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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 16, 2009 - 11:21am PT
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I suspect many of us here knew or still know Molly Higgins. I am remembering she rolled into the Valley around the Spring of 1976. Her arrival was not long after the tragic international expedition to the High Pamirs and Mt Lenin (23,405ft) where an entire team of Russian women were lost. She described how gruesome that experience was and in detail, too. A movie was even created eventually about that trip, “Storm and Sorrow in the High Pamirs”, originally filmed in 1990.
Anyway, Molly and I were romantically involved for about 4 months or so in the Valley and did some climbing there as well. Here are five photos I have from that time. I understand she lives way up north these days and married many years ago. In the past she has treated us to a few wonderful stories, most notably the tale of her all-woman ascent of the Nose with Barb Eastman in 1977.
These images show Molly, Barb Eastman?, and another lady with a Rottweiler. These shots are in the Cookie area. The climbing shots are from the Nutcracker. You can easily sense Molly's strong spirit and determined posture to life.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 16, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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I talked with Barb recently about the Book of Bird and she mentioned seeing Molly so she is still out and about. Still climbing too, I bet!
Speaking of Molly and Barb...Here is an account of their excellent adventure on the Nose from Yosemite Climber.
Barb really hates it that George chose to put the "goofy" summit shot in his book! Perhaps Tom Kimbrough can post up the more dignified one when he sees this thread and persude her to tell a story or two...?!?
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Dec 16, 2009 - 11:59am PT
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Molly and Barb first came to the Valley in October of 1973. We had all three taught together at Colorado Outward Bound that summer and I convinced them that they had to visit Yosemite. Unfortunately they didn't get there until a few days before I was leaving for my anthro fieldwork in Nepal. They did Monday Morning slab on my recommendation as one of their first Valley climbs, and then I took them to an easy two pitch chimney route near the first tunnel on the road to Tuolumne, the name of which I don't remember anymore. They'd never seen a chimney like that before so I led with my brand new hexes which were the latest thing.
I kept in touch with Molly and Barb for five or six years afterwards and was amazed at how their climbing careers took off. I got word that they had done the first all female ascent of the Nose while working in a village in Nepal where women were horribly oppressed. Nothing could have lifted my spirits more. I framed the summit photo they sent me and still have it with me in Okinawa.
I remember winning a bet when we taught at Outward Bound based on the outcome of the end-of-course women's marathon. Everyone else bet on another instructor with long legs who had already run a number of marathons. I was the only one who bet on Molly who seemed an unlikely candidate with her short legs. I knew already though since she was my mentor for my first Outward Bound course, that she had more heart and determination than anyone. Sure enough she won.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Dec 16, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
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Great 1-2-3 punch Peter, Steve and Jan! good stuff!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Dec 16, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
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Here's part of a letter that Molly sent to me recently about what she has been doing.
"I now live in Whitefish Mt where husband Larry Bruce and I moved 20 years ago to raise our daughter Marti in a small town with good schools, good skiing, and good rock climbing albeit it’s 60 miles away. We spent our time here dedicated to the cross country ski program, serving on its boards, coaching the kids, running the programs. Presently Larry is the head coach of the XC kids’ program and I’m his hard working assistant. Larry has a knack for keeping the training fun and also enabling each kid to fulfill his or her potential. I’m great at keeping the books and making room reservations.
I work at the small and excellent community hospital down the street and last night I got my 20 year pin, so you can see that I’m pretty settled. I still to lab work, now head of microbiology and working with 12 other women who are independent and a lot of fun, kind of like our old Outward Bound tribe.
After 12 years of intermittent rock climbing Larry and I got totally committed again in about 2001. We now live a partitioned life, half skiing and serving our community, half as climbing fun hogs again. Larry has a good sense of keeping it fun but also working toward better leads and so we’ve slowly progressed and that feels great. As you know, the gear has improved and so climbing is now so much safer and easier.
I love bolted routes, and camelots for cracks. And during the summer Larry and I travel and hit the many new climbing meccas that have developed over the last few decades, often meeting up with old friends. It’s a gas".
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 12:15pm PT
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Tami!
Four months' time back then was a whole season and almost an eternity. We had ever so much more growing and living ahead, each of us. We had a great time together though. I have always assumed I was the "Jim" who left her at the beginning of her story above. Leaving her was appropriate but at the time she was furious and confused; she had never met someone like me before (grin) and had given us her absolute best shot. And she was a completely first-rate person.
And too, I loved that goofy summit shot as well. That is kind of how those gals were you know. Perfect shot. And the accomplishment was quite significant especially 32 years ago. The Nose, though even then a very popular climb, was still one hell of a lot of climbing. And although Barb and Molly weren’t arch rockmasters, they were really damned tough and just kept working and it did turn out that the Nose was perfect for them. I remember one morning we found out we had kept Stevie Sutton up for hours with our amorous activities in an out-of-bounds area near Camp Four--- we had no idea anybody was nearby. He gave us death-panel looks for days.
Molly and I even did an ascent of New Dimensions by the way. And I will never forget what a gas she had leading the last pitch of Nutcracker--- you know the little headwall with the mantel (pictured photo #4). She would rave and gush, really fun to climb with; really a passionate person.
Also thanks couchmaster!
And thanks Jan for that info on Molly and Larry. Sounds like a great life, doesn't it! They got together shortly after she and I parted, so that is more than 3o years!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Dec 16, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
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Yes, she did move way up north and yes she married too Peter. He is Colorado hardman Larry Bruce. I climb with both of them but they're at it a lot harder than me. Molly still easily sends 5.11 splitter cracks. They climb a lot in Montana, Idaho & Utah.
Both of them dedicated years to coaching national level nordic skiers, which they're tapering from. I suspect they'll be doing even more climbing now.
Arne
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 16, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
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Never met Molly that I know of, but I always really liked that picture of the two of them at the top of the Nose. Quite evocative. Maybe it was even inspiration for Lynn?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 16, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
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I was on that ill-fated Russian trip with Molly, back in 1974. I liked Molly the first time I met her, but some of the guys on the trip gave her a hard time, claiming she didn't have enough experience to be there. Molly proved them wrong though-pulling her own weight and generally comporting herself in a competent manner.
By the way Jan, I worked for COB in the early 70's, as well. Did we ever meet?
-PamirFlavoredJello
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Dec 16, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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Actually our local boss (the Colorado director was John Evans) was a guy named Lowe and for the life of me I can't remember if it was Jeff or Greg but I think Greg? Tall guy anyway who later went into manufacturing climbing equipment. Was that you?
Were you working there when Molly and Barb were and a guy from Scotland named Davie Brown?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 16, 2009 - 01:52pm PT
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John Evans was a good friend, Jan. My brother Mike is who you're thinking about. I was an instructor but never a course director. I think I quit working for OB in '73. I think Molly and Barb (and you?) started work after that? I also think the Scotsman you're refering to is Davey Agnew, not Brown. A really powerful guy who was Scottish national champion in wrestling.
Coincidentally, Davey has dropped by my house in Ogden two or three times in the last year. That's after losing contact since '73. His daughter has a house not far from me. Davey periodically comes down from Jackson Hole where he lives to visit his daughter. It's enjoyable to renew old friendships like that, don't you think?
-Jeff
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Dec 16, 2009 - 01:54pm PT
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I'll pass it on Tami. I've tried to entice both of them to ST but they're so much of "the real deal" I don't think they choose to spend any time checking out threads. Molly is the nicest person on the planet, though she'd deny it.
Arne
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 16, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
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Ionlyski- give my best to Molly and Larry when you see them, will you? I don't think I've seen either one of them since the late '70s. Good people though, for sure...
-JelloSaysHiMollyHiLarry
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
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right, it was Davey Agnew. Totally legendary character; I heard about him from a nonclimbing restauranteur, Dean Betts, a few years later 1977.
Good on you ionlyski (great handle by the way). Let them know this IS THE real deal; we have just about everybody on here from back in the day, you know.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Dec 16, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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Jeff-
Sorry to be so confused about which Lowe. The summer of '73 is the only one that I worked. I tried for years to get hired by OB since my folks have a summer house in Marble and I worked every summer at a dude ranch there , but was told year after year that it was too tough for a girl? Never mind I tramped through the same hills alone all the time anyway. Then I went to the Valley, married Frank, and went to Europe.
The summer of '73, in addition to Molly and Barb, there was a girl named Susan, another named Leslie who was dating a Udall, and Barbara ? who later lost an eye in an auto mishap. Barb Eastman was doing her first summer in Colorado although she had taught OB in Oregon before. Molly had I think, taught maybe one other summer.
I remember Davey Agnew but I can't remember if he was an instructor or just came around sometimes. The Davie I knew was definitely Davie Brown and he had worked there before. He came to visit me when I was in Nepal and we hiked around the Khumbu together. Later I went to see him in Glasgow when I was teaching in northern England. Nowadays he's married with a teenage daughter and still living in Scotland.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Dec 16, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
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I showed Larry the thread on Grey Ghost the other day, cuz I saw mention of him and Vern Clemenger in it, so they know we're here. Maybe I can get him to post up some good stories. Oli might have a few and of course Michael Kennedy who still climbs with them.
Arne
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taorock
Trad climber
Okanogan, WA
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Dec 16, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
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Jan,
From my tenure with COBS (78,79). Likely, Susan was Susan Kinne. She was my course director a few times and one of the best "bosses" I've ever had. I also knew Carol Lowe who turned out to be a cousin of mine (once removed).
Brent
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 16, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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Sounds like we overlapped a little in '73 then, Jan. But I only worked winter courses so I could climb the rest of the year, so that might explain why we didn't meet.
I don't remember Davey Brown, but Davey Agnew was an instructor. Leslie sounds familiar but I don't remember the other women you mentioned. I'm surprised they used that line of thinking on you - that beibg a girl you wouldn't be able to take on the task.
I remember several strong women around back then that probably could have challenged even Davey Agnew. One of them was my girlfriend Christie Northrop, who was a real adventuress. Christie worked as an assistant on several courses.
-Jello
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Dec 16, 2009 - 02:29pm PT
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Brent-
You're right it was Susan Kinne. I knew Carol Lowe too but she wasn't an instructor then.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Dec 16, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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Jello-
I was in Marble when the first courses were "survival" courses for male Peace Corps. This was Bobby Kennedy's idea along with his 50 mile hike-in-one-day challenge. The Kennedys were big supporters of Outward Bound. Coming to visit Marble was how they got involved in Aspen too.
The years were 1959 - 1964. Paul Petzoldt organized the original courses and Tap Tapley and his wife from the Tetons were the horse wranglers. She was the only woman allowed to spend the night on the premises. There was a kind of military camp atmosphere to the place then- making boys into men and all that.
Horses were used for resupply because they mainly operated in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass wilderness area. One of the several reasons they shifted to the San Juans was for the easier resupplies by jeep.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 16, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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Four months can be a lifetime, if spent right.
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Dec 16, 2009 - 03:19pm PT
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As was referenced above, some people only need 15 minutes to make an indelible impression.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 16, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
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For those out there in contact with Larry Bruce, please ask him about the details on the FA of Hoser's Highway on GPA. What's the dealio with the name? What's the dealio with the single bolt anchors? Has he seen a topo of the route he thinks is accurate? Would he mind is somebody went up there and added a bolt to the belays?
Bruce
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
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Hilden, That is Hoosier's Highway. (as in someone from Indiana) not Hoser, as in a sexual reference. There is also an actual highway too, "Hoosier Highway". Great first ascent party there too, Steve Shea, Larry B, Molly H, and the equally fabulous Lou Dawson back in 1974. Its in the guidebooks of course.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Dec 16, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
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Bruce,
This is what I could get.
Oh my, this was a wild route. Eric Sanford, Greg Davis, Scott Woodreff and I put up this route in the late 70's. BIG run outs with hardly any protection, 5.9
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renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
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Dec 16, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
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Great to hear from our old friends , hope you are all doing well. Happy Holidays.
love, Larry&Molly Bruce
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 16, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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Peter,
I know about the route, Hoosiers/Hosers, my partner and I supposedly did the 2nd ascent after an article in Climbing Magazine noted that the route had repulsed all attempts (from strong teams of 'Valley Locals' nonetheless) at a repeat. The problem with the route is that after about the fourth pitch, the FA team must have started running low on bolts because all we found were single bolts, some of which had to have been belays.
It would be great if the FA team could mark the exact location of their belays on an accurate topo and then give permission to go up there and add a bolt at each single bolt belay.
Bruce
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 16, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
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Tami- If you are ever in SLC, Barb would be the best cold call you ever made...LOL Molly and Larry have done routes all over the desert including Wind, Sand and Stars On the Mace at 5.10d or so? If it was good they were on it!
Her wonderful account of leading the Green Spur appeared in Climb, 1977.
Fortunately, that last paragraph wasn't long in being undone.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Dec 17, 2009 - 12:20am PT
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I was just thinking that someone should also write about Barb. Completely different in temperment but also so competent. I decided my first course at Outward Bound, that if I got injured, I would want Molly to run for help (no cell phones those days) and Barb to take care of me while we waited. When I found out that she had become a nurse, I wasn't at all surprised.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Dec 17, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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Larry -
Pretty funny with my thinking I remembered what went on that day on the G Ghost!!
Chuck Cochrane called me up and set it straight!!
Do you remember throwing me in the river with Vern?
Great times - Glad you are well.
Tom Carter
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Dec 17, 2009 - 01:37am PT
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Renzo!
Good to get the update. I still hobble around on skis and shake my way up the rocks. Best to your clan.
Merry Xmas!
Todd
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Dec 17, 2009 - 03:09am PT
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I climbed a couple of times with Molly. Great gal.
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Dave Johnson
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
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Dec 17, 2009 - 09:42am PT
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I tool a ski mountaineering course from Molly & Lou Dawson in Aspen in the winter of 1975/76. We were all in our early 20's and spending weekends out without tents; digging snow caves, watching campfires melt deep into the snow - what a time. We even notched a 14er or two over the course of 5 or 6 trips. It's a sport I practice feverously today in the Tahoe Sierra (albeit with better gear). Molly was really fun to be with. She was super strong as well as patient and kind, always happy to be out there. Glad to see she is doing well.
Dave J.
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renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
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Dec 17, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
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What a blast from the past! I get pretty choked up hearing from Peter, Jeff, Jan. Thank you all for the compliments, and for the old stories.
I had never reread the old articles I wrote, but in doing so on Super Topo the dialogue sounds exactly the same as what I said at dinner last night, "Larry, how could we train this winter so that next spring in Indian Creek we could....... ". One thing is for sure, I haven't gotten any smarter. molly higgins bruce.
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renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
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Dec 17, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
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Hi Bruce,
I think putting in some new anchors on Hoser's Highway is a good Idea! We don't need another 'Anchors Away' Larry Bruce
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renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
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Dec 17, 2009 - 06:44pm PT
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I remember climbing New Dimensions with Peter Haan in Yosemite in 1975.
As he led the crux pitch he "rested" in an impossible stem and pointed out that he was getting a rest by placing his heel on nubbin hold, thus giving his calf a break. I use this rest all the time, and always remember him fondly.
Molly Higgins Bruce
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 17, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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A Big ST welcome, Molly!!! Were your ears getting a bit warm of late? Nothing but a bunch of softened nostalgics around here.
How does your Nose adventure sit in your mind these days?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Dec 17, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
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awesome thread.
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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Dec 17, 2009 - 07:05pm PT
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I suggested to Molly that her nom de plume should be "scarfacesender". LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 17, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
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As in Scotty Franklin's Smith Rock Scarface?!? Or are we talking Pacino here???
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renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
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Dec 17, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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Hi Steve,
You're nice to inquire about my memories of The Nose. In 1974 Barb Eastman and I were both recovering from devastating leader falls, hers on Leaning Tower (I think), me an 85 footer off Stetner's Ledges on Longs Peak in 1970. We started by leading all of The Valley's 5.4's. I remember asking Jim Bridwell if he knew any good 5.4's and he sweetly told me that Colorado was better (I'd just hitch hiked from Colorado). Barb was resolute, capable, safe, strong, and funny. What a partner. It took us 3 years to get strong and skilled enough to climb The Nose. Later, Barb went on to climb many more Yosemite big walls.
Of note, the well known goofey summit photo was taken by my husband, Larry Bruce, who hiked to the top of El Cap to assist our descent. I don't think anybody knows that he's the photographer.
Molly Higgins Bruce
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 17, 2009 - 08:36pm PT
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Thanks for the response, Molly.
I did the Leaning Tower with Barb and Peter Hollis and don't recall any horror stories so she might have taken the dive elsewhere or was being coy?!?
Did Larry take the serious summit shot, too?
Not to barrage you with questions but what do you remember about doing Wind, Sand and Stars on the Mace in Sedona?
What route are you proudest of, looking back?
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Dave Johnson
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
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Dec 17, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 18, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
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Chrome Molly Bump!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Apr 18, 2010 - 09:51pm PT
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Anybody here know of Connie Hilliard? I worked with her at a camp in Minnesota in the early 80's- I used to boulder this stone fireplace and she came along and did the classic "mind if I try?" and she just flashed it. She was a fabulous climber
Dan
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moacman
Trad climber
Montana
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Apr 19, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
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Saw sweet Molly today. Molly, Larry and Sassy are alive and well and climbing hard in Montucky.......
Stevo
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Sep 28, 2010 - 09:36pm PT
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BUMP!!! Yeah for the first women to break the glass ceiling.
AFS
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2010 - 10:09pm PT
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judith robertson
Trad climber
mazama washington
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Apr 15, 2015 - 03:25pm PT
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Looking for a contact for Barb Eastman. She was part of Outward Bound and we are celebrating our 50th anniversary this year and trying to reach out to all past staff. If anyone can help please send me an email; jrobertson@nwoutwardbound.org. Thank you.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 15, 2015 - 03:29pm PT
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Missed this one....Molly is great!
Last I heard Barb was married to Tom Kimbrough and living in SLC.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 15, 2015 - 05:00pm PT
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Done Judith!
Right you are Jim. I just saw them at the last Oakdale Climbers Festival where Barb gave a fine presentation about her life and adventures.
She had so much fun doing so that she has given a couple of repeat performances.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 15, 2015 - 08:24pm PT
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Super quality history thread Peter . . . where would this rig be without guys like you? I always really liked Molly's writing about climbing the Green Spur . . . very inspiring.
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Dec 19, 2018 - 11:33am PT
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For those of you who know Molly, you are probably aware she lives in Whitefish, MT. She and Larry Bruce have been here since the late 80"s. Last week the Northwest Montana Climbers Coalition awarded Molly the Honorary Member Award at their annual fundraising party.
"Our coalition would like to honor this woman as a true inspiration to young and old, men and women and everyone in between. Her grit, her dedication to training, and her ambition..."
Mollys long and impressive climbing resume, as provided by her husband Larry, was recounted and ended with-
"This summer, at 68 years old, Molly redpointed a 5.11c and a 5.11d at Point of Rocks, and got the first ascent of Khubla Khan 5.10c a few years ago- flashing the onsight, of course. Not only did Molly set the bar high as a women, a climber, and a seriously good human being, she continues to raise it higher with each year that passes."
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 19, 2018 - 03:25pm PT
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Thanks for letting us know about this.
Bravo Molly!
She is so solid as a climber and guide. Flat out inspiring.
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Dec 19, 2018 - 03:33pm PT
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IMHO. the nose summit shot from the original post is about as good as it gets.
Jan's is awesome too, but there's something about B&W. The first is a bit more whimsical too. (yeah, pure whimsy will get you there)
The picture, not them of course, should be in the YCA museum.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 20, 2018 - 10:06am PT
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Barb, Molly and Sue "Killer" Giller made the first all women's ascent of the Diamond on Long's Peak via D1, if I recall correctly. I would love to hear about that adventure and will work it into the next NACHA event in Boulder with any luck.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 20, 2018 - 10:15am PT
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Great to see that Molly as a climber still has the blessing of redpointing 5.11.c and d at the age of 68.
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Bob Palais
Trad climber
UT
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Dec 20, 2018 - 10:41am PT
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That's a wonderful tribute to Molly whose adventures chronicled in Climb and Yosemite Climber were among those that inspired my/our first pilgrimages to Eldorado and the Valley. We see Barb on the trails, and Tom Tue/Thurs mornings in the gym where he recently led 5.11s on his 80th birthday, both inside and outdoors. You all give us hope that there is still lots of adventure and achieving new goals as long as you want to! Barb is on the right in the purple shirt at an August backyard benefit for our new congressman who flipped a Utah district.
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Dec 20, 2018 - 06:53pm PT
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Great to hear the feedback from Molly’s old friends. Steve -I don’t have any more details on the D1 ascent but when I see Larry or Molly I’ll ask them about that. Also, thanks for all your historical posts. We could say that Molly is still history in the making!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 20, 2018 - 06:59pm PT
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Molly is an awesome human being and living the climbing life with true panache. Hats and balaclavas off to her extremely bad self!
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