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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 18, 2008 - 04:55am PT
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In August, the American climber Dean Potter made a "BASE solo" (or FreeBASE) of Deep Blue Sea (7b+, 300m, Rathmaier-Ruhstaller, 2001) on the west side of the north face of The Eiger, Switzerland, (UKC News Report: Aug 10).
The question asked by many climbers was when would somebody make a BASE solo of a big wall, particularly in Yosemite, perhaps of The Nose or the Salathé Wall?
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45452
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dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
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Nov 18, 2008 - 06:02am PT
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Soloing of the Alien is impressive shoot or no shoot.
Way to go Dean!
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 18, 2008 - 08:16am PT
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It would probably work fine on the Rostrum overhang. Not that I know much...
This is a weird legal area. He wears the rig, but doesn't want to use it. Doesn't even intend to. It is like a seat belt. Just for safety.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 18, 2008 - 09:19am PT
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Good job, Dean. Way to go indeed!
As if you're listening, I know... but I'm curious about aspects of FreeBASE. Saw the footage of the Eiger solo. Cool indeed. But... and here's the main question: it didn't look that steep. Nice and smooth, but merely vert, more or less. So in one shot you jumped. Not fell, but turned and pushed away from the wall and everything worked fine. The next time, climbed right through it and jumped later, from above the climb.
So my question is, actually falling. You'd have to orient yourself in the air as you gain flying speed. Once you're pointed away from the rock and up to speed, no problem. But getting there? I mean, you watch a cat turn itself in free fall. It's prety athletic. Not much chance to practice.
I know you must think this stuff out. Some of us watching are curious. BASE104 and I were housemates awhile; rigs were packed in the living room ('morning dude, you're up early...). Some pieces of your puzzle are quite real to us.
While it raised the question of actually falling, that footage answered another older question from some of us who've been tracking you. We've heard that you could pop off a slack line and catch yourself on the line, and there it was, illustrated. Gotta say that seeing it makes me feel better by helping me to understand.
If you'd care to expound on it, some of us are mighty curious...
Chris Mac?
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 18, 2008 - 10:07am PT
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Doug,
I've seen a few guys blow the exit and dump while on their back. Not the best of situations, certainly, but way better than nothing. It doesn't mean that you are toast for sure.
Over the years there have always been climbers that got into jumping, like yours truly. This might catch on here and there. Who knows? I don't think that what he is doing is a bad idea.
He knows what he is doing, so I don't second guess it.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 18, 2008 - 10:41am PT
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Yeah, he knows what he's doing all right. And I don't think it's a bad idea either. Just fascinating. And a bit...radical. So I get curious about how it works.
Curiosity, after all, is what gets the cat into the position of having to learn that spiral twist toward getting his landing gear down.
I liked watching you pack your rig, you know? Some of it comes down to technique.
Didn't know you could dump your canopy without facing the ground, so that helps.
Just a little info...
The sky's not the limit, the ground is.
You told me the story of a BASE jumper delivering the game ball from the roof of the Houston Astrodome. Two hundred feet and change, isn't it? Has anybody jumped from lower than that?
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dirhk
Trad climber
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Nov 18, 2008 - 11:01am PT
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Ha. He thinks thats the first solo...
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 18, 2008 - 11:05am PT
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Un-fricken' believable!
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 18, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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Pretty amazing tactics and pushing the envelope beyond the boundaries of the norm.
He has a powerful spirit ......
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Nov 18, 2008 - 12:29pm PT
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So what do you guys think? Should I wear a BASE rig on my planned solo of 'Hall of Mirrors'? Or maybe just take one of those red plastic snow sleds?
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 18, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
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How about motorcycle racing leathers with the teflon knees and elbows?
And did you ever notice how Hollywood stunt fallers put cardboard boxes under their crash pads...
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Nov 18, 2008 - 12:34pm PT
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maybe a plastic sled AND a chute....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 18, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
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sled, chute, AND a chain saw to cut down the trees at the bottom that you will run into.
terminal velocity sledding!! hahahaahha
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pedge
Trad climber
SW
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Nov 18, 2008 - 01:27pm PT
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Just curious: is this a manual operation or does he have a little rocket to fire out an initial shoot linked to an accelerometer?
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 18, 2008 - 01:31pm PT
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My buddies used to think that I was so nuts that they invented a new sport for me: Atmospheric Surfing.
The idea was to toss me out of a capsule with one of those round plastic sled thingies, but with a full heat shield on it. Then I would go for re-entry.
I bet someone does it some day......
Oh, pedge, it is full manual, you just toss your pilot chute out.
And Karl below. After you learn how to pack a parachute, you will realize that it is easier than making a bed. I used to pay a 12 year old girl to pack for me when skydiving. She did a great job.
And Werner, I don't know Dean, but he seems to have a great imagination. It takes something to say, "What if," and "Why not?" He is really doing something visionary.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 18, 2008 - 01:32pm PT
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I can't even fold my shirts neatly. No base jumping for me.
Dean has an amazing vision and Werner is right. a powerful spirit
peace
karl
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ec
climber
ca
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Nov 18, 2008 - 01:37pm PT
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Gunkie, just wear a sumo suit...you can just roll to the base.
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Nov 26, 2008 - 07:29pm PT
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Why not the Excellent Adventure? A cooler and harder line.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 26, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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The Nose is the trick, everyone knows that.
Big slab underneath is the sketch part.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 26, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
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yes, that was a glib comment.
Happy Turkey Day all,
M
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