Anyone climbed Mary's Tears lately?

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic

tadhunt

Trad climber

Sunnyvale, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 19, 2009 - 08:16pm PT

I'm planning to do Mary's Tears to NEBoHC next week.

Anyone done it lately?

Specifically, I'm wondering about the 5.11a 3rd pitch which Reid's guide calls "5.10a seasonally wet" on one section and "dirt" on another. Is is still wet and dirty? Have the years of traffic since then cleaned out the dirt? Is the 5.11a variation the better way to go on that pitch?

Here's a link to the topo for reference:

http://books.google.com/books?id=DZrIW7zuPC4C&pg=PA274

Thanks!
-Tad

[edited to shorten url]

Captain...or Skully

Social climber

North of the Owyhees

Jun 20, 2009 - 12:19am PT

Bump.

JakeW

Big Wall climber

Jun 20, 2009 - 10:08am PT

I've never done Mary's Tears, but it doesn't seem like anyone else is offering up info yet. The hearsay is that Lucho and Rob cleaned it up quite a bit while doing Gemini...and some friends of mine climbed it about a month ago, so I'm sure its good to go.

hoipolloi

climber

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi

Jun 20, 2009 - 12:55pm PT

report back after you do it. I have wanted to do that route for quite a while but its a tough one to find info on. Looks awesome though.

lucho

Gym climber

San Franpsycho

Jun 20, 2009 - 01:18pm PT

The 3rd pitch should be fine. There may be a grassy section but thats just the nature of the pitch. The best climbing on the route I feel. Also the start pitches are kinda hard we always took the right most "5.8" variation.

tadhunt

Trad climber

Sunnyvale, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2009 - 08:11pm PT

Great guys, thanks for the info. If all works out with my partner, I should be able to report back late next week about the state of the climb.

-Tad

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Jun 20, 2009 - 08:17pm PT

I don't remember the third being dirty.

The first and fourth hard pitches can be "bypassed" by following a direct line.
(While heading for the Crucifix I felt no need to detour left on pitch 1 and right on pitch 4 for harder climbing)

Both those easier pitches (1&4) are a little gravelly.

This is of course as of 1983 & 1987.

Second and third pitch:

dickcilley

Social climber

A cova Dos Nenos

Jun 20, 2009 - 09:31pm PT

Way to dribble out the photos Roy.What else you hiding from us?Why did I think Marys tears was slab?

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Jun 20, 2009 - 10:33pm PT

Dick!!!
What's Happen'n ?

I am hiding my PP.
But, if you missed it, Cybbie apparently (I missed it) posted a picture of "E's" junk recently (then she took it down).
Just ask Russ: no kidding.