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Access Funder
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 26, 2008 - 04:32pm PT
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Standing 365 feet over Telluride's Box Canyon, Bridal Veil Falls is Colorado's tallest free falling waterfall, and some would argue, one of the most classic and difficult ice climbs in the country. And it has been closed to climbing for the better part of a few decades, with the exception of a few brief openings.
Following extensive negotiations, ice climbers will once again be able to legally climb the classic Bridal Veil Falls, beginning December 5th of this year. This agreement was reached through negotiations between The Trust for Public Land and the Idarado Mining Company, with support and advocacy from Colorado's San Miguel County, the Telluride Mountain Club and the Access Fund. It awards a revocable public access license that grants climbers access to this world-class ice climb.
The opening of the key access point to Bridal Veil Falls was managed by The Trust for Public Land, a non-profit land conservation organization dedicated to helping communities all around the country save special places for everyone to enjoy. Their work has made a real difference around Telluride, Ouray and Silverton, where they have protected over 10,000 acres for the public, including other outstanding climbing resources such as Wilson Peak and the Ouray Ice Park.
A climber's general information meeting will be held on Wednesday, Dec. 17 at 5:30 p.m. in the county meeting room, Miramonte Building, 333 West Colorado Ave (2nd floor) Telluride, CO. All interested climbers are invited to attend.
The re-opening of Bridal Veil Falls is a big win for the climbing community, but we need your help to ensure its continued access. This area contains a set of innate hazards, which climbers must be aware of to ensure their own safety and mitigate potential access issues.
This new public access license is revocable and is contingent on climber's awareness and compliance with a number of rules. Climbers must sign in at a kiosk and avoid the Powerhouse area at the top of the falls; all descents must be via rappel. A complete list of rules and topo can be found at www.sanjuaniceclimbs.com.
Compliance with these rules is essential to maintain climbing privileges. Please treat this area and its adjacent private land with respect, and help educate others on its proper use. Our combined efforts can help keep this landmark climb open for years to come.
Many thanks to folks at The Trust for Public Land, Idarado Mining Company, San Miguel County, Telluride Mountain Club and many local climbers for coming together to reclaim this Colorado classic. For more information, contact Access Fund Regional Coordinator Steve Johnson at steve@8750law.com.
See also:
Trust for Public Land
Scott Dissel
(303) 837-1414
scott.dissel@tpl.org
Telluride Mountain Club
Tor Anderson
970-708-0860
telluridemountainclub@gmail.com
San Miguel County
Linda Luther-Broderick
(970) 369-5469
lindal@sanmiguelcounty.org
Colorado Avalanche Information Center
(970) 387-5712
http://www.avalanche.state.co.us
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 26, 2008 - 07:22pm PT
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Wonderful job you folks did getting that opened up.
One of these days, I'm gonna do it.
Thanks!!!!
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rockermike
Mountain climber
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Nov 26, 2008 - 09:08pm PT
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I started up that baby once back in the '70's. A 60 cm Chouinard piolet in one hand and a Forrest Mjolnar hammer in the other. Didn't get far, bailed before finishing the first pitch. ha
But I recently got back into ice climbing and Bridalveil is definitely on my tic list. Got to settle old scores. What with the new tools I might actually have a chance at it. But then again I'm not quite a WI5 leader yet. How hard is that thing anyway.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 26, 2008 - 10:19pm PT
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It might be WI4... or NEI5+, depending.
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rockermike
Mountain climber
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Nov 28, 2008 - 03:45pm PT
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What is NEI 5+? I am only familiar with the WI 1-6 scale. Tried googling for NEI system or conversion chart and couldn't fine anything.??
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jbar
Ice climber
(home description... adjective, adjective, sensor
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Nov 28, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
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Thats fancy for New England. I've never seen the route but the NEI ratings only go to a 5+ and everyone I have ever heard of climbing Bridalveil has said it is a WI6.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 29, 2008 - 02:07am PT
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"Thats fancy for New England. I've never seen the route but the NEI ratings only go to a 5+ and everyone I have ever heard of climbing Bridalveil has said it is a WI6."
Oh, just some latent regionalism rearing its ugly (and now geographically irrelevant) head. The NEI scale is used in New England.
Having climbed Bridalveil numerous times during my residence in Telluride, I can say confidently that its grade may vary between WI4 and WI6~+. Its difficulty should be somewhat obvious when standing beneath.
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jbar
Ice climber
(home description... adjective, adjective, sensor
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Nov 29, 2008 - 04:09am PT
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One of the great reasons for climbing ice and failings of technical ice ratings. Ice routes change. This seems especially true of the places I've climbed over the past few years. I climbed a route last year that was a kind of an urban legend because nobody had ever seen it in. On the other hand I went hunting for ice up at longs and meeker this month and hardly found enough to stick a pick in.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Nov 29, 2008 - 11:29am PT
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Once again the Access Fund did NOT come through for ice climbers.
Thanks to all the other organizations that care and helped make this possible. And to Steve Johnson.
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Mtnfreak
Mountain climber
Epicenter of North California
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"This agreement was reached through negotiations between The Trust for Public Land and the Idarado Mining Company, with support and advocacy from Colorado's San Miguel County, the Telluride Mountain Club and the Access Fund."
The Access Fund may not have lead the charge, but they were involved. Easy there, Bldrjac.
Can't wait for the road trip!
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manassfrass
climber
Carbondale, CO
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Does anyone have any memorable illegal ascents or attempted ascents (or know of someone who does) they'd want to share?
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