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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
The Peaks
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 26, 2010 - 06:21pm PT
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Got these from Clint's site...sorted them by date.
This look right and what are the next big challenges ..
El Cap Free Big Walls (and nearly free)
1975
Free Blast - 5.11b FFA - Jim Bridwell, John Long, Kevin Worrall, Mike Graham, John Bachar, and Ron Kauk
1979
West Face - 5.11b FFA - Ray Jardine, Bill Price.
1988
Salathe' Wall - 5.13b FFA - Todd Skinner, Paul Piana. (12 ascents)
1992
Excalibur - 5.13a, A4 (75% free) FA - Steve Schneider, Bill Price, Jeff Schoen.
1993
The Nose - 5.13c/5.14b FFA - Lynn Hill. (4 ascents)
1998
El Nino - 5.13c A0 FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber. (7 ascents)
Salathe' Wall / Freerider - 5.12d FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber. (Over 30 ascents)
2000
Golden Gate (Salathe' Wall / Heart Route) - 5.13b FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber.(13 ascents)
Lurking Fear - 5.13c FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden.
2001
The Shaft (Muir/Shaft/Shield combination) - 5.13c FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Nick Sagar.
El Corazon (Free Blast(Salathe') / Flight of the Albatross / Son of Heart / Heart Route combination) - 5.13b FFA - Alex Huber.
2003
West Buttress - 5.13c FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden Caldwell.
New Jersey Turnpike - 5.13? A0? 80% free FA - Leo Houlding, Ivo Ninov, Tim Emmy.
Zodiac - 5.13d FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber. one repeat
2004
Dihedral Wall - 5.14a FFA - Tommy Caldwell.
2006
Lost in Translation - 5.12b/c (10p: 2 5.12) FA - Nicolas Favresse, Ivo Ninov.
2007
preMuir (Muir/Shaft/Turning Point/Shield) - 5.13d FFA - Rob Miller, Justen Sjong
2008
Magic Mushroom - 5.13d/5.14a FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Justen Sjong.
The Secret Passage - 5.13c R FA/FFA - Nicolas Favresse, Seán Villanueva.
Mick
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 26, 2010 - 06:22pm PT
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The Free Blast goes only to Mammoth Terraces, about 1/3 of the way up.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 26, 2010 - 08:35pm PT
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Dihedral Wall shouldn't count because it was bolted to snot by Todd Skinner, with tons of bolts added, many next to perfectly good natural pro, for the "convenience" of free climbing. Tommy told me he didn't add any more.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 27, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
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who got the repeat of free zodiac?
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billygoat
climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
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Aug 27, 2010 - 06:46pm PT
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Tommy Caldwell, right?
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Andrew Barnes
Ice climber
Albany, NY
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Oct 28, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
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I'm curious if there are updates to this list since this thread started.
What is the total number of Grade VI free routes on El Cap at this point?
I count about 15 or so, depending on what one counts as a "free route".
Have some routes like Excalibur been fully freed or are they still projects?
Another thing I wonder about is Triple Direct - does it count as a "free route" or not?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Oct 28, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
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whats this route that tom was showing pics from this week (the prophet?) rated? curious
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john hansen
climber
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Oct 29, 2010 - 12:03am PT
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Did Tommy Caldwell ever finish Mescelito?
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Oct 29, 2010 - 12:28am PT
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That's gonna be a while yet, I believe. Just guessin', but he was workin' on the lower pitches last time I saw him.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 29, 2010 - 12:29am PT
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Here's the original page:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/longhf.htm
I update it from time to time, but I don't think I have updated the El Cap part since August 27. I edited it just now to add The Prophet. The list of people who have done Freerider is definitely missing some folks (due to my laziness, and lack of direct knowledge).
P.S. the page includes routes which are 10 pitches or more and 5.11 or harder. So it includes more than El Cap, and it includes the Free Blast even though that does not go to the top of El Cap. It also misses Leo's route Passage to Freedom, because it's 7 pitches.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Oct 29, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
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The Nose - 5.13c/5.14b
What does this rating mean? Finger-size dependent?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Oct 29, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
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'Lost in Translation' is actually spelled "Lost in Transletion", a pun on the foreigner's inability to spell.
So Ivo told me.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 29, 2010 - 06:37pm PT
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>> The Nose - 5.13c/5.14b
> What does this rating mean? Finger-size dependent?
Yes, finger and general body size dependent. Lynn Hill rated the pitch above Camp 6 5.13b, Scott Burke rated it 5.14b, and Tommy Caldwell rated it 5.14a. Lynn used a chicken wing, Scott used "Jerry Lewis stemming" ....
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Oct 25, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
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what is the updated count on el cap free routes these days?
I'm sure Tommy C has the highest number of completed routes.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 26, 2012 - 02:47am PT
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17.
Or possibly 18 or 19 if you count El Nino (99% free) or Excalibur (75% free).
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Oct 26, 2012 - 10:23am PT
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and what about the muir in 94' by smith and cosgrove since this list includes almost complete free routes?
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Oct 26, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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Thanks Clint!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Oct 26, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
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I wonder how long(if ever) it will take before someone climbs all of them.
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