Discussion Topic |
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 6, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
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Elephant's Perch or the Incredible Hulk, I've climbed on both, nothing else comes close. What do you think?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Which has the better belays with blue camalots?
I've heard there are some nice buttresses in the Bugaboos, which are in the Americas.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
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Great photo! I'll be going back to both areas in August. MH, Blue Camalots are more handy at the Hulk than the Perch.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Cool photo.
I will always have fond memories of the Perch. Pardner and I hiked into the lakes for a 5 day stay on a beautiful day. While eating lunch on one of those pretty slabs that dip into the highest lake, four lovely ladies showed up. They proceeded to get naked and jump into the lake. Definitely made the Perch second fiddle. They then yelled at us that we couldnt just sit there and watch so I joined them.
After we got out and dried off they came over and talked. They were going to some party in SV that night, I was tempted to blow may pardner off but that would have been flaky!
We managed the Mountaineers Route, Fine Line, Lowe Route and some other nice climb in 4 perfect days of climbing. But as good as those climbs were, I will never forget the skinny dippers!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Re: Elephant's Perch or the Incredible Hulk
The Incredible Hulk is outside my experience, and I don't have anything close to Donini's climbing/travel background.
However, I can mention that when we put up Pachydermial Pleasantries on “The Perch” BITD: it was very clean and solid rock.
Near the top of the route, when the angle of the rock got lower, there were some loose rocks.
Otherwise: no moss, grass, stacked-rock death-traps, or evil gorses impeded our upward progress.
Of course, the last glaciers had only recently departed: when I was climbing new routes in “The Tooths.”
Golsen: That "don't leave your climbing buddy to chase the women credo" is real sick. I did nearly the same thing once, and have regretted that I didn't dump the bastard and chase the woman. Ah! The wisdom of age.
Skinny dipping or swimming at the Perch Lakes is now frowned on. Campfires, camping anywhere near the lakes, mineral collecting, and large groups are illegal.
Mandatory Disclaimer. The wolves, biting flies, mosquitoes, bears, and rednecks are all "out of control." The closest Starbucks is nearly 60 miles away. If you think you can call 911, for a rescue, on your cell phone: you will die trying.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Dude, yer gonna die up there!
Move along, mind the rail, nothin' to see here.
Shhhhhhhhh.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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If by "America" you mean the US, then... well, coming second is about as exciting as kissing your sister. On the other hand, if you mean "North America" then there's this:
There's a few others in that country to the north of "America", but this one is decent. The Skywalk Buttress on Mt. Combatant (across the Tiedemann Glacier from Mt. Waddington).
(I don't have a good shot of my own, so I pulled this photo, which is by John Scurlock, from the web. If he'd like it removed, I'll certainly remove it.)
And if you're looking for the real thing, there's always this:
I've heard there are a few in Alaska as well, but I've never seen them myself. And down in that other "America", the one south of the Equator, there might be a buttress or two...
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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OK! I surrender! Canada has better alpine rock routes, better beer, and better people.
What's not to like?
Since I have also climbed in the Bugaboos-----I have to vote for the Bugaboos.
To be honest! The climbs are much higher status, and the women you share your adventures with: will be much more impressed.
Bugaboos!
Woohoo!
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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this thread and these photos are fantastic. I love these climbing threads!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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HULK
but I should probably check out the perch to be sure
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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vote for the Perch.. due to the approach by boat over Redfish Lake..(got some pics somewhere...)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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There is some more alpine rock in the USA...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Speaking of which, how do you eat an elephant?
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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The Perch
I also like the boat ride on the Lake. Bring a tent and cooler and bivy at the end of the lake. Start early and you can make it back for the last boat.
I don't mind the Bugs or the Diamond. But in the late 70's (maybe 80's) I got to climb the North Face on North Trapper. That was my first big route climbing into the unknown. Didn't see anyone for 3 days. Made the summit at sunset - nice and orange.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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I was much more impressed with the Perch than the Hulk. Closest thing to Chamonix-style rock I've witnessed in the 48.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
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Ah! And without bolts next to the cracks.
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Dudeman
Trad climber
Idaho/Beyond
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A few good “free” adventures to be had on The Perch for sure. There is some deteriorated rock plus loose and dangerous blocks on some of the routes. The Wendy! Tons of good routes all over the west though. Don’t think I could just choose one. Formation.
The Perch and Redfish Creek Canyon.
The Perch.
On The Beckey Direct
Two of the best picthes on The Mountaineers Route.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Having not climbed the Hulk, I am not qualified to answer the original question but I would say that the EP is the best alpine crag ever! :)
Dudeman,
Love the shots from the Goat's Perch! Great perspective.
HFCS,
It's generally considered bad form to take other people's photos from another website and repost them without giving credit. No big deal... just sayin...
Cheers,
Brad
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
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Interesting that most of the posts on this cali-centric site are extolling the Perch. Where are the kudos for the Hulk?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Elephant's Perch has some really good routes in the 5.9-5.11 range, plus a 12a. Better than Bugaboos for rock quality. (Bugaboos does have those glaciers around for the "setting" factor, though).
In spite of living in California, I still haven't visited the Incredible Hulk. Too much good stuff in Yosemite/Tuolumne. It would probably get the nod for higher altitude routes in the 5.12+ range.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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1. Incredible Hulk (best rock, best weather, best cracks)
2. The Diamond
3. Elephant's Perch
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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The kudos for the hulk people are all out climbing right now Donnini.
I've noticed traffic is down, the climbing threads are slow- as it should be.
It's summer.
I'd love to get out and do something, but alas- it's after work bouldering for me.
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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Jims wording loophole of the thread title allows us Canadians a chance to post up our Buttress fav's. My vote being the West Buttress of the South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos.
Solid granite, clean too.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Charlotte Dome always kinda reminded me a little of Elephant Perch
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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What's wrong with this piece of rock?
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curt wohlgemuth
Social climber
Bay Area, California
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> Interesting that most of the posts on this cali-centric site are extolling the Perch. Where are the kudos for the Hulk?
My experience on the Hulk is limited to the Red Dihedral, but honestly, when my partner and I finished it, we looked at each other, shrugged our shoulders, and started down. I was disappointed, maybe just after the huge buildup it gets.
Of course, the last two groveling pitches leave a bad taste in your mouth. And it didn't help that we slogged into the backcountry only to have to wait for 2 parties in front of us.
If I were a good enough climber to do Positive Vibrations, I'd probably have a different opinion.
I'd like to check out EP now that I read all the kudos about it!
Curt
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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See?
See what you've done? (dammit)
You could seriously DIE up there, man! Don't do it.
Go to the Mall, instead.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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The Mall is safer, in Idaho at least! Hahaha
The Perch, is an awesome chunk of granite, just so remote! I mean it is way up in the b00nies of Idaho!
Thor
Skully, July 31st!
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11worth
Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
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Jim D
I climbed the Perch in 1976 and in 2002. A nice piece of rock. I guess I should head south and check out the Hulk. Good to see you in Leavenworth this summer.
Saw the photo of you racking up for a route in the new Patagonia catalog.
Was there more than one "Blue" on that rack?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2010 - 12:04am PT
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Two blues- one for pro and one for the obligatory blue camalot anchor.
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Jack Burns
climber
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This is bizarre to see this thread. Just this very evening while driving out of the mountains I was wondering how long it would take to link both EP and the Hulk on road trip, possibly on my motorcycle. I've never been to the Hulk but I've done Myopia on the Perch and it is in my top three of all time. Even the "lowly" Mountaineer's Route is very memorable.
This is my current desktop bg...
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/high_sierra/incredible_hulk/106638517
Man, now I'm all pumped up and ready to quit my job.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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The obvious buttress - untouched by lazy Kali wankers!
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Mt Russel?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 10, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
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Not exactly popular but Jello's Feather Buttress on Warbonnet in the Cirque of the Towers sure looks tasty.
The back side of the Howsers has a major contender or two.
From J F Garden's The Bugaboos.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
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I'll be at the Incredible Hulk around 8/10 to 8/14 and the Elephant's Perch around 8/23 to 8/27. Come over and share some lies, at the Perch that might include fish tacos courtesy of "Fritz." In between, another "old man" George Lowe and I are going to jump on the Evolution Traverse with "Freerider" and his dad.
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Jul 10, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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Chief and Lambone - what are those formations? Looks very tasty...
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 10, 2010 - 06:29pm PT
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Hey Jim--you doing the traverse in a push or staying a night? Might be able to steal away some time before work starts again.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jul 11, 2010 - 12:49am PT
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Alpine, did I post in this thread?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2010 - 10:58am PT
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I think that the climbs in the Cirque are too moderate for it to warrant consideration and the routes on the Diamond are a little too short. We're going to bivvy once Marty. Great shots from Canada but I did specify America, hell I could have said Delaware- now that would have been a short thread.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jul 11, 2010 - 11:20am PT
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hell I could have said Delaware- now that would have been a short thread.
Got you covered, there, Jim...
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 11, 2010 - 11:26am PT
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One vote for the Hulk.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Jul 11, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
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That last pitch on the Feather is a doosy! Probably one of the all time coolest pitches anywhere.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jul 11, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
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Why hasn't there been one word about Tillies Lookout on this thread?
Is it a secret?
Also re: Donini's mention that Fritz might make Fish Tacos at "The Perch."
Might is the operative word.
The lakes there used to have a good population of 8"-10" Brook Trout. They have been subjected to more fishing pressure these last few years, but some remain. Maybe those remaining are bigger?
So---Heidi & I might make fish tacos if: I catch some fish, if you bring your own taco supplies, and Donini brand Italian Red wine for the cooks and Donini. Here's a link to Donini's wine company. http://www.vinidonini.it/ENG/content.html
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krahmes
Social climber
LP
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Jul 11, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
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Gotta love Stanley, the hot springs are better and the boat ride is a hoot. Hard to beat the weather in the Sierras which make it in many ways the easiest “hard” mountain range. Great shot of Warbonnet Steve G. I’d sure like to see a photo with Eagle Perch (?), Goat Perch, and Chipmunk Perch marked cuz it’s been 14 years since I’ve been back in there and I no longer recall. The possibility of finding a huge quartz crystal is particular plus of Sawtooth granite.
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50
climber
Stumptown
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Jul 11, 2010 - 10:33pm PT
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Many have said Fine Line is THE route to do on the Perch
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jul 12, 2010 - 01:58am PT
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Went up a very dry positive vibes 2 weeks ago wearing just a t-shirt from 8 am til days end. Including shoe skiing the entire descent notch and the majority of little slide canyon.
The position on the majority of the route is just bonkers. Every pitch is good. Several are five star, pants wetting, get out of your seat and cheer, pieces of alpine perfection. The only other alpine route I've done that even competes is Western Front on Russell.
HULK
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jul 12, 2010 - 02:07am PT
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jul 13, 2010 - 02:47am PT
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I hadn't made that connection before!
thank you alan bartlett!!!!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 14, 2010 - 11:13am PT
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I just recently visited the Hulk. It sure is a tremendous piece of stone. The Perch looks cool too. I have some photos of the Hulk to share.
A blurry shot of a party on Sunspot Dihedral
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 14, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
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Haystack in the Winds has some nice routes
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jul 14, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
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Levy,
When were you up at the hulk?
The party above us does not seem to be in the right postion but my partner was wearing green and had a pink rope....
4th of July this year? Amazing weather.
Can't wait to get back up there!
 Luke
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 15, 2010 - 12:38am PT
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hey there say, donini.... thanks for starting this neat thread/post...
great pictures here, for sure, too...
as always, i have to come later, when i wait for the dowloads, though, so
can't comment too much...
just neat stuff!
thanks again, and to all that chipped in..
god bless...
:)
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 15, 2010 - 10:46am PT
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Luke- aka Cultureshock - Yes I was up there for the 3rd & 4th last week. There was a party on Red Dihedral, a party on Sunspot & someone else who did a few pitches on Positive Vibrations. My partner & I were surprised by all the snow & colder temperatures. It was quite a bit colder than either of us expected & my buddy forgot to bring gloves so we explored & have plans to return very soon.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 15, 2010 - 11:06am PT
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Right here in America ladies and gentlemen.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
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Cali climbers must quake at the sight of that buttress. I did say alpine rock.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jul 15, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
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Levy,
We were up there the 3 and 4th as well. Did the first 6 pitches of Tradewinds on Saturday and were planning on doing Sunspot on Sunday.
The group on it was moving pretty slowly in the morning and after climbing up to the first belay and waiting for them we decided to do a few pitches of Positive Vibes and Rap (we didn't have enough large cams to continue). Did you guys hike up to the base with some stylish large sun hats and then proceed to glissade down the snowpack? It looked like you were having more fun than us, waiting on the rock, and we got motivated to come down.
The key is to be able to start later in the day so you can catch the good temps. It was very warm by noon both days we were there and there was little wind... We did see a party bail from Red Dihedral on the 3rd due to the cold.
Here are some photos from my partner:
http://web.me.com/jrneilson/Homepage/Climbing_blog/Entries/2010/7/2_The_Incredible_Hulk.html
I'll have a trip report up on my blog at some point...
Luke
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 15, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
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Yeah, that was us. We decided to hike over to Maltby lake but couldn't get around it easily due to cliffs that drop right into the water. We hiked to the base of the Hulk to get a better feel for the stone. We saw you guys up there & it looked really fun!
We ended up hiking out that evening & went to Pine Creek the next day for some sport cragging before we headed for home.
Thanks for the info. We shall return!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2010 - 08:34pm PT
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A party bailed from the Red Dihedral on July 3rd because it was too cold! Words fail me.
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Jul 15, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
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They probably thought it was sunny California rock climbing.
Jacket? HUH??? Are you NUTS????
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 16, 2010 - 10:54am PT
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Sergeant Rock- You and DR really need to start The School of Hard Knocks and re-groove some of these recreants!!!
Standard issue--- one rope, one blue Camalot and a belay knife. Make the best of it kid! Won't fit, keep climbing!!! LOL
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
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Sign me up Steve!
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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I lived in Boise for several years. The trips to EP were fantastic! I loved the added pressure of making it back to Redfish in time to catch the boat.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Haven't been to either...so I'll have to just suggest this:
...carry on ladds:-)
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Edejom, where is that butress?
Should Pingora also be included? My partner at the perch swears pingora is better!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2010 - 10:45am PT
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Pingora??? Nothing very hard and not the volume of routes.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Ezra, it's one of the "toes" on the Mount Cowan massif in the Absarokas, South of Livingston, MT in the Paradise Valley.
The most popular route on it is the "Montana Centennial Route" (5.11b) 11-14 pitches--until this decade, it had not been published in any guide. Come and get it:-)
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Edejom,
looks good, I'm just too weak to climb it...:)
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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The Donini/Fritz Fish Taco-feist at Elephants Perch has officially been moved to City of Rocks for August 25-26. Arrival on 24th & exit on 26th.
Time constraints on Donini's part & my confession of some "over-training" tendonitis issues have forced the move.
Jim's deep concerns about the, potentially endangered, mosquito population at the Elephant's Perch being further reduced by "slap-happy" climbers: was another, very compelling, reason to move the venue.
If you have been lurking and planning to attend, speak up.
When I get a handle on attendance, I can figure out if we need a “group camp.” As of now we have Donini, Fritz, Heidi, and 3 from SLC.
The 25th is Fritz fish taco and Donini red wine night.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Watch out for elkephants!
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Aug 13, 2010 - 07:41pm PT
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Nothing to add but a picture from a couple of days ago. A bit windy, but no mosquitos, and plenty of awesome.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Aug 13, 2010 - 07:47pm PT
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Does this one count? El Cap sized with an El Cap like approach but you'll probably be the only ones on it.
Cobra Pillar
Personally, I can't think of a more spectacular place to climb in north america.
It's your route, right?
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Mar 24, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
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This needs a bump and some Hulk Love!
More splitters on Solar Burn. Photo by Aaron Cassebeer
What is the best time of year to go to Elephants Perch? Can you still climb there in September or is it too cold?
Has it been a big snow year?
Thanks!!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 24, 2014 - 05:58pm PT
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Not the longest climbs of the selection on here, but at 4-600ft you can find plenty of climbing.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Thinking about Elephant's Perch the third week in July. Thoughts?
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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I could recommend the "Golden Dihedral Route" on Ambush Peak, in the Wind River Range as a contender. It was absolutely clean, and free of loose rock on the 1st ascent, back in 1972, (don't escape right on the final pitches).
Jim Donini and I did "No Picnic for Old Men", to the left, which is more chossy, but harder, 5.10D.
All the pitches on the "Golden Dihedral", are stellar- about 12 piches-5.9+
There are 16 pitch routes on the main face of Ambush Peak.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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12! pitches of 5.9+ in the Winds!! Pretty nice, but that shot of SE Face of Bugaboo Spire Fritz put up; I can't get that one out of my mind. Looks something special.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2015 - 06:56am PT
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Nice shot of the Cobra Pillar!
Steve.....Ambush Peak is great, thanks for getting me there.
Mid- July should be good for the Perch.....there will be some mosquitos.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jim,
I regret not doing the Golden Dihedral Route with you. It is easier than the route we did, but no decomposed rock, up high, and an incredible finish, which the "young" Charlie Fowler led, around 1976, I think.
I ought to remember the date, since it was on my "honeymoon". My memory for dates su---ck!
skcreidc:
Only about 1/2 are 5.9, and the rest are easier. On the 1st ascent, there was no snow at the base, and we made a direct start up the lower slabs, which added more spice.
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