Discussion Topic |
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Lionheart
Trad climber
Brier, Wa.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
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The myths, legends, pioneers, friends (etc.) of the 1960's climbing scene wanted here. Group photos with full names (yes, surnames too) from the Eight-Mile Campground and Bridge Creek Boulder cults. Memories, lies and contact info.
Don Leonard
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 25, 2010 - 07:57pm PT
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Hi Don,
I didn't get to Leavenworth until the early 80's first time.
Great place, but I can't help with the 60's guys.
Good luck!
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Feb 25, 2010 - 08:34pm PT
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My Mom was good friends with Gretchen Daiber, daughter of Ome Diaber BITD, but I was too young to see anything but how pretty Gretchen was. ;P
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 25, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
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Mr Lionheart,
You talkin' ta me? Huh?
I thought I scared ya off for gud! So, ya want more? :-D
Yeah, you've already been immortalized here, lol.
ps
I expect Sir Mastadon will rear his shaggy head here shortly.
MazamaRick should check in too. Nobody else bothers that I know of.
pps
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1075402&msg=1089932#msg1089932
pps
You'll get yur lies, for sure!
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Feb 25, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
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many passes through leavenworth starting in '74. got to rally with timson and brugger, stutzman, plumb, and even drug donini out
for a romp up ROTC on midnight. how's that for spray?
had a hippie homesteader buddy up the chumstick (hey it's valley, shees) whose junkyard housed my vanload of toys for years. each spring and fall i spent two-three, six-eight weeks based at his digs there, dirt biking, logging, milling, haying, pruning, building, brewing, wrenching, planting, pickin' and grinnin'. i feel like i got raised in the 1930's by a guy one year my junior.
i guess two seasons only counts for an associate degree in fruit tramp, but arriving in wenatchee by boxcar assures the proper patina. street polka in amongst der dirndil schnockers, worth cleaning up for
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:20am PT
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I didn't get to L'worth till the spring of '78 and, hell, even the Trigger Finger was gone by then.
Ha, you're such a baby. I was there at least three years before you, and climbed on the Trigger Finger.
But, like you, I was just an occasional visitor, not a local. So can't help much with connections to the 60s crew. However...
got to rally with timson and brugger, stutzman, plumb, and even drug donini out
However, I can vouch for the fact that at least a couple of those folks are still at it. Pat Timson is a regular at the local gym, and I assume he's still active outdoors. And we see Julie Brugger regularly, both at the gym and on the rock. The others I don't know, 'cept for Donini, by reputation. And I don't think he climbs here much these days.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:28am PT
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Not on your list either in this thread or the Squamish one, but Don McPherson might be known to you. He is up in Vancouver and only lately retired from a fairly active trail-building program.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:29am PT
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Donini was late to the party. Too bad he
wasted his time at those wannabe areas.
Timson: "Where's that Mastadon with my clean pants?"
(Those are Julies' shoes next to Pats')
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:11am PT
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When did the Trigger Finger come down ? I have a pic of my father on top, probably from the early 1970's.
He had an old Fred Beckey guidebook with Damnation and Angel Cracks rated 5.7 (?)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:17am PT
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Trigger Finger collapsed in the winter of 1978-79.
The Beckey/Bjørnstad 1965 orange-cover guidebook to Leavenworth, which may have been the first, rates Damnation and Angel Crack as 5.8.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:20am PT
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The Beckey/Bjørnstad 1965 orange-cover guidebook to Leavenworth, which may have been the first, rates Damnation and Angel Crack as 5.8.
They're not 5.8?
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:29am PT
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Thanks, Anders. I guess it was 5.8.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:39am PT
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Aw hell, I didn't get to L'worth till the spring of the 21st century. and I have only climbed there about a half dozen times but I did meet Don Claunch Gordon recently. Does he qualify? He still lives here in Seattle . What do you want to know?
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful BC
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:57am PT
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My very first climbing road trip was to Leavenworth in '78. Roller Coaster ... a sweet 5.8 Leavenworth chimney to remember
The whole place was a "trip" ...
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 03:13am PT
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There used to be some good fishing in the area...
I felt right away that the place had a good vibe. Quaint little town nearby, nice campgrounds, access to higher peaks, nice water, good fruit in season, nice granite and even some funky sandstone nearby for a distraction. How can you go wrong. Even in the heat of summer, you can find some shade.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 26, 2010 - 09:44am PT
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Did someone mention Leavenworth?? Had a few adventures there.....
Damnation Crack, 1971
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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Started climbing in Leavenworth in 1975 when I was 15. Man it was a different place back then crashing at the base of Classic Crack with a bonfire, climbing it over and over. Also was when I made my first trip into the Enchantments and peak bagged for a week and all I could think about on the way out is getting a ice cold grape crush soda.
err, hate to admit it but perhaps me and my friends were somewhat responsible for Trigger Finger falling over. We were out climbing at the Pinnacles and decided it would be cool to see how many people we could get on the "summit". I think we had about 10 guys hanging off those old bolt hangers, oh the joy of being stupid teenagers. Then rapped off. A couple days later it fell over. Holy Shikees!!!
We said our prayers of thanks that night, and learned a valuable lesson about the instability of rock without getting killed by it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
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My very first climbing road trip was to Leavenworth in '78
Same here, but a few years earlier. One enduring memory of that trip was catching a 30-foot factor-1 winger. Hip belay, but no problem. When I untangled my head from my partner's feet and looked up, there was blood all over one section of the rock. We both panicked for a moment until we realized that Paul wasn't in pain and didn't appear to be bleeding. He was wearing knickers with long wool socks. Red wool socks. And a bunch of fuzz had scraped off one of his socks where it grazed the rock.
But the big deal was that it gave this noob faith that the protection system actually worked.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
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I heard that Trigger Finger fell over because it had been used as a scratching post by ferocious bloodthirsty giant Canadian wolves™.
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Chief
climber
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
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Didn't get to Leavenworth till 76.
It was a Canadian spring ritual, so many great memories.
Starlit nights and cool clear mornings at the Icicle Creek campground.
Pastries at Das Bakery und pints und pizza at Gustav's.
Pat and Julie were kind of like royalty, LeDuc a comedian and monster free climber. Donini would check up on us now and then, "Good job Perry, you're almost at the hard part!" The late John Stoddard was one of the few Washington regulars up to Squamish back then. RIP John.
Looking forward to photos.
Edit; I have been picking with Rob Newsom every year at Wintergrass.
He's become an accomplished winemaker (vinter?) and a not bad guitar player.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
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I did Trigger Finger in 1974 with my dad - I sat on top and gave him a hip belay. Good thing he didn't fall!
My high school math teacher, Ron Linebarger, climbed in Leavenworth in the late 60s. He knew Ron Burgner, Greg Donaldson, etc.
In 1975 I climbed some with Bob Plumb, Wade Harness, Rich _ and Marc who shared a house in Wenatchee. And I met Tom McGee once; he lived in Leavenworth.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
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As Reilly said, I came late to the party. I'm nostalgic for the place, a function of the ageing process. Wouldn't mind heading over there in late May/early June if some of you can show up. Think of the lies we can tell around the campfire.
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Chief
climber
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Feb 26, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
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Jim,
Set the date, if it doesn't conflict with my efforts at Bute, I'll be there.
It'd be great to see old friends around a campfire at the Icicle.
While I'm at it Jim, what about this Bute thing?
I think it should be on any caring mountaineer's radar.
Best to all.
PB
A long weekend get together in Leavenworth? Absolutely!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 26, 2010 - 03:19pm PT
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The first weekend in June. How is Butte in July? I'd love to sample the delights.
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Chief
climber
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Feb 26, 2010 - 03:24pm PT
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Jim,
First weekend in June in Leavenworth is on the calendar.
Bute in July?
Main stem of the big streams blown out and silty.
Phenomenal horseflies and assorted bugmosis.
Alpine plums hanging over the valleys.
Dreamy.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 26, 2010 - 03:30pm PT
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Ah....er....August!
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Chief
climber
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Feb 26, 2010 - 03:34pm PT
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Yup,
Side streams clearer in the AM, terrestrials on the skitter.
Alpine firming up at night for crunchy crampons in the AM.
We'll discuss the details at the Leavenworth get together.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 26, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
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It's all starting to come back to me....
Bruce Albert, Classic Crack, 1971
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Chief
climber
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Feb 26, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
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I remember Eric Weinstein, Rick and others soloing up in the dark, drunk, to see who could place an empty beer can the highest. Eric placed a high one and went for the summit. RIP Eric.
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bmacd
Trad climber
Washedup, Hasbeen, BC
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Feb 26, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
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mastadon more pictures please ... great memories
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Lionheart
Trad climber
Brier, Wa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2010 - 07:25pm PT
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To MisterE,
Ome and my climbing menter Larch Douglass (passed) were good friends. In the 70's Dave Davis, Tom Nephew and I had seconded his scrumptious 1940's(?) Mt. Shucksan Hanging Glacier Route. Tom and I had to share my brand new Chounard ice-axe, which dropped down a crevasse midway up the headwall. "Uh, hey you guys," from above, "if these seracs crackle and moan any louder they'll break into a chorus." Dave had a flair for understating danger . . . sometimes.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 26, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
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"more pictures please"
I can do this....
Deb's Crack, early 70's
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 27, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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Ron Burgner-early 70's.....
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 27, 2010 - 01:16am PT
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Mr Lionheart headed for the Lithuanian Lip - not
exactly Leavenworth but definitely east side.
Nice shot of Burgner Masta! Glad I never had to arm wrestle that dude!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 27, 2010 - 01:31am PT
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Peshastin, 1974. I don't think Trigger Finger is quite visible.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Feb 27, 2010 - 03:07am PT
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Reilly, the fixed tat at the roof, on closer inspection, seems to be missing? LOL!
We did that one and the Barber Pole - kept looking at the Thin Red Line, but never got around to it, even though the Barber Pole kept pushing us that way...
Nice pic, and...
thanks for the response, Mr. Lionheart. I haven't thought of those family friends for a very long time.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 27, 2010 - 03:52am PT
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Is that a younger, Mightier Hiker in that pic, Anders?
Otherwise, I see some great old pics on this here thread. Keep it up, men and women.
I still think there are some more good times to be had there...
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 27, 2010 - 07:02am PT
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Found an envelope of 35mm B&W negatives last year that I'd never printed. I had no idea what they were of and couldn't tell by just looking at them. It was like seeing a ghost when their images started to take shape from my scanner. Most of them were of our erstwhile friend, Dave Anderson.
Dave Anderson, Icicle Canyon early 70's, RIP brother
Julie Brugger (still kicking), Peshastin Pinnicles, same trip early 70's. Cal Folsom in the background
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 27, 2010 - 11:10am PT
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Eightmile bridge, 1971
Anyone remember the old Eightmile cabin?? Spent a few nights in there with all the critters. It was demolished in the mid 70's or somewhere thereabouts.
Come on now-I could use some help here. Am I the only one that had a camera back then??
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Feb 27, 2010 - 02:52pm PT
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I remember the 8mile cabin. I lived in it for a week when I ran away from home at 16.I thought there would be climbers. After starving for a week, I went home.
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Chief
climber
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Feb 27, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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Nice to hear from you on this thread Dick!
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 27, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
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Doug McCarty, just loafing around at Midnight Rock, 1972
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 27, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
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Dick, did ya learn your lesson? HaHaHaHa!
Nice, Don. I'd forgotten McCarty.
That reminds me of the time I went there midweek by myself about '71 I'm
guessing. I don't think I was quite so naive as to expect there to be
anybody there. There wasn't save for some old (60ish? HaHaHa) cowboy
living out of his '63 Bonneville convertible at Rat Creek. He was straight
out of a Zane Grey/Steinbeck cross-novel. He nipped at the bottle a bit
but he didn't seem to be a drunk. He just loved his freedom and
the great outdoors. He didn't seem to be hurting for cash either.
I must say it was one of the most interesting nights around a campfire
I've ever had. The one thing that stands out the most was his talking
about making friends with the animals; all of 'em. He swore that if you
took your clothes off they lost all fear of you as you were then one of
them. He didn't demonstrate, he just suggested I try it sometime.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 27, 2010 - 04:20pm PT
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A very young Bruce Albert at Eightmile Rock, 1971
Bruce lives in Index. I think he is even mayor of the town...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 27, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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How in the hell did a Leavenworth climber end up in Monrovia, Ca.? Index I can understand.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 27, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
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How in the hell did a Leavenworth climber end up in Monrovia, Ca.?
Jim, the Witness Protection people gave me a choice of the two Monrovias
so the Californicate one looked real gud! There is climbing here, you know?
Sadly, this is all I have regarding Marc Weigelt. I didn't own a lens
capable of capturing his largeness. I hope this still graces its spot
in the Enchantments.
He was a monster, in a good sense. Strong? Ya think? It was related to me by a witness that they had a flat on I-5. After putting the spare on
Marc brushed the lug wrench aside, "We don't need that thing!" He then proceeded to tighten the nuts by hand. They made it a surprisingly long way before the inevitable occurred.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 27, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
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Mr Reilly Sir,
Where and when did you see that wooden plaque? Are you sure that it was for Weigelt? I always thought that he spelled his name Mark.
That plaque looks like something that Marc Emerson's dad would have made for Marc after he was killed on Castle Rock in 1970.
Peshastin Pinnicles, 1972
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 27, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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Mastadon: Mari (my wife) is headed out climbing with Julie Brugger at some ridiculous hour tomorrow morning. I showed her your picture, with the caption covered up, and she said. "Huh? Why is Julie wearing those old-fashioned clothes?"
When I said it was because the picture was taken 35 years ago, she could hardly believe it. Julie hasn't changed a lot.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 27, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
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Masta,
If you're going to insist on rubbing my face into my senility
we can take this out into the parking lot. I always thought it
was with a 'k' too which is why I was cornfused when I came
across this slide. I think it was just above the lake a little
west of Prusik Pk but we already know better than to trust my
memory. Oh well, it is a fitting tribute to all of 'em.
contritely yours
ps
Did you keep a journal or is your memory that good?
Maybe I spent too much time around Crawdaddy and his ilk.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 27, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
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Don,
Thanks for sharing your cool photos.
Especially that last one on Orchard Rock -
that climb was one of my favorites.
It's been far too long since I've done that thing.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 27, 2010 - 09:54pm PT
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Mr Cummins Sir,
It's been a long time since I've been on that, also-38 years.......
"cool photos"..... plenty more where that came from!
Steve Ansell on our way up to do the Stanley/Burgner route on the south face of Prussik in the mid 70's.
Steve bouldering in the Enchantments on the same trip
Steve was one of the most talented and intense climbers of our Seattle group but he had to make a choice of continuing climbing or continuing his career as a concert violist. He chose wisely and became a professor at the University of Houston when he was 18 and continued on to teach at Juliard shortly thereafter. He now resides in Mass. and is a member of the Boston symphony. We both thought that the south face of Prussik was exceptionally hard for 5.9 (I had just spent the previous three months free climbing in The Trench and was sketched on one of the Prussik pitches) (go figure).
I'm going to call Marc Emerson's mother (who I still keep in touch with) tomorrow and ask her about the plaque. I don't know if she's ever seen it. Dick, Marc's dad, died in the late 80's. What year did you take that picture??
---
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Chief
climber
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Feb 27, 2010 - 10:17pm PT
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How's about more pictures of Julie.
Seems deserving of goddess or significant deity status.
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BEA
climber
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Feb 27, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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I think I can help a bit on the "Marc" plaque. According to Pat Emerson Dick carved a wooden memorial plaque for his son Marc and the summer following Marc's death Dick and Pat went into the Enchantments. Dick then went off one day with the plaque & put it up somewhere. Pat didn't say where and I sort of doubt that she knew.
Informed conjecture suggests to me that the one in the photo above is the same one.
Part of me would like to stumble upon that; all of me doesn't want to be told exactly where it lies. Bet it's turned really pretty by now.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 27, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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Perry - Tell yer wife to say HI from ME to Julie
I expect that one day I'll be old and senile like you, and unable to keep threads and posters straight in my mind.
But until then, I'll ask my wife to say hi to Julie for you. And Perry can tell his wife (if he is married), that his old pal Tami asked her to pass on greetings to someone she didn't know.
Which is kind of a long-winded way of saying... "Yer a dumbot."
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Younkin
Mountain climber
Utah
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Feb 27, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
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I grew up in Wenatchee and took a climbing class from Bill Asplund, we climber our first routes in Peshastin Pinnacles. I climbed trigger finger many times and even did it in the dark by feel only once. Some of the people I climbed with were Laurie Fink, Bob Plumb, Larry Weis, Bill Lingley, Julie Brugger, Mark Weigelt (I spoke at his funeral, he was a great loss), Jay Ossieander and many others. I loved climbing Classic Crack, I have a memory of climbing Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall with Mark, I almost hit the ledge after a fall because Mark was sorting the rope out. I did a Winter Climb of Mount Stuart with Mark and Jay which included a memorable snow avalanche off Stuart Glacier. Mount Stuart is my favorite Mountain, I loved doing Sherpa Glacier (summer and winter) and the North Ridge. I hiked into Mountaineer Creek Basin more times than I want to remember. Some of my favorite bivouacs were in that area.
I remember giving Bill Lingley tension on White Bird? overhang on Castle Rock so he could BA those below on the ledge. I wish I still weighed 160, LOL Jim Younkin
younkin@gmail.com
CNG Blog www.younkincng.com
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Chief
climber
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Feb 27, 2010 - 11:40pm PT
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Ghost, thanks man, Tami had me struggling there.
If someone does get a chance, say hi to Julie for me.
Tami, Nadine says hi, ya nutbar!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 27, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
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Ghost, thanks man, Tami had me struggling there.
Perry, I've struggled with Tami for over thirty years now. It don't ever get easier, but I'm sort of used to it.
David
Edit: Okay, I'll ask her to pass on greetings from you, too.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 28, 2010 - 12:27am PT
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BEA-how do you know all that??
Edit: Never mind. I think I just figured it out. It might be about time YOU posted some L-worth pictures......
--
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Feb 28, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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After a bar night in Leavenworth ----for more comic relief, here is a photo of me working across an iced up log on Mountaineer Creek, while suffering up to a winter ascent of N.E. Face Colchuck around 1981.
Another El Nino winter. Early Jan snow was never deeper than 18” on the approach.
High on Colchuck: looking back down to Colchuck Lake & Mountaineer Creek, then north towards Icicle Cr.
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Max
Social climber
outer space
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Feb 28, 2010 - 01:31am PT
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Very cool to see this thread, every once in a while (pretty frequently I guess) supertaco provides.
I've been living in L-town (and Peshastin, recently relocated to Leavenworth proper) for the past 5 years. After running out of cash in Squamish I connected with Yosemite friends in Seattle and they introduced me to little Bavaria. No place is perfect but Leavenworth does a pretty good job of satisfying my needs.
Last week I met Bill Prater who was part of the first ascent of Sherpa Peak (summit to Stuart's left with balanced rock), he lives in Cle Elum and at 83 still rambles up the hills around there. Fred Stanley also lives in Ellensburg, he was on the first ascent of the infamous Gendarme of Stuart's upper North Ridge. I'm so inspired by these pioneers and grateful that they're still around.
I work at Gustavs (just for money) and from what I hear it used to be a lot cooler and more climber friendly. There are some old climbing prints tucked away upstairs and I heard a rumor that climbers got free food/beer for providing these decorations. True/False?
Anyway, keep the bitd photos and stories coming. If an old-dad reunion becomes a reality this spring I'd love to meet some of you guys (and gals), maybe even go climbing!
-Max Hasson
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Lionheart
Trad climber
Brier, Wa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2010 - 02:35am PT
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Mastadon,
Steve Ansell shots...wow. Al Givler and Jim Langdon took Steve & I on our first rock climbs. Showed us their pitons, web harnesses. Included some FAs in the Enchantments. He was 12, and I was 14. We climbed the next several months together and then I never saw him again. Thought he quit that first season--Never thought I'd see him immortalized on a climbing site. And now you show him with a beard! He must've been avoiding me...or matured awfully fast. Priceless!
Hey..."RIP" Dave Anderson? No s***! What happened?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 28, 2010 - 03:14am PT
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Don L,
Dave Anderson died in January 1998 (age 43). He was injured in a small avalanche near Salt Lake City (broke both legs and hip), but was evacuated OK to the road. A helicopter was then to transport him to the hospital, but it crashed shortly after takeoff, killing Dave and 3 rescuers.
http://www.avalanche-center.org/Incidents/1997-98/19980111a-Utah.php
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Lionheart
Trad climber
Brier, Wa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2010 - 05:46am PT
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Thanx Clint; So, of the mid-70's Doorish Climber's House, Dave Anderson and Catherine Freer cut-out w/honors, I chickened souped, and Pete is starting to rack as many FAs as Becky....All that's left is Cal Folsom--what's he doin? -Anybody?
And about Anderson--what a loss. His positive outlook stood out as much as his climbing ability. Dang!
And how about the Greenwood House (Carlsted, Antarctica Kieth, et. al.)?
The Seattle core was tight back then.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 28, 2010 - 11:53am PT
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I was going to CWU in E-burg back in 1977-82 and went out with the climbing club a few times. Fred Stanley was a prof and headed the group and I was amazed to watch him lead Washboard(10d) on Grand Central Tower at Peshastin in mountain boots. Mild mannered professor was bad ass climber.
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 28, 2010 - 11:53am PT
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Don,
You need to make it to the WA climber's picnic at lower Woodland more often, your questions would be answered.
Attendees last year:
Dalby, Harniss, Langdon, Marts, Gonzalez, Carlstad, Davis, Hansen, Firey/McCarthy, Joe Firey, Harder, Swedin, Daley's, Heath/Daiber, Hyatt, Cruver, Brugger, Tarver, Silva and several others my ailing memory can't recall.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 28, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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OK, Mr Leonard. You need to get with the program. Most of the people we used to associate with are still around. You’re the one that disappeared. I’ve got dozens of slides of our winter attempt of Thin Red Line. Since scanning and posting takes a fekkin’ lot of time, so you won’t see them for a while.
Time to hit the wayback machine. Some of these pictures are re-posts and they’re not all L-Worth but they’re all Washingtonians or ex-Tonians.
Donn Heller Liberty Bell 1971. I’ll keep your spirit alive, brother.
Tom Kuehn El Cap ’74 or so. I wonder where Tom is now??
Timson, bus stop outside the Ahwahnee, early spring ’74 or so. Can you tell what book he’s reading
Gary Palmer (of the Demented Household fame), L-Worth ’76. He actually had hair then….
Steve Ansell outside Roosevelt High school 1970 or so. His parents thought this was the best picture ever taken of him. I’ll be seeing him in a couple weeks. He’s coming to my area for a “bridge tournament” of all things (what sort of place have we come to?)
Cal Folsom, his then-wife, and Dave Anderson at J-tree, mid ‘80’s
Russel Erickson Squamish mid 80’s
Dave Davis, Town Wall mid 80’s
Rick LeDuc, Tuolumne 1980
Anne Tarver, Tuolumne 1980
Lenny Peoples, sun worshipper, Midnight Rock 1977
"Birds sing after a storm, why shouldn't people feel as free to delight in whatever sunlight remains to them" Rose Kennedy.
Ron Burgner on our ill-fated winter Liberty Bell trip with Nephew’s dogs Zipper and Yoey and, I think, Don Leonard’s head in the background, 1973
A picture is worth a thousand words. What a bunch of low-life losers. From right to left: Kit Lewis, Rob Harris, Lenny Peoples, and me, Squamish 1977
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Chief
climber
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Feb 28, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
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Holy stabs from the past Batman.
Thanks for the photos!
What about Donini's plans for first weekend in June?
I probably won't be able to climb, but I'll be able to curl a pint, hold a rope or point in a nostalgic and maudlin fashion.
Edit;
Jim says pints and war stories at Gustav's, 20:00 Saturday, June 5.
Perry
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 28, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
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Didn't Russel Erickson use to hang out at the UW climbing rock summer evenings? He spoke in kind of a quiet voice, like "hey, how you doing? Yeah,yeah I can send that.."
Kit Lewis used to hang with Jim Nelson allot and Quinn Conig. Those guys were a little obnoxious when they had been drinking! I was in Boy Scouts with Jim and he used to make us younger scouts swim swamps and things like that to toughen us up, I didn't think it was that funny at the time.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 28, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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I want to know what happened to that fabulous photo of Stanley
doing Angel Crack in his boots which hung at Der Sportsman.
The 'Marc' slide says JUL 75 on it and now I'm wondering if I
took it up at Asgaard Pass. A mind is a terrible thing to
waste away.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 28, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
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Perhaps there should be a get together of all who can remember being served "beer" in Der Sportsmann, in galvanized buckets.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 28, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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Quin was one of the strangest rangers I've ever met.
Nice enough, but strange. Never woulda tied on with him for money.
He does have a darn nice route in Darrington named for him though.
Y'all ever hear about his 1500' ride down the N Face of Monte Cristo?
Barely fazed him.
Mike Heath as he looked starring in a Wausau Insurance commercial
that aired on 60 Minutes. Filmed at Mt Baker and Castle Rock.
(I know, the white balance sucks)
For those who don't know he founded the Swallow's Nest with Bill Sumner.
For the Cali crowd he is the same who did the Aiguille Extra route.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Feb 28, 2010 - 04:20pm PT
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Not White Balance, "temperature" and "cast"
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Feb 28, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
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Timson - reading Coming Into the Country by McPhee?
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Feb 28, 2010 - 10:22pm PT
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First time in Der town was '73.
GCT in th '90s
Liberty Crack in '74
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 28, 2010 - 11:16pm PT
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Desert Solitaire
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truclimber
Trad climber
Nevada
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This is a really cool thread. Growing up in WA
Knowing how cool the people are up there really makes me miss it.
My first hanging belay on gear was in LWorth. I know that dates me.
Really cool getting to the history of the climbers of where I come from, something that I would have never known if it weren't for this thread.
Makes me proud.
B
I gotta get my butt up there and do some more climbing.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Way cool thread. Maybe some of the gifted Supertopians here could help these guys that took their time to scan all these cool old photos and fix em up a bit. As long as nobody minds?
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Wayno,
Here's a couple of bj's darkest ones
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
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Whats going on in modern day Leavenwirth ? Has it had the same kind of surge in interest that Squamish has seen since the mid 90's ?
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Plumbbob
Mountain climber
Juneau, AK
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What a great thread!
So many people that have posted here that I got to know years ago. In the 1970's I had the good fortune to live in a house on Wilson St. and on weekends many climbers crashed there.
I was part of a group from Wenatchee that started in the Wenatchee High School Alpine club in 1971. Don Young, Brad Rogers, Marth Bean, Lori Fink gave me my introduction to climbing and then we were mentored by older clibers that included Mark Weiglt, and Julie Bruger. They taught us to climb clean and free. We were inspired by the routes that we were told about that had been put up by Mead Hargis and Del Young who hailed from the "East Side".
When I get home to Juneau I will start to post some pictures to this thread and site. I have lots of old pictures from BITD.
The photo of the climber wearing boots on angel crack is hanging in Gordon and Natalie Briodies living room in Leavenworth. Her family owned the place it used to hang.
Bob Plumb
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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I was thinking about hosting a "git together" here in Mazama in late September or the 1st week Oct. Several sports crags within walking distance, Washington Pass Liberty Bell, Cutthroat, Kangaroo Ridge- 15 miles away and a slew of mtn. bike and road riding on the MVSTA trails/FS rds. Would that work? June could work as well, just a bit shorter notice that's all. It's an option if anyone's interested.
rl
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Late September gets my vote.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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how about Rick Graham and Greg McKenna and Frank Swife and Ken Abeta, anyone know whatever happened to those guys? Still out getting it done?
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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McKenna still climbs, he has a place over here (Methow Valley)so I see him often. He did Liberty Crack last year with Timson and the W. Face of El Cap last fall. Not bad for a guy with 32 kids and a full time job!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I'd be quite interested, but the Yosemite FaceLift is September 23rd - 27th this year. Sometime in early October may be better - perhaps October 9th & 10th, which happens to be Canucklehead thanksgiving?
I could possibly show some of my photos from the Climbing at Squamish in the 1970s thread - many are now on CD, and I used them for my presentation at VIMFF. Plus Dave and Dave might be interested in coming, or at least agree to my showing the Sentry Box video. Maybe Perry could be talked into coming, too.
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Chief
climber
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Anders, while I'd have to stop short of calling you an attractive man, I don't think a face lift is necessary.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Abraham Lincoln: God must have liked ordinary-looking people, because he made so many of them.
So there!
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Early Octo would work just as long as it doesn't coincide with the opening of the general hunting season. Perry, could you make it? It'd be awesome to get the Sqaumish hardcore together again!
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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There was a good collection of climbing photos from the late '70s to early '80s lost in Gustav's fire. Although the photos could have been any vintage prior to the fire. Most if not all were traded to the climbers for free food. That would be a fun collection to dupicate here as well.
I have a few around somewhere I'll dig up. Anyone else out there trade out photos for food (was it Mike?) bitd?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Maybe a Flying Leonard will drop into the git-down...
Linda Givler doing justice to her blue suede shoes (ok, also her jeans)
Today's Mystery Crag!
Many know it as Too Far to Walk Rock. To me that moniker rests
firmly on the broad shoulders of The Mole. With visions of 'big wall'
solo stardom dancing before my eyes I humped a hundred pounder up there.
By the time I actually got into a position to abuse something besides
myself I was totally knackered. I also had the good excuse of having to
be back to work the next day. Luckily it was a big snow year so with a
mighty "See ya later sucker!" I kicked said pig off the col at the head
of Rat Creek and watched it go at least halfway to Icicle Creek.
The Too Far to Walk Rock above saw us a few pitches up. I led over an
overhang and started hauling. Of course the sow got hung on the lip.
The party to the second party, who shall remain nameless (unless he does me
further aggravation), jugged up and freed it. Then he came up and helped
haul the last 40'. It hung again on a small something so I leaned out to
pull it clear while the party to the second party heaved. With a mighty
"TWANG" I was suddenly holding 20' of slack as I watched our dearly
departed drop to the slabs below. The magnificent eruption was only
matched by the greater eruption of wailing from the owners of the extensive
collection of Pentax and Bolex Super 8 camera gear now liberally festooning
the slopes below. The party to the second party, who tied yon deflated
porcine nonentity, tried to disappear back into the bong that spawned this
sad tale but, as the saying goes, that was smoke up the chimney. We are
still friends.
Bonus blast from the past:
Steve Barnett of the Barnett Self-Belay System. Hey, it worked once
you got it dialed in even if it took half the day.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Steve Barnett---HA! I wonder whatever happened to him.
I'm almost afraid to post any more pictures 'cause I've probably pissed all my old friends off by subjecting their pictures to the internet. Even the ones who've died- they probably can't wait for me to check out so they can kick my ass in the afterlife.
---
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Yah, pretty much like that.... I'd forgotten about those. I'm gonna have some 'splainen to do.
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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The North Face of the Mole !
Did that one in '74 with Bruce Blume. A really cool otherworldly place with great views.
The most memorable parts of the climb were the terrifying rappels off the top from really crappy 1/4" bolts into a chasm filled with giant knife like flakes.
Also, during the long , long hike back down the screws that held the soles onto my Kronhoffers worked through into the inside of the shoes.
Any news on Bruces whereabouts?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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The Mole, The Duolith. The Blockhouse. Rat Creek and Hook Creek and Edwards Mesa and Tolketie and Coney lake. What amazing places high in the sky above Leavenworth. One of my partners was up and down Tolketie lately and he said it is not the way to go into the Lost World Plateau anymore as so much deadfall from the fire blocks the trail now. Anyone ever been to the mountain lion caves(as we call em) on Edwards mesa? Or climbed the different summits of the Comb? Exceptionally amazing spires with all of eastern Washington as a backdrop 6000 feet below your heels
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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When does hunting season start? How about October 2nd & 3rd? Maybe Tami would come to the Methow, too.
It it's October 2/3, then I could stop there on the way back from the FaceLift.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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It seems like Barnett packed it in by the late 70's and
became Mr Telemark. I'm quite sure he moved to Winthrop and
I thought he was involved in the first heli-ski business up there.
Mazama should know.
Oh, as regards the photo, uh, I don't think he was soloing.
Of course some of my partners often felt they were.
"Hey, Doofus! Wake the phuk up!"
So is that poor pathetic tree on Yellowbird still hanging on for dear life?
Another aspect of Leavenworth that needs to be addressed is the
buzzworm issue. As someone who has climbed there, the Valley, the Southern
Sierras, and all through the desert, I aver that the buzzworms/acre
in the Leavenworth area is unsurpassed. I remember going up to
Midnight one cool fall morning. Right above Castle Rock the trail goes
around a big tree. Just before the tree is a boulder that everybody
naturally puts their left hand on. Just as I was about to do so I saw
the little feller curled up in the dish-like depression on top. Being a
buzzworm lover and seeing as how it was a weekday I figgered we'd be the
only ones up there all day. So it was and on the way down he was still
there although he'd warmed up to the point of stirring as we walked by two
feet away.
My best story is a Weigelt story. We'd been up at Givler's Dome. On the way down Mark walked by a big overhanging boulder. In a flash he practically leaped into my arms or at the least didn't even see me as he
exited the scene. It was a friggin' monster all right; easily a Burgner
forearm and pushing 7'. Mark was so worked up he started racing downhill
which naturally caused all of us to do so whooping and hollering all the way to the road.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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One evening around 1980 or so coming down the trail from Midnight my friend Stan jumped over a massive timber rattler must have been 10 feet long and massively thick body. It had curled up in the trail and we were jogging down and he ran over the top of it, and then turned and screamed at me to stop. It took me a minute to understand what he was saying and even longer to see the snake it was so well camoflauged on the trail. Never before or since have i seen a rattler even close to that big. Granddaddy of them all we figured.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Stud,
I was going to say ours was that big too but according to the
literature the N. Pacific Rattler only reaches 5' so I decided
to say 7' so as not to appear to daffy. But I am pretty sure it
was over 8'. What the hell do those academics know? It sure as
hell was way over 5'. I'll post some pics I took of Jim McCarthy
and me playin' with 'em - not the monster. He's even more goofy
than me when it comes to them things.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Barnett lives in Ferndale and is skiing in the Baker area backcountry almost every day. He has even been at Squamish a few times over the last several years.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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The power of Stupor Torpor!!!!!!!!
Say howdy to him, will ya? And tell him he's more famous now!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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BUZZWORMS!!
We always heard the rumors. Fall of 1974, Bruce Franks and I wandered up to some attractive, but easy looking, cliffs on the north side of the Icicle, near eight-mile campground.
Bruce got buzzed on the way up. We did a 3-4 lead route that featured a stove-sized rock at a belay spot. The rock would start to lean out to fall, when you put your feet on it.
Shortly after we started down: we both got buzzed by an invisible snake.
We found long sticks, and beat our way down to the road like blind men.
I emailed this link to Bruce and he adds this version of above story.
Wow, I tell this story often but add the evening events at the bar to my version.
We started up the slope to the rock only to run into not just one buzz worm but three. After we got to the rock we (I) was so shook up that each pitch I would lean way out from the rock completely convinced a buzzer was waiting for me on the next ledge or in any crack.
After we finished climbing we did beat our way down to the road. Then the first thing we did was hit the Der Sportsman bar in Leavenworth.
Roger was tending bar and asked what happened to us. It seems we looked pretty pale and sickly. First we ordered shots and beers then settled into our tale of woe. After a while he just broke out laughing at us, the reason was, as he put it: all the locals knew there was a large den of buzzers up that slope and no one climbed or even hiked there. It was a pretty drunk night.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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McCarthy? A snake nut? I'd never have believed it. Maybe I should introduce him to a cousin from Norway, who's a veterinarian and snake addict. He even owns property in Arizona, and goes there every year to look at worms. (Leaving this Friday, I think.)
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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yeah Reilly, I know what you mean, I looked up snakes also and it said they only get 5-6 feet max. But I saw this snake stretched out as I threw a rock at it to chase it off the trail, and it started slithering down the trail towards Stan. He screamed like a girl and took off down the trail like a missile. But that snake was 10 feet, very very long and thick. I am sure there must be more of them up in them thar hills around Leavenworth.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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A snake nut? I'd never have believed it.
Well, he is a rock climber so it isn't too big a stretch!
But if ya pick 'em up and play with 'em yur a nut! Believe me,
it takes one to know one. I also recall him telling me how he
learned to rappell as a youngster so he could raid Prairie Falcon
nests down by Yakima. He said he had to wear a leather jacket
and a helmet. I know this doesn't sound too PC these days
but ya haveta put it into context.
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Ron Cotman
climber
Seattle/L-town
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Nice old pics! I'm a new comer (90's) but have met a few of you and run across many of your relics in the most unlikely areas. That "mystery crag" (too far to walk rock) pic looks like The Cobra. Keep the photos and stories coming!
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Lionheart
Trad climber
Brier, Wa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2010 - 03:00am PT
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Then there's the story of the guy hefting up the solution-hole on Corkscrew (Peshastin Pinnacles) and got his head banged by a nesting owl. A 20' spill. Broke his glasses in two. They were all Drew Carey Frames back then. I think it's true, but y'know a kid'll justify anything to their mommy's optomologist...or to bum a vicodin.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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The Mole and the Mole Knackered Dope
Here's one of genuine historical interest. The jolly crew
in their snow cave girding their loins for the coming battle!
Jay Ossiander, his partner whose name escapes me, and the lame
photog. I had my usual mid-week days off so went up for a little
winter leg stretching and ran into these guys. After the obligatory
shot they went up and did the FWA of the N Ridge of Stuart and I
went up the Ice Cliff Gl. March '76
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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While he couldn't really be considered part of the
Leavenworth scene I did drag him away from his day
job as Chief Guide for RMI for some fun in the sun.
Dusan Jagerski was a major stone hound in his native
Tatra Mts of Czechoslovakia and did quite a number of
impressive FA's. Then as a member of the Czech junior
national ski team he suffered the fate of many who ran
downhill BITD in Marker long-thongs; yes, major ankle
rearrangement. Orthopedic surgery was pretty cave back
then behind the Iron Curtain so snow and ice became his
preferred medium; rock climbing, even in RR's, was painful
for him as it would be for anybody with zero ankle flexion.
I am fairly certain that 'trick ankle' is what did him and
Givler in. It almost did Dusan and me in. We were descending
Liberty Ridge in the dark after our FWA of Central Buttress-Willis Wall.
I had a broken foot already (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/919753/Hot_Times-Cool_Pics);
but my Makalus made a marvelous 'walking cast'. We got into some really nasty wind crust
and Dusan's ankle took him down a couple of times in the dark.
RIP bro
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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That guy next to Ossiander kind of looks like Craig McKibben(sp?)......
Did Ossiander ever introduce you to the "Quick Quacker Quacker?" Ruined a few brain cells with that.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Cool story Tami and awesome photos guys, nice!
Speaking of beer in Leavenworth. Anybody ever drink any Koombachers I think they were called? They had Koombachers beer at that bar near Gustavs, it was across the street and downstairs, wild place on a Friday night. Only place I ever saw Koombachers was there in Leavenworth and they were good brewskies back in the day, quite tasty.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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McKibben it was! Don, are you a member of Mensa?
Do tell about the Quackers!
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Mensa? Are those guys that have monthly cycles/periods? I guess you could count me in. As far as memory: I'm about as sharp as a rusty spoon. Some stuff I remember and some stuff is totally gone.
The Quick Quaker Quacker was a substance inhalation system made from a tubular cardboard Quaker Oats carton that Ossiander seemed to be fond of using.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Are you thinking of
Gustav's?Sorry to hear you got hurt at Peshastin Cosmic. Those slab runouts were, maybe still are, infamous.
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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"Does any oldtime Leavensworth climbers remember the
Pizza parlor in Leavensworth back in the 70s where a lot of the climbers hung out after climbing?"
That was Gustavs, before the fire. Food was better then.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Studly, I think the beer you are talking about might be a Kulmbacker Monkschoff. That comes close and it is a good German beer. I wish I could find some these days. Hard to come by.
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MH2
climber
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Since the thread has snowballed since the OP to include Where Were They Then and years after the 60s, 70s, here a couple names that have come up.
Early Trivial Pursuit fan Greg McKenna powers through a busted shoelace
Dan LePesca in Search of the Perfect Pump
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Classic photos and classic Greg McKenna with a pink shirt. Sounds like he's still climbing aggro. If someone runs into him please mention to him he better take it up a notch as the Wolfdog is climbing hard and still around and looking for him.
Nobody remember Rick Graham? used to have a place by lake Wenatchee, badass climber and river raft guide for ZigZag. He had long hair and looked just like the guy on the cover of the ZigZag rolling papers, so when he told people he worked for ZigZag they were say, Hey, your the dude! Very nice funny guy. So many good memories, where has all the time gone?
How about Tim Burnham, Mr Superfit all around. Used to be a smoke jumper firefighter, lived in Leavenworth 1978-90's, his girlfriend was I believe rad woman climber Katy Kemple? He is now Dr. Tim, professor over at Central in Eburg and last time I stopped over to see him he was working on prepping a couple bodies for anatomy class, so i only stayed a minute, gross.
Wayno, I think you are right on with that being the beer. I don't drink anymore but man they were tasty.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Greg McKenna and Tom Carter saddling up for something large in Yosemite last August--
--
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Bobby Boucher
Trad climber
Auburn, WA
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Is Wolfdog, Wolford, if so I am training super hard. Taking a bath, pulling the plug and fighting the current....
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Wolfdog is Wolford, its me Greg! Glad to hear you are still getting after it you rowdy guy. Let me know when you are going to be in the Valley this spring or summer, as will be down there allot. Look forward to catching up, as haven't seen you since Mark K.'s birthday party years ago, you were telling some pretty funny jokes.... I almost dropped the lighter.
PM sent.
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General Ripper
climber
GnarthWest
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I never knew Der Sportsman was a bar!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I never knew Der Sportsman was a bar!
What was the name of the outdoor store? It had a pseudo-Bavarian name, too. Mostly a hook-and-bullet place, I think, but if I remember correctly they did sell some climbing gear as well.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Der Sportsman.
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Bobby Boucher
Trad climber
Auburn, WA
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Mark, I've told that story a hundred times, how fricken funny was that?
How the heck are you?
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Chief
climber
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Probably early eighties, I remember stopping to pick up some litter on the way up to Castle.
Took the litter back down to the parking lot and dealt with it.
It was very potent litter and we didn't get much done for the rest of the weekend.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Sorry i missed Donini"s slideshow, it sounded like fun, especially with Tami hunkering down and all. :) I got to meet Jim Donini for the first time last year in the Whole Foods parking lot in Vegas. I was with Tim Wilson, oldtime NW climber and he said Hey, thats Donini and he went over and talked to him and introduced us. I guess he was in Vegas for the Red Rock Rendevous. It was a honor and I had wanted to ask Jim what were the the circumstance that led you to put up a route on the Tolketie Wall, a little known and remote place? I always admired that wall, looks like a great crag but for whatever reason have never stopped to climb there. Its kind of a rowdy approach, and kind of right in the middle of going to or coming out of the Enchantments by a high route. Looks like some nice granite.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Tami, If we had seen that bloated cow on the way out from Latok 1 we would have eaten it.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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that boot photo is legend
I saw that at a JD slideshow in Minneapolis
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Re: Der Sportsman.
I have to try real hard to remember the bar, but the store was pretty nice, mainly due to Roger’s female partner Joy. The store carried a lot of high end outdoor gear and probably had hooks and bullets, since that was Roger’s thing.
Nice people, when you got to know them.
The bar was a local’s hangout. Climbers mostly were not catered to.
When Donini first settled in Leavenworth: (in the late 70’s?) he was repping for Wilderness Experience, an up and coming, similar to North Face company.
He kept inviting me over from North Idaho to climb with him, and that was a lot of fun.
I was no threat to the Donini legend, so one day he took me on an “insiders” drive up the Icicle to go “bouldering.”
He was already “an old man” to the young “hotshots.” We slowly drove up the Icicle, sipping on beers, while Jim explained he had worked up a similar trip for anyone gunning for him, who showed up in Leavenworth.
He would protest that he hadn’t been climbing, due to work-related travel, but maybe they could go see some local boulder “problems.” Last minute, he would grab a six-pack or two and pop beers for everyone.
Sometime during the drive, suddenly he would hit the brakes, point upward, and exclaim: “don’t think I’ve ever seen that one before.” The boulder would be inviting, and close to the pavement.
Jim always forgot his climbing shoes on those jaunts, but he would lead a charge of properly shoed hotshots to the boulder.
After they fumbled on the “new problem” for a while: Donini would finish his beer, and give it a try in his sneakers. Of course he would roar up the route.
Lots of time to work on those rocks: when you live a few miles away.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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BITD,one of the most hardcore guys who seemed like they were always out climbing was a guy named Jim Yoder. I didn't know him well,just from constantly seeing him out and about climbing, it seemed like he was always doing some new route or had some project up his sleeve. He had great stoke and seemed a really nice person. Is he still around the Leavenworth area?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jim was (hopefully still is) a great guy and very motivated climber.
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Yoder is still alive and well. Lives on the way eastern side of the state these days - still climbing last I heard. I haven't seen him for a a while, but last time I ran into him he was talking about new route on crags that were virtually in his back yard!
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S1W
climber
|
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I love this thread. As a (relatively) young Washington based climber, its fun to see all of these photos of you guys back in the day. Hearing you all talk of things like the old Gustav's and hanging out around a bonfire at the base of Classic Crack almost stings, feeling like maybe I missed out on a better era. Keep it coming.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The den of iniquity, for Washington climbers. Strategically placed so as to lure innocent Canuckleheads off the straight and narrow. Yes, it's the Steven's Pass Motel, ~1983.
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MH2
climber
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Though I only saw him, rarely, at UW Rock, I remember Rick Graham. His climbing, especially jamming, looked more natural and secure than anyone else I recall seeing there. His story about a bar encounter with one of the Supersonics showed the power of humor as a weapon to disarm.
Rick Graham associate Brian Scott heading for and then on Diamond in the Rough
Here is Dan Lepeska again, heading for Monkey Lip. Just above, Jim Yoder is waiting to tell us why the climb got the name.
And another Leavenworth resident with a lot of friends and relations.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I don't know if there is anyone following this thread who isn't a Leavenworth climber, but just in case there is, I'll post a couple of shots of the town. And a word of explanation, cuz it's the weirdest town in the US.
As I understand it, the place was dying in the late 60s/early 70s, and someone came up with the bizarre idea that if everyone got together, they could fix it up like a Bavarian Village, and tourists would swarm. So whatever businesses had money loaned it to those that didn't, and they did the place up in faux Bavarian. It was (and is) tacky beyond belief, but tourists do swarm.
Anyway, here are a few samples of the Bavarian Village of Leavenworth.
And here's Lester. He's been living at a crag called The Pearly Gates for the last five or six years. Biggest goat (by far) that I've ever met.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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170 posts and nobody has called anybody a name?
Well, except for me calling Mastadon a Mensa which
he took with grace and equanimity - not wanting to
further besmirch this fine thread. I guess I did kinda
call McCarthy goofy but since he hasn't deigned to grace us
with his presence he is fair game.
Ghost,
ya jumped the line! Nice shots of the Barbarian Village!
Lester needs to call Jenny!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Couple more shots of Lester. No telephoto here. He's a curious guy, and has no problem getting close. One day he scared the sh#t out of me. I was belaying Mari, who was leading some crack at the Pearly Gates, and Lester (who had semi-charged a couple of other climbers and run them off just a short while before) decided to check me out.
Like I said, he's the biggest goat I've ever seen. Has to be close to 300 lb, has horns that look way bigger when he's bearing down on you than they do in these pictures, and, most important, he owns the place.
I managed to squeak "Get something in and clip yourself off" and prepared to untie and run away.
But instead of killing me, he just lay down at my feet and went to sleep.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Well, the thread is about old Leavenworth climbers, and judging by Lester's greybeard, he certainly qualifies.
Photos of Lester were a much-needed antidote to those other ones.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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As a child, I remember the art shows on the grass, in the park in the direct sunlight…but the art now is mostly under canopy. I disliked viewing the art back then, when there were other fun things to do.... now it seems one of the high points of visiting Leavenworth, next to the climbing.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Hell's Canyon, any beta?
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Srbphoto
Trad climber
Kennewick wa
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donini - this has some info about Hell's Canyon
http://people.whitman.edu/~pogue/climbing/hells_cyn.html
I'm going to be working in Wenatchee for about 6 weeks (starting on Monday). What's the closest place? Probably be alone, so bouldering. I also heard there is a gym there.
BTW don't mean to hijack the thread, if anyone wants me to start a new one I'll kill this and do that. Just think this is the right place to ask.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jim Yoder is a class guy. Always climbed under the radar but put up a lot of new routes and always was there to share his experiences with others.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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You led Rollercoaster, good job Tami, scary. I'm impressed!
Now how about Black Widow....
I have never done it, I don't think many people have, but Iam going back this summer armed with big cams(even have a Valley giant) and a attitude and try to get it done.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Worthy bump.
We need more climbing photos
and climbing history on the forum
today.
re: Mastadon
And where is Mastadon these days?
He's at a gym in Tahoe showing us old
farts who were late to the game how to
climb proper.
Truly I was lost in the 70s.
Loved the mountains, could do more
pullups than you could shake a stick
at. But the thought of climbing rock
for sport never crossed my mind.
Alas.
Fine pics, Mastadon.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I did Rollercoaster Chimney once, finishing via the chimney/flared offwidth, instead of the steep, exposed, moderate face holds to the left. It was very scary, and hard.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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MHR -
I agree with the Wild traverse comment. Also it's Brian Scott not Brian White. He once badly broke his ankle on Catchy Corner and then drove back to Seattle (before seeing a Doctor) using a stick to operate the clutch. Brain along with Rick Graham established a full length route on Ghost's infatuation (Zeke's) in the late '70s early '80s.
WRT Black Widow - If I remember correctly there is a (very old) bolt ladder getting into the chimney. Bring skinny 'biners.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I'll be at Gustav's Sat. evening on June 6th with Jim McCarthy and The Chief- join us!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The next couple of days we'll be in the Icicle climbing and telling lies.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Hopefully you two wil be at Index on this coming sunny Saturday!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I wish I could! Have fun.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jim,
Say hello for me and you have my proxy to lie your teeth off.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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part of Snow Creek Wall is open in the Spring at least.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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First, I nominate Don Harder for the scanner champ award (previous winners: Chiloe and Tarbuster). Bunch of great photos with some amazing history.
Second, Midnight Rock. Index is steep and hard and scary, but Midnight is a whole step up from there. Went up there a bunch of times (spitting up a lung every time on the approach) and ended up doing the same routes every time as everything was so intimidating. We'd stare open-mouthed at R.O.T.C. crack. When Peter 3rd-classed it in the mid-80s it was completely mind-blowing.
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MH2
climber
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Midnight is a whole step up from there. Went up there a bunch of times (spitting up a lung every time on the approach)
We met Kim Momb up there one day and he told us about carrying his buddy John Roskelly down Everest's North Ridge, then on the next trip, the East Face(?), being the only member of the expedition who didn't have a single down day, always visualizing himself getting to the top. We also had been worked by the hike up but Momb didn't even notice it.
Thanks for the corrections on Brian Scott and the Wild Traverse. I had gone with a quick glance at my old guide, but it turns out that the photo I posted previously is a continuation of Dead End Ledge. Until someone corrects me on that, anyway.
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Viktor
Trad climber
Leavenworth
|
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I first visited Leavenworth in '79, moved here in '89. never left.
This is the dood that first suggested I visit:
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
|
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I'm not done a scannin' yet. Mo' pictures be on-the-way.......
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
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I thought the name Viktor was familiar and so it is. Viktor, I am taking your guidebook with me to Leavenworth this weekend. Thanks dude, it rocks! So many new climbs, so little time.....
Not sure who that guy is but he's got the beer bong down pat....
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Viktor
Trad climber
Leavenworth
|
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Dood should be well-known to you Canuckleheads
more suspects:
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Viktor
Trad climber
Leavenworth
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Don't remember if you were there, Tami
I do remember miraculously passing the sobriety test later that day
after we got pulled over leaving the valley. I guess that lady I clipped
called the cops...
good to hear about randy, etc.
BTW, bluebird cragging in Leavenworth today
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
|
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"JCB,
You got it wrong about Jim Yoder. Jim lives in Eatonville with his wife Marlene and his elderly mother-in-law Molly, on a nice piece of land. They even have their own pond.
Jim and Marlene's favorite area to climb right now is in Hells Canyon, in the corner of Washington, Oregon, and Idaho "
JB, thanks for the correction. I had thought that he was living out by Hells Canyon. Good to know.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
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So what's this about Donini and McCarthy and Perry in L'worth in June? Gee, maybe I can talk the wife into taking the dogs for a little camping trip in the Icicle...
I will bring the good Dago Red. Real Dago Red. This is the stuff that goes with food. Good food...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
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In that case, I'll bring the olives and cheese.... and the wide gear..
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
|
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Mr Lionheart himself, Don Leonard, on our abortive trip to Liberty Bell in January, 1973.
Don scoping Thin Red Line, questioning his motivation. What could we possibly have been thinking??
After almost a week in tents, we bailed to L-Worth. Ron Burgner in the only footwear he had with him on something at Peshastin Pinnacles
Kit Lewis at Midnight Rock around 1977
I wish this picture had turned out better. It captured the essence of Kit Lewis after a very bad night. I think he spent the night in a ditch near the Peshastin Pinnacles parking lot, 1975
Steve Swensen, whitey tightey, at Midnight Rock, 1977. Isn’t he the AAC president?
Anne Tarver, what a little doll, at Peshastin in ’77 or so, I think on Washboard
Re-exiting the womb on Orchard Rock, Peshastin, 1972
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
|
|
Did she look like this:
Or like this:
Anne got a PhD in philosophy and was teaching at a university in Kansas for a while. I saw her at the Woodland Park Washington climbers picnic last August. She had moved back to Seattle and was pounding nails again. She looked the same as she did 30+ years ago-cute and sassy....
---
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
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Steve Swensen, whitey tightey, at Midnight Rock, 1977. Isn’t he the AAC president?
Ha Ha. He won't be AAC president much longer when I post that picture at the gym where he climbs these days.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
|
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^^^^ HaHaHa! The story I have been pondering upon for a while
won't embellish his rep either; attempted manslaughter! With
good intentions, of course!
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Dave Davis
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Hey great pictures Mastadon. I seem to remember going to Leavenworth with you on your maiden voyage along with Marc Emerson and Steve Ansell. I think you may have been drunk. Was just in Leavenworth today with Carlstad. A glorious day punctuated by some not so glorious climbing. More pictures please.
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Hey Anders , I checked out your Sqaumish photos. Great stuff! I suppose I should rummage through my closet to see if I have any old Leavenworth or Squamish pics.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
|
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Rumors of my condition were greatly exaggerated....
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
|
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Don in 2009.
He is a rather resourceful individual
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
|
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He still gets around.
Hey Don...Can I smell your feet?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Yeah, that's ol' handsome!
He was climbing with a couple ladies
yesterday, one quite the hardman.
I was a bit jealous. :)
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11worth
Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
|
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I first climbed around Leavenworth in 1968. I now live on Icicle road near Icicle canyon and still climb with Mike Heath and Gretchen Daiber as well as Rocky Johnson. 40+ years of climbing with those great friends. This is a great forum! (my first post on ST)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
|
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11worth,
Welcome to the nuthouse!
Here's another shot of the 'talent', Mike Heath,
doing his thing on the Wausau shoot on Mt Baker.
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Lionheart
Trad climber
Brier, Wa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2010 - 02:29am PT
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Keep this thread alive...have some pics I can eventually process and post. Wish I'd carried a camera back then.
Would like to see a Wiegelt story or two, photos. And perhaps JIm Madson -another 60's legend that died on an El Cap rescue. Don't know what he looks like. Uh, I'm not morbid or any thing...Dave Davis still breathes? Geez, Hi Dave! (...well perhaps I AM morbid; heh,heh.)
Hey Dave, all that work on Witch Doctor Wall (Checkered Demon, V)...and no one includes it in their Guide Book. Dang! I have a couple nephews that might want to do it just for the familial thang. I don't even have a topo.
Oh well, remember the time when the Eight-Mile Cult pondered leaving the Icicle free of guidebooks and topos? The progeny would always have a first ascent thrill. Noble but a bit high-minded. Did that ever happen anywhere?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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What Madsen might have done had he lived...
The death that got me more then anyone was the death of Paul Boving. I didn't know him but knew of him thru friends and his exploits. He had just written a very well done article in some NW climbing mag that talked about "climbing the calcium carbonate stairway to the stars", etc., just a very funny and well written article. Then when he died on Thin Fingers it seemed like a layer of gloom descended on Index and it wasn't such a happy place to climb for a long time. Does anyone have a copy of that article by Boving?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
|
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Is this the Davis of Davis-Holland?
D-H with the Lovin' Arms finish is a all-time classic. Little bit of everything with some really big air at the top.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
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No, it was Dan Davis on Davis-Holland.
[edit:] Yes, same guy for Dan's Dreadful Direct.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Right Clint, now that you say it, I knew that.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dans Dreadful Direct?
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Sol Wertkin
climber
Leavenworth, WA
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As a current resident of L-town it has been really cool to watch this thread evolve.
My buddy Jens and I had a fun training project last summer where we tried to link the best 15 5.11's in Leavenworth in one day (conditions permitting: No Drip Wall, No Midnight Rock). Of course many of these classics were established by the cadre of Hardmen in this thread, and it's been really cool to put some faces to the names. Here's a link to a little write up I did, thought it might jog the memories of some of you old-timers:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=883550
Great stuff here, keep it coming! Would love to hear some more stories from the Stuart Range...
Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, WA
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
|
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Dan Davis? Dave Davis? Aren't they the same people? I'm confused.....
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
|
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Today's Trivia post. I won't bother to make it
a challenge as nobody would know it. Yes, campers,
I am the person who hung on his jugs for two hours
wielding his trusty trowel and alpine hammer in order
to sanitize this gem of a roadside attraction. You
should have seen the pile of moss (I know) at the bottom!
Its true name is 'Tongue In Cheek'. Not sure: '75?
When I first scoped it the quartz was barely visible!
After all these years it feels good to come out!
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Max
Social climber
outer space
|
|
That's one excellent dike climb across the river. Unfortunately it's somewhat reclaimed as no one climbs over there. Did you have to go the long way around or were you able to take advantage of the off limits bridge? I'm not sure how long it's been there but it seems somewhat modern.
More!
Stories!
Please!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
|
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All right, if you insist. Again '74 or '75
I had just taken the missus up Outer Space. We were back at
the base packing up when the first drops started. It didn't
take long for them to get serious and as it was early spring
it was pretty nippy. Just as we were ready to head down we
heard sounds from above. We hadn't noticed anybody there the
whole day. Then we noticed their packs in an out-of-the-way spot.
It was really coming down as we went down. When we crossed the
creek I got out the binos. The three were at the wee ledge halfway
up the final crack. It was almost totally dark so I took all the
gear and sent the missus down for the mounties, or somesuch
facsimile. I stormed back up to the top and anchored my first rope
as low as I dared scramble in the dark and deluge. And it was a
proper NW deluge, believe me. I rapped down into the maelstrom
and started hollering. Then I anchored my second rope and tossed it.
Since it was blowing quite nicely I couldn't be sure it had made it
to them so I had to haul it up and re-toss it a couple of times.
Finally I got a reassuring tug and figured we'd all be back at the
Der in no time and I'd be drinking for free the rest of the night.
Right. What I hadn't counted on was their lack of preparedness to jug
while hypothermia set in. Actually it turned out that hypothermia had
already clouded their judgement as they later admitted it took them a
long time to get up the nerve to trust the rope from providence. What,
somebody is going to drop you a rope and not anchor it? It would have
helped also if they had jugs rather than jury-rigged prusiks.
It was a very long night.
The first rays of dawn greeted us as we stumbled into the 'mounties'
about 1/4 mile from the road. Gee, thanks guys, hate to have gotten
you out of your jammies! We repaired to the cafe for breakfast. This
is where it gets good. My 'clients' then proceeded to debate whether
they were going to buy me a new rope for the one that had gotten jammed
when we tried to pull it up. We were all pretty frozen at that point and
further heroics to retrieve a rope were deemed ill-advised. Finally, when
the rescue team started talking about passing the hat for me the wankers
relented and coughed up 40 bucks. Did I mention that they were, ahem,
from north of the border and two of them were actually quite famous?
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Lionheart
Trad climber
Brier, Wa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2010 - 04:43am PT
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Yeah Reilly, that reminds me of an early Spring shake-out of a route Rick LeDuc and I did. Remorse is another classic that criss-crosses Outerspace but ends in a coulour around a NE corner.
The wall was fine, but the last pitch walk-off was coated with ice. RD's aren't the best soles for ice dancing. (Remember RD's?) At a spot where most untie, I found myself spinning head first straight for LeDuc's left foot belaying just below the wall's crest. Had there not been a root-twisted snag in the way my head would've turned him into a three-legged horse. The fall was only 15 feet or so, but the scariest one I'd ever had.
We rapped down Country Gardens during twilight but the rope jammed above us with another rap to go. Then pitch black, no moon. I think it was Greg Markov who climbed that pitch with a metal flashlight in his mouth to rescue us. It had gotten so cold and his jaw so tired that he grumped at us like the grizzled old logger who must've named the town of Twisp.
Worth it tho'. LeDuc and I were in wool shirts and the temp was likely to drop to near freezing. Geez, the thought of hugging a man all night for warmth shivers my bones even now. (...Hmm-m, but that LeDuc fella is a handsome son-of-gun!) End of jammed rope story. And I can thank Markov for preserving my hetero-ness. Btw, is Greg Markov still out there?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 10, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
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all these tales of Snow Creek Wall. I'll add one. I was climbing Outer Space for the upteenth time with Glenn Nelson about 1984, then heading on into the Enchantments. There was a party of Brits about 2 pitches ahead of us moving moderately slow, we didn't crawl up their ass and gave them room. I had just started up the handcrack on the headwall as they were topping out. The crack is a perfect vertical splitter that runs for about 300 feet(?). I was up above Glenn about 40 feet when all of a sudden i head the unmistakable sound of incoming mortar round, I mean a rock. I just had time to pull into the rock slightly when it struck me in the shoulder and tore me from the crack. I was left hanging by one handjam and cried out to Glenn, "I'm hit!" The force of the impact was so great that I knew my shoulder had to be broken, but with the rush of adenalin and the shock of it all, I felt numb. I was running it out, so no gear for longways below me, so i knew I had to do something. I pulled in, and tested my shoulder and surprisedly enough it worked. I could lift my arm, got a piece in, hung and shook out. it tookme a few minutes to realize that I really wasn't hurt badly. The rock the size of a cannonball, had just missed the bone as I pulled in at the last second. so i had a big bruise but other then that I was ok. then i got pissed. The Brits had not yelled rock, and it was really irresponsible to knock off that rock knowing we were directly below. So I shifted into high gear and tried to catch them. But they must have known we were coming,(I yelled obscenitites) and they were gone. A very close call and something to think about if there is a party ahead of you on Outer Space, as where you topout it is dirty and manky and the same thing could probably happen again with a careless party as everything funnels down that crack from that area up top as it is kind of a drainage. I thank my lucky stars!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 10, 2010 - 12:27pm PT
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Don,
HaHaHa! Markov was just warming up for the Manfest he and I had
on Half Dumb. Yeah, that is a story: almost a winter ascent and
almost the first clean, neither of which would have compensated
for having to stand on a 6" ledge all night hugging Greg inside
an upside down 2-man bivy sack! Ok, we didn't actually hug but
how close is too close?
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Lionheart
Trad climber
Brier, Wa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2010 - 06:41am PT
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Ohh-h, so that explains the gigantic floating condom sitings of yesteryear in Yosemite. Mystery solved!
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11worth
Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
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Mar 11, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
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Reilly,
The photo you posted of Mike on the Tyrolian is actually Dan Davis.
Mike and I were climbing yesterday and he mentioned that fact. How do you know Mike?
Jim
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 12, 2010 - 11:02am PT
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That was Dan Davis? I've been trying to remember who the
other 'star' was in that shoot but couldn't for the life of
me. I was one of the riggers on that shoot.
How do I know Mike? Well, he did own the Swallow's Nest.
Doesn't he remember all the business I sent his way when I
worked at the Evil Empire on Capitol Hill? Boy, there's
gratitude for ya. Just kidding, I knew Bill better I suppose.
A funny story was the day in '74 or '75 when two guys speaking
Spanish and broken English walked into REI. Somebody at the
front desk knew I could habla so I got paged. Turns out they
came all the way from Mexico City to buy 12 of everything from
Bronco Nagurskis to Jumars for an expedition to Aconcagua.
I took them to lunch in the U District and stopped by the old Swallow's Nest under the bridge.
I think they made the Nest's monthly gross in that one visit.
At the end of the first day we hadn't bought either store out yet
so I bid them hasta luego. They said they wanted to make a deposit
on the piles of stuff they'd already picked out. I said no probs
we'll get it all sorted out the next day. They insisted and then I
realized they meant they wanted to 'deposit' the contents of the
brief case they'd maintained a death grip on all day. They opened
that puppy and we spent half an hour counting out $12,500 to put in
our safe! They'd brought that all they way from home, stayed in a
flea bag down by SeaTac, took a cab to downtown, and walked up Pike St.
The next day they arrived with another $3K which I guess they'd left
in their flea bag! A trusting lot!
So where is Bill these days? I heard he had moved back from Kazakhstan.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 12, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
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As a teenager, I used to love going in the Swallows Nest and hanging out, talking to these old gruff climber types. The rad climbing photos on the wall, the cool location of the shop, and the smell of burning nylon will always stay with me. Unfortuneatly, ultimately it became cheaper to go sleep on the sidewalk at REI for their annual sale and walk out with a pair of boots for $5- and a sleeping bag for $20 and all other kinds of gidgets they were getting rid of.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 12, 2010 - 01:02pm PT
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Yeah, but even though I got my stuff gratis I
still had to go to the Nest for the gud stuff.
Today's Trivia Note: Bill actually produced two prototype
iceaxes (I wonder if Mike still has his). Big deal you say?
Think again. This was about '73 (?) and the handle (55cm?) was freaking
titanium or something (might be wrong on that) but I am positive
that the head was hollow and it had a load of mercury to
give it some POP! when you sank it! It was sooo raaaad!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 12, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
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I still have my Sumner model MSR ice axe that I got at the Swallow's Nest.
Chrome plated head, more steeply drooped than the regular MSRs, aluminum shaft (60cm?), light blue PVC sheath over the shaft.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 12, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
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Who was the boot repairman with Swallow's Nest under the bridge? He recognized and resuscitated a pair of Le Phoques.
REI was okay on rare occasions but don't they realize climbers are asocial and uncomfortable around crowds?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 12, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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Stubai Nanga Parbat Extrem axe. I pumped allot of gas at $2.50 an hour to pay for this one back in 1975.
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Bobby Boucher
Trad climber
Auburn, WA
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Mar 13, 2010 - 10:02am PT
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MH2
what year was the battle of Hastings?
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Viktor
Trad climber
Leavenworth
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Mar 13, 2010 - 10:41am PT
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"Whats going on in modern day Leavenwirth ? Has it had the same kind of surge in interest that Squamish has seen since the mid 90's ?"
Buy this guidebook and find out:
http://www.leavenworthrockclimbing.com
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 13, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
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what year was the battle of Hastings?
1056
Andy, those MSR Thunderbirds bring back memories. I got so excited when I got my first one that I raced out and got way over my head on a free-hanging ice curtain. One Thunderbird and one Stubai Walker ice hammer. I also had screws, but had no ability to place them on anything that steep.
Then I dropped the axe, but fortunately the sling caughht on my arm. So I'm hanging on with the one remaining tool, and can't let go, and the axe is dangling off my bent arm which has the sling in the crook of the elbow. I figured I was pretty surely going to die, but eventually managed to kind of toss the axe upward a bit and grab it.
And all of this took place not too far from Leavenworth. It was one of those winters in the 70s with a cold spell long enough to freeze the waterfalls on the trans-Canada west of Hope. There's a big waterfall called Bridal Falls or Bridalveil Falls, that's popular with tourists in the summer (has some sort of "Flintsones Village" theme park I think). It had been climbed, but there was a four-pitch thing a little way to its left that nobody'd noticed. Called it "Never a Bride"
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MH2
climber
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Mar 13, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
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MH2
what year was the battle of Hastings?
The same question Greg McKenna used as an example of Trivial Pursuit, if I recall.
Wow, Ghost. Any other great times with Bill Sumner/MSR products? Back when they first appeared I got one of his ropes, a stove, and a neon orange parka with a "rebreathing flap."
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Mar 13, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
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Dave Davis was the Trivial Pursuit master. When the game first came out, someone brought a Trivial Pursuit game to Tuolumne, where we were hanging at the time. I guess his english lit degree had some use. Dave could answer just about every question on every card.
As for Leavenworth- Anyone remember the wild parties at Eightmile or Rat Creek in the evenings in the late 60's/early 70's? I remember having the sheriff show up at a party at Eightmile in the early 70's. Fortunately, I think most of the controlled substance had been consumed by that time as those were the days where people went to jail for weed. I remember the next morning: people were all over the place beneath Classic Crack, sleeping-beer bottles spread everywhere. Al Givler gave me a huge smile as he collected the bottles while everyone slept. He was always the responsible one. He was one of those people I thought would never die-he'd always be around. Guess I was wrong......
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11worth
Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
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Mar 17, 2010 - 12:10am PT
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It's true that in the last century you could trade climbing photos for food at Gustav's. In 1980 I traded a photo of the second ascent of Brass Balls on Castle rock for three lunches. (I think that was about $10.00 worth of food.)
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 17, 2010 - 12:17am PT
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yeah, and I got one of Zeke's daughters in the caboose...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 17, 2010 - 12:28am PT
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Well, I hate to brag but I did garner second in the first Seattle
Trivial Pursuit Contest with the inimitable help of my wife's
colleague. Major Booty!
N00bs attack Mt Stuart W Ridge in winter. You don't even want to
see those ice axes. Did I mention that I hate mosquitoes?
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Mar 17, 2010 - 12:53am PT
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1066
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 17, 2010 - 01:34am PT
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1066
Duh. Yeah. But 1056 is close, right. The Normans were thinking about the invasion by then. They must have been. So I get a 51% grade... Please?
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Mar 17, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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Mr Studly Sir,
I'd be careful what I bragged about, even in jest....Zeke's daughters were ABSOLUTELY GHASTLY!
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 17, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
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Yeah, but the "honeymoon" burgers were stupendous (which might account for why the "Zekettes" looked like they did).
Is Classic Crack still only 5.7?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 20, 2010 - 01:34am PT
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Bump?
Prusik Pk
So Givler took his class up the W Ridge (on left) once. He recruited
'assistants' by alluding to the 'benefits package'. "Yeah, Al, we
get it (drool, slobber, pant)." This was the final exam so the students
were 'sposed to get up it on their own. Us 'assistants' kinda just
soloed alongside leering and imparting pearls of wisdom from our vast
font of knowledge and perversity. It was pretty hilarious if a shameless
display of wanton lust is your idea of good humor.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 20, 2010 - 01:39am PT
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and the High Priest on the right.
Prusik has one of the coolest summits ever, nice and flat and just big enough for a small group to hunker down comfortably and chill. It just occured to me its a great place to bivy if you don't have a overnight pass, as never seen a Ranger up there.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 20, 2010 - 02:41am PT
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View from ^^^^^aforesaid summit but no need to linger as it is a short drop off the back side.
Bryan Burdo planning to arrive on the summit via pussy-foot.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 20, 2010 - 03:13am PT
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Dragontail (for those who don't know)
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Lionheart
Trad climber
Brier, Wa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2010 - 11:49pm PT
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Great pic of Prussik Reilly.
Givler said he had started another route on Prussik. Left a fortune of iron-ware, but never finished. Anyone know if it was completed?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 25, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
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How 'bout a Greg Markov, aka D'Artagnan, bump?
On our almost first winter and almost first clean ascent
of Half Dumb. I know it isn't about hand grenades but
a lot of climbing is about 'almosts'. That's why some of
us are still here. If we'd known they would have put us
on the cover of Nat Geo maybe we almost woulda tried harder?
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MH2
climber
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Mar 25, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
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How 'bout a Greg Markov, aka D'Artagnan, bump?
I like it.
I was having some trouble figuring out what had happened to us on a Markov route once, until an inspiration came to look in the phone book. The man answered and explained that they had done the climb in indifferent weather, weren't sure just which summit they had got to, and it happened to get recorded wrong in at least 2 sources: Beckey and the Mountaineers Intermediate Climbs.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Mar 25, 2010 - 08:11pm PT
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Reilly - that picture reminded me of our trip report of "Der Diehedral", a 6-pitch variation on Dragontail:
Der Diehedral TR
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Mar 25, 2010 - 09:01pm PT
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Mr Reilly Sir,
What year did you make your clean ascent attempt on HD with The Count????
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 25, 2010 - 09:39pm PT
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Sir Donald,
In no way should it be construed as a clean attempt. His
Highness and minion were just trying to get up the sucker.
It was only when the Nat Geo came out that we realized we'd
had an unwitting brush with infamy. We were up there early
that spring and those guys were in the fall if I recall.
When the snow started falling after the pendulum any reluctance
to reach for the hammer rather melted away although I really
don't recall using but 7 or 8 pins. By the time we hit Big Sandy
we renamed it Big Snowy. We could have used snowshoes on Thangsgiving.
We were from Seattle so it was just another day out, eh?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 26, 2010 - 10:02am PT
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I'll be having burgers in Gustav's on Saturday evening 6/5 and plan to climb for the next three days, I hope to see some of you there.
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Chief
climber
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Mar 26, 2010 - 10:35am PT
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Jim,
Confirming same plan.
Probably won't climb with recent RC repair. (I knew there was a reason I hated bouldering)
Will hike, hold a rope, pound beer and wax nostalgic.
Again, killer bluegrass festival starts the following Thursday at the Chelan Fairground I think.
PB
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 26, 2010 - 10:46am PT
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Great! I'll have Jim McCarthy with me and maybe Mark Kroese.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Mar 26, 2010 - 11:49am PT
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Jim
I would like to show up.
I could give Chief some support and pack extra beer. I could provide a rather solid anchor, and I fear no belay.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 26, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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Phil, I would love to see you. I saw your son in the Creek a few days ago. Gotta run to the airport.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 26, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
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Ha. I think I'll show up, too. And if I do some climbing, it'll make everyone else look really good.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Mar 26, 2010 - 11:57pm PT
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on topic bump
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 27, 2010 - 01:11am PT
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I'll see if I can make it. Somebody should let Rick and Dave know, too.
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Chief
climber
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Mar 27, 2010 - 01:34am PT
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Cool, it's petty much official if Rick and Anders are on board.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 27, 2010 - 01:36am PT
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I wanna go, I wanna go. I'll just lurk in the background and pretend to take pictures...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 27, 2010 - 01:38am PT
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I could maybe bring the CD from my presentation at VIMFF, with photos (many already somewhere around here), stories, and the 1975 Sentry Box video. The latter, at least, would be worth showing, and it'd probably be OK with Dave and Dave. In fact, maybe they'd be interested in coming...
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TMO
Trad climber
Puyallup, WA
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BUMP! For a GREAT thread. Keep the stories coming please.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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OK, I have a story.
It's not a Leavenworth BITD story. I didn't start climbing in Leavenworth until the early 80's. But I did know many of the Northwest climbers who annually made the pilgrimage to Yosemite in the late 60's - early 70's. Al Givler and Mark Weigelt certainly stand out. Both had incredible drives to accomplish climbs.
Mark was an amazingly strong climber. Like many of us in those days, he was financially challenged, especially late in the rock climbing season. Thus when he went up on Half Dome's NW face in October with Hans(?) all they could afford for bivouac food was two loafs of white bread and a jar of peanut butter. They made what looked like enough peanut butter sandwiches (minus the jelly) to last the 2 1/2 days it usually took to climb the route. Unforunately, hauling across the pedulium on the Robin's traverse they busted their water bottles, forcing them to finish the route without water and unable to eat the sandwiches with dry mouths.
As a group the Northwest climbers were a fun bunch to climb, camp, and trip with.
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Al Givler was an amazing climber who taught a climbing class I took in 72. At the time Schurman Rock at Camp Long in West Seattle and the Wedgewood boulder were where everyone honed their skills. I remember watching Weigelt and Givler floating up stuff that seemed way too hard at the time in Kronhofers', Robbin's shoes and RD's! On any given summer night you'd meet just about anyone who climbed rock in Seattle.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Got to agree with you about Givler, Rick. I can recall a trip to Granite Mountains, CA. Al did some routes that I doubt ever got named, rated or repeated. He didn't (like most of us) force his way up the rock. It was like he talked gravity into letting go.
What a tragedy to NW climbing when both Mark's and Al's climbing careers were cut short.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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So 'The Crew' was on its way up to the Enchantments. We stopped for
lunch at Snow Lake. Al says, "Hey, there's this cool little slab
route right over there. Let's go do it."
"Huh? Uh, well, sure!"
We go over there, I think it was actually called Snow Lake Wall, and Al
starts up this thing. It is smooth as a baby's bottom and totally
unprotected off the ground. There was something, a flake or a crack, a
ways up that he was aiming for. About 15' above the gnarly boulders at the
base Al gets very quiet as he tests this smear. No good. He tries at least three times and says "Next!"
Ok, I had a good four or five inches on him so I go. It wasn't a reach problem though so after I pretend to make an effort Al goes back up. You could have heard a pin drop on the other side of the lake as he eases up.
He suddenly screams and our collective heart leaps into our throats.
He slides back onto the last discernible knob and turns his face towards us and says with all seriousness, "I stepped on an ant!"
Then that crazy grin takes over his face and the hysterical laughter erupts.
"I'm done, who's got the pipe?"
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Younkin
Mountain climber
Utah
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Apr 11, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
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I never actually climbed with Al but I did climb Givlers Dome with Bruce Carson, its sad when the best go so soon, Jim
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and partner
Trad climber
Leavenworth, WA
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Apr 11, 2010 - 12:51pm PT
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Hi, folks. Hi, Don... remember our trip to climb Tantalus Wall, squeezed into the old MGB, with Diana? Well, I started in 11-worth in 1963. And started doing 'hard' rts there in 1966. Lots of climbs with my (briefly) protege, Bruce Carson, and walls w/ Al Givler. I have to laugh at the Lwrth guide. Like Poison Ivy crack. John Teasdale and I did the FA of that in late winter 1971. My wife, Diana is on the cover of the old (old) Beckey Town Wall guide, on a 5.10 off-width, long hair flying. Don, these were great times. Diana and I now have a place a few hundred yards north of Gretchen Daiber-Heath and Mike Heath... in 11-worth. This place was the crucible for Salathe, Lotus Fl Twr, Tien-Shan, Nose, many other 5 and 6 grade Yose climbs... and even solos in S. America; Diana to Dhalighiri, Pumori, Mt. Kenya, Everest, etc. etc. I remember sitting at the base of Generator Crack w/ Donini, telling him to go to Patagonia, if he felt Yose was climbed out. You are now in Brier, WA!? So is Karl Kaiyala! Young Don Harder, in Tahoe, Bryce Simon in Chico. We all stay in touch. It is great to see this post--- Thom Nephew and Ron Burgner are both still in touch... but Cindy Wade Burgner and Bonney both passed away from cancer. My Diana is now fighting brain cancer GBM grade 4. It's great to hear from the old 11-worth crowd. There is no greater exercise to strengthen the heart, than to stoop down to lift up another. My best to all. DAVE DAILEY
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
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Very sorry to hear about Diana's struggle. For those who don't know, she is another of the legendary hardwomen climbers from the Pacific NW. Very close to having been the first American woman to summit Everest. And, look at her floating 5.10 offwidth...
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jeffw
climber
portland, or
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Apr 11, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
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just read through this entire thread. i started climbing in 1984 when i moved to seattle and leavenworth was where i did my first routes. so many cool pictures here of the people who were the big names back in the day. awesome.
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Lionheart
Trad climber
Brier, Wa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2010 - 04:42am PT
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Hi Dave,
Yeh, I remember the MGB and Diana doing the gear-shifting for you. Bruce and I did our 1st aid climb together up at Squamish; an earlier trip I think. We spent all day doing Big Daddy Overhang. It was only 2 pitches long. He was skinny enough to slide thru the slot and drop a rope over the last 20' for me to jug. It was getting dark and we didn't want to turn it into a G5. The next thing I know he's doing the 1st hammerless ascent up the Nose w/Chounard!!!
Remember our nightly rock toss at floating tin foil in the Squamish cave? The next night a very angry skunk screamed at us for that and making too big a fire. I was sure you's get sprayed...just the same, the fright was so fierce, I don't think you ended up smelling too good anyhow. Fun times. Hang in there Diana...prayers for you. Say "Hi" to Tom and Ron for me. Condolences.
Shall keep an eye out for Karl and fire y'off an e-mail one of these weeks. Great to hear from you again. -DL
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RadDad
climber
Thorp, WA
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May 22, 2010 - 04:10pm PT
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I thought I might add a few pics too!
Best regards, Doug
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Chief
climber
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May 22, 2010 - 06:04pm PT
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Still planning to make Gustav's Sunday June 6 (via Bozeman/Missoula) for beers and a good schooling with Donini, Mighty, Ghost, mazama Rick et al.
Any chance Julie will grace the event with her regal presence and gentle our otherwise savage condition?
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karmaseattle
Trad climber
wa
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May 22, 2010 - 10:39pm PT
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Dave - Very sorry to hear about Diana, My thoughts are with you... I was in you physics class in 1987 and 88 and very clearly remember Dianna's Everest Trip. What an inspiration! I also remember you had a couple of busted of feet/ankles from a fall and taught us while hobbling around on crutches. Your slide show from your Pumori trip was awesome! You're a big reason why I started climbing 20 years ago!
Take care and hopefully I'll run into you sometime in Leavenworth!
Scott Brainard
Lake Forest Park, WA
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Chief
climber
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An old Jello Tower favorite
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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An old Jello Tower favorite
EBs? Check
Chalk bag big enough to bivy in? Check
Swami? Check (no wussy harness for this dude)
Muscular torso on display? Check
Over-the-shoulder sling with almost no gear? Check
But wait... Those pants... They're not lycra, but they look almost like proto-lycra. The Frostback Judge deducts points for that, Perry, bringing down your score from a perect 10.00 to 9.90.
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MH2
climber
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Frostback Judge?
Moving the clock forward but still Leavenworth
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Chief
climber
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Ghost, good old cotton, I swear.
Is that a retrobolted Free Lunge we're looking at?
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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I retired my whillans harness the day after I saw Chief leading Exasperator in one. The tie in ritual with the swami was cool, I still have mine.
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MH2
climber
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Is that a retrobolted Free Lunge
Rock N' Rattle, FA Dean Hart and Randy Atkinson, 1987
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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SOS!!!! The hosers have jacked our thread!
;-)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oh but I was so much older then;
I'm younger than that now.
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MH2
climber
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MH2 -rattlesnake rock?
I seem to remember doing a gear route there in 82 that was lost in a wave of the future that is now in the past.
Or vice versa.
Rattlesnake Rock isn't abundantly supplied with gear opportunities.
But, speaking of Old Leavenworth Climbers, sometime in those early 80s I did a gear route on Rattlesnake's neighbor Piton Tower, with Darryl C if I remember rightly, and there was a summit register which included entries for Fred Beckey and "Fred's girl".
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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Two times, Mugs Stump award recipient, pulling down another Leavenworth classic test piece as a teenager.
http://www.mugsstumpaward.com/winners.html
The Mugs Stump Award is given annually to climbers attempting alpine climbing objectives that exemplify fast, light and clean tactics. The awards are a tribute to the late Mugs Stump, one of North America’s most prolific and visionary climbers, who died in a crevasse fall in Alaska in May 1992.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 26, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
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A classic Paul Boving shot of Yellow Bird on Midnight Rock. From Off Belay August 1977.
What a talented climber that guy was!
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DNBart
Mountain climber
Woodinville
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Nov 22, 2010 - 11:59am PT
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I see this post stream is rather old, but maybe we can breath new life into it.
I can't remember the first time I climbed in Leavenworth, but it was likely early 1970's. We climbed a lot of the climbs mention in posts here, some even before they had names. I do know some of the people mentioned as well, and the gear you guys are talking about.... oh such memories. I still have a lot of it. I am still a gear junkie!
Anyone still up to discussing this?
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MH2
climber
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Nov 22, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
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"Anyone still up to discussing this?"
Are you kidding?
The past never gets old for this crowd.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Nov 22, 2010 - 04:32pm PT
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Ran into this character two summers ago in Tuolumne
Certainly rates as an "old Leavenworth climber"
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 22, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
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Holy jeebus Masta, don't do that to me!
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Nov 22, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
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Brass Balls, The Bone, MF Overhang, Damnation Crack, South Face of Jello Tower...
Man, I miss Castle Rock.
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JohnnyK
Social climber
Port Angeles
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Sep 30, 2011 - 10:53pm PT
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Climbed Classic Crack for my first rock climbing experience. Al Givler and Niels Andersen were spurring me on! Told me Jello Tower tommorrow!
I made the climb, but was dehydrated from fear. Made it to the top and never felt more alive. I thank Al and Niels for there support. I also feel the loss of both.
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Tina Devin
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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I just discovered this old thread, last posting in 2011, but I couldn't resist adding photos of another old Leavenworth climber, Mead Hargis. These photos are vintage 1970, 1971. --Tina Hargis
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Great to see these photos!
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Nice Tina!
Where are you at, these days??
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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I think it's time this thread got revived, it's how I originally found this web-site. Thanks for the pics,Tina. I remember first meeting Mead in Leavenworth sometime in the late sixties at Eight Mile campground. The next day we all we all went up to Midnight Rock, Mead, Al Givler, Mark Weigelt,Jim Langdon, Jerry Kilner and myself. Mead, Al and Mark are all gone now, a rather sobering thought. For all I know Jerry could be too as he was older than the rest of us. I wish I had more pictures from that era, but photography was always a low priority with me. I know there are a few buried in my closet somewhere....
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bixquite
Social climber
humboldt nation
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I was just back at Index last weekend workin on the cabin. gosh that place is magic. I look forward
to adventures in those mountains and the dharma bums that roam them.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 25, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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Bump!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 25, 2016 - 09:23pm PT
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Midnight Rock, maybe 1983
Lower Castle Rock, mid-80s
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| Messages 1 - 274 of total 274 in this topic |
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