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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 16, 2010 - 04:16am PT
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I just read in Roper's green guide...
The approach involves an elevation gain of about 4000 feet.
Good grief. It's any wonder that today I fell asleep for the 2nd time in the daylight hours. My body is wrecked. Dave's is too.
How did we do it, I ask myself without ego, just sheer wonderment that the body can go where the mind wills itself?
A couple moderate climbers beat the odds. It's not that we did it in any great style, but on something with this kind of, um, let's call them "logistics" it is a wonder we made it back at all.
Let me back up and then I'll get to the objective hazards part, though I will say at the outset that I used to think that Tahquitz kept the tourist climbers at bay with it's approach. I now have a new definition of approach.
Back to backing up... this all started with an email from Brutus 5/19/2009...
Munge:
Dave Daly and I have a weekend set aside for the Regular route on Castle Rock Spire:
Friday 12 June (drive) Saturday 13 June (hike in) Sunday 14 June (climb) and Monday 15 June (Hike out and drive home)
Interested in joining us?
Brutus
I was psyched to have been asked. And I had originally seen this formation from a top Moro Rock when I was a teenager. I asked myself then: how do you get over there? Those are really big!
But later as I matured in my climbing I learned about the issues with getting up there. In particular, the SEKI guidebook would scare anyone off.
The approach to Castle Rocks has been said to be the most difficult part of climbing at the Castles...no maintained trail...One party made three attempts before actually reaching the base...five miles...gully below the spire is steep and loose...4,000-foot elevation gain...poison oak and ticks...
And Summit Post just reinforces this notion...
The Legendary Approach
Arguably the hardest peak in the High Sierra, Castle Rock Spire goes free at IV 5.11 by its EASIEST route
Consequently it was with some trepidation that I tried to commit to going, but failed miserably before I had even left the comfort of my easy chair. I replied to Brutus...
Hey guys,
I might be able to swing a couple days off, but won’t know til practically before that weekend in June. CRS would be awesome so yeah, I’d be interested, but how in the hell do you get to the base? Have you guys already recon’d?
Is odd numbers going to slow the process too much? I’ll be in the Valley all next week, then back in the office, at which point I can test the waters. Given that I will have just come back from a week off, not sure I swing it now that I think about it.
Better write me off so you can get clear on planning, but thx much for the invite!!
Thx,
Rob
Mind you I had asked about the recon before remembering that Brutus had established lines back there.
He replies...
Reconned it?
I guess. But not for a few years now.
Uhh... Munge...
I've put up two FAs on the Spire... Spike Hairdoo (IV 5.10 A3) and Cinco de Mayo (V 5.10d C2)
One of 'em during the first winter ascent of the peak.
But, come to think of it, I still get lost going in there, so that was a pretty perceptive question after all.
We'll keep shopping for a third member, then, but keep you in mind if we strike out.
For the regular route, 3 is reasonable, especially with the "improved" descent rap route Coomer and I established down Spike Hairdoo. (3 raps vs. 9-10 for the regular route with rope-eating flakes as an added bonus)
Brutus
Sadly I would never hear Brutus and Dave's intended trip and trip report.
Dave,
Don’t worry about calling. I saw the post. I couldn’t read the whole thing I started to tear up. Started to call Em and teared up. And that after an entire day of trying to rationalize the call I got from Salad that it had happened.
I’ll call you later when it’s not so fresh in my mind.
I’m so sorry. Take care bro.
I miss you Brutus
Munge
Rob
Brutus died en route to this climb. He was to meet up with Dave. An unfulfilled invite. An unfulfilled approach. An unfulfilled ascent. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=876255 An unfulfilled trip report.
I think that is what cemented hanging with Dave and scheming to get back on this climb. To not forget, but to close a chapter. The set things even. To round out the sharp edge. Well, maybe I better say it like Brutus might... at least, duct tape that edge a little so we don't get a core shot on the cord of life.
Consequently, we made plans and did a recon of the approach. Mapping the "trail" with cairns and some hiker tape to, hopefully, prevent getting lost. But we barely saw the Spire. It rained and hailed on us as we got to the main gully and did a gear cache of tequila, beer, and ice gear. It was spooky. The signs started to point to not such a smart idea.
Vile ticks...
Very active bears with tracks from the same day...
But also a wild beauty. A sense of adventure and complete lack of knowing if we would ever touch that lofty summit.
Only real climbers had been up there before us. The first ascent by Bill Long, Allen Steck, Jim Wilson, Will Siri, and Philip Bettler in 1950 was preceded by several attempts in the prior three years. In fact, we actually came across a summit register on the Gendarme in the notch that had a date of 1948, but the names and writing were mostly illegible with the passage of time.
A list of climbers attempts and ascents is being collated these days, a copy of which was put in the new summit register that was provided to us. Not too many take two days to do an ascent. Ours did. The definition of a valid Epic tale in my opinion. But most certainly not the best possible style. http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1066638/Castle-Rock-Spire-with-Roper-and-Powell-1962 Others have gone before[/url] and we stand on their shoulders to make the next reaches of our own. Most recently Bill Sherman and Jordan Ramey made a valant effort and even left us a gift that they couldn't use when http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1188447/Yet-another-Castle-Rock-Spire-Attempt Bill broke his leg after a boulder rolled onto it [/url] in the main gully a weekend ago.
The SEKI guidebook sums it all up as to why these relatively few individuals go to the "still seldom-visited" summit...
Few summits have comparable exposure and airiness-- it is places such as this that give rock climbing meaning.
So it was that Dave and I went back up after our recon for more suffering. On the drive there, the comparison of my skills to our objective was well captured...
But Dave had scoped the approach Thursday and found a mostly PO free initial gain to the ridge. Which there is still PO up high, but this was a huge help. Bunny suits, now de rigueur, were still used. Temps were a bit warmer, the grass a bit drier, but still very reasonable. The, yet to come, debilitating heat wouldn't hit us til we tried to leave.
It took most of the day Friday starting around 7am to gain the gear cache, and ascend the final forest slopes to the boulder campsite, where three tiers of bivi shelves make for comfortable accomodations.
That night, calories were needed. And also some festivity to break the somber mood brought on by the rain.
http://www.vimeo.com/12606827]Gatorita quick batch was made and laughs and sleep came early despite the nagging mosquitos...
Saturday morning we got stuff together and hit the snow tongue in the gully. This gully rises 1000 feet, so not only did we do a rock climb, we also did a snow climb. Maybe it should be labelled a Grade V? ;)
Dave starting out from just below boulder camp...
Munge up higher in the gully...
This was my first time doing such a long snow climb without ropes. Eye opening. But the temps were ok. The sounds coming from the gully the prior night were minimal and the snow bridges seemed in good shape. This one here that allowed us to get around huge boulder chokes ended up being gone by Sunday afternoon when we came down. It was all good. We had our Hawaiian shirts of invincibility on, so we couldn't get hurt, right?
Soon we ended up taking off our (in my case borrowed) crampons in exchange for rock shoes to do the fourth class up to the notch on the South side. The original line cuts across the face using the ledge system in the middle of the pic, and then goes up a wide crack to the back of the black tower seen on the skyline.
We decided to start on the lower horizontal seam that leads to the ledge system, rather than go up the "5.5 offwidth" show on the topo Brutus had sketched that resides on Summit Post...
This "4th class" traverse is a serious undertaking, with exposed downclimbing to reach the 2nd belay. Protecting the follower on stuff like this is mandatory, or the swing into the dihedral if one were to fall would be deadly given how far from a rescue one is.
The 2nd "4th class" pitch leading down to the base of the wide crack...
At the end of the belay Dave got swarmed by biting red ants. With our hesitation on the 4th sections, the slow snow gully, and redoing the belay away from the red ants, we definitely were late in the day, but what is your option?
It was during this time that the storm clouds built up. Skies were dark. I was ready to pack it up. You don't want to bother being on top of this thing in a storm. It's a lightning rod for sure. We decided that at a minimum we had to get behind the tower and see what we couldn't see.
I got the next pitch and managed to avoid a short offwidth section (as OW is still a struggle for me despite some practice in recent years). Fortunately, the face to climber's right had some sporadic gear on otherwise thoroughly enjoyable climbing. Maybe 5.7ish til I stepped back left into the main chimney 20' or so below the stacked blocks nearly dislodging a loose block onto Dave...
Dave following on this pitch...
The skies started to open blue just a tiniest bit that made the difference in going up
or behind really and then down for a full 100' pitch if truth be told. The topo mentions moving the belay. Not like Royal Arches 'move belay' but more like downclimb blocks and corner.
This puts you at the base of the oft aided corner...
Really nice colors. Dave lead this one. I followed by yarding on gear and yelling "take" quite a bit, but I made pretty good work of it. Stepping right from the roof, instead of going left of it using a bolt. This puts you right below a free move over a roof on the next pitch if you belay where we did.
I got the next one, pitch 4, where it was easier for me to aid the moves than free through it. By the time I reach the belay in this pic, you can see it is late and we are tired...
The climbing is really good on this pitch, unlike much of the route. Dave did it free following. Features and the crack on the left higher make for kewl climbing. Other pitches have bushes and looseness that detract somewhat from the climb. Obviously not enough to turn us back. The topo is off a bit in the 4 and 5 pitch mark. I think I belayed just below the 5th belay in an alcove. There is no continuous chimney here and the pitch length would be off a bit. Looking up from this belay
Golden light starting to bathe the upper part of the Fin.
oh sh#t, guess we're climbing in the dark.
At this point, we are both out of water. With a long dry night in front of us. It's not critical at this point. Once down after a couple quick pitches we can get snow in the gully. Well, when dehydrated performance degradation happens, things grind to a halt. Misery creeps up your throat as a cough that doesn't quite clear. The only reason more people don't die from dehydration is that it take a while.
We were at a point that we had to choose either C1 aid or 5.8 face out around the corner, or just stay where we are. The topo says "good ledge" above. Each of us envisioning a shelf we can sit on.
What to do? One way is faster, but one is safer. I've done aid under cover of darkness. You only need to see the next three feet for aid, so after much gnashing of teeth, I set out on a relatively straightforward C1 crack really wishing I had some water. The crack is dirty and in spots bushy. I taste earth each time I dig out a placement. Try to spit it out only to realize the throat is dry and nothing is expelled. Choking it down I move on to the next placement.
Fortunately for us, we came prepared somewhat. Dave wanted to toast Brutus at the top, so we brought a Sapporo gold reserve.
Completely delish. Savoring each slurp and saving some for the summit and the raps.
At this point we settled in for a long night 1am to 5am with cramped toes, hanging in our harness trying not to kick each other's toes as we shift weight. I brought a space blanket. A lesson from Brutus and Em and others, and we wrapped ourselves in mylar trying to stay warm now that the climbing movement had ended. At some point I convince Dave to start racking gear since he was shivering. I worry something might get dropped, but he manages fine. As the sun's rays warm us, we know we're going to be fine.
Dave gets the next dirty pitch in the morning and is completely knackered on energy. We chomped a couple choco covered espresso beans as pretty much the last of the food, but we're feeling it. Yet, I'm still able to free the 10a crack on follow.
One more short pitch to the summit.
The original register was nasty. A 2009 sample entry with mold dollops...
The panties are still there. A funny reflection of climbers. We take our time with a whole day ahead of us to get down now, only thirst and tiredness wanting to get us down. We make our entries in the new summit register, fly a prayer flag from the summit for Brutus.
After drinking our own urine we continue...
ok, just Sapporo, not urine. But the color is spot on.
The last thing to do to get down before the raps is to traverse this amazing knife ridge
From there a downclimb to the block belay on Spike Hairdoo, backed up by a bolt with tat, lets you down in two raps.
Back at the notch, we slurp snow to rehydrate and eat choco covered espresso beans. Sit around enjoying the location and at some point pull the ropes (thankfully no real snags on the gendarme). We descend the real 4th class back to our cramps and axes [thx to Mucci for the cramps edit], and begin a series of rappels. I'm too tired to descend a snow slope by step kicking all the way down. We leave some stoppers to bail off of a couple times. And after a grueling lengthy set of raps, we finally hit camp again. Super tired, but absolutely hungry, we make a meal and top it off with the remaining Gatoritas... This time with snow!!
First, add tequila while sipping your beer chaser...
Then, add ice from snow gully...
Gatorade lemon lime flavored powder...
Shake it like you own it...
check consistency, add lime salt to rim of nalgene...
another sleepness night puts me with sore hips. The thermarest popped a leak on the first night. So that really puts me a three nights with no sleep. But the descent won't walk itself out.
We say goodbye...
Avail ourselves of today's gift sitting in the creek...
[thx to Bill Sherman and Jordan Ramey for that gift! edit]
and take more time than we should given what temps will unfold later on...
bright and sunny, we scorch on the way down and get lost on the wrong ridgeline...
I know it was hot, because on the way back thru the Central Valley, at 8:30 at night it is still 84 degrees...
That's like Oakdale hot!
I'm probably forgetting a ton of detail, and I'm still working on the topo and beta updates for Summit Post with Dave.
Hopefully, you get a feel for the spirit of adventure. The sheer unknowning and logistical obstacles involved make it improbable. But we perserved in spite of the obstacles, running out of water, sleeping in our harnesses hanging off a 1 x 2 ledge a massive snow gully, bears, ticks, rattler terrain, mosquitos, red ants, each other, and 4,000' of elevation gain inside a few miles. I personally put this trip up there with an ascent of El Cap. There is no finer summit spire that I have done.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 16, 2010 - 06:54am PT
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Feckin' AAAAAAA!!
What a great TR, thanks for taking us along.
Supertopo boys make good!
I'm stoked for you.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 16, 2010 - 09:41am PT
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Sweeeeet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Congrats, nice job!
Those flowers are purty.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Jun 16, 2010 - 09:48am PT
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AWESOME!!!!!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 16, 2010 - 10:00am PT
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Great trip report!
What an adventure.
Climb on!
Z
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jun 16, 2010 - 10:08am PT
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One hellava trip report. Thanks for taking us along. I was gripped!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 10:12am PT
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Way to suffer. Brutus would be proud.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jun 16, 2010 - 10:13am PT
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BRAVO!!!
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bearbnz
Trad climber
East Side, California
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Jun 16, 2010 - 10:17am PT
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Amazing! What a great adventure and a very cool rememberance of your lost friend. Great job Dave and Rob.
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Dave Johnson
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 10:18am PT
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Epic tale, boys. Your friend would be proud.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 16, 2010 - 10:31am PT
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WOW! An unplanned open bivy and all. You cats rock!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 16, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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Too much fun-nice timing and I am glad you lucked out with the PO this trip.
cheers
Guido
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jun 16, 2010 - 11:11am PT
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Way to git out there and git sum!
You fellas deserve a couple of the CRS shirts now. Talk to ihateplastic.
Way to persevere and suffer a bit for it. Great report.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 11:56am PT
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oh, yeah, forgot to mention that part. I ordered some shirts already. :)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
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that's a trip report! great job!
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
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Great spirit you guys! Way to stick w/it and get `er done! Hate to admit it but I've got a hankerin' for a gatorita! =)
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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PO == ??
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:48pm PT
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way to go boys!!!
great report, great job.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
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Thanks, fellas - a great report on a thoughtful climb.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
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Wow! what an adventure! Thanks for documenting it and for finding such a wonderful way to honor Brutus.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Jun 16, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
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That place is magic. Whoa.
"Kewl", as Munge would say. ;-)
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jun 16, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
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MUNGE- you are my friggen hero man. Thanks for keeping the spirit of adventure alive!!!!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 16, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
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OHH YEAAAAHHH!!!!
WHOOOP!!!!
Munge- I know how hard you trained for this, a lofty goal with a purpose other than just another tick in the book.
You and Mooch did Brutus right on this one.
Very proud of both of you for hanging in there, the spirit was with you both.
Way to capture the essence of the whole "Expedition"!
You guys ROCK!
Mucci
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
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Great effort.
Thanks for getting it done, for the great documentation (including detailed beverage breakdown),
and for keeping Brutus' spirit fresh.
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Jun 16, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
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Inspirational.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jun 16, 2010 - 02:05pm PT
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Great TR.
You guys actually make it look kinda easy! :)
So awesome you did it for Brutus too.
Amazing summit for a big hunk of choss.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 02:19pm PT
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Nate, it was not easy. Definitely.
When you get hungry and dehydrated, it's easy to get irritated, tired and just plain fed up/done/had enough/breaking point. More than once the evil brush was victim to my abuse by my Marginal Equipment adjustable walking staff.
Still no PO as of this morning. milagros!
thx all
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Jun 16, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
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Excellent work! I am so happy for you! Did you say "hi" to Bill's rock! I hope you gave it a kick for me.
:)AFS
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
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avoided that rock and the lower gully like it full of danger! it was! :)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
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Good stuff - thanks for sharing!
33rd known ascent in 60 years?
Here's a new version of the "armchair register":
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
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Larry: PO = poison oak
Very proud send. Nearly brought a tear to my eye reading about your ascent. I can definitely relate with quite a bit of that and now I just want to get up there and get this thing done even moreso now.
As was mentioned before, this is the true meaning of climbing. It's not about the style or the grades. It's about the experience, the setting, and the comraderie.
When ya'll recover somewhat, let me know and Jordan and I can make a trip down to share some beers (or Gatorita's) and swap some stories.
Bill
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jun 16, 2010 - 03:09pm PT
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Well done lads!
A nice trip report & a fitting tribute to Brutus' memory.
Too bad the summit register is getting damaged by mold. I recall a decent container being up on top for the register. Is that gone now?
Nice photos BTW!
Once again, good job!
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Bertrand
Trad climber
SF
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Jun 16, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
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Best TR ever. Clint, thanks for the log.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jun 16, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
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awesome.
that' looks like a lot of frickin work. killer ridge shot.
tx
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Jun 16, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
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your actions honor the living spirit.
brutus is smiling somewhere ...
with thanks for a TR beyond words
em
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 03:57pm PT
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Now that is awesome! Great job guys! Glad you found the Drool, gave Bruce a fitting tribute, avoided the bears and snakes, replaced the register, and had an amazing adventure!
Edit to add: I hadn't finished reading the whole TR yet... just finished. That is truly an epic embodiment of what climbing is... Perseverance in the facing of overwhelming adversity... an unplanned bivy on route, those dang biting ants, dehydration! The whole thing just rings of adventure... and you didn't have to fly halfway around the world to find it, but in our very own "backyard"!
As Bill said, we'll have to catch up sometime for sure and trade approach horror stories! Words can't express how amazing it is up there!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
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Mooch must be working. He's got photos and details I'm sure I forgot.
But the traverse was thought that it might be quicker with lots of 4th class. It wasn't. oh well. I think I remember Alois posting up that the direct was definitely the way to go. Not having done it, I can see that it would probably be the better way.
Which other plum? There are many back there.
Silver Lining inspires me, but have to finish some other objectives.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
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u guys are on for beers for sure.
maybe rally a bunch of Spire folks for a tall tales session. I would really dig it anyways.
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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edited my previous post.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 16, 2010 - 07:36pm PT
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Wow! Nice job guys. Talk about some adventure climbing, Holy Shit!!!
Awesome tribute to Brutus too. You guys rock!
I bet those Gatortinis went down sooooooo well after you got back to camp. Nice way to stay with it and not bail. Very proud!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 16, 2010 - 08:10pm PT
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Nice work. Mooch, Munge, and Brutus too.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 16, 2010 - 08:22pm PT
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Too cool;....always wanted to climb that spire...you guys are an inspiration.....way to go!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Jun 16, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
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That was an awesome TR. I could feel the suffering right along with you!
Nice work!
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Jun 16, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
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Way to go guys!!
That one long shot really shows how far back ya got to go.
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JMC
climber
oilfields of Sumatra
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Jun 16, 2010 - 10:29pm PT
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Friggin awesome!
So great, damn. Really makes me want to slit my wrists and/or quit my job and leave the swamplands of Houston. Thanks Munge, hope any lingering poison oak hasn't creeped up on you.
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Ben Rumsen
Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
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Jun 17, 2010 - 01:19am PT
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Excellent trip report and a great climb you two !!
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D H
Trad climber
Exeter CA.
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Jun 17, 2010 - 01:31am PT
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I lift a glass and toast the victorious, well done men!.
This brings to mind a well known speech from Shakespeare’s Henry V—I’m sure you have heard it before.
Whoever does not have the stomach for this fight, let him depart. Give him money to speed his departure since we wish not to die in that man’s company. Whoever lives past today and comes home safely will rouse himself every year on this day, show his neighbor his scars, and tell embellished stories of all their great feats of battle. These stories he will teach his son and from this day until the end of the world we shall be remembered. We few, we happy few, we band of brothers; for whoever has shed his blood with me shall be my brother. And those men afraid to go will think themselves lesser men as they hear of how we fought and died together.
Very much enjoyed your TR .Congratulations.
DH
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jun 17, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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This is one of the all time best TR's on the taco thus far.
Great job guys. This is what climbings all about. You two are solid to the core!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2010 - 02:33am PT
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DH,
The Shakespeare quote may be too much for our efforts, and reserved for those that go in harms way for others, rather than self, but the thought is still well appreciated none the less.
I recorded some comments to myself that I wasn't going to post originally, but just my tone you can tell I'm in the sh#t, but still got the umpf to finish it.
http://www.vimeo.com/12635784
apologies for the lack of clarity in the vid, I was trying to say "C1" and that I lead it and Dave cleaned. It sounds weird.
thx guys
It's gotta be the shirts that got us thru...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2010 - 02:35am PT
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or maybe some of us aren't altogether stable...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2010 - 02:41am PT
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oh and a little bonus for anyone still tracking on this thread...
featured, no?
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 17, 2010 - 05:00am PT
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Tis true......been busy with work and preparing for the next round of torture (2010 Death Ride, out of Markleeville on July 10).
Wow! Nice TR Mungie! Did 'er justice. Frickin' hillarious when you mentioned the 'bush beating'! How many times did we curse buck brush, PO and slippery grassy slopes?!? I suppose a few gaps could be filled in but I am limited on this end, like leaving my camera at the "secret" camp (big doofus!) before heading up to the base of the route. Been wantin to post up what photos I do have but its been slow getting to that since I've been decontaminating my gear and finding a new home for a stow away mouse I found in my gear when I unpacked. Little guy wanted to play on my lap after I found him. Today's gift in disguise?? Brutus?? ;)
I promise to unload the photos that I have and share some thoughts from this amazing adventure 2moro. But before I head off to slumberland, I just want to thank Rob for sharing some Brutus moments with me (like the "Eat this!" Brutus/Em moment)and the vision to find Shangri La. Treasures....all of 'em. But most of all, I wanna thank Munge for sharing this adventure with me in the most intimate way climbers know best (Adventure = cursing at still objects, tantrums, insightful moments brought on by Gatorita, the secret String Cheese recipe and the Shave Ice teasers we were pretending to have vice our dirty snow escapades.
Till 2moro....
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jun 17, 2010 - 09:55am PT
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Great TR, you guys - and I really liked the tributes to Brutus.
Way to tough it out and get through the climb.
Erik
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:31am PT
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So glad you guys were able to experience this. Some of the best memories I have are from the Fin and the CRS. Thanks too for mentioning Bruce, he was such a force and such a good people. Again, congrats and continuing good climbing to you both.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 17, 2010 - 11:34am PT
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8 parts climbing, 8 parts beverage. Monster hike, so-so climbing, but a spiritual journey for sure.
Congrats Munge! Brutus is smiling...
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 17, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
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I wouldn't say "so-so climbing" until you've had a chance to get out there and experience it yourself. Granted, some of cracks were filled with dirt and vegatation it surely telegraphed the fact that this beauty rarely gets done. Now, if The Fin and CRS were a quick 30 minute hike from the trailhead, folks would be all over it!
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Pat Brennan
Trad climber
Lake Arrowhead, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
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Now that's a story, good on you guys to make it to the summit. I thought of CRS is one of my top climbs in the Sierra's.
'LETS GO CLIMBING'
Pat
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2010 - 09:08pm PT
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Pat!
Hell yeah buddy!
Let's go climbing.
Can we lock ya down for that trip in September to a certain golden featured dome?
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:15pm PT
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Libation Preparation
Chainmail? Plated Armor?.........Nope, Ivy Block!!
The Weapons Of The Trade
Which One Will The Bears Enjoy The Most???
Does This Tyvek Suit Make Me Look Fat? And Where's My Feather Boa For The Summit Photo Shoot?
Well?? We're Waiting!
Junior Tick Patrol Man 1st Class
Mooch Sobering Up To A LOOOOONG Approach Ahead
Had Enough Yet Munge?
Follow The Hellah Tick Road, Follow The Hellah Tick Road
Getting Steeper...
Moro Rock From The "Which One?" Ridge
C'Mon People....The Photo Speaks For Itself!
The Secret Camp Utility Food Hanger Uppy Thingy (courtesy of Alois Smrz)
Relics Of The Past
Sorry Bill.......I Couldn't Help Myself With This One :)
"Would You Like Some Gatorita, My Senorita??
Just Righhhhhht
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:29pm PT
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Uh....Hmmmm. Mooch?
Buncha X's is all I get.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
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Photo tags corrected. Enjoy.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:56pm PT
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Digging on the "Mooch on the Scene".
Gracias, Bro.
DUDE!!!!! Those are Sweet!
They add to the savor, in a delightful manner.
Oh, yeah.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 17, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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ha ha, Munge, you look like a bad@$$ Papa Smurf!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jun 18, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
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Hey fellas, GREAT JOB on the mission.
Thanks for the trip report and ensuing antics.
You guys are classic.
Well done!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2010 - 01:15am PT
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LOL!!! those latest pics rock the house! before and after tequila shots, definitely classics! burn me a disc hombre!
btw, I have some of your small cams.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jun 19, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
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Just finally got to read this trip report after spending the last week working in Cedar Grove...........Moist Excellance Mooch and Munge!!!!!!! I just knew you guys would get er done and under lots of pressure too! I'm glad it all turned out well and with safe returns. Lakers in Six......Castle Rock Spire in Three!
Mooch called and left a message last nite, he said there were two " Major Climbing Dudes" that also climbed the spire the same time they did and summited! Wow.....I think he said there names were Dave and Rob. Good job everybody!
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Fletcher
Trad climber
not very much, recently.
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Jun 19, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
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Wow... One of the finest trip reports. As others have commented, you really capture the wildness of the place, the suffering, the joy, the humor, the adventure of the climb and the spirit of Brutus. What would Brutus do? Exactly what you guys did. This is the real deal... Forget the numbers, the tick lists, the egos... This trip gets at the heart of climbing in the wilds.
Thanks.
Eric
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 19, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
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great going you two,
that's adventure, it's what it's all about
grand indeed
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Jun 19, 2010 - 10:43pm PT
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Great job you two!!!
Thank You for sharing.
Steve
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Jun 21, 2010 - 10:10am PT
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Amazing TR!! A fitting tribute to your late, great friend Brutus. Those tyvek suits are HILARIOUS!
So, while reading this TR, your forced bivy account caused me to glance up at a BoW quote I have taped above my desk, which reads in relevant part:
" . . . seated on a narrow ledge beside your rope-mate with only the clothes on your back for shelter, shivering the night away, knowing that, sometime in a distant place you cannot now touch, the world will once again grow bright, and you will look out on the infant day with new eyes."
Amen.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 21, 2010 - 11:26am PT
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Les -
Thanks for putting that quote out there. Another one of Brutus' quotes was written on the suit of Munge's right arm....
"...one climb, one pitch, one move at a time."
And, to this date, Munge and Mooch do not have a stitch of PO. I'm pretty immune to the stuff. However, Munge simply looks at the stuff and he breaks out. So, at the risk of sounding prideful.......the rest of you who got it when you went up there to attempt the spire or Fin, you didn't do enough to take preventive measures. ;)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
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there's a secret path that only the Mooch Positioning System knows how to navigate. Avoids all PO. Make sure the MPS is fully watered, beered and fueled though for the return trip. :)
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 21, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
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I heard the FAA is trying out the new AMS-B* system (vice ADS-B).
God help 'em!
* Automatic Mooch Surveillance - Broadcast:
AMS-B relies on the satellite-based Mooch Positioning System to determine, say Munge's precise location from space. The "system" then converts the position into a digital code, which is combined with some other stuff and junk, such as the type of traveler (touron, climber trash, park tool etc), intended travel path, "tail" number, and whether they're climbing, descending or fleeing from the scene with tail between the legs. The digital code (and junk), containing all of this information, is updated several times a second and is broadcasted from a discrete frequency, called a datalink. The datalink provides Munge's wife as to his whereabouts.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
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LOL!
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Jun 21, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
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No offense taken guys. I'll have to dig out my SAR shirts as well.
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Jun 21, 2010 - 04:36pm PT
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WOW!!!!
superb post munge!!!
Mungeclimber - That is awesome you got to the top of that beast..
and thanks for the update to the summit post..
(that urine almost got me.. thinking you guys were in dire straights!!!)
cheers on that sendage!!!
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 21, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
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Awesome high-quality adventure and writeup and pics! Wonderful wonderful stuff! With the before and after drink pictures, I can almost taste it :)
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 22, 2010 - 02:10am PT
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June 13th 2010 marks the FA of Castle Rock Spire......
.....by use of Polynesian shirts.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 22, 2010 - 11:19am PT
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It will get filtered but what the heck, we're big boys now.
Munge and Mooch
"There are some Polynesian Girls Just Dying to Meet You"
"
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2010 - 01:28am PT
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Guido,
Your a gentleman and a scholar and a connoisseur of fast horses, good liquor and fine women.
IslandStylee,
M
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 03:37am PT
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Guido, if that was waiting for me on top of the Spire I would have dragged my a$$, broken ankle or not, up to the top!
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Jun 23, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
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Les -
Thanks for putting that quote out there. Another one of Brutus' quotes was written on the suit of Munge's right arm....
"...one climb, one pitch, one move at a time."
And, to this date, Munge and Mooch do not have a stitch of PO. I'm pretty immune to the stuff. However, Munge simply looks at the stuff and he breaks out. So, at the risk of sounding prideful.......the rest of you who got it when you went up there to attempt the spire or Fin, you didn't do enough to take preventive measures. ;)
I just sent a friend of mine off on a 3-month climbing road trip out west with these immortal words, which I recall were Brutus': "Watch the weather. Don't drive exhausted. Protect the belay."
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 27, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
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I found this article by geologist Walt Vennum in the June/July 1978 issue of Summit. Walt was one of Chuck Kroger's climbing partners and one of his major professors while at Stanford.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jun 27, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
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Thats really cool! Thanks for posting that Steve. Its amazing how things haven't changed much!
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 27, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
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Awesome! I wondered if it would be possible to descend all the way down to the Kaweah and wade across when it was low, picking up the good trail on the other side. Must not be that good if these two didn't come back that way.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
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thx Steve
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Captain...or Skully
climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 30, 2010 - 12:49am PT
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Sweet. TFPU,Bargainhunter.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 30, 2010 - 02:41am PT
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That's a nice view of some frozen ticks, Bargain, thanks!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2011 - 03:46pm PT
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no doubt. that's a cool web cam location. thx
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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no doubt. that's a cool web cam location. thx
Actually, wouldn't it be better positioned on the High Sierra Trail, near Panther Gap, pointed southest.......right into the gully between The Fin and Spire. Primo for determining when to blast that gully!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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you sir, are correct!
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Powder
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Dec 22, 2011 - 05:00am PT
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Brilliant!!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:48am PT
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bump
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2011 - 03:16am PT
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a def favorite TR
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Dec 27, 2011 - 03:40am PT
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Today's last image ...
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Dec 27, 2011 - 11:28am PT
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I am surprised I missed the TR. What a great story. TFPU!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2011 - 12:02am PT
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The next day it apparently snowed compared to Biotch's snag...
can't get enough spire pics
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Bump for springtime stoke. And Poison oak. And blood sucking ticks. And a proud summit.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Love spires great report.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Thanks for bumping this. One needs a little reminder now and then of the things one intends to get around to.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2015 - 02:52pm PT
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Fin is now on my mind.
Ticks are not.
:)
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Apr 15, 2015 - 06:16pm PT
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Lots of fun Munge. Funny how the suffering dulls with time. Get after the Fin!
lars
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 15, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
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Fin is now on my mind.
Ticks are not.
Yeah, there on your body!
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crankster
Trad climber
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Apr 15, 2015 - 08:08pm PT
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I itch just thinking about it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2015 - 09:24pm PT
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I think I'd come in from above next time.
Daveytree, LimpingCrab, Mooch?
Fin Du Fin, du Fin Du Monde?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 15, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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Upper approach 'till I die!!! Camping up behind the fin is just plain awesome. No PO, no ticks, no rattlers, no bush whacking, lots of tiring walking though...
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 15, 2015 - 10:20pm PT
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I've done the upper approach to the Fin summit. Certainly the better way to the Fin at least. I even carried a rope and rack out of there! ;)
Radish says that whole zone is cursed though.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Apr 16, 2015 - 01:34pm PT
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Noice! I forgot about this report.
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 16, 2015 - 11:07pm PT
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No problem dude! That's a hell of a hike. It's pretty bad once you drop into the dome creek drainage, but a really cool place to be. The middle fork was full of fog when i was up there, right up to the base of the castle rocks. It was surreal. I though about about trying to do some bolt replacement on the Fin, silver lining sounds awesome. I was always distracted by easier access fun though.
Glad your knee healed up. Nice TR.
I'm still working for the NPS, soon to be year round in South Dakota. Look me up if you want to climb in the other needles.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Apr 17, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
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Now I know what they mean by "bad ass".
You guys are ironmen!
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Apr 17, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
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Nice to see this here again! I love reading anything about the Castle's. I was just up at the end of the Paradise trail a couple of weeks ago. Its where the original Castle Rock trail started and its really gone now. No markers, no mound of rocks, nothing. If you just walk a few bushes in though there is the prominent in cut into the earth that goes on. The grass is already dry and brown and we saw a Rattler, a tick and LOTS of PO! But............its still the shortest way in!
Seemore....http://southernsierraclimber.blogspot.com/
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 17, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
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Good bump..... I think if one is going to do Bolt Replacement on the FIN....... Please reroute the rap off a bit, I think the 3rd rap down sets you up for a stuck cord, had this happen to my friends, they had to hand over hand up almost 100 feet.....scarry. If it was about 20 feet right you would be OK.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2015 - 06:30pm PT
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Guyman, like reroute all the stations 20' right?
That might arrange-able.
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| Messages 1 - 118 of total 118 in this topic |
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