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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 9, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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Looking for something new and warm to climb in Yosemite? 15 min approach
We climbed Flying in the Mountains at Parkline yesterday, super good! Every pitch after the first is excellent. A great route for cooler days, shorts and t-shirts yesterday.
I think Sean Jones put it up around 2006. It has seen very few ascents but is very worth doing. Like most routes that see few ascents, expect some loose rock and a little veg but not bad at all. This route deserves more attention
P1- 5.9 left facing corner, a bit loose and was the only wet pitch yesterday (all gear)
P2- 5.10b finger crack, Nice! (1 bolt and gear)
P3- 11- cool roof move to techy corner, the money pitch (mostly bolts)
P4- 11- thin finger crack, one hard move (crux for me) short pitch (much easier with a longer reach) (1 bolt and gear)
P5- past two bolts to fun crack (2bolts and gear)
P6-10+ very nice face climbing, fun positive edges (bolts only)
P7-easy 5th to get to the top of Homeworld (no pro)
All pitches have bolted anchors with chains
Rap the route with 2 ropes or rap Homeworld with 1 60m
pro: 00BDC3 to #3Camalot(extra finger size), stoppers I used #7-11HB w/extra 7,9,10
The route starts just right of a giant flake about 200' right of the cockshead
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 11, 2009 - 03:31am PT
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Jeff,
Thanks for sharing. I was wondering exactly where the route went, and your description is very nice!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2009 - 09:44am PT
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Thanks Clint,
I had a fun day on that climb, thought others might too.
Jeff
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
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Yep Walter,
Just got the call the other day,"back to work bioch". Still a few weeks to frack off though. Just finished pitch 4 of a new route down there, one more to push it to the top.
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| Messages 1 - 4 of total 4 in this topic |
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