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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 17, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
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While LVC is not quite in the same shape this year, here's a photo essay on California's most consistent ice venue.
Brian Biega, Hobnail Boots, Pitch 3, M5 WI4
Brian Biega, Hobnail Boots, Pitch 3, M5 WI4
Brian Biega, Hobnail Boots, Pitch 4, M5 WI4
clients, Hobnail Boots, Pitch 3, M5 WI4
Mark O'Brien, P2, Photo Shop, WI4
Frank Sainburg, Fisher King, P2, WI3 M3
Frank Sainburg, Fisher King, P2, WI3 M3
climbers, Tricouni Nails, P4, WI4
Keith Bortle, Tricouni Nails, P4, WI4
Eric Erikson, Heel/Toe, P1, WI5 M5
Eric Erikson, Heel/Toe, P1, WI5 M5
Eric Erikson, Heel/Toe, P1, WI5 M5
Doug Nidever, Heel Toe, P3, WI5, M5
Scott Brown, The Death of Right and Wrong, M6 WI5
Doug Nidever, White Lightning, P2, WI5
Mortimer, Almost Died Again, P1, WI7
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Feb 17, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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Cool! Looks a little skimpy this year, compared to others...
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
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Fattrad,
I couldn't take $ from a guy who raises his children to be evil :)
Flanders
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perswig
climber
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Feb 17, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
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What's with the straw? Bedding for the ubiquitous climber's sheep? :)
Thanks for the pics; had never seen the mixed routes before.
Dale
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 17, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
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was up the canyon last week (skiing) saw some folk at the ice falls looks like it's got something to climb this season. sorry forgot the camera
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Feb 17, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
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Hi Doug - hope you are having a good season !
-Rob Yang
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Feb 17, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
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looks like a nice outing!
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 08:04pm PT
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hey Walleye - never saw that you got saved on the Jesus thread. Don't miss the boat mate.
Rob - haven't seen you for awhile. Heard you had some recovery time last year? Me? it's been a challenging year, but getting up into LVC, a little work, a little training.
Flanders, Zippo's Frozen Booger, P1, WI4
The start has been alittle thin this season, so I thought I'd try to help it out a bit.
I found this really does help, as it glues the 1/4" smears to the wall better.
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Feb 17, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
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I was in the canyon a few weeks ago. Will get pics up soon!
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Feb 17, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
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Doug, that is totally route enhancement. You are spending eternity in ethical purgatory :).
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Nohea
Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
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Feb 17, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
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Your looking good Doug! Thanks for sharing, I'm stuck in the sand and surf this winter but making the best of the tough conditions.
Aloha,
wil
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Feb 18, 2009 - 10:36am PT
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hahaha ! I'm going to try that next time Doug :D ooh, new cobras ..
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TYeary
climber
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Feb 18, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Thanks Doug. Nice photo essay. Eric just never slowes down. Talked with him in the shop the other day. He's just a go-boy from hell. Wish I had his energy.
Ice doesn't look too bad this year.
Tony
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 18, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
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Doug,
I remember Pete telling me about a climb that required removal of a boot for a heel hook or some other nonsense, is that Heel to Toe?
Kevin Mokracek
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Feb 18, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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Nice shots! Where is "The Death of Right and Wrong," and what year was that photo taken? I've climbed all the other routes you photographed in one condition or another, but I can't say I've even seen that one.
Brian
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 18, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
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LOL spray bottle, classic!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 18, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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That's a very cool photo spread Mr. Nidever!
Always great to recognize the archetypal "E" body language as well.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
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Batrock,
You are correct about Heel/Toe: the last pitch goes up an ice pillar then hand traverses a good crack on an overhanging wall and finishes with a heel hook. This is normally done with boots and crampons on, although as the years go by it's harder to get the leg up there (maybe more crunches)
Brian,
The Death of Right and Wrong is between Heel/Toe and the Chouinard Falls. I've only seen it there once in 36 yrs of LVC.
Trevor Hobbs, unnamed, P3, WI4 M5
Trevor Hobbs, unnamed, P4, WI4 M5
Trevor Hobbs, unnamed, P4, WI4 M5
Trevor Hobbs, unnamed, P4, WI4 M5
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 18, 2009 - 10:10pm PT
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hey there all great pics.... i will never get over that feeling that once you latch into the stuff (the ice) that it will crack and split and on no!....
you guys are very brave with that ice...
whewwwwwwww....
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Feb 18, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
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Go Trevor go :D
You guys rock !!
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