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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 22, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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Hi, Paul Humphrey here.
Curious as to how many Supertopo readers are "Former" Humboldt, Ca climbers. What's your names, when were you there?
I lived, climbed and put up routes in Humboldt from 1990-2008. I just got back from a trip to the Trinity Aretes, So-So- grotto, and other areas.
So where have you gone, humboldt's long lost climbing friends?
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jun 22, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
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what's up Paul...
Doug
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Lurking Fear
Boulder climber
Bishop, California
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Jun 22, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
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I went climbing the first time in 1981 under the direction of Dave Zander at Moonstone Beach. Steve Gerberding and Dave Bengston also climbed with Dave. Dave B. graduated from Humboldt State. I only lived there a year before transferring to Fresno State. It was closer to bigger rocks.
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Strongerdog
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 01:30am PT
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I was at HSU with the infamous Darly Cramer in somewhere around 1986/7. Rained every day that winter. I rowed crew to keep my mind off the rain and the ugly women. Bailed to the UW the next year. I hear the rain is still as bad - not so sure about the women.
Strong
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Jun 23, 2010 - 08:35am PT
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it sure felt like the bouldering at black sands beach was pretty personal during the watergate era.
think blue suede boots and halibut hat. summer job: launched boats out of shelter cove those years.
never the luxury of a spotter, but was there ever a better landing surface? ... like a splashdown into the chiclet pit!
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That's Papajoto to you son!!!!!
Social climber
Oatmeal Arizona
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Jun 23, 2010 - 09:18am PT
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Hey Paul,
Fred Berman here. I just climbed with Rich Ludwig in Indian Creek. I'll post a trip report soon.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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Jun 23, 2010 - 11:12am PT
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Yeah man! '81 - '91
I got schooled in Humboldt. You really had to be dedicated to climbing, but there was enough to keep you in shape.
I used to climb with this guy named Darrel Cramer (?) Wayne (?), and some other older guy who would free solo the Urchin route on Karen rock (5.10).
Later on I climbed a lot with Tim Wilhelmi (what ever became of him?). Mark Petrolingo ("Petch") was there too in the early 90's. Us three developed a crag at Patricks Point and started putting up routes at footsteps rocks, too.
I think Tim and I did the first ascent of "Dream Theme" at Karen, which was originally called the Web Wall. That was around '86, or so . . . Tim eventually lead that thing on sketchy gear!
Lots of fond memories of Friday evening climbing sessions at Moonstone. It was a real cool scene.
Yeah Fred, post that TR!!!
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jun 23, 2010 - 11:18am PT
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I went to school there from '82-'85. Mostly climbed at Moonstone Beach, Patrick Point, and Castle Crags / Shasta when not going to the Valley. Fun times.........
Paul
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coiler
Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
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Jun 23, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
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Hey Paul. It's Bryan Kay here... I climbed out there in the early '90 with Petch, Wilhelmi, yourself and the rest of the Humboldt Stone Ascentionists. I moved away in '94. I had exhausted just about every job in Trinidad where I was living, and done just about all the routes I was going to do on the beaches... Got a spot on the YOSAR and the rest is history. Lot's of climbing and FA's in Yosemite...Now, I'm living in the house I bought outside Yosemite and enjoying time my family. C'mon out, You've got a place to stay! It would be good to catch up and find out what's been going on throughout the years... and, man, where did all those years go?
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mark fishbein
Sport climber
Glenwood Springs, CO
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Aug 22, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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I climbed in Humboldt area during the mid 1980"s with Partner Doug La Farge, wife Shelley, Tim Wilhelmi. Rich Ludwig, Fred Berman, Sharron Urquart, Lori ? and Terry Norman. Doug and I established some short hard (at the time ) routes on Moonstone / Lufenholdtz PO wall areas. Trinity trips and castle crags---we looked to do new good routes wherever we could find them ---lots of solos at Karens Rock and full traverse. Smith rock trips during the development period of Smith. Lots of J tree trips and Seirra trips. Lycra and sport climbing were like a new date then....hotter than H@#l At the time we were all poor college students havin lots of fun!! Good to hear climbing is alive and well in the Humboldt area ---thank you all --climbing is a good life!!!! ---Dr. Fishbein
PS matias? was there and Bengston had just left to Tuolome
We are now in Glenwood Springs<colorado and have 2 young adult boys (Scott and Dan) Climb infrequently but stay in the mix-----
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nature
climber
Whereverland....
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Aug 22, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
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Mark!!!!!!
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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Aug 22, 2010 - 05:12pm PT
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Woah! Mark!
Crazy man, those were the days. I wonder if they still have that traverse down there with the handball courts?
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nature
climber
Whereverland....
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Aug 22, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
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Joto = Fred = Joto ;-)
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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2010 - 01:05am PT
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Wow, good to see more posts on this one.
The traverse wall was torn down along with the courts. The building is remodeled with a cool climbing wall that only students can easily use.
Myself and Eric Chemello, Adam Wanden, Tom Ogden, Cedar Wright, Sean Leary and others continued the new routing through the 90s and early oughts.
Any detailed history would be apreciated from the green fog of time as far as who did what when and where in tne past. I will be in Indian Creek at Sushi Fest. Updates to climbing history are greatly needed when it comes to Humboldt.
C-ya, Paul Humphrey
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Robb
Social climber
The other "Magic City on the Plains"
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Aug 23, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
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Any of you ever climb on the cliffs back east of the Kneeland road?
JACKS!!!
Class of '97
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Nibs
Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
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Aug 23, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
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Miss the traverse wall big time. open 24/7 to anybody. Spent many hours there, even after gigs working off a little steam at 3am. The new climbing wall maybe cool but isn't open to me...
To all of you movers and shakers of the Humboldt traverse wall, a belated and hearty thank you for all the work you all put into creating the traverse wall from its humble beginnings to the full length of the hallway to the overhang/crack structure. It was incredible! I probably saw some of you monkeys monkeying around - some incredible displays of control and strength.
One of those memories, probably 1992(?) when the wall was complete door to door difficulty increasing from east to west - right to left: This young lady comes in with a fella 'spotting.' She starts at the easy holds moving very slowly and I think "she isn't going to make it very far at that rate." She proceeds to move at the same pace all the way down the hall...then back! never touching the floor - the most amazing traverse of the wall I witnessed. Most guys would be grunting and swearing at the west end - she cruised smooth...
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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
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Thought I would bump this back up.
I just barely missed long lost friends and climbing partners Sean Leary and Cedar Wright in Yosemite, a couple of weeks ago. It seems we are often days or weeks apart at the same areas over the years.
It got me thinking again about Humboldt County, Ca climbers. We were / are an unusual bunch, and often don't even know each other. SO past or present, in Humbolt or away...
Who are you? Where are you ? and how the heck are ya?
I am traveing with my girlfriend Ruth right now while I fight a terminal case of Melanoma cancer. Still alive, still climbing.
Right now we are traveling through Ouray, Co. C-ya. Paul Humphrey.
HOW ABOUT YOU?
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Vgavinator
Social climber
Ladera Ranch, CA
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Hello Paul:
I don't know if we ever met or not.
I worked as a forester for LP out of Little River and Big Lagoon from 1975 thru 1995 and climbed regularly at Moonstone, Pat's Point, the beaches. The exit for my work was Little River Drive so I could go boulder on the way home from work. I have lived in Trinidad, Arcata and McKinleyville.
I climbed with a lot of people. My most memorable friends were Darrell Cramer and Wayne Romanchuck. My memory of Dream Theme is that Darrell dreamt it and Wayne top roped it for the first time.
On Elephant Rock Wayne (nicknamed Mouse)actually led Mouse Crack for a first. There happened to be a story about the mouse obviously. That was where Bob Albonico started climbing.
Again I climbed with a lot of different people and I can't remember a lot of names.
Thanks for the thread.
Jeff Frome
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Hey Paul
Still at the Leap but also been spending a good chunck of the winter in Shelter Cove. If you are coming on through the Tahoe area, look me up.
Petch
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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
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Jeff,
Are/were you a skinny guy who enjoyed a can of cheap beer while TRing at moonstone in an older harness? I know, that could be anyone, but I think I remember you.
Is Mouse crack on elephant rock the obvious gully / crack around to the right end of the good rock (not facing the Hwy?) I found old 10 penny nails in it for aid, along w a 1/4 inch bolt.
Elephant got climbed over and turned innto a sport lead area. But the old lady who claims she owns it keeps chasing climbers away. I think she is wrong. It is on Cal trans right of way property / timber company land.
Any info or shout outs to other pre 1990's climbers would be cool if you guys had stories to post.
C-ya,
Paul Humphrey
Edit: Cool Petch. You might see us.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Thanks for the post, I miss good ol' Humboldt...
Graduated from HSU in 2003. wasn't much of a climber back then, but did enjoy some great beachfront bouldering at moonstone and Trinidad.
I live in Lake Tahoe (South shore, Nevada side) and I frequent Lovers Leap, Phantom Spires, Eagle Lake Cliff among other great Tahoe crags...
I climb often on the east side as well!
If any of you Humboldt climbers are passing thru Tahoe just let me know, I'd be happy to show you the climbing mecca that is the Tahoe Sierra!!!
-Eric
shiva5277@hotmail.com
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Vgavinator
Social climber
Ladera Ranch, CA
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Oct 12, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
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Paul:
You said
"Are/were you a skinny guy who enjoyed a can of cheap beer while TRing at moonstone in an older harness?"
My God how I resemble that remark. Still.. except I am not in Humbolt anymore.
Mouse crack was on Elephant Rock right next to slug slab. It went up to the right of the roof.
Actually Elephant rock is owned by two different property owners. When I worked for LP we owned 1/2 and I think it was the Christies who owned the second half. They would always kick people off their side. Even me when I worked for LP! I think Green Diamond owns the LP half now.
Nails.
Sorry to be long winded but another story.
Earth Firsters put up a huge banner accross Elephant Rock just after they listed the Spotted Owl as threatened(what a joke). It read SAVE LITTLE RIVER SAVE THE SALMON SAVE THE SPOTTED OWL. They had nails all over the place holding the banner up in the middle of the rock. I am sure they thought no one could get to it. On my way to work at 5:00 in the AM I saw the sign and had it down by 10:00. My kids used to say I got paid to go climbing. I tried to get all the nails out. I still have the banner.
Jeff
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moguls
Trad climber
Portland
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Nov 17, 2010 - 02:24pm PT
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I used to climb with the Bob's Nolan and Crowell at Moonstone, Luffenholtz, Redwood National, etc. Bob-cubed
I'm Bob Westhead....I remember you'all Doug Lafarge, Brian Kay
Stopped climbing when I moved to Portland. Skiing and Mt biking have taken over.
I met up with Crowell and his buds from Mad River Brewing a few years back at Smith Rock. We drank cases of Stealhead and climbed till the sun went down.
I lost touch with Crowell???? Anyone gots any ideas?
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 17, 2010 - 06:37pm PT
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I bouldered there 1971-77. That was mostly up around Moonstone and North of Trinidad. I remember one neat rock out Old Stagecoach Rd north of College Cove. I may have put a rope on the Moonstone cliff once, too. I don't recall running into other climbers there, except for Mark Chapman of Yosemite fame. I think he attended Humboldt for a couple years towards the end of the 70s.
I mostly surfed when I was in Humboldt, and drove to Yosemite to climb. I've never been too into limestone climbing and I don't think anyone had climbed on that then, but I sure wish I knew about the caves when I was there.
Darwin
proud graduate of the HSU Chemistry Department! I wonder how Tom Clark and Roger Weiss are doing?
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Outside
Trad climber
Truckee
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Nov 18, 2010 - 11:43am PT
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Hey Bob and Paul,
BC is now living here in Truckee, recently suffering a collapsed vertbrate in his neck, unfortunately the damage is pretty severe even after surgury and is unable to work anymore....probably love to hear from you guys.....
I was in Humboldt 95-00 and climbed alot with BC and became part of the Mad River Brew Crew around 98' and was on that trip to Smith Rocks...is that when we stayed at the condo for the night? And came up in BC's live in Van?
I moved here from Humboldt after graduation and got BC to move here in 05' from the City (Bay Area)
Paul I remember camping with you and a few others at JT one New Years as you were our rope gun and set up alot of ropes for us and we smoked and drank for a week straight.....haha
Bill P
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rock*
Boulder climber
???
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Nov 18, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
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Back in Boulder - better economy, weather and lots more rock close by. But, I do miss Humboldt sometimes. I loved the friendly scene up there - It seemed like we'd have every climber in the county out climbing and drinking beer together sometimes. Climbing on the beach on a sunny day was always a treat, plus the limestone in Co. sucks compared to the stuff up there!
I hope you are feeling okay Paul and thanks for the thread!
Ben
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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Nov 18, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
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I remember you, Jeff Frome, I got my early schooling as a climber from you guys. It was great to go out and get sandbagged by Darrel, Wayne and yourself. You guys showed me no mercy, and I thank you for that. Made me tough and ballsy . . .
Anyone who claims to be a climber and lives in Humboldt has to be the real deal. The climbing is so sparse and marginal (especially back in the 80s) you have to be dedicated to stay honed. After a couple years up there, I rarely climbed something I didn't have wired.
Who was that guy that used to solo the urchin route on Karen rock?
I'm the guy who cratered off of Low Tide Crack in 1982. I was rapping of of a single lost arrow, which rotated out of the crack when my partner tried to give me a fireman's belay. I was eventually hoisted out of there by Coast Guard helicopter with a split pelvis, brolen ribs and a ruptured kidney.
What Fun!
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2010 - 01:44pm PT
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Nice to see people posting to this one! I replaced the 1/4' bolts on top of Low tide crack with petzl glue ins back in the mid '90's. Were the 1/4'ers placed after your fall, Reeotch?
Outside And Rock*, Good to know BC is alive, if not well. Have him email me, please?! I remember many JT trips like the one described. Wish I was there right now.
I am on a new treatment for the stage IV cancer I have now. It seems to be working!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So soon, perhaps. JT orr elswhere.
How about a Humboldt climbrs, meet / reunion next spring somewhere, (Humboldt?)
C-Ya,
Paul Humphrey
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Shaun_the_Conqueror
Trad climber
Arcata, CA
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Nov 18, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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How about a Humboldt climbrs, meet / reunion next spring somewhere, (Humboldt?)
Throw a kegger at the gym.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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Nov 18, 2010 - 02:00pm PT
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Yeah DM, I didn't even make it to the top that time. I belayed 1/2 way up because I ran out of hexes. I had attempted to belay my partner up in his Chuck Taylors, he couldn't make it. So, instead of leaving any of my shiny new hexes, I slammed in a LA. That's when I learned about redundancy . . .
Hey man, good luck on your treatment.
I'm in if we could get some sort of reunion organized. My brother still lives in McKinnelyville.
Anybody know anything about Tim Wilhelmi???
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moguls
Trad climber
Portland
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Nov 20, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
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YO Yo Bob Westhead here in Portland, OR......friend me on Facebook if you know me.....we should set up a network there......maybe we can find others?
Not really climbing anymore.....skiing is my new passion
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Power Factor
Trad climber
Laramie,WY
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Nov 22, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
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Todd Raugewitz taught me to climb on Karen Rock and I climbed mostly with him and Matthias Holiday from ’83-88. It was a great place to launch an obsession with climbing. RL do you remember me? We didn’t climb together much but we shared a campsite a few Christmas holidays in JT. You and Tim kept my ego in check.-Jeff Rickerl
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moguls
Trad climber
Portland
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Nov 23, 2010 - 02:42pm PT
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Hey Bill, thanks for the info about Bob Crowell. I'm very sorry to hear that about him. He is such a tough dude. Tell him I said hi.
Pass along my phone number/email to him; 503-281-5840, westhead@hei.net.......don't spam me bros.....LOL
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Nov 23, 2010 - 03:49pm PT
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bob... you can find BC via my facebook. bob and pati too.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2010 - 02:02am PT
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Back at the turn of the millenium I wrote an article about Bob Crowell, otherwise known as BC. Rock and Ice published it under the title "The Lifer". This is the original pre-magazine edited version.
(I couldn't find any scanned photos of BC yet. Anyone got some?)
Hi Bob!
Life Behind The Redwood Curtain
Paul D. Humphrey
I’ve met at least 80% of my friends climbing at Moonstone Beach, the local hang out crag. That’s where I met Bob Crowell. He had a cigarette in his left hand and a belay in his right. Not far away was a cold beer had been carefully cradled in the sand. He had just offered me a ride on his top rope, if I didn’t mind him belaying. BC ,as he introduced himself, was obviously a local. I was new to these parts, was flattered that he would be so friendly. We have stayed in touch and climbed on occasion together over the years. But even though our circles do not often overlap, I’ve considered him a friend from that first meeting.
BC, like many “local” climbers originally came to Humboldt for an education. He had started climbing as a young teenager at Castle Rocks in the Bay Area. He was climbing at Moonstone in 1989 the day after he arrived when he was offered a top rope from another period climber and activist, Tim Wilhelmy. That was one thing that impressed Bob the most. At other areas he had been to it was every climber for themselves. Here people went out of there way to help him fit in.
I myself take a certain sick pleasure in introducing newcomers to our local climbing, especially leading. I have seen competent climbers grovel, moan, shake and even cry trying their first Northcoast climb. I’ve been told on numerous occasions that so-and-so would “never climb again” while here.
Bob seemed to take to it, though. When we talked recently he stated firmly that Humboldt stone had helped his climbing at “every other area” he had visited for two reasons. First, “Always be leery of the rock.” The brittle and unpredictable nature of much of our stone requires nothing be taken for granite. The second lesson Bob learned here was to be attentive, not just to the climb but the surroundings as well.
Bob was climbing with the core of Humboldt climbers soon after his arrival. He boasted about his climbing and began attempting new routes. One day he found himself at Luffenholdtz Beach, AKA Loosenedholds, starring up at a crumbly fifty foot sandstone tower. A small crowd had gathered to watch Bob attempt the first ascent he later named Back Door Man. This little beach is a beautiful place, if you ignore the rock quality.
BC was apparently able to, and he set out in the tradest of style, ground up with a hand drill, bolting from hooks and stances. Ten feet up he placed two hooks in opposition and began to place a bolt. 40 minutes later one of the hooks popped, swinging him out and pitching him off. The ground was ten feet away, but the “bummer” was a projecting rock six feet down.
He bounced off this on his way to the deck, shattering his ankle. He escaped further mangling only by landing in the only sandy patch available. Assisted by his belayer, Mike Atkins, he made his way along the beach and up 100 steps to the car (Bob says he has counted them). The fall and the small crowd made for a story that for a while became a local legend. By the time I had heard it fourth or fifth hand, BC had broke both his ankles and crawled out on hands and knees. I haven’t gone back and counted the steps.
After that Bob bolted mostly with a top rope. He felt this allowed a stance to be found, and allowed the most solid holds and sequences to be used. He tried to estimate the number of routes he has contributed, but I couldn’t get a figure out of him. He didn’t just bolt, though. A crack, let alone a good crack, is near impossible to find around here. But BC found a few, and even ended up using gear on at least one lead that he had been told could only be led using bolts.
These times were special to him, since he loves to trad climb when traveling. Joshua Tree, at the far end of the state, is one of his favorite haunts. Each New Years for many seasons, BC and cohorts would haul a full keg of Humboldt County micro brew to the top of Intersection Rock in Hidden Valley Campground. It was the place to party in the new year.
Bob finished his Industrial Technology degree. He could conceivably live near any climbing area he wants, yet still comes back to Humboldt. In the past few years he has taken up an additional hobby, Kinetic Sculptures. An example of why some people love it here, kinetic sculptures are human powered works of art that race each other “For The Glory” each year in Humboldt County. The pageantry is extravagant and the sculptures must pedal over land, across the bay, and through sandy beaches. The race lasts three days and is truly both glorious and absurd. It cannot be explained without experiencing it.
BC doesn’t give our rock any slack. He calls much of it choss, and considers it mostly practice for the Sierras or J-Tree. He states that “anyone who drives a long ways to climb and play on this rock is not crazy, but I would say stupid”. He’s a local, though, you can tell by the stories he tells. He’s climbing in most of them, but the things he emphasizes have little to do with the rock. He speaks of the seal he saw catch a salmon in the surf at Lost Rocks, and the one whose carcass he watched whither over the course of many months and trips to Luffentholdz. He mentions whales spotted off the shore of Wedding Rock, and redwoods on approach hikes. He’s here for the spiritual thing this place gives you,
including the stone.
You don’t live in Humboldt because you like the rock quality. You live here for the whole natural package. You usually don’t live here to get rich, either. The economy is thin and easy careers are only a plane flight away in the cities. Bob noted to me how the lifespan of a typical local climber is five to six years, enough time to finish school, maybe try and stick around, and then leave. If you stay here it’s because you love to live here. BC works as a welder / fabricator at Mad River, a local microbrewery. He hasn’t owned a car in six years. He lives simply.
Bob Crowell is one climber in a line of activists and first ascentionists who have stumbled onto this mysterious coast. There were others before him who have faded back into the fog, and today a few dedicated souls continue the exploration of possibilities. This part of the country will never be a Mecca for Joe Blow Climber. But for a few misfits, dreamers and other open minded people it will continue to be both a haven and an escape. This is a place that demands to be met on its own terms and enjoyed for all of its assets. “Locals” may come and go, but many of them won’t be able to stay away forever.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
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This thread was misspelled (sp?) Humbolt.
I asked the site administrator to change to the proper spelling HumbolDt. maybe this will make it easier to search and find.
Post on!
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Somewhere I have a box stuffed with photos including some on the Head but all I can find are these two fairly crappy photos.
Here's me aiding the crack on the cliff just North of Wedding Rock. Is this the Coastline crack? 1979 I think. It was freed soon after at least on TR. I remember taking some wild swings trying to free it.
Same year just north of Moonstone. Aiding up a bolt ladder ( I think it was 5.9 free)on a small pinnacle we called Local Pinnacle.
I have lots of great memories of Humboldt climbing and the climbers.
Hey Jeff if you read this send me an email. Wayne and I were terying to locate you a while back and couldn't. Maybe he's connected since then.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2010 - 01:00am PT
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Somewhere I have a box stuffed with photos including some on the Head but all I can find are these two fairly crappy photos.
Great! I have been trying to gather any info. about climbers in humboldt in the past. But this is very hard to do. There is a file in the Humboldt room at he the library at HSU for local climbing source info. Not a lot in it though. Perhaps this is a place where an archive may be put together so the new generations of students / climbers can find out what the heck went down there.
My generation stared at the rotten overhang at Pat's Point. We wanted to free climb, not aid, so it looked loose and scary to us. Never gets done anymore. If more info. and a legend grew around it, it would likly see an aid revival. WHo knows.
More info please?
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Dec 12, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
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Seen this before?
Who is the guy bouldering? MANY of you know him but not from Humboldt.
And a tougher one - who's the guy looking down (I've no idea!)
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senibar
climber
Bend, or
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Dec 26, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
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Hey Paul,
How goes it? This is Daniel, Humboldt '97-'00 ish.
I just saw a trailer from some new Northern California climbing video on 8a.nu. They are climbing on that big prow up at lost rocks and are claiming a FA, I could have sworn you had removable-bolted and climbed that a decade ago. Am I dreaming?
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senibar
climber
Bend, or
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Dec 26, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
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P.S. Jesus Christ, just saw your photos, that sucks.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2010 - 03:30am PT
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Hey Paul,
How goes it? This is Daniel, Humboldt '97-'00 ish.
I just saw a trailer from some new Northern California climbing video on 8a.nu. They are climbing on that big prow up at lost rocks and are claiming a FA, I could have sworn you had removable-bolted and climbed that a decade ago. Am I dreaming?
Hi Daniel!
I did indeed put up a route called "The Vanishing Line" on that fomation at Lost Rocks using Climb Tech's Removable Bolts.
Chris L. Put up a route on the harder side of the arete, although, in the vid, it looks like he climbs some on "my" side of the arete. No big deal. Chris used Fixe (?) removable bolts, which are like standard bolts, more or less. He took them out after a few months.
The hype (SPRAY) was a little fudged about "finding " what he was looking for, like no one had ever seen or climbed on the formation before. I wrote a reply about that which got published in Urban Climber, I think.
That's Publicity vs. Reality. Makes a cooler tag line.
Both routes are great. We tried to get the side Chris did long before him, but were not good enough to send at the time. (The bolts he clips on top were placed by me, replacing even older bolts that had been chopped.)
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Vgavinator
Social climber
Ladera Ranch, CA
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Feb 10, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
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I just scanned some old slides and thought i might post a couple
Another
and last
Hi Darryl I will get in touch with you.
Jeff
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goldencat
Trad climber
Las Cruces, New Mexico
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Apr 21, 2011 - 07:25pm PT
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Thanks for posting the article about Bob Crowell. I knew him well 20 years ago. I've often wondered what happened to him. I met him climbing in the Bay Area at Goat Rock. I visited Humbolt County many times. I was at one of those Joshua Tree New Year's Eves. I'll post a few photos from a trip to Smith Rocks in 1990, Bob Crowell, Bob Nolen and Terry Lyle.
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Nolen
Social climber
Bakersfield, CA
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Jun 22, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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Love the photos, that was soooo long ago. Back in the days when drinking and climbing was the norm.
Bob Crowell is doing well, climbing more rocks with his truck than with his hands these days.
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Big Daddy B.C.
Trad climber
Palo Alto, Ca.
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RIGHT ON. Thanks Chris. Paul tell me whats up. The stuff all of you guys posted is so cool. The Smith rock pics where taken by a great woman and I thank you!!! I have to walk with a cane now. The neck has got a plastic vertbre and two plastic cushins with a titanium plate over the front. I still keep climbing ROCKS. Rock crawlin on the rubicon trail in my tricked out toyota 4x4. Live in Truckee Ca. Lots of snow this year so wheelin is tougher this year. How is Paul H.
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goldencat
Trad climber
Las Cruces, New Mexico
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Hey Bob and Bob! Glad you both found the photos and are still alive and kicking. That WAS such a loooooooong time ago to be sure. Good times.
B.C. - wow, sorry to hear about the neck. Glad you are still out there crawling over rocks though. You ever keep in touch with Troy?
I've been back in southern New Mexico for about eight years now. Haven't climbed in a very long time, but still get the itch to every now and then.
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His dudeness
Boulder climber
San Jose Ca
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Paul:
I was in Humboldt from 03-05 doing the college thing at HSU. While I was never a great climber or boulderer I still enjoyed trolling around the beaches for anything I could grip. I do vividly remember the day I met you, you had just had some surgery to remove lymph nodes and were recovering. I saw you playing a drum on top of one of the boulders at Moonstone as I was out there for the afternoon and ended up chatting with you for a good while as you watched me painfully creep through problems that you probably had no trouble with.
I loved my time up there and dug the fact that there were amazing climbers who weren't amazing a$$holes. The relative solitude of the climbing was also incredible, especially on those empty days at Lost Rocks. Even though I'm in San Jose now I still try to make it up for a few days a year. I haven't climbed in a long time, most of the routes here aren't too inspiring and it's a 45 minute drive to get to them. But whenever I do make it up into the triangle I bring my shoes and a chalk bag.
-Ian
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 06:25pm PT
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I remember that day, Ian. Nice to hear from you. The cancer came back. Oh, well...
-Paul
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His dudeness
Boulder climber
San Jose Ca
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Sorry to hear about that Paul. Hopefully you'll be able to eradicate it once and for all.
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Rockmon
Trad climber
Arcata, CA
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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RIP Paul. I didn't get to know Paul Humphrey well, but I knew him enough to appreciate the force of nature that he was in our climbing community in northern California. He has definitely left his mark. One of the first times I met him I had just groveled up a route he had set with Cedar Wright at one of our local crags, Castle Rock, called Buck Naked (5.12b) because him and Cedar allegedly got the FA while, well, naked. The climb is a long sustained pump sesh up sheer limestone with maybe one hold big enough to shake out on. Paul walks up, asks us what we thought of the route, then asks if we would mind giving him a catch on TR. Almost sheepishly he explains he doesn't want to lead it as he hasn't climbed in 3 months due to a broken back (he was notoriously injury prone, perhaps as a result of pushing his climbing beyond the realm that most of us feel comfortable). Somehow I realize this is someone who might take offense if I suggested that maybe he would want to warm up on something easier coming out of a long recovery like that. I figured this man knew his business. And he climbed the thing. I mean, the crux took him a few tries, but he climbed it. Man I was impressed. I have climbed in Humboldt for 7 years now, and am always impressed by the routes he has pioneered. It takes a special character to establish routes up here. You have to be willing to push your comfort zone, to get dirty, wet, and scared. I think Paul thrived in this. Thank you Paul.
Robin
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