Question from Kevin and Tommy re: pending storm...
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Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 17, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
They are on Wino tower and trying to decide if they are safe to wait out the storm there or move somewhere safer. Does anyone have storm beta/experience for Wino Towers? Please advise.

Werner said on the other thread: "I wouldn't want to be on Wino Towers in any storm." Please elaborate.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Nov 17, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
From checking out the satellite for the pacific this could end up being a major storm with LOTS of precip.

Check out the tropical moisture being sucked north and the cold front moving south.

http://www.ssd.noaa.gov/goes/west/nepac/flash-rb.html

To early to tell yet, but I wouldn't bet my life on it being a minor event.
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:00am PT
Look at the streaks on the Wall. Water flows there. Or to there. It's not a tucked spot. It would be a poor place to try to wait something out. Especially the first real storm of the season.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:09am PT
come down and get baked, guys,

i will buy you a double xl pepperoni pizza after we sit around the fire and get baked.

then i will help you with the tough stuff next spring.

if that rock gets wet, you will be like a three legged turtle trying to catch a rabbit.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:30am PT
Come to your senses men...come down and get baked like the good doctor said or stay up there and get hosed..
WBraun

climber
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:34am PT
LOL you guys are killin me.

Anyways ....

Jerry Wino Towers is completely exposed to the elements.

I thought I saw the team have their fixed ropes still reaching to the ground?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:41am PT
Some thoughts:


Wino is unprotected. Looking at the area via

http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/yose_deepzoom/index.html

and zooming in like crazy, it looks like it gets hosed from above, maybe not really concentrated runoff but nonetheless, streams. The spot is also windy and turbulent. And there aren't any hiding places for hundreds of feet. Maybe something lower?

I am thinking they have to decide if there are enough good climbing days in the next week and a half to finish and make it worthwhile sticking it out. They must have heavy duty flies on the ledge(s) and can make it but it will be rough and the coming blast looks to be 36 hours or more and then crap off and on for days. Weather reports don’t show high winds--- that sure helps. There may be issues of falling ice... and the route from there on up isn’t truly shielded from icefall. It is going to be in the low 20’s up there.

It is a tough decision but then that’s what those guys are good at doing. New twist.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:42am PT
Lookin like a pineapple connection. Gonna be cold and wet.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:45am PT
It sucks to back off something because of a weather report, rather than the weather itself, but sometimes it's the right call.

Snow levels are supposed to be low with this one. Ice falling might be an issue. Plus- will it be dry enough to send when the storm clears?
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:48am PT
yes, free showers at the Holiday Wino,

if your lucky, your shower will start at 4 in the morning, just when you finally get so tired you can sleep.

currently, our hot water heater is on the fritz, so we beg for your mercy,

and the matress might be a little hard, just watch out for those weird bed bugs they just discovered crawling beneath the rocks, some type of mutated scorpion, with dealy fangs and an appetite for burned out climbers,
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:51am PT
They can make it. Others have too and so did the FA party, repeatedly. The real question is whether they should bother to in the hope there are enough good climbing days after this front arrives and passes or lessens. They are cached to the gills. The wall really heats up quick and is a great place to be in winter but it is so unprotected. Icefall from above...
kjorgeson

climber
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:56am PT
Mainly worried about icefall after the storm and wondering if anyone has direct experience with Wino Tower in this scenario. Thanks. Cheers from pitch 12
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:57am PT
Second that. The storm is supposed to be a major one, 1-2 ft of snow above 6,000 ft, and very windy; which specifically means large amounts of ice will form everywhere up top, including places not necessarily subject to concentrated drainage. Bad enough to be camped out right about at the freeze line (above it would probably be better!), but the fusillades of massive icicles would be a problem. It's a great show if you ever have the luck to be skiing around the valley floor after a foot of new, but it could be ugly to be stationary somewhere up there.
213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
Nov 18, 2010 - 01:01am PT
First big cold wave of the year!
Winds will start to pick up tomorrow afternoon and will increase as the momentum arrives with the 120+kt upper level jet 12km NAM at sjsu has a gridpoint near Valley and shows 700mb flow right up valley at 30-50+ knots (sustained value). 850mb chart shows barrier jet forming along sacramento valley at 20-40knots. Haven't spent enough time in valley to know how such conditions will translate high on the big stone. But it seems as though a northerly barrier jet coupled with strong midlevel sw'erly momentum would make for kite-friendly conditions up there. moisture arrives mid to late day friday and really starts nuking saturday.

Cold front arrives late on 18th-early morning 19th and drops 850mb temps to 32F late on 20th. Snow levels will thus be starting around 4k (850mb is roughly 4000ft ) and drop as cold air advection continues after frontal passage and until full saturation of atmosphere occurs. precipitable water is not super impressive (25-35mm h20) so total accumulations will be limited to a couple feet (more to the north) or so feet despite vicious upper level divergence associated with the jet exit region and orthogonal flow to the crest (good for orographic uplifting).

SO! If they can send it tomorrow/early on 19th GO FOR IT! But if not, this will be a blustery, chilly, snowy one! It will be brutally cold after this one passes by, so get your puffy's out!

Hope this helps!
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 01:02am PT
Down...
213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
Nov 18, 2010 - 01:09am PT
Icefall forecast!
Hmmm, no direct experience with this, but here's my best guess. Ice will likely form given the cold conditions and relatively warm ground surface and residual thermal inertia of the sierra nevada batholith. Snow will contact the warm surface, melt, and ice up under cold air temperatures. I do not know the degree of exposure to falling ice at Wino Tower. But, temperatures will be cold after the storm and hopefully this will reduce the quantity of falling ice (versus if we had very warm post storm conditions). I think another benefit of the storm starting cold is that there will not be a lot of liquid water available to form ice, it will mainly be due to melting snow on rock. So, total ice accumulation may be limited by this. I wish I had more experience seeing how and under what conditions the ice forms atop the captain!!!! Good luck boys, be safe, and give 'er!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
Oakland
Nov 18, 2010 - 01:26am PT
Huh, sounds like they might be needing some ice tools and screws. Did they pack that?

Whenever I have to bail from even a stupid hike I remind myself that that hike/route/mountain isn't going anywhere.
I also know bailing for me has basically no implications unlike them. Best of luck whatever they do.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
Nov 18, 2010 - 01:39am PT
Ice from El Cap falls off in whispy little sheets. At most, they'd need like some aspirin if something hit them.
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:04am PT
I'm afraid I disagree with Biotch: I have seen quite massive quantities of giant icicles and sheets fall from El Cap and all other cliffs in the Valley on the day following a storm that dumped about 12-16 inches on the floor. And Mike, above, is right that they frisbee around and hit all over the place. I would think the only truly safe place from the ice fall is under a large roof. Unfamiliar with Dawn Roof but presumably it's a good one.

213's weather info is fantastically detailed but empirically I can affirm that ice will indeed form, large amounts of it, no matter what the storm temps. Whether this is rime, from stuff mashed into the wall by high winds, or meltw#ter from the warmth of the rock (which does not just go away in a few hours of low storm temps), or a combination, or just the paradox of weird stuff that water does, I cannot explain. But it will be there in quantity, and bright sun even with low temps will be enough to send it crashing down (see above). And anyways, whether climbing or bailing, they're going to have to wait for sun and/or warmth, so whatever ice is there, will be coming down.

I see KJ posting up above: if you are seeing all this discussion, make whatever decision seems to make sense from ground 12, but everyone here THINKS YOU GUYS ARE PHENOMENAL for conceiving of, and working, this climb. Damn, we love seeing people get after it like this. Best of luck whatever and we all know you'll send, now or later.
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:15am PT
He who fights and runs away lives to fight another day.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:15am PT
Mike. has good advice. FYI- IIRC = If I Remember Correctly

They don't want to come down and hose their continuous ascent.

Aid to the roof asap, setup camp, and wait out the storm. Break out the wine and have a toast or twelve to Warren.

Best of luck, lots of people are rooting for you. Possibly the most impressive rock climbing achievement ever IMO. If it looks safe enough under the roof it could be a good spot to wait out the storm, but you can always come back another day. Big decision to make.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:20am PT
I guess one thing to add is Harding was up there at this same time and had to deal with a four day winter storm probably crappier than this one and then another one also. 27 days total on the route ground up. They were in the same area also for the bad weather. And they were in bat-tents!
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:23am PT
if you start down now, you will be able to make the Cochise Sushifest,
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:28am PT
do you guys have a Lego flashlight up there?

if not, you are ski ruuuuuued,
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:31am PT
Here's the current NOAA/NWS forecast:
Overnight: Mostly clear, with a low around 40. South southeast wind around 6 mph.

Thursday: Sunny, with a high near 55. South wind between 8 and 17 mph, with gusts as high as 23 mph.

Thursday Night: Mostly cloudy, with a low around 41. South wind around 10 mph.

Friday: A 30 percent chance of rain after noon. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 50. South wind between 9 and 13 mph.

Friday Night: Rain. Low around 38. South wind around 14 mph, with gusts as high as 18 mph. Chance of precipitation is 90%.

Saturday: Rain and snow. Snow level 4200 feet. High near 38. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of around an inch possible.

Saturday Night: Rain and snow. Low around 30. Breezy. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 6 to 10 inches possible.

Sunday: Rain and snow. Cloudy and breezy, with a high near 30.

Sunday Night: A chance of snow. Cloudy, with a low around 26.

Monday: A chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 31.

Monday Night: A slight chance of rain and snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 25.

Tuesday: A chance of rain and snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 33.

Tuesday Night: A slight chance of rain and snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 24.

Wednesday: Partly sunny, with a high near 36.

Looks like snow/rain Friday night through Sunday. Then mostly cloudy days until Wednesday.
Will the rock dry out on a cloudy day, or will it take sun to dry it out?
If the storm puts 8" of snow on top, will that drain into key areas of the climb like the Dihedrals for several more days (until the snow on top is gone)?

The Dawn Roof is good, like Mike said - pretty similar to the Great Roof on the Nose in size.

If you are going to jumar or aid up to Wino and Dawn Roof, then rap back down to the free highpoint, personally I don't see much difference between that and rapping to the ground and jumaring back up. Freeing it in a couple of blocks with a storm break on the ground might be wise.

One other option. If the goal is to "stay on the wall" to avoid criticism that you spent too many nights relaxing on the ground, you could probably fix straight down to the South Seas alcove and get some protection for your bivvy by the very steep overhanging rock there. Maybe get some help from the ground crew to grab the end of your fixed line and anchor it so you can pull in under the overhang. Bivvy just a pitch or less above the ground and cut the risk of getting hit with stuff from above. Plus if things get epic you can get down without a big rescue.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:33am PT
did you guys bring a Bag-O-Sleep?

one of these>
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:38am PT
this is Caldwell in three days, savage winter, oh savage winte, behold my brethren on the wall of doom,

i just got off the phone with Jim Bridwell, and he says "if you guys come down now, you ain'yt nuthin but a bunch of pussy faggots, hell i drank a fifth of jd waiting out that tora bora debacle,..."
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:41am PT
I know T*R!! Crazy!! I cannot fall asleep and I see You won't either. I keep Iphoning these posts lying in my bed up on Twin Peaks in SF. I was there in the Valley for the so-called Harding rescue you know. It is all coming back to me. By the way this the SECOND big storm of the season. Someone upthread said it was the first.
JOEY.F

Social climber
sebastopol
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:55am PT
KJ and Tommy,
Please be safe, good luck on your decision.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:57am PT
No-- the real Harding rescue was on half dome and again in winter. WH and Rowell were in a really bad bad way on the South face in big winter weather. 1969. Guido was on that operation and has photos! The Wall of the Early Morning Light aka Dawn "rescue" turned out not to be an actual rescue. NPS called us all in and began to mount an operation but it turned out that Warren and Dean were actually refusing help. They were close to where TC and KJ are now on the wall. Warren and Dean climbed on after the 4 days of weather. 1970. November.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 18, 2010 - 03:03am PT
The forecast here is for a cold front to arrive in Vancouver on Friday, with fairly cool (for mid-November) conditions, some flurries, and some sun by Saturday. Which probably means it will push the jet stream well south, with both precipitation and cool weather. The last week or more in Vancouver has been quite wet and windy, with a few half-decent afternoons between storms. We don't mind some nicer if cooler weather, as long as it doesn't snow much, but that often means everybody south gets hit.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 03:07am PT
So Mighty Anders you are taking responsibility for KJ and TC's predicament?
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 18, 2010 - 03:07am PT
If the goal is to "stay on the wall" to avoid criticism that you spent too many nights relaxing on the ground

If I had the incredible drive and talent to do something like this I'd be doing it for my own goal of freeing all the pitches in one ascent. I suspect they feel the same way. It's not about criticism or what anybody else thinks. It's a personal goal they don't want to give up on.

The storms are just destiny's way of adding the same challenge that Warren and Dean had on the FA of The Wall of Early Morning Light.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 18, 2010 - 03:11am PT
The jetstream forecast doesn't look particularly great:

http://squall.sfsu.edu/gif/jetstream_pac_loop.gif

Darling you got to let me know
Should I stay or should I go
If you say that you are mine
I'll be here 'til the end of time
So you got to let me know
Should I stay or should I go

It's always tease, tease, tease
You're happy when I'm on my knees
One day is fine, the next is black
So if you want me off your back
Well come on and let me know
Should I Stay or should I go

Should I stay or should I go now
Should I stay or should I go now
If I go there will be trouble
An' if I stay it will be double
So come on and let me know
...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 03:28am PT
Criticism includes "self criticism". :-)

A little storm could be a fun break. Or it could turn bad if the ledge gets wrecked and you start to turn into a popsicle.
It happens, even to people who know what they are doing:
http://www.fishproducts.com/topos/nativeTR/nativeTR.html

I've never been on El Cap in a big storm, and I don't know how to estimate the probability of something "bad" happening from this storm.
jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
Nov 18, 2010 - 03:47am PT
Take it to rockclimbing.com, noobs! :)




(Edit: Seriously, though... come down, rest, and send that beast from the bottom next week.)
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Nov 18, 2010 - 08:02am PT
man up..
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Nov 18, 2010 - 08:10am PT
It's time to get geraldo and fox news up on that ledge and see what's going on inside their heads...leave a rope on the hinterstroiser traverse for gods sake...
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Nov 18, 2010 - 08:56am PT
Best wishes to Tommy and Kevin. Whatever you guys decide, everyone is with you. You guys have been rocking it. Freakin Badass!
Almost 2 feet of snow at 5000 feet on Mt Hood here in Oregon in the last 24 hours, and still coming down with the forecast for it to snow for the next week. Winter has come to the Pacific NW, its been raining cats and dogs, and it may change to snow tonight down at the lower elevations where I live in the Columbia River gorge.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 18, 2010 - 09:12am PT
If they could get up right under the roof, they'd probably be fine. But why stick it out if you've got fixed ropes? Just leave, and come back later. Any fool can be uncomfortable.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Nov 18, 2010 - 09:35am PT
I spent a week hanging under the Molar in a major storm. It included lots of icefall. We were somewhat protected and it was still scary as hell, and we took some hits. Someone mentioned the "frisbee" effect. That was our experience, the big plates would swim around in the air and it wasn't very safe anywhere.
Good luck fellas.

Hammer, meet thumb.....
FrankZappa

Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
Nov 18, 2010 - 09:40am PT
What about that ledge at the top of the Bismark? I seem to remember it as being a lot more sheltered. It is just around the corner from where the pitch above wino zigs left. I'm not sure how easy it is to get there (we just lowered around the corner because we were going the other direction while climbing Space.)

But agree with Pete to some extent; if you have fixed lines at least you can zip out if the going gets too tough.

Really, really cool free route though. I hope you guys get it done!
onyourleft

climber
Smog Angeles
Nov 18, 2010 - 09:44am PT
This does not appear to be an insignificant storm.
Every weather center in the region is predicting a memorable event.

Here's an animation from the NWS Hanford office with specific references to Yosemite:

http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/hnx/local_text/embrief.wmv
murcy

climber
sanfrancisco
Nov 18, 2010 - 10:02am PT
Like Clint said, I don't really see a big difference in ethics or accomplishment between a free ascent with an unplanned break hunkering down in a ledge for days and one where, while you have hauled enough crap to do that, you instead take an unplanned break to sit out a storm safely off the wall with less risk to yourselves and to YOSAR. That's very different from a siege.

Either way, you two are pushing the envelope amazingly.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Nov 18, 2010 - 11:01am PT
Bail now, while the bailing is good
whether climbing or bailing, they're going to have to wait for sun and/or warmth, so whatever ice is there, will be coming down
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 18, 2010 - 11:44am PT
I get that they've put a lot of work into this attempt, but El Cap doesn't really care what a baddass you are.
WBraun

climber
Nov 18, 2010 - 11:46am PT
... with less risk to yourselves and to YOSAR

There's nobody left here right now only a few rangers.

We'd be fuked .....
gap index

Big Wall climber
Sumner, Wa
Nov 18, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
I got stuck in a late winter storm on pitch 6 in 1994. The storm was pretty exciting throwing our ledges all over the place. We laughed, drank wine and screamed into the storm all night. When the weather looked better we started climbing again. Mid morning the sun came out and started melting the ice that had accumulated on the upper 1/3 of the wall. It was the scariest thing I have experienced climbing. 1 to 3 foot plates of ice started falling on us and exploding, hundreds of them. We got down with only minor bruises.
I don't know if wino tower is high enough to be out of the potential ice fall zone.
Nedflang

Big Wall climber
Yosemite
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
Tell those bone heads to bail now, nothing to gain sitting this storm out
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:44pm PT
A "Winter Storm Warning" is being forecast up here in Hood River, Oregon. It seems like this might be a big storm. Bailing seems to be the safe this to do.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
mercury dropping,

Get In The Chopper!
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 18, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
Doing this route to-date has involved a series of comings and goings to work the line. And this current attempt involves significant caching for planned breaks / rests versus a continuous NIAD-style push. Given that, and the mindboggling difficulty of the endeavor, I'd say sitting out the storm on the ground and re-ascending shouldn't detract from the ascent - if it's felt it does, then perhaps another time.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Nov 18, 2010 - 03:46pm PT
Time to come down. Start over later. This will only add to the epic story of this climb when it finally goes.
onyourleft

climber
Smog Angeles
Nov 18, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
NWS is predicting over 5 inches of precipitation in the Sierra over the next five days:
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 18, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
Tommy and Kevin are world class mountaineers and can make their own decisions and will be respected by most of us whatever they decide.

But come on taco stand. In the words of WBraun (repeated here for humor only):

There's something seriously wrong with this forum.

WTF happened to this place?

pussies .....

What BullSh#t are all these analysts here?

I would imeadiately have thrown my monitor at him and kicked him in the fuking head.

What a bunch of fuking pussies in that office.

Is that your office?

How high up is that office? I would have thrown him out the window to the street below.

Fuk this sh'it ......

Just wait till you pull on the real stuff. It's divine.

And there's lots and lots of women climbers out there in the world.

They will take over the world, because the men are becoming pussies.

This is in no way meant to convince them to do something stupid (like I said they are experienced and smart enough to make their own decision), it just seems everyone here is so quick to throw in the towel. Don't cutting edge alpine climbers face risks like this daily? Didn't Tommy stare down the barrel of an AK47?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
Yes Fet. Others have been through this in the same area this same time of year. And KJ and TC knew there would be at least one of these fronts coming this time of year during their 10-day plan up there. And the storm is not a particularly tough one; it just isn't.

As Charlie Porter used to say, "If you wait around for the weather to get good, you won't do shit"
Beatrix Kiddo

Mountain climber
ColoRADo
Nov 18, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
Now this is a great ST thread!!! Can't wait to see what they decide.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 18, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
Good post by Becca this AM regarding the decision:

http://tommyandbecca.blogspot.com/

Twitter update 2 minutes ago:

http://twitter.com/kjorgeson

This is the raddest climb since, well, Tommy's last big wall free climbs.
Gene

Social climber
Nov 18, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
Winter storm warning for Yosemite

Statement as of 11:03 am PST on November 18, 2010

... Winter Storm Watch remains in effect from Friday evening
through Sunday afternoon above 6000 feet...

A Winter Storm Watch above 6000 feet remains in effect from
Friday evening through Sunday afternoon for the higher elevations
of the southern Sierra Nevada.

* Snow accumulations: one to three feet are possible above 6000
feet.

* Elevation: above 6000 feet.

* Timing: snow beginning over higher elevations Saturday
morning.Periods of heavy snow will occur most of the weekend
before decreasing late Sunday.

* Locations include: Lodgepole... Shaver Lake

* winds: south winds 25 to 30 mph with gusts to 65 mph over
higher peaks and the crest on Friday evening and Saturday
increasing to 30 to 40 mph with gusts to 75 mph on Sunday.

* Impacts: heavy snow may cause travel delays or Road closures.
Blowing and drifting snow with local whiteout conditions are
possible above 7000 feet.

Precautionary/preparedness actions...

A Winter Storm Watch means there is a potential for significant
snow and strong winds. Continue to monitor the latest forecasts.

http://weather.modbee.com/US/CA/Yosemite_National_Park.html#ixzz15fsRKaDR

If they ride it out, how long do any of you think it will take for the rock to be dry enough to attempt?

Daytime temps are forecast to be above freezing, with temps below freezing at night. So any daytime runoff/melt will freeze at night.

Wishing the best to KJ and TC.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 05:28pm PT
I think somebody on this forum should go up and talk to those two.
It would probably be a good time to discuss their route ethics too. :)
Rob_James

Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt. Cook Village, New Zealand
Nov 18, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
Have they fixed lines running to the valley floor/Merced?

If they've the lines in place, waiting things out a little sounds like such a blast of fun and fresh air.

However, if those fixed lines are in place, they'll have to come back and do the whole thing again anyway.

Using an umbilical line probably means that you haven't actually "slayed the radness". Shouldn't "slaying the radness" really be the essence of what this class adventure is all about?
WBraun

climber
Nov 18, 2010 - 06:46pm PT
It looks like they're on hold right now.

They haven't moved their camp up. Their lead high point is up on the Molar.

It looks like they have ropes fixed to the ground.

It looks like a porta-ledge at Wino Towers with fixed lines going to the top from there.

It looks like they've had most of the wall prepared ahead of their attempt by fixing lines to Wino Towers from the top and staying tethered to the ground from their present position.
nature

climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
Nov 18, 2010 - 06:54pm PT
A gripping decision.


It's like Reality TV except better.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 18, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
I had no idea they had all this fixed rope. That changes everything and improves the prospects and safety issues enormously.

I was having this fantasy they were "just up there".
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Nov 18, 2010 - 08:01pm PT
YER GONNA DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 18, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
looks like the jet stream is turning north,

supposed to be 80 degrees in the valley,

Go For It!

Just Do It!

You snooze, you lose,

may descretion be the worst part of valor,

that rock weighs over 9,000 tons, much more than any locomotive,

that means the rock will not move, so the ice will stay put,

did you bring a wing suit?

just taser the lead guy, crank up the volts and he will send 5.17.

ask for ranger Boss Hogg.

he's the same guy who nuked ammon, did you see that thread?

somebody bump the ammon thread,
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 18, 2010 - 08:38pm PT
Snow flurries over higher areas in Vancouver this afternoon. It should gradually cool over the next two days, until it's somewhat below freezing, and we'll likely get some 'real' snow. Sunday - Tuesday is forecast to be cold and clear, until the next front arrives.

It is somewhat early for such a strong outbreak of Arctic air here.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 18, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
Anders, did you fix that lawn chair yet?

the webbing,.dangerous,

one day, the bottom will drop out,
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 18, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
Wow, those guys are so lucky to have us to tell them what to do, eh?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 18, 2010 - 09:22pm PT
(Channelling Werner)
All questions can be answered on the Taco. Even questions that haven't been asked.
Gene

Social climber
Nov 18, 2010 - 09:25pm PT
Wow, those guys are so lucky to have us to tell them what to do, eh?


I think it is more concern than dictate, Pete. We all want this to end well whatever the outcome.

g
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Nov 18, 2010 - 09:43pm PT
If they can take on the extra calories, bottoms up!

(Russ Walling photo)

Out of curiosity, are Harding's Gallo Brothers bottles still up there?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Nov 18, 2010 - 09:51pm PT
I think that would have been brandy. Christian Brothers of course.

Ken
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
Thanks for everyone's beta (and speculation).
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 18, 2010 - 11:40pm PT
do you want to buy some crack?
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 19, 2010 - 01:05am PT
hey there say... thanks for bringing this to attention...

i don't know kevin or tommy, but sure hope they pick the best thing to do,
if it is not too late or too wrong, for whichever they do...
i just (myself) don't think snow/ice storms are
needed to be reckoned with... but that is me...

will be praying they will get back safe through this storm...

god bless, to you guys up there...
you are surely being thought of by us...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 01:57am PT
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/Dawn_Tommy_Kevin.gif

Updated table version of the pitches done so far and the next ones.
Great climbers; could use a little more luck with the weather this year!
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 19, 2010 - 02:18am PT
you mean this was all a stunt for BD?


i want my money back.

any video or nuthin?

Chief Kauk would have soloed that thing at night in the rain,

these punks make me wanna hurl.

i'm gonna wait at the base with my tazer.

youlube footage of last years attempt,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3YG86wfnIM
Cory Turner

Boulder climber
Stockton, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 03:05am PT
I don't know man...snow levels down to 2,000 ft, probably 1ft or more by sunday morning...rain 1 day, snow 2 days and then daytime highs in the high 30s...don't sound like a good time to finish this up. I'll be there sunday though hoping for a break in the storm for myself.
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Nov 19, 2010 - 03:16am PT

It looks like they've had most of the wall prepared ahead of their attempt by fixing lines to Wino Towers from the top and staying tethered to the ground from their present position.

as badass as the free route is does this constitute adventure in any shape or form?

not dissin just curious...i have my own ideas and its all about technical free a different beast for sure..
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 03:48am PT
> does this constitute adventure in any shape or form?

Yes.

Was the Nose FA, with fixed lines from bottom to top, an adventure? Yes.
Having some fixed lines is only one dimension of their climb.

When you are pushing your limits, it's an adventure, even if you are on a toprope.
Here they are committing resources (including prep work over 3 years) into something where the chances of getting it freed are not very certain.

There are all kinds of adventures out there. Many of them are personal and might be hard for others to understand.
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Nov 19, 2010 - 03:54am PT
I once stood right at the base of the Nose early in the morning after a big storm. I was looking up as the sun hit the upper part of the rock, which was glistening silver from great sheets of ice.

The ice started breaking loose in huge sheets that sailed down like falling autumn leaves fluttering back and forth in all directions and crashing down into the boulder fields and forest. I realized why there are no trees along the base of the wall.

I was standing in one of the only safe places; as the ice coming down the Nose was either deflected to one side or shattered into a rain of small ice crystals lit by the sun. Everywhere else was being bombarded by ice shrapnel.

There is no glory in getting pulverized by falling ice.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Nov 19, 2010 - 04:12am PT
does this constitute adventure in any shape or form?
This effort seems a big step into the unknown in terms of the sustained level of concentration it requires. It seems to me that you are asking for something like a spacewalk without a tether.

They have already shown an amazing ability to keep their heads together when facing a long string of really hard, really technical pitches to do. If the effort is interrupted by the weather, then that's a shame, but I for one am really amazed and inspired by this project.
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Nov 19, 2010 - 09:11am PT
Here is the Mammoth zone forecast. Tahoe looked pretty similar. Freaking evil winds up high...


CAZ073-200430- MONO- INCLUDING THE CITIES OF...BRIDGEPORT...COLEVILLE...LEE VINING... MAMMOTH LAKES 335 AM PST FRI NOV 19 2010

..WIND ADVISORY IN EFFECT UNTIL 4 PM PST THIS AFTERNOON ...WINTER STORM WARNING IN EFFECT FROM 4 PM THIS AFTERNOON TO 4 PM PST SUNDAY...

TODAY BREEZY. MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A SLIGHT CHANCE OF SNOW IN THE AFTERNOON NEAR THE SIERRA CREST. HIGHS 44 TO 49. SOUTHWEST WINDS 20 TO 30 MPH WITH GUSTS UP TO 55 MPH. RIDGE GUSTS UP TO 105 MPH.

TONIGHT BRISK. SNOW AND RAIN. AREAS OF BLOWING SNOW AFTER MIDNIGHT. SNOW LEVEL 6000 FEET LOWERING TO THE VALLEY FLOOR. SNOW ACCUMULATION OF 3 TO 5 INCHES WITH 5 TO 10 INCHES ABOVE 7000 FEET. LOWS 18 TO 28. SOUTHWEST WINDS 20 TO 30 MPH DECREASING TO 15 TO 20 MPH AFTER MIDNIGHT. GUSTS UP TO 55 MPH. RIDGE GUSTS UP TO 90 MPH.

SATURDAY BRISK. SNOW. SNOW ACCUMULATION 3 TO 6 INCHES WITH 8 TO 14 INCHES WEST OF 395 ABOVE 7000 FEET. HIGHS 26 TO 31. SOUTHWEST WINDS 15 TO 20 MPH WITH GUSTS TO 35 MPH. RIDGE GUSTS UP TO 90 MPH.

SATURDAY NIGHT SNOW. AREAS OF BLOWING SNOW AFTER MIDNIGHT. LOWS 14 TO 19. SOUTHWEST WINDS 10 TO 20 MPH WITH GUSTS UP TO 35 MPH. RIDGE GUSTS UP TO 80 MPH.

SUNDAY...BRISK SNOW. HIGHS 23 TO 28. SOUTHWEST WINDS 15 TO 25 MPH WITH GUSTS UP TO 40 MPH. RIDGE GUSTS UP TO 80 MPH.

SUNDAY NIGHT SNOW. LOWS 8 TO 13.

MONDAY MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A CHANCE OF SNOW SHOWERS. HIGHS 25 TO 30.

MONDAY NIGHT AND TUESDAY MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A SLIGHT CHANCE OF SNOW SHOWERS. LOWS 8 TO 13. HIGHS 24 TO 29.

TUESDAY NIGHT PARTLY CLOUDY. LOWS 3 TO 8.

WEDNESDAY AND WEDNESDAY NIGHT CLEAR. HIGHS 26 TO 31. LOWS 5 TO 10.

THANKSGIVING DAY SUNNY. HIGHS 36 TO 41.
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Nov 19, 2010 - 09:40am PT
OK. Hanford has Yosemite in their forecast area. Mammoth one came from the Reno office. So this one is for Yosemite.

CAZ096-200000- SIERRA NEVADA FROM YOSEMITE TO KINGS CANYON- 335 AM PST FRI NOV 19 2010

...WINTER STORM WARNING IN EFFECT FROM 10 PM THIS EVENING TO 10 PM PST SUNDAY...

TODAY MOSTLY CLOUDY. A 20 PERCENT CHANCE OF SHOWERS IN THE AFTERNOON. NEAR THE CREST...A 20 PERCENT CHANCE OF SNOW SHOWERS IN THE AFTERNOON. WINDY. SNOW LEVEL 7500 FEET. HIGHS 44 TO 54 AT 5000 FEET...36 TO 46 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 35 MPH. GUSTS UP TO 60 MPH IN THE MORNING INCREASING TO 80 MPH IN THE AFTERNOON.

TONIGHT...SNOW SHOWERS SNOW SHOWERS NEAR THE CREST. WINDY. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 13 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 6000 FEET. LOWS 29 TO 37 AT 5000 FEET...17 TO 27 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 35 MPH WITH GUSTS TO AROUND 70 MPH.

SATURDAY...SNOW AND RAIN...SNOW NEAR THE CREST. BREEZY COLDER. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 16 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 4500 FEET. HIGHS 29 TO 37 AT 5000 FEET...19 TO 29 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS AROUND 25 MPH WITH GUSTS TO AROUND 55 MPH IN THE MORNING.

SATURDAY NIGHT...SNOW SHOWERS. WINDY COLDER. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 21 INCHES. LOWS 22 TO 32 AT 5000 FEET...10 TO 20 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 35 MPH WITH GUSTS TO AROUND 80 MPH.

SUNDAY...SNOW WINDY. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 28 INCHES. HIGHS 23 TO 31 AT 5000 FEET...13 TO 23 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 30 MPH WITH GUSTS TO AROUND 55 MPH.

SUNDAY NIGHT AND MONDAY MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A 50 PERCENT CHANCE OF SNOW SHOWERS. WINDY. LOWS 19 TO 29 AT 5000 FEET...8 TO 18 AT 8000 FEET. HIGHS 29 TO 37 AT 5000 FEET...22 TO 32 AT 8000 FEET.

MONDAY NIGHT AND TUESDAY MOSTLY CLOUDY. SLIGHT CHANCE OF SNOW SHOWERS. LOWS 18 TO 28 AT 5000 FEET...7 TO 17 AT 8000 FEET. HIGHS 33 TO 41 AT 5000 FEET...24 TO 34 AT 8000 FEET.

TUESDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY. LOWS 21 TO 31 AT 5000 FEET 11 TO 21 AT 8000 FEET.

WEDNESDAY...MOSTLY SUNNY. HIGHS 36 TO 44 AT 5000 FEET 29 TO 39 AT 8000 FEET.

WEDNESDAY NIGHT AND THANKSGIVING DAY MOSTLY CLEAR. LOWS 26 TO 36 AT 5000 FEET...18 TO 28 AT 8000 FEET. HIGHS 42 TO 52 AT 5000 FEET...37 TO 47 AT 8000 FEET.
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Nov 19, 2010 - 09:44am PT
This is the site that all of the weather weenies use:

http://www.stormeyes.org/pietrycha/ca.html

I need to get them the phone number for the forecast office in Hanford. They could just call them and probably get someone to actually talk to them. We did it all of the time.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
Nov 19, 2010 - 10:41am PT
So four days of storms to sit out, once you frig up to the back of the Dawn Roof and place a bivy anchor, followed by a couple days of berg-frisbee and thawing and then how much sitting around and waiting for the seeps to quit running?

That's a rough way to spend a week. And what exactly is the likelihood of dry conditions after the storm passes?
JMacomber

Sport climber
Minneapolis, MN
Nov 19, 2010 - 10:51am PT
Look guys, if it's leaving you a little weak in the guts, listen to your viscera. If you feel bad about it come down, it will be there next year, and the year after, and the year after that. The rocks not going anywhere.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:00am PT
When you are pushing your limits, it's an adventure, even if you are on a toprope

Exactly. A noob on tr in a gym can be as gripped as a pro on a solo grade VII fa. To each his own.
Adamame

Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:03am PT
I would have thought Staying down low around pitches 10-12 looked safer then Wino Tower. I've watched the falling ice before and have noticed it can happen for many days/weeks after a storm depending on how much snow is deposited on top. I think the project is doomed for the year, this storm could make it the wettest November on record. Wino looks like a death trap to me.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:08am PT
I know what it feels like sitting out a protracted storm in the mountains. The mind and body atrophy to a point and I was never looking at the prospect of having to send 5.14.
WBraun

climber
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:18am PT
They have ropes fixed to the ground.

Why everyone so worried?
BooDawg

Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:50am PT
They have ropes fixed to the ground.

Why everyone so worried?


Since I'm heading toward Yosemite today, having lurked this thread since its inception, and having done the Nose under winter, tho not storm, conditions, I am amazed at how many people are concerned for these guys. I don't think it's so much worry as concern about the outcome and most people's desires that this thread doesn't become one of condolences. Most of us understand the choices we've all made between the desire for adventure and our survival instincts. And most of us know the consequences, on both sides, of having to make those choices and the possible outcomes of each choice.

Yesterday, when I'd check into this thread I couldn't help but put myself in the same place that Tom describes upthread with the huge hunks of ice roaring down the Captain like a freight train. Having stood there myself, I felt like it was a war zone. Besides crackin' skulls, even if they have hardhats, the crashing ice can cut ropes as well...
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:53am PT
Tommy Caldwell is the man, he will get it done one way or another.
cleo

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:54am PT
Well, if Werner's not worried...
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Nov 19, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
Rain has started 12 hours early in Santa Cruz, but it looks on the satellite maps like we have things forming locally. Interestingly, looking at the GOES weather loop, there are missiles going off and course correcting all over the place off the coast. Too bad with all these clouds we can't see them and do some calculations.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 19, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
A lot of monday morning quarterbacking going on. If those two can't make the right decision, who can?
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 19, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
Wow this is kinda heartbreaking. So much work to prep for the all-free continuous ground-up ascent. But having to try again next year isn't the worst thing that could happen. I don't think they can hang out in any exposed location with the barrage that is coming.

They are still far away from the dawn roof. Too bad you can't fit a ledge behind Texas flake.

What about hanging out in the alcove? It's not too far off route, but it's really close to the ground. They wouldn't have to come off El Cap and it would be easy for people to bring them extra provisions, but is that defeating the spirit of a continous ascent?
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 19, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
Rapping off El Cap in 80mph wind gusts sounds like a blast!




Ps, I thought Tommy was married to Beth...who's this Becca girl?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
Apparently they are going to hold out.

http://climbingnarc.com/2010/11/caldwell-jorgesons-dawn-wall-push-nears-end-of-week-1/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 19, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
Tommy and Beth got divorced.

Check out Becca's great blog and photos of the ascent and the great photos on Tommy's facebook page. His profile pic with her is awesome.
Nor Cal

Trad climber
San Mateo
Nov 19, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
We saw them on the first few pitches last saturday and they were climbing w/o shirts. I bet they are bundles up tight right now.
We are expecting snow on the SF Bay Area hills at 3000' so I bet the valley floor will get snow.
Time to bail.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Nov 19, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
I wonder how much money they're able to generate, directly or indirectly, by having practically every minute of their ascent basically covered live via the interwebs.

They're very visible sponsored athletes and I'm sure their sponsors are loving all this time they're spending in peoples minds. Surely, the boys get compensated for that.

Tommy doesn't seem like much of a self promoting dude nor blogger/twitterer/b.s. sprayer - he's smart in that he's gotten Kevin and his wife to do it for him.
HighTraverse

Social climber
Bay Area
Nov 19, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
Jim,
Excellent comment. However do they have the latest information?
The forecasts for this storm have been getting worse over the timespan of this thread.
Here's the 8:53 AM today NOAA forecast specifically for Yosemite Valley.
Gonna be a lot of precipitation, getting colder, snow level falling to below Wino Tower. As much as 2 feet of snow in the Valley. Moderate winds Sat night and Sunday, getting colder after it clears on Monday, really cold Monday & Tuesday nights.

=
Today: A slight chance of rain showers after 1pm. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 46. South southwest wind between 16 and 20 mph, with gusts as high as 25 mph. Chance of precipitation is 10%.

Tonight: Rain and snow showers. Snow level 5400 feet. Low around 29. South southwest wind between 16 and 18 mph, with gusts as high as 24 mph. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New snow accumulation of 1 to 2 inches possible.

Saturday: Rain and snow. High near 32. Southwest wind between 11 and 14 mph, with gusts as high as 18 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 2 to 4 inches possible.

Saturday Night: Snow showers. Low around 22. Breezy, with a south southwest wind between 16 and 24 mph, with gusts as high as 34 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 7 to 11 inches possible.

Sunday: Snow. High near 26. Breezy, with a south southwest wind 25 to 28 mph decreasing to between 17 and 20 mph. Winds could gust as high as 39 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 8 to 12 inches possible.

Sunday Night: A 50 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 20. New snow accumulation of 1 to 3 inches possible.

Monday: A 40 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 32. Little or no snow accumulation expected.

Monday Night: A slight chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 19.

Tuesday: A slight chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 35.

Tuesday Night: Mostly cloudy, with a low around 22.

Wednesday: Mostly sunny, with a high near 40.

Wednesday Night: Mostly clear, with a low around 26.

Thanksgiving Day: Sunny, with a high near 45.
=

Can anyone say "Sentinel Falls" and "Widow's Tears" for Thanksgiving?

In my humble experience climbing to El Cap Tree after a big snowstorm, the desktop sized summit ice over there falls well behind you into the trees and the climbing was scary but perfectly safe. Can't speak for the Dawn Wall.
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Nov 19, 2010 - 01:37pm PT
Light rain started about 1/2 hour ago here at the beach. Wet enough now to put the tools away. Not supposed to start till this evening.
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Nov 19, 2010 - 01:38pm PT
I for one hope the boys stick it out (safely of course) through the storm and then complete their FA.

I love the coverage they are providing for the wall and I hope they profit from it handsomely. They deserve it.

I would like to see more posts from the wall, maybe with pictures of the storm.

karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
I too think it will be awesome if they stick it out and then send, just like Warren did. Way better story that way. Miserable, but proud. Good luck guys!
jack herer

climber
Veneta, Oregon
Nov 19, 2010 - 01:55pm PT
Umm thats what you get for trying to spend two weeks on a free route on El Cap in mid Novermber.. shut down!

Strong effort but what the hell where these guys expecting. If they cant climb in the sun in mid November and not in the spring, when the hell can they climb?
nature

climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
Nov 19, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
time to pop some more popcorn and go on a beer run.

this is going to be a long weekend.


i think I'll turn up the heater too. And booties. Down Booties.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Nov 19, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
Still climbing.

From KJ's twitter couple minutes ago:

"Tommy sent pitch 12 the other night. I'm headed up now for round 2 on pitch 12 and Tommy is going for pitch 13."
Slakkey

Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
Nov 19, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
^^^^

Yep sent about an hour ago
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 19, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
From Facebook, Big UP Productions:

http://www.facebook.com/peter.zabrok#!/pages/Big-UP-Productions/59327301280

Big UP Productions "Decided not to go to Wino Tower, but stay here on our camp at pitch 8 to see how bad the storm gets."

14 hours ago via iPhone

So that would have been posted late last night.

Holy frig. Could this be an epic in the making? I would be amazed if they could stick out such a big storm for so long. Are they knott in a very exposed position?

http://climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/dw_topo.jpg

Have a look at the topo in the photo link above. Pitch 8 is not the place I'd want to be in a storm so severe - there is very little shelter, and it's hugely exposed to icefall.

I predict they will rap off on their fixed lines. Stay safe, lads.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 19, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
Pete, according to becca's blog they have been checking this thread on their iPhones and since the data network in the valley sucks so bad any pics will really slow down loading it so it would probably be good to pull that photo. It also screws up the formatting on an iPhone.
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Nov 19, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
Good luck gentlemen! Sending good warm vibes your way.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
where are these guys, exactly? my old guide shows wino tower at the end of pitch 18 (new dawn route--doesn't show details of original WEML). they're only on pitch 13?
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Nov 19, 2010 - 04:43pm PT
Well, in the bailing department, Mike Davis and I made it from the base of the Groove to the Ground over on the Shield in about five hours with two pigs.

Then the sun came out for two months. Always felt like a pussy for that.

If they have ropes to the ground, they are probably going to try to suffer through the weekend and then use the daytime temps to climb starting monday or so. To have to give up this close is evidently worth some righteous suffering. Stay dry guys. Getting wet will be very bad news.

edit: my guess is that the fixed ropes are for the film crew. I doubt the climbers need them.
cleo

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
so does the film crew get to go down?
Climbing Narcissist

Boulder climber
Wisconsin
Nov 19, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
Corey Rich just got there this morning to help film things so they don't sound in a hurry to get down
cms

climber
toyota, tacoma
Nov 19, 2010 - 07:21pm PT
full on white out conditions on el cap right now

less than a minute ago on twitter.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
It is just fog in that spot; the other three webcams show good visibility for miles. Again, this storm is looking like a really moderate one. Satellite/radar on accuweather shows it being "light".
dougs510

Social climber
down south
Nov 19, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
Yep, I've been lurking and watching the webcams..... looks like it could be a fun night... someone should send up some cheap wine. Seriously, wine would be great, and they can bail if need be??? I think it sounds like a fine adventure.
Dirk

Trad climber
QUEENS NEW YORK
Nov 19, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
Good luck Kevin! Good luck Tommy! "THE FORECAST CALLS FOR PAIN!!!"

We are rooting for your here in NYC. No storm experience on THAT route, so I'm no help. Love the updates. Thanks for signing my get-well card down south way back when, and boomerang that karma right back at ya!
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
Nov 19, 2010 - 08:13pm PT

Dear Kevin and Tommy, We old bastards know far more about patience, anxiety and misery than we do about climbing.

Draw on our strength.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 19, 2010 - 08:56pm PT
only 19kb, so lighten up,
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
Certainly a different style of climbing nowadays. Instant communication through cell phones and laptops/iphones, plus ropes fixed to the ground. Adds a more "safe" dimension. Just hope this scenario does not involve a rescue were other lives are involved.
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
what a bunch of party-poopers!
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:20pm PT
imagine if they do wait it out and are able to finish?

do the last pitch at night with giant ice frisbees bouncing off the 5.14, who can top that?

if you think of the frigid trenches of WW1, this ain't so bad, no club foot to worry about,
murcy

climber
sanfrancisco
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
I am behind these guys all the way. In every respect, and to the maximum degree. Whether it be talent, courage, determination, vision, count me way, way behind them. All good wishes.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
squatch,
Not party poopers but common sense questions that should go through ones mind in this situation. Hence the actual thread!
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
Murcy,
If Mallory was your brother, would you be behind him?
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
say weld it,
Not everybody has your rappelling style!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
Maybe they wanted to do it as a mixed climb, so that the final grade will be VI, 5.14, M11, and it will be virtually unrepeatable. I wonder if they'll need to do figure 4s, and whether they're secretly in touch with Jello for technique tips?
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
Saturday Night
Snow...windy. Snow accumulation up to 28 inches. Lows 23 to 33 at 5000 feet...11 to 21 at 8000 feet. South winds 25 to 30 mph with gusts to around 60 mph.

Sunday
Snow...windy. Snow accumulation up to 13 inches. Total snow accumulation up to 81 inches. Highs 27 to 35 at 5000 feet... 17 to 27 at 8000 feet. Southwest winds 25 to 30 mph with gusts to around 60 mph.

Sunday Night
Mostly cloudy with a 50 percent chance of snow. Windy...colder. Lows 18 to 28 at 5000 feet...4 to 14 at 8000 feet. Southwest winds 25 to 35 mph. Gusts up to 75 mph in the evening decreasing to 45 mph after midnight.

Sounds like a good adventure.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:47pm PT
Jeff Lowe is in the cave behind the Molar Traverse, Mighty; Tommy found it during all this preparation. Jello is totally into what they are doing up there.

In all seriousness, these guys will be fine.
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Nov 19, 2010 - 11:50pm PT
If they have a string of ropes for the film crew, maybe I ought to buy a plane ticket and jug up there with hot drinks. They would refuse, though. No outside help.

Really. Stay dry. Stay dry at all costs. Get wet and things go downhill incredibly fast.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:14am PT
lower down the hiltie and build an ice cave, .err......granite cave.

who is gonna bust ya up there, in those hiddie conditions?

you guys bring any weed?

i won't climb unlees i'm baked out on the Chronic, til i'm dead.

you guys have a propane heater?

tv?

hot tub?

boil the water in the cave and make it into a hot tub.

no, let it ice over and call it the Cool tub,

you could even patent the Cool tub, for Cool people, get it?

the Patented Cool Tub, no more need to pimp and be pimped by BD, jus sayin,
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:24am PT
ok, you guys need to brace up with some Motorhead,>

I make love to mountain lions,
Sleep on red-hot branding irons,
When I walk the roadway shakes,
Bed's a mess of rattlesnakes,
Voodoo child, black cat bone,
Scratch your back,hear you moan,
I get up, you go down,
Tall building, single bound,
War and peace and love,
Say it if you dare,
Iron fist,velvet glove,
I'm so bad, baby I don't care,
Black-hearted to the bone,
Older than The Rolling Stones,
Been to heaven, been to hell,
Bought the farm, and I won't sell,
Give and take, rise and fall,
Rise up and take it all,
Secret love, I won't tell,
Knock you up and ring your bell,
Kiss the whip, eat the gun,
Tell me it ain't fair,
Midnight victim, hit and run,
I'm so bad, baby I don't care,
I make the blind to see,
Shoot 'em full of R and B,
I make the lame to walk,
Come round and pop your cork,
Wham, bam,thank you ma'am,
Thought I heard the back door slam,
Overkill, walk the line,
Kill the lights, It's lampshade time,
On the road,on the lam,
People running scared,
I'm everything they say
I'm so bad, baby I don't care.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:40am PT
ok, this is an original bivy song used by the Stonemasters,

Deep Purple-Pictures Of Home

Somebody's shouting
Up at a mountain
Only my own words return
Nobody's up there
It's a deception
When will I ever learn?

CHORUS:

I'm alone here
With emptiness eagles and snow
Unfriendliness chilling my body
And whispering pictures of home

Wondering blindly
How can they find me
Maybe they don't even know
My body is shaking
Anticipating
The call of the black footed crow...

I'm alone here
With emptiness eagles and snow
Unfriendliness chilling my body
And taunting pictures of home


Here in this prison
Of my own making
Year after day I have grown
Into a hero
But there's no worship
Where have they hidden my throne..

I'm alone here
With emptiness eagles and snow
Unfriendliness chilling my body
And squeezeing pictures of home
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Nov 20, 2010 - 01:19am PT
Checking in from Japan.

Countless people not posting are following these events.

All with best wishes for success on this amazing endeavor.

The Dawn Wall climbers' welfare is the focus of this weekend

Good wishes from many you will never meet.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Nov 20, 2010 - 01:26am PT
I'm having trouble tuning in the live video feed, please resend the IP number
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 20, 2010 - 01:44am PT
Brrrrr.... Stay warm guys! Hope those flys are quadruple insulated with R30. They're probably chillin out playing cards.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
Nov 20, 2010 - 03:13am PT
Shipoopoi's deal last winter was harder core. Don't kid.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Nov 20, 2010 - 05:09am PT
PH is right, I'm inspired by the audacity of these guys. Even dreaming of piecing together all those hard, low-percentage technical pitches during one extended wall session is a new concept for me. What a wild-assed step into the improbable!

I remember not being convinced when Todd and crew claimed a free climb of the Kurtyka-Loretan route on Trango Tower. Over a period of a month they eventually free climbed every pitch, but not in order from bottom to top.

This thing Tommy and Kevin are doing is the real deal - solid ground for slight style improvements in future ascents. I hope they don't get weathered off...

-Jello
SandyCaldwell

Social climber
Estes Park, Colorado
Nov 20, 2010 - 05:42am PT
I appreciate all the support from the climbing community! I am in Okinawa Japan and I am using this forum for updates on my brother. Thank you all for the info.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 20, 2010 - 05:53am PT
Jerry,

Those snow accumulation numbers look high, and the 8000 feet part suggests it is a forecast for the entire park, which includes a large area and high altitude.

Here is the NOAA/NWS forecast page for Yosemite Valley.
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=37.74031329210266&lon=-119.5697021484375&site=hnx&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en

The current forecast is similar to what I posted a few days ago.
Overnight: Rain. Steady temperature around 39. South southwest wind around 20 mph, with gusts as high as 25 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%.

Saturday: Rain and snow. Snow level 4300 feet. Temperature falling to around 32 by 5pm. Southwest wind between 9 and 11 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of less than one inch possible.

Saturday Night: Rain and snow. Low around 29. South wind between 14 and 21 mph, with gusts as high as 28 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 8 to 12 inches possible.

Sunday: Snow. High near 29. Breezy, with a southwest wind between 18 and 23 mph, with gusts as high as 32 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 3 to 7 inches possible.

Sunday Night: Snow likely. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 23. South southwest wind between 7 and 11 mph. Chance of precipitation is 60%. New snow accumulation of 2 to 4 inches possible.

Monday: A 50 percent chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 32. New snow accumulation of less than one inch possible.

Monday Night: A 20 percent chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 25.

Tuesday: A slight chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 34.

Tuesday Night: Mostly cloudy, with a low around 27.

Wednesday: Mostly sunny, with a high near 36.

Wednesday Night: Mostly clear, with a low around 32.

Thanksgiving Day: Sunny, with a high near 42.

Thursday Night: Mostly clear, with a low around 32.

Friday: Sunny, with a high near 46.

Still plenty of snow possible and windy on Saturday night and Sunday.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 20, 2010 - 07:02am PT
that is perfect, use this as a break, bacher says 3 days rest no matter what,

plus, working out in cold weather makes more white muscle fiber, perfect for this rad stuff.

and, the climbing is so tough, the cold air keeps the lactic acid forming due to heat rise,

and if you think this is bs, look at how many heavy lifters come from the equator, or ussr?

ok alexi andropov, you can dropoff the 6500 pounds to the floor,

the meds, somebody pass the meds
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 20, 2010 - 07:45am PT
hey there say, sandy... i've got many brothers... so i know the feel, no matter their endeavers... i will be praying for your brother... and for success...

god bess...
:)
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Nov 20, 2010 - 10:27am PT
DON'T LET ANYTHING GET WET

If that happens, someone will get into real trouble.

I know, easy to say, but if your bag gets wet, or your clothes get wet, that is bad news.

edit: Clint. You link is better than the one I have been using, which was the zone forecast for yose-kings canyon. Yours is just for yose and comes from the same forecast office, which is Hanford. They have Yosemite in their area.

I am posting this forecast because it covers elevetions higher up and is a little more detailed, although it covers a larger area.

CAZ096-210000- SIERRA NEVADA FROM YOSEMITE TO KINGS CANYON- 333 AM PST SAT NOV 20 2010

..WINTER STORM WARNING IN EFFECT UNTIL 10 PM PST SUNDAY

TODAY...SNOW AND RAIN SNOW NEAR THE CREST. WINDY. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 21 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 4500 FEET. HIGHS 30 TO 38 AT 5000 FEET...19 TO 29 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 35 MPH. GUSTS UP TO 55 MPH IN THE AFTERNOON. OVER HIGHER ELEVATIONS...GUSTS UP TO 60 MPH IN THE MORNING INCREASING TO 90 MPH IN THE AFTERNOON.

TONIGHT...SNOW SHOWERS IN THE EVENING THEN SNOW AFTER MIDNIGHT. WINDY...COLDER. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 28 INCHES. LOWS 21 TO 31 AT 5000 FEET...9 TO 19 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTH WINDS 25 TO 35 MPH. GUSTS UP TO 80 MPH IN THE EVENING DECREASING TO 60 MPH AFTER MIDNIGHT.

SUNDAY...SNOW WINDY. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 13 INCHES. TOTAL SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 71 INCHES. HIGHS 28 TO 36 AT 5000 FEET... 18 TO 26 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 30 MPH WITH GUSTS TO AROUND 45 MPH.

SUNDAY NIGHT MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A 50 PERCENT CHANCE OF SNOW. WINDY. LOWS 18 TO 28 AT 5000 FEET...6 TO 16 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 35 MPH WITH GUSTS TO AROUND 70 MPH.

MONDAY MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A 50 PERCENT CHANCE OF SNOW. WINDY. NOT AS COLD. HIGHS 33 TO 41 AT 5000 FEET...23 TO 33 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 35 MPH WITH GUSTS TO AROUND 65 MPH.

MONDAY NIGHT MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A SLIGHT CHANCE OF SNOW. WINDY. LOWS 20 TO 30 AT 5000 FEET...9 TO 19 AT 8000 FEET.

TUESDAY MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A SLIGHT CHANCE OF SNOW SHOWERS. WINDY. HIGHS 35 TO 43 AT 5000 FEET...27 TO 37 AT 8000 FEET.

TUESDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY. LOWS 21 TO 31 AT 5000 FEET 10 TO 20 AT 8000 FEET.

WEDNESDAY...MOSTLY SUNNY. HIGHS 37 TO 45 AT 5000 FEET 29 TO 39 AT 8000 FEET.

WEDNESDAY NIGHT AND THANKSGIVING DAY MOSTLY CLEAR. LOWS 21 TO 31 AT 5000 FEET...11 TO 21 AT 8000 FEET. HIGHS 42 TO 52 AT 5000 FEET...36 TO 46 AT 8000 FEET.

THURSDAY NIGHT AND FRIDAY MOSTLY CLEAR. LOWS 27 TO 37 AT 5000 FEET...15 TO 25 AT 8000 FEET. HIGHS 47 TO 55 AT 5000 FEET... 40 TO 50 AT 8000 FEET.
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Nov 20, 2010 - 10:37am PT
//I wonder how much money they're able to generate, directly or indirectly, by having practically every minute of their ascent basically covered live via the interwebs.

They're very visible sponsored athletes and I'm sure their sponsors are loving all this time they're spending in peoples minds. Surely, the boys get compensated for that.
//

I hope it's a Cap load of cash. it's appalling to see an old shortstop dude like Jeter (coming off his worst year ftw) trying to stike for 6 million a year. It would be curious to know the total amount of sponsorship dollars for climbing, seems like it might be less than a "one year extension" for a lot of "professional" athletes...

Thinking about the fellas on a picture perfect SE day...
lancebrock

climber
nashville, tn
Nov 20, 2010 - 11:32am PT
they came down last night. bummer. i am very glad they are safe though. sounds like they made amazing progress this season.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 20, 2010 - 11:59am PT
Smart move. Hypothermia isn't something to mess with.

You can't keep yourself warm sitting still in a portaledge day after day. Once your layers and bag wet out your screwed.

Their bodies woulda been working so hard staying warm, by Tuesday they would have been wasted anyway.
WBraun

climber
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
They'll just jug back up to their high points when the the storms blow over and the weather clears ....
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
Yeah, I agree, smart move.

Given the cutting edge difficulty of this route and it's length, weather is going to be a big problem to getting it done.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
imho, they need to do it in one push to really claim they climbed the route.
WBraun

climber
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
All the rule makers will now come out of the wood works to determine what is and what isn't valid.

:-)
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
LOL Werner.

They set their own rules.
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
Yep... these lads aren't stupid you know... good call... I think the rock will be there when they return and I don't think there is a secret crew waiting to jump on "their" route in the mean time!
WBraun

climber
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
Well ...

It just cleared up and blue sky with sun coming thru .....
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
current view from Turtleback Dome:


Again, whatever happens, these guys are being totally transparent and doing their best with the givens at hand. And their best is not merely and coincidentally the best anyone can do. But of course it will all be superceded in time no matter what. This is a tremendous event and really worthy of our attention! Finally we have the rejoining of traditional climbing with its bitchy daughter sport climbing in a new toughest most valid sort of way.
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
Sun is out here at the beach with sky clearing to the west.
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
I was secretly rooting for them to stick it out, but I don't really know how dangerous it is, so didn't say anything. Plus I don't know how long after it snows it becomes climbable again. I would love to know. I know that you can aid sooner, but I don't know about free climbing. Especially at that level.

Sun is out here in Wawona. We got about an inch of snow.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
There clearly is danger, John. I don't think so much from the temperatures by themselves but from the issues of rock and icefall. There just isn't any predicting its paths and if you look in the webcam just above here, you will see there is nearly a foot of snow on top and there are iced-up areas that will be falling from all over the upper regions of the western faces. And you can assume the same for the Dawn Wall area. That is why there aren't any trees right up to the base of the walls. And they are going to have to wait it out for several days no matter what, to resume or less phenomenally, regroup next year. It does help that this storm does not come on the heels of a bunch of other earlier ones back to back---- the ice/snow etc accumulations are less and all new (so to speak) on the summit edges this way. I remember these early storms not causing a lot of icefall.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
It's not a freakin' rule Werner. Why do you allways have to criticize everyones opinions? As if having an opinon on something is some moral sin.

I just think the cumulative effort from bottom to top in a single push defines a "climb." taking a 4-5 day rest break to shower and eat pizza sorta changes what is involved with climbing those upper pitches. Dontcha think?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 20, 2010 - 01:02pm PT
No question Lambone. Absolutely it changes quite a lot of stuff and TC and KJ would agree, I have to think. That is why they were up there trying for a valid continuous. This party however will not be hiding the fact of a huge break (if they do in fact return) taken in the middle due to weather. It is the best anyone can do right now of course and the weather is going to keep coming for awhile apparently. And I am sure they are hugely disappointed not to just have a weather-free ascent, just climbing according to their plan and imagination. But if it turns out they return right away and get it down this year, that is fantastic and it is a valid ascent. At this point it must seem artificial to hang out 600-800 feet up in the pitch #8 area rock for 3 more days when they have so much fixed rope available on their route....They have been chasing this project really hard. It is clear they really mean to climb the thing ground-to-top and aren't woosing out.

No one can deny your point Lambone and it is an important one. And weather IS a part of rockclimbing, not just alpinism and mountaineering. They are up there late in the year to avoid the oven-like temperatures of that wall the rest of the year but have the menace of these storms to also play chess with among the other issues. They also have a big problem with a conflict now in Tommy's schedule.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Nov 20, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
Leave it to the ankle biters and ball cuppers to confuse style with ascent.

Hey Matt, you ever fix pitches when doing El Cap routes? I already know the answer, so by your own logic I guess you didn't actually climb the route(s) you fixed on. Maybe they should stay up there and get rescued, like you had to on Glacier Peak?

This throwing stones and judging thing sure is easier than climbing routes at your limit.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 20, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
even if they wait it out, that rock needs to be dry because of the difficulty,

that would take a couple of 90 degree days and that ain't gonna happen til next spring,

plus the snow melt dripping off the top, time to bail.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 20, 2010 - 04:16pm PT
Lambone if you included "continuous"'in your IMHO you'd been ok. WB did put the smiley kn there so no malice intended IMHO.

I wouldn't be at all surprised if some day they go for a 24 ascent.

I didn't. Realize when I started reading these threads that some of these pitches have never been freed. That really cool and goes back to what an adventure this climb was/is.
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
Nov 20, 2010 - 06:24pm PT

Hannity is saying Warren Harding was controlling the weather from a cave in Purgatory and that bats were circling at Wine Tower.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 20, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
as of 3:45 this afternoon:
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Nov 20, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
El Cap, if that isn't a mushroom cloud I don't know what is. F the negativity. These guys are so far ahead of there time they should do whatever they think is best to keep the train on the tracks. BTW, lamb, bets have it that these two guys do the first continuous in the future just the way that Lynn Hill progressed over the years on the Nose.

DK
HighTraverse

Social climber
Bay Area
Nov 20, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
I'm relieved they came down. It's been a nasty storm here in the Santa Cruz mtns, lots of cold rain, not a lot of wind (yet). Forecast 34 degrees tonight.
All moving towards Yosemite with about an 8 hour trip.
Current awesome pic from Sentinel Dome.

Pretty low snow level in the valley with the cold part of the storm still on the way.

Wonder how much gear they left behind.
HighTraverse

Social climber
Bay Area
Nov 20, 2010 - 07:48pm PT
gives you an idea of the very cold and wet air to see the clouds condensing like that in the lee of ElDome.
ShibbyShane

Trad climber
El Portal, Ca
Nov 20, 2010 - 07:50pm PT
Looks like they threw in the towel...

Just posted on K. Jorgeson's Twitter:

"Big storm brings an early end to this season. Only one thing to do: keep training and return! 2 minutes ago via Twitter for iPhone"

http://twitter.com/kjorgeson

Good luck next year guys!
murcy

climber
sanfrancisco
Nov 20, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
Big applause for these maniacs! Is there any precedent even for what they did manage to accomplish over the last few days?
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Nov 20, 2010 - 09:01pm PT

Respect your Mama..LIVE to climb again! good call, guys. Amazing climbing!
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Nov 20, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
Hey, they are alive and everyone is hopefully OK. So I am happy.

But I am bummed that they didn't get to finish it. The way things were going, they looked like a freight train. All of that work and training.

Applause for the effort and applause for not screaming for mama.
HighTraverse

Social climber
Bay Area
Nov 20, 2010 - 09:49pm PT
Two stout, tough and smart climbers.
Recognized the odds were very bad, the likely consequences of continuing were severe to themselves and others and came back down.
Well done for a spectacular attempt. No doubt they'll try again and make it.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 20, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
elcapinyoazz

This throwing stones and judging thing sure is easier than climbing routes at your limit.

dude, WTF are you talking about? Chill out with the insults. You are gonna bring up Glacier Peak...really? You must have missed all my posts in this thread where I said they should bail , and "smart move" when they did.

I'm not throwing stones or judging anyone. Just said I think a free ascent should be continous ground up to really claim it's been climbed. don't agree??? fine...I was rooting for them just as much as everyone else. Werner said, "they will just jug back up and finish it." and my thought was, I doubt it. For obvious reasons.

Yeah i've fixed aid routes a pitch it two. What's your point? I'm not out to prove anything. On our 1 IAD route we didn't fix....for personal reasons.
wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
Nov 20, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
Hail, Lighting, and Thunder here in Santa Cruz. There might be a cell heading that way. Also, pretty amazing that you can follow the exploits of world class athletes on the web. It makes me happy that climbing still has some of its fringe status. It makes it seem more like a community yeah?
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 20, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
hey there lancebrock... say, i am glad though, that they are able to freely go with their gut feeling, as, safety-issue ARE good issues, too--even if it meant to "retackle" later...


well, job well done, being that whether going up, or coming down,
fine skills ARE required... :)
corniss chopper

Mountain climber
san jose, ca
Nov 20, 2010 - 10:45pm PT
Rare lightning and thunder in San Jose tonight. Flashlights, chips, and beer
ready for the blackout.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 20, 2010 - 10:46pm PT
hey there say, just saw ALL the post, of them coming down... first, i had only see one...

thanks for letting us all know a bit more...

also, GREAT picture of yosemite's snow on the ol' half? dome... :O

and---thanks for all the santa cruz storm info...
i know folks that may be in some of those areas, depending
on if they are out and about...

:)

edit:
corniss chopper!
thanks for the san jose news...

will call my folks, later..
god bless...
:)
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Nov 21, 2010 - 12:49am PT
i personally would much rather be reading people's lame posts flaming eachother here about what they did or didn't mean to say about an ascent or not an ascent than read about these (or any) climbers trying to tough it out and paying the price.

live to climb another day.
at the end of the day, it's just a free route up el cap.
while that's a cool thing, still, life is so much bigger than that!

(take it from the father of a 10 week old little girl)
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 21, 2010 - 03:03am PT
WTF are you trying to say Matt? You piece of... jk.

Congrats on the baby girl!
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 21, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
Thanks Fet! :)
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Nov 21, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
"should be continous ground up to really claim it's been climbed."

+

"Yeah i've fixed aid routes a pitch it two. What's your point?"

= Blatant hypocrisy.

That's my "point".
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Nov 24, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
tommy and kevin's attempt on mescalito is inspiring. it's funny, tommy actually called me fro the wall asking advice about sitting out a big storm. last year, in early dec, i was faced with the same deal. a record cold was forecast to come in and snow to 500'. although i could have stuck it out(by moving to the base of texas flake which is fairly protected from falling debris), i opted, like kevin and tommy, to head down and finish the climb another day. i finished it in a stellar window early last jan.
as for the continous ascent, that is the best style, but free climbing it expedition style(ie, using fixed ropes and returning when convenient) is plenty valid for a route of this order. ss
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