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Oregon Boy
Trad climber
OR
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 25, 2005 - 09:57pm PT
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Any one know what the "ominous corner" to the right of Braille Book is rated? Its a pretty henious OW and I think its called Book Of Job.
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Sep 25, 2005 - 11:11pm PT
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Hey OR, I remember this a good route with good protection. Varied technique, but not so hard. Well protected with regular nuts. I don't know too much about using yams for protection--is that that canned or fresh?
I read Clint's trip report and didn't see any thing to dispute that assessment.
As a note, I never understood why Rick Sylvester didn't do it free. The name "Book of Job" is classic Rick.
I think that Jim Donini and Rik Rieder probably did the second ascent.
It is not a classic like the Braile Book, but it is not still a good route.
Best climbing, Roger
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James
Social climber
The Climber's Subconcious
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Sep 25, 2005 - 11:15pm PT
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Oregon Boy-
Note who has actually climbed the route.
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Sep 25, 2005 - 11:36pm PT
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Hey James, that is an interesting question. Who has climbed the route? In 1971 a lot of Valley regulars climbed it--it was part of the latest and greatest.
I liked it well enough.
I do remember that half way up the crux pitch, I had to remind myself that it wasn't a cake walk and I had to pay attention.
Some of the routes in Clint's list must be after my time--I don't recongize them. The only ones I remember are Braile Book, the Sequel, Book of Job, and Blind's Man Bluff.
Roger
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 26, 2005 - 03:21am PT
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My long-time climbing partner Joel went back and did it a second time! His short trip report and updated topo are on his website:
http://www.lalimes.com/joel/2005.html#ref08
Have fun,
Clint
P.S. I'm not sure if I "own" the area until I do the Dictionary! :-)
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nate
Trad climber
virginia
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Sep 26, 2005 - 08:58am PT
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I climbed it last october, my second day in the valley. Second pitch is very good 3-4" crack. Don't miss the traverseleft up high as I did and got some extra crux duty -- ended right at one of the BB anchors tough. Cool old school route great summit and way more hardcore than bb.
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leonardo
climber
davis, CA; Sardinia, IT
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Aug 17, 2011 - 08:12pm PT
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Hi
I was trying to find info about the Book of Job...
( for some mysterious reasons, the link above sends me to a culinary web site). I know climbing without any beta would be a sign of better style... but I wouldn't' mind to bring with me some sort of topo...
thanks
Leonardo
Side note: if you try to use Supertopo's search engine and type "book of Job", the majority of suggested links are about religion...
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Aug 18, 2011 - 07:48am PT
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i climbed book of job with some kid i met on the greyhound trying to get back to the valley a few years ago.
i think we got off route up high and that was harder than anything on route. if i recall correctly the 10.c pitch was similar to the first 10.c on mental block, but maybe easier. i also remember a fun squeeze that the kid cursed me for putting gear in the back of. he had also wondered why it had taken me so long until he got in there.
i love climbing anything up on higher cathedral. it's so cool up there.
not much beta, but due to james' post i thought i should speak up for the average folks who have been up there. its doable.
j
and that route is in the guidebook, not exactly an obscurity...
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OR
Trad climber
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Aug 18, 2011 - 09:05am PT
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I Did Book of Job with Mr Way years ago..early 90's. I thought the route was fantastic. Easy pro and some cool pitches. A beautiful right facing corner that looked like choss from the ground but was actually super clean funky looking granite. It also had a really cool bombay slot/chimney thing that you can step outside of earlier than you think that is airy and exposed..fantastic. It was longer than we thought and finished in the dark. Mr Way went bonkers trying to find the descent trail cuz of his phobia of poisen oak..funny story i think I posted here years ago..he ended up spending the night up there. Do the route, have fun. Phil O'Rourke
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leonardo
climber
davis, CA; Sardinia, IT
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Aug 18, 2011 - 11:31am PT
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Thank you all for the info
The "wayback machine" is really cool...
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