Discussion Topic |
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LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2010 - 05:05pm PT
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Cracks are fun!
So....looking specifically:
California's best overhanging hand cracks (green camalot to yellow camalot size). Steep, roofs anything!
Let me know!
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Jun 14, 2010 - 05:08pm PT
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Separate Reality.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
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At least some hand sized portions:
O'Kelley's Crack
Wangerbanger
Haven't done them but they look sweet:
Tales of Power
Davey Jones Locker
Speed of Life
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Jun 14, 2010 - 05:31pm PT
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More Monkey than Funky
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Jun 14, 2010 - 05:34pm PT
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Morongo Man and More Monkey Than Funky in Joshua Tree are not to miss.
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Bertrand
Trad climber
SF
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Jun 14, 2010 - 05:51pm PT
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Sinbad-Herbert, Lovers Leap Lower Buttress.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 14, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
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You need to be thinking Utah. Overhanging green camalot cracks, be careful what you wish for.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
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The first 25' of the 5th pitch of the West Face of Rixon's is pretty darn cool!
Bruce
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
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Forgot about More Monkey. Definitely awesome.
Even that short roof on Rollerball (.10b) at Josh is really good value.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jun 14, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
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Awww Bruce.....funny you posted that as I was thinking the same thing! Rixon's, that .10 section is sweeeeeeet!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 14, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
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Clearly, as Donini sez, you need to look in the desert, but 'tales' is a sort of a preview.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
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Yos, Mery's tears area: Windfall p4. - exceptionally good and long pitch of overhanging wide hands.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 14, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
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Enduro Corner on Astroman and the last 11b pitch of The Rostrum come to mind, and the climbing before and after those pitches is rather good as well...
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jun 14, 2010 - 07:54pm PT
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Overdrive in Yosemite. A 2in 10ft roof at .11a or so the book says. Haven't climbed it yet.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 14, 2010 - 07:56pm PT
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King Cobra
High Life
Short Circuit
Planet Granite SF ;-)
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
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Sounds like I'd better dust off my ascenders....
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jun 14, 2010 - 08:35pm PT
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The Enema, Cookie
Karl's Overhang (and Gym), Donner
Star Wall Crack, surprisingly good hands with bad feet and vice versa (good feet bad crack), with lb crux.
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LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2010 - 09:47pm PT
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Alright!!!
Totally excited now!
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flakyfoont
Trad climber
carsoncity nv
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Jun 14, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
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memo from lloyd 5.10d tuolumne
do or fly 5.11 tuolumne
Both are kinda short but fun
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 10:04pm PT
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Post up a pic Chim Chim- sounds good.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 14, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
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Original Pitch 1 on the Vampire.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 12:26am PT
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While it is thin hands for many and only a bit overhanging, Five and Dime fits the bill as well.
Bruce
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
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Jun 15, 2010 - 12:37am PT
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desert gold
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 02:36am PT
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Anything 5.11 in the hand crack size should be overhanging:
111. Cosmic Messenger 5.11a *
115. Short but Thick 5.11a *
154. A la Moana 5.11a
1082. Slab Happy Pinnacle - Left 5.11a *
1194. Childhood's End 5.11a **
2291. South By Southwest 5.11a ***
2561. Windfall 5.11a **
141. Outta Hand 5.11b
236. The Enema 5.11b ***
379. My-Toe-Sis 5.11b *
511. Floating Lama 5.11c A1 *
772. Ribbon Candy 5.11c **
The 2 pitches above Camp 6 on the Nose have some good stuff,
also the main pitch on the Salathe' headwall.
Blues Riff in the Meadows, too. (Crux move is thin, but long steep hands after).
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Jun 15, 2010 - 02:52am PT
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Paisano Jamcrack.....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 15, 2010 - 10:43am PT
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Iv'e seen Enema Crack listed here twice- i did the first ascent and I wouldn't call it a hand crack. Everyone is scrambling to come up with some, said it once, I'll say it again, go to Utah.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jun 15, 2010 - 10:54am PT
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What choo thinking, Jim, fists? Although the technical fingery finish was probably the crucks for me due to pump and fumbling poor gear selection onsite, I remember reaching deep for meaty hand gams thug section before the sit. Quite lovely and steep but too brief...
One woman's fist, etc and so on...jmop
More stuff on Black Walls probably qualifies...first pitch of One Hand, Firecracker (kinda), Black September (kinda) and nasty 11a (white guide) Lightning Bolt roof, but that was fisty for me fer sure. There's also a foul looking overhanging suzuki route up there that looks hands, but I never tried it.
Further off the beaten path about "Natural High (blood in my chalkbag)" for the meatier hands but prolly fist...or even more obscure, "Baboon Safari", "just" across the stateline.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
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Kind of obscure, but the 6th (?) pitch of Ribbon Candy in the Ribbon Falls Area might be one of the best in the Valley. 5.11c. Perfect hands traversing a roof/overhang, finishing with straight up overhanging hands. A gem.
Greg
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
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Greg [G Murphy], could you tell more about overall route Ribbon Candy11c. Is other pitches can be well protected? your gear recommendation and decent options?
This is second time I've read that this is a hidden gem, thanks
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jun 15, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
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Uprising
Orangutan Arch
Childhoods End
Valley Syndrome
Big Bobs Big Wedge
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
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drive south on geology tour rd.
park like you are headed to equinox, and walk in that direction,
there is a 80'high overhanging handcrack facing your westward walk, but i don't remember the name of it.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 15, 2010 - 03:24pm PT
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Is Insomina (11c) gently overhung, or dead vertical? I know that last little bit feels overhung due to the traversing nature. Same with the hand crack on Davy Jones' Locker (12b). That thing is as good as they come, but watch out for the face climbing above!
Josh
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jun 15, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
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Orangutan Arch isn't overhanging. It's steep and hard, but not overhanging.
How about Freak Show at Lovers leap? Best single pitch at the Leap, Jay Smith said so and I agree. Definately overhanging.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2010 - 10:46pm PT
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I thought the crux of the Enema was a flared hand (flared my hand, anyway).
Though there are tons of 'steep' hands in Ca, (and in the southeast, for that matter) I'm with Jim, utah takes this category\, hands down (pun intneded). There are more of these kinds of cracks in seemingly, every square mile of the deseret, than anywhere on the planet, you have to see it to believe it.
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LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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I agree with Orangutaun Arch, that was steep.
Karls Overhang I remembered started with fists (for me) and narrowed down to off fingers (super fun! + I have small hands ;-))
Do or Fly was super fun!!! Roof hands section was super short!!!
Time to make a trip to the desert!
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jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
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Jun 16, 2010 - 02:29am PT
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jeez - overhanging green camalot?!?!?! WTF is WRONG with you man???
That's overhanging ring locks for some of us...palms sweaty just at the thought.
sh**.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jun 16, 2010 - 03:58am PT
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Never been up there but seen pics here on ST and it looks incredible!!! Pitch 1(or maybe 2?) of Southern Belle 12c
Kaukulator 11c
Cramming 10d
Conan Crack 12b at Donner summit looks daunting
Crimson Cringe 12a has a boat load of hand jamming if only gently overhanging (gotta keep it real for Sal)
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades 12a
The Late (RIP) Loose Lips 11b in Josh
and again Big Bobs Big Wedge 12a...... no cams but hey, thats the beauty of it
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
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TIDELINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
11a, Olmstead point area, Merry Braun, Dave Yerian.
Super. F*#king. Awesome.
Plus, at either side of the start of the route are two MASSIVE 2000 year old Junipers. Kinda like guardians. You'll see, it's freaky.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
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I'd hestitate to call Cramming hand size for anything but the very top section.
That middle, .10d portion of Leanie Meanie is nice.
BTW, I always heard Orangutan Arch was kind of dirty. No?
Also, what happened to Loose Lips?
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Jun 16, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
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I think it got beat up in a fight with tideline.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jun 16, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
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Fatty, Loose lips fell to earth one day....the entire roof
Orangutan in '85 was good to go, it is a hand crack so how dirty can it get that a bit of maintenance wouldn't fix
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LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
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Horseshoe Hand grenades hands section was fun (quite short!)but the off fingers section to tips was totally wicked!
Tideline, that was fun too! Big reaches to other hand jams I liked that one!
Orangutaun Arch was little dirty but not too bad...
Awesome list growing it's going be a busy climbing season, so stoked!
Thanx guys & gals!
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jedster
climber
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Jun 16, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
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Here's one off the "beaten path" a little bit. Up Pine Creek near Bishop, is what I think is the wildest trad pitch on the Eastside. Semper Farcisimus is on the Silverback Wall, goes 30m up, and overhangs about 8m in that distance. Entirely gear protected, mostly hand sized, rated 10c. The catch is that the rock quality isn't ideal.
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
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the Viper?
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 12:44am PT
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LMM,
Well, heck! Hand cracks? Uh, MT. WOODSON, ARE YOU KIDDING! Bouldering but some of the best in the nation! Look me up if you're interested! Getting hot so act quick!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 12:55am PT
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Mother Superior...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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The Longs Cracks...
Left Longs...
Right Longs...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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Sickle or Banana Crack...
The amazing Undertow Roof...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 01:24am PT
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Baby Robbins...
...and it's backside, Jaw's...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 01:28am PT
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Out of Sight Crack...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 01:32am PT
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The Crucible...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 01:43am PT
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A bad scan of The Vice Principal's Office...
"the 12- wide you're referring to is probably the vice-principal's office. rick piggot testpiece. and my god, it is burly. significantly harder than mother superior. the grade may be a sandbag." - Bob VanBelle
Just to give you an idea of how overhanging the bottom of this is, if you let go here, you take about a 30 foot pendulum out in space!
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
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Someone asked about more detail on Ribbon Candy. The Yosemite guidebook calls it IV 5.11c**. FA Woodward and Coz 1988. I did it with Chan Harrell in 1994 on a beautiful October day. First 5 pitches are 5.9-5.10 range with some bushes and stuff; nothing notable. Pitch 6 is all time. I actually wrote, "Best 5.11c pitch in the Valley" in my book. Perfect hands traversing left for a ways on a overhanging wall. Lots of golds and blues. The 7th pitch is stout and sporty. 5.11a open handed laybacking in a shallow flaring crack. Gear from the small stuff to a couplpe 4" and 5" pieces (I don't think we had 5" pieces at the time). I'd give the pitch the "r" rating.
Next pitches were strenuous or we were just getting tired. The last move is an OW out a short roofy flare.
Real old school trad Yosemite climbing.
I'll put in a plug for Direct North FAce of Sentinel while I'm at it.
Greg
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Sol Wertkin
climber
Leavenworth, WA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 12:27pm PT
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Washington State's own seperate reality: the full tilt roof on the tempest wall, colchuck balanced rock.
Pinkpointed at 5.12.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 17, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
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S x SW
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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Nice photos illusiondweller. I'd give my eye teeth to have Woodson nearby. Sadly, almost no crack of note in LA to keep those skills honed.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jun 17, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
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Not my photo but an amazing looking route. Overhanging Green to tight Red camalots (supposedly black metolius or #2 Friends fit better)
Six Star Crack, Indian Creek
 Luke
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
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Now THAT is a crack! Lot's more of them there to.
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LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2010 - 02:54am PT
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So.
In my hunt for overhanging hand cracks, thought I keep a log!
So far climbed:
-Karls Overhang (Fun roof!)
-Karls Gym (maybe a stretch?)
-Blues Riff (So much better to climb pitch 1+2 as 1 pitch!)
-Memo for Loyd
-Do or Fly
-Tideline
-Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
-Short Circuit
-Positivity (Need to finish this climb but the overhanging hands part rocked!)
-Orangutan Arch (Still steep!)
-A Dogs Roof (Ok, not technically hands, but still fun!)
-Californian Nightmare
-Robbins Crack
-Jaws
-The Crucibile (ok this more of an all size range, but still ugh at the top)
-Sinbad-Herbert (Another stretch?)
-Sureallistic Pillar Direct
-Leanie Meanie
-Red Zinger (Red Rocks 2nd pitch crux)
-40 Days of Rain (Pinnacles)
Yay so far, going to continue on my tour for awesome overhanging cracks!
Thanks for the suggestions guys & gals my ticklist has def expanded!
Absolutely trying to make it out to the Creek sometime soon!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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you got 40 days of rain?! looks sick. Did it feel 12c? looks totally doable from the ground. I've gotta get on that this winter.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Donini reiterates for good reason!
~~~~~~
Jus' curious if you did:
-Red Zinger (Red Rocks 2nd pitch crux)
What about the previously mentioned 'Desert Gold'?
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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jghedge:
What about Tales of Power ?
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LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2010 - 10:38am PT
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Hey Karo
The rating might be a tad overly generous, I can see the rating being what it is if one didn't know how to jam, and the jams are not bad (Those with bigger mitts will love this climb!)
Other than that, felt that Karl's Overhang, for comparison is harder and more sustained than 40 Days of Rain!
Desert Gold looks awesome saw a wonderful picture of Alan climbing it, just beautiful! Def will need to work up to that first pitch!
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Donner Summit:
Firecracker 10b at black wall, has an awesome roof with nice hands.
lightning bolt roof 11c/d is hands for me!!! #3 camalots black wall as well
bypass 11a on snowshed wall really cool
2nd pitch of jelly roll arch on grouse slab
slowhand 10d on grouse slab too is really cool one of my favorite on the summit
karls overhang 11a on school rock is o.k.
Separate reality 11d and desert gold 13a (or desert reality 11c just the roof) Are pretty much the best I've seen around.
Overdrive is not all that cool really short and weird to get to.
A dog's roof 45 degree purple camalot spliter. so cool
More monkey that funky and big bobs are perfect hands wear tape on both!!!! Zombie woof 12b is green camalots out a 10 foot roof, and It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing 12b is a 15 foot finger crack.
If you find or hear about anymore roof cracks let me know!
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