Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 28, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
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We have a preliminary report that Kevin Jorgeson, the visiting American climber (See UKC News, Parthian Shot Ground-Up) has climbed The Promise, a short route at Burbage, graded E10 7a by the first ascentionist James Pearson.
On James Pearson's website he puts his ascent of The Promise in to context with: "[Aged] 21, Climbed my own E10 - The Promise, the hardest route on gritstone"
The Promise is around 8 metres high, with the hardest climbing at around 5 metres. The moves are exceptionally difficult and reachy and the landing isn't great, with a large boulder in the fall-zone. This is typical Jorgeson territory, and with his CV of hard, highball boulder problems, he made short work of this blunt gritstone arête, climbing it in a single session.
In his short report to UKClimbing.com, Kevin Jorgeson stated simply:
"Second ascent today. Did it in an hour on my first day and thought E8 was more appropriate.
More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=10&year=2008#n45410
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Oct 28, 2008 - 05:25pm PT
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This would make a much bigger splash across the pond here if we knew what the hell they were talking about. As it stands, talking about E-grades on the Taco is like an argument about Sanskrit grammar.
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andanother
climber
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Oct 28, 2008 - 08:15pm PT
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Agreed.
And what's a "metre"? Is that like a foot or yard?
Oh, did you mean "meter"?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Oct 28, 2008 - 08:18pm PT
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Was this one on pre-placed gear as well?
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Oct 28, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
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bump for another landmark for Kevin.. how about Mt Clark?
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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Oct 28, 2008 - 10:01pm PT
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There's video of Pearson's first ascent on the "Committed" dvd about gritstone climbing.
Did Jorgensen boulder the route? Did he rehearse it on TR?
I thought Rhapsody was considered the hardest Grit route at E11 . . .
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Bubba Ho-Tep
climber
Evergreen, CO
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Oct 28, 2008 - 10:11pm PT
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Hard climbing at either grade - no doubt.
But, I gotta ask - Since when do 25 foot problems get to be "routes" or is that a Brit thing?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 28, 2008 - 10:26pm PT
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"metre" is the way it's most often spelt - see your OED. A meter is an instrument for measuring, a metre may be the distance that is measured. Search me, but that's how it is.
I believe Rhapsody, near Dumbarton, is on rhyolite (volcanic rock), not grit. Most grit is in the Peak District, more or less central England.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 28, 2008 - 11:01pm PT
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Talk about slapping the Brits in the face....
Psshaw.. hardest gritstone climb... Not any more!
Good Job Jorgenson!
Go Big!!!
Thanks Mick for reporting the shame(?)
Mighty Edit - Thanks for the clarification Mighty... That changes the entire report.. for me at least!!
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2008 - 01:42am PT
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Yes The Promise is relatively short but hard, crucial runner is a slider.
Since Pearsons climbed the Promise he has also done The Groove E10/11 which is harder. Kevin is trying that today.
This is all huge news in the UK. Many UK climbers have a lot of emotional energy invested in these routes and those who climbed them.
It's a bit of an Emperor's New Clothes moment, similar to when a French climbers solo'ed Revelations a bolted Jerry Moffat 13c many moons ago
EDIT: Oct 28: The Promise - Kevin's account at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=10&year=2008#n45411
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Oct 29, 2008 - 01:46am PT
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Booya. Take that you damn Brits.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Oct 29, 2008 - 02:34am PT
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Hey, I got nothing against the brits, but hell yeah. Proud, Kevin! Thats proud.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Oct 29, 2008 - 07:31am PT
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If it was so easy, he should have down-climbed it after he topped out. That would have been convincing. Otherwise it is just spray.
An hour to climb 25 feet! That guy is quick.
Should hook him up with PTPP. Maybe they could do the first Nose in a Year.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Oct 29, 2008 - 09:04am PT
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Obviously those brits didn't learn their lesson the first time when we tossed all their tea in the ocean.
Take that!
And we wonder why the world hates us.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Oct 29, 2008 - 09:32am PT
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Wow. That's quite a downgrade.
Gonna stir the pot,that one is.
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Michael D
Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
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Oct 29, 2008 - 12:37pm PT
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so the Brit's can understand...
that'll do young Kevin, nicely done.
Cheers and pint for Kevin!!!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Oct 29, 2008 - 04:35pm PT
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Tradisgood, Spray? Since you must be at the cutting edge maybe you could go and show Kevin how to do it quicker.....and then down climb it. In reality, the hour that it took Kevin to climb those 3 meters without getting seriously injured or killed is an amazing feat. I don't know you but I'd be willing to bet that in your entire lifetime you'd be lucky to make it past the first move.
You should consider changing your user name to Tradisspray
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Oct 29, 2008 - 07:03pm PT
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Double Bravo for Kevin J and all who love the Grit.
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