richie on Terra Firma...
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Dec 15, 2010 - 06:48pm PT
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Your more than welcome.
Rich took this picture.
Name the climb and $100 goes to Rich.
It's a Gunks route.
Anyone can play.
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 15, 2010 - 07:02pm PT
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First Ascent of Stardust Memories
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Dec 15, 2010 - 09:14pm PT
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A reminder to anyone skimming through this thread for the first time that the email address for sending a gift via paypal account is:
romanofund@yahoo.com
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 15, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
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And this thread belongs up top!
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Dec 16, 2010 - 12:33am PT
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Yep, johnokner it's Max Factor.
$100 for RR.
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 16, 2010 - 08:02am PT
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Photo bump.
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Dec 16, 2010 - 04:41pm PT
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Richie must love the feeling of being way out there. He told me that one of the times he did Creation, he accidently kicked out one of his big cams which was THE protection and was facing the monster x-rated whipper.
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 16, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
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Who can name this route? Yes it's one of Romano's Bank explorations...
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 17, 2010 - 12:42am PT
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Bump
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 17, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
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bump...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 17, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
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Rich is a SUPER class guy, I'll jump right on this as soon as I return from Patagonia.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2010 - 09:24am PT
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Rich is a SUPER class guy, I'll jump right on this as soon as I return from Patagonia.
YES, and thank you, Jim.
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 19, 2010 - 02:44pm PT
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bump
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
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Steep unrelenting climbing on a new route, a ground-up ascent with no previewing of any kind, small gear, tiring and tricky to place, and the way ahead unclear: Romano in his element.
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 19, 2010 - 10:45pm PT
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White Corner
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 20, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
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bump
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 20, 2010 - 01:41pm PT
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It's Christmas, donate to Rich!!!!1
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
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Todd, here are the Pay Pal details. (They also appear earlier in the thread, but a repetition isn't harmful...)
You need to have a PayPal account yourself. Use PayPal's "Send Money" feature, clicking the "Personal" tab and selecting the "Gift" button.
In the "To" email field, enter RomanoFund@yahoo.com.
See
Sending Money via Pay Pal
You can also use this vehicle as a way to purchase Millbrook route cards, but would then click the "Purchase" tab and select the "goods" button.
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 20, 2010 - 09:22pm PT
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Looking out from Nectar Vector
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 21, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
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Rich on Rib Cracker...
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 21, 2010 - 09:28pm PT
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Rich on Flashpoint.
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 22, 2010 - 07:48pm PT
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Marco Fedrizzi belayed by Rich.
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 22, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2010 - 12:12am PT
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Romano fiddlin' in tiny wires...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2010 - 12:41am PT
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On the way out to Millbrook with Todd Dias in the Fall
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 23, 2010 - 06:15am PT
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Rich, nice photo, but are you sure it was taken in the Fall?
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Dec 23, 2010 - 06:21am PT
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
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Rich, nice photo, but are you sure it was taken in the Fall?
I couldn't remember when it was taken---Fall is just a wild guess.
The camera, by the way, was a cardboard drugstore point & shoot.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2010 - 01:34pm PT
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Here's a perspective-corrected version of cfrac's Millbrook Shot (that cliff ain't no slab, Jack).
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 25, 2010 - 11:04am PT
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Holiday bump for Rich!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
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I posted this in DMT's Clique of cliques thread, but it is certainly appropriate to have it here too.
The response so far of Supertopians to our appeal has been amazing and deeply moving. May you all have the very best of holiday seasons, and may your new year be filled with both love and adventure.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
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Note that "running laps" for Romano means repeatedly leading the route (leaving originally-placed gear in place, but still...).
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Dec 28, 2010 - 11:37pm PT
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Richie...hope you had a great holiday.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 29, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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Bump...
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 31, 2010 - 08:46am PT
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Bump...
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Mim
Trad climber
Gunks
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This is a note from Rich:
"There are no words to express the gratitude I feel about the outpouring of compassion I received from close and afar, from friends and strangers, following this accident... I am deeply moved. We are all very fortunate to be part of such an amazing community of people.
The concussion side effects (short-term memory issues and insomnia) are very slow to heal and frustrate me, but everything else seems to be coming along. I hope to be back in action by this spring.
Again, thank you so very much for the unbelievable support you all sent my way in this difficult time. It made a BIG difference.
I also want to especially thank Rich G. and Chris F. for their remarkable and successful fund raising endeavor. That too made a BIG difference. Thanks to all who participated.
Wishing you all good health for the new year,
Rich
End Quote"
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Thanks for the update. Though I've never met Rich, I certainly know of him and wish him well in fast and complete healing.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2011 - 11:35am PT
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I'm bumping this up so that more folks have a chance of seeing Rich's heartfelt thank-you to the climbing community.
It is important for everyone to know that their generosity has made a substantial difference in Rich's recovery. Chris Fracchia and I would like to add our own expression of gratitude for a response that has far exceeded all expectations. We are not finished with our efforts; a second route card is nearly ready for the printers.
The world is wracked by strife, there is a toxic political climate at home, and many of us are struggling with our own finances. In this atmosphere, the selfless coming together of a community to help one of its own is a spark of light in the darkness. Thank you all, and may the new year be good to you.
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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A bit of a teaser of the Gunks Mega-Route Lessons in History,
coming soon!!!!
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MH2
climber
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Back to the top, Rich.
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cfrac
Trad climber
Gardiner,NY
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Wow Rich! That's a great photo of that section of the cliff!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jan 11, 2011 - 02:34am PT
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a bump for a really phenomenal climber
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richross
Trad climber
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Jan 11, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
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Rich climbing in sneakers to "save rubber"(climbing shoe rubber).
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richross
Trad climber
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Jan 15, 2011 - 06:26pm PT
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Rich on Rhumba Mama.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jan 15, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
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bump for climbing
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richross
Trad climber
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Jan 26, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
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Rich Romano photo bump!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, rgold... and for rich romano...
ohmy.... i am sorry, i never saw this...
*i think i was learning i was going to be moving, etc, back then... and then, soon i was busy...
mostlikely i thought this was just help a climber, as to funds and since i could not do so, i tried to just post or keep on track as to my moving, etc...
dear rich:
now, i see it was an accident, and a climber hurt...
keep getting strong, and working on getting well...
there are stil victories to be had, even though, at times, you may not see them, and they may seem clouded..
each meadow, is there, no matter how many wooded and rocky areas seem to keep you away from them...
god bless you rich and deep as you make your trail victories through all this hard trail...
my prayers are joined in here, now, too...
sorry i did not help with at least prayer support, earlier... :(
now, may a happier new year, still be yours, and to your loved ones, as well...
:)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 27, 2011 - 04:05pm PT
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Bump
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
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Thanks for bringing this back. After a while, it seems that everyone has already seen it and there is little hope of raising any additional funds.
The effort has raised more than any of us thought remotely possible, thanks to a wonderful response from the climbing community. In addition to the generous contributions made by many from this site and from gunks.com, Rich received a truly remarkable contribution from an anonymous climber that totally changed the game and made it look, for the first time, as if his total indebtedness could be successfully addressed over time.
In spite of all these heartwarming responses, we still need to raise some more cash for Rich, even if it trickles in over time. The new route cards advertised in the Round 2 thread, http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1379530/Help-a-Climber-Round-2, are at this point our primary vehicle, and we hope that anyone planning to visit the Gunks this year and looking for some good old-fashioned real trad climbing would consider getting some of these.
We've still got lots of snow, but the days are getting longer and the Spring climbing season will soon be upon us. Climb well and come back safe everyone.
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