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waitsfan
Sport climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 1, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
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I'm doing some spring cleaning (it's not too early for that, is it?), and found a bunch of old pitons and stuff.
Lots of different shapes and sizes.....stamps like Fritsch &C?? Zurich, Hob???? made in Austria, R. Cassini, Stubai...
I can't post pictures from my home computer...but will post pictures later if anyone is interested.
Anyway, I don't have any use for these and am looking to sell them if it is worth my time.
If anyone could point me in the right direction for valuation I'd really appreciate it!
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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I may be interested in some of these... looking forward to pics.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Yes, Photos are a must!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Michael Chessler of Chessler books expressed some interest in my collection. That was several years ago. Roger Breedlove suggested that I donate mine to the Yosemite Museum collection, but I hesitate...
Ebay is another possible outlet. But as Jan and IHP suggest, photos are most helpful...
Here is the labeling for the pic below:
Upper left: 3 Leeper pins, mid-late 60's; Lower left: 3 Leeper bolt hangers, mid-late 60's; Next: 3 Dolt bolt hangers, late 60's; next: 3/16" hangers, rawl bolts, & drill bits; next: 2 1/4" rawl bolts w/Leeper hangers, mid-late 60's; next: Drill bit holder & extractor; Upper right: new RURP, old RURP; Center right: Dolt Mashie, late 60's.
For the next one below: Upper row: L -> R: 2 U.S. Army aluminum biners, circa late 50’s-early 60’s; Cassin steel biners, circa 50’s, early 60’s. Lower row L -> R: Chouinard biners: 1-early model: the small radius of the smaller of the two radii (nearest the gate hinge) used to scare the sh*t out of aid climbers when they’d shift their weight from one aid sling to another, so in later models, Yvon widened the radius as shown in Models 2 & 3. Models 4 & 5 were essentially ovals but designed so that their gates would open when a climber’s weight was on them, unlike the Army and Bedayan (not shown) biners that were in common usage at the time.
The next one down: Left row: European soft iron pins that were designed for European ethics of the FA party leaving them in the route; however, with the Sierra Club tradition in Yosemite of removing all the pins each time the route was done (“…leave nothing but footprints…”), the soft iron pins wouldn’t last for duration of a Yosemite climb. Also, the “vertical” pin design was useless in Yosemite’s dihedrals.
Center Row: Top, #1: To forge pins that would last on a Yosemite climb, John Salathé & Jerry Gallwas forged very hard steel pitons. #2: CMI or SMC copy of Chouinard’s “Bugaboo” 4130 chrome-moly pitons; #3: unmarked, “right-handed,” “Bugaboo;” #4-7: Chouinard’s early, flame-cut, “left-handed,” “Bugaboo” pitons, circa late 60’s; #8-11: Dolt 4340 chrome-moly steel pitons, circa 1967. Note the “D” shaped eye which was designed to allow the biner to lie close to the rock, eliminating the need for tie-off loops. However, the predominantly vertical cracks of Yosemite meant that usually that design innovation didn’t really help a climber.
Right Row: Top #1-3: Late model Chouinard knifeblade “Bugaboos,” circa early 70’s; #4-6 Chouinard “Lost Arrow” horizontal pitons, circa late 60’s-early 70’s; #7-9 Dolt 4340 horizontals; #10: second generation Dolt horizontal, forged with extra long blade that was carried in adjacent leather holster for placement & removal of climbing chocks as “clean” climbing phase out pitons in the late 60’s. Note beefed-up piton head that increased second generation pitons’ durability.
And for the last one below: 3 Dolt horizontal pitons and one extra thin-long piton designed for clean climbing chock placement & removal.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Boo Man
You do not want to sell any of your old hardware to Chissler. He pays dog sh#t, buffs up some of the the classics, has Royal or Yvon and others autograph them in white ink and sells them for a million. He was baffled why Kor, the most impoverished of all the "old boys" would not participate in this endeavor. Kor's soul is not on the market!
Get in touch with Ken, aka Chicken Skinner on ST for possible donation to the Yosemite Climbing Museum.
cheers
yer buddy Guido
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mighty fine collection there BOO!
I agree, keep em in the family, yet the almighty dollar tends to steer one away from historical donation.
let us know what you end up doing with your gear.
Thanks for the description lists, very informative.
Mucci
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Gee, Ken, your collection worries me. Some of my gear of similar vintage is still in my active collection, though it's been several decades since I placed a pin. No wonder so many of my partners think my gear belongs in a museum!
John
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bookie
climber
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Hello,
I am Michael Chessler of Chessler books, and I see that somebody has just posted some mis-information about me. I do not actually rip off people from whom I buy things, or people who sign books for me. I realize it is better to be modest about what I do, but I want to correct some negative image some people may have of me. Some people do not like to see me making a living off climbing (what about Chouinard and Robbins, or Conrad Anker and Lynn Hill, or even the owners of your local gym?), but this is what I have given back to the community;
1. Layton Kor refused to sign books for me for ten years because he is modest. But when ill health caused him to seek additional income, Kor signed books for me last year. I promised to pay him $1000. But I changed my mind as he did so well, and I paid him $3000. The same month I paid a lot to Fred Beckey, even though he tried to refuse my check. I also gave Apa Sherpa $1000 to sign a few books and Ice Axes. All in a one month period.
2. Every time Royal Robbins signs books or pitons for me, I donate $500 to his Boy Scout troop. So far I have donated $3000. I am also the only person to have donated money to Tom Frost for his lawsuit against the NPS to save Camp 4.
3. Over 20 years I donated $50,000 to the Sir Edmund Hillary Himalayan Trust, for Ed Hillary signing books for me. I also donated thousands to the American Himalayan Foundation for access to Messner, Whittaker, Herzog, etc.
4. I donated to the personal charities of Doug Scott, Goran Kropp, Jim Whittaker, and many others. If I do not donate cash, I always offer free books to climbers who help me out.
5. I am actually the only bookseller in the USA or world that I ever heard of who pays authors to sign books! Not just mountaineering books, any books. Its just not done, yet I do it with enthusiasm. My customers love it, as I offer something that they cannot get anywhere else.
6. I generously pay people who are on speaking tours to make a living, such as Chris Bonington, Stephen Venables, and many others.
7. I paid Barbara Washburn $4000 for Bradford Washburn's signing books in the last year of his life, while nursing home fees were eating up their savings. Brad enjoyed doing it, even though he was senile.
8. In the last week I saw the email posting by Todd Gordon that money is needed by Jim Bridwell, as he is having financial problems. I emailed Todd, he gave my phone number to Bridwell, and the bottom line is that I will meet with Jim soon and pay him $2000 to sign some books and pitons for me. Plus I will fly him to Denver to do it.
9. When I buy hardware or books from individuals I pay top dollar, which is why I have such good books for sale. I think my critics are people are not book buyers, or readers, or collectors. I sometimes make low offers for books or magazines that are common or in poor condition and not worth much. The Internet destroyed the used (and new) book business, and the things I do such as getting books signed are a way to create a new niche where I can survive in a very bad environment for booksellers. How many of you go on-line to buy your books because Amazon is cheaper than me or Neptune? That is why I get books signed, to offer something Amazon cannot offer.
10. I do not pay authors to sign their new books when they are on tour promoting their books, as signing books for free in bookshops and climbing shops is part of their job. Some climbers such as Ed Viesturs and David Breashears and Joe Simpson resent not being paid by me, even though they accept $10,000-$20,000 speaking fees, as I don't pay rich people to do what rich people are supposed to do, help me promote their products.
11. I made an exception to my no pay for new books rule with Steve House, I paid him to sign his new books (350 of them), and did not charge a penny extra for his signature, because I read his book and realized he was not a wealthy person.
12. Some of the collectible gear I get is not sold. I have donated rare pitons to Reinhold Messner's climbing museum in Italy. The Yosemite museum is not the only museum in the world, nor the most visible.
So please, when you speak ill of somebody, don't make an ass of yourself by not only mis-speaking, but actually stating the obverse of the truth.
Michael Chessler
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Nice response Michael!
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john hansen
climber
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I have bought many books from Mr Chessler and have never been disapointed.
John Hansen
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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OK Chessler
Had to look up obverse-good word, I will have to put that in my repertoire
What I stated on ST was from a telephone call between you and moi in 2006. At that time I was quite perturbed at you slamming Kor for not wanting to prostitute himself by signing your damn pitons. I could state exactly what you said but it would not do anybody any good (he said /she said and all that).
If you have indeed accomplished all those wonderful things you stated in items #1-#11 then good on you and we can let it rest.
Meanwhile, I will have my attorney, just for the record, try to verify all those quite generous donations. If he is too busy I will have my personnal private investigator, Lisbeth Salander suss things out.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Having just moved, I, too, encountered my "junk box" of climbing gear. A few samples (of a very great many items:
Note the Longware 2" bong (lower right) and the home-made knife blade to Chuck Wilts' SCB specs (with the sling). Also check out the 1-1/4" split-shaft Rawl bolt. I dare say there are still too many of those in place.
I rather suspect that I'll throw none of this stuff away -- but that I'll also never use any of it again.
John
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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I've had a lot of dealings with Michael C. over the years and they have all been very positive. You have to have a serious collector/archivist to give an activity some creedence. That's Mike.
Shalom
John Long
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Ken (and others): If you donate vintage equipment to the Yosemite Climbing Association (or probably for that matter the American Alpine Club), they may issue you a tax credit receipt for the fair market value of the donation. Both are 501 (c)(3) organizations under the Internal Revenue Code. It may in some cases be a challenge figuring out what the fair market value of the stuff is, but it can usually be done.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Boodawg - I'm no expert on the pins, but I've had an ebay emailed search on pitons set up for years now and know what goes by on a regular basis. Old hand-made Chouinards are always in demand, the early Leepers you don't really ever see, but the real standouts here are the Dolts.
BillCoe here donated one of the long Dolts to the Ken and the Yosemite Climbing Museum. It was one that he had given me in a group for pin replacements at our crag and I came about a millisecond from sinking it before recognizing something was different about it.
I gave it back to Bill who then donated it, but I sure would love to have one of those long Dolt pins so if you do want to sell it just let me know.
Good luck with it all.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I'm on a similar level with healyje. I rummage through Ebay on a daily basis for all sorts of things.
But the one thing that's on the semi rare watch list that just seems to elude me is a Dolt piton.
If anyone has one that they might be willing to sell or trade for something comparable like a MOAC nut or something, I'd be very willing to negotiate.
I've seen a few come up for auction but their hard to verify as Dolt because several different companies made similar looking pins.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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I can guarantee that these Dolt pins were hand made by Dolt himself. He gave a bunch to Lauria and me to test on our 8th ascent of the Nose. He also gold-plated 4 of those that we carried on the climb and gave one each to Don and me. I wonder if Don still has his... If I could only find mine now... Gotta keep diggin' in boxes here... The gold plating was flaking off last time I saw it, due, I think, to rust beneath it. Anyway those in the pix are genuine.
I heard that all of Dolt's estate was hijacked by some low-lifer, so where the rest of his stuff is I have no idea. Don, please chime in here...
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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I can't vouch for how Michael Chessler treats the "legends" of the climbing world, but I have had numerous dealings with him as both a buyer and a seller and felt that he treated me fairly in both my roles.
Bruce
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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For skeptics or for those who want to verify that a Dolt peg is genuine, try checking for "Dolt" name on the head of the pin. Of course, this is just where it might have been obliterated by even one removal from a crack, but they were put there on Dolt's originals.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Boodawg, sorry, I realized I should have addressed the post to you above. Again, if you do want to part with the long Dolt please let me know.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Dolt's 2nd generation of horizontal pegs had a meatier head, but the "Dolt" was replaced by a single "D."
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I remember Dolt writing a letter to Summit about your ascent and those pins, Boo Dog. Unfortunately, his prices were beyond my budget, except for my Doltster, which I still have. I also remember one of his ads mentioning forging some horizontals out of titanium. Does anyone have any of those?
John
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Sheesh, John; Good memory!! I'd forgotten about Dolt's letter AND the titanium DOLTPEGs. I found the letter on P. 34, of the June, '67 issue of "Summit." It references an ad he placed (P. 28, May, '67) where he mentions the gold plating of the pegs that we took up the Nose. I don't think my gold-plated momento will reappear...
One of my 2 Dolsters is the green one in the third pic of my first posting on this thread.
I remember handling fondly (or was it fondling handily?) the titanium pegs; I wonder who, if anyone, has them now... Don Lauria might know. Hennek gave his hardware away, tho he may have retained a few unique pieces. I'll ask McClinsky; he may have some... Other WestRidge lurkers may also have some clues...
Waitsfan, Thanks for starting this thread. Now that I've gotten into this history a bit, I'd also be interested in seeing pix of what you've got. I'm not sure if it'll be worth your while financially since there has been only mild interest in small portions of my stuff. But how much effort would it take to lay the stuff out, snap a few pix , and describe the items briefly?
Looking forward...
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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START OF THREAD DRIFT
I heard that all of Dolt's estate was hijacked by some low-lifer...
Ken, I don't think you are refering to me (Jeepers, Wally! I hope not!), but let me take a second or two to tell you what I know about the current status of the Dolt name. (Note: Some of this info was posted on another thread.)
The original DOLT logo is iconic. It was before my time but from a purely design aesthetic, the logo is timeless. I recognized this last year and started asking around as to who owned the rights. I went deep into the history of climbing and spoke with everyone from Robbins, Chouinard, Lauria, Calderwood, Caldwell and several others who knew Bill in an attempt to get a lead to the legal rights owner. Don Lauria was kind enough to supply a patchy link to the husband and wife who acquired the rights to the DOLT brand out of probate court back in the 1970s. These folks were involved (co-owners I believe) with West Ridge Sports. Another two weeks of research led me to these fine people in Nevada. Not only were they excited to see the logo used on shirts, they sent me original DOLT artwork, Bill's poetry, his patents, and other paraphernalia. (Yes, all of it will eventually be sent to the YCA museum when I finish drooling on it.) Hell, I have one item that is so effin unbelievable it gives me wood!
But I digress...
In return for licensing the DOLT brand these folks wanted me to make donation (based on sales) to their charitable school/church building work for the ultra-poor in South America. Since I already donate a percentage of everything I sell, this was a no-brainer.
So, the owners of everything Dolt acquired it legally and one presumes they did it because they knew Bill and wanted to continue his legacy (which they did for a while with an altered--and not as iconic--logo.)
Now, you may know more about these folks (who live in Nevada) than I do and you may have reason to feel they are "low-lifes" but I did want to let you know everything I know about the history of the brand post Bill's passing.
END OF THREAD DRIFT... back to more exciting stuff>>> OLD PINS!
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Hey BooDawg,
Are you looking to sell?
What is the price?
Is anyone looking to make the purchace then make a donation to a muesum?
I know this has happened here on ST before.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Thanks so much, IHP, for filling me in on the history of Dolt as you understand it. I was not accusing anyone of being a low-lifer, merely repeating the rumor that came to me in hopes of stimulating discussion and revealing current information. My main interest here is to get the history of various aspects of climbing recorded, especially as it relates to the people, climbs, and, yes, hardware, that were so much a part of my life.
Bill Dolt was a generous and kind-hearted man, tho he had his eccentric ways, as we all do...
So, IHP, did you acquire any of Dolt's hardware in your transactions with the Nevada couple? Do they have any of the hardware? How about the titanium pegs? Where did they go? Doubtful that climbers active at that time bought them at his prices... Did Bill give them to other climbers to test as he did to Lauria and me with his first generation pegs? Did any of Dolt's hardware from his estate come to Ken (Chicken Skinner) and the Yosemite climbing museum.
Below is a pic of more of Dolt's hardware: 2 Cobra hooks are in the center row, left. These 2, with their narrow diameter "heads," I found not very useful on climbs. I had another one with a 2" diameter head that was VERY useful; I was grateful to have it on the FA of Sentinel's Gobi Wall. Right-center row is a DOLTJACK which was Dolt's answer to the RURP. VERY hard steel, not sure what kind but "stainless," like the Cobras, tho there are spots of rust on all 3 now. The ad in the May, '67 "Summit," referenced above, says there was a patent pending on the DOLTJACK. But it doesn't mention Cobras which I assume came later.
Complete caption: Top: 2 "bolt hooks" custom-made by Hennek to use in holes where bolts were no longer in place as well as other placement possibilities; Center row: 2 Dolt Cobras & 1 DOLTJACK; Bottom row: Chouinard "Crackinups." They came in a variety of thicknesses. I think that Hennek, Roobinson, and Rowell used them with great success on the first clean ascent of HD’s NW face.
Beside my interest in the history, I'm a pack-rat by nature which is why I still have this hardware, old Summits, AAJs, and autographed books by Gaston, Shipton, and others. So my purpose here is NOT to sell this stuff. Since I have little income now, a tax-deductible donation wouldn't help me at all. However, I do like the idea of some compensation for it AND having it end up in the Yosemite climbing museum where its story can be shared with any who are interested. When I corresponded with Chessler about the gear, I sent him a spreadsheet of quantities of each item. I could send it to others if they were interested in buying some, if not all, of it and donating it to the museum.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sounds like a very reasonable plan. If someone buys stuff from you for a fair price, and then turns around and donates it to the YCA museum project and receives a donation receipt, everyone's ahead. And if the YCA, and similar projects, don't need the gear, then sell it for the best price you can get.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hi Ken,
I had a Dolt long pin that I used for cleaning with "Dolt" on the head. I notice that the one you show up-thread had a small hook at the end. Is this something that you added or was in on the orginal pin? Mine did not have a notch.
The Dolt pin, my Dolt holster, and my hamnmer are shown below.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Yes, Mighty Hiker, those are my current thoughts.
Roger, I think it was Hennek who added the hook later. BTW, the cleaner's "Dolster," pictured up-thread, had the DOLT logo stamped into the leather, and as I remember, Hennek made a few of those as well, using Dolt's stuff. Probably Dolt changed the piton blanks again, so you may have a 3rd generation model since mine just as a single D on it. However, that might have occurred after he died, so maybe yours is 2nd generation and mine is third... Hennek might be able to tell us... Dennis?
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Ken,
Check out this thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/727870/Dolt_Stories
One of the posters, Marty Karabin has perhaps the world's largest collection of Dolt gear including gold (not plated!) tie clips!
I already owned a few pins and bashies from Dolt but the materials I acquired from the couple in Nevada are all original poems, catalogs, patents,photos, etc.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Also, I told the folks about Ken and the YCA museum efforts and they sent him some stuff including the DOLT mailbox of which there is a picture on here somewhere.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Thanks SO much, IHP, for the information and the links; they seem to answer most of my general questions, though those about the titanium pegs and a few other details remain.
Most interesting is that seeing the close-up pic of the Dolt peg with the DOLT logo on the opposite side of the peg from the "D." It made me look closer to my cleaner peg, and lo and behold, there is a faint DOLT logo there that I missed in my first inspection. But I'm posting a pic here which has the logo both on the leather holster made for the cleaner, I think by Hennek, AND the logo on the cleaning peg itself. Has anyone, besides Lauria & Hennek, even SEEN such a DOLT holster for a cleaning peg? (Look for it in my 3rd and 4th pix in my first posting on this thread.)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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This is the first I have seen the holster. It is cool that Dolt came up with the design. Did Bill make it, or Dennis?
My cleaner pin, with a notch has the same logo that your shows but I don't think it has a 'D' on the other side (I no longer have it; it is at the YCM).
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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BooDawg: You got cool stuff! As a Dolt cleaning pin owner: let me chime in with more arcane information.
How many sizes did the cleaning piton come in? I have two. Per photos they are both marked on one side with Dolt logo, but one does not have the D on the other side.
Can't remember if Dolt Belay seat came up in the previous thread on Dolt. I probably bought it around 1972.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Man, that exchange between Guido and Chessler was THE MONEY!
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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I'll check my old Dolt catalog on a few of these questions and scan/post tonight/tomorrow. Gotta run and teach kids the basics of calc!
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Great thread!
It's amazing the pattern on those pins, they look almost as if someone etched a pattern on them, but I assume it's just scaling from forging.
That little brass pin is sweet!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Michael Chessler has a reputation for being prickly, but mutual friends think highly of him. Anyway prickly is not a crime around here.
Welcome to SuperTopo Michael. I hope you stick around.
Best regards, Roger
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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I have the Dolt catalog sitting next to me... now if I could just find some time to do some scanning...
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waitsfan
Sport climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 10:28am PT
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ok....so I finally took some pictures........
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waitsfan
Sport climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 10:29am PT
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waitsfan
Sport climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 10:31am PT
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waitsfan
Sport climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 10:31am PT
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waitsfan
Sport climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 10:39am PT
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last one
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Mar 31, 2010 - 07:18pm PT
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I've bought a number of old and hard to find books on the history of Himalayan climbing from Michael Chessler and was always pleased. I was also in on the deal to get Layton Kor to sign some books. I agree with Michael that Layton didn't do that before out of modesty. In the end, he agreed to sign books not just for the money but to help me get a copy of Beyond the Vertical in a trade which Pat Ament and Michael brokered. Good was done on all sides.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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THE CHIEF: Thank you for the opportunity for me to look at my own Shadow. We all have our Shadows. Many don't want to look at their own Shadows and will distract themselves with others' concerns. Only by looking within can we become aware of who we really are.
To help me on my journey, perhaps you could post my written passages that most remind you of the evil wolf. Many thanks.
BooDawg
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Well, the pics of the old pins almost made me wet my pants. Thanks for sharing dudes!
Liked Chesslers response as well.
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swood
climber
Golden, CO
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These items are great and it is so good to hear how people are collecting and taking care of these significant items.
I also want to remind you that the American Alpine Club and the American Mountaineering Museum are great homes for historically significant climbing items.
There are many ways to donate or loan your items so that they do not get lost throughout the changes in family or time and can still be associated with you and yours at your discretion. This is also a great place where your items will be properly stored and cared for. I'm positive the Yosemite Museum offers something similar.
Donating items to a museum or archive is the best way to ensure your items are preserved for future generations, and is worth more to the community in the long run.
Contact us if you are interested in a donation or come by next time you are through Colorado and check out the museum and Alpine Club Library!
info@mountaineeringmuseum.org
http://www.mountaineeringmuseum.org
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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As a climber and a collector I really appreciated the pictures and information. In my early climbing days I had a Dolt pack which I gave to a friend who probably knew the significance; where I was clueless. Since then I have learn more and gone on to collect a bunch of old wooden ice axes and wall hammers with a host of signatures from Hillary to Beckey. The value of which is only significant to the climbing world.
I appreciate what Chessler said and has done. There is a value to the profession of climbing and the value of obscure climbing items. I have given stuff to Ken at YCA but frankly with these times; I think selling them and buying a camper for my truck seems like a more viable option. Collecting is an art as much as it is a passion.
As I see it Dolt not only revolutionized the hardware of climbing but was a pioneer and an innovator of the software as well. I hate to let go of some of my stuff but I may have to. For now I have some stuff I could let go of if anyone is interested. The prize is probably the Lowe cam. [photo[photoid=152020]id=152019]
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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plucked this out of the sandstone a few years ago. looks like it's home made bottle opener for todays use!
it would be nice to know what make this kind is?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Hmmmmm, Chesler, my old partner sold him an autographed Downward Bound for $100, listed two weeks later at $450, nice mark up. It was signed by Warren to Johnny Carson on the show. I had found the book in a used shop, two blocks from the climbing store I worked at.
You're really buffing yr credentials as a financial genius.
heh
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waitsfan
Sport climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2010 - 11:45am PT
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Well, they probably aren't worth anything...but I need to get them out of my office before they get too rusty (I work right by the ocean)...they are going on ebay in a matter of minutes.
Thanks!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 22, 2010 - 11:55am PT
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Boo- That nut tool holster is the only one that I have ever seen! Very cool collection that you have put together. Are you coming to the Sacherer memorial?
Waitsfan-Check your e-mail!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 14, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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BooDawg,
Great old gear for sure! Fun stuff! On your many pitons photo center row from top - piton #4, 5, 6, 7. Is there any markings on these blades? It is interesting that the biner hole tops are flat and flat angle to the hammer end.
Can we get a closer photo of these?
Also on the bolt hanger photo - far right side, can we get a closer photo of that Chouinard?/LONGware? rurp (w sling furthest right), and below a closer photo of the Dolt Bashchock (w sling)?
Rock on!
Marty
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Boulder Creek CA
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Jul 14, 2010 - 03:35am PT
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Most of those old European pitons look all too familiar to me from ones that I bought mail order to my parent's Idaho home from Sporthaus Shuster in the years before Yvon started selling his handmade SAE 4130 chromolly pins out of an old steamer trunk in the Tetons. The soft iron pins don't last very long with use. Mine were all worn out and used up by the early 60s along with a bunch of US Army 10th Mountain Corp ring angles and soft iron pins.
I do still have some of the earliest Chouinard pins, RURPs and biners.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Jul 14, 2010 - 07:53am PT
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Swoods: I’ll give the AAC museum some consideration, tho the Yosemite museum is where I feel my stuff should go. At some point soon, I’ll email Ken and YCA and discuss possibilities for both hardware and my Sheridan original.
Steve G.: Sorry I didn’t respond about the Sacherer Memorial; your post slipped past me, but I will be in Seattle around Aug 14-15; any chance you’ll be there?
By Aug. 20-30, I’ll be in the Yosemite-Tuolumne-Eastside area when I hope to see Ken of YCA and new and old friends who are there.
Marty: Thanks for the suggestions on more photos. I’ll try to post ‘em up soon. Thanks also for the email; I’ll respond soon as well. I actually have quite a few unused Dolt mashies. (I never really liked how their useful lives were so short and how long they could continue to mar the rock.)
Tom: I may be in the Cruz in mid or late Aug. Any chance you’ll be in the area or in the Park?
Ken
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 14, 2010 - 09:24am PT
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Were some of those pins used to create those nice little finger locks on Serenity Crack?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 14, 2010 - 10:06am PT
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Ken- I should be here so write me off line and I'll get contact info to you! A visit would be fun!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 14, 2010 - 10:32am PT
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Waitsfan graciously sold her collection to me recently and I will start a dedicated vintage hardware thread when I have the time. Some really nice pitons in that trove!
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James flythe
Sport climber
Spotsylvania
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dear sirs, was wondering if you could give me any info on some antique Austrian pitons that belonged to my father. Can send better images to an email address. I may be interested in parting with them, as I'm old, and fat, and don't climb anymore. Thanks, Jamie
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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That carabiner in the photo above made me think about Gerry Cunningham's invention of the 'triangular' carabiner in 1947. I haven't been able to find out much about it except scant info searching. Does anyone know the history?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Does this qualify as a piton? Placed by Maestri/Egger on Cerro Torre in 1959.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Hey James-I would be interested in buying your dad's hardware if you can send me some photos. As best I have been able to determine, pitons of this era that are stamped MADE IN AUSTRIA without any other markings were made by Austrialpin.
That is a Gerry carabiner and I haven't been able to find out much about its history.
If you want to contact me my email is: scgrossman (at) msn(dot)com
Cheers
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