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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 1, 2010 - 10:38am PT
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Leo and Jason finally sent their longstanding project.
Tom Evans has the full crux spray down here.
More info on the ukclimbing site.
Discuss...
Tom Evans photo:
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
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Proud. Bonus points for style. Really good job.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Beautiful pic. Beautiful stone.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Swimming in LEB tears.
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So rad to see actual free routes going up on that thing. Truly amazing.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Ditto HDDJ
Proud moments in climbing
Can't wait for the Tommy/Kevin thing to go..
Or did I miss something?
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Impaler
Gym climber
Vancouver
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Awesome! Props to Leo and Jason!
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Having seen this unfold both in person from the Bridge and through Toms report. One word comes to mind commitment. I too would be curious as to the difficulty as I believe it has not yet been determined. Maybe its something as simple as Really Effen hard.
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Impaler
Gym climber
Vancouver
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Here's an audio interview with Leo by BBC. He gives it a difficulty rating...
...on a 10 point scale. LOL
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Way to Go Leo & Jason!
Sweet... One more to add that to the list (of routes I'll never send!).
How hard?
"The Prophet will be the hardest route I've done by miles, the A1 beauty pitch alone is the hardest thing I've tried..."
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Stellar! Inspiring us to push our own limits.
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Double D
climber
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Way impressive!
Nice photos too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topo?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Nice one, I thought they'd given up on it a few years ago.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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It's on the Long, Hard and Free page
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/longhf.htm#elnino
The Prophet - 5.13? (13p: ? 5.13)
FA/FFA - Leo Houlding, Jason Pickles, 10/10
First 5 pitches of Bad to the Bone, then 3 new pitches, a traverse to The Secret Pasage, does 25' of The Secret Passage (original intended line in 2001), and finishes on the last 4 pitches of Eagle's Way.
During the linkup, spent 2 days in the portaledge in a big rainstorm.
Originally attempted from the ground up with no drill.
Freed the first 5 pitches in 2001: Leo Houlding, Jason Pickles, Kevin Thaw, Cedar Wright
On 3rd attempt in 2001, Jason Pickles was injured in a fall on p1.
On 5th attempt in 2001, Houlding and Thaw made it halfway before retreating from a blank section which needed a bolt to protect free climbing.
10/2004 attempt (Houlding and Pickles) ended in a bad storm.
6/2010: Over 4 days, climbed all pitches from the ground and freed all but the "A1 beauty" pitch.
ukclimbing.com
I wasn't sure what to put for the rating.... :-)
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
topanga, CA
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Sounds like this is the only El Cap free route climbed ground up? My knowledge of the history of freeclimbing is poor, but their style seems bold and beautiful.
Much respect.
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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only 13d?
sandbaggers ;-)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Har!
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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clever girl!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Sounds like this is the only El Cap free route climbed ground up? My knowledge of the history of freeclimbing is poor, but their style seems bold and beautiful. They worked the upper pitches from the top, over a lot of trips, for a long time. That doesn't get talked about, but it's part of the game. The redpoint ascent is doing the whole route ground up. That's part of the game as well, in order to be able to really say you freed the route rather than just doing a few dozen 1 pitch routes over the course of any amount of time.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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congratulations on a hard won long term project.
Outstanding achievement....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> They worked the upper pitches from the top, over a lot of trips, for a long time. That doesn't get talked about, but it's part of the game.
It gets talked about on my page. :-)
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twohearts
Trad climber
laguna
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Very nice...Life further fullfilled in fantastic style!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 12, 2010 - 11:57pm PT
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RE: Houlding the Pickle
Tami I wish you hadn't said that: it's like getting Manfred Mann's "Do Wah Diddy Diddy" getting stuck in your head.
I think the route has to be renamed.
Dar
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Nov 13, 2010 - 02:31am PT
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That looks beautiful!
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Pierre
Big Wall climber
Sweden
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Nov 13, 2010 - 09:53am PT
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Don't think it is a ground-up ascent, met Leo on top of El Cap last year - he said he had been working on that line for a few years already.
They rapped in from the top, to work on pitches high up, on that day (may 2009).
Anyway - great effort!
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