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| Messages 1 - 90 of total 90 in this topic |
Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 5, 2010 - 06:52pm PT
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Any one climbed at this area in the Superstitions mountains of Arizona?
I know a couple of you who have. Kinda underground. Controversial in its day due to bolting in a wilderness area. We were ground up of course. Arizona style all the way. Late 80's and on fire. I will be 50 in a year. We had a reunion of sorts a little over a year ago. Some of the best memories of my life were from that place. I live in Colorado now and I miss it.
One of the first routes put up in the area by Matt Loffdal
The classic White Rabbit
Kelly Bell on the lower three bolts of White Rabbit
Entering into the area you are presented with this route. Tone Of A bell.
A Jaybro route
Rich Shoup's Huggy Bear
One of Ward's top ten routes. From Mild To Wild
Another steep classic
Are you a Mullet or a Trout. Scary Larry leading
Hans Florine Soloing an off width after putting up a route on the backside.
Ira Hicks on Ambiance. Wonder where he's at in this world.
Doug Smith On Frigid Dare
Gordon Ogden on Typsy Gypsy
The Ogden/Fields route, Eat The Menu, on the hard to find Bovine wall
The late Kelly Bell on the first ascent of ZonerHiway
So..Have you ever done Zonerland?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Yahoo! this is one excellent post! Thanks.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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all my photos are dick bobs, I'll just let him post em.
speaking of which, no MAD photos and who is that hairy son of a bitch belaying scary larry! giekus amoung us.
rotten, got em?
from your dad?
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Thanks dickbob.
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 08:44pm PT
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Here you go Rick D
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Yow, I'd love to get back there, I wonder how my increasingly creaky, digits would do in those pockets, these days, maybe next winter...
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Wow! What a bitchen looking place!! Cheers for a great nostalgic "Climbing Thread!":)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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From looking at those photos it's hard to believe that stuff was done with trad ethics . I hope you guys will write more to this thread .
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Did Jeff Wax used to climb there in the early 80's
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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awesome
wish
had heard of about it, seen pics in the rags at one point.
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
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Didn't think many of you had ever climbed here. Obscure area for sure. No guide out to show the way..yet.
Chez. I don't recall a Jeff Wax.
Up the hill in an area called The Land Of Nod
The biggest tower in Nod
One of the routes on KRAS tower
One of the better routes, Just behind KRAS tower
A 10b up in Nod
The Land Of Nod. Its a beautiful place.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Yup, Biotch, ground up, hooks was the style of the day. And you can't imagine the sh#t we got just doing that!
I ripped a pointy leeper through a pocket and broke a finger, cast and pins for three months, the climbing hiatus that led to parent hood!
Those were the days!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Thanx for more shots! Bump this...Sorry Jaybro about the injury but bless having the progeny!:)
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Looks an awful lot like the rock at Deadman's. Is it similar rock? Sweet post, thanks.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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That's what I thought as well Jan...That killer, "Welded Tuff!":)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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believe me, Mike, twenty years later and it worked out A-okay!
Left Pinky, Btw, isn't that the same one you, uh damaged?
It climbs a lot like deadman's in spots, but is more variable.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Yeah Jay...But I got the worse I think...Peace, MP.:) Yeah it does look more varied...I remember Deadman's having places where the pockets were all small at times and I can see steeper stretches here with more features...:)
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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We climbed in Zonerland/Land of Nod a couple of times in the mid-90s or so--wonderful area, as those pix make clear. The walk-in was just enough to keep the riff-raff away, and the climbs were mostly short but enjoyable and "action-packed". I know that new routeing in the area was shut down around that time because of conservation concerns but I presume that the area remains open for climbing unless the bolts were removed (though they might be ageing a bit now anyway).Queen Creek/Oak Flat seems to have absorbed most of the action since then, though I personally preferred the climbing and the ambiance in the Supes. Do folks still get up there?
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teamwhipper
climber
Bay Area, CA
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I'd agree with Al that the climbing in Zonerland always seemed better than the routes at the Pond or in Queen Creek. I spent time there on two trips, maybe in 1990 and again in 1991. While I don't remember many of the routes we put up, I do remember seeing some youngish guy from Phoenix climbing shirtless accidently rip out his nipple ring against the rough rock. Much blood, much pain, and much whimpering on his part. Can't quite remember, but I think he did it falling and scraping his chest on the very short 11d arete just right of Red Headed Rockpecker.
I was later told that Lynn Hill said Shredlocks in a Babylon (an 11c I put up in the Land of Nod) was her favorite route in Arizona. Given how many great routes there are in that fine state, that can't have been true. I thought Jim Waugh's routes to the east of Zonerland were pretty fun. Can't remember the names of that area, but the Minotaur might have been one of the routes. Good times.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Rick D,
While scrolling the post I spent a little more time than the rest on that photo with Scary Larry. Maybe because I haven't seen him in over a decade. I also was trying to place the belayer and couldn't.
But you tagged it........Jeff Giek?
It wouldn't have kept me up at night but thanks for that. Now....who's sitting on the rock watching?
~Susan
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Curious why it was not included in PhxRock? Maybe it is as simple as the routes were set afterwards? or maybe juicier than that?
There are 400+ established routes in the Superstitions, an amount that comes out to a guidebook of 300+ pages, about the same size as Phoenix Rock II itself. Marty had already done the Queen Creek guide after the explosion of routes there, so it seemed like the best way to go would be for an individual guide to the Supes.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Nice old' pics, thanks for sharing.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Oops... sorry Pernell.
Virtually all of the (original) routes in Zonerland, The Labyrinth, and The Cemetary went up following the publication of Phoenix Rock in January 1987. I know by that point, Jim W. was actively encouraging climbers to go out and check the area for it's vast route potential.
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
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Team Wipper. You are exactly one of the folks I am fishing for. Quiet unassuming climber comes up to Zonerland at the height of its creation and with zero attitude, sends everything. Then he vanish's over the ridge and plucks the top grape from the vine and names it Shredlocks In A Babalon leaving the Queen to visit and labels his work as one of the best that Arizona has to offer. I hope things are going well for you.
These are the only photos I have of Shredlocks and they dont show it very well.
Here is another route that you put up just to the left of Shredlocks. The American Sportsman 11d
A couple of other good climbers that spent some time up in Zonerland.
Brian Bailey
The late Kyle Copeland
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2010 - 02:03pm PT
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Susan Peplow
The guy on the rock watching Larry lead is Matt Lofdahl. He is the Red Headed Rock Pecker and The one who named Zonerland.
A photo of him cutting of tat to placate the rangers and to install the chains on top of RHRP. Frodo pointing things out.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nipple ring guy was from Flag. His picture is above, I don't know if he wants to be noted, though noone seems to know his whereabouts.
hey teamwhipper! Gonna be @ Donner Summit this summer?
i quoted you in the valley about bolts, climber/photographer/ ranger interface issue earlier today.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 10, 2010 - 12:10am PT
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Okay, I'm back colocated with my photos...
Three views of Shredlocks...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 10, 2010 - 12:22am PT
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A few more...
Fred on start of Tone of A Bell...
Fred just past the crux on Tone...
Brass Nuts on Billy Idol
Brass Nuts on Red Headed Rock Pecker
Brass Nuts on Whirlwind
Brass Nuts on Lead Filled Snowshoes
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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May 10, 2010 - 12:28am PT
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Yeah! That's cool...Awesome thread bump!:)
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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May 10, 2010 - 12:31am PT
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A friend just spent the night on the Needle this weekend. I've not been there, but it looks awesome. Cool photos!
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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May 10, 2010 - 01:12am PT
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Nice short shorts, guys.
Looks like a great place to climb.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 10, 2010 - 03:27am PT
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Short Shorts?
We got short shorts...
The Labyrinth, technically not Zonerland, but not far away.
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2010 - 09:44am PT
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Thanks for the photos! Been looking at mine for 20 years. Just what I needed.
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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May 10, 2010 - 10:53am PT
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killer thread!!!
great photos....
Looks like a bad azz area for sure
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 10, 2010 - 06:50pm PT
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A few more for dickbob...
Rock Rats
Peralta Canyon - gateway to Zonerland
Windwalker
Gimme Samoa Tower (R) and Dr. Who Tower (L)
Looking south across Bovine Wall
Brad on Rude Awakening
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2010 - 07:08pm PT
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Now that's what I'm talking about! Knew you wouldn't let me down.
Windwalker...Rock Rats...Love it!
Rude Awakening. Very nice. Thank you...
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2010 - 08:38pm PT
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In The Forbidden Zone towards the needle. The late great Scottie Heinz on Scary Little Monsters.
Across from Tone Of A Bell
Down stream from White Rabbit
The clean Ward crack on the Bovine Wall
Half way up Billy Idol
Pockets Full Of Posers on the ridge
Maximum Overdrive
First ascent of a crack near Tone Of A Bell
In the heart of Zonerland
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habitat
climber
grass pass
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May 10, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
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Wow...excellent thread...one of the best I have seen here...
pure gold...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 10, 2010 - 10:53pm PT
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Rick - I've seen quite a few of your photos now and don't think I've ever paid an appropriate compliment for the great shots you have taken. Very nice!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 11, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
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a couple of Tangential players, lurking at the Peralta trailhead
Wendy White & Dick Cilley
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
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steelmnkey
Thanks for the compliment. Its easy to take good photos in Zonerland. Its on top of the world and vibrant up there.
Every one has seen this one.
Where are the location of Wind Walker and Rock Rats? Smeltser Canyon? Haven't had the pleasure.
Wendy and Dick = Good people.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 11, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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DB - both routes are on the Fortress. Windwalker (11a) west right side, Rock Rats (10b) east sort of central left. There's another one off to the right on the east called Sticky Bush (10d/11a) that is also pretty good. All of them are Brad M. routes. Rock Rats I'd give three stars, others probably only two (out of three).
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
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SM
Thaaats right. Now I can place them. Brad's the man. Thanks!
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treeman
climber
mule city
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May 11, 2010 - 02:03pm PT
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Brad M = Brad Mattingly?
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
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Yep. The Man. Hear about his little bike ride last year? Banff to Mexico. No pavement...Unsupported?
Zonerland Reunion
Group photo from that day.
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treeman
climber
mule city
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May 11, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
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i see a drew m., a b-rad, maybe a shoup dog, who else was there?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 11, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
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rick d and his son in the right center.
Mike C left of rick d
Manny in the lower left... Ryan F. on the far right?
Assume red haired dude is the Red Headed Rock Pecker?
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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May 11, 2010 - 04:49pm PT
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manny
(andy) m, gordon o, mike c, rick d, iain d, MAD (dannerbeck), ryan f.
brad m, matt THE redheadedrockpecker, (1,2) luke
so richard robert or doug s took the photo as both are mia
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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May 11, 2010 - 05:34pm PT
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oh,
and f*#k you scotty!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 11, 2010 - 05:52pm PT
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Looks like a fun area!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 11, 2010 - 07:26pm PT
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Here's a bit of my own personal history...
Working copies of Zonerland info for the last (almost) 20 years, starting in 1991. The one in the upper left side was the first one that I put together in 1991 from whatever source I could dig up at the time. Most of it was thanks to Dickbob for taking on the chore of documenting the routes at the time. Back then, I remember being acosted at the Peralta trailhead by the rangers when they saw our ropes dangling on packs.
"Are you going climbing?"
"Yes?"
"You know there's no bolting here!"
"We're not planning on bolting. We don't even have bolting gear."
"Okay, as long as you know there's no bolting here!"
(yeah dude, we get the point, Jeezuz)
I didn't know anyone who actually climbed out there at the time, and except for a couple German dudes we saw down in the main Zonerland area working on Don't Worry Be Happy, we didn't really run into anyone either. But I had that collection of info (yellow cover) I'd assembled, and I was pretty good with vague info by then. We ended up wandering up to the Ridgeline, where I put two and two together and figured out we were at Whirlwind Tower (pic of the route Whirlwind posted above). I was walking around elated at putting some names and grades to routes when I went between a couple of towers (Munchkin's Bane) and there's a ranger about 25m to the northwest, hunched down on a rock shelf. Just sitting there. WTF? I said hi, and he said hello like it was just some casual meeting on a trail somewhere and I didn't know why he'd stalked us from the parking lot.
"What's that?", he says asking about my little book.
"Oh, it's just some climbing information for this area."
"There's a book?"
"No, it's just something I put together."
"Are you publishing a guidbeook?"
"No, it's just something I put togehter for myself."
"Did you see where those German guys went?" he asks all casual like.
"Yeah, they went that-a-way!" I said, pointing him 180 degrees in the wrong direction.
Tool.
I really hit my stride thanks to Brad M., who went with me a couple of times out there and solved a ton of outstanding route mysteries. Brad is one of the good guys. Dickbob has been a lot of help as well and really the legwork behind much of the original area documentation. We'll have to stop pitter-pattering around one of these days and sit down for a big ol' beer face to face. :-)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 11, 2010 - 09:21pm PT
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Greg, get the Fish or Cilley to tell the 'Parking Monitor ' story sometime, you'll identify!. Gawd what a pack of self-important dweebs!
It's cool seeing all these shots, I have a stack of slides to scan...
I get to see Dru, Greg and Manny every so often, and have even talked with Raypole on the phone in the last year. It would be a kick to see the rest of you sometime, i can hear your voices. Miss you all, but especially Scotty, because I can't, see him any more.
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2010 - 09:28pm PT
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Holy bajesus!! I had no idea you had five bound differant copies of the area! Those damn things are valuable. When can I get my hands on the real McCoy? Your right about the beers. I'm parched.
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teamwhipper
climber
Bay Area, CA
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May 12, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
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Wow, this thread sure brings back good memories. It was Ryan and Gordon who must have told us about Zonerland, and I think given us an initial tour. My recollection is I met Gordon at Hueco, maybe on Stardust. Hope those 2 are doing well; they were a lot of fun. Ryan must have been very young at the time--- I thought he had huge climbing potential. Hope they're both still climbing. Dickbob, I can't remember us meeting, but since you've got a pic of Brian Bailey out there, I think we must have. I did a multi-month road trip with Brian and friends somewhere in the late 80's/early 90's, and I'm now dimly remembering that one of the Zonerland trips was on that longer trip. I had a request from the widow of a now dead partner for pictures of him climbing, so only last month I went through hundreds of slides, and actually found some of Zonerland with him. I'm not savvy enough to post them, but it was fun to see them, and then to see all the great pictures in this thread.
Jaybro, I'm sure I'll spend some time at Donner this summer, although probably much more time on Sonora Pass. Given the current snow level, it looks like maybe a late start to higher elevation rock this year though. And Dickbob, things are great. I'm living in California, and still climbing most weekends. Cheers!
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treeman
climber
mule city
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May 14, 2010 - 11:11am PT
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Bumping this back to the front page cuz AZ rock climbing trumps its politics anyday.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 14, 2010 - 11:35am PT
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I've been climbing a lot on Sonora pass the last few years, i'll look for you there.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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May 14, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
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BUMP
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
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Any one been out climbing here in Zonerland. Its the season. Its been months. Pictures please!
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Dec 23, 2010 - 08:48pm PT
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Some of my friends went recently (I've been out there a couple of times)-I'm going to get out there for some days this January... If anyone is interested in going, send me a message-I have a flexible schedule.
Cool pics and great thread, by the way!
-Catherine
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
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Catherine,
If you go post up a few photos. Would you please. Trip report would probably be asking to much. But then...maybe not?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 23, 2010 - 09:49pm PT
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Love to see what's going on there these days!
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teamwhipper
climber
Bay Area, CA
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Aug 18, 2011 - 01:15am PT
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teamwhipper
climber
Bay Area, CA
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Aug 18, 2011 - 01:22am PT
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Aug 18, 2011 - 07:53am PT
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I never did make it out last year, but seeing all these pics-As soon as it cools down, I'm going out there-and a TR for SURE!
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Aug 18, 2011 - 08:01am PT
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I have been inspired to post up a couple pics from that time a while back that I was there. I think these pics were taken by Monica Miller.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 18, 2011 - 10:43am PT
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gracias! mas!
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Aug 18, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
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Missed this thread first time
Lots of great photos, TFPU
It's a fun place, fer sur
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 18, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
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How's things in teamwhipperland?
If there is ever a book on the history of climbing access issues, we should collaborate on chapter one!!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 21, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
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Bump.
I'm a zoner, and proud.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Sep 22, 2011 - 12:10am PT
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Awesome stuff!
Thanks for stoking the fire!!
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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Thanks all. Been awhile since I checked this. New photos...Yessssss.
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2011 - 08:23am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 27, 2011 - 10:56am PT
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'bout that season, anybody gettin' out there?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Nov 27, 2011 - 11:15am PT
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I need to go there
love this thread
more pics
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Nov 10, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
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Bump-iddy-bump!!!!! I will be heading out there with some girlfriends... new photos to add soon... excited... it is crack-smokin' cold here in Phoenix today-must find warmest spot possible for the next couple of days, and I think this will fit the bill! It's been years, YAY for tomorrow. Can't wait for Tone of the Bell.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 10, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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What a cool place to be going. Post pictures. Have a blast out there wish I could tardis in for the day!
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Nov 10, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
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Yes, Jay, wish you could be here...! I shall report back... going to bring the fancy camera. Hopefully I can get some good shots. How are things up in Moab? Hope your able to circumvent the weather somehow....
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
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Gal... Your such a tease. Where are my new photos?
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2014 - 04:24pm PT
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So much potential in the range. A bit of a resurgence in bouldering is going on right now.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Those are wonderful photos. They remind me of shots from the Dresden area in the early 1900s. Almost a surreal quality.
;>)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, dickbob... great stuff here... thanks so much for sharing, :)
love these mts... :)
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
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John, thanks.
Neebee..
You are both, always, very affirmative.
Never been to Dresden but for a small humble area such as the Sups, that is a very large compliment.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 24, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
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Team Whipper in Zonerland. I've got a ton more, but they're mostly not scanned.
I'll scan climbing slides for free... have done a lot for other's on the STForum (and beyond)...
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2019 - 01:39pm PT
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I kind of forgot about this thread. The boys are talking about planning another visit soon. Here are some more old photos.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 23, 2019 - 05:38pm PT
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nice thread
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Jan 23, 2019 - 06:20pm PT
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[salivating]
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 23, 2019 - 06:33pm PT
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Ha, Land of Nod? If that's the same, I was somewhere in that area and climbed some unclimbed pinnacle thing, backed off leaving tat & a red tri-cam .
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Jan 23, 2019 - 07:20pm PT
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Amen
kB
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| Messages 1 - 90 of total 90 in this topic |
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