Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 307 of total 307 in this topic |
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 13, 2009 - 09:25am PT
|
bvb's Premium Miniature concept was ahead of its time.
True, you probably won't garner any "mass media sponsorship"
and the "conquistadors of the useless" probably won't be around,
since the stellar rock climbing recreation in this region is anything
but useless.
True, there are no "crevasse" to fall into, and you probably
won't need a "helo rescue" but the serious brush guarding
and hiding the excellent stone of San Diego county is one
of this regions finest attributes.
Why the obvious route finding challenges, and the inherent
skills demanded by this type of terrain have not been widely
accepted - I have no idea.
Route finding skills, and dealing with the environment on its
own terms (you will have no choice) are universally upheld
in our sport, and San Diego rock climbing falls right in line
with these interests.
So, if you think that the brush is just too "icky" for you,
or feel it is better to let others develop and maintain the
access paths, then please, go to Joshua Tree.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 09:31am PT
|
And if you climb here, and if you get lost in or mauled
by the landscape, you are far from alone.
How many times have I heard "real climbers" bitching
and whining about this really neat aspect of challenge
provided by the terrain? Because of a few scrapes?
More times than I can count.
"eww, its hard to find things at Woodson"
And the problem being?
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 09:36am PT
|
I had supposed than the new school had universally
come to terms with this key attribute, but I guess it is
still the Provence of those who accept climbing as a
means of connecting to the natural world, and not only
"accept" the terrain, but celebrate it as an integral
part of the experience.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 09:52am PT
|
Remember, these are tiny climbs, hardly routes at all,
so the challenges for today's super climbers appear to
be few.
Look again.
Has Laverne had an onsight lead?
Has Starving in Stereo? (believe it has been led)
(Good on ya if you have)
And there are countless others.
Aliens and offset nuts have given climbers the tools
they need to perhaps put a new face on the game,
if they choose, and the game is the onsight lead.
What's the matter? Afraid of hitting the deck? True,
the ground is only maybe 30 to 50 feet under you,
and therein lies the spice.
Remember, the runout lead high above pro is only
one means of adding "voltage" to free climbing.
And, you are advised to lace it up, since eating dinner
with a fork is its own reward, and getting hurt far from
the car, deep within the densely foliated terrain could
be a bad scene.
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 09:58am PT
|
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 10:05am PT
|
It's all about attitude, and how you view the outdoor
resources of this fine region; boasting near perfect
granite and near perfect winter weather too.
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 10:10am PT
|
Oh come on Ray the weather is not that perfact, have you looked outside today? It's cloudy out, HAHA!
I see your back in the hood, hope your well.
T2
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 10:46am PT
|
In the 70's and 80's we "knew the game".
The psychological barriers of techncial difficulty.
The limitations of what now seems like the clunky
gear of the day. And just the sheer volume of thousands
of acres of rock climbing potential, waiting to be explored,
were some of the "walls" we ran into.
The top rope was often used because it suited the terrain, our
abilities at the time, and we adapted to it. There seemed little
point drilling bolts in some steep face on a 40' boulder, when
hundreds of huge boulders with (hopefully) cracks to climb
awaited discovery.
There was little peer motive, and it seemed like little peer
support or impetus to push beyond what was deemed the
unspoken "mode of operation".
And so we did our best, we had our "fun in the sun".
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 11:15am PT
|
High Ball sessions at Mt. Woodson were without doubt
some of the most fun we had. The unspoked "prize" going
to the ones who could send the most, the hardest and
the highest. Or, to the one who could send what no one else
thought was sane, over and over again.
Tom Scott, bvb, Jeff and Adrian Almodovar, Greg Epperson,
Mike Paul, Behay, Rick Piggot and others locals providing the
"fuel" for days and days of "playoffs" - a rich game, motivating
each of us and inviting us all to taste a little "humbe pie". Yes,
it was competition, and yes, we competed like mad.
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
|
Thanks for posting Ray, interesting stuff for sure!
Cheers!
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
|
Mt. Woodson is the most well known and historic climbing
area in San Diego county. It has great access, sees lots of traffic
and enjoys the greatest concensus on difficulty.
In the 70's and into the 80's almost no one seemed to believe
we had anything harder than than 5.11. So many climbs at
Woodson remained undervalued for some time. But that began
to change and in my mind it changed fast when Jonny Woodward
came down and repeated one of the areas benchmark classics,
John Bachar's Driving South, giving it a grade of solid 5.12a.
Now, keep in mind, we had no internet, but word of the "new
grade" spread fast - it was news. Here was someone who knew
what they were talking about telling us that yeah, we had climbs
harder than 5.11!
That climb, as many of you know, was established as a ropeless
highball. Bachar's account of the "hideous bailouts" and "you
don't want to fall from up there" told to us right here on
Supertopo. So, yeah, its a good TR, lots of fun and maybe the
accomplishment of a personal goal - very cool. But, from one
standpoint, as a TR, you have not repeated it the way it done
on the FA. Maybe you get "points" for fewest TR rehearsals?
Mine was two, spread out over two years before a ropeless
send in 1984.
BTW, on a low hill west of Mother Grundy, I found another
even steeper and more buldging "Driving South". No highball
madness here, and since the jams are more positive, no harder
either, only .12a, plus the rock is a touch grainy, too. Just another
day out in the beautiful hills of my beloved San Diego backcounrty.
Kinda doubt its seen a second, but you never know. :-)
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
|
Beta for Laverne lead/on-sight lead:
Perhaps bring a pad for the start, there is a slab behind
forming a shallow cleft.
You pull out of there on a size transition from 1 1/4"
into a 1 1/8" section, pretty overhung. Its great!
The crux is up high, straight-in thumb up pinkies
up a smooth face.
Bring Aliens and know how to use.
In case, just in case, the crack (which was mud filled and
had to be cleaned) may have sprouted grass or shrubbies -
you may wanna look before you go.
In plain view for years with the word "Laverne" spray
painted on the side :-) Maybe 5 minutes above the road,
on "Woodson South".
Estimated grade as lead? Sure, I'll go out on a limb, maybe .12b
Total height: maybe 30+' tops. :-)
Spice-o-rama.
Betting it has never seen a real (non-TR) ascent.
And is, for sure by today's standard, very leadable.
ok - that's good for a while...
Have a swell day.
spRay
EDIT: in S.D. I see it like this:
if its low enough to highball, TR to rehearse if needed.
if its too high to highball, TR to rehearse lead, if needed,
and number your rehearsal up front.
Top Rope ascent is rehearsal/practice/ fun in the sun
"training" or bouldering...
Not valid FA in the big picture sense.
The rules don't change in San Diego.
(they just take a siesta)
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
|
dig it, can't send it, but I dig it.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 04:32pm PT
|
Establishing access paths (trail making) evolved a lot between 1975
and 1985/6.
We started as dumbass beach kids hacking away, but the nose for
establishing a singular line of access was born. For a couple good reasons.
Clearly it made sense for the terrain and, you want a logical route right
to the good places. Trail making became our art. The other reason was
obvious - only an idiot would "brute force" a bushwack line in these
hills - you'd get ripped up, stinging nettle raining down on your sweaty
back or, stopped cold by a wall of thick brush. No chainsaws allowed,
stealth mode, sensitive access.
The first tool was a machete, they worked "ok". The real deal though
is the three person team. Lead goes forward on pre-marked line
(you have to scout in advance) stomping brush down with boots
(long sleeves/jeans/hat/protective eye wear mandatory) The second
does the cutting, lopping shears preferred. The third clears the line,
tossing the brush off.
By making solo missions to scout a line, and working it in stages, major
trail sections were built up, accross, and over some pretty big hills.
Then we had cool places to go, bring our girlfriends, backpack in,
climb, camp and have a blast all by our selfish Sandi-Ego selves.
How many machetes got worn out?
How many lopping shears destroyed?
A few, for sure. :-)
|
|
Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
|
Don't forget to mention that all of this trail building and exploration was taking place in rattlesnake territory. I had more than one heart-stopper while tromping through the scrub and surprising one of those little guys. Made the bouldering seem downright safe...
Eric
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
|
oh god. i remember some epic bushwhacks. but one stands out as THE most epic. the scumbags had spotted a new crag way out in the east county. we made plans to go back and look it over up close -- from the road the thing looked like arch rock: huge, perfect stone, stacked with laser-cut splitters.
long story short, the approach took us three hours. to go maybe 1/3 of a mile. we spent much of that time crawling on our hands and knees through a hellish tangle of coastal chapparal with full packs on. progress was made only through great effort of will, brute thrashing, and a total disregard for our bodies. this was maybe '77, and we hadn't yet discovered the joy of pruning shears.
we arrived at the crag spent, out of water, and looking like we'd all been under the lash. our cloths were torn to ribbons and we were covered with lacerations. i'm not making this up; we got totally fuking yodelled. we never even roped up -- we were too concerned about how much time it would take to reverse the approach. best part? as san diego crags can sometimes do, the cliff had shrunk from a 300' arch rock monolith to maybe 80 feet.
but the splitters were there, and they were perfect. we never went back.
|
|
can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
|
Ray, you need to upgrade you understanding of how to do "Battle of the Brush" in SD. When we were opening the T-domes and Rainbow back in 87, Warbler made it possible for us to do it by supplying the proper tools. We opened a few locales and made it seem civilized without the double overhead brush, though it required a team effort with a brush hook, loppers and the occasional chain saw. Rainbow was a great example of how to beat back the brush.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
|
re-read my post Pat.
no chainsaws allowed in SE county - stealth.
besides, the saw can't get the roots out.
our mode suited our money and how
it worked for us given the terrain.
please feel free to provide
your own methods in any
detail you like: T-domes
ain't the Mother Grundy.
edit: its YOUR thread too, eg:
"at suck and such place, we found napalm
worked like a charm".
also, bvb, that FA part is drivel too,
we all know how it works for various
areas - your views here very valid.
go for it, eg:
"what olson said is horseshit and we
all know it, etc. etc.
LOL :-)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
plenty of room for input
and pics here, folks.
Ray
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
|
hey warbler are you gonna post pics or what. i'd love to see some of the new crags, especially the highly speculated upon but rarely seen granite sportcrag somewhere in the vicinity of rainbow/temecula/steve mcqueen/dark side of the moon...
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
|
thanks Kevin,
exactly, and if Woodson ain't the hub no more,
tell us what is - being dated is my bag now.
ok, I'm getting on a plane right now.
B great to hear/see some other SD
stuff...
B back tomorrow.
|
|
can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
|
no one ever said there would be evidence.
|
|
rich sims
Trad climber
co
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
|
Ray
Red Book C&B of SDC page 92 I found a sneak 20 minute approach told to me by a guy who climbed EC Mt. in the 50s.
If this is the place I remember by, in, or through the reservation. It was 89-90 just before I moved to CO.
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
|
Kevin check your email.
|
|
Tui
Boulder climber
SD
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
|
So I have this 5 page guide to woodson that has section 3 "the missing link, and other wonders" and "heart of the congo" written on it. The version I have is cut off on all sides of all 5 pages. Does anybody have the full version of this guide?
Also does anybody have any info/maps on all the stuff that is bolted between PhD and Vice Principals? There is a big wall with bolts up to for two lines. I also found one that looks like Driving South but has one big diamond shape pocket on it. Or does anybody have info/maps on the stuff that's below Fall Semester towards the Y Crack (I think that's what it's called). Any and all info and maps would be great. You can just email them if you don't want them posted online.
The Deerhorn Guide would be appreciated as well
Thanks.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
|
An SD area article from the May/June 1989 issue of Rock & Ice.
|
|
Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
|
Hi Ray. Remember one we did where we poked our way out thru the brush to the east quite a ways. I thought it looked like a climb I had seem pictures of from Smith Rock, you picked right up on this and named it the "Grain Reaction".
Out this evening at the Happy Boulders with the neighbor's dogs, cool, good session.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 12:04am PT
|
Another article on San Diego bouldering.
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 01:50am PT
|
Hello Ray!
Started climbing here in '71.
Was on many FFA's with Bill Breunner/at the Gorge BITD.
We climbed all over East County.
Was possible the first person to take the Santee Boulders seriously '71-88'.
Lived on El Nopal st. across from Magnolia Boulders 70-80's boldered alot.
I use to boulder on some of the cleanest free standing stones in El Cajon/Santee '71- but they were all blasted sooner or later to make room for industrial/residential dev.
I haven't read any posts hear just noticed title not sure what you are looking for.
Trip~
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 07:45am PT
|
notes on San Diego rock climbing
south east SD climbing access : mas importante
Private land - access sensitive!
Being lo-key is the sum of many things.
Goal is to: "not be there".
Climbing is within eye/ear shot of residents
dwellings, they can see and hear everything
that goes on, pretty much.
Furthermore - this stuff is near the US/mexico
border - and is today under a different level
of "scrutiny" than before. I'm sure you get my
drift.
This list'll make me look like an ass,
here goes:
* no dogs, ever
* drive slowly once off 94
* turn off the music
* avoid the "off belay" thing,
no need, you can see everything.
* be mellow, avoid loudness
* wear discrete colors, gear
* smile if U see residents
* park responsibly in good spots
* NO TRASH, this is SD, not LA
* procede into the brush, no hang out
* don't get killed, or have incidents
* if you are asked to leave, break out the Ak, and empty it :-)
* one more - no laughing or having a good time, dammit!
Trip - glad to hear you enjoyed SD rock climbing,
very happy you have joined us, any and all input/
stories or whatever welcome. Thank you.
Eric Beck - I was very lucky to share so many good
times climbing with you. It really meant a lot to me,
you need to know this. Can't thank you enough for all
your friendship and good natured support over the years.
My life, and my life as a climber would not have been the
same without it. Thanks again.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 08:01am PT
|
BITD, we climbed for ten plus years
on private property, and were only
thrown off once.
Access on private land - my magic wand
I'm gonna wave my magic wand here and
"create" the Deerhorn Valley rock climbing
area of the future.
* The place is set up: top/lower off anchors are in,
lead bolts in.
* Trails well defined.
* There are a couple small campgounds out there
run by residents, modest fee, quiet, no water, basic.
* Access to the rocks is chanelled thru "single points";
(always has been, its the brush).
* There is a moderate voluntary day use fee, sorrry, private
property - don't see any other way.
If you had private property with a really cool
recreation resourse on it, and you didn't know
anything about it, how could anything move
forward?
Is this a "vision", more like economic sense.
In other words, if you could generate revenue,
cash money, off some rocks and open area,
that resourse might start to look worthy of
being "negotiable" - I don't know.
In any event, the use would have to be lo-key.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 09:42am PT
|
Rock climbing in Deerhorn Valley began in 1975 by three
social D-listers from Mar Vista High. We had a new set of
stoppers, hexes, a rope, oval 'biners and, most importantly,
Basic and Advanced Rockcraft by Royal Robbins.
After a few of the initial clusterfukked forays, and the
inevitable meltdowns coping with our newfound need for
"accountability" - us beach kids began to move. None of us
even knew Mt. Woodson existed, that was "a long way away".
I now recognize how much I benefitted from my first two partners.
Owe 'em a lot. But, I mean, let's face it, we were basically retards,
spazmoden-incarnate, and if you'd seen the stupid sh*it we pulled
you would have said, "these idiots are gonna get killed, quick". But
we didn't. We dumped the 3/4" piece of surplus webbing we had for
rope, got rid of all the homemade chocks, pinched Basic and Advanced
Rockcraft off the Southwestern College bookstore, and became
rock climbers.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 10:23am PT
|
There was/is a need for a "summiteering" approach at Deerhorn.
We had to get on top of some huge boulders to set the top rope.
And to do that, we had to learn aid. Well, there is was, right in
Basic Rockcraft, "oh, its basic, its in the Basic book, must be easy"
and off we went.
Nailing up a nice solid Rurp seam in a 50' boulder is best done alone.
You have time to think, equalize placements, and move up safely. Two
Rurps equalized can be pretty good, little if any flex. Once, some guy
phoned me, upset about how he almost decked on the above seam,
giving me grief for the A1+ rating - guess he didn't equalize, ripped gear
and pulled his belayer off stance. Sorry, but - what can I say? The ground
is right there, and the 'plus' meant something on the rating. We didn't
know about the R and X thing back then.
Decent aid skills are a must for every rock climber, period. And the
greatest thing about Royal's books is - what's in them and, what is not
in them. The reason we had no incidents and were able to learn on
our own was because of those books. They do not lie. They do not
pretend to "show you everything". What you get is a simple utilitarian
concept, adaptable to each and every situation, inviting you toward
the things you must learn over time in the field. No substitute.
And more, there is a real spirit in Royal's books, and its the authentic
spirit of Yosemite trad climbing - you just get it, its right there. Also I
took Royal's idea of simple adaptable tools, and applied it to my life's
work. And guess what, that worked too. Positive ripple effects?
Top that.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
EDIT: RE: RR's books, needless to say a wide and varied info-base
is always relevant but, the need for on-the-fly problem solving skills,
the skills that are essential in dealing with the seemingly infinite
number of variables in the field, is vital. Royal's books are about
"adaptability" - nuff said.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 11:42am PT
|
imho, the greater deerhorn valley area is almost -- almost -- as good as woodson. but it's remotely possible i'm biased on this point.
warbler -- when we gonna see some pikkys godammit??1?
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
|
Aid climbing in San Diego
There are huge boulders with inviting features to aid on many of
the hills in southeast San Diego county. And because of our early
exposure to the right instructional resource, we took them on.
Basically, we climbed every thing we could, no question.
Solo on a route scouting mission up the south slope of Mother Grundy,
I came upon this spectacular very overhanging straight-in 60' Lost Arrow
crack inside a huge corridor formed by two leaning monster boulders.
At first I thought, OMG, I found the ultimate finger crack and its in the
shade! Nope, Arrows - mostly tied off - all the way. That summer I had
nothing to do, so packed my sh*t, hiked up and nailed the thing.
Remember, this is the type of stuff where you do not want to
rip gear. The good part is, no time constraints, no belayer needing to
piss or start whining. You can take your time, evaluate each placement in
detail, enjoy youself and learn something about the rock and about
how pitons (ping feedback) and aid systems work. Even if you have no
wall goals and you only want to free climb clean, sooner or later you
will come across fixed pins. And if you've spent some time using them
(in an even moderatly "critical" way) you will "know" something about
what you are looking at when you encounter one on a free climb.
Also, these aid climbs are a good way to find out if you like aid, if you
are into it enough to venture up onto walls; what is it like? How is it
managing the gear, how does self belay work? Am I dreaming, or is
this something I can really do? You can find out on your own and in
solitude if you like, no problem. But, don't expect a great deal of peer
support for this, ok? Its going to be you, the hills, and the task at hand.
And any satisfaction that comes from getting "up close and personal"
with the rock and having a fine day in the outdoors alone. Yes, alone,
thank you.
Many types of aid practice can be done in semi real-world conditions
out there. Lots of things about aiding on granite - with maybe the exception
of expando - can be set up, practiced, and understood to a certain level.
You will be in complete control of the situation, if a feature looks iffy,
you have the option to place a protection bolt, just like you would on
any other runout. Guarenteed, you will find out something about how
far you can push it.
I found out, of course, that I was not going to be a big wall climber; too
light (wall racks are too high a % of my weight) and am far too short
as well. :-) But, that didn't stop me from from going, learning what I could
and having a blast doing it. So expect no kudos from "the team". This
(solo aid in SD) is not about brownie points and, that's the best part.
:-)
swellymon, neat story, thanks.
you know, we once named a climb
"Obscurity Rules"....LOL
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
|
Warbler, those are some really great pics. Makes me homesick for sun and dry rock.
On another San Diego note, I remember climbing the crack on the west side of what we called "Seal Rock," just north of Escondido on the west side of I-15. It's kind of a stand alone rock up at the top of the hill. There's a great hands-off hands curving, overhanging crack on the backside.
After my friend and I were on it--struggling mightily, I might add--I mentioned to Eeyonkee that we'd done it. He said something like, "Oh yeah, what is that, like 11c, or something? I remember that the top part took some bigger cams." I just kind of nodded. Inside, I was thinking, "Crap! You led that thing??"
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
|
Ray!
Thanks for the hospitality....no place like home!
I'll take sometime and do some catch-up, see where ya all been...looks like ya all been put-tin them dang rattlers on the skedaddle.
Speaking of rattlers, I recall a trip 4-5 of us made one Spring weekend @'73(Vawter may have been along) out to Corte Madera. Camped Friday night and after breakfast started the relatively short hike up to the face. We were planning on doing the 'Open Book'(Cameron/poway mt.boys FA 5.9?).
All were anticipating a fun weekend at our new haunts. As we finally made our way to the base of the 'dihedral', we had already encountered approx. 9-10 of those slithery beast. Generally right before we stepped on their tail. I am telling you, it was an infestation. If V is around, I am sure he could elaborate.
So, we get to the base of the climb and here we have 3-4 basking right on the belay rock/ledge. It was so rife with them I recall someone questioning whether or not 1-2 might fall out of the corner somewhere above. Even as we stood there I noticed everyone looking around and behind, expecting one to crawl up one of our legs any moment.
Really creepy kinda juju feeling going on. Not knowing what we would encounter on the circuitous journey back down we decided late Spring was mating season, or the were all just out of hibernation. We opted to bail, in light of the isolation/time required to get help.(This story makes us sound like a bunch of wussy's, but they didn't have any Helli's/cell phones etc. in '73)so everyone concurred.
On the way down, we took turns 'leading', not knowing if the next step down would land on one of them, our vision often being so occluded by brush etc.
Been to similar places and saw not a one.
Well, not really that much to gain from this story, just mentioned the rattlers above and this memory came to mind. I am going to read now and maybe have a little something else to add(I don't want to ask any redundant questions!)
Kevin-incredible shot up-thread...kind of our own little 'Nirvana'. Where is it? Is that you with the red ruck-sack?(do not answer if redundant).
Trip~
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
|
Kevin!
Just now noticed the shots of Corte Madera above, awesome. Brings back some memories. We should start charging admission.
Super climbing shots.
Thanks!
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
|
Great pictures Kevin. Now that your posting pics, I am sure you got all kinds of good ones to share.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
|
Make sure to look out for them ill eagles. They be out a-pillagin' yer jobs!
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
|
Here's a San Diego rock climbing mystery photo. I'd conferred with BVB (the climber in the photo) as to where it was and we'd thought it was Corte Madera, either S Face or Spacious Enterprise, and I was all ready to post it as such to this thread, but closer inspection of the original large scan revealed the black dot above Bob to clearly be a drill and that he has a hammer on his hip, so I know our earlier conclusion is wrong since I don't think we ever drilled anything out there. It's San Diego for sure, circa 1977 or 78, but does anyone have an idea of where? Stonewall, maybe Babies On Fire?
That SD County chapparal bushwacking is burly for sure, I think I still have scars on my palms from blisters inflicted by military surplus machetes. Its right up there with the best brush I've found in the Northwest.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
|
right on Kevin,
look, when ya get the winch fixed on top,
I'll air-lift my dolt cart in, hop on and make
"an ascent".
great pics all.
B back tomorrow.
Ray
|
|
Port
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 07:15pm PT
|
Eagle peak is the BEST sport crag is San Diego. In all honestly Im more than a little disappointed that a guide has been published. For the last year it has been a great pleasure to climb new routes as they appear on the wall with no idea of the rating. I wont be buying that guide. Its more fun to explore the crag. I hope this wont attract throngs of people to this gem. Thanks again Kevin for for efforts.
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
|
Warbler!
That last shot^^ reminds me of Rebuffet/Alps.
Primo!
|
|
Port
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
|
I dont know what climbs these are but just thought I'd add some photos.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
|
NICE looking stone and lots if it! Thanks for posting all those shots!
Rather frustrating that the climbing community through the Access Fund or some more effective mechanism hasn't been able to at least narrow the closure areas down to something realistic. Most of those species put up with people just fine and are more than willing to get in your face if they are not! They nest on buildings...
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
|
warbler, are those boouldering shots at the 'bow?
|
|
Port
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
|
Wow...what a great photo. yea, thats the one. There are two lines there. The climbers left felt like 5.11 and the right felt 5.11+ or so, maybe harder if my memory serves me. Both were great leads.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 12:34am PT
|
san diego ftw bump.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 12:38am PT
|
Warbler has one of the best eyes in the business for spotting new lines ....
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 01:15am PT
|
damn. i know where i'm going this easter.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 11:23am PT
|
Thanks for the positive email everyone.
T2, thanks for the warm thoughts - sorry for the slow reply -
wishing you and yours the best, you bet.
OffWhite: props for all your hard work in San Diego rock climbing.
You are a founding father. Wishing you and yours the very best
as well, always.
bvb - honestly, think Woodson stands on its own. Deerhorn is
different, they could be compared but have, and I hope will
continue to, serve different functions. Nothing could replace
"The Woodsonian Institute" in SD climbing history. Nothing.
Also need to mention, for the record, the exemplary contributions
of Greg Cameron and Rick Piggot - these guys kick A.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 12:39pm PT
|
Deerhorn Valley - a changing of the guard.
I left in the mid/late 80's, came back to socal in the late 90's
and hooked up with the late Rick Corbin, went out to Jtree for
some fun desert camping.
In the next site around a campfire stood a group of climbers.
Could hear there voices but paid no attention until the word
"Deerhorn" was heard. I walked up and said, "no one climbs
there anymore". Conversation stopped. Blank suprised looks,
one guy goes "we climb there, who are you"?
Turns out it was Bill Maki and crew who - using the old guide -
took over at my fave crags and did a flat out great job. It
seemed amazing to me. Bill and partners saw exactly what
I had. Way overhanging face climbs, deep diorite fins, stuff
I thought maybe some day some one would TR. Bill equipped
them and the other worthy lines (Inflateable Doll) then did the
lead proper. And of course, he led the "Fang arete" a "dream climb".
As well all know, drilling gear BITD sucked. Quartz content in
the rock compounded the problem making for cratered holes.
Ugly. Bill's accurate comment "there were some bad bolts" was
met with a nod. We were strapped for cash a long time, funky
home made hanger concoctions and a hand full of button heads
were all we had sometimes. Still, it opened the climb, left a "mark"
and some of the stuff got led; Primal Man ('77 - 10a) on Dinasaur
rock - straight up a steep pronounced swath of beautiful chicken
heads. Bill and crew replaced all the junk - done deal.
It was our intention from the start to do everything ground up.
The Bunker ('75 - 5.9) the first roped climb done in the area and
the Fang ('76 - 5.9) were done that way, onsight. Facelift ('77 - 10a)
marked a change. With a hook and a drill, I - the spastic noob - headed
up, set the hook and started to drill. "Hall of Fame" road rash from the
ground fall caused me to reconsider. I gazed at the landscape, acers
and acers of steep stone. Almost no one, except for we three dweebs
climbed out there. Mainly, we had the place to ourselves for years and
needed to build a lead circuit to get better; can't just top rope all the
time. A line was fixed, three bolts off jumars, and the flood gate was
open.
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 01:08pm PT
|
In that T-Dome article it list's Jim Campbell as the climber on High Voltage when in reality I believe it is Rick Lovelace.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
|
the 'bow -- some of the best of sandy eggo!
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
|
more 'bow. stellar stone. the best.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
|
coupla a years ago warbler. oh HELL YEAH!
jeff leads lookin' fully sw0le on the golden perfection:
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 01:43pm PT
|
Thanks for the invitation, Kevin.
I spend plenty of my climbing time clipping bolts these days but won't pass up a tasty thriller either.
The bumpersticker that I never quite got around to printing up, Sport Climbing- Alpinism's Answer to Menopause!!!
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
|
^^^
too funny
again, great pics all.
I just had the funnest dream,
really -
I was at the beach, here in IB,
and, everyone was there..
there was a party going on in
an apartment, I found it by
accident, even TM was there,
standing in the hall smiling.
everyone was inside an apt, busy
getting plastered...
I was like, I'm outta here, and
started up the beach - over a
sand dune comes a little suv buggy,
almost pitching on an endo as it
ripped off the dune, then -not kidding!
then I go - what the F? a full size bus
going full speed. - no way! - hauling A up the dune,
flys off, lands and almost breaks in half - everyone was
laughing their asses off! we were all there -
even Jaybro, and watched as these vehicles kept going
inland, crashing into someones pad. applause.
then some people started playing baseball
where I was standing, the batter hit me one ball,
I caught it, tossed it back, it skipped off the ground, so...
I kept going up the beach...where do I live and
why do I feel so great? I wondered...finally, after
looking all over the place I found
my place, made out of light blue fiberglass - like
a bungalow sized out house. I fiddled with the lock,
went in, opened the window, and stepped up on
the wrought iron railing, looking out over the pacific -
it was a splitter afternoon, I just held on, and
couldn't stop smiling :-)
cu guys later,
Ray
EDIT: in my dream, when I stood in the hall of the apartment
building, TM Herbert was there, as mentioned, he was tanned and
smiling a bit, no hat, looking straight at me, I turned left, looked
in the open door of the apartment, behind a person standing inside the
doorway, people were partying, The person, a man, turned to me and
smiled, a kind smile - it was Karl Baba. then I left,
on the beach were bunches of people, and I kept looking for Jaybro,
figuring for sure he was there, but never actually saw him. the ball
I threw didn't skip, actually it hit the ground and rolled, bad toss,
I tried to throw well, didn't - on the way home, I tried 3 or4 doors
on different apartments, going up and down stairs, none of them were
right. at one point, I crossed thru and inter section on a street and
walked right past Clark Jacobs, very clear, he was smiling, I
remember wondering why I never realized he was such a fine spirit
 that's it. It was a hyper vivid dream, rare for me)
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
|
Cool thread for sure!! Makes me as well pine for the place...My little brother just opened his own tattoo parlor in SD and wants me to assist him......
|
|
can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
|
bump for the Warbler, Watsui, bvb and all the other SD folks
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 10:46pm PT
|
Warbler: Next ACSD meeting I should ask you about Bloodline. I might be willing to give that a go onsight... I intend to get out to EP more this year!
Josh
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2009 - 11:43am PT
|
Deerhorn Valley - realm of the party gods.
How many times did we get sh#t faced drunk
and stoned out of our minds up there?
It went on for years. Before the climbs during the climbs after the climbs and
quite often too much beer camping out at night. I am sure the birds or the lizards
or whatever found my "burrito barf" in the bushes a rare treat. Holy sh*t.
If you took all the weed we burned up there from '75 to '85 you would probably
be looking at about three huge bails sitting in front of you.
This had an inverse effect that "stimulated" the climbing. When we
got too fukked up to climb, we grabbed our machetes, headed off into the
thicket, went exploring and found cool new places to do more bong loads
and cool new climbs, all over the place.
Once we were so trashed driving back to IB, I thought my truck was stalling out
for real - sh*t! Right in traffic about to hook a left up a freeway onramp. In a
panic I said aloud "there's something wrong". Dave glanced over, knowing smile,
message recieved, I pushed down on the gas pedal, the truck was fine.
True story.
Homegrown "grass", mexi, lumbo, thai stick, infinite variations of homegrown
green bud, anything we could get our hands on. And, the devastating uber-
lord of all, Humbolt; there was no fukking question about that. Dave had a
tree house and grew some green. He also had a pit in his backyard covered
with window panes for a hot house. Dave's weed was way better than mexi;
sometimes we'd break open an LB and find an old tennis shoe or other
"artifact" in it, not to mention all the stems.
We'd read how grit climbers often belayed at each available good spot, that
was good news, we could stop, hang out, and pull more tubes. The FA of the
Fang is a classic example. We needed to cut away some brush in order to have
a neat new spot to hang and rip some loads. Dave led the thing wearing a red
Wildy Klettersac (donini, now you know). Inside was his "unit", weed, and water
carried in a glass mason jar - how the hell did he do that? It never broke! At
the belay between the pinnacle and the main block, we consumed more
marijuana, prepping for the challenge of smooth white granite soaring above:
maybe 30' of actual climbing. :-)
Oh, we adapted to the "environment" alright. Strong steady onshores flowing
inland provided us with what can best be described as "god's own air
conditioning". Hard to light a match - Bics hadn't come on the scene yet.
So, having read Basic and Advanced Rockcraft by Royal Robbins, we used
our hard-wired "adapability" skills once again and developed our own
techniques to suit the specific demands of the situation. Magifying glasses
became a standard part of our kit and, the "Magnafry" was born - let the
wind blow, we lit our bongs with the Sun! Good god.
So, why all the "self medication"?
Mine would remain a deep dark buried secret and a burdon for years.
And I only learned about Dave a few months ago. I was told by a fellow
"I.B. youth" the truth. Dave's dad had been run over and killed by a car
just outside his house when he was a small boy. It was a terrible accident.
The person telling me looked me hard in the eye and said:
"they didn't even clean up the blood".
They put Dave on some kinda meds early, after that,
he was always considered a little "different".
So yes, rock climbing is good stuff, for all the reasons we know, "strong
medicine" as DR called it. Couldn't have said it better myself.
And Dave, I am so sorry that happened to you man. So sorry...
I will see you in the next life ol' friend, we'll get baked good - and climb
and climb till the sun don't shine.
Guaranteed.
Ray
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
|
keep puttin' it down ray, 'cause i'm picking it up.
|
|
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
|
Rainbow is like a dream. A combination of so many of my favorite granite boulders.
Wasn't there during snaky-poo season....
Thanks for all this stuff guys.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
|
Thanks Ray, Kevin et al - something good to read on a rainy November day.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
|
in december, january, february, and march, winter storms will blow through san diego with lots of cool temps and rain, then the storm will clear out, the sun will be brilliant in a scrubbed sky, sometimes you get an offshore santa ana thrown in for good measure, and the grass and mustard just pops. it's gorgeous and the granite can feel like flypaper. when the conditions are just right in san diego, as they are so often during the winter, nothing else compares. it's simply the best.
|
|
Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Back of beyond
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
|
Climbers with the itch have been exploring SD County for decades, and there's still more unclimbed rock to be developed. As so many have noted here, a bit of brush, heat, snakes, or other approach hindrances are typically encountered, but these and other difficulties are a part of climbing's tradition. Living my whole life here as a frustrated mountaineer, there wasn't much choice but to get on the rock, with the icy peaks being set so far from my home base. But early day trips in the 70's to Corte, Deerhorn, Lakeside, Los Coches, Woodson, Santee, Mission Gorge, People's Wall and the beach bouldering below, Cajon Mt, Dos Cabesas, and Stonewall, lead to more current climbing at McCain Valley, Poway Crag, Valley of the Moon, Descanso Crag, Descanso Falls, Long Valley Peak, and Eagle Peak just to name a few. And its not over yet! I just started work on a 350' tall crag that surely is going to give up some great stuff over the next few years.....Yeah, SD's gotten huge, and we're stuck in the corner of the nation so it sucks when trying to get outbound, but besides our local crags, it really isn't too bad with Tahquitz and Suicide, Yosemite and the great Sierra, NV's Red Rocks and Mexico's Canyon Tajo as major destinations less than a days drive away. And where else can you visit desert, mountains and beach all on the same day? Yeah, the SD vibe lives on........
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2009 - 10:22pm PT
|
good overview AM,
that's one of the things I was was fishing for here,
neat to hear about your crag - say, without giving
up too much, how 'bout posting a sneak peek pic
sometime?
be great to see...
thanks again for the post.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
|
nice. soooo much rock in SD, it'll never run out.
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 12:48am PT
|
Whoa Ray,
I honestly couldn't follow all the tokin' up stuff, but, is that Dave Hatchet you're talking to? Is he gone?!
Good thread though...
Brad
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 12:53am PT
|
Whoa Beehay, no it is no one you
ever heard of, why did you think Hatchett
would be down in IB?
never mind...
oh, and uh, glad you "couldn't get through it"
honsestly...
if there's anything constructive you'd
like to add about SD rock climbing,
love to read it.
|
|
Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 01:08am PT
|
Bump...
FROG
Great post long time Mike Fogarty
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 01:26am PT
|
This is such a great thread. I really love living in the Northwest, never really looked back, but this heady mix of nostalgia and splendid new stuff is pretty intoxicating. Thanks a bunch ya'll, got me thinking about a trip back to the spawning grounds.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 02:54am PT
|
Kevin, I sent you an email,
but have no idea how I can help
access. My honest feeling is that
access issues are the business
of todays active climbers.
I opened an area, Bill took it
farther. I dealt with access in
my own lo-prfile way for over
10 years.
If the climbers in SD want to
climb there, they should go
for it.
If the area doesn't see activity
it's ok by me, because it isn't
a resourse I need.
Bringing it up here is a matter
of sharing opinion having climbed
in SD a while, and some tid bits of
obscure history.
That is all.
Thanks for all the
great posts, everyone.
Ray
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 11:48am PT
|
thanks Wes,
if you wanna check out me old crags
take hiway 94 east,
left (only) on Honey Springs Road
drive up a ways, right by the road
on left is a L arching crack (LaBanda) graffiti on it
a bit east, is an abrupt right hook
onto the Mother Grundy Truck Trail
the Pinnacles face west
short approach, can't miss,
you will see em on Honey Springs
road.
notes applying to access in full
or
keep going out SE on the truck trail
till it levels in a semi wooded area
look right, along a low hill are
neat things to climb.
or, keep looking to the right,
the Truck trail branches - the right
branch goes out to Blackout past
a gate - climb over.
not a lot for the first time visitor
perhaps, the climbing can be diffuse.
the Mother Grundy truck trail is neat...
at any rate, have a swell time. :-)
Ray
edit: google earth helps
search Mother Grundy peak
or Mother Grundy Truck Trail.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
|
wes, your "girly" claims are so totally invalid without pics.
just sayin'.
p.s. i'll be in 'dago 12/24 - 28 so it looks like we'll just miss each other. so rest easy -- looks like you'll be spared the schooling you so richly deserve.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
|
Wes, watch out for "The Woodsonian Institute",
you may be sent to The Vice Principles Office"
if you don't already hold a "PHD"...
where many have received a well deserved "paddling"...
:-) just sayin'...
|
|
Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
|
Ray,
Here's a teaser, a view of the lower portion (100') of the rock taken from a friend's helicopter. Perhaps you'd like to go out there some time with me?
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
|
amazing pic AM,
looks kinda like a euro crag - good find
and thanks for sharing.
there was a time I would have
loved to have had something
like that to develop etc.
have at it.
when I was openeing Deerhorn I'd
bring others out to send stuff I could
not so the pace could continue.
that stuff in the pic looks steeeeep
very cool.
I love going new places and exploring but
am fully beached these day, gotta pay back
to my body, and having neglected it, pretty
bad back thing, legs not doing well -
I may be on the couch for a year? tough
to say. I really appreciate the gesture -
what a thrill that would be!
thanks again for posting that pic
gotta say, overall, I'm blown away
by the SD offerings/potential - ha!
pretty funny...
have fun man
tear it up,
Ray
|
|
survivalmademedoit
Trad climber
Grantham, New Hampshire
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
|
I cut my teeth in San Diego--mission gorge, woodson, santee boulders, etc.
Great to see how many of those i climbed with (BVB, Mike Paul, Tom Scott, Dan Carrol, BEEHAY, Adrian and Jeff, FROG, Greg E, Paul D, Werner) are still in the game or at a minimum, their efforts to make SD such a great climbing area still live on.
Great memories!
Mark Vojtko
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
|
Vojtko! How's it hangin' dude?
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
|
what is she, 14 years old??1?
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
|
wes those are neat pics,
gee Kevin, I'm impressed.
might be kinda hard to imagine
one place having so much, and
so much room for exploring and
finding one's own till ya realize
San Diego county is bigger than
the state of Rhode Island.
ok
well, still got some odds and ends
stories coming, some slander and
full on sh*t talkin too...
wait, here's some sh*t talkin' now!
always kinda wondered why
Deerhorn was considered
"obscure" 'cause not only are both
sides of the place visible from
a paved road, the hike is only
minutes, plus, you can see the
crags from the orange ave overpass
on hiway 805 in chula vista, the 2nd
biggest city in SDC - you can even see
the Fang from there, no problem on
a clear day...
LOL
don't worry, its gonna get deep :-)
Ray
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 11:17pm PT
|
geez ray, i never thought of deerhorn as obscure. most places in the u.s. it would be considered a destination area.
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
'dago
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
|
Nice stuff here everyone!
Anyone check out the top of Mt. Lawson, east of El Cajon? Went bouldering/top roping there bitd.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
|
speaking of deerhorn, recognize this thing ray?
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
|
VOJTKO!,
I was at the Santee Boulders 3hrs ago, had to finish with a headlamp. Anything's better than a f&*king climbing gym. I went once.
Brad
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
|
bvb, I think that's one of those ones I walked
by, took one look at, named it, rated it and never
climbed!!!
used to do that all the time,
check up thread on the bakeage
article - truth, stranger than fiction.
Deerhorn north - good send bvb!
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
|
nah, pretty sure that's deerhorn south ray. it was pretty much the first thing you got to after hiking into the easter island boulders, in a shady little corridor formed by two boulders.
that's beehay raptly worshiping the stone in the lower right of the photo!
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
|
Hey,
What happened to Mark V.'s post? I went back to check his last name's spelling, gone...
Ray,
I was never deep like you guys, a simple minded construction guy, guess I saw Dave H on the T Domes, thought you were talking about Deerhorn. Like I said, don't have the attention span (or the chemical assistance!) to read it all.
Brad
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
|
Vojtko is around.
He's here in NM at the moment.
I'll tell him to check back on this thread.
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
|
Yeah Bob, I was waiting for you to quit d!ckin' around on that 5.6 crack so's I could crank the dimes on the face...
Let's talk some smack when you're here in December.
BH
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 01:39am PT
|
Props the the Big Guns
Self esteem is interesting, isn't it?
In the 70's we were isolated down in south east San Diego county.
All we had were a couple instruction books and what was in the
public library. And in a couple weeks, we'd read all of 'em.
But it was still weird. Because there was, in our isolation this
undercurrent or unspoken notion that what we were doing
"didn't count".
Since all we had were these dinky climbs that clearly no one
cared about, being reinforced by the fact the place was basically
deserted.
This led to a bit of a complex. A state of casual disregard for any
value that may have really been there. In truth, we didn't know
what the hell we were doing and it showed.
Then one day my partner Rob dropped by and he was excited.
He handed me this book. I took one look and couldn't believe
it. The book was Pat Ament's Master of Rock.
It was like a bright light came on. Guess what, not only did
other people climb boulders, they wrote a book about it too!
Amazing. For us, and especially for me, San Diego rock climbing
was never the same.
Especially after getting a look at the pictures. And especially
that picture of John Gill sending The Thimble. Big impact.
It rearranged my brain cells and I started to study the rock
and the moves in a whole new way.
So, anyway, it's really special to be able to share this with
John Gill and Pat Ament right here on Supertopo. In fact,
it kinda blows my mind.
Pat, thanks so much for recognizing what you did, and for
writing that book when you did. Positive ripple effects all
over the place. And John Gill, thanks for being such an
important inspiration to so many climbers for many many
years. Talk about integrity.
We were just lost idiots in the socal burbs and for us,
a book like that was solid gold.
Now, I am pretty sure that book was stolen too, ok? But I
swear I did not steal it. The bookstore paid Pat's invoice, so
we just ripped off the bookstore, not Pat Ament. Just wanna
make that clear.
Fact is, we woulda pinched the stuffed moose head out of
Stanley Andrews if we thought we could. Hey, what do you
think those running shoes were for? Blue Nike waffle trainers
with the yellow swoosh, remember?
Thanks again guys, props big time.
Ray
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 03:38am PT
|
The Warbler
Imagine being a young social reject, an aspiring rock climber, totally
head over heels in love with the sport, sitting in his bedroom in his
parent's house reading Mountain magazine.
Reading about the exploits of the amazing new generation of Yosemite
climbers. It stimulated my mind, filled me with healthy ambition and a
drive to better myself. Very impressive stuff.
Now, imagine that same reject getting to meet one of those guys for
real. And remember, this is someone who is deeply involved in the
climbing action and culture of the Valley, a part of "what was
happening" in a very real way. Putting up not only cutting edge FA's
on rock, but on the dream-like frozen waterfalls as well. But more than
that - way more - Kevin was not only really cool to me, but genuinely
accepting as well.
It has taken me a lifetime to truely put a value on that kind of
acceptance from someone like him, and the value is priceless.
It told me something about Yosemite, the climbers and the culture,
and helped me begin the long climb out of my sorry little shell. And
what's more, he came from San Diego, meaning that hey, highly
skilled, famous and very cool climbers came from the same region
I did. Inspiring? You bet.
We shared some travel time, a few laughs and some nuances, including
seeing a snake that seemed to "glow" out in Joshua Tree. Good stuff, it
was all good, really was.
Over the years I'd heard about his ongoing development of San Diego
rock climbing, and his role in the all important access issues facing
climbers. What can I say?
My hat is off to The Warbler, a multi-skilled multi-talented man with
keen intuition and a heart of gold.
And, for me, still an inspiration after over 30 years.
Thanks Kevin, you rock.
Ray
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 06:48am PT
|
Bump for the cool SD sh#t...Seeing as I was born in that place...
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 09:56am PT
|
Nice thread, Ray! Quite a body of great photographs, Kevin. I'm going to have to read this all of the way through when I get the time.
|
|
Redwreck
Social climber
Echo Parque, Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 10:02am PT
|
Loving this thread. I just got a copy of the old Kennedy/Hubbard San Diego County Climbing Guide and am looking forward to exploring.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 10:41am PT
|
fer chrissakes warbler, we'll buy you a damn slide scanner! digitize that stuff before it becomes lost forever!
my hard drive is laden with classic pikkys i've pinched from the taco.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 10:48am PT
|
Kevin, I can download the current drivers for my
canon scanner - its full on with a tray for scanning
slides, I never use it, its in a bag in my closet.
great unit.
use it as long as you need, just fire me an email if you like.
I could drop it by a little later this week,
no problemo...
Ray
|
|
survivalmademedoit
Trad climber
Grantham, New Hampshire
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 11:45am PT
|
Hey Guys,
BVB & BEEHAY--Hope you guys are well. Great catching up on the latest scoop about everyone. In all, things are hanging well (and when i'm out climbing, I still hang as much as I ever did).
In all, things are great. Living in New Hampshire now, but visiting Survival here in New Mexico. Had a 20 year layoff from climbing, but always fun to get on and touch the stone. Great to hear stuff about San Diego too! Much more fun grinding away skin cells on real stone vs. that plastic stuff anyday (plus, I don't have to get bitched at when I touch something with the wrong colored tape).
BEEHAY--heard you and Dan C. are hardcore mountain bikers these days? BTW: what's Tom Scott and Paul Dowdy up to? What's the best way to get in touch with them?
FROG- Great thread!
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
|
SD is the best climbing ever.But what do I know? I've never been anywhere or done anything.I want to spend the winter down there.If someone could just drop me off at one of those areas I've not seen.
|
|
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
|
Keep it comin' Boyz!
Eastern county has heaps eh?
Did a few routes on the Lowenbrau Pinnacle(is that right?).
KW- dude, Get. That. Scanner.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 06:00pm PT
|
lowenbrau pinnacle. my god, i haven't heard mention of that since the 70's.
Into the wayback machine, people! Time for a little stroll down memory lane...
|
|
Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
|
Survival,
TS is here and doing well...still cranking. PD has been living above Colorado Springs in Woodland Park for many years. His back isn't doing so well so he don't rock climb no more, and his peak bagging days are slowing down, but he's still skiing. i hook up with him at least once a year for some powder runs or hill climbs.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
|
drljefe,
your best bet is to plot your gps grid,
and zip line in off a helo
full tactical, spectrashields up
the brush may fight back,
if your team gets hit, don't
fool around - fall back,
get on the sat phone,
and call for a helo evac
sick sh#t out there
so, don't rule out
a bag and tag sar ops
emphasis on the "bag"
good luck
|
|
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
|
Ray-
ummm, didn't roger that!
papa's got a brand new bag.
WAAAAY east
like almost
or in
Imperial county
where there is
nothing
but
rock, no
brush
no
nada
not even a
pullout
off the 8
I gander
and wonder
if it's "hands"
or if at
75
it's Oh dub
or fingers
usually
at
sunrise.
sorry.
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
|
Here's a couple of dusty old crappy pictures of Deerhorn for Raymond...
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 09:02pm PT
|
Too cool Off White!
Much appreciated :-)
memories...
Kevin, bad news.
the slide/neg tray for the scanner
and the usb cable
are AWOL
repeat AWOL
looks like they defected...
dang it!
heavy straffing revealed no sign of life
mission aborted.
how bout we take up a small
donation, snail mail to you and
get this mission accomplished.
seems to me a small price considering
all the film you shot, not to mention
raw cost of all the routes, etc.
its your call :-)
Ray
EDIT: Off White - how come Dinasaur rock
looks so low angle now???
thanx again.
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2009 - 12:23am PT
|
Doug,
I KNEW that was Galen in the middle of the 1st shot, 2nd shot confirmed, funny sh!t.
Mark,
Curly and I make many a twenty something cry for mommy when they try to ride with us. Mt Biking is a great compliment to climbing; technique, commitment, line selection, strength.
Climb with Tom S a few times a year, still going strong.
Haven't seen Paul D in decades.
Brad
|
|
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
|
More please.
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
|
Lets move from the inland empire closer to the coast. This is Boomer Beach, a chossy beach bouldering area, but loaded with charm. I'm sure all these routes, shot in the late seventies, have eroded away.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
|
great shots Off White,
looks like a young Beehay
in one near the top.
Completely forgot about the beach.
Thanks for posting.
Also, Mike Fogarty!
so glad you could join us,
many years eh? pretty amazing.
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
|
Killer photos, who the climbers? Looks like BVB in one of em.
Peace
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2009 - 07:15pm PT
|
Kevin, that new stuff looks dreamy. I'd love to see some of your old stuff scanned up. I usually squeak in a Boomer visit anytime I'm in SD, the ambiance is great.
Climbers in those shots are mostly Galen Kirkwood or Bob VanBelle, with one shot of Frank Noble, the curly dark hair on a roof.
|
|
Shano
Trad climber
921OB
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
|
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
|
so i'm gonna be in san diego over thanksgiving and won't have a car. will be staying in clairemont. who wants to drive me bouldering??
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
|
Ray, Bee Hay was never that young, nor that lean.
BVB, planning to leave town next WE, you'll have to get yer spankin' another time!
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2009 - 01:07pm PT
|
now THAT is the Beehay I know :-)
hope all is going good for you man,
thanks again for posting those old
pack pics a while back - it was/is
appreciated.
be careful in that holiday traffic Brad, ok?
Ray
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
|
so i'm gonna be in san diego over thanksgiving and won't have a car. will be staying in clairemont. who wants to drive me bouldering??
still fishin' for a ride bump.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2009 - 06:43pm PT
|
bvb - you know I would, too injured,
gonna get my head stiched onto a new
body - they can do that now, I seen it in
the movies...
|
|
jeff leads
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
|
Call me BVB....
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
|
The Evil Upper Case Twin?!?
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 02:55am PT
|
Sorry for reviving the thread, but I'm planning on heading up to the northern T Domes next week (above the tractor one day, and probably the middle area the week after). Since I've lived here ('86) I've always stared up at those hills and since i started climbing a few years ago I've been wanting to hike up there. Since then I've made it up to the boulders above the weigh station quite a few times, and hiked 3/4 of the way up the steep side of the east (of the freeway) hill below the 3 giant eggs sitting on top. most of my friends are boulderers (as am i, but im an alpinist at heart) so the approach is a bit too extreme for their tastes and so finding people to team up with is hard.
Is anyone still going up there or would like to come up? I'd love to meet up with anyone willing to make the hike up there, and anyone whos familiar with the way would be even better.
Im also trying to set a day aside to getting up to the dome on the other side of the hill, overlooking the santa margarita river (temecula gorge). I've gotten most of the way hiking up the private road after old town and cutting west above the gorge rim, but i didnt have enough light to go further. Same thing with approaching from the weigh station (the long way) and cutting across along a trail to the top of the dome.
heres a link to a TR that some guys did to it. anyone know who bolted the stuff and what the real ratings are? http://poorboy44.smugmug.com/Climbing/2006/Temecula-Domes-Hell-Hike-Recon/2021552_pTDZw#103583186_r44X9
Back to the east hill again, has anyone done the approach from behind the conservation camp? I've heard from a friend that someone got up there with no problems, and other times ive heard that people were ran off the alarea. I really wanna get up to those eggs but there looks like some amazing spots along the backside as well.
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
|
yeah i can imagine its been washed away, however the brush above there is no problem as it was burned out a year or so ago and still hasnt recovered. I've seen that trail coming from where the KRTM antenna is, and ive yet to go all the way up to the house to ask for permission as their property line (and front gate) is far from their house so id have to trespass to even get up there to ask. I guess i could leave a note? haha.
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 05:04pm PT
|
hey warbler, in post #100 you put up some pics of a canyon with a guy standing and an overhung boulder stating it was new rock. where is that at?
oh also, how long ago has it been since you guys rebolted? Just want to know if i should be bringing any tools with me or not.
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 08:29pm PT
|
Hey Warbler check these out. Kurt Smith on the what I believe is the first ascent of "The best of both worlds" 5.10c around 1986.
Check out the background of Temecula. Betcha it looks a lot different now.
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
|
"High Voltage"
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 08:54pm PT
|
^^ Sh*t... thats when i moved to the area with my parents. i was 5. haha
really looking forward to getting up on those rocks.
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
|
I am sure you were there Kevin. Prolly Spike, Dave, you. That was back when we would park om the freeway and run across. Those were good times!
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 01:33am PT
|
i have a slide scanner id love to check out all the old pics.
|
|
gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 02:26am PT
|
Its hard to look for routes while carrying heavy equipment. Exploration is finding the routes, and suitable tools are light, compact and versatile.
One is hiking and fighting brush while you try to cover ground to your destination. The emphasis is on getting thru it quickly, not blazing a trail. The less you hack the faster you go. Why build a trail before you know if there are even routes there? Depending on the type of brush, ive carried modified machetes, a cleaver, a folding brush saw, a rebar rod, a long handled hatchet and some handmade tools like a solid copper bludgeon for dry shattery vegitation on rock ground. The copper blasts thru even thick crispies like manzanita and sumac, and it doesnt hurt to hit a rock on the downswing like steel does because the copper deforms and absorbs the shock. Brush saws can get you thru the deep canopy/tree type barriers found in the deep riparian low spots like the NE side of woodson, where you may have to cut a 4" or larger branch at times. Machetes arent good on the dry, lacking the heft to shatter, and are best suited to sumac and upper north slope type terrain. Tough rooted low plants like sage and scrub oak resist casual whacking, but if you need to cut through some, a hatchet with lengthened handle for striking at the low stalk and root area is effective. But none of that except maybe the brush saw are that good for development, which is heavier and more specific work involving minimal hiking.
I used to haul all kinds of shovels, rakes, car jacks, prybars, saws, you name it, to a new area and leave it all there for months while developing an area. Id bury it or cache it in cracks or thickets. Not having to lug any of it around means chainsaws etc may be viable, but construction type noise on or near private or public land will get you shut down, and while i have daydreamed of a gasoline brush saw, polesaw, brush shears etc instead of the hand tools I was laboring with, i never needed it and liked the wild eyed release of hacking and digging till i was exhausted and too pumped to open a beer. Those days usually ended with me covered with sweat mud in the dark, in the middle of nowhere, scraped up, pumped, exhausted and happy as a clam. I always had a spare set of clothes and socks, a towel, some water and beers and a carpet, and would have a beer and clean up a little in the dark, enjoying the sounds of the wildlife in the brush around me and feeling like one of them. I tried not to make noise or use my light because it froze all activity, creating a silence that lingered for 5 or 10 minutes, then stirrings quickly ramped back up into full activity around me. It was sometimes 9:00 or even later before i left because i found such solace way out in the brush, in the hush of night with my fellow brush denizens.
I guess i digressed into a rapture, but my point was that exploration is not development, and power tools are not some modern answer. Bushwhacking with your chain saw and extension loppers is about as smart as trying to fell a tree with a machete. apples and oranges.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 11:14am PT
|
Somebody get Kevin hooked up!
For the ST I use an HP Scanjet 5370C with the slide scanning gizmo. More than good enough for posting. If you are into higher resolution for archiving something like a Canon CanoScan 8800F would be better. I am no tech weenie and this stuff is fairly easy to deal with. Besides the clock is ticking on the image quality for those really old slides so git her done songbird! I bet you have some gems once the dust is removed with a slide duster/blower!
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
|
well let me clarify i dont have a dedicated slide scanner, i have a flatbed that has the capability of scanning slides. so it will definately work. Dunno the difference between the dedicated film/slide scanner results and what i use but ive been satisfied with the results.
So no one has any knowledge about the face on the other side of the hill overlooking the gorge? someones gotta know something. haha
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 03:30pm PT
|
you're a good man kw.
|
|
InEpt
Boulder climber
SoulCal
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 09:29pm PT
|
Hey Graham the face overlooking the gorge has some potential for good lines on it and some phenomenal bouldering at the base. However the approach is to either solo up that 75ft wall of crumbling death above the water and army crawl on your stomach under manzanita for an hour or from the left use the trail we tried to make years ago only to be stopped 3/4 of the way by a gully of absolutely impenetrable poison oak. The routes on the dome weren't enticing enough to want to suffer more steroid injections for the poison oak but the rock was bullet and the bouldering was pretty stellar! There is a road that we stumbled on halfway up the mountain that was used for the transport of granite they used to quarry up there. But that too stops in the foreboding poison oak gully =(
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
|
^^ hmmm i wonder who bolted it then? A page or so back i posted a link to a trip report from some guys that went up to the base of it, said it took them hours to get there. The rock looks amazing, if a bit slick. Is the bouldering you are referring to the stuff to the left of the dome? That area has teased me for years. I think i know where you guys made the trail. I might just get my full suit up and hack through the poison oak to make the trail go through.
Side note again, I have access to the hill on the other side of the freeway, from a home off rainbow canyon road. They used to own the hillside all the way to the top where the 3 eggs are, and blasted and dozed an access road most of the way up back in the late 70's. It deteriorated about half way up but its completely doable, just needs some hacking. It goes up to the left of Vapor Lock. I'm looking for a couple motivated people whod like a shorter (if steeper) access to the top and backside of that hill without going around the conservation camp. Any takers?? haha
I'm also trying to plan a little expedition across the north side of the rocky hillside above tenaja (the national forest side, not the part with all the mcmansions). Theres SOOO much rock up there, for bouldering and for trad/sport
InEpt, you post on westcoastbouldering.com dont you? I need some motivated exploration partners. all my bouldering/climbing friends are too lazy for complicated approaches/trailbuilding
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2010 - 12:07am PT
|
Here is some fun stuff I found. I guess that is not the first ascent of Kurt on "Best of both worlds" Kevin, says here in the guide book you and spike put it up and I am sand bager by calling 10c. Guide book calls 11a
HeHe The players Kevin Worrall, Mike Hatchett, Kurt Smith, Tommy Thompson, Rick Lovelace
|
|
gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2010 - 05:00am PT
|
KW, you da man. My post was my 2 cents worth of spray only because the thread subject is dear to me, not because ive really accomplished anything. Im not only not in your league, im not on your planet. Hope i didnt come off uppity, i tend to babble.
peace, r
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2010 - 09:43am PT
|
Hey Ray---You coming to this Woodson shindig? You better say yes or expect to see the inside of a Grade VII haulbag on the way to the airport in a couple of months!!! LOL
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2010 - 10:18am PT
|
Far from it, dude! However, friends don't let friends allow their work ethic to eclipse the inner Funhog!!! And we is serious...
|
|
REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
|
Warbler, Is this north facing rock the one you can see heading south on the 15 in Temecula just before heading up the hill where the border check is?
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2010 - 10:26pm PT
|
Does anyone know if the tweaker homesteads on top of the hill are occupied? I walked near the one along the main road but wasnt sure if there were squatters or occupants and didnt feel like risking getting shot at. If no one lives there it is a fairly easy hike 80% of the way to the north slope, as well as the top of rock candy and the other t-domes.
these pics arent mine (credit to Scott Nelson), but heres a closer look at the north slope face.
|
|
Cannon
Trad climber
Wildomar, CA
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2010 - 02:46am PT
|
i had a question about access to the T-Domes. i exited rainbow valley and made a right. the road was gated with a rather ominous sign stating the road was used for various law enforcement agencies......and more or less i am not allowed on it. the question is, all the access directions i have found start with taking this road till it turns to dirt, what are the odds i am allowed to simply part at the weigh station and walk up the road....with out getting shot for it? and also what if i used the creek bed in temecula to gain access, what say you to that? i am willing to accept the fact that there will be some bush hacking.
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2010 - 04:29am PT
|
That gate's been up for a bit now. When the original guys wrote the directions there wasnt a gate at the bottom. I've parked at the end there by the weigh station and just hoofed it up the road, was gone for a few hours and had no problems, however my friend came back to his car and had a cop checking his sh#t out. Didnt get a ticket, but got a "talking to". My advice is to just leave a note on your car that says "went up the hill rock climbing". haha
Hiking from the creek is going to be WAAAAY too much work. If youre trying to reach the northern domes why not just have someone drop you off on the side of the freeway? We're heading up soon, you're welcome to come along.
|
|
REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2010 - 04:52am PT
|
Me and some friends checked out that big face back in the 80's. We were dissapointed with the rock but put up a couple bolted routes since we hiked all that way. I remember the poison oak was alive and doing very well in that canyon. I never went back.
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2010 - 05:00am PT
|
yeah it looks so promising when you look at it from the other side of the canyon haha.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2010 - 12:51pm PT
|
the chapparal guarding the base of this crag says it all. getting through that stuff can take 30 minutes per yard. you cannot conceive of how grim those thickets are until you've experienced one first-hand.
|
|
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2010 - 01:15pm PT
|
Then, if you go in spring, well, snakey.
I've sussed it from the road across the canyon.
Thanks for the pics.
|
|
gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
|
casual observation from the comfy environs of my car as i travelled to and from JT and Idylwild made me think that N. facing wall along margarita creek cyn might be the biggest hunk of rock in that entire amazing area. Its great to finally get a good look at it thanks to fellas who had the gumption to go have a gander. Impressive tho it is, the angles and features just dont create the kind of lines it seems to promise. Once again its proven biggest aint always best, and if ive thought about doing it, its prolly already been done. Hats off to those who explore the unknown for all our benefit! And thanks for sharing the pics.
ron
|
|
gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2010 - 04:11am PT
|
that stuff is beautiful
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2010 - 04:15am PT
|
Yep, pretty stuff indeed Kevin!!!
|
|
Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Currently in San Diego
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2010 - 05:06am PT
|
WOW this thread is AMAZING! I just moved out here, did a little exploring at woodson, santee and mission and finally bought the Hubbard guidebook.
This is really exciting because I figured there had to be more here than met the eye. Now if I could only climb half of this stuff...
Beautiful photos! I have a little idea of the work that goes into getting some of those shots and its greatly appreciated.
See you all at the shin-dig!
Steve
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2010 - 11:09pm PT
|
warbler, i sent you an email... =)
annnnnd..... BUMP!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
|
Bumps all over San Diego County!
|
|
guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Dec 31, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
|
Kevin... the stuff in the top pic looks like marble? Any climbs?
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
|
Dec 31, 2010 - 01:58pm PT
|
NO climbs there and it's a pile of rubble Guy! Wouldn't waste yer time on stuff like that. Besides I think Kevin is still recovering from the recon on that pile. Happy New Year!
Peace
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
|
Dec 31, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
|
Well so much for that!
Peace
|
|
Scole
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
I gotta get up there now that I live in San Diego. That's some nice looking stone!
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
Word. Ray Olsen set the standard for climbing area development in san diego county. Ray didnt just find and climb tons of classic routes, he built trail networks, stabilized landings, installed belays and cleared rest areas. Ray carved a masterpiece out of some hard, steep, brushy terrain at deerhorn valley, linking dozens of high quality routes with sidewalk-like trails, complete with shady rest areas and vantage points. The routes featured picnic area landings, comfy belays and easy access to the top, and most could be climbed with only a handful of slings and crabs.
Ray. DUDE. Nobody did it better.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Attention Allied Folks......clean up your drama at El Cajon Mtn!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Not sound condescending but I did mention "clean up", meaning fix the aftermath. Yes it is. Of course, it charred from the fire this past summer. Found it laying at the base of the corner system on the far right side (close to 'Match Book' 5.9). You can see the bent bolt above (20'ish). Additionally, the .10a face route to the right of Match Book is chopped too. I can list a few others on the left side of ECM that were chopped. Yes, the chopping occured a few years back. But locals should demonstrate unity and fix these routes and prove to the choppper (Art....hmmm!) that he is outnumbered if he chooses to slither back to ECM. I believe a good chunk of these routes were Brian's. Not sure if Brian even cares about his chopped routes.
Allied? Really?
I'm not trying to uncover an old Taco thread on this (appears it was deleted), just saw the topic of San Diego climbing and it was still fresh in my mind after finding it a little over 3 weeks ago.
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
Recovering from neurosurgery, last june 3rd.
I have 2 trick-ass pieces of titanium in my lumbar spine.
They are the latest thing - called "pivots". My freaking
Lumbar is strong as hell - no kidding. Amazing.
No fusion, no disk removal;
And the unending nerve pain of of sciatica is gone. Welded leg muscles,
"Myofascial adhesions" in (primarily) the left leg persist, but it is getting
Slowly better. I am doing my best to heal my body, my mind and spirit.
My life has been (or was) an ordeal. Climbing was the best part of the
Whole thing.
If anyone has questions about degenerative lumbar arthrits; stenosis,
Blown disks, etc. And is looking for an opinion in socal, the guy to
See is Dr Ty at socal neurosciences in Orange. Bad ass surgeon.
I wrote the review (testimonial) on their web site. Saved my life;
Severe pain paitents don't last long. Severe pain beats up the brain
Pretty bad...memory, cognitive problems.
I am undergoing some kind of major spiritual or wholistic transformation.
Probably the result of many decades of over-taxed central nervous system.
Probably a little fried, but doing better.
And...I got a great tan. ;-)
Thanks Ron for the nice post. Good luck with your Woodson thing.
Have fun out there everyone!
-Ray
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Ray- Thanks for the report.
You have had much more than your share of ailments along the way.
Great to hear that you are on the mend!
Cheers- Steve
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
Good for you Ray, glad to hear you're on the mend and doing better !!
James
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
Hope yo continue in your recovery Ray and glad you found some relief to your situation. I work in rehabilitation and want to check out your surgeon, alway good to hear of someone out there doing good procedures with good results! Keep up the hard work!
Peace
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Hey Ray, so glad to hear your surgery was a success and that youre on the upswing! You were a major force during the formative era of SD climbing, when there were still major areas to be found if you had the balls.
Good memories from BITD bro, remember Chuck and Judys party, how everybody was dancing like maniacs? Was that fun or what... If youre ever up for woodson or whatever, i still have the same number.
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
Ron, that is very kind of you. I sincerly appreciate all your hospitality
and good will. We were (and are) all so fortunate to have those hills to run
around in, and the climbing is just so good. Hope to be around;
Getting to the point where I can maybe hike...or walk without limping.
Finally. All the work you are doing at woodson sounds awesome; used
to love to go out trail building - what a work out. Keeps one fit, eh?
I hope everything is going well for you. To quote our fine friend
Eppi:
"This is life, and we're living it..."
Take care Ron. It is my sincere hope we cross paths in the not so
distant future.
Sincerely,
Ray
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Great post, great pics from Kevin, great news from Ray (sounds like things are going well;......excellent, Ray...)........this is why supertopo rocks;...it's threads like this one....fantastic. San Diego has the awesome climbing opportunities...no doubt....truly inspirational....
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
I moved to Escondido back in November and my house is at the base of this mountain with what looks like about a 80 to 100 foot wall with some fun face climbing and some decent cracks as well. I've been exploring up there when I can and hope to check out the main wall for routes in the next couple months.
Does anyone out there know if this wall has been climbed before. Except for some hoodlum graffiti doesn't look like any one else has done much up there. There appears to be some fun climbs on the boulders and main wall. It's about 2 miles north-west of lake dixon. Here's some pics.
|
|
apogee
climber
|
|
Todd G grew up in the No County/Fallbrook area- he might have beta on that crag. There's a ton of little crags like that in No County.
|
|
snake pliskin
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
I always want to check that face out every time I'm driving to meet my partner at the Park-and-Ride before trips to Idylwild or JTree.
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
Hit me up if you ever want to check the place out snake p. (or anyone else that is interested).Pretty easy approach, sort of like mission gorge.
looks like some fun stuff up there.
thanks for the tip apogee
|
|
snake pliskin
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Do you approach from the, what is it, Southeast? Right side of the main wall photo. I'm driving to Joshua Tree tomorrow, so i'll take a gander as I drive by. I could very well be getting in touch in the fall when it starts to cool off.
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
Yeah, beauty stuff to be sure! Being born in SD we did a lot of exploring...SD holds an immense wealth of potential. I wasn't surprised to see what these intrepid explorers had unearthed...Especially with their Warbler at the helm...Great, inspiring, and appealing stuff...Very well presented of course. :)
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
there is an approach that comes up just left of the wall. Easy trail, just gotta watch for them rattlers.
There sure is alot of cool little crags like that everywhere around here, as has been mentioned before, you just gotta be willing to bushwack and explore a bit.
Thanks to the past an present SD climbers who have exposed these gems too us.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
|
Mid-winter bump...
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2012 - 12:14am PT
|
Ive been exploring the back country of san diego county off and on for over 30 years and I can tell you the amount of climbable rock is staggering. At present only a fraction of it has been developed (the most accessible, of course), and the rest is waiting for those intrepid enough to go out and get it.
|
|
bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
|
+ 1 to what Ron said. So much cragging in SD county that it boggles the mind. Access is usually the issue. Most everything climbable is on someone's private property. That crag above that claud posted out off the end of North Broadway is a prime example. Climbed there in the early 80's and got run off by a shotgun toting owner/manager. Maybe things have settled down a bit since then.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
|
and the rest is waiting for those intrepid enough to go out and get it.
....the lot of it on private property or across the border.
|
|
Jonnnyyyzzz
Trad climber
San Diego,CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
|
Dirt clod I'm go out all the time up here around Escondido and the surounding areas checking out the crags and climbing what I can solo or rope solo. It's hard to find people to do the hard work to develop an area. I put in a lot of work last year at a nice crag out at Elven Forest with the blessing of the ranger at the park only to have his boss from somewhere show up one day and post no access signs at the trail head and chop all the anchor bolts above 12 of the climbs and all the bolts on the three sport routs. I was pissed but that's how it go's. I hope that place can be opened up someday its pretty sweet with easy access. I'm always up for checking new stuff out and doing some work if the climbing going to be worth it. I have two places I really want to go have a look at before it gets hot this summer. If anyone wants to join me or if you want someone check something out with you hit me up. I got a mecettie and a Hilti.
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
|
Sounds good Jonnyy, I'm down to do a little bush whacking, I'll get the machete ready. PM sent
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2012 - 11:11am PT
|
1st El Cajon Mt trip of the year, the season has begun!!
|
|
Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
|
Hi Claud. This is a trip into my distant past. Your third pic, showing the trough up thru the red rock, I think is the start of an ancient route of mine, maybe mid 60s, that I did with Jerry Hooper.
Here's a tidbit from that climb. I had climbed up to the top of the trough, 5.8, and found a good stance, maybe 2 inches by 10 inches and was drilling. I almost had the hole completed when the good stance came off completely, leaving me hanging from the drill holder. Amazingly, the drill didn't break. I found some smaller holds and finished the bolt. I remember a 5.8 section immediately above and some more 5.8 with nested pins for protection. Four pitches altogether.
Back then we were able to drive up the road off to the east. It was a 20 minute brush free walk to the rock.
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
|
Man, It would be nice to have that type of access still. That hike is a bitch. Thanks for the background story. Didn't know people were climbing there back in the 60s. Lots of rock up here in SD that has not been touched since the 60s/70s it seams. Brian S. and Chris H. have done a lot of killer work in the ECM area and more routes have opened up on the rocks to the south of the main wall that is shown in the 2nd pic. That would be cool if there were any old ECM pics around.
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2013 - 10:14am PT
|
bvb wrote:
in december, january, february, and march, winter storms will blow through san diego with lots of cool temps and rain, then the storm will clear out, the sun will be brilliant in a scrubbed sky, sometimes you get an offshore santa ana thrown in for good measure, and the grass and mustard just pops. it's gorgeous and the granite can feel like flypaper. when the conditions are just right in san diego, as they are so often during the winter, nothing else compares. it's simply the best.
Yup. Well said.
|
|
bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
|
One of those cold, crisp, after-a-storm afternoons in San Diego of which you speak...
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
|
+1 on the BVB taste.
Quite a stash of really nice writing by Ray Olson in this thread: nostalgic and clear as a bell!
The Ron Amick passage is sweet too.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
|
Today is one of those perfect days. Conditions do not ever get better than this. It's absoltely primo.
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2014 - 03:14pm PT
|
Great time at Corte Madera this weekend. Thanks to all who have made the spot such a great place to climb, great setting, clean routes and awesome rock!!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 - 04:29pm PT
|
Bump for the Sweetness...
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
|
Great time at Lowenbrau this weekend. Great weather and friends.
Endless bouldering on great rock.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
bump for san diego climbing
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
bump for chaparral tunneling!
|
|
mcolombo
Trad climber
Heidelberg, Germany
|
|
This thread is really making me miss home :-(
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
^^^ Ich auch!
|
|
zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
|
|
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
You gotta get on your hands and knees and pray, which will show you the proper tunneling position. A good belly slide crux also improves the appreciation of the fruits of the labor.
I still remember a fine day about 20-25 years ago, where yo y mis amigos set out to find a climbing destination, spent all day alternating between the open blistering sun and tunneling on our hands and knees under the low chaparral canopy, and I think we got to the place at sunset. Too beat to climb, and more concerned about getting back, but it was still an awesome day.
|
|
Larry Nelson
Social climber
|
|
Tunneling...LMAO.
I always thought the snakes were worse. Got into a snake pit once climbing up on Lawson Peak. Lucky I got out without a bite. My buddy was 30 feet over trying to find a better way and his blood curdling scream told me he found snakes as well. San Diego East County must be the rattlesnake capital of America.
|
|
MP
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
Bump for San Diego climbing/bushwacking.
Miss everything but the poison oak and rattlesnakes.
|
|
F10
Trad climber
Bishop
|
|
I remember a time climbing at Crest and going down the hill toward the golf course to check out some lower rocks. We were walking on top of the brush and were about 4-5 ft above the ground. Next thing we hear is a rattler right under neath us. We picked up speed and hoped the brush wouldn't give way and have us wrestling with a rattlesnake. Definitely lots of rattlesnakes in SD county.
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2015 - 09:32am PT
|
Anyone have any info on the length of the hike into Valley of the Moon if you do not have 4 wheel drive? Thinking about cruising out there tomorrow but thought I heard the hike is like 3 miles without the 4 wheel drive. Info anyone?
|
|
Splater
climber
Grey Matter
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2015 - 10:01am PT
|
Most cars can go the first 1/2 mile to an overlook parking spot just before the concrete section.
Some ground clearance will get you another 1/2 mile to the saddle.
After that the road gets worse, but easy to walk.
It's about 1.3 miles to the camping areas, where there's some climbing. And then another mile to the main climbing.
But also, every year the road gets worse and they don't always even fix the first mile to get to the antennas.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2015 - 10:02am PT
|
fribit fribit ribbitt
!!! frog
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2015 - 10:26am PT
|
Awesome, thanks for the info Splater. Will have to check weather I guess and prepare for a long hike if we go.
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
|
Ramona Wall this last weekend, beautiful climbing weather.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
El Cajon Mtn, the other big crag, scene of many new sport routes, and nationally known bolting controversy BUMP this is why it is not the major winter hangCorte Madera, one of Eagle Peak's two sister crags, about five hundred feet high,
at an elevation of over 4,000 ft.
Snow capped Mt Cuyamaca in the background.
About fifty years of climbing history here, and lots of new sport routes on excellent rock.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2016 - 08:34am PT
|
Ray Olson memorial bump...
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2016 - 01:36pm PT
|
One of the nicer aspects of Supertopo is being able to peruse the writings of some of our fallen. Ray will live on in these threads.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2016 - 03:45pm PT
|
I didn't know Ray well enough to know his creative/artistic side but you can't help but see it in his posts on this thread. I mean, look at all of his posts. There is something pleasing to the eye about the way he frames his paragraphs. It looks like poetry. The fact that this is so obvious to an artistic philistine like me says something about Ray.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2016 - 05:18pm PT
|
Never climbed in San D., but this is a great thread!!
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2016 - 07:23pm PT
|
good stuff as always Warbler.
I find it interesting that the 3 big SD crags, ECM, EP, and CM all are roughly the same diamond on its side shape, tapering to either side, from about 500 ft high in the center, even as they lie around ten miles apart from each other. All south facing.
I can add something here I think, to help your understanding of the geology of the San Diego Backcountry. I am pulling this out of the deep recesses of my mind (read out of my ass), so seek confirmation. First of all these 3 crags all have a very similar geologic history and are all within the Western Peninsular Ranges. The Eastern half has a very different intrusion history. But also in the Paleocene Period, this mountain was eroded flat by large river systems. This erosion surface was then uplifted and tilted seaward, with further East being higher elevation. You must have noticed that at certain high points the world looks amazingly flat looking out towards the distance. THIS is the relict erosion surface left over from the paleocene. Because the crags are so close to one another they would tend to have similar elevations being made of erosion resistant material.
Hopefully Greg Cameron can call bullshit on this if it is wrong. I think I remember rightly tho.
Chris
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
One of the highlights of my year was getting out with Kevin on Crag X. Good times, great cliff!
Rick
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
Incredible day at EP today. Tried to do Southwest Face but the falcons kicked us off after pitch 2, so we moved on to the classic Cruise Line. That last pitch is amazing! Nice temps as well.
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
So much to do there and such great quality/variety as well. So awesome! Can't wait for more.
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2017 - 08:09pm PT
|
Another incredible day at EP. Finally got on Babyface..insane route. The second pitch is an endless wall of techy crimps on amazing stone!!
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2017 - 10:31pm PT
|
I know where you're at in that photo now. I went left into that crack and got a good fingerlock..it felt nice after all that crimping! :-)
The 3rd pitch is super rad too.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2017 - 05:37pm PT
|
Post from the OP.
Ray Olson
Nov 16, 2009 - 11:43am PT
Deerhorn Valley - realm of the party gods.
How many times did we get sh#t faced drunk
and stoned out of our minds up there?
It went on for years. Before the climbs during the climbs after the climbs and
quite often too much beer camping out at night. I am sure the birds or the lizards
or whatever found my "burrito barf" in the bushes a rare treat. Holy sh*t.
If you took all the weed we burned up there from '75 to '85 you would probably
be looking at about three huge bails sitting in front of you.
This had an inverse effect that "stimulated" the climbing. When we
got too fukked up to climb, we grabbed our machetes, headed off into the
thicket, went exploring and found cool new places to do more bong loads
and cool new climbs, all over the place.
Once we were so trashed driving back to IB, I thought my truck was stalling out
for real - sh*t! Right in traffic about to hook a left up a freeway onramp. In a
panic I said aloud "there's something wrong". Dave glanced over, knowing smile,
message recieved, I pushed down on the gas pedal, the truck was fine.
True story.
Homegrown "grass", mexi, lumbo, thai stick, infinite variations of homegrown
green bud, anything we could get our hands on. And, the devastating uber-
lord of all, Humbolt; there was no fukking question about that. Dave had a
tree house and grew some green. He also had a pit in his backyard covered
with window panes for a hot house. Dave's weed was way better than mexi;
sometimes we'd break open an LB and find an old tennis shoe or other
"artifact" in it, not to mention all the stems.
We'd read how grit climbers often belayed at each available good spot, that
was good news, we could stop, hang out, and pull more tubes. The FA of the
Fang is a classic example. We needed to cut away some brush in order to have
a neat new spot to hang and rip some loads. Dave led the thing wearing a red
Wildy Klettersac (donini, now you know). Inside was his "unit", weed, and water
carried in a glass mason jar - how the hell did he do that? It never broke! At
the belay between the pinnacle and the main block, we consumed more
marijuana, prepping for the challenge of smooth white granite soaring above:
maybe 30' of actual climbing. :-)
Oh, we adapted to the "environment" alright. Strong steady onshores flowing
inland provided us with what can best be described as "god's own air
conditioning". Hard to light a match - Bics hadn't come on the scene yet.
So, having read Basic and Advanced Rockcraft by Royal Robbins, we used
our hard-wired "adapability" skills once again and developed our own
techniques to suit the specific demands of the situation. Magifying glasses
became a standard part of our kit and, the "Magnafry" was born - let the
wind blow, we lit our bongs with the Sun! Good god.
I didn't know Ray Olson but I felt the need to upstream this.
|
|
F10
Trad climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2017 - 08:37pm PT
|
Thanks for sharing
RIP Ray
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2017 - 04:57pm PT
|
Contractor, there is no such thing a Thai Stick lol, a BS made up sales gimmick here in good ole, USA. Ahh, twenty-one years going to Thailand, the Thai folks have never heard of it in their country.I have smoked plenty in Thailand, full on schwag. Hack hack!!
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2017 - 05:18pm PT
|
Jeff, I convinced myself many times that it was laced, of course we were weaning off shitty Mexi or Columbian Gold.
But that skunk, oh Lord- we had to stop rolling bats or die!
I grew up surfing in South San Diego and have spent some time bouldering, trail making and such, around the hills that Roy describes in such classic fashion.
Like I said, I never knew Roy, but out of respect- this thread should be the "go-to" for all San Diego rock other than Woodson- So Cal Obscura for other places.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2017 - 07:48pm PT
|
"Tied Stick man. Cuz you know, it's tied on a stick" Cheech and Chong
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
Some photos from our adventure a few weekends ago to Boulder Island. What we thought was gonna be the most unique and coolest new place to climb turned out to be a nightmare infested with Poodle Dog Bush. Every one of us got it, and it landed a few of us in the hospital. Beware..
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
Contractor, there is no such thing a Thai Stick lol, a BS made up sales gimmick here in good ole, USA.
Actually, there was. It was opiated or hash-oiled thai buds concentrically tied with fine bamboo thread onto a short, thin bamboo skewer and tightly rolled into a compact paper cylinder slightly shorter than a roll of pennies (easily palmed). Was not generally available in the US, but was in Thailand, Singapore, the Philippines and other SE Asian venues if you knew where to look. But that was before Singapore became the society it is today, before Ferdinand Marcos took over the drug trade in the Philippines, before all the elevated strife on the Burma / Thai border, and before the Indonesians and Malays became so draconian on drugs. Overall it became less and less prevalent in the years following the end of the Vietnam War so I'm not surprised it's now not commonly known in Thailand.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Like french toast, English muffins, French fries it is (was?) real. If not geographically correctly named. As described a couple of places above, available in Wyoming and California in the mid seventies / eighties, lost track after that.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
Poodle Dog Bush- Many horror movies start with a group of excited adventures heading off to a mysterious Island. That ominous fog should has given it away.
I saw the video- very classic adventure guys, nice rocks and horrible consequences-LOL!
I was one hill away, trashing around that weekend and never saw a Poodle Dog Bush.
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
Yep, we should've taken the hint! Haha. It was a pretty cool experience, sucks it has to be ruined by that plant. We hadn't even heard of it before, so we didn't see it, but we smelled it! Were you with Hubbard? Got any more photos from where you guys were?
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
With Spiewak- yes, will share privately. Have you gotten on Grub Crack?
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
Rad. My email is adenmrpants@gmail.com if that works. And no I haven't, I've wanted to check it out. Only been to south Woodson once!
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
Been there- it sucks!
I'm thinking the Drainage below Morena Dam. The South and North slopes :)
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
It sucks?? I've been wanting to check it out, I thought it was all private. There's that area near there called Gnarnia, but some guys were shot at multiple times a few years back and stopped going.
I was looking at those boulders/cliff near Morena dam on google earth. Looks good.
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
Yeah, someone on the internet tells you it sucks, it must be true, why would they deflect people's interest in a new climbing area? :-)
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
Off-white is all right!
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
Hahaha true true..
How about anything along the Mother Grundy truck trail? So much rock out there.
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
What's that Jebuz, a new product that makes your baby's bum smell like a good red sauce?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Looks sweet...can you fly to the area?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Kevin...I'll be hanging out with Chappy in the Valley from 5/8 to 5/12....you're next. Thanks for the invite.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
Thanks Warbler, I've been running into San Diego Granite that has pockets and veins of black, brown and white metamorphic rock. Some is highly featured and similar to San Juacinto rock.
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
Few photos of the routes going up!
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
Ha! Kinda looks like it..
A lot of the stuff there climbs like limestone and is featured like it. My route has two 2-finger pockets on it, and my dad's has that mono. Crazy cool.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
From the pictures, it looks like there are thin layers of Flow Stone on those lines.
There's a crag in San Diego that has overhanging granite roof blocks that are laminated together with a thin layer of "Cave Bacon".
Reference: There are two common forms of flowstones, tufa and travertine. Tufa is usually formed via the precipitation of calcium carbonate, and is spongy or porous in nature. Travertine is a calcium carbonate deposit often formed in creeks or rivers; its nature is laminated, and it includes such structures as stalagmites and stalactites.
The deposits may grade into thin sheets called "draperies" or "curtains" where they descend from overhanging portions of the wall. Some draperies are translucent, and some have brown and beige layers that look much like bacon (often termed "cave bacon").
Though flowstones are among the largest of speleothems, they can still be damaged by a single touch. The oil from human fingers causes the flowing water to avoid the area, which then dries out. Flowstones are also good identifiers of periods of past droughts, since they need some form of water to develop; the lack of that water for long periods of time can leave traces in the rock record via the absence or presence of flowstones, and their detailed structure.[2
PS- I've already reserved the route name, "Cavin Bacon".
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
Good one! I'm sure "Footloose" is taken and that movie brings back bad memories anyways.
Speaking of climbing over black and brown rock...I'm sure a Trump reference could fit nicely.
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
|
May 14, 2017 - 11:29am PT
|
One last photo dump of our routes. Both are finished and have been climbed! Such an amazing process. My dad just sent his yesterday, 'FLN' (5.12b). An instant SD classic. Sadly we didn't get any photos of him on the FA, but here's some of Jed and me. One more photo of my route as well. :-)
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
May 14, 2017 - 06:53pm PT
|
Dad- 5.12? Wow...looks great!!
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
|
May 15, 2017 - 06:57am PT
|
Dude, my dad is a crusher! He put up lots of 5.13's BITD..
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2017 - 08:44am PT
|
Anyone done much climbing out around Cuyamaca? Found lots of rock and some cool stuff a few weekends ago.
|
|
adenparker
climber
|
|
Looked that up on GE..I see lots of rock! My photos were from trails around the green valley campgrounds.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Why does anyone live in LA when they can get better weather, better beaches, better fish tacos and MUCH better climbing in SD.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
Looks nice Aden, looking forward to checking it out this fall!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
Warbler, one of these days I may well move back to San Diego. One of the first things I'm gonna do is look you up!
|
|
adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2017 - 07:32am PT
|
Finding old treasures on an old route..so darn cool.
Excellent climbing as well!
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2017 - 02:01pm PT
|
Looks great!!!
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2017 - 11:06am PT
|
Classy San Diego
|
|
Friend
climber
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2017 - 12:15pm PT
|
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2017 - 07:34pm PT
|
Pardon my brevity but...WHERE!
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2017 - 08:28pm PT
|
It's amazing how much is still out there. It's looks nice!
|
|
zBrown
Ice climber
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2017 - 06:43pm PT
|
Hope nobody was surfing IB that day.
The Department of Environmental Health lifted a water contact closure for the Imperial Beach shoreline on Sunday.
An influx of rain-driven sewage from Baja California prompted authorities Friday to extend an existing ocean-contamination advisory at Tijuana Slough National Wildlife Refuge to include the entirety of the Imperial Beach coastline.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
|
Oh Z, I can't tell you how bad it is! Please, San Diegan's and Baja lovers- check out the Bi National Environmental group "Wild Coast". They do great things.
|
|
Friend
climber
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2017 - 07:18pm PT
|
I love the shot of that rotten old pin Aden.
KW, it's hard to get a bead on the steepness with the angle of the ropes in that second shot? Definitely looks like some primo stone though. Sweet photos.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2017 - 06:49am PT
|
First trip out to McCain Valley.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2017 - 10:37am PT
|
There's way too much...dog's chasing their tails and loving it!
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2017 - 12:09pm PT
|
There seems to be some pockets of nice rock on the north side of the 8, between Kitchen Creek Road and Viejas Mountain. Have you ventured around there much?
|
|
adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 11:56am PT
|
Some excellent stuff
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
|
Excellent!!!
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 12:09pm PT
|
Pretty dang cool Aden!
It's funny, but I believe I know where both Warbler's spots are 'cause I mapped geology in those areas. The one with occasional nude people walking about for sure...a cool winter spot.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 12:23pm PT
|
Thanks for the work guys!
Ray Olson-Why the obvious route finding challenges, and the inherent skills demanded by this type of terrain have not been widely accepted - I have no idea.
Route finding skills, and dealing with the environment on its
own terms (you will have no choice) are universally upheld
in our sport, and San Diego rock climbing falls right in line
with these interests.
So, if you think that the brush is just too "icky" for you,
or feel it is better to let others develop and maintain the
access paths, then please, go to Joshua Tree.
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 12:34pm PT
|
Contractor. That place used to be known as the Wisteria Candy Cottage, before the original huge wisteria died that is. And nearby was a pretty good Basque restaurant.
Finding the path of lest resistance through chaparral is a skill honed through experience.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 04:37pm PT
|
KW-We just don't have a campground in the middle of it where you can see and be seen. Oh no...home in time for Naked and Afraid with the wifey and sleeping in my own bed.
|
|
Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 - 05:25pm PT
|
Warbler...I sure wish I'd known you when I was living in Poway. Though, I'm not sure you were around San Diego through the 70s and mid-80s. I imagine you were mostly in the Valley around that time.
|
|
adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2017 - 07:13am PT
|
Crossing my fingers that something comes out of it, thank you for your efforts! Access is tough here in SD..
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
I'll be in San Diego next week (Tue & Wed) for a workshop, but I doubt I'll have much time to get out and do stuff, maybe get to the gym one night (be there Mon Tu Wed nights)...
any recommendations?
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
The pictures above, posted by way run-out are part of a fun solo crack circuit with a 10 minute approach and 35 minutes from downtown.
Forgot to mention, great rock quality!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
yes, but the workshop sessions run until after sunset... which makes outdoors climbing problematic, even if it is preferable
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
Got it, Mesa Rim (Mission Valley) is a nice new gym and is close to downtown.
|
|
adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2017 - 07:16am PT
|
Back at Eagle Peak! We climbed ‘Soul Terrain’, awesome route. Couldn’t have asked for better weather.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2017 - 11:45am PT
|
sweet pics thank you!
glad to see fROg"s Thread, at the top of the heap
|
|
goboy
Trad climber
san diego
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2017 - 09:47am PT
|
Any pictures out there of "Scylla and Charybdis"?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2017 - 12:49pm PT
|
Is it just me, or does Prime Rib remind you of The Naked Edge?
(the photo, I haven't been on either)
|
|
adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 08:47am PT
|
Photo dump of some recent rocks
|
|
adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
It’s a great route! I think it’s gotten some more traffic recently..it’s definitely deserving of it.
|
|
sd-nick
climber
San Diego
|
|
I remember thinking the start looked kinda sketch on Shining slab? Maybe really overgrown last season? Stellar slab is a good route too. Hey any history of bee problems out there? Had some buddies get in an epic involving a swarm that landed between them on the 3rd pitch of The Direct Route.
Edit: Im a slow typer
|
|
sd-nick
climber
San Diego
|
|
Oops checked my notes had routes reversed. We did Shining slab. I wrote scary start but dont remember much...
|
|
adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
Yeah, the start was definitely a bit spooky. There was a bit of debate on whether or not we do the route because of it. I think it’d definitely get more traffic if it was less sketchy.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2018 - 08:26pm PT
|
Glory bowl somewhere in San Diego
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2018 - 07:30am PT
|
Those boulders look enticing but are generally grainy and loose from my experience. A buddy went in there recently and Ive checked them out myself. That line of rock extends to the base of Hotsprings Mountain.
If you've continued past there and turned right or East on the Pines to Palms Highway, you've seen an amazing expanse of rock up on the mountainside above Ribbonwood.
That has amazing rock quality but the crags are only 30 to 40 feet and the access is brutal. Some of the boulders up there are 4 star.
|
|
adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2018 - 09:46pm PT
|
San Diego continues to produce the goods
|
|
goboy
Trad climber
san diego
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2018 - 10:33am PT
|
Half cat at the mountaineer's wall, El Cajon Mountain. Wildest bit of trad climbing i've done!
https://vimeo.com/250178917
|
|
Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2018 - 11:23am PT
|
You guys ever been up to Cahuilla Mountain?
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2018 - 11:26am PT
|
Drove past that mountain on the way to Idylwild, looks like some fun stuff but thought it was on Indian Reservation land
|
|
Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2018 - 12:41am PT
|
|
|
Jed Andersen
Sport climber
Descanso
|
|
|
May 31, 2018 - 05:00pm PT
|
Cuyamaca Bouldering is a hoot. Good stuff to be found by Green VF. Believe that.
|
|
adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
Get out to Lake Ramona, people! Seriously, these climbs deserve some traffic.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 307 of total 307 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!