Fitzroy SW Buttress Funhog Exp Chris Jones Mt #3 May 1969

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Messages 1 - 35 of total 35 in this topic
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 15, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
In my ongoing effort to snare Chris Jones, here is his account of the fabled Funhog Expedition to Patagonia. With a newly restored film of this classic adventure, all hail to the participants! Classic adventure from Mountain #3 May 1969.









marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
May 15, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
¡Los ´Hogs kicked much @ss!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2010 - 01:02pm PT
I can't believe it's a Bump!
go-B

climber
In God We Trust
May 29, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
Thanks SG, I love those glasses!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
Utilitarian and so Stylee!!!
Fritz

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
May 29, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
Steve: Thanks for posting this incredible story. Their adventure has been an inspiration to me for many a year.
Scott Cole

Trad climber
Sunny California
Jun 2, 2010 - 12:13am PT
This is the film that ruined my life! I could have been a CPA, a CEO or even a CFO, but no, I had to watch this film and spend the rest of my life in the pointless pursuit of self gratification. Fitz-Roy wasn't enough.
Just like heroin, the rush was over before the needle was empty, and the next peak was visible from the summit. Like Devo so succinctly phrased it "Lordy I am so tired, how long can this go on?"

The original version of this film inspired me to spend much of my life, and all of my money, looking for mountains to rival the beauty of Fitz-Roy. Nothing I have since climbed has rivaled the Fitz-Roy experience, but the search has been sufficient reward.

When I saw the original I was a teenage boulderer, but that day I became a climber. I salute the Funhog inside, wherever it is found!

Scole
Anguish

Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
Jun 2, 2010 - 12:20am PT
YC will introduce the film 180 Degrees South, a retracing of the expedition, on Friday in Jackson as a benefit for the Teton Boulder Project.
Scott Cole

Trad climber
Sunny California
Jun 3, 2010 - 08:15am PT
Anguish

Sorry I can't be there.

Scole
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jun 3, 2010 - 10:00am PT
Awesome...180 South is playing today in San Luis Obispo, can't wait!
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Jun 3, 2010 - 10:36am PT
Chris Jones is a local here and I have been lucky enough to see some of his shows at the Rock, Ice & Mountain Club. He did this particular show for us and in his humble way made no big deal out of it.
What a great team and awesome adventure.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jun 3, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
Scott, please tell more...and share photos if you´ve got them! Didn´t you do Cerro Torre with Walt as well? Must´ve been a hell of a ride.
Scott Cole

Trad climber
Sunny California
Jun 6, 2010 - 10:15am PT
Marty

Paul Gagner, Walt, and I did the Compressor Rt in 1987. We had intended to climb something on the W. face, but arrived in perfect weather. The Compressor Rt was right there, so we decided to save several days approach and just climb the thing.

I created a new thread, Patagonian Climbs for stories and photos of climbs in the Torre region. I will post photos there
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedr Woolley, WA
Jun 7, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
Another classic, Steve!

Thanks for quality posts;

Thor
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2010 - 11:00am PT
El placer es mio!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 11, 2010 - 11:03am PT
Nice Steve! Missed you and Mimi in Leavenworth.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
Jim- Sorry we bailed on you folks, too! I hope that you had no trouble polishing off that keg!

This has to be the most well documented small expedition ever! Dick Dorworth's account from the October 1969 Summit.








Scott Cole

Trad climber
Sunny California
Jun 13, 2010 - 10:27pm PT
Nice post Steve!
Chris Jones

Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
Jul 2, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
Wow, I don't know if I ever saw this article from Summit. Great find - once again!
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Jul 2, 2010 - 09:10pm PT
Chris, Are you back home yet? Give me call if you are. Good show at the RIM Club on Tuesday,
H
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 2, 2010 - 10:26pm PT
Missed those first time round. Ripping yarns for sure!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
Glorious Funhog Bump...
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Apr 27, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
Just like heroin, the rush was over before the needle was empty, and the next peak was visible from the summit.
Don't say I didn't warn you...
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 27, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
I don't know if you checked the topic I posted on Mar.27
An historic AAC meeting. It may have been the premiere of the film. It was quite a night.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
Bump for a pivotal expedition in a variety of aspects.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Aug 22, 2015 - 01:48pm PT
That was great!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 12:43pm PT
Doug Tompkins Memorial Bump.

So much went on during the Funhogs Expedition that has lead us to the present.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 12, 2015 - 01:53pm PT
That trip seems to have been a pivotal moment that has influenced much more than just the lives of the participants. Something remarkable happened, and continues.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Dec 12, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
I salute the Funhog inside, wherever it is found!
~ Scott Cole

Mountain of Storms is still the best climbing oil I have ever seen (with all due respect to Meru).
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2016 - 04:47pm PT
Bump on the other end of the world...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 2, 2017 - 09:41pm PT
Really good stuff!
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Apr 4, 2017 - 10:21am PT
I have to say that climbing the Fun hog route was one of the most important climbs in my climbing career. "A mountain is more than the sum of its difficult passages" (Lionel Terray,1952". This describes Fitz-Roy perfectly. The climbing was never particularly hard, but the combination of route finding, weather and the intimidating nature of Patagonian climbing before modern weather forecasting required us to push far beyond our previous level of experience.

We were young and naive when we arrived in Rio Blanco in 1983. When we left we had a new perspective on mountaineering, and on what was possible for us. I've climbed harder climbs, but have never pushed my perceived limits as far.

MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Apr 4, 2017 - 02:45pm PT
I think we went up from Providence to see Yvon give a talk to the Harvard Mountaineering Club.

What I especially remember is being told about a long stint in a snow cave, and Yvon saying, "All we had to do was finger-paint with our own turds."

The glories.


There was hardly any room, yet excavation was impossible, with ice on one side and the outside wall on the other. And our cave moved - apart. The third day Doug and Lito escaped to the Great Barrier for more food. We passed time patching up the cave, and dreaming - of home, of food, of anything but here. It was four days before they could get back, and our so-called meals dwindled. Another five days - time passed more and more slowly.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2018 - 03:57pm PT
Claustrophobic bump...
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Oct 3, 2018 - 02:43pm PT
Messages 1 - 35 of total 35 in this topic
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