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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 28, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
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I've been trying to figure out the sequence of the first 10 ascents or so, but everybody seems to have a different opionion. i'm hoping to get some clarity with dates and what not. would love to hear from mike waugh and jerry moffat who did early ascents. hears how i remember it
1) bachar and yerian 81
2) schneider and scott frye 83
3) kurt smith and ed barry 84
4) mike waugh and darryl nakahira
5) moffat and partner ?
i'm positive about the first 3, despite what cristian griffith claims he heard from bachar
other early notables
scott cosgrove and partner
rob oravetz(seconded by cosgrove)
christian griffith and tim wagner
any other early(1980's) ascents?
steve schneider
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Dec 28, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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Steve, Mike never posts online but I know that he thinks that his ascent with Darryl was the first no-falls ascent. Fall 1984 sounds right.
Jan
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Dec 28, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
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Steve,
Pete Steres made an ascent as well but do not know
who partnered him, nor the date. I should have asked
him, never did.
good luck,
Ray
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Dec 28, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
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Todd Worsfold led all pitches onsight in Summer of '85.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 28, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
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I'm still waiting for you to guide me up it, Steve. Didn't we have a deal once?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 28, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
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How many times did John do it? And Dave?
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overit
Trad climber
Boulder
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Dec 28, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
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Didn't Scott Burke send the whole thing? It may have been early 90's though.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Dec 28, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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Scott Burke did it at least 5 times...
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
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this is some help. who is todd worsfold. summer of 85 would make him in the top ten. i'll ask burke where he came in, i know he's done the route more than anybody.
jan, you know mike? i would love to hear his timeline, i think summer of 84 is more likely than fall, it gets kind of cold
mark, NO DEAL. the deal was for you, me, and shelly. without the t and a its less attractive.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 28, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
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Damn! I was hoping you wouldn't remember that part!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 28, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
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Had always heard that Lance Bateman and Dave Bell from SLC made an early ascent, and, that JB was there and he was pretty psyched on their effort.
Both those guys are around (saw Lance the other night).
Cheers,
-Brian
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Dec 28, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
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Steve, it may be possible Pete's ascent was among
among the first ten as well.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 28, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
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coz (Scott Cosgrove) said he did the 5th ascent.
He posted in the middle of the big Bachar-Yerian thread with all the cool photos and stories:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/375380/Bachar-Yerrian
coz
Trad climber
California Jun 29, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
I can, I did the fifth ascent of the B/Y and Bacher didn't sneak up to the base but walked up with me to take photos. I had train climbing knobs for about a month and basically just climbed as fast as I could to get it over with.
The third pitch gave me a little pause where everyone before me had broken off a few holds but I managed to wiggle by. John got some great photos.
I did it again many years latter and it felt about 11c, great climb.
I think, the thing I really still find amazing is, running it out that far hanging on a hook and drilling for fifteen minutes. Pure terror.
Bacher is and always will be the man!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 29, 2009 - 01:11am PT
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Steve, Todd W. was an old school little known climber from N. Tahoe (now in S.F.) who moved out from the east coast in '83ish. I first met him through wally (Paul Tier) and wanky (Dave Le winter) and the North Tahoe boys. He was a heady confident climber with nerves of steel.
His FIRST El Cap route was a SOLO ascent of Eagles Way (on a recommendation from Troy Johnson) in '84/85 after his partner for the Nose bailed on him two weeks prior. He has also done repeats of seldom climbed Calaveras Dome sketch fests's authored by the late Dick Richardson.
On a summer day in '85 after frying the night before, Todd led every pitch of the BYR not knowing exactly what he was even on. In the summer of '86 he suggested that he and I go and do it together. I thought I might be capable of doing one of the leads so I agreed (bad joke). He led the first pitch and I cut my right index finger badly trying to just follow it. Blessing in disguise. I was nowhere near capable of doing the thing. We bailed.
Back to the topic at hand, Todd did an early ascent of the BYR in early summer '85. I just got off the phone with him and it brought back some good memories, hope this helps straighten the record.
KA
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Dec 29, 2009 - 01:18am PT
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Sept 1985 It was a late evening attempt, the Trons Challenged me to climb this immortal piece of stone, I remember up and down climbing several times just to clip the first bolt, I reached the belay at the first pitch(NO FALLS) at dusk, I trailed a rope and raped of those infamies bolts and remember pulling the cord in the dark. I left the next day back to the OC. never to return?????????
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Dec 29, 2009 - 01:42am PT
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Did Wolfgang Gullich ever complete the route? I know he
went up and took a fall... But it slips my mind, whether
they went down or continued or returned later...
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Dec 29, 2009 - 01:59am PT
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close but no cigar
British Headpointer Tries Bachar-Yerian on Natural Gear
Issue 172
In 1981 John Bachar cast off into the uncharted expanse of Mendlicott Dome, a steep 500-foot, knob-spackled granite face in Tuolumne Meadows, California, with nothing but a hand drill and bolts, some slings, hooks and cams. Climbing onsight and belayed by Dave Yerian, he established the litmus test for runout climbing, the Bachar-Yerian (5.11c R). Over the years, climbers have assayed their mental fortitude against Bachar’s standard by stepping up to onsight this piéce de résistance. Some succeeded, but others, famously, didn’t. Wolfgang Güllich (one of the strongest climbers in the world before his untimely death in a car crash), for example, broke a brittle foothold and zipped 60 feet onto his belayer while trying to make the second ascent.
In July, the 19-year-old English climber George Ullrich attempted to better Bachar’s style by skipping the nine bolts and protecting the face entirely with natural runners. Ullrich had already repeated some of the British Isles’ boldest headpoints, both on gritstone and, more recently, in the Lake District, where he sent two of Dave Birkett’s sparsely protected lines, Impact Day and Dawes Rides a Shovel Head. Both lines are rated E8 6c, which translates to scary, dangerous 5.13 climbing protected entirely by natural gear.
With that kind of background training, it’s no surprise that Ullrich managed to onsight the Bachar-Yerian while clipping the bolts, but his decision to try the line without the fixed pro might leave people scratching their heads, since the route largely lacks cracks that accept gear. Ullrich spent another day on the climb sussing placements, which, for the most part, consisted of slings hitched around the suspect knobs, and then he went for the send. Six feet from the third-pitch anchors (and the end of the difficulties), Ullrich balked, opting to clip the last bolt, and bringing his historic bid to elevate America’s iconic testpiece to a close.
Q&A
Why did you decide to try the Bachar-Yerian without the bolts?
After climbing it with Mason “Bob” Earle with bolts, I was excited to see that it looked possible to protect most of the climb by slinging chicken heads with small slings and cord, and I thought it would be fun to give it a bash. I climbed it once more clipping the bolts and I felt comfortable—kinda comfortable, actually. We got rained off the last pitch so I wasn’t able to check it out.
What happened at the end of the third pitch on your attempt without bolts?
Halfway up that bit, I realized that I didn’t actually have any decent protection to hold a fall, and I had only climbed the top section once before. After fiddling a crap wire into a hole, I was sketching and thought it sensible to clip the bolt a few meters up. A wise decision, as I did not feel comfortable on the top few moves. The crux of the route is halfway up the first pitch, protected by a sky-hook and a couple of cams below the break, but the top section is the psychological crux.
Other than that section, did you feel solid throughout? Yes, it was more mentally
Wolfgang
http://www.wolfgangguellich.com/artikel/a5.pdf?????
Watch this guy he makes the original bolts look BOMBER!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wcg5arcKDCo
WOLFGANG
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 03:29am PT
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clint, thanks for showing me the b and y thread, although i'm too gripped now to sleep tonight. there's some curious discrepancies in there. i'm still checking out the thread. ciao, shipoopoi
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 29, 2009 - 04:30am PT
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Always glad to share cool threads like that one!!
Keep us posted on what you figure out on the timeline - definitely a worthy project.
The dates should help straighten out the puzzles, and I bet people will have pretty clear memories of it. (Maybe too clear?!)
I think some of those epic attempts should go in the timeline, too.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Dec 29, 2009 - 11:53am PT
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Steve,
Waugh and I started climbing together and still climb together regularly. I believe his ascent was the 4th and was around Labor Day, so late summer not fall. We had done lots of hard knobs all summer (Alien, Mystery Acheivement, etc.) so he was well tuned.
Jan McCollum
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 29, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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And the Iron Monkey?
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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Dec 29, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
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Funny, my memory has always been that I did it in '85 with you Scott, not too long after your ascent. Lead the 3 pitches without falls, you did the 4th.
I did go up there after the attempt by Gullich and Renault with Nelson but we also failed in our bid for the coveted second, though Alan's story as to what went down up there was more fiction than fact. I took the big fall on the second pitch after breaking a knob and that was it for me, wigged. Prior to that we did pull off the second of You Asked for It. That was '83.
Trained hard for two seasons with the goal of doing that route, and now it seems I should have also considered selecting a partner willing to recognize my accomplishment some 20+ years out as well. But really, it was another lifetime ago. When it comes down to it, getting John's nod in the parking lot afterwards has always been and will be enough acknowledgement for me.
Good luck with the list Steve.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 29, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
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Were the ascents by Griffith, Cosgrove, Moffat, Waugh, and Oravetz all in 1984?
(In same summer, but after Smith?)
Or were some in 1984 and some in 1985?
What month for the ascents by Griffith and Cosgrove? We have the month for Waugh's ascent (end of August).
Here is a rough list from these 2 threads:
year,month,day,ascent#,,,
1981,8,,1,John Bachar,Dave Yerian,"first ascent, over 3 days, no falls or hangs other than to place 4 of the bolts from hooks"
1982,,,attempt,Wolfgang Gullich,Thierry Renault,"Gullich fell 30' on p1, Renault fell 30' and 60' on p2"
1982,,,attempt,Alan Nelson,Rob Oravetz,"Oravetz fell on p2, ""Path of the Master"" article"
1983,,,2,Steve Schneider,Scott Frye,"Schneider led all pitches, no falls"
1984,,,3,Kurt Smith,Ed Barry,"Barry fell on p2, then went back up and led it"
1984?,,,4,Christian Griffith,Tim Wagner,no falls
1984?,,,5,Scott Cosgrove,,"1 week after Griffith, no falls"
1984?,,,,Jerry Moffat,John Bachar,"Moffat took a 15 meter fall, according to Gullich's book"
1984?,8,30,4?,Mike Waugh,Darryl Nakahira,"Waugh has done this route 5 times. Cosgrove recalls Waugh's first time was a couple of years later, but might be one of his later times?"
1985?,,,,Rob Oravetz,Scott Cosgrove,not long after Cosgrove's first time
1985,7?,,,Todd Worsfold,,"no falls, early summer"
198?,,,attempt,Tom Higgins,(rope solo),"backed off of p2, was using Jumar self belay"
198?,,,,Wolfgang Gullich,Heinz Zak,"Gullich led p1 w/ no pro, swung leads, no falls this time"
1986,,,,Dave Shultz,Al Swanson,with Greg Epperson taking photos
1988,,,,Lance Bateman,Dave Bell,"Bateman fell 50' on p2"
[edited]
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Dec 29, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
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If the climbing is "only" 5.11, why did both Gullich and Renault fall on their attempt?
Broken knobs?
Otherwise, I can't fathom why such good climbers would fall on what, to them, must have been moderate terrain (just based on the numbers).
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Dec 29, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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Well Mr. gym climber, have you ever tried standing on little tiny knobs when out 30 feet from your last bolt and you have been hanging on and standing on tiny knobs for 20 minutes already? And it is vert to overhanging...
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Dec 29, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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Well Mr. gym climber, . . .
No, I haven't tried the route or the equivalent.
But I wasn't talking about me, I was talking about Gullich, the first guy to climb 5.14 etc. etc.
I don't think he was someone who would get overly tired just becasue the route is slightly overhanging or you need to stand on some small holds.
I'm not a B/Y level climber but you take your condescending attitude and shove it, seeing as how your "answer" (ever so slightly steep and some small holds) in NO WAY addresses my question: why did 2 top level climbers fall on what is supposedly mid-level 5.11.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 29, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
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The Nature of the climb, it seems to take a wider skill set...
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 29, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
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Waugh is THE MAN!! 5 times??? Hats of Mike.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 29, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
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didn't alan nelson go back at some point and do it? maybe with peter siri?
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Dec 29, 2009 - 06:13pm PT
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Jaybro: yes, that's what I was getting at and hoping that someone more knowledgeable than my humble, gym-climbing self could run with.
If I was on a top rope, being a 5.11 gym climber and all, I expect it would be no problem? Or are the ratings there much harder or something?
By today's standards, 5.11 seems pretty easy.
(I do not mean to take away from the accomplishments of those who have led the runout pitches: I understand that requires a level of virtuosity and daring that few people, even now, have. And I'm not one of those people.)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dec 29, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
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By today's standards, 5.11 seems pretty easy.
That depends on an awful lot of factors.
I can tell you from personal experience that being out on the lead away from gear is a significant factor.
It's not easy, no matter what day it is.
Just my two cents.....
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 07:22pm PT
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talked with coz today in person, he seems pretty sure about the first five ascents. it seems like everybody and their mother did it in 84/85. unless some people can break out specific dates, i'm inclined to go with scott's memory for the first five, with a virtual free for all for the next five.
blahblah...to answer you question. yeah, the ratings are sandbag. first pitch has a real hard move past the second bolt, and could easily go for a 5.12 rating here. the second pitch is 5.11+, sure no big deal for a top level climber, but the routefinding is 5.13. to toproute the second pitch, with chalk on the holds, going the right way, spending minimal time on it, no big deal. but leading the thing, climbing up, down, sideways, maybe hanging on too hard because the whipper is ever present, it is hard to make it 5.11. it'as only 5.11+ if you go the right way. and wolfie was not used to knob climbing, he was more of a redpointer than an onsighter, and it's tough trusting that knob climbing if you have not put the time in.
i led every pitch no falls on the second ascent, can't remember if frye fell or not.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Dec 29, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
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Great post, Steve. I have wondered about the specific issues of leading BY, beyond the runouts.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 29, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
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Great thread! I get it, how if you know EXACTLY where to climb, and precisely which knobs to grab, it might "only" be 5.11. But having to figure it out on lead, onsight, would make it hugely harder as you'd have to suss the moves, which wouldn't be all tick-marked with chalk.
How are the bolts these days? Does the route get climbed very often? On-sighted? Have any original knobs broken, rendering it harder these days?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Dec 30, 2009 - 12:17am PT
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So who has the oldest person ascent on this now? I just might be on the thing next summer. My main climbing partner has the itch and is certainly capable.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Dec 30, 2009 - 12:23am PT
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Also curious as to how often it gets done these days. My ascent was in '94 or '95 and at that time it was still somewhat uncommon. It seems though in recent years I hear a lot more about the route and was wondering if that was indicative of it getting more ascents?
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
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i think the bachar yerian probably sees one or two ascents a year on average, it is definitely a rare day to see a party on it, and if you do, it's well worth the hike to see the show.
bachar and schultz replaced the bolts on the same day i replaced the bolts on slider banger, so both routes have good bolts now.
met with scott burk for the first time in years last night at his folks home in pinole. he did the b and y 5 times(tied with mike waugh i believe) from 90 to 94. in the last week i have seen burk, coz and kurt smith. we were all on the tm rescue team in the 80's and bachar was, and is, our total hero.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 30, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
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Thanks, Steve. Did you see Leo (Scott's father)? A friend from the FaceLift, though he missed 2009 due to back trouble. Hope he's well.
Anders
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 30, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
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Scott and I climbed the B&Y around 97 or 98. My first time on the route, Scott's 7th. I led the 1st pitch (another story) and Scott led the 2nd and 3rd then we rapped per the Camanders request. We then raced to the Valley and stared up the Nose hoping to complete both routes in a day.
MyMyMy...
Brian
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Dec 30, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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Yeah, Clint's link (1st page) has some cool pics. That pic of the Frenchy 'bike-peddlin' on his way down is chilling.
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mbb
climber
the slick
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Dec 30, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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Bateman and Bell did it in the summer of 88, they were both 17. I was in Toulumne at the time with my friend Eric Wright. Bateman took a 60 footer on the first pitch, rested a minute, then fired it. I believe Bell led the next couple of pitches onsight.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 30, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
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damn mike. i knew lance was a smokin' hot boulderer, but never knew he had sends THAT proud under his belt.
i'da been scared to top-rope the sucker.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2009 - 01:12am PT
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wow, this thread is really getting good. there are some discrepancies that are hard to explain. for example, brian biega says he did the b and y with burk in 97 or 98, for burk's 7th ascent. i talked face to face with burk last night and he says he did the b and y 5 times from 90 to 94, not 7 times.
or
mbb says lance bateman took a sixty footer on the 1st pitch, shook it off, and then sent the pitch, and dave bell led the upper two. well, lance took a big fall, probably closer to fifty than 60, and took it on the second pitch, NOT THE FIRST as mbb says. i know because i was there and watched it all. if you took a 60 footer on the first pitch, i seriously doubt that you would be shaking it off because that pitch slabs out below. but dave and lance were psyched, only had one rope, and it was impressive because dave received a huge ropeburn on his neck when lance fell past him. i THINK dave led the first and third. i KNOW lance led the second. dave probably still has a proud scar from it.
and although these seem like minor discrepancies, its gets really interesting when you get to talking about who did the fourth ascent. in the last week i have talked with kurt smith and ed barry who everyone agrees did the third. i've talked with scott cosgrove, mike waugh, daryl nakahira, christian griffith, elliot robinson, all who did early ascents, and there is not a consensus between them. i really wish bachar were still here to shed his light on the subject. i'm really not sure what to do at this point, and am almost sorry i started this thread...but not quite.
i'm just a natural blonde trying to figure out history. shipoopoi
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 31, 2009 - 10:17am PT
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After thinking about it last night it was somewhere between 93 and 95. I cracked my skull in 96 so I will have to look back for the dates...
My friend John Scott from Truckee climbed the route with his wife on his honeymoon sometime in 89? and this summer or last (20 years later) they climbed it again.
Some other friends Josh Horniack, Pete Chase (Super Pete), Hans Standteiner and a number of other Tahoe locals have climbed the route with their friends. I think Josh and Pete have climbed the route a couple of times each. My guess would be that the route gets more than one or two ascents a year. In addition, there are most likely plenty of ascents (like Todds, the 17 year olds, John's, etc...) that are never noted.
One thing is for sure, the B&Y is an Amazing climb and I look forward to climbing it again...
Brian
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 31, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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Hey BVB...I myself thought that Alan Nelson had done it...But could be wrong...
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
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yeah watusi, alan nelson did it, but he took several tries to do so. i remember seeing a screamer he had engaged on a big fall that ended that attempt. shipoopoi
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Well, one thing is for certain, I HAVE NOT DONE IT!
although, if anyone want's a badass belayer, I'm your man.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
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come on mark, man up and lead it all, just say you are going to do it and dig the hole for yourself. after all you are "state of the art and the art of the states." LOL, shipoopoi
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KP
Trad climber
Fayetteville, WV
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This is a fuzzy memory but an old friend of mine, Phil Heller, who put up a bunch of hard, scary routes at the New River Gorge told me he did the Bachar/Yerian in the mid to late 80's. Has anyone heard from him? Have not seen him in decades now....
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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. . . there is not a consensus . . .. i really wish bachar were still here to shed his light on the subject. i'm really not sure what to do at this point, and am almost sorry i started this thread...but not quite.
i'm just a natural blonde trying to figure out history.
welcome to my world.
except for the natural blond part.
most people believe that the best way to learn about history is to talk to someone who was there. but then you learn that human memories are one of the most difficult things to make into historical evidence.
good luck with this one.
entertaining reading regardless.
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Mark Vallance
Trad climber
England
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On 25th August 1994 I hiked up to Medlicott with Tom Briggs, (aged 17) and Eve Prickett, (aged 16). Tom was all fired up for the Bachar Yerian, which at that time only got about one ascent per year, so we were surprised to find two other British climbers about to start the route. By the time they had completed the climb it was too hot for Tom to start.
Next day Tom and Eve climbed the route in excellent style. I thought at the time, that they were probably the youngest climbers to do so. That evening a case of beer arrived at our camp site from Peter Croft - a nice gesture from a great climber.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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I spoke with Mike W. yesterday about this topic..... He is almost ready to join the Taco......
I think the history is really important, and the Taco is the best place to get this all written down. I have never done the B&Y (I'm a good belayer, anybody need one?)but someday????
Mike's big question is this.
Who,on this list, carried the gear needed to do the last two pitches???
I guess John proclaimed, in the TM store, that if you rap off of the top of the third pitch, you haven't done the route.
Mike also says "it's pretty foolish to get on and spry about when, when how, etc.... if you climbed that, you have done something really special and that should be good enuf" ....
Maybe we can get him to "come up to the surface and bite" .... maybe a troll topic of.... The Hardest climb in TM??
Mike???
gk
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Waugh ...
finally Mike Waugh gets a glimmer of the recognition he deserves...
5 laps here, perhaps all without a fall?
Mike is the strongest climber I have ever seen.
More horsepower to weight ratio than Wolfgang Gullich, Tony Yaniro, Finuco,
Randy Leavitt, Ron Carson, Brett Maurer...
Mike used to rate a route 5.9 because he thought that was how hard it was, not because he was trying to sandbag... even if it ended up rated 11c
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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I did the 112th send in 93'! BITCHES!!!
Caylor
BWA HA hahaaa!! I've enjoyed this thread, but as usual, Hank steps in with that sense of humor and kills it!
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saa
climber
not much of a
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Just a completely random idea...
How about a climbing fest July 6 2010 in memoriam. That line would attract a
bunch of great climbers and a fundraiser might be workable. An audience might be big enough to have an impact. Or film it.
If one of you takes the lead, I offer to help organize.
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David Bell
climber
SLC Area
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Jan 18, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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Unless the route went undone in '88 Lance and I probably don't make the short list. I'm pretty sure we did in in '89 (Lance says either '89 or '90, for sure before the 1/4 inchers were replaced). I lead P1 & P3 (still break into a full body sweat remembering the move prior clipping the 3rd bolt on P3). Lance took a huge fall on P2 triing to down-climb out of trouble. Can't say for sure how far he fell but for those of you who know the route better than me Lance was above the 1st bolt and he hesitated too long climbing through a cruxy bit & took the ride. I realized that he was falling right into me, I was tied in short to the belay so I had no where to go so I just cowered into the wall. Lance missed me by an inch and when the rope came tight it caught me in the neck throwing me to the right (though faded the scar is still there 20 years later). Lance stopped below the flake section of P1, came back up and did the pitch....
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
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Brother Cozzy - The last 5.8 pitch was done on the first ascent.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2010 - 04:25am PT
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the fourth ascent is just a mystery to me. i was pretty positive it was mike waugh and daryl nakahira, until a conversation with coz and he was so sure that griffith did the 4th, followed by coz, then moffat. coz said waugh did it after him, but maybe he did it before and after since waugh did it five times. rob oravetz did it in 85, leading every pitch with coz following, and rob says he did it just a few weeks after coz did it with elliot robinson. elliot says that was 85. waugh, and nakahira, in phone conversations with me did it it 84, just a bit after kurt and eddy did it, which is exactly the way i remembedr it. coz didn't write the dates down.
i should get back to tim wagner, griffith's partner, i think he said they did it in 84. i heard moffat did it in 85. maybe moffat could shed some light on this, i got to get o hold of him, moffat did it with bachar, so maybe he remembers the timeline. i am so confused by this.
how about a round table discussion of the timeline during the woodsen shindig coming up in march 19-21. coz, waugh, myself, we got up therwe and try and figure it all out. just an idea. coz, i know you know your timeline is fact, but how do you account for the fact that elliot says it was 85? shipoopoi
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jan 19, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
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//This is how it went down. If Bacher was alive he would confirm.
1.Bacher Yerian
2.Shippopi
3.Kurt and Ed.
4. C Griffeth no falls witness by myself and Bacher
5.S Cosgrove no falls one week after CG. Witness by Bacher
6.Moffet
7.Maybe Waugh hi did years after me and Cristain.
Those are facts, I was there and lived through it. Bacher told me//
Coz, It's BACHAR. B_A_C_H_A_R.
Other than that, I'm sure those are the facts and I'm sure that you would know.
Arne
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 19, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
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Don't wish to speak for Mike, but here goes.
Mike has photos of him and Daryl climbing it, John took them and gave mike some copies to keep.
The date stamped on the back of the Kodak prints is "Aug 84" ....
Mike doesn't "do" computers, so we will try and get these scanned and posted on ST.
I hope we can raise up some more $$$$$$$ for TYRUS.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 19, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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If Moffet did it in '85, who else did it in '85? There can't be that many, right?
Therefore I'm thinking Todd Worsfold's August '85 ascent should be in the first 10, perhaps #7 or 8?
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Jan 19, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
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(My post above)Sept 1985 first pitch only due to late start, (Darkness saved my LIFE?)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 09:35pm PT
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Thanks, Walter. The Southern Belle FA was in spring/1986 (and Karma in 7/1986), so that means Dave Schultz first did the Bachar-Yerian in late 1985, about the 10th ascent, unless Gullich and Zak got in before that.
Here's what I think the list looks like, based on what people have posted.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mike gave me this, John took the photo, on the back you can read the "datestamp"...... back in the days of film, remember.
and flip it over
just to get it right.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Sweet shot Guy, thx for posting. Wazoooooooo run baby run
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Greg Epperson
climber
Joshua Tree
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.. He did the Photo shoot because Greg wanted photos of someone doing it in the sun for the better light, photographically speaking
What I wanted was to photograph John doing his route, we had this arranged and at the last moment John backed out and offered up Dave, disappointing for me but I was still psyched to photograph the route. I've been sick to my stomach with fear (for the climber) twice photographing climbs, this was one of those times. The protection directly below Dave in this photo is a drapped knob, no girth hitch, Dave just pulled the shoulder sling off and set it on the knob. The first bolt is somewhere below.
Epi
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Some fascinating history and stories here - thanks!
Does anyone know if John or Dave ever did the route a second time?
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dustonian
climber
Foresta
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Best thread in a long time, thanks Shipoopois!
You in Chile??
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Somewhere out there in Climber Land is a picture of John doing the first ascent of the B&Y. I know because it used to be on my wall in San Carlos. I made it from a slide that Dave lent me one time. I gave the slide and the picture back to Bachar eons ago after using it in an article on face climbing for the American Alpine Journal (AAJ), probably in 1981. In any case, AAC should have an internegative that they used for the printing.
This string knocked me on my head and made me remember. Think there's a scanned version of my article somewhere on this forum.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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from the American Alpine Journal 1982 article by Bruce Morris "Method and Madness; Evolution of Yosemite Face-Climbing Standards" page 41
This image appears on page 43:
it is possible that the original was lost in the fire that took much of John's collection of memorabilia.
A quote from that article:
"But despite the egotism and paranoia, it does seem quite possible to utilize more sophisticated means of protection placement while pre-serving an open-ended, summit-directed leading experience. The Bachar/Yerian route on Medlicott Dome in Tuolumne Meadows provides an example of such a productive crossover. What few protection bolts there are were placed by means of a hook, which is standard practice in Dresden where Bachar encountered it on a European visit. Such an arrangement allows the leader to move up confronting virgin territory while making independent decisions about length of run-out. This is a more adventurous tactic than beginning a route at the top and placing protection in advance on rappel. (Still, it should be kept in mind that preplacement, as long as the original number of bolts is never increased, does have the advantage of avoiding yo-yoing, sieging, and the drilling of bolt ladders.) Nevertheless, the bolt placements on the Bachar/Yerian, besides being very exciting in their own right, remove any doubt about the route being only an ambitious boulder problem. Bachar did exercise a fine critical judgment when placing protection, and the route now exists as an independent entity to be repeated by subsequent parties according to a pattern established by its first ascensionists."
[and kudos to the AAC for providing their archives to the community]
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Steve, Lionel ?? from NZ did it the summer you put up Shippopi. He and I were climbing the day you put that route up. Remember this NZ dude you were climbing with, Lance or Guy or some such. He was built like a linebacker and took a lead fall which pulled you about ten feet up. He must of out weighed you by about a hundred pounds....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Anders,
> Does anyone know if John or Dave ever did the route a second time?
Yes. See John's post from the longer thread:
------
bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
May 16, 2007 - 10:28am PT
I think I've done it three times - once with Yerian, once with Moffatt, and once with Dave Shultz (only the first three pitches though with Dave - we replaced the bolts on that one).
------
Here's a color original photo of the FA, from the longer thread:
photo by Brenda Lugo Bachar, posted by Walter
(sorry I messed up her name in my version of the list - it's corrected now)
The longer thread is:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/375380/Bachar-Yerrian
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Mar 11, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
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bump
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 21, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
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Just the thought of hanging off a skyhook laced around a fragile knob drilling a bolt gives me the jibblies.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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The most recent ascent of the B&Y was TODAY. Congragulations Andrew!!! Can't wait to hear the story.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Congratulations
to Andrew Rock and Jan McCollum.
Andrew onsighted the Bachar-Yerian today! Jan followed and was strong for the send.
Right now it's party time..he was smooth the whole way!
Cheers!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 15, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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BadasssssssssS!!!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 15, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
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whoa, Jay wasn't kidding when he said 'show'
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 15, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
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Not the way I would have scheduled the climb, but as soon as you left the ground you never heard another word from down there. The party that night was awesome though! There's something to be said for having all of your friends on hand.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Aug 15, 2010 - 04:37pm PT
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So Jan - what's the scoop on the route and training for it? You were up there (in the meadows) a long time. Any good "road to the BY" tips?
Congratulations! Mike
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 15, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
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Pimp all of the hard problems on Boulder 1 at Stoney Point to build crimp strength. Do lots and lots of continuous laps at some sport area like the Apes Wall at Malibu. Then work your way thru the tune-ups in Tuolumne.
The first day we started on the right at East Cottage and did all the routes working left thru Orange Plasma. We did Shipoopi the next day (not the 12 pitch). We went to Hammer Dome and did both pitches of Shadow of a Doubt and then Skeletor along with some gold slime stuff, and then after a rest day we went to the Medlicott ledge and did a bunch of routes there. That was more climbing in 6 days then I have done in a long time but it all paid off.
Oh, and the most important piece, find and train up a young rope gun!
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Aug 15, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
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Very nice update. Good go on the route!
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smoores
Social climber
San Francisco
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Aug 17, 2010 - 07:56pm PT
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Does anyone have the history of female ascents of the B-Y? I've read through two full threads about it now (this one and the one Clint linked to), and not one mention of any women having sent, or even tried it. If I had to guess, I would imagine Lynn Hill did it at some point, but I have never seen that confirmed anywhere. So - female ascents?
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Aug 17, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
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the honeymoon couple with repeat....
and what about Mari?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 17, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
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As far as I know Lynn only did the first 2 pitches then bailed. I don't know of any other women how have done it. I know lots that could though.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2010 - 08:53pm PT
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How many leg loops were on the first ascent?
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
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hat's off and congrats to Jan.
I want to be in that good of shape when I get that old.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 18, 2010 - 08:43pm PT
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Old?! Old?! Who the hell are you calling old?!
I always thought of myself as well broken in, not old.
I tell you though, it really helped that I lost 12 pounds this year in preperation.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Aug 19, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
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I knew that would get a laugh.
really Jan, outstanding!
i need to lose at least 25 more, maybe 30.
as far as the old goes, better defined by activity and willingness,
than chronology, you and Gary Valle are both about 27.
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Todd Worsfold
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Sep 28, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
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A belated post, not in here much... Ken Ariza was basically correct, I dragged a buddy up the BYR in 1985. After a long "trip" from North Tahoe to Tuolumene the evening before, we hiked up to Medlicott to climb the 10+ corner to the left of BYR, but it was seeping wet. Didn't want to waste the day, so I suggested the BYR in a temporary moment of insanity (I forgot having read about it several years prior). Didn't look too bad on the topo...At the time, the (bolt-protected)first crux was rated 11a/b. I managed to send it in a couple of tries, then scared the sh#t out of myself getting to the first belay. My partner came up, wanting to rap, but I talked him into letting me give pitch two a try.. After reaching that first bolt, it just became a matter of perseverance and repetition. The rest was rated 10b/c at the time (By John and Dave I'm sure). What struck me most is that the hardest moves on each section were always to be found right before the clip; 25' or so out from the previous bolt! Apparently John would push it until it got a bit dicey and THEN place the bolt. What an icon and legend..RIP John...
For the record, Eagles Way was not my first El Cap Route and was done in 1987 or so. It was Peter Mayfield who recommended the route; Troy Johnson was kind enough to demonstrate how to place a "bashie" (which turned out to be invaluable info!)
TW
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Sep 28, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
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Get 'Em
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 14, 2016 - 08:46am PT
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Lonnie Kauk on a most stylish, no hesitations, Bachar be proud ascent in 2014.
Peace
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 14, 2016 - 09:35am PT
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So far, this has been an all male ascents climb? Have any of the girls tried it?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Sep 14, 2016 - 09:56am PT
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Emily Harrington did it this summer. Don't know if she was the first woman to lead it though.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Sep 14, 2016 - 11:17am PT
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Lloyd Campbell
Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
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Sep 14, 2016 - 11:21am PT
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Nice to see the B-Y still draws respect and admiration instead of the standard clamoring by the most recent climbing generations about how the route needs to be "upgraded to 'modern' standards of sport climbing".
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klaus
climber
Slauson & Crenshaw
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Sep 14, 2016 - 02:39pm PT
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Erik Sloan can not free climb. Even if he were to add 1000 bolts to it he will never be able to free climb it.
Maybe he can power drill bolts to make an aid practice climb, like he did at Church Bowl, so even dwarfs can reach the bolts? That sounds like his style.
.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Sep 14, 2016 - 10:12pm PT
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It seems Lynn Hill has climbed the route,
leading at least two pitches..
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Sep 14, 2016 - 10:28pm PT
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Ron, Thanks for posting that up!
did he already do Peace?
Peace
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 14, 2016 - 10:48pm PT
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It seems Lynn Hill has climbed the route,
leading at least two pitches.. She climbed the first 2 pitches and then bailed - see G_Gnome's post in the previous page of this thread.
Still, those are very serious pitches.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Sep 15, 2016 - 12:12am PT
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I was surprised to read upthread that it wasn't until the 5th (?) ascent that it was first done no falls. Seems like a classical "the leader must not fall" route. I guess even the hardpeople get psyched out by big runouts and suspect knobs.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 15, 2016 - 01:13am PT
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I was surprised to read upthread that it wasn't until the 5th (?) ascent that it was first done no falls. I think you misunderstood a little.
The FA was without falls. [Edit: I was wrong: Bachar took a 50 foot fall when a knob broke above the 2nd bolt on p2. See posts below.]
And it had hangs on hooks to place the bolts on the first day. (Redpointed on day 2).
The next 2 on the list were attempts.
The 4th on the list was the second ascent.
1981,8,,1,John Bachar,Dave Yerian,"first ascent, over 3 days, no falls or hangs other than to place 4 of the bolts from hooks"
1982,,,attempt,Wolfgang Gullich,Thierry Renault,"Gullich fell 30' on p1, Renault fell 30' and 60' on p2"
1982,,,attempt,Alan Nelson,Rob Oravetz,"Oravetz fell on p2, ""Path of the Master"" article"
1983,,,2,Steve Schneider,Scott Frye,"Schneider led all pitches, no falls"
-----
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Sep 15, 2016 - 04:38am PT
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More milestones:
Alan Carne (55 years young) this year, Tom Briggs (17 years old) in the 90s. Any older or younger?
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 20, 2016 - 06:29pm PT
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More milestones:
Alan Carne (55 years young) this year, Tom Briggs (17 years old) in the 90s. Any older or younger?
Nice to hear. I met Alan last October at Medlicott. My partner and I were headed up to climb You Asked For It and Alan was working the BY on TR solo. We were the only parties there that day.
Bachar did indeed fall on the FA when he broke a knob on the second pitch. According to his account in his Alpinist article it was a 50 foot fall.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 20, 2016 - 09:51pm PT
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Jan did it at age 59, don't think either of the two fell, but he can add to that if he wants.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 21, 2016 - 10:17am PT
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Jan did it at age 59, don't think either of the two fell, but he can add to that if he wants.
I was under the impression from the Cole Gibson video that Andrew Rock led every pitch on their ascent. I was also under the impression that it was a no falls ascent for both climbers.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jul 28, 2018 - 06:39pm PT
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well, just got a text from my son. Led all pitches of the B-Y this afternoon. That kid is the real deal.
From his text:
He (son John pictured here) actually looks a bit like John Bachar
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Jul 28, 2018 - 08:04pm PT
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Congrats to him! What a thing to do! I wonder what he thought of it..
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jul 28, 2018 - 10:25pm PT
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"hard and scary". "12a". "tricky route finding"
He didn't get the onsight. Took a 20 footer when he got off the optimum path on the second pitch.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 28, 2018 - 10:39pm PT
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Pretty strong and bold.
Fact - today’s ethics would credit Steve Schneider with the FA, with Bachar only having aiding it and placed the bolts.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 29, 2018 - 09:22am PT
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Congratulations Mike Bolte, that is an amazing accomplishment for a young guy!
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Jul 29, 2018 - 12:58pm PT
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John Bolte's ascent was only one week after being blinded by a close encounter with a lightening bolt. This is what Mike Bolte wrote about John last week, "Call from John. Topped out on Conness up in the Yosemite high country to big thunder clouds this afternoon. Got down to where he thought he was OK when a lighting bolt(e) slammed in five feet from him. Blind and deaf for 30 minutes then hiked on out..."
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 29, 2018 - 01:11pm PT
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Mike, is this the same young man that you used to stop by for breakfast with at TPR?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jul 29, 2018 - 01:22pm PT
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Hi Lynne - yup the same guy. The first time I took him on a multiptich route (Errett-by-Bit) he announced on the first belay ledge that if he every got to the ground alive he was going to call Child Protective Services on me. He was 11 I think.
Despite that rocky start he has turned into a climber.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 29, 2018 - 01:36pm PT
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Indeed he has! Please tell him howdy from Lynne, as well as your daughter.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jul 29, 2018 - 01:54pm PT
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 29, 2018 - 02:29pm PT
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Thanks Mike, special memories.....and yes your son does resemble Bachar. Not that many ascents of the B/Y. I'll let Yerian know.
Wish JB was here, he'd be first to give your John a thumbs up.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jul 29, 2018 - 03:45pm PT
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Congratulations to your son, Mike Bolte! That's quite an accomplishment!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jul 29, 2018 - 04:41pm PT
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Kids and climbing. One of my partners started his son early. At age 6 the kid said "Dad why do I have to go to school? I just want to climb all day"
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Mike Honcho
Trad climber
Glenwood Springs, CO
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Jul 29, 2018 - 05:07pm PT
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I'm still waiting for you to guide me up it, Steve. Didn't we have a deal once?
I'm still solid with that team idea. Just got to get Burro Racing season done Mark. A few more weeks.
edit~ led all pitches in '92 on my way to City Rock competition.
Hankster
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 29, 2018 - 05:11pm PT
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Your kid looks like a cross between Bachar and Yerian. How did you pull that off?
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Jul 29, 2018 - 09:14pm PT
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well, just got a text from my son. Led all pitches of the B-Y this afternoon. That kid is the real deal.
Whoot! Proud papa I'm sure.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 29, 2018 - 10:29pm PT
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Mike that's really cool man. Proud dad.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2018 - 11:22pm PT
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mike, that must be a dream come true for you. tell your son good job for me. steve
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jul 30, 2018 - 10:13am PT
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thanks all - I am indeed a proud dad. If I wasn't spraying about, nobody would know but his partner I suspect. He is very low key.
In a variation to this thread's lead question, I wonder how many people have led B-Y. Could quickly put together a list of 20-30 folks from the various threads about it on ST. Is the total in the hundreds? For sure people have been going up there and doing it for years without any fanfare so it is likely hard to get a good idea. I have spent a lot of time in the Meadows and always look over there when I drive by and it is pretty rare to see anyone on it.
In no special order from this thread.
1) JB
2) DY
3) Steve Schneider
4) Christian Griffith
5) Scott Cosgrove
6) Jerry Moffat
7) Mike Waugh
8) Rob Oravetz
9) Wolfgang G.
10) Dave Schultz
11) Lance Bateman
12) Pete Steres
13) Eliot Robinson
14) John Scott
15) Brian Biega
16) Josh Horniack
17) Pete Chase,
18 Hans Standteiner
19) Alan Nelson
20) Tom Biggs
21) Hank Caylor
22) Alan Nelson
23) David Bell
24) Andrew Rock
25) Lonnie Kauk
26) Will Stanhope
27) Hazel Findley
28) Ashton Cruz McLean
29) Chase Leary
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 30, 2018 - 06:10pm PT
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Mike, just messaged you via ST. Let me know if you get it please.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 30, 2018 - 07:51pm PT
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Mike, got it. Thanks!
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Scott Burk could be added as he has done 5 ascents.
;)
Edit: Pete Chasse (wonder if he’s climbed it since he
lost his leg?)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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What's the story about George Ullrich and Mason Earle on that thing? I know they went up with the intention to not use the bolts, trying to rig other kinds of pro. I think they did a lot of it like that but ended up opting for actual pro at some point. Did they climb it?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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In a variation to this thread's lead question, I wonder how many people have led B-Y. Could quickly put together a list of 20-30 folks from the various threads about it on ST. Is the total in the hundreds? For sure people have been going up there and doing it for years without any fanfare so it is likely hard to get a good idea. I have spent a lot of time in the Meadows and always look over there when I drive by and it is pretty rare to see anyone on it.
In no special order from this thread.
1) JB (1981)
2) DY (1981)
3) Steve Schneider (1983)
4) Christian Griffith
5) Scott Cosgrove
6) Jerry Moffat
7) Mike Waugh (1984)
8) Rob Oravetz
9) Wolfgang G.
10) Dave Schultz (1986)
11) Lance Bateman (1988)
12) Pete Steres
13) Eliot Robinson
14) John Scott
15) Brian Biega
16) Josh Horniack
17) Pete Chase,
18 Hans Standteiner
19) Alan Nelson
20) Tom Biggs
21) Hank Caylor
22) David Bell
23) Andrew Rock
24) Lonnie Kauk
25) Will Stanhope
26) Hazel Findley
27) Ashton Cruz McLean
28) Chase Leary
29) Scott Burke
30) George Ulrich
31) Ed Barry
32) Hayden Kennedy
33) Tracy DuFriend
34) Drew Rollins
35) Rob Miller
36) Sean Leary (Stanley)
37) Todd Worsfold (1985)
38) Stefan Schiller (2009?)
39) Alex Honnold (2011?)
40) Alan Carne (2016)
41) Emily Harrington (2016)
42) John Bolte (2018)
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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What's the story about George Ullrich and Mason Earle on that thing? I know they went up with the intention to not use the bolts, trying to rig other kinds of pro. I think they did a lot of it like that but ended up opting for actual pro at some point. Did they climb it?
Ulrich attempted the route without the bolts, but ended up clipping the last one on the third pitch (thin slab). He'd climbed the route twice using the bolts to prepare, but didn't get much time to work on the third due to weather, etc.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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You have Alan Nelson on there twice, in 19 and 22.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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thanks Dan,
AntiChrist - I bet that even the ST Trump supporters and ST Obama worshippers can agree that the full B-Y experience only is achieved on lead. But, awesome to climb it no matter what.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Scotty on the right blend of coffee weed and ciggies.
Good chance Rush is on the boom box.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Some more names
Todd Worsfold 1985
Stefan Schiller 2009?
Alex Honnold 2011?
Alan Carne 2016
Emily Harrington 2016
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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It is pretty cool that there is a free climb in which, after all these years, it is possible to name those who have led it. Usually the complete lists are kept for big stone and top-end sport climbs. But even these, after a limited number of ascents, lose their status. Iconic.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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a tribute to John's skill and vision
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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New post idea....All the euro trash who took whippers or bailed off the BnY?
or...all the valley "locals" who are blowing each on this thread but never stepped to even try?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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I proposed going to TR all the pitches of the BY Too much work - just bring a sky hook and toss it in whenever to take a break - style of the FA.
The wall is nearly grid bolted to the left and right, only reason to pick this one is ego.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dude - all I see is a giant fuk'n slab - go anywhere, it's all the same - but preferably in the general direction of wherever someone decided to put the next bolt.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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^^^ JLP- Dude. Just STFU. Please.^^^
I’m sure your vitriol and bitterness will eventually
consume you.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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ah, ST at its finest!
More names of folks who have led B-Y?
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2018 - 09:09am PT
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so, the bachar-yerian goes to the summit. at least one of these names on the list did not go to the top...alex honhold only did the first two pitches. i suspect that some others rappelled from somewhere and did not finish the climb.
so, yeah, i'm sure bachar would get on people's cases that claimed to have done it but did not top out. so, there you go...
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Aug 10, 2018 - 09:14am PT
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Yep ^^^. And the last pitch is pretty scary with almost no pro too, just not very hard.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Aug 10, 2018 - 09:48am PT
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Hi steve - i suspect that would be a really impossible task to slice and dice the sample to those who topped out.
Now I'm wondering if the list above is low by 50% or a factor of 2 or a factor of 3.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2018 - 01:02pm PT
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mike, i know from being there in the 80's and nineties that there were about 2 or 3 ascents a year. except for the euro factor, i bet that list is about 75% complete for domestic climbers.
yeah, to hard to splice between full ascents and less-that-that ascents, but just making a point for the future ascensionist that in bachar's eye, you really have to summit medlicott to claim a real ascent. ss
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Aug 10, 2018 - 01:40pm PT
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I'm just an observer and fact collector for a book being done on TM. In interviews, among them Mike Waugh whose done the B/Y and You Asked for it a few times,"If you don't top out you haven't done the route" referring to Bachar/Yerian.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Aug 13, 2018 - 10:05am PT
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John said the third pitch was hard and required some real mental focus: like the first and second. 4th pitch was also a bit out there.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Aug 13, 2018 - 05:48pm PT
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4th pitch was also a bit out there
The fourth pitch is the only reasonably protected pitch as it climbs a crack. The last pitch (which can be linked with pitch 4 using a 70m rope) is indeed pretty out there, but is in character with the rest of the route.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2019 - 09:04pm PT
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lynn hill should be on the list, i believe she was the first woman to send it. ss
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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May 18, 2019 - 09:09pm PT
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Any idea when Steve? (Lynn ascent)
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2019 - 10:10pm PT
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mike, it was probably mid nineties i imagine. the answer is just a phone call away for me if you lie.
hey, psyched to maybe team up with your son for a new fa on the captain. sounds like you raised him proud. ss
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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May 18, 2019 - 10:10pm PT
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Hi Steve - yup, he is stoked to contribute whatever he can to your latest adventure up the Captain.
1) JB (1981)
2) DY (1981)
3) Steve Schneider (1983)
4) Christian Griffith
5) Scott Cosgrove
6) Jerry Moffat
7) Mike Waugh (1984)
8) Rob Oravetz
9) Wolfgang G.
10) Dave Schultz (1986)
11) Lance Bateman (1988)
12) Pete Steres
13) Eliot Robinson
14) John Scott
15) Brian Biega
16) Josh Horniack
17) Pete Chase,
18 Hans Standteiner
19) Alan Nelson
20) Tom Biggs
21) Hank Caylor
22) David Bell
23) Andrew Rock
24) Lonnie Kauk
25) Will Stanhope
26) Hazel Findley
27) Ashton Cruz McLean
28) Chase Leary
29) Scott Burke
30) George Ulrich
31) Ed Barry
32) Hayden Kennedy
33) Tracy DuFriend
34) Drew Rollins
35) Rob Miller
36) Sean Leary (Stanley)
37) Todd Worsfold (1985)
38) Ron Carson, Bill Leventhal (1991)
39) Lynn Hill (1997)
40) Stefan Schiller (2009?)
41) Alex Honnold (2011?)
42) Alan Carne (2016)
43) Emily Harrington (2016)
44) John Bolte (2018)
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 18, 2019 - 10:36pm PT
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Ron Carson & I, Bill Leventhal, did an ascent of this iconic route in September 1991. I recall that Ron wanted to lead all the pitches and when I said I wanted to swing leads he said something like you lead the pitch, rap back down and I'll lead the pitch too. I said fug it, you can just lead the whole thing then. He did and I was happy to follow it cleanly. I must admit that I would have been scared to lead the 2nd pitch. I'm pretty sure Erik Erickson and Matt Dancy witnessed our ascent.
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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May 18, 2019 - 10:52pm PT
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Didn't Tom Higgins (roped) solo it?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 19, 2019 - 04:03pm PT
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Tom Higgins tried it rope solo with a Jumar belay, but backed off of p2. He wrote up his story on this forum.
Jun 30, 2009 - 08:40pm PT
Probably, the BY saved my life. For a time, I did a fair amount of rope soloing, sometimes because I didn’t arrange for a partner as I was running to the mountains last minute after a full work week, sometimes just to be alone. Somewhere deep in the bowels of supertopo there’s a little piece on my self belay antics on the Owl Roof in Yosemite. I think eventually I did about a dozen rope solos, including the first ascent of Thy Will Be Done in Tuolumne. The ridiculous and dangerous part is I used a jumar as the self belay device, an item not designed for this purpose. I never fell on it, but came very close on a failed attempt of the BY.
Why I ever thought to try this run out route with my cumbersome and unsafe self belay system is incomprehensible to me now. I guess I thought I was climbing pretty well back then, maybe a year or two after the climb had been done, and that the technical challenge was not beyond me. As John says, there is a short 5.11 part on the first pitch, but between a tied off knob and cams for the layback, I felt OK. But the next pitch became more and more terrifying as I fiddled to move the jumar along, tired on sustained moves (seemed 5.10ish), and looked down periodically at the “system” wavering below. Between the second and third bolt, finally, finally I realized I would probably die twice if I fell, not only from just banging the rock but then rocketing into the woods when the jumar broke. Increasingly sane but rattled, I had to make a choice between down climbing to the last bolt or going for the third and retreating from there, though that bolt seemed about 20 or so feet away. Or was it? I thought I saw it, but couldn’t be sure I was seeing the dark hanger on just a dark spot in the rock. I did the worst thing of all - I continued on thinking going ahead was the safer option, then decided after several more moves I should retreat. Slowly, carefully but not calmly, I moved down, again fussing with rope slack and the jumar (sometimes using my teeth), hyperventilating, over gripping, mad and very scared. As I approached the last bolt and then the belay station, I felt a rush of thanks to the god I didn’t believe in. Blinking at the jumar, it looked more and more paltry, like something I picked up at a hardware store. I turned it a couple of times in my hand and knew my days of solo rope climbing had just ended.
As with many of our foolish antics and adventures, especially failures, we mostly keep them to ourselves. I never told anyone about this particular fiasco, though Vern Clevenger looked at me suspiciously one day and asked, face screwed up quizzically, “Did you do something stupid up there (pointing to Medlicott)?” I’m still not sure if he was referring to this incident or something else, as probably there was other foolishness of mine to remember on that dome. I took the easy way out. “No,” I said, and maybe there was truth in my lie – it wasn’t stupid, it was insane. Yet, thanks to the BY, I never again rope soloed or soloed in any way, and so live on to reflect back on all the good and ridiculous in my climbing days.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=375380&tn=120
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