Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 87 of total 87 in this topic |
Chief
climber
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:11am PT
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Jayzuzz!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:44am PT
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Not a bad day Alex!
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Austin, Texas
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:48am PT
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holy smokes!! zehr gut!
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Cpt0bvi0u5
Trad climber
Merced CA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:48am PT
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Crazy! Great sends and proud record for sure!
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:54am PT
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-Just gotta love the guy; stout!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:54am PT
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and we have threads here suggesting there is not a God!
Holy Alex My mind boggles
Wonder what the car to car time was. (not that Alex cared much cause he hung out with Tom for awhile, not like he had to race or anything!)
Congrats
Karl
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:57am PT
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Wow Alex. It's awesome seeing my generations greatest being ALL generations greatest.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jun 23, 2010 - 03:07am PT
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YOWZA!!!!:)
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 03:12am PT
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I'm pretty much blown away by this. 8 hours of total climbing for both of them.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Looking for love in all the right places...
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Jun 23, 2010 - 03:14am PT
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Jumpin' Jehosaphat! I'll be draggin' my jaw around on the floor for the next half hour....
Eric
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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Jun 23, 2010 - 04:26am PT
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H-Bomb strikes again !!!
The New World Order is here now
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Brian
climber
California
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Jun 23, 2010 - 07:52am PT
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Well now, that's pretty damn impressive, especially since it just seemed to be a "fun" day for him (i.e., not really rushing or stressed).
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
Full Silos of Iowa
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Jun 23, 2010 - 09:58am PT
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Wow. Astonishing achievement.
Anyone know his shoe size?
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Jun 23, 2010 - 10:02am PT
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Way to Go Alex
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 10:10am PT
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God, it's wonderful. Alex is now due more than a "golden piton" award; something more in line with a Nobel Prize for Climbing, I have to imagine. It's obviously insanely wonderful for him to climb at this level because vicariously for us from afar, it's pretty much "once-in-a-lifetime" joy just observing his works of imagination and power.
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Jun 23, 2010 - 10:19am PT
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Thanks Chris for bringing this to my attention.
Great job to Alex.
Proud sends
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 23, 2010 - 10:20am PT
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Funny to see pictures of Alex. You might not think to single him out by looks to be one of the boldest, hard men in climbing history, but he's bad ass without having much "bad" in him!
Peace
Karl
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jun 23, 2010 - 10:27am PT
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Another amazing feat by Alex!
Stunning! The photos Tom Evans posted of Alex cruising unroped high on the Nose are amazing. Mind blowing stuff!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 10:46am PT
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I agree, Karl. Really a modern climber, isn't he! We are in the presence of a true and rare climbing genius, no question. And it is not a case of, "Modesty is the ability to call attention to whatever it is you are being humble about"--- he just is relaxed, really bright, and seems awesomely centered.
I really like how in an interview a few years ago, the subject developed that within his family down in Sacramento, he was typically kidded about looking like a cow, what with the big brown eyes. So I guess it's the Cow that Jumped Over The Moon, truth be told now.
Here are some more photos that reveal what a funny unassuming character he is, the first with his climbing partner Sean Leary:
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jun 23, 2010 - 11:29am PT
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Came here to post this but I guess I don't get up early enough. Crazyness.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 23, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
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Giving hope to goofy looking kids everywhere, he's our hero!
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 23, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
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OK, forget what I said back on the "Honnold, please don't solo the Nose" thread some months back. Got to give it to the guy.
Personally I'm hoping to drag my sorry ass up Half Dome one more time this summer. Giving myself 3 days. lol But don't worry, I'll let free soloists pass.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 23, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
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He brought about a 30 ft cord on Half Dome and he brought a full 60 meter rope on The Nose, only used it getting to boot, for the king swing, and on the great roof.
I guess that means he was unroped on the changing corners pitch?
A tiny shiver of fear goes through me just thinking about it......
That dude is mind blowing!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 23, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
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Bad f'ing ass. Cutting Dean and Hans' solo link up times by what 50%!!!???
If you can do something in half the time it took Hans and Dean, well, that's insane.
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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Jun 23, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
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W.O.W. wow wow
that's fantastic.
(i'm guessing some french free on the changing corners..? having seen the video of T.C. grunting up it seems like a pretty desperate pitch. And with the pack and rack, etc?)
I'm really glad to see this kind of effort from Alex as it puts less emphasis on the "big free solo" and brings him closer into the realm of the kind of feats croft potter flourine et al. are known for. Slightly less sensational to the casual observer, but no less serious. A little more room for flexibility and just plain badass.
Proud stuff Alex. keep it up.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 23, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
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Very cool ascents Alex. I am curious about the details of unroped French freeing. The pictures I have seen of Changing Corners didn't seem to have much protection to pull on.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 23, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
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Yeah man, I'm really wondering about some of those upper pitches without a rope.....and shaking my head.
Details CMac? Anyone?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jun 23, 2010 - 01:34pm PT
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Way cool!
Be safe, Alex!
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luggi
Trad climber
from the backseat of Jake& Elwood Blues car
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Jun 23, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:03pm PT
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Just amazing is all I can say!
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Gene
Social climber
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
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Perhaps the lad had a daisy belay at the CC pitch(?) Astounding what he's done. A walk in the park.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
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gee, what's left to do? a NSEW linkup? The Nose, Steck Salathe, NWFHD and the Rostrum...
amazing beyond imagining... Karl's right, I'm wrong, there is a god...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
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How about RNWF, Growing Up, and Southern Belle, back to back?
Maybe throw in Karma for an appetizer.....
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WandaFuca
Social climber
From the gettin place
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:19pm PT
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Wow! What an amazing day for Alex!
As to the Changing Corners pitch--and not meant in anyway to detract from his amazing speed ascent--it looks to me like he is aiding it unroped. In the photo below Alex seems to be standing on an aider attached to the bolt.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
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Whew....that's actually a bit of a relief!
Did he do the sit start?
BWA HA Hhahaaaa! That's a great one Randisi.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Jun 23, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
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The only aid fall we had on the Triple Direct was my partner's ripping three micro nuts from the Changing Corners.
What about the pitch to the Glowering Spot? Also hairy!
This achievement is so far out there. Still can't rap the mind around it. Amazing stuff from the young blood.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jun 23, 2010 - 03:21pm PT
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As to the Changing Corners pitch--and not meant in anyway to detract from his amazing speed ascent--it looks to me like he is aiding it unroped. In the photo below Alex seems to be standing on an aider attached to the bolt.
Yes I assumed that "unroped" did not mean "free solo" for a lot of the hard pitches. Still balls out either way.
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
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Amazing, I think were witnessing the best rock climber ever. Way to go Alex
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Jun 23, 2010 - 06:30pm PT
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It just seems unbelievable. Like "Hey, those are a couple of great problems to work on today" or something... Awesome!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 23, 2010 - 06:51pm PT
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I know that the link up of HD and the Nose is the story here, but hasn't Dean Potter been climbing the Nose in this style and speed for a few years?
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yogiclimber
climber
Martinez
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Jun 23, 2010 - 07:06pm PT
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Congrats Alex!
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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Jun 23, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
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only a matter of time till he free solos it i s'pose? not a statement--just musing.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 23, 2010 - 07:18pm PT
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Damn!
I just spilled weak sauce on myself......
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
Arkansas, I suppose
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Jun 23, 2010 - 07:19pm PT
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I am weak sauce...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 23, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
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I am.........
Captain Weak Sauce!!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jun 23, 2010 - 08:17pm PT
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
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Yo... like I said in the Report... he used some cams for holds every now and then and obviously used some aid here and there...great roof ... climbing to the boot etc.... it is not a free solo but an aid solo with most of it being third classed. It has never been presented as anything else. His time was so fast because he didnt have to go back down pitches to collect gear and rope. He trotted down the Death Slabs. It was fun to watch and more fun to shoot! All in all it was climbed in a rational, sensible manner for a man of his talents. He is not suicidal you know!
Tom
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 09:01pm PT
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the ladies of camp 4.
wat?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 23, 2010 - 09:22pm PT
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AhmminnyAhmminnyAhmminny ...
WTF? Over.
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john hansen
climber
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Jun 23, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
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I know there are many ways to get down to the valley from Half Dome.
Just curious , what way did he come down? And is it the same way used by other Half Dome / El Cap link ups.
Basically,,, whats the fastest way to get from the top of the Dome to the base of the Cap? Of course, no base jumping allowed..
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kevsteele
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jun 24, 2010 - 10:12am PT
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Congratulations - what an awesome day. And on his own after the speed trials with Uli. Wish I was in the Valley to have seen it from the bridge, Or better yet been up on the Captain :-)
Peter Mortimer filmed Alex for his film "Alone on the Wall" and it was both a great piece of filmmaking and a great insight into Alex: the trailer is here...http://vimeo.com/11687754
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John Galt
Big Wall climber
puerta Natales, Chile
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Jun 24, 2010 - 10:15am PT
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Apologies I made a typo in my email enews list. Alex did The Nose in 5:49 not 5:59. When I got the voice message at around 9am from Alex I was grinning all day at work knowing he was up there climbing away. Dang, now I've got to get off the couch and go climb The Nose solo in 2:54:30. (Alex cut my solo time in half so I have to return the inspirational favor)
To answer an early post question about car to car time: Alex told me he was considering camping at the base of Half Dome, so his "car to car" time would not be comparable. I'm not sure if he did camp or not.
Alex was very generous to me on the phone after he did the routes and said he would have taken longer than me if he had a wife, kids, job, and had to jug and clean all the pitches. I think he's going to run for president of the AAC. I'd say I would of taken twice as long as John, Jim, and Billy if I had to place pitons and nuts. Everyone has their time.
Hans
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Jun 24, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
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What about this stuff of Alex soloing the Crucifix?
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go-B
climber
In God We Trust
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Jun 24, 2010 - 01:48pm PT
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Outstanding!
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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Jun 24, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
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But I thought all you old has-beens told me the "Golden Age" of Yosemite is over?
Congrats on an amazing accomplishment, Alex, and on having a really fun day.
TC
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 24, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
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That video on the nose is pretty cool.
Crucifix. It's true we're only talking about climbing, which is not that important of a thing in the big picture of the world. But I wonder if it's weird to walk around knowing that you are on a completely different plane of existence than everyone you meet? To know that people cannot fathom what you do?
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Jun 24, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
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Too bad he was driving around in his van after climbing Half Dome, though.
Deduction! :)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 24, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
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Scott,
The world has changed. Young, high-end climbers have limited opportunities to stand out. The options are pushing the highest free climbing standards, free climbing big walls, speed climbing, and free-soloing. For lots of reasons, free-soloing and speed climbing are the games of choice nowadays. Look at the videos of Alex and Dean. And count the number of climbers in the Valley at all skill levels that climb unroped.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jun 24, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
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I dont know, I saw the Pics Tom took.
It didn't look so hard.
Whats the big deal?
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Dudeman
Trad climber
Idaho/Beyond
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Jun 24, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
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Flippin Gnar!!!
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Conrad
climber
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Jun 24, 2010 - 05:23pm PT
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Alex Honed & Bold.
way to go youth...
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phillygoat
climber
portland,
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Jun 24, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
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Coz,
Your curmudgeon is showing.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 24, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
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Astonishing, and a fine display of spirit and ability! I wonder what's next?
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Gene
Social climber
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Jun 24, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
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After all in climbing history it is the pioneers that are remembered. All the climbers of my day who didnīt establish new climbs are for the most part forgotten.
Playing devil's advocate here, but Peter Croft, Henry Barber, and John Bachar made their names on existing routes, ignoring for the sake of discussion the Bachar-Yerian, an all time classic FA.
Not that it matters at all.
I wish Alex the best. From all I have seen and heard, he's quite the level headed young man.
g
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Jun 24, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
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Neat clip linked above, to First Ascent: Alone on the Wall.
I had no idea he had a camera crew with him up on Half Dome and Moonlight when he solo'd those lines.
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Jun 24, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
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does his mother know about this?
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Gene
Social climber
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Jun 24, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
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LOL.
Yeah, they put up a ton. But they are mostly known for their free solo repeats of existing routes.
Devil
[/off_thread]
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Double D
climber
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Jun 24, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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Wow, that's impressive. I don't even think I could hike the 8,000 verticle feet and cruise down the valley in that time.
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canyonrat
Trad climber
Armstrong BC
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Jun 25, 2010 - 02:10am PT
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Congratulations Alex! Thanks for the post Chris
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 25, 2010 - 02:11am PT
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Peter Croft did a lot of new routes and first free ascents, some quite significant, at Squamish and then Leavenworth before making a mark in Yosemite and the Sierra.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jun 27, 2010 - 12:50am PT
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incomprehensible...
one proud day
on a side note, anyone else find this a bit humorous:
>My generation never climbed to make a name for themselves....
>.... All the climbers of my day who didnīt establish new climbs are for the most part forgotten.
hmmm.... wonder why we're concerned about being forgotten since we climbed in such a Zen state. Makes me wonder where all those articles and pics came from since the FAs had no interest in self promotion....
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Jun 27, 2010 - 01:28am PT
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Watch your heels.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 27, 2010 - 01:53am PT
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"Watch your Achilles...and don't be a heel."
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jun 27, 2010 - 02:35am PT
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Alex claimed that "the whole timing thing is not a strong point for me...I stopped to look at two amazing birds on the way down from Half Dome. I'd hate to have to hurry." Still, he admits that he "was hoping to break the speed record on [Half Dome], which is 1:50 or something."
From the Alpinist article. I just think that is such a great quote.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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thx for the link...
"I spent easily 10 minutes sitting on Thank God Ledge trying to booty a brand new fixed #4 Camalot."
ah, good to know he's a dirt bag too. :)
all is right with the world.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Such a down to earth trip report for an out of this world day. So cool to read his account.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Such craziness is beyond my imagination. Thanks for helping me stretch my powers of visualization Alex, but please: this is some sick hard scary stuff, listen to your gut and pull the plug anytime you think you need too. Don't be doing this sh#t for us, cause we're, collectively and totally, not worth it.
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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Alexs ascent and from the heart account of it, truly makes a mockery of Edwin Drummonds troll, "Open letter to Alex". Edwins thread was nothing more than an attempt to draw attention to Edwin.
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Brian
climber
California
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Great trip report: a massive accomplishment (total understatement), described straightforwardly without spray, and clear description of the style of ascent. Fecking brilliant, and way inspirational.
Brian
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