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Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 24, 2008 - 03:34pm PT
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Oct 24: Kevin Jorgeson Grounds Up Parthian Shot E9 6c
by Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com
Kevin Jorgeson, 24, one of the USA's top climbers renowned for his highball bouldering and solos (he's also climbed sport 8b+) has ground-up'd Parthian Shot E9 6c at Burbage South, the gritstone testpiece set by John Dunne 18 years ago in 1989 and made infamous by the Seb Grieves filmed ascent in the iconic film Hard Grit.
more: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=326043
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 24, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
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Very proud send!
I want to see the photos taken by the guy in the upper right corner...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 24, 2008 - 03:45pm PT
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The kid is good. Seen the pic by Jer in the new Rock and Ice.
coastal crushing goodness!
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Oct 24, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
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Lightweight used cams and sticky rubber. What a noob!
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Oct 24, 2008 - 04:22pm PT
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This is what the boys across the pond might be thinkin:
"by - J Dunne on - 20:52 Fri
Again great effort but ground up must surely mean leaving the ground putting the kit in then climbing to the top.
Am i missing something?"
"In reply to J Dunne:
firstly the boy obviously has lots of skill !
but i don,t think you are missing anything !
it would seem we have a......................ground-up with falls ascent of an e9 with pre placed kit !"
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Oct 24, 2008 - 04:48pm PT
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how hard is this in the yds?
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Oct 24, 2008 - 04:51pm PT
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Keep an eye on this guy. He's only just getting warmed up. Should be an interesting autumn.
Nice send Kevin.
BTW, He'll be giving a slideshow in Santa Rosa on Jan. 6.
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
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Oct 24: Kevin Jorgeson - in his own words
by Kevin Jorgeson
Grit Update 3: Success!
24 October 2008
Today was day two going ground up on Parthian Shot. On my forth attempt of the day, something clicked and I stuck the move that has been shutting me down for about 12 attempts: an accuracy and timing dependent dead-point to a pocket....
More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2008 - 05:40pm PT
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13b/c R/X or near enough...
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Sascha
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Oct 31, 2008 - 07:13pm PT
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That's awesome - congratulations, Kevin!
And for the record, for those of you who don't know Jorgeson: he's an incredibly decent and modest guy, not to mention a generous and gifted teacher of climbers at every level, back at his home gym. I can't imagine him ever strutting around bragging about kicking anyone's ass... He simply loves the sport and loves to solve a challenging problem. All of us could take inspiration from Kevin, not just on technique but on attitude.
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ryankelly
Trad climber
calistoga, ca
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Awesome climbing Kevin!
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Proud!
I like that onsight stuff (ground up)....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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What's this have to do with Bachar/Robbins? The first Yank to kick ass in the UK was Henry Barber.
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